Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:10 AM - Re: SilverHawk EX fuel servo verification (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
2. 11:25 AM - Re: SilverHawk EX fuel servo verification (Tim Olson)
3. 04:57 PM - finish kit question (David McNeill)
4. 06:02 PM - Andair Fuel Valve extension (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
5. 07:30 PM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve extension (Tim Olson)
6. 07:31 PM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve extension (William)
7. 07:43 PM - Re: alclad thickness (Chris Johnston)
8. 08:08 PM - Re: Re: Andair Fuel Valve extension (Tim Olson)
9. 08:12 PM - Re: finish kit question ()
10. 08:46 PM - Re: Finished Painting (Mark)
11. 10:01 PM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve extension (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
12. 10:04 PM - Re: Re: Andair Fuel Valve extension (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
13. 10:43 PM - interior painting (Sean Blair)
Message 1
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| Subject: | SilverHawk EX fuel servo verification |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Tim,
Did you ever get the answer to this?
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: SilverHawk EX fuel servo verification
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
This is a dumb question.
From the page:
http://www.precisionairmotive.com/silverhawkapplications.htm
I see they have the standard and alternate rotation configurations
for the fuel injection servo.
I *think* I am correct that we need the standard configuration,
where the Throttle rotates counterclockwise and the mixture
rotates clockwise, since pushing and pulling the cables would
seem to have the desired effect.
But, on their site, they list option #2 the alternate rotation is
"primarily aimed at Van's Aircraft RV installations", so I
thought I'd at least question it. This isn't applicable in
our situation, correct?
I have mine hooked up, with the exception of the throttle that
had too much travel. I should be getting the new cable I
bought today, so I want to make sure I'm 100% verified
so that I can bless all the parts as installed.
PS: Van's never did address my short-throw throttle cable,
so I bought a new one from them and will just send them the
old one back with a merch. return form. So, the problem
was not addressed.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: SilverHawk EX fuel servo verification |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
No, but I just have to believe that it's right. I may try to squeeze
in a call to them this week to verify.....but right now it's
a *monday*....ouch.
Tim
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Tim,
>
> Did you ever get the answer to this?
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 6:14 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: SilverHawk EX fuel servo verification
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> This is a dumb question.
>
> From the page:
> http://www.precisionairmotive.com/silverhawkapplications.htm
>
> I see they have the standard and alternate rotation configurations
> for the fuel injection servo.
>
> I *think* I am correct that we need the standard configuration,
> where the Throttle rotates counterclockwise and the mixture
> rotates clockwise, since pushing and pulling the cables would
> seem to have the desired effect.
>
> But, on their site, they list option #2 the alternate rotation is
> "primarily aimed at Van's Aircraft RV installations", so I
> thought I'd at least question it. This isn't applicable in
> our situation, correct?
>
> I have mine hooked up, with the exception of the throttle that
> had too much travel. I should be getting the new cable I
> bought today, so I want to make sure I'm 100% verified
> so that I can bless all the parts as installed.
>
> PS: Van's never did address my short-throw throttle cable,
> so I bought a new one from them and will just send them the
> old one back with a merch. return form. So, the problem
> was not addressed.
>
> Tim
Message 3
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| Subject: | finish kit question |
rigging instructions suggest trim should be left tab 0-32 down and right tab should
be 25 up to 35 down. Anybody done this? what's the reason?
Message 4
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| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve extension |
Bob & Tim,
Any updates on the extension idea? Now that I have the fuse kit and an Andair
valve I can see the value of doing this.
Michael
Do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve extension |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Not quite yet, but my stuff is on the way so it shouldn't
be too long. I still have to acquire the hose that I want
and then have it made up. Other than that it shouldn't
be a big wait.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> Bob & Tim,
>
>
>
> Any updates on the extension idea? Now that I have the fuse kit and
> an Andair valve I can see the value of doing this.
>
>
>
> Michael
>
> Do not archive
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | RE: Andair Fuel Valve extension |
Looking at the Andair site it would seem that the new FS20f7F (http://www.andair.co.uk/pdfs/FS20-5&7.pdf) with a 6 inch extension would be the ideal choice for the RV-10. This valve has 90 deg travel between left and right tank and female fittings on the sides and bottom. This would be a drop in replacement for the Weatherhead valve Vans provides in the kit. With the extension, all you would need is an AN824 Tee on the bottom, one port of the tee to the filter and the other to the pump and you are done.
