Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:52 AM - Re: Allergy anyone? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
2. 05:52 AM - Re: Allergy anyone? (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto)
3. 06:18 AM - Re: Proseal over primer (Schroeder, Bob (Parts Clerk))
4. 06:57 AM - Re: For Sale? ()
5. 07:05 AM - Re: For Sale? (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
6. 07:46 AM - Re: Missing Fuel Line from Servo to Spider. (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
7. 08:56 AM - Re: For Sale? (linn walters)
8. 05:48 PM - T'was The Night Before Christmas - Sports Planes Style (Jim Pellien)
9. 07:00 PM - pre-oiler (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
10. 07:09 PM - Clecos anyone? (Jeff Dalton)
11. 07:28 PM - Re: pre-oiler (Tim Olson)
12. 07:30 PM - Re: pre-oiler (John W. Cox)
13. 08:38 PM - Re: pre-oiler (Jerry Grimmonpre)
14. 08:52 PM - Re: pre-oiler (Tim Olson)
15. 09:18 PM - Re: pre-oiler (John Lenhardt)
Message 1
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No, you should be fine. Just use normal precautions for making sure you don't
cross contaminate anything you want to paint or prime. The stuff is almost like
a waxy lotion and dries completely. Most of the fiberglass guys swear by
it and I have a tub of it I use also.
Aircraft Spuce's part number used to be #12-15800. The stuff is Invisible Gloves
#1211, made buy Sun Magic International in Acworth GA.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
Invisible gloves - have not used them but have to ask this of those who have
- between alodine and then priming over it, will it leave greasy or oily prints
and then areas of non adhesion of the primer?
Mani Ravee
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillips, Jack
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack"
<Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
"Invisible Gloves" (sold by Aicraft Spruce & Specialty) are commonly used in aircraft
fabric covering. The PolyFiber process uses a number of MEK based chemicals
and PolyFiber recommends "Invisible Gloves".
This is a lotion-like pomade that is rubbed over the hands and allowed to dry.
It is impervious to MEK and most other solvents, but washes off with water.
Good stuff. Look in the covering supplies section of the AS&S catalog.
Jack Phillips
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Peck
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ken Peck" <kenbpeck@comcast.net>
Probably obvious, but have you tried some moisturizing lotion like Vaseline Intensive
care? I used to have problems w/ my hands itching after working in solvents
during the day at work, because it dried out my skin.
Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee"
<maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
>
> I just got done with spraying AKZO on some parts. Its been an hour
since
> and I have intense itching in both my hands, especially the palms.
> Washed, and washed again. feel my hands swelling up. May take some
> prednisone right away.
> Has anyone ever had something like this happen? The only thing I
> remember doing wrong was to "rinse my hands with MEK". May be the
> culprit. Oh well, if I die tonight, there will be someone "giving
away"
> a 10.
>
> Mani Ravee, MD.
> Sent with Wireless Sync from Verizon Wireless on a Treo 650.
>
>
Message 2
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This really underscores something us "metal" guys never really talk about but
is very well known in the "plastics" camp. Everyone needs to be aware that you
could, at anytime and without warning, develop a sensitivity to any of these
chemicals, including the resins!
There have been many documented cases in which a LongEZ or other fiberglass,
or tube and rag builder was perfectly fine until one day when he hit his limit.
After that they couldn't be anywhere near the stuff without going into a full
blown allergy attack. Some so severe they required hospitalization.
There is no set amount for this, each person has a different tolerance level.
Just hope you never find yours.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
Appreciate all the participation. As a medical provider myself, I want to add my
thoughts in posting this thread.
It is not always the first or the second exposure to an allergen that is usually
a problem. But sometimes it is a hypersensitivity type of reaction.
Your body learns and remembers the insult. Then when exposed to the same insult,
it suddenly sets forth a violent and profound attack against it, releasing into
the blood a host of chemicals which can be quite dramatic in its presentation.
An example is the "penicillin allergy". Sometimes it can be life threatening.
In my case, I had taken precautions. I was just cleaning up my hands with a wet
rag - one moist with MEK. I would have probably done this very thing many a time.
But, this time bingo. So in future, I need to watch it and NOT have contact
with MEK. I understand that this could have well been the nature of the beast
itself - the adverse reaction to skin exposure to MEK.
But, remember I have been exposed to this stuff several times in the past with
not much of an issue. Hence the hypersensitivity theory. But then again have not
heard of anyone reacting so.
Regarding nitrile - we use it also in the hospital. But it is no match for organic
solvents like MEK or acetone. I have not tried butyl gloves - wonder where
one would find them.
