Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:55 AM - Lights on VS and When to buy options (Ken Peck)
2. 04:07 AM - Re: Clecos anyone? (Ken Peck)
3. 06:29 AM - Re: lost messages (Chuck Jensen)
4. 07:21 AM - Re: Lights on VS and When to buy options (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
5. 08:58 AM - Re: Lights on VS and When to buy options (John Jessen)
6. 09:37 AM - DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA (Sean Stephens)
7. 10:28 AM - Re: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA (Tim Olson)
8. 10:43 AM - Re: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
9. 10:51 AM - Re: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA (Chris Johnston)
10. 11:02 AM - Re: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
11. 11:23 AM - Re: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA (Sean Stephens)
12. 11:24 AM - Re: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA (Sean Stephens)
13. 11:26 AM - Re: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA (Sean Stephens)
14. 11:36 AM - Re: Cost to paint RV10 (Condon, Philip M.)
15. 11:49 AM - Re: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
16. 12:21 PM - Fuel tank instructions, Tips, Hints (James Hein)
17. 01:52 PM - Re: Re: Cost to paint RV10 (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
18. 02:08 PM - Re: Lights on VS and When to buy options (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
19. 02:35 PM - Re: Fuel tank instructions, Tips, Hints (Rick)
20. 04:43 PM - Re: Actual performance of flying RV 10s (Randy DeBauw)
21. 06:49 PM - Re: Cost to paint RV10 (John W. Cox)
22. 06:56 PM - Mount for pitot (Chris)
23. 07:11 PM - Cost to paint RV10 [Edited] (Matt Dralle)
24. 07:35 PM - Re: Mount for pitot (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
25. 08:22 PM - AHARS (Sam Marlow)
26. 09:06 PM - Re: AHARS (Tim Olson)
27. 09:26 PM - Re: AHARS (David McNeill)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Lights on VS and When to buy options |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ken Peck" <kenbpeck@comcast.net>
I'm sure there is an archive that answers my questions, so if someone will
please point me to it, I'll go read through the archives....
Question #1: As an additional 'classy' touch, I thought I put a couple of
small lights in the HS pointing up at the VS - you know, kind of like they
do on commercial planes. Was thinking probably just a couple of leds. -
anyone done this, thought about it, have reasons why I can't / shouldn't?
Question #2: I'm close to finishing the HS, planning the -10 to do some
minimal IFR in the plane, so night lighting, collision avoidance, and
autopilot will be a necessity. Can anyone offer guidance about when in the
process I need to decide to buy the additional components that don't come in
the kit?
Thanks,
Ken
-10 HS riveting
Central FL
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Clecos anyone? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ken Peck" <kenbpeck@comcast.net>
Ditto - The used ones I got from Country Sidewalk seem to work about the
same as the new ones which I bought from Avery as well
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Rosen" <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Clecos anyone?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
> You can get used Cleco fasteners from Country Sidewalk. Look in their
> tool shed. Use <http://www.countrysidewalk.com> or
> <http://www.countrysidewalk.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=C&Category_Code=TSUTCL>
> The clecos are $0.25 each. But watch out for the shipping charges.
>
> I got some from them and they work fine. I also have some new ones from
> Avery.
>
> Larry
> <http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I would explain exactly what's happening, but of course, you can't read
my email. I can't tell if we're in a Catch 22 or a Gordian Knot.
Chuck
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Subject: RV10-List: lost messages
Any reason why I am no longer getting list emails?
do not archive
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Lights on VS and When to buy options |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Ken,
No comment about your first question. In terms of timing for purchasing
items, you can hold off on purchasing the actual lights, etc. until
you're finishing up the plane. Running the wire will potentially make
your life easier down the road. Some have run conduit through the wings
but there is reasonable access to run it through the stock snap bushings
after the wings are complete - it will take more time without conduit
however. I installed my wing wiring before closing them up and just
used the stock snap bushings. Running conduit below the baggage floor
and/or behind the right side baggage wall is a necessity. These panels
are riveted in place and you'll need to run wire for battery power,
contactor control, strobes, strobe power supply, position lights, etc
from the tailcone to the panel and/or wings. I'd also suggest a conduit
in the tailcone from the bay where the battery is to the aft bay.
