Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:33 AM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Chris , Susie McGough)
2. 03:38 AM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (rob kermanj)
3. 04:04 AM - Re: List speeds (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
4. 04:48 AM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Tim Olson)
5. 04:51 AM - Re: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs (Tom Gesele)
6. 05:17 AM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? ()
7. 06:32 AM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Bill and Tami Britton)
8. 06:47 AM - Re: That time of year again.... (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
9. 07:12 AM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Chuck Jensen)
10. 07:13 AM - Re: RV10-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 12/11/05 (Jay Brinkmeyer)
11. 07:15 AM - Engine Mount Clearance - 1/4" (Tim Lewis)
12. 07:47 AM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Bill and Tami Britton)
13. 07:48 AM - Re: Engine Mount Clearance - 1/4" (BPA)
14. 08:08 AM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Bill and Tami Britton)
15. 08:31 AM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Bill and Tami Britton)
16. 08:33 AM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Schroeder, Bob (Parts Clerk))
17. 09:28 AM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Tim Olson)
18. 09:29 AM - Re: Blue protective covering question (Comcast)
19. 09:29 AM - Re: deburring and primer prep (Comcast)
20. 10:56 AM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Larry Rosen)
21. 11:12 AM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Bruce Case)
22. 01:18 PM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Albert Gardner)
23. 01:20 PM - The Night Before Christmas (John Jessen)
24. 01:28 PM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Mike Lauritsen - Work)
25. 01:55 PM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Rick)
26. 01:56 PM - Re: shipping costs (steve dinieri)
27. 02:06 PM - Re: deburring and primer prep (Rick)
28. 02:07 PM - Re: shipping costs (Rick)
29. 02:13 PM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Rick)
30. 02:29 PM - Re: shipping costs (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
31. 02:30 PM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Tim Olson)
32. 02:32 PM - Re: shipping costs (Tim Olson)
33. 02:43 PM - Re: shipping costs (Sean Stephens)
34. 02:44 PM - Re: shipping costs (Tim Olson)
35. 02:46 PM - Re: shipping costs (PJ Seipel)
36. 02:48 PM - Re: shipping costs (James Hein)
37. 02:51 PM - Re: St Nick (David McNeill)
38. 02:58 PM - Re: shipping costs (David McNeill)
39. 02:58 PM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Mike Lauritsen - Work)
40. 02:59 PM - Garmin GTX-327 pricing (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
41. 03:13 PM - Re: Garmin GTX-327 pricing (Rene Felker)
42. 03:20 PM - Re: Garmin GTX-327 pricing (David McNeill)
43. 03:26 PM - Re: shipping costs (Conti, Rick)
44. 03:30 PM - Re: Garmin GTX-327 pricing (Brinker)
45. 03:33 PM - Re: Garmin GTX-327 pricing (Brinker)
46. 03:39 PM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
47. 03:56 PM - Re: Garmin GTX-327 pricing (David McNeill)
48. 04:12 PM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Bill and Tami Britton)
49. 04:27 PM - PS Engineering 8000 Audio panel for sale (Tim Olson)
50. 05:20 PM - Re: Garmin GTX-327 pricing (Eric Panning)
51. 06:46 PM - Re: Did I ruin my skin??? (Marcus Cooper)
52. 07:36 PM - Re: shipping costs (Jesse Saint)
53. 08:57 PM - Re: shipping costs (John Lenhardt)
54. 09:15 PM - Re: shipping costs (Robert G. Wright)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
Mate oh my get someone to show you how to do it.......no offence but it looks like
an elephant has done it.
My opinion only but I would get a new skin and get an experienced builder over
to show you how.
Now don't get down about it that's why Vans gets you to build the tail first so
if you have a stuff up the part is easily and cheaply replaced.
So get help and move on
good luck
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 5:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight and it doesn't
look very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge rolling process yet in
my building. Anyway, I didn't apply much pressure at all and the first skin,
after a single pass, turned out wavy. Check out the picture and let me know
what you think. Tomorrow I'll try clecoing it to the trailing edge wedge and
see how it looks.
Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm wondering how big
the gap would actually be if I just didn't worry about rolling the edges on the
elevator skins??? Just curious.
Bill
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
Yes. You did ruin your skin. It is not too late for rest of your
project though. Get some help from an experienced builder in your area.
rob kermanj
rv10es@earthlink.net
On Dec 15, 2005, at 1:02 AM, Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight and
> it doesn't look very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge
> rolling process yet in my building. Anyway, I didn't apply much
> pressure at all and the first skin, after a single pass, turned
> out wavy. Check out the picture and let me know what you think.
> Tomorrow I'll try clecoing it to the trailing edge wedge and see
> how it looks.
>
> Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm
> wondering how big the gap would actually be if I just didn't worry
> about rolling the edges on the elevator skins??? Just curious.
>
> Bill
> <MVC-003S.JPG>
Message 3
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You're still the man Matt!
Michael
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Subject: RE: RV10-List: List speeds
--> RV10-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Depends on where your email address is on the subscription list for delivery.
It its at the top for some reason, the delivery will be instant. If its at the
bottom, it will take some amount of time depending on how many people are on
the list. If there are addresses on the list that are invalid or on a host that
doesn't exist any longer, then the timeouts can be long and delay the delivery.
When I run the Weasel it cleans out all of the email addresses that are
bad and greatly decreases the overall delivery time.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
At 07:05 PM 12/14/2005 Wednesday, you wrote:
>Funny you should mention that. The unmod Yahoo lists are instantaneous for me.
>
>Michael
>Do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>mailto:owner-rv10-list-se
>rver@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 7:08 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: List speeds
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
><tongue inserted into cheek>
>
>Anyone for moving back to yahoo?
>
><tongue removed>
>
>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>John Jessen wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>>
>> I've not ever gotten quick turn around. I've just assumed that 20
>> minutes was usual.
>>
>> John
>>
>> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>mailto:owner-rv10-list-
>> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 4:13 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: List speeds
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> I think it's varying depending on when your email goes through.
>> Imagine that their server is handling every email list, so if they
>> get 20 emails in a few minutes, there are thousands and thousands to
>> deliver, and they queue up. Just today I had one come back realy
>> quick, but at a time when the lists were slow.
>>
>>
>> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>>
>>> Anyone else notice that the list post speed seems to be slowing down?
>>>I've been kinda watching and my posts seem to be taking 20+ minutes
>>>to show up. Checked my server logs and it's showing an immediate
>>>transfer to Matt's server.
>>>
>>>Michael
>>>do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>nbsp; -- Please Support Your Lists This Month (And Get Annual List below to Incentive Gifts * The Builder's Bookstore * Aeroware Enterprises www.kitlog.com, List Contribution Web sp; http://www.matronics.com/cThank you for your generous bsp; -Matt Dralle, List nbsp; Photoshare, and much much ; &
>-->
>
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Man Bill, you're making me feel awful. I know offline I gave a few
tips, but there's something going on that I just am not familiar
with. Do you have a photo of your edge roller? I'd like to see
the horrible tool that could do such a thing. I have the simple
small hockey puck-with-2-shower-drawer-rollers style that Avery
sells, and didn't have any problem on any skins, although I was worried
at first too. Also, I had slightly better luck rolling before the
edges were dimpled, but it worked ok both was. I honestly
can't picture what could have caused your edge to look that way...
perhaps the picture makes it look worse than it is? It could be that
your edges aren't rolled hardly at all, but you just bent it down
in certain areas.
