Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:37 AM - Re: Allergy anyone? (RVFOURME@aol.com)
2. 05:09 AM - Re: Allergy anyone? (Ken Peck)
3. 05:24 AM - Re: Allergy anyone? (Phillips, Jack)
4. 05:37 AM - Fuel Tank Question (Kent Forsythe)
5. 05:52 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Question (Sam Marlow)
6. 05:55 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Question (Deems Davis)
7. 06:03 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Question (Jim Wade)
8. 06:35 AM - Re: Allergy anyone? (Rick)
9. 07:04 AM - Re: Allergy anyone? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
10. 07:04 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Question (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
11. 07:20 AM - FW: windscreens on the RV-10 (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
12. 08:09 AM - Re: Allergy anyone? (Rick)
13. 09:49 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Question (Jim Wade)
14. 10:25 AM - Re: Allergy anyone? (Eric Panning)
15. 10:29 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Question (Rene Felker)
16. 10:52 AM - Thank You and Merry Christmas (Deems Davis)
17. 11:27 AM - Re: Thank You and Merry Christmas (Rick)
18. 11:29 AM - Missing Fuel Line from Servo to Spider. (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
19. 11:46 AM - Re: Missing Fuel Line from Servo to Spider. (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
20. 12:21 PM - Re: Missing Fuel Line from Servo to Spider. (Tim Olson)
21. 01:59 PM - Re: Allergy anyone? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
22. 02:37 PM - Re: Allergy anyone? (John Dunne)
23. 03:22 PM - Re: Allergy anyone? (JTORTHO@aol.com)
24. 03:36 PM - Proseal over primer (Bill and Tami Britton)
25. 04:02 PM - Re: Proseal over primer (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
26. 04:29 PM - Re: Proseal over primer (Deems Davis)
27. 05:07 PM - Re: Allergy anyone? (Mani Ravee)
28. 05:09 PM - Re: Allergy anyone? (Mani Ravee)
29. 05:12 PM - Re: Allergy anyone? (Mani Ravee)
30. 05:18 PM - Re: Allergy anyone? (Mani Ravee)
31. 06:32 PM - Re: Allergy anyone? (Dick Gurley)
32. 06:33 PM - Re: Allergy anyone? (Eric Panning)
33. 07:15 PM - Re: Allergy anyone? (John W. Cox)
34. 07:16 PM - Re: Proseal over primer (Chris , Susie McGough)
35. 09:10 PM - Re: Proseal over primer (Bill and Tami Britton)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Allergy anyone? |
Hi All: From my past experience, the reaction is very likely from the MEK.
Years ago, I built a fabric aircraft, and in the process of doing the
fabric I used large amounts of MEK in an enclosed garage without proper
ventilation or respirator. After a week of exposure ,my eyes were swollen shut
and I
had no idea why. Of course I couldn't work on the project due to my eyes
and after a few days the condition improved. Still dumb as to the cause of
the eye problem, I proceeded to begin work on the fabric again. This time
the moment I inhaled a whiff of vapor from the MEK the reaction from my eyes
was so immediate I knew instinctively what the problem had been all
along...............and to this day (25 yrs later) if I get a lung full of MEK
vapors,
my eyes instantly become scratchy and puffy feeling. Guys an gals: treat
these chemicals very seriously !!!!
regards Craig Ponnequin RV-4, RV-4, N3-PUP
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Allergy anyone? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ken Peck" <kenbpeck@comcast.net>
Probably obvious, but have you tried some moisturizing lotion like Vaseline
Intensive care? I used to have problems w/ my hands itching after working
in solvents during the day at work, because it dried out my skin.
Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
>
> I just got done with spraying AKZO on some parts. Its been an hour since
> and I have intense itching in both my hands, especially the palms.
> Washed, and washed again. feel my hands swelling up. May take some
> prednisone right away.
