Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:37 AM - Re: Soundproofing (Russell Daves)
2. 02:57 AM - Re: Strobe power supply location (Russell Daves)
3. 04:24 AM - Re: Control Grip Wiring (rob kermanj)
4. 04:53 AM - Re: Control Grip Wiring (Jesse Saint)
5. 05:40 AM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (Bruce Case)
6. 06:17 AM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (Bill and Tami Britton)
7. 06:42 AM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (bob.kaufmann)
8. 07:01 AM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
9. 07:03 AM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (John Jessen)
10. 07:07 AM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (Rob Hunter)
11. 07:09 AM - Re: Strobe power supply location (Conti, Rick)
12. 07:11 AM - Re: Control Grip Wiring (Conti, Rick)
13. 07:25 AM - Re: Control Grip Wiring (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
14. 07:28 AM - Re: Soundproofing (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
15. 10:21 AM - Re: OP Integrated EFIS (Mark & Kelly)
16. 11:25 AM - Re: OP Integrated EFIS (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
17. 01:14 PM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (PJ Seipel)
18. 01:41 PM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (Bill and Tami Britton)
19. 01:42 PM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (Bill and Tami Britton)
20. 01:47 PM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (Bill and Tami Britton)
21. 02:16 PM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (Nikolaos Napoli)
22. 02:17 PM - Control stick (rob kermanj)
23. 02:21 PM - Re: Dimpling of Firewall Bottom Flange (Nikolaos Napoli)
24. 02:29 PM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (Rick)
25. 02:38 PM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (Deems Davis)
26. 02:56 PM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (Rick)
27. 03:09 PM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (Sean Stephens)
28. 03:25 PM - Re: Control stick (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
29. 04:00 PM - Panel planing (Sam Marlow)
30. 04:35 PM - Re: Panel planing (Tim Olson)
31. 04:41 PM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (Dj Merrill)
32. 05:21 PM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (Chris Johnston)
33. 06:33 PM - POH (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
34. 07:21 PM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (Robert G. Wright)
35. 07:39 PM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (Tim Olson)
36. 07:52 PM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (Dj Merrill)
37. 08:11 PM - 2005 List of Contributors (Update)... (Matt Dralle)
38. 08:13 PM - Re: Cogsdill burraway questions (Paul Walter)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Soundproofing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
Bob:
The insulation on the floor of the tunnel is 3/8" thermal blanket foil from
the Super Soundproofing Company,
http://www.soundproofing.org/sales/prices.html
that costs $3.75 per running foot, 48" wide. It is ideal for the center
console because it is thin. I used 1/2" soundproofing mat for the floor and
side walls but the 1/2" mat would be too thick to go under the elevator
control arms in the center channel.
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Russ,
>
> What was your source for the insulation on the floor of the tunnel?
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
> Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 5:20 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
>
> Sorry, I hit the send button before attachment on the last e-mail.
>
> Russ
>
>>I have attached a picture of the duel rudder cable guides I installed
> fore
>>and aft of the fuel selector to insure that the rudder cable doesn't
> rub on
>>the fuel lines or connectors. Scott McDaniel supplied the extra
> plastic
>>guides, screws, and nuts free when I called Van's and raised the
> issue.
>>
>> Russ Daves
>> #40044 Fuselage on gear
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Bill" <n2faith2@cs.com>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 10:05 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
>>
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill" <n2faith2@cs.com>
>>>
>>> I ran into a challenge when installing the fuel pump, filter,
> selector
>>> valve
>>> and lines and would appreciate any help.
>>> The QB forward fuselage has 2 eyelets located adjacent to the fuel
>>> selector
>>> valve (one on each side). These are apparently in lieu of the 4
> nylon
>>> guide
>>> strips shown on page 38-10 figure 4. After attaching the fuel lines
> to
>>> the
>>> selector valve it became apparent I couldn't use the 45 degree
> fittings
>>> called for. The fuel lines ended up directly aft of the rudder cable
>
>>> guides
>>> (eyelets) and there would have been an obvious chafing problem. I
>>> changed
>>> the fittings to 90 degree and the chafing problem still exists but is
>>> minimal. (I'm not sure "minimal" is appropriate with fuel line
> chafing)
>>> Has anyone else experienced this and, if so, what was your remedy?
> I've
>>> thought about drilling out and removing the eyelets and making some
> other
>>> cable guides and/or rerouting the fuel lines.
>>> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> Bill Stegemann
>>> RV6 - sold
>>> RV10 wings/fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Strobe power supply location |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
Eric:
I am using the Aero Flash Strobe System. Three separate power supplies,
number 152-0007, one mounted at each wingtip and one mounted behind the
baggage compartment for the tail strobe. I bought the combo white light
tail strobe from Van's, and am using LED red and green nav lights with low
profile strobes
http://www.creativair.com/cva/product_info.php?products_id=69&osCsid=75488e6a7880f47e3c0a7cc743b3c0a3
Russ Daves
#40044 Fuselage on gear
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Panning" <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Strobe power supply location
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
>
> Some questions:
> Where have people mounted their strobe power supply?
> what type of electrical connectors have you installed
> at the wing root, or are you passing the full wire
> length to the panel?
>
> I am working on wing wiring.