I'd do 2 things:
#1 - like everyone said, get an experienced builder to help for a
minute...take the skins to their house if you have to....or that's
probably even the best thing to do anyway. They may be able
to evaluate your skins and see that it isnt' that bad and can
be corrected and nobody would ever know.
#2 - have someone look at your edge roller. Maybe it's some funky
style that just sucks.
#3 - if you have to, buy new skins. If it makes you feel better, you
can dig through my rudder section on my site and read about how I
dimpled through my trailing edges in places where holes didn't belown,
and in a way that was basically awful hard to make nice....so I bought
new skins. BTW: YES, van's should be able to UPS the skins sandwhiched
between boards. They told me originally that they couldn't, but they
do fit into one of the oversized UPS categories, so you don't have to
wait for freight....and I think they were about $40 each.
I guess if #1 doesn't work out, then "better luck next time". I feel
for ya.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight and it
> doesn't look very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge rolling
> process yet in my building. Anyway, I didn't apply much pressure at all
> and the first skin, after a single pass, turned out wavy. Check out
> the picture and let me know what you think. Tomorrow I'll try clecoing
> it to the trailing edge wedge and see how it looks.
>
> Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm wondering
> how big the gap would actually be if I just didn't worry about rolling
> the edges on the elevator skins??? Just curious.
>
> Bill
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs |
There is a tip on doing this at
http://www.experimentalaero.com/Builders%20Tips.htm
It's the method I used and they came out great.
Tom Gesele
#473 - Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 5:00 PM
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs
For those that have gone before me, how did you dimple the last 3 holes on
the flanges of the E-903 tip ribs. The squeezer is too large to fit and
there's not enough room to get the pins through the holes using the close
quarters dimple dies. I tried shortening one of the pins but when I get it
short enough to make it through the holes on the flanges, it's not long
enough for the "pop" rivet tool to grasp!!!!!
Bill Britton
RV-10 #40137 Elevators
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Good morning Bill,Hugo here ,we are at the same stage,order another skin,now you
have a nice piece to practice ,the method I use at first and was OK,set the
skin ,in the edge of the table or smothing relative sharp, set the skin 1/4 inc
out of the border ,put a leather glove and gently pass your thumb over the edge
,many times ,until you see a bend,you don't have to really bend, need only
a deflection ,wich will match the other side ,I order the tool with the two rollers
but is to deep,very closed to the dimples,unfortunaly I didn't try first
,then I have to use in all four elev. skins.If I chop some materials from the
rollers may be will became a godd tool,any way if you use it be carefull it
tend to deviate from straigth line and you will produce a bend out of line ,and
will not be possible to dissimulate ,use the glove and your felling,you will
see,is work.
Hugo
gommone7@bellsouth.net
>
> From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
> Date: 2005/12/15 Thu AM 01:02:32 EST
> To: <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
>
> Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight and it doesn't
look very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge rolling process yet in
my building. Anyway, I didn't apply much pressure at all and the first skin,
after a single pass, turned out wavy. Check out the picture and let me know
what you think. Tomorrow I'll try clecoing it to the trailing edge wedge and
see how it looks.
>
> Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm wondering how big
the gap would actually be if I just didn't worry about rolling the edges on the
elevator skins??? Just curious.
>
> Bill
>
Message 7
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spamd3.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
* -2.6 BAYES_00 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 0 to 1%
| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
I knew things wre going too good. I guess I should've just gone to bed last
night instead of going to the garage to work. Oh well, then I would have
just ruint it today instead of last night though.
Anyway, here's a picture of the tool I used and another shot of the skin.
I'm not blaming it on the tool, it's definitely my mistake but does anybody
else use this tool???
I'll order the new skin but I also need some proseal. I'll proseal the foam
ribs to the rear spar on the elevators and I'm not sure where I'll use it
next (probably the fuel tanks on the wings, maybe). Anyhow, can anybody
offer me any suggestions on which type to order from Vans and how much??? I
have not used this stuff yet either, so, can anybody give me the lowdown on
it???
Thanks again,
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Man Bill, you're making me feel awful. I know offline I gave a few
> tips, but there's something going on that I just am not familiar
> with. Do you have a photo of your edge roller? I'd like to see
> the horrible tool that could do such a thing. I have the simple
> small hockey puck-with-2-shower-drawer-rollers style that Avery
> sells, and didn't have any problem on any skins, although I was worried
> at first too. Also, I had slightly better luck rolling before the
> edges were dimpled, but it worked ok both was. I honestly
> can't picture what could have caused your edge to look that way...
> perhaps the picture makes it look worse than it is? It could be that
> your edges aren't rolled hardly at all, but you just bent it down
> in certain areas.
>
> I'd do 2 things:
>
> #1 - like everyone said, get an experienced builder to help for a
> minute...take the skins to their house if you have to....or that's
> probably even the best thing to do anyway. They may be able
> to evaluate your skins and see that it isnt' that bad and can
> be corrected and nobody would ever know.
>
> #2 - have someone look at your edge roller. Maybe it's some funky
> style that just sucks.
>
> #3 - if you have to, buy new skins. If it makes you feel better, you
> can dig through my rudder section on my site and read about how I
> dimpled through my trailing edges in places where holes didn't belown,
> and in a way that was basically awful hard to make nice....so I bought
> new skins. BTW: YES, van's should be able to UPS the skins sandwhiched
> between boards. They told me originally that they couldn't, but they
> do fit into one of the oversized UPS categories, so you don't have to
> wait for freight....and I think they were about $40 each.
>
> I guess if #1 doesn't work out, then "better luck next time". I feel
> for ya.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
>> Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight and it
>> doesn't look very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge rolling
>> process yet in my building. Anyway, I didn't apply much pressure at all
>> and the first skin, after a single pass, turned out wavy. Check out the
>> picture and let me know what you think. Tomorrow I'll try clecoing it to
>> the trailing edge wedge and see how it looks.
>> Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm wondering
>> how big the gap would actually be if I just didn't worry about rolling
>> the edges on the elevator skins??? Just curious.
>> Bill
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | That time of year again.... |
I put a deposit earlier this week and was told 3% increase, with the new
policy that a deposit will hold price they have seen a big in flux in
orders.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RV10-List: That time of year again....
Anyone have any idea how much the kit's are going up Jan1?
Michael
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Did I ruin my skin??? |
Look's to be a tad out of spec, but you could always put it on a
Cessna...nobody'd notice.
Chuck Jensen
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight and it
doesn't look very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge rolling
process yet in my building. Anyway, I didn't apply much pressure at all
and the first skin, after a single pass, turned out wavy. Check out
the picture and let me know what you think. Tomorrow I'll try clecoing
it to the trailing edge wedge and see how it looks.
Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm wondering
how big the gap would actually be if I just didn't worry about rolling
the edges on the elevator skins??? Just curious.