> Has anyone ever had something like this happen? The only thing I
> remember doing wrong was to "rinse my hands with MEK". May be the
> culprit. Oh well, if I die tonight, there will be someone "giving away"
> a 10.
>
> Mani Ravee, MD.
> Sent with Wireless Sync from Verizon Wireless on a Treo 650.
>
>
>
Message 3
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
"Invisible Gloves" (sold by Aicraft Spruce & Specialty) are commonly
used in aircraft fabric covering. The PolyFiber process uses a number
of MEK based chemicals and PolyFiber recommends "Invisible Gloves".
This is a lotion-like pomade that is rubbed over the hands and allowed
to dry. It is impervious to MEK and most other solvents, but washes off
with water. Good stuff. Look in the covering supplies section of the
AS&S catalog.
Jack Phillips
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Peck
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ken Peck" <kenbpeck@comcast.net>
Probably obvious, but have you tried some moisturizing lotion like
Vaseline
Intensive care? I used to have problems w/ my hands itching after
working
in solvents during the day at work, because it dried out my skin.
Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee"
<maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
>
> I just got done with spraying AKZO on some parts. Its been an hour
since
> and I have intense itching in both my hands, especially the palms.
> Washed, and washed again. feel my hands swelling up. May take some
> prednisone right away.
> Has anyone ever had something like this happen? The only thing I
> remember doing wrong was to "rinse my hands with MEK". May be the
> culprit. Oh well, if I die tonight, there will be someone "giving
away"
> a 10.
>
> Mani Ravee, MD.
> Sent with Wireless Sync from Verizon Wireless on a Treo 650.
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Fuel Tank Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
I am in the process of preparing all parts for the fuel tanks. Am I correct in
assuming that there is no prep work to do to the inside of the tank? The inside
stays bare aluminum/alclad? (and tank sealant of course anywhere that parts/rivets
are joined)
Just a sanity check!!
Thanks,
Kent Forsythe
40338
Wings
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Question |
If you want real fuel gauges, NOW's the time to install the capacitor
plates. It's to late if you finish the tank!
Kent Forsythe wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
>
>I am in the process of preparing all parts for the fuel tanks. Am I correct in
assuming that there is no prep work to do to the inside of the tank? The inside
stays bare aluminum/alclad? (and tank sealant of course anywhere that parts/rivets
are joined)
>
>Just a sanity check!!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kent Forsythe
>40338
>Wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Yup it stays mostly bare, however you do want to scotchbrite/scuff all
of the areas where you will be applying ProSeal.
Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/
Kent Forsythe wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
>
>I am in the process of preparing all parts for the fuel tanks. Am I correct in
assuming that there is no prep work to do to the inside of the tank? The inside
stays bare aluminum/alclad? (and tank sealant of course anywhere that parts/rivets
are joined)
>
>Just a sanity check!!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kent Forsythe
>40338
>Wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Question |
NO PAINT INSIDE!!! The plans state that. Don't scuff except where you
join parts. It was the worst job we have done yet, but turned out well. Buy
lots and lots of gloves!!!
Jim & Julie
40383
-------Original Message-------
From: Kent Forsythe
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Question
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
I am in the process of preparing all parts for the fuel tanks. Am I correct
in assuming that there is no prep work to do to the inside of the tank? The
inside stays bare aluminum/alclad? (and tank sealant of course anywhere
that parts/rivets are joined)
Just a sanity check!!
Thanks,
Kent Forsythe
40338
Wings
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Allergy anyone? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Mani,
I see your an MD so I assume your not allergic to latex gloves? Were you wearing
gloves? Just my first thought when you mentioned itching of the hands. I have
heard of reactions with some gloves but not others.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Message 9
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Latex does squat against MEK. Invisible gloves without anything else is your best
bet lacking butyl gloves which are hard to find. You are better off not wearing
any gloves without one of those two items. Gloves that are permeable to
MEK will let it in and keep it in contact with your skin (hot hand or other
sensation) where no gloves will at least let it evaporate off. The big problem
is the vapors but submersing your hands in the stuff isn't much better (i.e.:
permeable gloves).