You will have to install a mount for a heated pitot before closing up
the wing. Also, it's much easier to install the AP roll servo while the
bottom wing skin is off, but it can be done through the access panel
(for TruTrak, can't speak for others). This is really a trade off
between a 30 min job with the skin off and a couple hours (my guess)
with scraped knuckles and cussing if the skin is already on.
Here's a list of specific potential equipment with my thoughts:
Strobes/position lights: these mount on the bottom of the rudder and in
the wingtips - can be done anytime. Power supply is typically being
mounted in the tailcone, same bay as the battery.
Landing lights: Kit from Van's installs in the wingtips and can be done
anytime. Other options (Duckworks) install in the outboard leading edge
of a wing. It is my understanding that these can be installed after
completion but is easier before.
Antennas: typical mounting locations for navs are either in the wingtips
(Archer - I have one in each wingtip) or on the bottom aft end of the
tailcone. MB can also be in a wingtip (my installation) or on the
bottom of the fuselage. Comms on the bottom of the fuselage (mine are
below the rear seats). Transponder on the bottom of the fuselage (mine
is in the aft end of the bay with the battery box). Only areas that are
inaccessible after completion are below the rear seats and baggage
floor. In retrospect I'd probably mount my comms just forward of the
rear seats in the area below the tube that drives the flaps.
AP servos (TruTrak): Roll servo mounts in the wing - very clean install.
A stock bracket for the aileron bellcrank is replaced with one from TT
that includes mounting holes for the servo. As stated earlier - can be
done after wing closeout but is easier before. Pitch servo is attached
to aft part of the battery tray assembly with a bracket supplied by
Van's in the fuselage kit. It is possible to purchase the servos and
defer the actual AP decision since most TT models use the same servos.
This allows you to defer the majority of the expense (and specific model
decision).
Heated Pitot: You'll need a Gretz (or equivalent) mount. This needs to
be put in before the bottom wing skin is attached.
PSS Angle of Attack system: the pressure taps install in the leading
edge of an outboard wing bay. Easily installed after wing completion.
It is possible to purchase the system in two kits to get the pressure
taps and tubing early and defer the majority of the expense (and
specific model decision). I'd recommend this so that you can insure
that the conduit/snap bushing hole size is sufficiently large for the
tubing and various wires.
Hope this helps!
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Peck
Subject: RV10-List: Lights on VS and When to buy options
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ken Peck" <kenbpeck@comcast.net>
I'm sure there is an archive that answers my questions, so if someone
will
please point me to it, I'll go read through the archives....
Question #1: As an additional 'classy' touch, I thought I put a couple
of
small lights in the HS pointing up at the VS - you know, kind of like
they
do on commercial planes. Was thinking probably just a couple of leds.
-
anyone done this, thought about it, have reasons why I can't /
shouldn't?
Question #2: I'm close to finishing the HS, planning the -10 to do some
minimal IFR in the plane, so night lighting, collision avoidance, and
autopilot will be a necessity. Can anyone offer guidance about when in
the
process I need to decide to buy the additional components that don't
come in
the kit?
Thanks,
Ken
-10 HS riveting
Central FL
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Lights on VS and When to buy options |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Nice post, Bob.
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Lights on VS and When to buy options
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
--> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Ken,
No comment about your first question. In terms of timing for purchasing
items, you can hold off on purchasing the actual lights, etc. until you're
finishing up the plane. Running the wire will potentially make your life
easier down the road. Some have run conduit through the wings but there is
reasonable access to run it through the stock snap bushings after the wings
are complete - it will take more time without conduit however. I installed
my wing wiring before closing them up and just used the stock snap bushings.