The FS20f3F would also work but has a 180 degree trave between left and right tank.
I plan on using the FS20f5F. My Fuselage is scheduled to arrive in two
weeks so I'm a ways off from that stage.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Message 7
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| Subject: | alclad thickness |
hey all -
i've got a quick question - how thick is the alclad on the skins? let's say hypothetically
that someone scuffed a skin with a scotchbrite pad and wished they
hadn't... can you polish it out back to the mirror finish? will that completely
remove the alclad corrosion protection? enquiring minds want to know...
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Andair Fuel Valve extension |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I think you're very right. The key is "with a 6 inch extension".
I think the most important part is going to be getting that
valve down and out of the way of the rudder cables, and the
heater SCAT. Then beyond that, the valve you quote would
just be the easiest possible to route and plumb. Adding
some flex lines *could* make the valve job super simple for
the people coming up on that task. I'll find out soon.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
William wrote:
> Looking at the Andair site it would seem that the new FS20f7F
> (http://www.andair.co.uk/pdfs/FS20-5&7.pdf) with a 6 inch extension
> would be the ideal choice for the RV-10. This valve has 90 deg travel
> between left and right tank and female fittings on the sides and bottom.
> This would be a drop in replacement for the Weatherhead valve Vans
> provides in the kit. With the extension, all you would need is an AN824
> Tee on the bottom, one port of the tee to the filter and the other to
> the pump and you are done.
>
> The FS20f3F would also work but has a 180 degree trave between left and
> right tank. I plan on using the FS20f5F. My Fuselage is scheduled to
> arrive in two weeks so I'm a ways off from that stage.
> William Curtis
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: finish kit question |
The -10 needs more up elevator trim than down (hence the more down trim movement).
Vans created the trim tab mixer to provide a differential control. I think at
one time they were going to try and connect one trim tab to the flaps hoping for
some "automatic" trim as flaps deployed. Somewhere along the development process
they tossed that idea out.
One thing you might check, I had the bolt on one of the control rods get pretty
close to the plate as it travelled through. I shortened a bolt just a hair but
a better idea would be to open up the hole just a little.
Pictures are attached.
You can run the trim motor using a 9 volt rectangular battery. Use the two wires
on the trim motor that do not have any color stripes on them. Reverse the
leads to reverse the travel.
Jim C
#40192
N312F
============================================================
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: finish kit question
rigging instructions suggest trim should be left tab 0-32 down and right tab should
be 25 up to 35 down. Anybody done this? what's the reason?
============================================================
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Finished Painting |
Great job, Tim! And I see by your choice of colors, you must be a Dallas Cowboys
fan -;
Mark
DNA
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Olson
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2005 12:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finished Painting
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Well, initially I drew it on the PC. It was pretty easy to make and
adjust the muliple section curves that way. So, I had all 4 views
(Top, Side, Front, Isometric) on a printout in front of me for masking
it off. Then, I ran the tape as smooth as possible by hand, trying
to estimate at which points on the airframe the lines crossed. It
was then just a matter of trial and error to get something that looked
real nice, since the original scheme wasn't really in 3D. After
we thought we had it, we tried to duplicate it on the other sides.
For the wing outer ends, I did actually tape one off and make a
paper template to transfer it to the bottom and other wing.
Now, as for the durability, I think the basecoat/clearcoat will be
very durable. It's top quality auto paint. Even this a.m. after
spraying last night, it feels like it'll be nice and hard. I basically
used PPG because Randy had good luck with it, and it was available
at the most common local paint store. I think Imron would be a
fine choice too. The only negative I'd heard was that it doesn't/didn't
fill around the rivets as well.
Through a chain of friends, a DuPont rep ended up looking at my website.
They have a newer aviation paint that they would have loved to have me
try...at a discount...and it supposedly fixes the rivet filling problem.
But, since I had sprayed the PPG already, I thought it best to color
coat it with something from the same paint line.
I'll be helping another builder paint an RV-4 later this year and it
might be that we try the DuPont stuff on that project. As that
comes together, I'll make sure to let everyone know how that compares
if we spray it. I am very happy with the stuff that we sprayed though.