Bill
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 12/11/05 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
I've been using www.1and1.com for several years. They have good packages,
answer the phone when you have questions, and offer lots of space for a
reasonable price.
Jay
Do not archive
>
> Time: 08:55:03 AM PST US
> From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
> Subject: RV10-List: Off Topic - Web Host
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
> I just finished updating my web page and I am trying to upload my files
> and I just exceeded the amount of free space my cable Internet service
> provider gives me.
>
> Any suggestions or recommendations on a web hosting service?
>
> Larry Rosen
> Do Not Archive
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Engine Mount Clearance - 1/4" |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
List,
FYI, Tom Green @ Vans says 1/4" clearance between the sump and engine
mount is adequate. I had just under that in my installation (C4B5), so
I sent mine in to be modified.
My Lycoming parts manual for the narrow deck IO-540 says the C4B5 and
D4A5 use the same part number for the sump (LW-13901). Does anybody
know if the wide deck uses the same sump part number?
I'm finishing the overhaul of my elderly IO-540. It's been a neat
experience. If you have a mentor and the interest, I recommend it.
Tim
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: Engine Mount Clearance (RV-10)
From: Tom Green <tomg@vansaircraft.com>
Tim, Bruce was a little high on his estimate... our engineering staff
would be happy with 1/4" . The motion in that location is not going
make contact possible.
On another note however, the D4A5 sumps seem different than
some other sumps in that area... we have close to 3/8" on every
D4A5 installation we have witnessed... while our original (410RV)
only has about 1/4"...
On the other hand, now is the time if you are going to lay awake at
night worrying over it...
Old Tom
Date sent: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 11:31:55 -0500
From: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
Send reply to: Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu
Subject: Engine Mount Clearance (RV-10)
Tom,
I've got less than 1/4" between my RV-10 engine mount and the
IO-540-C4B5 sump. Per Bruce's email (attached), it appears 1/2" is
desired. When I spoke to Ken on the phone today he told me that 1/4" is
more than enough. When I brought up Bruce's email, Ken said I have the
option to send the mount in and have the curved bar welded on. To be on
the safe side, I'm going to do that.
Does Vans have a position on the minimum clearance one should look for?
Thanks,
Tim
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I thought I'd pass this along, because I know that there are at
least a few parties that this applies to.
I sent Van's a note asking about the required clearance on the
rear crossbar of the RV-10 Engine Mount. Mine is between
1/16" and 1/8". A piece of .063 does fit thru the gap, and
a piece of .125 does not. Here is their reply:
-------
Tim,
I'm sorry to report that the tube on your mount that is to close to
the sump must be moved. You can cut it off and re-weld it yourself
or return the mount to us and we will do it. There should be finger
clearance between the tube and the sump, about 1/2" should do it.
Bruce Reynolds
brucer@vansaircraft.com
--------
So, I guess I have a project to do before I can continue. I'm very
glad I haven't hooked up my cabling yet. Question: Is this a
weld that you would trust your local welder with, or not?
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
Just got an e-mail back from Vans. They say to go with it. They think that the
wedge should hold it down, especially if I'd glue it. Any thoughts on this
idea or should I just play it safe and order a new one.
Sorry to keep dragging this out but I want to do what's easiest/best.
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Jensen
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 9:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Look's to be a tad out of spec, but you could always put it on a Cessna.nobody'd
notice.
Chuck Jensen
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 1:03 AM
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight and it doesn't
look very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge rolling process yet in
my building. Anyway, I didn't apply much pressure at all and the first skin,
after a single pass, turned out wavy. Check out the picture and let me know
what you think. Tomorrow I'll try clecoing it to the trailing edge wedge and
see how it looks.
Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm wondering how big
the gap would actually be if I just didn't worry about rolling the edges on the
elevator skins??? Just curious.
Bill
Message 13
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| Subject: | Engine Mount Clearance - 1/4" |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "BPA" <BPA@BPAENGINES.COM>
Tim,
The wide deck does use the same part numbered sump.
Allen Barrett
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Lewis
Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance - 1/4"
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
List,
FYI, Tom Green @ Vans says 1/4" clearance between the sump and engine
mount is adequate. I had just under that in my installation (C4B5), so
I sent mine in to be modified.
My Lycoming parts manual for the narrow deck IO-540 says the C4B5 and
D4A5 use the same part number for the sump (LW-13901). Does anybody
know if the wide deck uses the same sump part number?
I'm finishing the overhaul of my elderly IO-540. It's been a neat
experience. If you have a mentor and the interest, I recommend it.
Tim
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: Engine Mount Clearance (RV-10)
From: Tom Green <tomg@vansaircraft.com>
Tim, Bruce was a little high on his estimate... our engineering staff
would be happy with 1/4" . The motion in that location is not going
make contact possible.
On another note however, the D4A5 sumps seem different than
some other sumps in that area... we have close to 3/8" on every
D4A5 installation we have witnessed... while our original (410RV)
only has about 1/4"...
On the other hand, now is the time if you are going to lay awake at
night worrying over it...
Old Tom
Date sent: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 11:31:55 -0500
From: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
Send reply to: Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu
Subject: Engine Mount Clearance (RV-10)
Tom,
I've got less than 1/4" between my RV-10 engine mount and the
IO-540-C4B5 sump. Per Bruce's email (attached), it appears 1/2" is
desired. When I spoke to Ken on the phone today he told me that 1/4" is
more than enough. When I brought up Bruce's email, Ken said I have the
option to send the mount in and have the curved bar welded on. To be on
the safe side, I'm going to do that.
Does Vans have a position on the minimum clearance one should look for?
Thanks,
Tim
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I thought I'd pass this along, because I know that there are at
least a few parties that this applies to.
I sent Van's a note asking about the required clearance on the
rear crossbar of the RV-10 Engine Mount. Mine is between
1/16" and 1/8". A piece of .063 does fit thru the gap, and
a piece of .125 does not. Here is their reply:
-------
Tim,
I'm sorry to report that the tube on your mount that is to close to
the sump must be moved. You can cut it off and re-weld it yourself
or return the mount to us and we will do it. There should be finger
clearance between the tube and the sump, about 1/2" should do it.
Bruce Reynolds
brucer@vansaircraft.com
--------
So, I guess I have a project to do before I can continue. I'm very
glad I haven't hooked up my cabling yet. Question: Is this a
weld that you would trust your local welder with, or not?
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
Here's the last set of pictures I'll post of this. I clecoed the skin to the AEX
wedge and it flattened most of it out. However, as you can see in the pics
there's still some waviness in the middle. Is it possible to get this out??
Another question is, if I decide to keep this skin does it need further edge
rolling (more would probably make it worse unless I could just use the seamers
and put a super small "bend" in it)? Vans mentioned gluing it to the wedge.
How would that affect it??
Now, I promise to lay this to rest. I'll wait for a few replies then probably
order the new skin!!!!!
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight and it doesn't
look very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge rolling process yet in
my building. Anyway, I didn't apply much pressure at all and the first skin,
after a single pass, turned out wavy. Check out the picture and let me know
what you think. Tomorrow I'll try clecoing it to the trailing edge wedge and
see how it looks.
Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm wondering how big
the gap would actually be if I just didn't worry about rolling the edges on the
elevator skins??? Just curious.
Bill
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
OOPS forgot to attach the pics.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Here's the last set of pictures I'll post of this. I clecoed the skin to the
AEX wedge and it flattened most of it out. However, as you can see in the pics
there's still some waviness in the middle. Is it possible to get this out??
Another question is, if I decide to keep this skin does it need further edge
rolling (more would probably make it worse unless I could just use the seamers
and put a super small "bend" in it)? Vans mentioned gluing it to the wedge.
How would that affect it??
Now, I promise to lay this to rest. I'll wait for a few replies then probably
order the new skin!!!!!
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 1:03 AM
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight and it doesn't
look very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge rolling process yet
in my building. Anyway, I didn't apply much pressure at all and the first skin,
after a single pass, turned out wavy. Check out the picture and let me know
what you think. Tomorrow I'll try clecoing it to the trailing edge wedge and
see how it looks.
Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm wondering how big
the gap would actually be if I just didn't worry about rolling the edges on
the elevator skins??? Just curious.
Bill
Message 16
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| Subject: | Did I ruin my skin??? |
I had issues with the rudder. I just ordered new skins and they weren't
that expensive in the grand scheme of things. You can probably use the
old ones, but as soon as you're done assembling them you'll probably
wish that you had gone ahead and ordered new.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Here's the last set of pictures I'll post of this. I clecoed the skin
to the AEX wedge and it flattened most of it out. However, as you can
see in the pics there's still some waviness in the middle. Is it
possible to get this out?? Another question is, if I decide to keep
this skin does it need further edge rolling (more would probably make it
worse unless I could just use the seamers and put a super small "bend"
in it)? Vans mentioned gluing it to the wedge. How would that affect
it??
Now, I promise to lay this to rest. I'll wait for a few replies then
probably order the new skin!!!!!
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight
and it doesn't look very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge
rolling process yet in my building. Anyway, I didn't apply much
pressure at all and the first skin, after a single pass, turned out
wavy. Check out the picture and let me know what you think. Tomorrow
I'll try clecoing it to the trailing edge wedge and see how it looks.
Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm
wondering how big the gap would actually be if I just didn't worry about
rolling the edges on the elevator skins??? Just curious.
Bill
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Bill,
Those first pictures made it look worse than the other pictures
did. I think there's a good chance you're OK.
Here's what I think.
A) That roller tool isn't fantastic. The Avery hockey puck one
is very similar, but fits in the palm of your hand and I think
that makes it easier to control.
B) I think that you just didn't get a consistent, and sharp breaking
bend to the edge. When you bend the edge, as far as I know, it isn't
a super smooth transition, but an actual straight-line bend that
angles the skin back maybe 10-15 degrees. It looks to me like you
kind of let it bend in some areas and not in others, and maybe tried
to keep the bend from creasing. I'm not an expert, but in my own
opinion, which may be wrong, that bend should actually be a visible
crease in the skin. The trick is just keeping it consistent.
That said, I have a small...not as large as your clecoed pics,
bit of pillowing between my rivets....caused by rolling the edge
after it was dimpled.
Anyway, I'd definitely have someone handy look at it to judge it
for you and show you how to do them, but it sure looks like you
can salvage that skin.
PS: regarding your proseal, get the quart can size. That's the
slower stuff and will be perfect for doing your tanks and
any other trailing edges, firewall sealants and heater box
sealing, and a few other chores. If you haven't started
your tanks, and have the money to burn, I personally would
get 2 cans.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> OOPS forgot to attach the pics.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Bill and Tami Britton <mailto:william@gbta.net>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 15, 2005 10:08 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
>
> Here's the last set of pictures I'll post of this. I clecoed the
> skin to the AEX wedge and it flattened most of it out. However, as
> you can see in the pics there's still some waviness in the middle.
> Is it possible to get this out?? Another question is, if I decide
> to keep this skin does it need further edge rolling (more would
> probably make it worse unless I could just use the seamers and put a
> super small "bend" in it)? Vans mentioned gluing it to the wedge.
> How would that affect it??
>
> Now, I promise to lay this to rest. I'll wait for a few replies
> then probably order the new skin!!!!!
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill
> and Tami Britton
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 15, 2005 1:03 AM
> *To:* RV10-list@matronics.com <mailto:RV10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
>
>
>
> Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight
> and it doesn't look very good. I haven't had much luck with
> this edge rolling process yet in my building. Anyway, I didn't
> apply much pressure at all and the first skin, after a single
> pass, turned out wavy. Check out the picture and let me know
> what you think. Tomorrow I'll try clecoing it to the trailing
> edge wedge and see how it looks.
>
>
>
> Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm
> wondering how big the gap would actually be if I just didn't
> worry about rolling the edges on the elevator skins??? Just
> curious.
>
>
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Blue protective covering question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Comcast" <kenbpeck@comcast.net>
I missed it as well. But then, I'm scuffing and priming the skins both
sides, so don't think I'm going through the extra work of the soldering iron
gig.
----- Original Message -----
From: <LIKE2LOOP@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Blue protective covering question
> --> RV10-List message posted by: LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
>
> do not archive
>
> Thanks! somehow I missed the part about the soldering iron and focused
> on the statement about removing the blue before long term storage to avoid
> corrosion. VS ready for dimpling.... Thanks again - Steve
>
>
> In a message dated 12/3/05 1:53 pm, n8vim@arrl.net writes:
> << use a cheap soldering iron and make the tip blunt and you can
> melt lines into the blue covering and then peel it off in strips.
>
> It actually is in the builders manual, page 5-6. >>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: deburring and primer prep |
Rick,
Great idea on the spray bottle. I do have a question though... If I remember
the instructions that came w/ the alumiprep and alodine, if using a bath, you
dilute the solutions w/ water, but if applying directly, you were to apply full
strength. When you use the spray bottle, are you diluting the both the alumiprep
and the alodine the same ratios as it calls for in the bath?
Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: deburring and primer prep
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
Bill,
I have had great luck with Alumaprep and a red Scothbrite pad. It cleans the
parts easily and once you rinse it off and it dries it is ready for Alodine or
primer. The Alumaprep comes in gallons and you dilute it with water. I keep a
spray bottle, spray the parts and scrub with the pad then rinse, works great.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I think you will regret not getting new skins. Even if the fix works
out you will always know about any imperfection. Like another poster
said, in the grand scheme of things the new skins are not that expensive.
I like Cleaveland's edge forming tool
<http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/products.asp?dept=56>. It is
not cheep at $39, but it is a quality tool that works well.
Larry Rosen
N205EN (reserved)
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bruce Case" <pioneer@choiceonemail.com>
Bill,
Not sure what tool you are using, but if you use the Avery tool and gently
move along the edge in repeated passes you will end up with a nice small
bend in the skins. Did your rudder turn out OK as that is the same process?