Michael
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Mani,
I see your an MD so I assume your not allergic to latex gloves? Were you wearing
gloves? Just my first thought when you mentioned itching of the hands. I have
heard of reactions with some gloves but not others.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Message 10
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| Subject: | Fuel Tank Question |
I also strongly recommend picking up a used SEMCO gun on eBay. It would have taken
me 3 times longer, probably twice the amount of proseal, and a whole lot
more aggravation without it. This is one tool that I think you will have a hard
time finding someone to say it was a waste of money.
Also, if you have any remote thoughts of a different engine than the stock Lyc
IO-540, now is the time to add fuel return bulkheads. It will cost you maybe
$10 in materials and an extra 15 minutes. All you have to do is cap it off if
you don't need it. It will be a serious pain in the arse to add later.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Question
NO PAINT INSIDE!!! The plans state that. Don't scuff except where you join parts.
It was the worst job we have done yet, but turned out well. Buy lots and
lots of gloves!!!
Jim & Julie
40383
-------Original Message-------
From: Kent Forsythe <mailto:matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Question
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
I am in the process of preparing all parts for the fuel tanks. Am I correct in
assuming that there is no prep work to do to the inside of the tank? The inside
stays bare aluminum/alclad? (and tank sealant of course anywhere that parts/rivets
are joined)
Just a sanity check!!
Thanks,
Kent Forsythe
40338
Wings
=09
Message 11
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| Subject: | FW: windscreens on the RV-10 |
Thought some of you may be interested in this. I talked to Becky and she sent
me a copy of a fax (barely readable) but it looks like our windscreens block
about 70%-80% of UVA.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: Daryl Sahnow [mailto:daryls@vansaircraft.com]
Subject: Re: windscreens on the RV-10
Hello Michael:
Our canopies are 76% light transmissable,I believe this is as dark
as CERTIFIED AIRCRAFT are allowed! There is some UV protection.how much??? Our
supplier Airplane Plastics,may be able to give a little more info on UV. Contact
Becky 937-669-2677.
Best Regards Daryl
Forwarded by: "Support" <support>
Forwarded to: daryls
Date forwarded: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 07:08:02 -0800
Subject: windscreens on the RV-10
Date sent: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 16:40:11 -0600
I see the windscreens that arrived with my fuselage are slightly tinted.
What is this tinting rated at for solar transmission numbers? Also does it block
UV at all?
Thanks,
Michael Sausen #40352
Message 12
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DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
Message 13
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| Subject: | Fuel Tank Question |
I used cheap cake decorating clear plastic funnels from Spruce. Worked great
cut end the size you want, throw away when finished. No waste at all.
Jim 383
-------Original Message-------
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Question
I also strongly recommend picking up a used SEMCO gun on eBay. It would
have taken me 3 times longer, probably twice the amount of proseal, and a
whole lot more aggravation without it. This is one tool that I think you
will have a hard time finding someone to say it was a waste of money.
Also, if you have any remote thoughts of a different engine than the stock
Lyc IO-540, now is the time to add fuel return bulkheads. It will cost you
maybe $10 in materials and an extra 15 minutes. All you have to do is cap
it off if you don't need it. It will be a serious pain in the arse to add
later.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Question
NO PAINT INSIDE!!! The plans state that. Don't scuff except where you
join parts. It was the worst job we have done yet, but turned out well. Buy
lots and lots of gloves!!!
Jim & Julie
40383
-------Original Message-------
From: Kent Forsythe
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Question
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
I am in the process of preparing all parts for the fuel tanks. Am I correct
in assuming that there is no prep work to do to the inside of the tank? The
inside stays bare aluminum/alclad? (and tank sealant of course anywhere
that parts/rivets are joined)
Just a sanity check!!
Thanks,
Kent Forsythe
40338
Wings
Message 14
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
I've used the blue nitrile gloves with good success.