> Right wing: AOA sport, Duckworks 100 W, Strobe,
> position lights, NAV coax
> Left wing: Trio Avionics trim servo, Pitot Heat
> (Gretz), Duckworks HID, strobe, position lights
> Fuselage: Remote mag, strobe, position, VOR/GS, static
> lines
>
> I was going to go with Dynon but continued lack of
> heated pitot, and reliance on airspeed for proper
> attitude display turned me off. Unless my stock
> portfolio takes a dramatic turn for the better I'm
> going to use a dual display GRT system tied to a 430.
> If it takes a turn for the worst, I'll proseal down a
> glass of whisky and refresh on NORDO... Chelton is
> very nice but expensive - it's also currently grounded
> for IFR (problems with crossbow giving bad attitude
> data). http://www.direct2avionics.com/news.html
>
> I am planning on the Trio avionics AP, electric TC,
> airspeed, alt for backup.
>
> Eric Panning
> 40150 wing wiring, + staring at stack of fuselage
> parts and manual.
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Control Grip Wiring |
--> RV10-List message posted by: rob kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
I will include a pic today.
Rob.
On Dec 5, 2005, at 4:09 PM, Conti, Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>
> A picture would be great. Thanks
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> office: 703-414-6141
> cell: 571-215-6134
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rob kermanj [mailto:rv10es@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 2:47 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Grip Wiring
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: rob kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
>
> I drilled a hole on the vertical shaft and into the half-moon part of
> the stick. I then routed the wires through the hole and into the
> stick and pushed them up the vertical portion of the stick. I have a
> hole facing me as I fly in the vertical part of the stick that has no
> purpose. This is the only way I could think of to conceal the
> wires. Can send you a pic if you are further interested.
>
> Rob.
>
> On Dec 5, 2005, at 1:39 PM, Conti, Rick wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick"
>> <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>>
>> For those who have installed their control grips. How (where) did
>> you
>> run the wiring? Looks like I may have to run the wires (5 button
>> grip)
>> on the outside of the control stick.
>>
>> Thank You
>> Rick Conti
>> Senior Engineering Manager
>> The Boeing Company
>> office: 703 - 414 - 6141
>> blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Control Grip Wiring |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Yes, we did cut the stick down so the top of the grip is about where the top
of the stick was without the grip. That's an awesome control grip. Such a
great feel and so much functionality without having to move your hands.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Grip Wiring
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Did you shorten your stick at all for use with the infinity so it
doesn't hit the panel?
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Engine Hookups
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Jesse Saint wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> We ran our wire on the outside of the control stick, because we used an
> Infinity Aerospace grip with all of those buttons. On the right side we
> used a simple one-button ray allen and drilled a hole to allow us to fish
> the wire down inside the control stick (and protected it with a couple
heat
> shrink layers where it passes through the hole).
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
> please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
> please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it
has
> voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
> Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 1:39 PM
> To: RV 10
> Subject: RV10-List: Control Grip Wiring
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>
> For those who have installed their control grips. How (where) did you
> run the wiring? Looks like I may have to run the wires (5 button grip)
> on the outside of the control stick.
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> Senior Engineering Manager
> The Boeing Company
> office: 703 - 414 - 6141
> blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
Bill,
Removing sharp edges including inside the bore of the hole is an important part
of removing potential stress raisers. Also if you are hitting the skin with
a scotchbrite wheel you are potentially and probably removing the Alclad surface
in that area. I found that the simple hand spinning deburring tool from Avery
works fine and is reasonably fast. Avery used to sell the Cogsdill tool but
abandoned because it was too finicky. Proper deburring should just remove
the burr and leave a minute almost hard to perceive countersink.
Bruce Case
RV-10 rudder/ A&P student
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 12:10 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
I've been using my new Cogsdill deburrers and am having less than acceptable
results with the #40. I've adjusted it several times (spring tension) and still
get mixed results. So, what I did on the last skin that I deburred tonight
is use the small scotchbrite wheel in a die-grinder and smooth the hole first.
Much better results with almost no burrs left, where I was having to do most
of the holes before this twice to get results even close to this (and more than
once enlarging the hole more than I prefer). My question is this: After running
the scotchbrite wheel over the hole smoothing out the burrs is it necessary
to go ahead and use the cogsdill deburrer??? The hole feels smooth with
no burrs but I'm not sure if the wheel will just lay some of the burrs over (into
the hole) or if it actually removes what it hit There are no visible burrs
left after the wheel. so if any they would be microscopic!!!
The side that is punched at the factory is quite a bit smoother than the other
side so it's the rougher side that I'm using the wheel on. Anybody else doing
this, or having similar problems with the cogsdill deburrers, or am I just
being too picky about the deburring???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
Thanks for the reply. Yes, it does remove the alclad (or atleast part of it, but
I am priming them anyway so they will be scuffed up anyway. I have other deburring
tools, just thought I would try the cogsdills that everybody was talking
about. I may have a like new pair of them for sale before long, though!!!
Thanks,
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Case
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 7:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
Bill,
Removing sharp edges including inside the bore of the hole is an important part
of removing potential stress raisers. Also if you are hitting the skin with
a scotchbrite wheel you are potentially and probably removing the Alclad surface
in that area. I found that the simple hand spinning deburring tool from
Avery works fine and is reasonably fast. Avery used to sell the Cogsdill tool
but abandoned because it was too finicky. Proper deburring should just remove
the burr and leave a minute almost hard to perceive countersink.