Bruce Case
Message 22
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| Subject: | Did I ruin my skin??? |
I've been very happy with the way the edge rolling looks when the parts are
put together. I took a few pics of my tank edge to share for what it's
worth. By the way, I practice anything I'm not familiar with on scrap before
I try it on the kit part$.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Message 23
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| Subject: | The Night Before Christmas |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
You've undoubtedly seen this before?
The Night Before Christmas - Aviation Style
===============================================
'Twas the night before Christmas, and out on the ramp, Not an airplane was
stirring, not even a Champ.
The aircraft were fastened to tiedowns with care, In hopes that come
morning, they all would be there.
The fuel trucks were nestled, all snug in their spots, With gusts from
two-forty at 39 knots.
I slumped at the fuel desk, now finally caught up, And settled down
comfortably, resting my butt.
When the radio lit up with noise and with chatter, I turned up the scanner
to see what was the matter.
A voice clearly heard over static and snow, Called for clearance to land at
the airport below.
He barked his transmission so lively and quick, I'd have sworn that the call
sign he used was "St. Nick".
I ran to the panel to turn up the lights, The better to welcome this magical
flight.
He called his position, no room for denial, "St. Nicholas One, turnin' left
onto final."
And what to my wondering eyes should appear, But a Rutan-built sleigh, with
eight Rotax Reindeer!
With vectors to final, down the glideslope he came, As he passed all fixes,
he called them by name:
"Now Ringo! Now Tolga! Now Trini and Bacun!
On Comet! On Cupid!" What pills was he takin'?
While controllers were sittin', and scratchin' their head, They phoned to my
office, and I heard it with dread, The message they left was both urgent and
dour:
"When Santa pulls in, have him please call the tower."
He landed like silk, with the sled runners sparking, Then I heard "Left at
Charlie," and "Taxi to parking."
He slowed to a taxi, turned off of three-oh And stopped on the ramp with a
"Ho, ho-ho-ho..."
He stepped out of the sleigh, but before he could talk, I ran out to meet
him with my best set of chocks.
His red helmet and goggles were covered with frost And his beard was all
blackened from Reindeer exhaust.
His breath smelled like peppermint, gone slightly stale, And he puffed on a
pipe, but he didn't inhale.
His cheeks were all rosy and jiggled like jelly, His boots were as black as
a cropduster's belly.
He was chubby and plump, in his suit of bright red, And he asked me to "fill
it, with hundred low-lead."
He came dashing in from the snow-covered pump, I knew he was anxious for
drainin' the sump.
I spoke not a word, but went straight to my work, And I filled up the
sleigh, but I spilled like a jerk.
He came out of the restroom, and sighed in relief, Then he picked up a phone
for a Flight Service brief.
And I thought as he silently scribed in his log, These reindeer could land
in an eighth-mile fog.
He completed his pre-flight, from the front to the rear, Then he put on his
headset, and I heard him yell, "Clear!"
And laying a finger on his push-to-talk, He called up the tower for
clearance and squawk.
"Take taxiway Charlie, the southbound direction, Turn right three-two-zero
at pilot's discretion"
He sped down the runway, the best of the best, "Your traffic's a Grumman,
inbound from the west."
Then I heard him proclaim, as he climbed thru the night, "Merry Christmas to
all! I have traffic in sight."
Message 24
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| Subject: | Did I ruin my skin??? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike@cleavelandtool.com>
Bill,
I am sorry that happened to your skin. It really shows how good tools will
make or break the finish of an aircraft. I will give you our edge forming
tool and make sure you understand how to use it in exchange for a "customer
testimonial" the old skin, the old tool, and permission to use your photos.
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=EF60
Thanks,
Mike
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I think you will regret not getting new skins. Even if the fix works
out you will always know about any imperfection. Like another poster
said, in the grand scheme of things the new skins are not that expensive.
I like Cleaveland's edge forming tool
<http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/products.asp?dept=56>. It is
not cheep at $39, but it is a quality tool that works well.
Larry Rosen
N205EN (reserved)
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Did I ruin my skin??? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
FWIW,
I have Mike's tool (Cleaveland) and it works like a champ, follow his instructions
and you won't be disappointed. It will trash out an edge too but it has a
fine adjustment and once you learn to set it up and pass it along the edge you'll
never use another edge tool.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: shipping costs |
i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered in november.
(there must have been a screw up in processing) but it seems much higher than
i've paid for any other crate from vans in the past. What have you guys experienced
as far as costs go??? they're trying to collect 890 bucks and telling
me thats with vans discount. i know vans has a 60% discount with roadway express,
which means the real retail price should be 1500 bucks or so. what say
ye'?????(btw..destination was niagara falls,NY)
steve dinieri
n221rv
n231rv
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: deburring and primer prep |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
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Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: shipping costs |
DNA: do not archive
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Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
DNA: do not archive
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Message 30
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Sounds right. Mine last week was $745 to a business address in Texas. Residential
is always about $50-$100 more. Quite the screw job these freight companies
have going. It had a $120 fuel surcharge on it too. This is the first time
Van's shipped to me via Roadway. The other times it was ABF and much cheaper
but then again the fuse crate is huge to accommodate that canopy.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve dinieri
Subject: Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered in november.
(there must have been a screw up in processing) but it seems much higher than
i've paid for any other crate from vans in the past. What have you guys experienced
as far as costs go??? they're trying to collect 890 bucks and telling
me thats with vans discount. i know vans has a 60% discount with roadway express,
which means the real retail price should be 1500 bucks or so. what say
ye'?????(btw..destination was niagara falls,NY)
steve dinieri
n221rv
n231rv
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Albert,
That's the tool I have too. Works well. VERY nice write-up with
photos. Thanks! You've helped a lot of people who are starting
out with that post.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Albert Gardner wrote:
> Ive been very happy with the way the edge rolling looks when the parts
> are put together. I took a few pics of my tank edge to share for what
> its worth. By the way, I practice anything Im not familiar with on
> scrap before I try it on the kit part$.
>
> Albert Gardner
>
> Yuma, AZ
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: shipping costs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Actually, that doesn't seem out of line.
In April 2005, I paid for my QB Fuse and finishing kit. $1500
to Wisconsin. I'd bet that fuel costs went up since then,
so considering a non-QB, you're probably not waaaay out of line.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
steve dinieri wrote:
> i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered in
> november. (there must have been a screw up in processing) but it seems
> much higher than i've paid for any other crate from vans in the past.
> What have you guys experienced as far as costs go??? they're trying to
> collect 890 bucks and telling me thats with vans discount. i know vans
> has a 60% discount with roadway express, which means the real retail
> price should be 1500 bucks or so. what say ye'?????(btw..destination was
> niagara falls,NY)
>
> steve dinieri
> n221rv
> n231rv
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: shipping costs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Fuel is now coming back down in a major way, so there shouldn't be much
fuel surcharges anymore like we've seen in the past?
-Sean #40303
do not archive
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> Sounds right. Mine last week was $745 to a business address in
> Texas. Residential is always about $50-$100 more. Quite the screw
> job these freight companies have going. It had a $120 fuel surcharge
> on it too. This is the first time Van's shipped to me via Roadway.
> The other times it was ABF and much cheaper but then again the fuse
> crate is huge to accommodate that canopy.