Mani
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Allergy anyone?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Mani,
I see your an MD so I assume your not allergic to latex gloves? Were you wearing
gloves? Just my first thought when you mentioned itching of the hands. I have
heard of reactions with some gloves but not others.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Message 3
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| Subject: | Proseal over primer |
You have to remove the primer. I did the same thing on my rudder and it
separated and the glue has no tooth. That was when I decided to replace
the skins, so that it looked good when I got it all assembled. You can
lay some tape on the line that clears your glue area and either sand it
off by hand or you a dremel tool with an appropriate drum sander, just
be careful. You can get carried away real quick. That is if your
absolutely dead set on not replacing the skins. Again, in the grand
scheme of things those skins are pretty cheap to replace.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Proseal over primer
Thanks to all for the helpful hints. Unfortunately, due to a minor goof
on my part I have to glue the edges down on atleast one elevator. When
edge rolling a skin I stretched the metal just a bit and it got "wavy"
on me. So, to eliminate, or minimize the "pillowing" between rivets I
will have to glue that skin down. Will the primer be a problem??? From
the responses of others it sounds like it won't be. What do you
think???
Thanks,
Bill Britton
Riveting on Elevators
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris , Susie McGough <mailto:VHMUM@bigpond.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Proseal over primer
You do not need any proceal on the trailing edge.....it just ads
weight!!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton <mailto:william@gbta.net>
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2005 10:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Proseal over primer
I just got done priming the interior of the elevator the
other day and today I realized that I primed over the trailing edge
where you proseal the AEX wedge to the skins. I also primed the wedge.
Can the primer be left on and prosealed over since the proseal is only
to "glue"the trailing edges for riveting or will I need to remove the
primer somehow???
If I have to remove the primer how is the easiest way to
go about it?? There will only be a very small strip (approximately
3/4") that needs removed on each skin. If I use MEK is there some kind
of MEK proof masking I can use on the borders to keep from damaging the
rest of the primer???
Bill Britton
Riveting Elevators
Message 4
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Anyone have or know of a RV-10 kit for-sale?
Thank you and Merry Christmas
do not archive
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Message 5
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I hear that Van's has several kits for sale . . . : )
TDT
Do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Schawang,
Darrin
Subject: RE: RV10-List: For Sale?
Anyone have or know of a RV-10 kit for-sale?
Thank you and Merry Christmas
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Missing Fuel Line from Servo to Spider. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
Thanks guys. I guess I will have to call America's Aircraft and have
him send me one. They are really good about this small stuff.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Missing Fuel Line from Servo to Spider.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Ray,
That's actually part of the engine and not supplied by Van's. I just
happen to have my parts manual handy: Lycoming part number is
LW-12784-4-274 for IO-540-A1A5, C1B5, C4B5, C4C5 and D4A5 engines.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Subject: RV10-List: Missing Fuel Line from Servo to Spider.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
<Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com
Does anyone know what the part # is for the Fuel line that runs
from the front of the fuel servo to the spider on top of the engine. I
don't seem to have this line and it is not shown in any of the plans.
Is this not included in the FWF Kit? Am I missing something in the
plans?
Thanks
Ray Doerr 40250
Message 7
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Schawang, Darrin wrote:
> Anyone have or know of a RV-10 kit for-sale?
Van sells them!
Sorry, just couldn't resist!
Merry Christmas everyone!
Linn
do not archive
>
> Thank you and Merry Christmas
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | T'was The Night Before Christmas - Sports Planes Style |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
'Twas the night before Christmas, when all through the forum
not an EMAIL was posted, not even a note.
The stockings were hung by the laptop with care,
in hopes that Tom P. soon would be there.
The pilots were nestled all snug in their beds,
while visions of SLSA's danced in their heads.
The aircraft in their hangars, and I in my cap,
had just settled our brains for a long winter's nap.
When out on the tarmac there arose such a clatter,
I sprang from my desk to see what was the matter.
Away to the window I flew like a flash,
tore open the shutter, and threw up the sash.
The moon on the breast of the new-fallen snow
gave the lustre of midday to the tie-downs below,
when, what to my wondering eyes should appear,
but a Light Sport Aircraft and eight big EAA 'rs.
With a little old pilot, so lively and quick,
I knew in a moment it must be Tom P.
More rapid than eagles, his coursers they came,
and he whistled and shouted and called them by name:
"Now Rutan! Now Melville!
Now, Fossett and Boyer!
On, Lawrence! On, Heintz!
On, Van G and Sawyer!
To the end of the runway!
To the tie-down area
Now Shut Down ! Shut Down!