Running conduit below the baggage floor and/or behind the right side baggage
wall is a necessity. These panels are riveted in place and you'll need to
run wire for battery power, contactor control, strobes, strobe power supply,
position lights, etc from the tailcone to the panel and/or wings. I'd also
suggest a conduit in the tailcone from the bay where the battery is to the
aft bay.
You will have to install a mount for a heated pitot before closing up the
wing. Also, it's much easier to install the AP roll servo while the bottom
wing skin is off, but it can be done through the access panel (for TruTrak,
can't speak for others). This is really a trade off between a 30 min job
with the skin off and a couple hours (my guess) with scraped knuckles and
cussing if the skin is already on.
Here's a list of specific potential equipment with my thoughts:
Strobes/position lights: these mount on the bottom of the rudder and in the
wingtips - can be done anytime. Power supply is typically being mounted in
the tailcone, same bay as the battery.
Landing lights: Kit from Van's installs in the wingtips and can be done
anytime. Other options (Duckworks) install in the outboard leading edge of
a wing. It is my understanding that these can be installed after completion
but is easier before.
Antennas: typical mounting locations for navs are either in the wingtips
(Archer - I have one in each wingtip) or on the bottom aft end of the
tailcone. MB can also be in a wingtip (my installation) or on the bottom of
the fuselage. Comms on the bottom of the fuselage (mine are below the rear
seats). Transponder on the bottom of the fuselage (mine is in the aft end
of the bay with the battery box). Only areas that are inaccessible after
completion are below the rear seats and baggage floor. In retrospect I'd
probably mount my comms just forward of the rear seats in the area below the
tube that drives the flaps.
AP servos (TruTrak): Roll servo mounts in the wing - very clean install.
A stock bracket for the aileron bellcrank is replaced with one from TT that
includes mounting holes for the servo. As stated earlier - can be done
after wing closeout but is easier before. Pitch servo is attached to aft
part of the battery tray assembly with a bracket supplied by Van's in the
fuselage kit. It is possible to purchase the servos and defer the actual AP
decision since most TT models use the same servos.
This allows you to defer the majority of the expense (and specific model
decision).
Heated Pitot: You'll need a Gretz (or equivalent) mount. This needs to be
put in before the bottom wing skin is attached.
PSS Angle of Attack system: the pressure taps install in the leading edge of
an outboard wing bay. Easily installed after wing completion.
It is possible to purchase the system in two kits to get the pressure taps
and tubing early and defer the majority of the expense (and specific model
decision). I'd recommend this so that you can insure that the conduit/snap
bushing hole size is sufficiently large for the tubing and various wires.
Hope this helps!
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Peck
Subject: RV10-List: Lights on VS and When to buy options
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ken Peck" <kenbpeck@comcast.net>
I'm sure there is an archive that answers my questions, so if someone will
please point me to it, I'll go read through the archives....
Question #1: As an additional 'classy' touch, I thought I put a couple
of
small lights in the HS pointing up at the VS - you know, kind of like
they
do on commercial planes. Was thinking probably just a couple of leds.
-
anyone done this, thought about it, have reasons why I can't /
shouldn't?
Question #2: I'm close to finishing the HS, planning the -10 to do some
minimal IFR in the plane, so night lighting, collision avoidance, and
autopilot will be a necessity. Can anyone offer guidance about when in
the
process I need to decide to buy the additional components that don't
come in
the kit?
Thanks,
Ken
-10 HS riveting
Central FL
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Ok, I have two DW HID landing light kits, one for each wing and I also
have the AOA kit.
Anyone else have this scenario where both the HID kit and the AOA are
recommended in the outer most bay of the leading edge. It's seems I may
have space problems between the HID mounting bracket and the AOA port
location.
Any suggestions from those out there that have the DW kits and the AOA?
-Sean #40303
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I dont' have the AOA, but have a question for you. Have you
found that there will be interference, or are you just
trying to find out ahead of time if there will be interference?