Search around for a decent brand as thickness and
quality vary. Changing them often helps too. Usually
they will start to fail at the finger tips but I
change them prior to this. They start to "wrinkle"
before they fail. Autoparts stores carry them.
autopaint stores also have them. Make sure you get the
talc free versions.
At high solvent concentrations you can also get
transport into the eyes via absorption. A full face
mask is a good idea. However, for most operations you
should be using a minimal quantity of MEK. (Damp rag,
not soaking wet, etc). Make sure you toss used rags,
etc outside as soon as you are finished.
In winter, watch out for solvent vapors near pilot
lights, etc. Forced ventilation is nice but commons
fans are not explosion proof.... Anyone find a
solution?
Eric
--- Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net> wrote:
---------------------------------
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick Actually I was
thinking about the blue nitrile gloves which did work
for me when wearing two pair. (Latex was easier to
type :). FWIW, MEK is evaporating and being absorbed
by your skin...I like the post written by the doctor
about this today on this thread, he knows of what he
speaks....Remember safety....which is immediate harm
to yourself and health which is what happens to you
years down the road whan you have forgotten about
using MEK with bare hands. I posted some of the PEL's
and hazards about a year ago. Just protect yourself is
all I'm saying anymore.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
(Safety & Health by day, RV-10 builder by night)
Message 15
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| Subject: | Fuel Tank Question |
I used zip lock plastic bags from the Aviation depart of my wife's kitchen.
Cut the corner off to size, fill corner with pro-seal, roll the empty part
of the bag until you can squeeze the pro-seal out. Through the bag away
when you are done.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Question
I used cheap cake decorating clear plastic funnels from Spruce. Worked
great, cut end the size you want, throw away when finished. No waste at all.
Jim 383
-------Original Message-------
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) <mailto:rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Question
I also strongly recommend picking up a used SEMCO gun on eBay. It would
have taken me 3 times longer, probably twice the amount of proseal, and a
whole lot more aggravation without it. This is one tool that I think you
will have a hard time finding someone to say it was a waste of money.
Also, if you have any remote thoughts of a different engine than the stock
Lyc IO-540, now is the time to add fuel return bulkheads. It will cost you
maybe $10 in materials and an extra 15 minutes. All you have to do is cap
it off if you don't need it. It will be a serious pain in the arse to add
later.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Question
NO PAINT INSIDE!!! The plans state that. Don't scuff except where you
join parts. It was the worst job we have done yet, but turned out well. Buy
lots and lots of gloves!!!
Jim & Julie
40383
-------Original Message-------
From: Kent Forsythe <mailto:matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Question
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
I am in the process of preparing all parts for the fuel tanks. Am I correct
in assuming that there is no prep work to do to the inside of the tank? The
inside stays bare aluminum/alclad? (and tank sealant of course anywhere
that parts/rivets are joined)
Just a sanity check!!
Thanks,
Kent Forsythe
40338
Wings
Message 16
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| Subject: | Thank You and Merry Christmas |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I sent Matronic Matt my Thank You several weeks ago, he provides an environment
that enables this wonderful learning and discovery experience called 'Building
Your Own Airplane'. But the real value to me has been the information & content
that you have all provided. I can't begin to calculate how much I have learned
even/especially from the posts where I haven't joined the dialogue. And for
the inherent confidence factor knowing that there were dozens of you that had
boldly gone where I was headed. As I look back at the year and take stock,
I'm pleased at the progress I've made and want to Thank You all for contributing
to it and to wish you a -
>
>Merry Christmas!
>
>
>Deems Davis # 406
>Wings
>http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Thank You and Merry Christmas |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Deems,
Spoken like a true retired insurance executive!!! lol.....same to you!
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Missing Fuel Line from Servo to Spider. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com
Does anyone know what the part # is for the Fuel line that runs
from the front of the fuel servo to the spider on top of the engine. I
don't seem to have this line and it is not shown in any of the plans.