It seems to be very good paint. Hopefully though, the Concept will
be pretty chip resistant. I dinged a couple small nicks already, but
that was before it got a real good cure. The base/clear though seems
to be extremely tough for sure.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Jesse Saint wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> Tim,
>
> Did you just tape all of those lines by hand or did you have some sort of
> form? LOOKS AWESOME! What's the durability of the basecoat clearcoat PPG
> stuff compared to something like Imron, which doesn't seem to be a big
> choice in this group. PPG seems to be what everybody is using.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, October 31, 2005 9:22 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finished Painting
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Thanks Jack, I'll check out the EAA site. I don't go there too often,
> but this is a perfect time. I don't actually have my registration
> done, but I have had the number reserved for the last nearly 2 years...
> right when I started the project. I'm just kind of wondering when
> I can actually send in some paperwork to make the registration
> official.
>
> My current plan is to use a DAR, just because of that timeline
> issue, and my proximity to the FSDO (100 miles or so). I won't
> be getting a weight and balance done until about January, so if
> that's required before I register, then I'll be waiting for that.
> It's really getting exciting now.
>
> Thanks Jack!
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Phillips, Jack wrote:
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack"
>
> <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
>
>>Beautiful job, Tim.
>>
>>As for registering your homebuilt, I followed the recommendations from
>>the EAA's Homebuilders Headquarters when I finished my Pietenpol Air
>>Camper last year. Registration and inspection went off without a hitch.
>>You can find all the information you need on the EAA website, under
>>"Members Only", then select Homebuilders Headquarters, then select
>>"Registering" and "Articles".
>>
>>I had an inspector from the local FSDO come out and inspect mine. He
>>spent several hours poking and prodding the airplane, before signing it
>>off. The only paperwork he was interested in looking at was the
>>registration (which you obviously already have since you've got your
>>numbers painted on), and the weight and balance calculations. The
>>inspection was free. It required about a 3 weeks notice to get the
>>inspection lined up, where a DAR could have done it on a couple of days
>>notice, but the DAR in our area wanted $500 to perform the inspection.
>>
>>Jack Phillips,
>>Raleigh, NC
>>Pietenpol Air Camper NX899JP
>>RV-4 N18LR
>>RV-10 on the wish list (hope to start building next winter)
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>
>>...If anyone has a link to a good guide to getting your airworthiness
>>certificate, I'd love to start reading. I don't think I'm all that
>>far from needing to start getting paperwork together. I don't know
>>how early I can start the registration process, but now that my
>>N-Number is painted on, I feel much closer. ;)
>>
>>Tim
>
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve extension |
They were supposed to ship about the middle of last week so I expect
mine to show up in the next couple of days.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve extension
Bob & Tim,
Any updates on the extension idea? Now that I have the fuse kit and
an Andair valve I can see the value of doing this.
Michael
Do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | RE: Andair Fuel Valve extension |
Almost a drop in replacement but there's a couple of key differences.
As you note, having the extension is critical to providing clearance for
the SCAT to the rear seat heat vents. Other difference is that when
plumbing the Weatherhead valve you have to cross over with the
connections (left tank to right side of valve). With the Andair the
left tank goes to the left side.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Subject: RV10-List: RE: Andair Fuel Valve extension
Looking at the Andair site it would seem that the new FS20f7F
(http://www.andair.co.uk/pdfs/FS20-5&7.pdf) with a 6 inch extension
would be the ideal choice for the RV-10. This valve has 90 deg travel
between left and right tank and female fittings on the sides and bottom.
This would be a drop in replacement for the Weatherhead valve Vans
provides in the kit. With the extension, all you would need is an AN824
Tee on the bottom, one port of the tee to the filter and the other to
the pump and you are done.
The FS20f3F would also work but has a 180 degree trave between left and
right tank. I plan on using the FS20f5F. My Fuselage is scheduled to
arrive in two weeks so I'm a ways off from that stage.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Message 13
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| Subject: | interior painting |
I'm currently constructing the fuselage and a few questions come to mind
about painting.
Is it best to paint items that will be visible during their initial
construction or wait until the whole fuselage is constructed?
How tough is it to get at all angles to paint when the whole thing is
constructed?
Regarding the firewall..since it is stainless, no paint, correct?
Also no paint for the recess on the firewall?
Thanks for your advice in advance.
Sean S. Blair
#40225
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