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *steve dinieri
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 15, 2005 3:57 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
>
> i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered
> in november. (there must have been a screw up in processing) but it
> seems much higher than i've paid for any other crate from vans in the
> past. What have you guys experienced as far as costs go???
> they're trying to collect 890 bucks and telling me thats with vans
> discount. i know vans has a 60% discount with roadway express, which
> means the real retail price should be 1500 bucks or so. what say
> ye'?????(btw..destination was niagara falls,NY)
>
> steve dinieri
> n221rv
> n231rv
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: shipping costs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
PS: Regarding my $1500 shipping....
I had my crates shipped and specified to ship only to the local
terminal....no home delivery. That saves a bunch of money too.
You just have to make sure you get it off their dock within
a day of having it show up. (make sure you pre-ask this question
of your local terminal)
So, I would have paid more if I had them delivered all the way.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> Sounds right. Mine last week was $745 to a business address in Texas.
> Residential is always about $50-$100 more. Quite the screw job these
> freight companies have going. It had a $120 fuel surcharge on it too.
> This is the first time Van's shipped to me via Roadway. The other times
> it was ABF and much cheaper but then again the fuse crate is huge to
> accommodate that canopy.
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *steve dinieri
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 15, 2005 3:57 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
>
> i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered in
> november. (there must have been a screw up in processing) but it seems
> much higher than i've paid for any other crate from vans in the past.
> What have you guys experienced as far as costs go??? they're trying to
> collect 890 bucks and telling me thats with vans discount. i know vans
> has a 60% discount with roadway express, which means the real retail
> price should be 1500 bucks or so. what say ye'?????(btw..destination was
> niagara falls,NY)
>
> steve dinieri
> n221rv
> n231rv
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: shipping costs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
Sounds about right. I paid $900 to Chesapeake VA.
PJ
40032
steve dinieri wrote:
> i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered
> in november. (there must have been a screw up in processing) but it
> seems much higher than i've paid for any other crate from vans in the
> past. What have you guys experienced as far as costs go???
> they're trying to collect 890 bucks and telling me thats with vans
> discount. i know vans has a 60% discount with roadway express, which
> means the real retail price should be 1500 bucks or so. what say
> ye'?????(btw..destination was niagara falls,NY)
>
> steve dinieri
> n221rv
> n231rv
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: shipping costs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Last I checked, the profit surcharge, er I mean "fuel surchrge" ABF was
charging was about 16% of the shipping bill, and it has NOT gone down
when the fuel prices went down.
On a side note, where I work we have our own FedEx account. Last month,
we had a supplier send us parts *on our FedEx account* and they STILL
wanted to charge us a fuel surcharge, when in fact they were not
shipping *anything* at their cost.
-Jim
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Actually, that doesn't seem out of line.
> In April 2005, I paid for my QB Fuse and finishing kit. $1500
> to Wisconsin. I'd bet that fuel costs went up since then,
> so considering a non-QB, you're probably not waaaay out of line.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> steve dinieri wrote:
>
>> i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered
>> in november. (there must have been a screw up in processing) but it
>> seems much higher than i've paid for any other crate from vans in the
>> past. What have you guys experienced as far as costs go??? they're
>> trying to collect 890 bucks and telling me thats with vans
>> discount. i know vans has a 60% discount with roadway express, which
>> means the real retail price should be 1500 bucks or so. what say
>> ye'?????(btw..destination was niagara falls,NY)
>>
>> steve dinieri
>> n221rv
>> n231rv
>
>
> your generous support!
>
>
Message 37
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
St. Nick arrived early rhis year. Just received the Hartzell prop. Opened
the box and retrieved the paperwork; will inspect this weekend.
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: shipping costs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
I too picked up the freight at the local Fedex terminal. Cost for QB
fuselage and finish kit was about $1100 to AZ and additional $180 to get an
automotive tilt bed truck to pick up there and deliver to home. Unloading
large heavy crates is impossible from standard trailers without fork lift.
Using the tilt bed we were able to tilt the bed and slide the boxes to 1000#
refrig dollies and move into the garage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> PS: Regarding my $1500 shipping....
>
> I had my crates shipped and specified to ship only to the local
> terminal....no home delivery. That saves a bunch of money too.
> You just have to make sure you get it off their dock within
> a day of having it show up. (make sure you pre-ask this question
> of your local terminal)
>
> So, I would have paid more if I had them delivered all the way.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>> Sounds right. Mine last week was $745 to a business address in Texas.
>> Residential is always about $50-$100 more. Quite the screw job these
>> freight companies have going. It had a $120 fuel surcharge on it too.
>> This is the first time Van's shipped to me via Roadway. The other times
>> it was ABF and much cheaper but then again the fuse crate is huge to
>> accommodate that canopy.
>> Michael Sausen
>> -10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *steve
>> dinieri
>> *Sent:* Thursday, December 15, 2005 3:57 PM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
>>
>> i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered in
>> november. (there must have been a screw up in processing) but it seems
>> much higher than i've paid for any other crate from vans in the past.
>> What have you guys experienced as far as costs go??? they're trying to
>> collect 890 bucks and telling me thats with vans discount. i know vans
>> has a 60% discount with roadway express, which means the real retail
>> price should be 1500 bucks or so. what say ye'?????(btw..destination was
>> niagara falls,NY)
>> steve dinieri
>> n221rv
>> n231rv
>
>
> generous support!
>
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Did I ruin my skin??? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike@cleavelandtool.com>
I am so sorry to the rest of the list I meant for this to go directly to
Bill, but forgot to change the address. How embarrassing, sorry...
Mike
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen -
Work
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Lauritsen - Work"
<mike@cleavelandtool.com>
Bill,
I am sorry that happened to your skin. It really shows how good tools will
make or break the finish of an aircraft. I will give you our edge forming
tool and make sure you understand how to use it in exchange for a "customer
testimonial" the old skin, the old tool, and permission to use your photos.
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=EF60
Thanks,
Mike
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I think you will regret not getting new skins. Even if the fix works
out you will always know about any imperfection. Like another poster
said, in the grand scheme of things the new skins are not that expensive.
I like Cleaveland's edge forming tool
<http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/products.asp?dept=56>. It is
not cheep at $39, but it is a quality tool that works well.
Larry Rosen
N205EN (reserved)
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Garmin GTX-327 pricing |
Anyone know offhand what you can get a Garmin GTX-327 transponder for new or used?
I have a chance to pick up a used for $1100 that is yellow tagged but I believe
you can get a brand new one of about $1300.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
do not archive
Message 41
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| Subject: | Garmin GTX-327 pricing |
Stark sells them. Good price, but I can not remember what exactly it was.
Rene' Felker
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RV10-List: Garmin GTX-327 pricing
Anyone know offhand what you can get a Garmin GTX-327 transponder for new or
used? I have a chance to pick up a used for $1100 that is yellow tagged but
I believe you can get a brand new one of about $1300.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
do not archive
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GTX-327 pricing |
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
To: rv-list@matronics.com ; rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 3:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Garmin GTX-327 pricing
Anyone know offhand what you can get a Garmin GTX-327 transponder for new or
used? I have a chance to pick up a used for $1100 that is yellow tagged but I
believe you can get a brand new one of about $1300.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
do not archive
Message 43
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|
The shipment was classified as containing plastic. According to trucking
companies, that raises the price.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
From: steve dinieri [mailto:capsteve@adelphia.net]
Subject: Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered in
november. (there must have been a screw up in processing) but it seems
much higher than i've paid for any other crate from vans in the past.