Is this not included in the FWF Kit? Am I missing something in the
plans?
Thanks
Ray Doerr 40250
Message 19
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| Subject: | Missing Fuel Line from Servo to Spider. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Ray,
That's actually part of the engine and not supplied by Van's. I just
happen to have my parts manual handy: Lycoming part number is
LW-12784-4-274 for IO-540-A1A5, C1B5, C4B5, C4C5 and D4A5 engines.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Subject: RV10-List: Missing Fuel Line from Servo to Spider.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
<Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com
Does anyone know what the part # is for the Fuel line that runs
from the front of the fuel servo to the spider on top of the engine. I
don't seem to have this line and it is not shown in any of the plans.
Is this not included in the FWF Kit? Am I missing something in the
plans?
Thanks
Ray Doerr 40250
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Missing Fuel Line from Servo to Spider. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Bob's right....I got mine with my engine.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Engine Hookups
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Ray,
>
> That's actually part of the engine and not supplied by Van's. I just
> happen to have my parts manual handy: Lycoming part number is
> LW-12784-4-274 for IO-540-A1A5, C1B5, C4B5, C4C5 and D4A5 engines.
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
> [NTK]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 1:29 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Missing Fuel Line from Servo to Spider.
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
> <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> CDNI Principal Engineer
> Sprint PCS
> 16020 West 113th Street
> Lenexa, KS 66219
> Mailstop KSLNXK0101
> (913) 859-1414 (Office)
> (913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
> (913) 859-1234 (Fax)
> Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com
>
> Does anyone know what the part # is for the Fuel line that runs
> from the front of the fuel servo to the spider on top of the engine. I
> don't seem to have this line and it is not shown in any of the plans.
> Is this not included in the FWF Kit? Am I missing something in the
> plans?
>
>
> Thanks
> Ray Doerr 40250
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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Nitrile is also permeable and marginally better than latex. I use both depending
on the chemical along with Neoprene gloves for yet others. The only thing
that is effective against MEK is butyl gloves.
Michael
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
Actually I was thinking about the blue nitrile gloves which did work for me when
wearing two pair. (Latex was easier to type :). FWIW, MEK is evaporating and
being absorbed by your skin...I like the post written by the doctor about this
today on this thread, he knows of what he speaks....Remember safety....which
is immediate harm to yourself and health which is what happens to you years down
the road whan you have forgotten about using MEK with bare hands. I posted
some of the PEL's and hazards about a year ago. Just protect yourself is all
I'm saying anymore.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
(Safety & Health by day, RV-10 builder by night)
Message 22
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Having used MEK for many years in the aviation business, we have found most
gloves fairly useless if not from straight protection then from hardening or
inflexibility of the glove itself. I must admit I haven't seen a reaction as
severe as some of those described but I will say this..it is extremely
important to identify a persons individual responses to certain chemicals.
The worst effects we find comes with the use in a confined space. (hangar
size spaces with the doors open..no real problem, at home in the garage.big
problem) At times the inhalation effects have been such that you may not
need an RV10 to fly!! :)
Do not archive
John
#40315
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
Nitrile is also permeable and marginally better than latex. I use both
depending on the chemical along with Neoprene gloves for yet others. The
only thing that is effective against MEK is butyl gloves.
Michael
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
Actually I was thinking about the blue nitrile gloves which did work for me
when wearing two pair. (Latex was easier to type :). FWIW, MEK is
evaporating and being absorbed by your skin...I like the post written by the
doctor about this today on this thread, he knows of what he
speaks....Remember safety....which is immediate harm to yourself and health
which is what happens to you years down the road whan you have forgotten
about using MEK with bare hands. I posted some of the PEL's and hazards
about a year ago. Just protect yourself is all I'm saying anymore.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
(Safety & Health by day, RV-10 builder by =========================much much
=========================-Matt ====================================
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Allergy anyone? |
Haven't done it yet, but when it gets a bit warmer will be doing fabric work.