Bruce Case
RV-10 rudder/ A&P student
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 12:10 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
I've been using my new Cogsdill deburrers and am having less than acceptable
results with the #40. I've adjusted it several times (spring tension) and still
get mixed results. So, what I did on the last skin that I deburred tonight
is use the small scotchbrite wheel in a die-grinder and smooth the hole first.
Much better results with almost no burrs left, where I was having to do most
of the holes before this twice to get results even close to this (and more
than once enlarging the hole more than I prefer). My question is this: After
running the scotchbrite wheel over the hole smoothing out the burrs is it necessary
to go ahead and use the cogsdill deburrer??? The hole feels smooth with
no burrs but I'm not sure if the wheel will just lay some of the burrs over
(into the hole) or if it actually removes what it hit There are no visible burrs
left after the wheel. so if any they would be microscopic!!!
The side that is punched at the factory is quite a bit smoother than the other
side so it's the rougher side that I'm using the wheel on. Anybody else doing
this, or having similar problems with the cogsdill deburrers, or am I just
being too picky about the deburring???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
Message 7
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| Subject: | Cogsdill burraway questions |
It was a pain in the buttocks getting the 40 set but now I like it a lot.
The 30 you would have to pry from my cold dead fingers. I use them all the
time and it is a huge time saver.
Bob K
Fuselage side skins, right side.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Cogsdill burraway questions |
Bill, the short answer is just make sure you can run your finger across without
catching (or slicing for that matter) and you are good to go. If a scotchbrite
pass does that, then don't worry about additional deburring and just build
the plane. :-)
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage arrives in 2 days
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
Thanks for the reply. Yes, it does remove the alclad (or atleast part of it, but
I am priming them anyway so they will be scuffed up anyway. I have other deburring
tools, just thought I would try the cogsdills that everybody was talking
about. I may have a like new pair of them for sale before long, though!!!
Thanks,
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Case <mailto:pioneer@choiceonemail.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 7:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
Bill,
Removing sharp edges including inside the bore of the hole is an important
part of removing potential stress raisers. Also if you are hitting the skin
with a scotchbrite wheel you are potentially and probably removing the Alclad
surface in that area. I found that the simple hand spinning deburring tool
from Avery works fine and is reasonably fast. Avery used to sell the Cogsdill
tool but abandoned because it was too finicky. Proper deburring should just
remove the burr and leave a minute almost hard to perceive countersink.
Bruce Case
RV-10 rudder/ A&P student
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton <mailto:william@gbta.net>
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 12:10 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
I've been using my new Cogsdill deburrers and am having less than
acceptable results with the #40. I've adjusted it several times (spring tension)
and still get mixed results. So, what I did on the last skin that I deburred
tonight is use the small scotchbrite wheel in a die-grinder and smooth
the hole first. Much better results with almost no burrs left, where I was having
to do most of the holes before this twice to get results even close to this
(and more than once enlarging the hole more than I prefer). My question is
this: After running the scotchbrite wheel over the hole smoothing out the burrs
is it necessary to go ahead and use the cogsdill deburrer??? The hole feels
smooth with no burrs but I'm not sure if the wheel will just lay some of the
burrs over (into the hole) or if it actually removes what it hit There are no
visible burrs left after the wheel. so if any they would be microscopic!!!
The side that is punched at the factory is quite a bit smoother
than the other side so it's the rougher side that I'm using the wheel on. Anybody
else doing this, or having similar problems with the cogsdill deburrers,
or am I just being too picky about the deburring???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
Message 9
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| Subject: | Cogsdill burraway questions |
Bill,
Bruce gives good advice. I love the Cogsdill. However, it did take me
almost the entire Rudder to get it to work correctly. There are two, maybe
three obvious variables. 1. rotational speed 2. speed at which you move
the tool into and out of the hole 3. spring tension on the blade. I found
that if I lowered my PSI on my air drill to around 25 pounds, it seems to be
the right speed for the speed at which I move the blade into and out of the
hole. The number of rotations apparently is just about right. I think it
matches my manual deburring the closest. (Manual deburring, with one of
Avery's or other's tool, probably is the best, and I would recommend it over
using scotch brite. However, be careful there as well. You can use that
same tool to machine countersink and it can happen fast! One or one and a
half rotations only.) The blade tensioning is again related to the first
two variables. However, try to set it on the light side of medium tension
and it won't hurt the material that much.
Another way of approaching this is to use a reamer instead of the drill bit.
When I switched over to reamers, deburring was far easier and faster. Maybe
Bruce can, as an A&P student, comment on the differences, but it's clear
that the reamer cleans up the hole much nicer than the aggressively cutting
drill. Even if you pre-assemble the parts with clecos, reaming the holes to
size is great. Some are not even pre-assembling.
Finally, I've suggested to Bob Avery that he reconsider the Cogsdill. It's
a great tool and I've had very little problems with breakage. Also,
deburring is often over done, and that's per Van's. So proper use of the
Cogsdill should get you an acceptable result.
John Jessen
~328 (buildus interruptus continues)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Case
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
Bill,
Removing sharp edges including inside the bore of the hole is an important
part of removing potential stress raisers. Also if you are hitting the skin
with a scotchbrite wheel you are potentially and probably removing the
Alclad surface in that area. I found that the simple hand spinning
deburring tool from Avery works fine and is reasonably fast. Avery used to
sell the Cogsdill tool but abandoned because it was too finicky. Proper
deburring should just remove the burr and leave a minute almost hard to
perceive countersink.