Shut Down All Engines"
As dry leaves that before the wild hurricane fly,
when they meet with an obstacle, mount to the sky
so up to the top of the FBO they flew,
with the sleigh full of flight toys, and Tom P. too.
And then, in a twinkling, I heard on the roof
the prancing and pawing of each little hoof.
As I drew in my head and was turning around,
down the chimney Tom P. came with a bound.
He was dressed all in fur, from his head to his foot,
and his clothes were all tarnished with ashes and soot.
A bundle of new FAA rules he had flung on his back,
and he looked like a peddler just opening his pack.
He spoke not a word, but went straight to his work,
and filled all the stockings, with SP and LSA Rulings.
And laying his finger aside of his nose,
and giving a nod, up the chimney he rose.
He sprang to his SLSA, completed his preflight,
And away he flew like the down of a thistle.
But I heard him exclaim, 'ere he flew out of sight,
"Happy Christmas to all, and to all a good night!"
(An Adaptation of the Classic Poem, "T'was the Night Before Christmas")
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to All
Jim Pellien
Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
The Mid-Atlantic Region of SportsPlanes.com
www.MASPL.com
703-313-4818
Message 9
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For what it's worth, I talked with Bart from Aerosport Power (where my new
IO-540 is coming from) about installing a pre-oiler.
Bart recommended to save your money on that.
He says the 540 engine oil pumps are one of the most reliable ever built (as
opposed to some other Lyc and Cont engines), so oil pump failure is remote
compared to other potential failure modes (if you were thinking of the pre-oiler
as a backup oil pump).
As for pre-oiling for starts, Bart advised that spending your money for a
good pre-heater is far better.
He said that the oil pump reaches full pressure in a couple of revolutions.
However, if the oil is cold (and thick), it doesn't flow well and that is
where you will get your damage.
My 2 cents.
Grumpy #40404
Message 10
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After a year of reading, lurking, and dreaming I'll be ordering the -10 tail kit
before the month is over.
All you advanced builders who may be finished with clecos - any interest in selling
some of them? Looking especially for the #40's.
Thanks!
Jeff
p.s. also looking for a pneumatic squeezer .....
"It is not the critic who counts: Not the man who points out how the strong man
stumbles or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit
belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust
and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly, who errs and comes up short again
and again ... who spends himself in a worthy cause; who, at the best, knows, in
the end, the triumph of high achievement, and who at worst, if he fails, at
least he fails while daring greatly."
Message 11
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Yeah, that pre-oiler discussion had me all worked up and ready
to spend some cash and time on one for a minute, because I do
believe they are a good thing (and still do). Stein though
was able to talk me out of it for basically the same reasons
you listed below. I bought a good Reiff pre-heater, that I'll
use many months of the year. He also reminded me that even if
I was lucky enough to make TBO with my engine, the chance that
an IO-540 is going to go far past TBO without at least some
top end work isn't all that great. So, by the time I get
to $2000 hours, I'll probably be ready to start thinking of
an overhaul anyway just for peace of mind if nothing else. The
things that the pre-oiler really saves are things like main bearings,
but you don't really hear much about main bearings being the
item that ended the service life of the engine.
I do still think they're a good idea, and getting one may be
something I do down the road. But now, I'm thinking my time
is better spent getting this thing in the air, and those
kinds of things can be nice add-ons later.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
> For what it's worth, I talked with Bart from Aerosport Power (where my
> new IO-540 is coming from) about installing a pre-oiler.
>
> Bart recommended to save your money on that.
>
> He says the 540 engine oil pumps are one of the most reliable ever built
> (as opposed to some other Lyc and Cont engines), so oil pump failure is
> remote compared to other potential failure modes (if you were thinking
> of the pre-oiler as a backup oil pump).
>
> As for pre-oiling for starts, Bart advised that spending your money for
> a good pre-heater is far better.
>
> He said that the oil pump reaches full pressure in a couple of
> revolutions. However, if the oil is cold (and thick), it doesn't flow
> well and that is where you will get your damage.
>
> My 2 cents.
>
> Grumpy #40404
Message 12
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Grumpy -
Larry Schlesinger, a Yak owner and MT prop dealer from Wisconsin would
confirm your information on value of Pre-heaters over Pre-oilers.
However, as the engine might sit for longer periods of time, then the
use of a pre-oiler will often reduce the oxidation damage of cranking
without proper lubricant on the exposed parts (cam lobes, lifter face
and cylinder walls). It's all about the fractions of a second with
abrasive action (without lubrication) that is the issue. Better flow,
quicker lubrication. 6 of one or half a dozen of the other.