What have you guys experienced as far as costs go??? they're trying to
collect 890 bucks and telling me thats with vans discount. i know vans
has a 60% discount with roadway express, which means the real retail
price should be 1500 bucks or so. what say ye'?????(btw..destination was
niagara falls,NY)
steve dinieri
n221rv
n231rv
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GTX-327 pricing |
Yep try http://www.starkavionics.com/products.htm I've seen used on ebay go for as much or more than starks avionics.
----- Original Message -----
From: Rene Felker
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 5:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Garmin GTX-327 pricing
Stark sells them. Good price, but I can not remember what exactly it was.
Rene' Felker
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 3:59 PM
To: rv-list@matronics.com; rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Garmin GTX-327 pricing
Anyone know offhand what you can get a Garmin GTX-327 transponder for new or
used? I have a chance to pick up a used for $1100 that is yellow tagged but I
believe you can get a brand new one of about $1300.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
do not archive
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GTX-327 pricing |
Just checked Stark here's they're reply:
Gtx-327 $1420 + $70 prte-wire. Add $17 shipping.
Wire lengths needed: Power, ground, encoder cable and encoder model.
----- Original Message -----
From: Rene Felker
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 5:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Garmin GTX-327 pricing
Stark sells them. Good price, but I can not remember what exactly it was.
Rene' Felker
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 3:59 PM
To: rv-list@matronics.com; rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Garmin GTX-327 pricing
Anyone know offhand what you can get a Garmin GTX-327 transponder for new or
used? I have a chance to pick up a used for $1100 that is yellow tagged but I
believe you can get a brand new one of about $1300.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
do not archive
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
Thanks for sending that question!!! I just finished the VS and
learned a lot from all the replies to your question. I am sure you helped many
builders.
Steve
Port St. Lucie, FL
772-475-5556
Sent from my Treo 600
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GTX-327 pricing |
Try American Avionics, I bought an SL30 and G327 at OSH for a total of $4250. If
I recall correctly, the SL30 price was 2950, leaving $1300 for the G327.
----- Original Message -----
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
To: rv-list@matronics.com ; rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 3:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Garmin GTX-327 pricing
Anyone know offhand what you can get a Garmin GTX-327 transponder for new or
used? I have a chance to pick up a used for $1100 that is yellow tagged but I
believe you can get a brand new one of about $1300.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
do not archive
Message 48
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|
spamd4.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
* -2.6 BAYES_00 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 0 to 1%
| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
I bought the kit from a guy who already had the VS and rudder done. That's
why everybody's getting all these "beginner" questions from me and I'm
already on my elevators. I built the HS but there were no edges to bend on
it.
As for the skin, I went to a guy who is working on his 9th RV today and he
said it will work fine. The bends were not as bad as the picture looked.
I also took the remaining 3 skins along and got a lesson on edge rolling.
It's much easier with the palm-type roller with 2 nylon wheels than the long
handled roller I had. I rolled all 3 of them and they all turned out fine.
Thanks for all the help,
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Case" <pioneer@choiceonemail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bruce Case" <pioneer@choiceonemail.com>
>
> Bill,
>
> Not sure what tool you are using, but if you use the Avery tool and gently
> move along the edge in repeated passes you will end up with a nice small
> bend in the skins. Did your rudder turn out OK as that is the same
> process?
>
> Bruce Case
>
>
> generous support!
>
>
>
Message 49
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| Subject: | PS Engineering 8000 Audio panel for sale |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hey folks,
I am just about to install my PS 8000 audio panel, which was displayed
at OSH with my panelt but has never had power applied or a connector
plugged into it. PS engineering just came out with their PS 8000B,
which basically just adds a few control function smart keys to
the 8000, plus an input jack to the front.
Being a gadget guy, I guess I'd be one of those types who'd
jump at something new like that. So, if anyone wants my
original PS8000 for $100 less than I paid for it, I'd sell
it and get the new B model. My new mounting tray and connector
kit and everything would be yours. I'd just swap the unit
itself, and the manuals. I've not filled in any registration
paperwork either.
Email me offline if you're interested.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GTX-327 pricing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
I checked with Starks Avionics and this is what I
found:
GNS-430 $5855 + $250 pre-wire. Add $20 shipping
GMA-340 $1140 + $200 pre-wire. Add $20 shipping
GTX-327 $1420 + $70 prte-wire. Add $17 shipping
GNS-530 $9,475 + $250 pre-wire. Add $30 shipping
GTX-330 $3170 + $120 pre-wire. Add $25 shipping
These prices are better than Van's prices (below):
GNS-430 $6750
GMA-340 $1485
GTX-327 $1655
GNS-530 $10695
GTX-330 $3395
~ a $2700 savings.
Thanks for sending the link. I'm not close to ordering
yet, but for those that are I wonder if a bulk
purchase could be negotiated? Can anyone find better
prices?
Eric
--- David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
> Try American Avionics, I bought an SL30 and G327 at
> OSH for a total of $4250. If I recall correctly, the
> SL30 price was 2950, leaving $1300 for the G327.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
> To: rv-list@matronics.com ;
> rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 3:59 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Garmin GTX-327 pricing
>
>
> Anyone know offhand what you can get a Garmin
> GTX-327 transponder for new or used? I have a
> chance to pick up a used for $1100 that is yellow
> tagged but I believe you can get a brand new one of
> about $1300.
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
> do not archive
Message 51
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| Subject: | Did I ruin my skin??? |
Bill,
I know you have received a ton of responses, but I too would recommend
going ahead with a new skin. You could probably make the other one work,
but the RV-10 is a great machine and I suspect you would regret the cosmetic
flaws down the road and months from now the minor setback will have been
forgotten. One thing I did not see in the other posts is that I recommend
rolling the edge prior to dimpling if at all possible. Then you don't have
to worry about the size of the rollers as Hugo mentioned and life is much
simpler. Can't say I always followed that advice, just wish I had.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Here's the last set of pictures I'll post of this. I clecoed the skin to
the AEX wedge and it flattened most of it out. However, as you can see in
the pics there's still some waviness in the middle. Is it possible to get
this out?? Another question is, if I decide to keep this skin does it need
further edge rolling (more would probably make it worse unless I could just
use the seamers and put a super small "bend" in it)? Vans mentioned gluing
it to the wedge. How would that affect it??
Now, I promise to lay this to rest. I'll wait for a few replies then
probably order the new skin!!!!!
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight and it doesn't
look very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge rolling process yet
in my building. Anyway, I didn't apply much pressure at all and the first
skin, after a single pass, turned out wavy. Check out the picture and let
me know what you think. Tomorrow I'll try clecoing it to the trailing edge
wedge and see how it looks.
Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm wondering how
big the gap would actually be if I just didn't worry about rolling the edges
on the elevator skins??? Just curious.
Bill
Message 52
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Shipping on our fuse to FL in October of '04 was $903, and to a business
address. You can probably save something by picking it up at the dock. It
is a really big box, even though it doesn't weight that much. I just got a
quote, however, to ship the same crate to Ecuador, South America by air
(including trucking to Miami, FL) and the price was around $1,320. Would
that be $903 for trucking and $417 for air, I think not. Something is not
right with Van's shipping company. It is possible to get quotes, I imagine,
from other shippers and have them pick it up at Van's. If anybody is
interested in being the first, please let us know how much you can save. I
imagine Van's would go for this. In fact, you could even just get quotes
based on the weight, size and contents and compare them. Better yet, get a
quote from the same shipping company and see what the real discount is. If
Van's gets a 60% discount, then they are getting that off the "listed
price", which nobody probably ever pays. Maybe they give the average Joe a
30% discount and then truly give Van's only a 30% discount off what anybody
would pay.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: shipping costs
Sounds right. Mine last week was $745 to a business address in Texas.
Residential is always about $50-$100 more. Quite the screw job these
freight companies have going. It had a $120 fuel surcharge on it too. This
is the first time Van's shipped to me via Roadway. The other times it was
ABF and much cheaper but then again the fuse crate is huge to accommodate
that canopy.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve dinieri
Subject: Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered in
november. (there must have been a screw up in processing) but it seems much
higher than i've paid for any other crate from vans in the past. What have
you guys experienced as far as costs go??? they're trying to collect 890
bucks and telling me thats with vans discount. i know vans has a 60%
discount with roadway express, which means the real retail price should be
1500 bucks or so. what say ye'?????(btw..destination was niagara falls,NY)
steve dinieri
n221rv
n231rv
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: shipping costs |
The rate is also based on the classification or category of the contents of the
shipment. It's different between being aircraft parts or assemblies or materials
(ie. sheet aluminum). I found this out getting my own quotes when considering
having my QB wings and fuse delivered to Roanoke, VA. At first I got a
very low quote (sorry, don't have it anymore) and I inquired about the difference.
That's when I found out about the category rating. Originally, I only gave
the size and weight of the crates to a person that was not familiar with the
origination address (Van's). When I called back, the person, who knew Van's
Aircraft, asked me about the contents and informed me about the change in rate.
I guess it may have to do with insurance or the value of the cargo (if it's
expensive, you can afford to pay more?).
I ended up saving money by using Tony Partain (Partain Transport Company) to deliver
without Van's crating them.
John Lenhardt
#40262
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 10:34 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: shipping costs
Shipping on our fuse to FL in October of '04 was $903, and to a business address.
You can probably save something by picking it up at the dock. It is a really
big box, even though it doesn't weight that much. I just got a quote, however,
to ship the same crate to Ecuador, South America by air (including trucking
to Miami, FL) and the price was around $1,320. Would that be $903 for trucking
and $417 for air, I think not. Something is not right with Van's shipping
company. It is possible to get quotes, I imagine, from other shippers and
have them pick it up at Van's. If anybody is interested in being the first,
please let us know how much you can save. I imagine Van's would go for this.
In fact, you could even just get quotes based on the weight, size and contents
and compare them. Better yet, get a quote from the same shipping company and
see what the real discount is. If Van's gets a 60% discount, then they are
getting that off the "listed price", which nobody probably ever pays. Maybe
they give the average Joe a 30% discount and then truly give Van's only a 30%
discount off what anybody would pay.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC, please
call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me, please call
me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has voicemail
that will get to me in Ecuador.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 5:29 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: shipping costs
Sounds right. Mine last week was $745 to a business address in Texas. Residential
is always about $50-$100 more. Quite the screw job these freight companies
have going. It had a $120 fuel surcharge on it too. This is the first time
Van's shipped to me via Roadway. The other times it was ABF and much cheaper
but then again the fuse crate is huge to accommodate that canopy.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve dinieri
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 3:57 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered in november.
(there must have been a screw up in processing) but it seems much higher
than i've paid for any other crate from vans in the past. What have you guys experienced
as far as costs go??? they're trying to collect 890 bucks and telling
me thats with vans discount. i know vans has a 60% discount with roadway
express, which means the real retail price should be 1500 bucks or so. what say
ye'?????(btw..destination was niagara falls,NY)
steve dinieri
n221rv
n231rv
Message 54
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Using Tony Partain will be my method, too. I won't know anything for sure
until about February but I'll try to remember to post the Partain cost of
trucking my crateless QB wings and fuse to Enterprise, AL.
Rob Wright
#392
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Lenhardt
Subject: Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
The rate is also based on the classification or category of the contents of
the shipment. It's different between being aircraft parts or assemblies or
materials (ie. sheet aluminum). I found this out getting my own quotes when
considering having my QB wings and fuse delivered to Roanoke, VA. At first
I got a very low quote (sorry, don't have it anymore) and I inquired about
the difference. That's when I found out about the category rating.
Originally, I only gave the size and weight of the crates to a person that
was not familiar with the origination address (Van's). When I called back,
the person, who knew Van's Aircraft, asked me about the contents and
informed me about the change in rate. I guess it may have to do with
insurance or the value of the cargo (if it's expensive, you can afford to
pay more?).
I ended up saving money by using Tony Partain (Partain Transport Company) to
deliver without Van's crating them.
John Lenhardt
#40262
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: shipping costs
Shipping on our fuse to FL in October of '04 was $903, and to a business
address. You can probably save something by picking it up at the dock. It
is a really big box, even though it doesn't weight that much. I just got a
quote, however, to ship the same crate to Ecuador, South America by air
(including trucking to Miami, FL) and the price was around $1,320. Would
that be $903 for trucking and $417 for air, I think not. Something is not
right with Van's shipping company. It is possible to get quotes, I imagine,
from other shippers and have them pick it up at Van's. If anybody is
interested in being the first, please let us know how much you can save. I
imagine Van's would go for this. In fact, you could even just get quotes
based on the weight, size and contents and compare them. Better yet, get a
quote from the same shipping company and see what the real discount is. If
Van's gets a 60% discount, then they are getting that off the "listed
price", which nobody probably ever pays. Maybe they give the average Joe a
30% discount and then truly give Van's only a 30% discount off what anybody
would pay.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: shipping costs
Sounds right. Mine last week was $745 to a business address in Texas.
Residential is always about $50-$100 more. Quite the screw job these
freight companies have going. It had a $120 fuel surcharge on it too. This
is the first time Van's shipped to me via Roadway. The other times it was
ABF and much cheaper but then again the fuse crate is huge to accommodate
that canopy.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve dinieri
Subject: Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered in
november. (there must have been a screw up in processing) but it seems much
higher than i've paid for any other crate from vans in the past. What have
you guys experienced as far as costs go??? they're trying to collect 890
bucks and telling me thats with vans discount. i know vans has a 60%
discount with roadway express, which means the real retail price should be
1500 bucks or so. what say ye'?????(btw..destination was niagara falls,NY)
steve dinieri
n221rv
n231rv
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