Bruce Case
RV-10 rudder/ A&P student
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami <mailto:william@gbta.net> Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
I've been using my new Cogsdill deburrers and am having less than acceptable
results with the #40. I've adjusted it several times (spring tension) and
still get mixed results. So, what I did on the last skin that I deburred
tonight is use the small scotchbrite wheel in a die-grinder and smooth the
hole first. Much better results with almost no burrs left, where I was
having to do most of the holes before this twice to get results even close
to this (and more than once enlarging the hole more than I prefer). My
question is this: After running the scotchbrite wheel over the hole
smoothing out the burrs is it necessary to go ahead and use the cogsdill
deburrer??? The hole feels smooth with no burrs but I'm not sure if the
wheel will just lay some of the burrs over (into the hole) or if it actually
removes what it hit There are no visible burrs left after the wheel. so if
any they would be microscopic!!!
The side that is punched at the factory is quite a bit smoother than the
other side so it's the rougher side that I'm using the wheel on. Anybody
else doing this, or having similar problems with the cogsdill deburrers, or
am I just being too picky about the deburring???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
Message 10
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| Subject: | Cogsdill burraway questions |
Bill,
I bought the Cogsdill and had the same results. I went back to the
Cleveland deburing tool set in an electric screwdriver. Works great.
Rob
H/S 40432
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
Thanks for the reply. Yes, it does remove the alclad (or atleast part
of it, but I am priming them anyway so they will be scuffed up anyway.
I have other deburring tools, just thought I would try the cogsdills
that everybody was talking about. I may have a like new pair of them
for sale before long, though!!!
Thanks,
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Case <mailto:pioneer@choiceonemail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
Bill,
Removing sharp edges including inside the bore of the hole is an
important part of removing potential stress raisers. Also if you are
hitting the skin with a scotchbrite wheel you are potentially and
probably removing the Alclad surface in that area. I found that the
simple hand spinning deburring tool from Avery works fine and is
reasonably fast. Avery used to sell the Cogsdill tool but abandoned
because it was too finicky. Proper deburring should just remove the
burr and leave a minute almost hard to perceive countersink.
Bruce Case
RV-10 rudder/ A&P student
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami <mailto:william@gbta.net> Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
I've been using my new Cogsdill deburrers and am having less than
acceptable results with the #40. I've adjusted it several times (spring
tension) and still get mixed results. So, what I did on the last skin
that I deburred tonight is use the small scotchbrite wheel in a
die-grinder and smooth the hole first. Much better results with almost
no burrs left, where I was having to do most of the holes before this
twice to get results even close to this (and more than once enlarging
the hole more than I prefer). My question is this: After running the
scotchbrite wheel over the hole smoothing out the burrs is it necessary
to go ahead and use the cogsdill deburrer??? The hole feels smooth with
no burrs but I'm not sure if the wheel will just lay some of the burrs
over (into the hole) or if it actually removes what it hit There are no
visible burrs left after the wheel. so if any they would be
microscopic!!!
The side that is punched at the factory is quite a bit smoother than the
other side so it's the rougher side that I'm using the wheel on.
Anybody else doing this, or having similar problems with the cogsdill
deburrers, or am I just being too picky about the deburring???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
Message 11
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| Subject: | Strobe power supply location |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
I will be mounting my power supply in the right side wall next to the
rear passenger's right leg. It fits nicely behind the cover. The
wiring from the left wing will run beneath the flap actuator assembly
covers. I also do not plan on cutting the wirings from the left wing.
This will ensure a continuous shield all the way to the power supply.
If in the future I have to remove the left wing, I will install a
connector at that time.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Panning [mailto:ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com]
Subject: RV10-List: Strobe power supply location
--> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning
<ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
Some questions:
Where have people mounted their strobe power supply?
what type of electrical connectors have you installed
at the wing root, or are you passing the full wire
length to the panel?
I am working on wing wiring.
Right wing: AOA sport, Duckworks 100 W, Strobe,
position lights, NAV coax
Left wing: Trio Avionics trim servo, Pitot Heat
(Gretz), Duckworks HID, strobe, position lights
Fuselage: Remote mag, strobe, position, VOR/GS, static
lines
I was going to go with Dynon but continued lack of
heated pitot, and reliance on airspeed for proper
attitude display turned me off. Unless my stock
portfolio takes a dramatic turn for the better I'm
going to use a dual display GRT system tied to a 430.
If it takes a turn for the worst, I'll proseal down a
glass of whisky and refresh on NORDO... Chelton is
very nice but expensive - it's also currently grounded
for IFR (problems with crossbow giving bad attitude
data). http://www.direct2avionics.com/news.html
I am planning on the Trio avionics AP, electric TC,
airspeed, alt for backup.
Eric Panning
40150 wing wiring, + staring at stack of fuselage
parts and manual.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Control Grip Wiring |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
I have the same grip. I did cut the control stick to about 2" above the
curve. I think my wire run will be the same as yours. Thanks.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Russell Daves [mailto:dav1111@cox.net]
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Grip Wiring
Rick:
I bought the CH Control Stick grip (picture attached) and then drilled
out a
1/4" hole at the bottom of the straight part of the control stick where
it
goes around the curve and then drilled a 1/4" hole in the front part of
the
stick about half way down. I then had the control stick powder coated
black
and install the CH grip ;and threaded the wires down and around the
curved
part of the control stick and exited down low (picture attached). I put
a
small snap bushing in the hole coming out of the control stick where the
wires exited. After I get the wires spliced in I will put a shrink wrap
on
them and bring them back down the control stick to the base and then up
and
around to the panel and trim connections.