I was planning on using two bilge vent fans I have here. They ought to be
blast proof. and should give enough airflow for a small paint tent.
Jim
Message 24
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spamd4.ruraltel.net
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| Subject: | Proseal over primer |
I just got done priming the interior of the elevator the other day and today I
realized that I primed over the trailing edge where you proseal the AEX wedge
to the skins. I also primed the wedge. Can the primer be left on and prosealed
over since the proseal is only to "glue"the trailing edges for riveting or
will I need to remove the primer somehow???
If I have to remove the primer how is the easiest way to go about it?? There will
only be a very small strip (approximately 3/4") that needs removed on each
skin. If I use MEK is there some kind of MEK proof masking I can use on the
borders to keep from damaging the rest of the primer???
Bill Britton
Riveting Elevators
Message 25
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| Subject: | Proseal over primer |
You'll be fine. Like you said, it's just there to hold things in place and the
stuff is very tenacious anyway. If the primer is stuck there the proseal will
only grab to it harder because it will probably soften into it a bit, depending
on the primer of course.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Proseal over primer
I just got done priming the interior of the elevator the other day and today I
realized that I primed over the trailing edge where you proseal the AEX wedge
to the skins. I also primed the wedge. Can the primer be left on and prosealed
over since the proseal is only to "glue"the trailing edges for riveting or
will I need to remove the primer somehow???
If I have to remove the primer how is the easiest way to go about it?? There will
only be a very small strip (approximately 3/4") that needs removed on each
skin. If I use MEK is there some kind of MEK proof masking I can use on the
borders to keep from damaging the rest of the primer???
Bill Britton
Riveting Elevators
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Proseal over primer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Bill, The Pro Seal isn't a structural element in the Elevator. Several
people (myself included) don't use it in the trailing edge assembly.
Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> I just got done priming the interior of the elevator the other day and
> today I realized that I primed over the trailing edge where you
> proseal the AEX wedge to the skins. I also primed the wedge. Can the
> primer be left on and prosealed over since the proseal is only to
> "glue"the trailing edges for riveting or will I need to remove the
> primer somehow???
>
> If I have to remove the primer how is the easiest way to go about
> it?? There will only be a very small strip (approximately 3/4") that
> needs removed on each skin. If I use MEK is there some kind of MEK
> proof masking I can use on the borders to keep from damaging the rest
> of the primer???
>
> Bill Britton
> Riveting Elevators
Message 27
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
Appreciate all the participation. As a medical provider myself, I want to
add my thoughts in posting this thread.
It is not always the first or the second exposure to an allergen that is
usually a problem. But sometimes it is a hypersensitivity type of reaction.
Your body learns and remembers the insult. Then when exposed to the same
insult, it suddenly sets forth a violent and profound attack against it,
releasing into the blood a host of chemicals which can be quite dramatic in
its presentation. An example is the "penicillin allergy". Sometimes it can
be life threatening.
In my case, I had taken precautions. I was just cleaning up my hands with a
wet rag - one moist with MEK. I would have probably done this very thing
many a time. But, this time bingo. So in future, I need to watch it and NOT
have contact with MEK. I understand that this could have well been the
nature of the beast itself - the adverse reaction to skin exposure to MEK.
But, remember I have been exposed to this stuff several times in the past
with not much of an issue. Hence the hypersensitivity theory. But then again
have not heard of anyone reacting so.
Regarding nitrile - we use it also in the hospital. But it is no match for
organic solvents like MEK or acetone. I have not tried butyl gloves - wonder
where one would find them.
Mani
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Mani,
I see your an MD so I assume your not allergic to latex gloves? Were you
wearing gloves? Just my first thought when you mentioned itching of the
hands. I have heard of reactions with some gloves but not others.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Message 28
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
Invisible gloves - have not used them but have to ask this of those who have
- between alodine and then priming over it, will it leave greasy or oily
prints and then areas of non adhesion of the primer?