Remember, engine rebuilders love the business of replacing worn parts
(as long as it happens after the warrantee expires). An oil pump can
only reach minimum operating pressure when the viscosity cooperates. If
you graphed the arrival of minimum pressure level and the fractions of a
second to reach Minimum, by the number of revolutions at idle -
throttle, I would bet it's more than just a couple of scuffs before
token lubrication. A flight school that flies multiple hours per day/
every day has been known to go hundreds of hours beyond TBO - then there
is the weekend warrior who flies reasonably often four months of the
year, then lets it set for over six months in a moist Oregon coastal
hangar that can't figure out why his engine(s) are only going 1/3 of
TBO.
For a real thrill, get your favorite IA to let you use his boroscope on
a cylinder that sits for months on end and view the significant
corrosion that forms so quickly. Just do it before using either a
Pre-Heater or Pre-Oiler. Long as we don't see it, I guess it won't
matter - Right?
Over the life of an engine TBO, just how many additional hours of use
will compensate for purchase/ install / and use of either a Pre-heater
or Pre-oiler? That is the question for RV builders.
John - $00.02
Do not Archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
GenGrumpy@aol.com
Subject: RV10-List: pre-oiler
For what it's worth, I talked with Bart from Aerosport Power (where my
new IO-540 is coming from) about installing a pre-oiler.
Bart recommended to save your money on that.
He says the 540 engine oil pumps are one of the most reliable ever built
(as opposed to some other Lyc and Cont engines), so oil pump failure is
remote compared to other potential failure modes (if you were thinking
of the pre-oiler as a backup oil pump).
As for pre-oiling for starts, Bart advised that spending your money for
a good pre-heater is far better.
He said that the oil pump reaches full pressure in a couple of
revolutions. However, if the oil is cold (and thick), it doesn't flow
well and that is where you will get your damage.
My 2 cents.
Grumpy #40404
Message 13
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My RV's 200HP Lyc is not installed yet. It's in a box made of 1" foil faced styrene
foam. I've rigged up two incandescent light bulbs (60w & 75w) with a house
thermostat, transformer and relay. This set-up heats the entire box to 80*F
and the volume of the box is larger than that of a cowled engine.
Wouldn't the heat of a couple light bulbs work after the engine is installed in
a hangared airplane? It seems this would act as a constant heat source for the
entire engine. If the heat could be directed up the cooling air exit it might
work. How hot do the oil sump heaters get and what is their watt rating?
Anybody out there in the Northern state have any experience along these lines?
My 2 cents ....
Jerry Grimmonpre'
RV8A
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: John W. Cox
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2005 9:30 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: pre-oiler
Grumpy -
Larry Schlesinger, a Yak owner and MT prop dealer from Wisconsin would confirm
your information on value of Pre-heaters over Pre-oilers. However, as the engine
might sit for longer periods of time, then the use of a pre-oiler will often
reduce the oxidation damage of cranking without proper lubricant on the exposed
parts (cam lobes, lifter face and cylinder walls). It's all about the
fractions of a second with abrasive action (without lubrication) that is the issue.
Better flow, quicker lubrication. 6 of one or half a dozen of the other.
Remember, engine rebuilders love the business of replacing worn parts (as long
as it happens after the warrantee expires). An oil pump can only reach minimum
operating pressure when the viscosity cooperates. If you graphed the arrival
of minimum pressure level and the fractions of a second to reach Minimum,
by the number of revolutions at idle - throttle, I would bet it's more than just
a couple of scuffs before token lubrication. A flight school that flies multiple
hours per day/ every day has been known to go hundreds of hours beyond
TBO - then there is the weekend warrior who flies reasonably often four months
of the year, then lets it set for over six months in a moist Oregon coastal hangar
that can't figure out why his engine(s) are only going 1/3 of TBO.
For a real thrill, get your favorite IA to let you use his boroscope on a cylinder
that sits for months on end and view the significant corrosion that forms
so quickly. Just do it before using either a Pre-Heater or Pre-Oiler. Long
as we don't see it, I guess it won't matter - Right?
Over the life of an engine TBO, just how many additional hours of use will compensate
for purchase/ install / and use of either a Pre-heater or Pre-oiler?
That is the question for RV builders.
John - $00.02
Do not Archive
Message 14
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sure, anything would help, but... You really want to heat the
sump so that it's warmer than the air, not heat the air and
hope the sump catches up. If you have the sump cooler than
the air, you'll get much more condensation, like having a cold
glass of water in the hot summer. You want that block to be
nice and warm. Preheat isn't all just about getting the oil
to thin out, but keeping the environmental effects down too.