Russ Daves
#40044
----- Original Message -----
From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Control Grip Wiring
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>
> For those who have installed their control grips. How (where) did you
> run the wiring? Looks like I may have to run the wires (5 button
grip)
> on the outside of the control stick.
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> Senior Engineering Manager
> The Boeing Company
> office: 703 - 414 - 6141
> blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Control Grip Wiring |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
How long is the included cables? Is it long enough to come out the
bottom of the stick or did you have to add? How much? I am talking with
them and would like to get the cable extended if I need to.
Dan
40269
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Grip Wiring
Rick:
I bought the CH Control Stick grip (picture attached) and then drilled
out a
1/4" hole at the bottom of the straight part of the control stick where
it
goes around the curve and then drilled a 1/4" hole in the front part of
the
stick about half way down. I then had the control stick powder coated
black
and install the CH grip ;and threaded the wires down and around the
curved
part of the control stick and exited down low (picture attached). I put
a
small snap bushing in the hole coming out of the control stick where the
wires exited. After I get the wires spliced in I will put a shrink wrap
on
them and bring them back down the control stick to the base and then up
and
around to the panel and trim connections.
Russ Daves
#40044
----- Original Message -----
From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Control Grip Wiring
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>
> For those who have installed their control grips. How (where) did you
> run the wiring? Looks like I may have to run the wires (5 button
grip)
> on the outside of the control stick.
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> Senior Engineering Manager
> The Boeing Company
> office: 703 - 414 - 6141
> blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
>
>
>
Message 14
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Thanks!
Bob
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Soundproofing
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
Bob:
The insulation on the floor of the tunnel is 3/8" thermal blanket foil
from
the Super Soundproofing Company,
http://www.soundproofing.org/sales/prices.html
that costs $3.75 per running foot, 48" wide. It is ideal for the center
console because it is thin. I used 1/2" soundproofing mat for the floor
and
side walls but the 1/2" mat would be too thick to go under the elevator
control arms in the center channel.
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Russ,
>
> What was your source for the insulation on the floor of the tunnel?
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell
Daves
> Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 5:20 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
>
> Sorry, I hit the send button before attachment on the last e-mail.
>
> Russ
>
>>I have attached a picture of the duel rudder cable guides I installed
> fore
>>and aft of the fuel selector to insure that the rudder cable doesn't
> rub on
>>the fuel lines or connectors. Scott McDaniel supplied the extra
> plastic
>>guides, screws, and nuts free when I called Van's and raised the
> issue.
>>
>> Russ Daves
>> #40044 Fuselage on gear
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Bill" <n2faith2@cs.com>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 10:05 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
>>
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill" <n2faith2@cs.com>
>>>
>>> I ran into a challenge when installing the fuel pump, filter,
> selector
>>> valve
>>> and lines and would appreciate any help.
>>> The QB forward fuselage has 2 eyelets located adjacent to the fuel
>>> selector
>>> valve (one on each side). These are apparently in lieu of the 4
> nylon
>>> guide
>>> strips shown on page 38-10 figure 4. After attaching the fuel lines
> to
>>> the
>>> selector valve it became apparent I couldn't use the 45 degree
> fittings
>>> called for. The fuel lines ended up directly aft of the rudder
cable
>
>>> guides
>>> (eyelets) and there would have been an obvious chafing problem. I
>>> changed
>>> the fittings to 90 degree and the chafing problem still exists but
is
>>> minimal. (I'm not sure "minimal" is appropriate with fuel line
> chafing)
>>> Has anyone else experienced this and, if so, what was your remedy?
> I've
>>> thought about drilling out and removing the eyelets and making some
> other
>>> cable guides and/or rerouting the fuel lines.
>>> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> Bill Stegemann
>>> RV6 - sold
>>> RV10 wings/fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: OP Integrated EFIS |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark & Kelly" <eyedocs1@swbell.net>
CJ,
I've looked into these as well and saw them at OSH. They really are quite
impressive and the display update rate with roll & pitch is extremely fast
considering the complexity of the terrain/runway presentations on the PFD.
I too have reservations about using the "integrated" version because of
radio control issuses if you lose the screens. Also, I don't beleive their
transponder has the capability of TIS such as the Garmin.
I will either go with a dual OP system without the integrated radios or the
Cheltons. Still trying to decide, but I don't think you can go wrong with
either option! Does anyone know how stable OP Technologies is as a company?
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OP Integrated EFIS
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
> Hey all -
> Has anyone looked into OPTechnologies EFIS systems?
> http://www.optechnologies.com I was checking out the OP Integrated
> system, and it looks pretty cool. Pricey, sure, but it seems a pretty
> complete system, and eliminates (sort of) the need for a radio stack.
> All the avionics (comms, navs, xponder, etc) are remote modules that can
> be mounted behind the panel or elsewhere, and controlled by the main
> head unit. Either 8.4" or 10.4" displays, video input to a MFD, etc.