Mani Ravee
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillips, Jack
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack"
<Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
"Invisible Gloves" (sold by Aicraft Spruce & Specialty) are commonly
used in aircraft fabric covering. The PolyFiber process uses a number
of MEK based chemicals and PolyFiber recommends "Invisible Gloves".
This is a lotion-like pomade that is rubbed over the hands and allowed
to dry. It is impervious to MEK and most other solvents, but washes off
with water. Good stuff. Look in the covering supplies section of the
AS&S catalog.
Jack Phillips
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Peck
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ken Peck" <kenbpeck@comcast.net>
Probably obvious, but have you tried some moisturizing lotion like
Vaseline
Intensive care? I used to have problems w/ my hands itching after
working
in solvents during the day at work, because it dried out my skin.
Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee"
<maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
>
> I just got done with spraying AKZO on some parts. Its been an hour
since
> and I have intense itching in both my hands, especially the palms.
> Washed, and washed again. feel my hands swelling up. May take some
> prednisone right away.
> Has anyone ever had something like this happen? The only thing I
> remember doing wrong was to "rinse my hands with MEK". May be the
> culprit. Oh well, if I die tonight, there will be someone "giving
away"
> a 10.
>
> Mani Ravee, MD.
> Sent with Wireless Sync from Verizon Wireless on a Treo 650.
>
>
>
Message 29
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
Oh no. this was not a case of skin drying up. I am glad I took the steroids.
I still HAD to, today.
:) side to all of this - the AKZO job looks perfect!!!
Mani
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Peck
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ken Peck" <kenbpeck@comcast.net>
Probably obvious, but have you tried some moisturizing lotion like Vaseline
Intensive care? I used to have problems w/ my hands itching after working
in solvents during the day at work, because it dried out my skin.
Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
>
> I just got done with spraying AKZO on some parts. Its been an hour since
> and I have intense itching in both my hands, especially the palms.
> Washed, and washed again. feel my hands swelling up. May take some
> prednisone right away.
> Has anyone ever had something like this happen? The only thing I
> remember doing wrong was to "rinse my hands with MEK". May be the
> culprit. Oh well, if I die tonight, there will be someone "giving away"
> a 10.
>
> Mani Ravee, MD.
> Sent with Wireless Sync from Verizon Wireless on a Treo 650.
>
>
>
Message 30
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I rest my case. There is a delayed hypersensitivity to MEK. Watch out!
Maybe Avery and Cleveland tools should start selling "epi-pens" (
epinephrine shots)
Mani Ravee
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RVFOURME@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
Hi All: From my past experience, the reaction is very likely from the MEK.
Years ago, I built a fabric aircraft, and in the process of doing the fabric
I used large amounts of MEK in an enclosed garage without proper
ventilation or respirator. After a week of exposure ,my eyes were swollen
shut and I had no idea why. Of course I couldn't work on the project
due to my eyes and after a few days the condition improved. Still dumb as
to the cause of the eye problem, I proceeded to begin work on the fabric
again. This time the moment I inhaled a whiff of vapor from the MEK the
reaction from my eyes was so immediate I knew instinctively what the problem
had been all along...............and to this day (25 yrs later) if I get a
lung full of MEK vapors, my eyes instantly become scratchy and puffy
feeling. Guys an gals: treat these chemicals very seriously !!!!
regards Craig Ponnequin RV-4, RV-4, N3-PUP
Message 31
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Mani -
Thanks for brining this to our attention. Who better to write of this than
an MD.? I for one will be more cautious!
Thanks again
Dick Gurley
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
I rest my case. There is a delayed hypersensitivity to MEK. Watch out!
Maybe Avery and Cleveland tools should start selling "epi-pens" (
epinephrine shots)
Mani Ravee
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RVFOURME@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
Hi All: From my past experience, the reaction is very likely from the MEK.