My hanger gets nasty moist in the spring as the ground thaws.
The metal surfaces of the plane sometimes drip with moisture.
I plug my engines in all year round that the temp is less
than 40F. The engine block stays toasty warm all winter.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Jerry Grimmonpre wrote:
> My RV's 200HP Lyc is not installed yet. It's in a box made of 1" foil
> faced styrene foam. I've rigged up two incandescent light bulbs (60w &
> 75w) with a house thermostat, transformer and relay. This set-up heats
> the entire box to 80*F and the volume of the box is larger than that of
> a cowled engine.
>
> Wouldn't the heat of a couple light bulbs work after the engine is
> installed in a hangared airplane? It seems this would act as a constant
> heat source for the entire engine. If the heat could be directed up the
> cooling air exit it might work. How hot do the oil sump heaters get and
> what is their watt rating? Anybody out there in the Northern state have
> any experience along these lines?
> My 2 cents ....
> Jerry Grimmonpre'
> RV8A
> Do not archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* John W. Cox <mailto:johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 22, 2005 9:30 PM
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: pre-oiler
>
> Grumpy
>
>
>
> Larry Schlesinger, a Yak owner and MT prop dealer from Wisconsin
> would confirm your information on value of Pre-heaters over
> Pre-oilers. However, as the engine might sit for longer periods of
> time, then the use of a pre-oiler will often reduce the oxidation
> damage of cranking without proper lubricant on the exposed parts
> (cam lobes, lifter face and cylinder walls). Its all about the
> fractions of a second with abrasive action (without lubrication)
> that is the issue. Better flow, quicker lubrication. 6 of one or
> half a dozen of the other.
>
>
>
> Remember, engine rebuilders love the business of replacing worn
> parts (as long as it happens after the warrantee expires). An oil
> pump can only reach minimum operating pressure when the viscosity
> cooperates. If you graphed the arrival of minimum pressure level
> and the fractions of a second to reach Minimum, by the number of
> revolutions at idle throttle, I would bet its more than just a
> couple of scuffs before token lubrication. A flight school that
> flies multiple hours per day/ every day has been known to go
> hundreds of hours beyond TBO then there is the weekend warrior who
> flies reasonably often four months of the year, then lets it set for
> over six months in a moist Oregon coastal hangar that cant figure
> out why his engine(s) are only going 1/3 of TBO.
>
>
>
> For a real thrill, get your favorite IA to let you use his boroscope
> on a cylinder that sits for months on end and view the significant
> corrosion that forms so quickly. Just do it before using either a
> Pre-Heater or Pre-Oiler. Long as we dont see it, I guess it wont
> matter Right?
>
>
>
> Over the life of an engine TBO, just how many additional hours of
> use will compensate for purchase/ install / and use of either a
> Pre-heater or Pre-oiler? That is the question for RV builders.
>
>
>
> John - $00.02
>
> Do not Archive
>
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I've heard of pilots heating with light bulbs. One thing to be careful of when
using light bulbs is the potential fire hazard if bulb should break in the enclosed
cowl with any flammable sources like fuel vapors, grease, or oil. It may
be remote, but something to consider in application. Traditional sump heaters
and/or cylinder heaters don't have the ignition source.
Aircraft Spruce has a sump heater:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/ezheat.php
Here's the basic info:
This pad will heat 12 qts of oil from -40=B0 to +60=B0F in an hour while using
approximately 300 watts of electricity. The heater is 1/32" thick. which enables
the immediate heat transfer from heater to engine. The heaters are thermostatically
controlled, so leaving them plugged in overnight means the plane will
be ready to go in the morning. Normally, complete pre-heating takes only 3-5
hours for the entire engine to be nice and warm.
John Lenhardt
#40262
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Jerry Grimmonpre wrote:
> My RV's 200HP Lyc is not installed yet. It's in a box made of 1" foil
> faced styrene foam. I've rigged up two incandescent light bulbs (60w &
> 75w) with a house thermostat, transformer and relay. This set-up heats
> the entire box to 80*F and the volume of the box is larger than that of
> a cowled engine.
>
> Wouldn't the heat of a couple light bulbs work after the engine is
> installed in a hangared airplane? It seems this would act as a constant
> heat source for the entire engine. If the heat could be directed up the
> cooling air exit it might work. How hot do the oil sump heaters get and
> what is their watt rating? Anybody out there in the Northern state have
> any experience along these lines?
> My 2 cents ....
> Jerry Grimmonpre'
> RV8A
> Do not archive
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