> by the time you put a dual screen chelton, 480, xponder, etc, you're
> about at the same price... has anyone seen this in person?
>
>
> Cj
> #40410
> wings
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | OP Integrated EFIS |
Don't forget, the FAA is starting to decommission Mode S. If you don't live near
the east cost or where they currently have coverage there probably isn't benefit.
Also, make sure that your location isn't one of the current Mode S sites
to get a new ASR as that also means no Mode S once replaced. Better off waiting
for ADS-B or whatever the next datalink is if you don't fly in congested
airspace with S coverage now.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark & Kelly
Subject: Re: RV10-List: OP Integrated EFIS
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark & Kelly" <eyedocs1@swbell.net>
CJ,
I've looked into these as well and saw them at OSH. They really are quite impressive
and the display update rate with roll & pitch is extremely fast considering
the complexity of the terrain/runway presentations on the PFD.
I too have reservations about using the "integrated" version because of radio control
issuses if you lose the screens. Also, I don't beleive their transponder
has the capability of TIS such as the Garmin.
I will either go with a dual OP system without the integrated radios or the Cheltons.
Still trying to decide, but I don't think you can go wrong with either
option! Does anyone know how stable OP Technologies is as a company?
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OP Integrated EFIS
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
> Hey all -
> Has anyone looked into OPTechnologies EFIS systems?
> http://www.optechnologies.com I was checking out the OP Integrated
> system, and it looks pretty cool. Pricey, sure, but it seems a pretty
> complete system, and eliminates (sort of) the need for a radio stack.
> All the avionics (comms, navs, xponder, etc) are remote modules that can
> be mounted behind the panel or elsewhere, and controlled by the main
> head unit. Either 8.4" or 10.4" displays, video input to a MFD, etc.
> by the time you put a dual screen chelton, 480, xponder, etc, you're
> about at the same price... has anyone seen this in person?
>
>
> Cj
> #40410
> wings
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
I've had trouble adjusting my #40 Cogsdill. On the forward pass, it
removes almost no material, and on the backward pass it darn near
countersinks the hole. My #30 works beautifully. At first I thought
they had sent the wrong blade, but I double checked and it is correct.
Any ideas?
PJ
40032
Message 18
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spamd3.ruraltel.net
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
Thanks to all so far for the advice. I've thought about the reamers before but
that's about all the further that idea made it. What do I need to order to use
these. Do they just mount in the drill like the drill bit. Another question,
since deburring seems to enlarge the holes could you actually use reamers
smaller than the #30 and #40 and deburr??? Finally, I have the air pressure down
to about 25-30 PSI for the cogsdill. It does a decent job but when you drag
your finger across the hole after deburring you can still feel jus a little
"scratch" on your finger. Run the cogsdill through again and it nearly removes
too much. I think it's just one of those things that I'm going to have to
work with more!!!
Now, as for the scotch-brite, if the concensus is that no further deburring is
necessary then I'll just start doing that on as much of the holes as possible.
This is by far the easiest and cleanest way of deburring that I've found. Like
was stated before, I'll be removing the alclad but I'm priming all the inside
anyway!!!
Keep the suggestions coming, and thanks!!!
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: John Jessen
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 9:02 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
Bill,
Bruce gives good advice. I love the Cogsdill. However, it did take me almost
the entire Rudder to get it to work correctly. There are two, maybe three obvious
variables. 1. rotational speed 2. speed at which you move the tool into
and out of the hole 3. spring tension on the blade. I found that if I lowered
my PSI on my air drill to around 25 pounds, it seems to be the right speed
for the speed at which I move the blade into and out of the hole. The number
of rotations apparently is just about right. I think it matches my manual
deburring the closest. (Manual deburring, with one of Avery's or other's tool,
probably is the best, and I would recommend it over using scotch brite. However,
be careful there as well. You can use that same tool to machine countersink
and it can happen fast! One or one and a half rotations only.) The blade
tensioning is again related to the first two variables. However, try to set
it on the light side of medium tension and it won't hurt the material that much.
Another way of approaching this is to use a reamer instead of the drill bit.
When I switched over to reamers, deburring was far easier and faster. Maybe
Bruce can, as an A&P student, comment on the differences, but it's clear that
the reamer cleans up the hole much nicer than the aggressively cutting drill.
Even if you pre-assemble the parts with clecos, reaming the holes to size is
great. Some are not even pre-assembling.
Finally, I've suggested to Bob Avery that he reconsider the Cogsdill. It's a
great tool and I've had very little problems with breakage. Also, deburring
is often over done, and that's per Van's. So proper use of the Cogsdill should
get you an acceptable result.
John Jessen
~328 (buildus interruptus continues)
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Case
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 8:40 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
Bill,
Removing sharp edges including inside the bore of the hole is an important part
of removing potential stress raisers. Also if you are hitting the skin with
a scotchbrite wheel you are potentially and probably removing the Alclad surface
in that area. I found that the simple hand spinning deburring tool from
Avery works fine and is reasonably fast. Avery used to sell the Cogsdill tool
but abandoned because it was too finicky. Proper deburring should just remove
the burr and leave a minute almost hard to perceive countersink.