Years ago, I built a fabric aircraft, and in the process of doing the fabric
I used large amounts of MEK in an enclosed garage without proper
ventilation or respirator. After a week of exposure ,my eyes were swollen
shut and I had no idea why. Of course I couldn't work on the project
due to my eyes and after a few days the condition improved. Still dumb as
to the cause of the eye problem, I proceeded to begin work on the fabric
again. This time the moment I inhaled a whiff of vapor from the MEK the
reaction from my eyes was so immediate I knew instinctively what the problem
had been all along...............and to this day (25 yrs later) if I get a
lung full of MEK vapors, my eyes instantly become scratchy and puffy
feeling. Guys an gals: treat these chemicals very seriously !!!!
regards Craig Ponnequin RV-4, RV-4, N3-PUP
Message 32
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
Thanks for the tips on Nitrile gloves, I learned alot.
From the attached website you can see how little
protection they offer for MEK.
http://www.chemrest.com/domesticprep2/Glove%20All%20Data/8005%20Data.htm
also:
http://www.chemrest.com/Intermittent%20Data/IMethyl%20Ethyl%20Ketone.htm
Looks like for limited exposure viton over butyl would
be much better. Perhaps time to look for a safer
solvent?
Bilge blower was a good tip, looking at Detmar
ignition proof 12 V blowers - thanks!
Eric
Message 33
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Eric - thanks for a valuable RV-10 reference. I work occasionally with
MEK, Toluene and Acetone in the Air Carrier Industry and have not yet
(knock on Butyl) had a reaction like Manee. I have walked the fine line
with Isocyanide aircraft paint so I am becoming more aware of the stupid
things I did in my youth.
Each builder should be aware of the products (MSDS sheets) used in the
building process before inhaling or absorbing the consequences. Fresh
air and soap and water works can sure work miracles but some exposure is
non-reversible and cumulative.
John - KUAO
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Panning
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning
<ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Proseal over primer |
You do not need any proceal on the trailing edge.....it just ads weight!!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2005 10:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Proseal over primer
I just got done priming the interior of the elevator the other day and today
I realized that I primed over the trailing edge where you proseal the AEX wedge
to the skins. I also primed the wedge. Can the primer be left on and prosealed
over since the proseal is only to "glue"the trailing edges for riveting or
will I need to remove the primer somehow???
If I have to remove the primer how is the easiest way to go about it?? There
will only be a very small strip (approximately 3/4") that needs removed on each
skin. If I use MEK is there some kind of MEK proof masking I can use on the
borders to keep from damaging the rest of the primer???
Bill Britton
Riveting Elevators
Message 35
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|
spamd3.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_2 Message came from 24.225.10-29.x network
* 0.1 HTML_50_60 BODY: Message is 50% to 60% HTML
* 0.0 HTML_MESSAGE BODY: HTML included in message
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| Subject: | Re: Proseal over primer |
Thanks to all for the helpful hints. Unfortunately, due to a minor goof on my
part I have to glue the edges down on atleast one elevator. When edge rolling
a skin I stretched the metal just a bit and it got "wavy" on me. So, to eliminate,
or minimize the "pillowing" between rivets I will have to glue that skin
down. Will the primer be a problem??? From the responses of others it sounds
like it won't be. What do you think???
Thanks,
Bill Britton
Riveting on Elevators
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris , Susie McGough
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Proseal over primer
You do not need any proceal on the trailing edge.....it just ads weight!!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2005 10:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Proseal over primer
I just got done priming the interior of the elevator the other day and today
I realized that I primed over the trailing edge where you proseal the AEX wedge
to the skins. I also primed the wedge. Can the primer be left on and prosealed
over since the proseal is only to "glue"the trailing edges for riveting
or will I need to remove the primer somehow???
If I have to remove the primer how is the easiest way to go about it?? There
will only be a very small strip (approximately 3/4") that needs removed on
each skin. If I use MEK is there some kind of MEK proof masking I can use on
the borders to keep from damaging the rest of the primer???
Bill Britton
Riveting Elevators
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