Bruce Case
RV-10 rudder/ A&P student
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 12:10 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
I've been using my new Cogsdill deburrers and am having less than acceptable
results with the #40. I've adjusted it several times (spring tension) and still
get mixed results. So, what I did on the last skin that I deburred tonight
is use the small scotchbrite wheel in a die-grinder and smooth the hole first.
Much better results with almost no burrs left, where I was having to do most
of the holes before this twice to get results even close to this (and more
than once enlarging the hole more than I prefer). My question is this: After
running the scotchbrite wheel over the hole smoothing out the burrs is it necessary
to go ahead and use the cogsdill deburrer??? The hole feels smooth with
no burrs but I'm not sure if the wheel will just lay some of the burrs over
(into the hole) or if it actually removes what it hit There are no visible burrs
left after the wheel. so if any they would be microscopic!!!
The side that is punched at the factory is quite a bit smoother than the other
side so it's the rougher side that I'm using the wheel on. Anybody else doing
this, or having similar problems with the cogsdill deburrers, or am I just
being too picky about the deburring???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
Message 19
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spamd1.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_8 Message came from 65.167.220-223.x network
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
I agree completely. The 30 is awesome, but the smaller 40 is pretty tempermental!!!
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
----- Original Message -----
From: bob.kaufmann
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 8:40 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
It was a pain in the buttocks getting the 40 set but now I like it a lot. The
30 you would have to pry from my cold dead fingers. I use them all the time
and it is a huge time saver.
Bob K
Fuselage side skins, right side.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
PJ, mine is exactly the opposite. Removes way too much on the through pass
and not nearly enough on the back pass. I've been able to remedy this
slightly by decreasing air pressure and slowing the drill down and by easing
up the force applied to the drill by me, but it still removes too much. I'm
wondering if maybe I shouldn't just get rid of the #40 and keep the #30. As
I stated before, the #30 is great!!!
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: "PJ Seipel" <seipel@seznam.cz>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
> --> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
>
> I've had trouble adjusting my #40 Cogsdill. On the forward pass, it
> removes almost no material, and on the backward pass it darn near
> countersinks the hole. My #30 works beautifully. At first I thought they
> had sent the wrong blade, but I double checked and it is correct. Any
> ideas?
>
> PJ
> 40032
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
I an not using them as I have not been very impressed with them. I also don't
like the idea of the blade going inside the hole. They are faster but the quality
I am getting is not as good as a standard deburring tool. Maybe they need
to be adjusted better.
If someone is interested I am selling mine for half my cost.
Niko
40188
PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel
I've had trouble adjusting my #40 Cogsdill. On the forward pass, it
removes almost no material, and on the backward pass it darn near
countersinks the hole. My #30 works beautifully. At first I thought
they had sent the wrong blade, but I double checked and it is correct.
Any ideas?
PJ
40032
Message 22
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Tim and Rick, here is the picture of the control stick. You might
see the snap bushing used where the wires penetrate the bow shaped
part of the control stick. The hole on the vertical part serves only
as access hole. This is the best I could do, I hope it helps.
Rob
_IGP0242.JPG
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Dimpling of Firewall Bottom Flange |
Thanks for the info Anh. I allready dimpled it last night but didn't attach the
skin because I had mistakently riveted two of the skin stiffeners incorrectly.
The left and right hand one were reversed. By the time I drilled out the
rivets and re-riveted the stiffeners in the correct location it was too late to
do anything else. Maybe that was a good thing as now I can easily flatten out
the one dimple.
Niko
DejaVu <wvu@ameritel.net> wrote:
Niko,
One hole at the exact center does not get dimpled or riveted. This is where
you will use a screw/nut to hold the bottom cowl support bracket later.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: Nikolaos Napoli
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 3:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling of Firewall Bottom Flange
I am about to rivet the Fwd Fuselage bottom skin to the firewall flange. I have
not seen the instructions mention anything about dimpling the firewall flange.
I am assuming it has to be dimpled as the skin is dimpled. Can someone
who has been through this step verify this?
Thanks
Niko
40188
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
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Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Another variable to consider that is particularly relevant to the #40 is
the thickness of the material, this will have a significant effect on
the results. At the outset of building, I was almost paranoid about this
whole deburring thing, and worried that my plane might crack and
disintegrate mid-air. I believe one of my plaintiff queries started a
thread that went way too long on the subject. However, I received a
reply from someone that really put it in perspective, The comment was
that during WWII they were cranking out planes as fast as possible,
Mustangs, B-17's etc. and they didn't take the time to debur any of
those. They didn't fall out of the air due to stress cracks then and
those that survived demolition are still flying today. I thought about
that, alot and haven't stressed over deburring since then. Thanks to
whoever sent that little bit of wisdom! I still deburr, using the
Cogsdill, and believe that it's way faster than any alternative, Is it
perfect? nope. Do I have to adjust the tool or my technique from
session to session? Yep! Would I trade it? you'd have to pry it from my
cold dead fingers!
Deems Davis # 406
Wing Flaps
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Ok....that's the second cold dead finger comment....It's not a handgun and you
guys aren't Charleton Heston ;)
Rick S.
do not archive
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
FWIW, I couldn't stand the #40 and didn't get the #30 cause there wasn't
enough #30 holes to justify in my opinion. Now back to the "old way" of
deburring.
-Sean #40303 (Long time not building)
Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> Ok....that's the second cold dead finger comment....It's not a handgun and you
guys aren't Charleton Heston ;)
>
> Rick S.
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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Wow, that sucks. You think vans could put a hole in the sticks for wires before
they weld them up. Makes me want to slice it off, drill a hole, and weld it
back on. Hmm, might just do that or drill the hole and fill the hole in the
vertical back up with flox or something.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage should be in the area!
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rob kermanj
Subject: RV10-List: Control stick
Tim and Rick, here is the picture of the control stick. You might see the snap
bushing used where the wires penetrate the bow shaped part of the control stick.
The hole on the vertical part serves only as access hole. This is the best
I could do, I hope it helps.
Rob
Message 29
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
I'm ready to layout my instrument panel and I'm wondering how much to
trim off the ribs. Can someone that has done this shed some light on
the subject before I get out the sawzaw?
RV10 Fuse
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Panel planing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sam,
It all depends on what you want to stuff back there, and where you
lay it out. If you try to lay out anything dead center, you're
going to have some issues with that center rib, and you might
not be able to trim as much as you'd like. The outer 2
ribs should be much easier.
Here's mine:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050610/index.html
But again, it all depends on what you plan to put in the panel and
where you locate it.
Tim
do not archive
Sam Marlow wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
>
> I'm ready to layout my instrument panel and I'm wondering how much to
> trim off the ribs. Can someone that has done this shed some light on
> the subject before I get out the sawzaw?
> RV10 Fuse
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
Am I the only one deburring by hand?
-Dj
do not archive
Message 32
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| Subject: | Cogsdill burraway questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Nope. I bought the cogsdill #30 and #40, and just like everyone else, I
end up doing it the old fashioned way. I have good results with the
#30, but sometimes I don't feel like getting out the air drill, turning
down the pressure, second guessing the de-bur job, etc. just pick up my
electric screwdriver tipped with the traditional avery de-burrer, and go
to town. Audio books on the ipod are a big help.
Cj
Wings (just finished riveting the top skins on!)
#40410
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
Am I the only one deburring by hand?
-Dj
do not archive
Message 33
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Has anyone compiled a good POH for the -10 yet?
grumpy 40404
Message 34
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| Subject: | Cogsdill burraway questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
After breaking my first #40 blade, sending for a new blade and pin (yes,
it's small!), and setting it up again, I finally got it to where I like it.
Before the first one broke, I really didn't care for it either. I encourage
you to play with the tension (both set screws) during some of your down time
until you can get it just a little looser than your #30 (measured by
calibrated finger presses, of course!). I use mine at full and reduced air
compressor speed as well as in cordless drills, I just vary how fast I push
and pull it through the holes.
Yes, there are some areas that just need a good round or vixen file or even
the scotchbrite wheel, but I heard something once (or twice!) about cold,
dead fingers...
Rob Wright
Tailcone
#392
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Nope. I bought the cogsdill #30 and #40, and just like everyone else, I
end up doing it the old fashioned way. I have good results with the
#30, but sometimes I don't feel like getting out the air drill, turning
down the pressure, second guessing the de-bur job, etc. just pick up my
electric screwdriver tipped with the traditional avery de-burrer, and go
to town. Audio books on the ipod are a big help.
Cj
Wings (just finished riveting the top skins on!)
#40410
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
Am I the only one deburring by hand?
-Dj
do not archive
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Nah, I think there was one other guy back in the early 90's
that did too. ;)
(Depends on what you mean by hand...a large portion are at least
using the electric screwdriver attachment)
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Dj Merrill wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
>
> Am I the only one deburring by hand?
>
> -Dj
>
> do not archive
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Nah, I think there was one other guy back in the early 90's
> that did too. ;)
>
> (Depends on what you mean by hand...a large portion are at least
> using the electric screwdriver attachment)
I have the typical electric screwdriver attachment, but
I find myself just twirling it by hand (not in the screwdriver)
for most things. I dunno - I just find it "easier" somehow.
Different strokes, I guess! :-)
-Dj
Message 37
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| Subject: | 2005 List of Contributors (Update)... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
There seemed to a number of members that were having a problem viewing the List
of Contributors this year, particularly for those using some versions of Outlook
and some web-based email clients. Just to make sure that everyone is properly
acknowledged for their generous support of the Lists this year, I have made
a simple web page with the current contributees as of 12/06/05. This can viewed
here:
http://www.matronics.com/ListOfContributors2005.html
Thank you to everyone that made a contribution this year. The Contribution web
site with all of this year's great gifts is still open for those of you that
would like to show your last minute support!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thanks again to everyone that supported the Lists this year!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email Lists Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
do not archive
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter@bigpond.net.au>
I have worked with a guy in Murray Bridge in South Australia who has built
an RV 4, RV8 and most recently RV 7A. I have seen and flown the 7A and can
say the workmanship was first class. On all his skin preperation he pre
drills and then deburs each side with a larger drill with a machined
extension, type thingamajig.
Seems to work fine for me as well.
Paul Walter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dj Merrill" <deej@deej.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> Nah, I think there was one other guy back in the early 90's
>> that did too. ;)
>>
>> (Depends on what you mean by hand...a large portion are at least
>> using the electric screwdriver attachment)
>
> I have the typical electric screwdriver attachment, but
> I find myself just twirling it by hand (not in the screwdriver)
> for most things. I dunno - I just find it "easier" somehow.
> Different strokes, I guess! :-)
>
> -Dj
>
>
>
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