The HID mounts pretty far forward in the wing. I don't know
where the AOA mounts. It would seem like you'd have to be
pretty unlucky though to have that same piece of space
used by both, and not be able to get around it. Is that
what you found though?
Tim
Sean Stephens wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Ok, I have two DW HID landing light kits, one for each wing and I also
> have the AOA kit.
> Anyone else have this scenario where both the HID kit and the AOA are
> recommended in the outer most bay of the leading edge. It's seems I may
> have space problems between the HID mounting bracket and the AOA port
> location.
>
> Any suggestions from those out there that have the DW kits and the AOA?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA |
Nope, plenty of room. I have the HID and AoA ports in the same bay.
<http://www.kitlog.com/users/display_log.php?usermsausen&project22&category940&log1017&row 3>
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: RV10-List: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Ok, I have two DW HID landing light kits, one for each wing and I also have the
AOA kit.
Anyone else have this scenario where both the HID kit and the AOA are recommended
in the outer most bay of the leading edge. It's seems I may have space problems
between the HID mounting bracket and the AOA port location.
Any suggestions from those out there that have the DW kits and the AOA?
-Sean #40303
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
ACS lists the AOA position for the '10 at 9" forward of the wing skin
break at the spar in the middle of the bay (offset by 2" top and
bottom). Funnily enough, I just completed my HID install (thanks tim)
and panicked a bit when I thought of where the AOA goes. Unfortunately,
I panicked while daydreaming about it at work and can't measure to find
out til I get home. That last bay is getting crowded though...
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I dont' have the AOA, but have a question for you. Have you
found that there will be interference, or are you just
trying to find out ahead of time if there will be interference?
The HID mounts pretty far forward in the wing. I don't know
where the AOA mounts. It would seem like you'd have to be
pretty unlucky though to have that same piece of space
used by both, and not be able to get around it. Is that
what you found though?
Tim
Sean Stephens wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Ok, I have two DW HID landing light kits, one for each wing and I also
> have the AOA kit.
> Anyone else have this scenario where both the HID kit and the AOA are
> recommended in the outer most bay of the leading edge. It's seems I
may
> have space problems between the HID mounting bracket and the AOA port
> location.
>
> Any suggestions from those out there that have the DW kits and the
AOA?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Wow, finally a toy you don't have! Here's the info from the AFS website
showing the exact pressure tap locations for the AOA:
http://www.advanced-control-systems.com/AOAsupport/aoasupport.htm
Actual hole is very small but the pressure tap itself (inside of wing)
is about 1.5" or so in diameter and 2-3 inches in length. They install
with a couple of small screws through the skin.
Also, in my earlier email I called it the PSS AOA System. Rob Hickman
of Advanced Flight Systems actually bought the product line a while back
and now it's officially the AFS AOA System. Sorry Rob...
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I dont' have the AOA, but have a question for you. Have you
found that there will be interference, or are you just
trying to find out ahead of time if there will be interference?
The HID mounts pretty far forward in the wing. I don't know
where the AOA mounts. It would seem like you'd have to be
pretty unlucky though to have that same piece of space
used by both, and not be able to get around it. Is that
what you found though?
Tim
Sean Stephens wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Ok, I have two DW HID landing light kits, one for each wing and I also
> have the AOA kit.
> Anyone else have this scenario where both the HID kit and the AOA are
> recommended in the outer most bay of the leading edge. It's seems I
may
> have space problems between the HID mounting bracket and the AOA port
> location.
>
> Any suggestions from those out there that have the DW kits and the
AOA?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Just looking for previous experience prior to cutting the HID hole. :)
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I dont' have the AOA, but have a question for you. Have you
> found that there will be interference, or are you just
> trying to find out ahead of time if there will be interference?
> The HID mounts pretty far forward in the wing. I don't know
> where the AOA mounts. It would seem like you'd have to be
> pretty unlucky though to have that same piece of space
> used by both, and not be able to get around it. Is that
> what you found though?
>
>
> Tim
>
> Sean Stephens wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>>
>> Ok, I have two DW HID landing light kits, one for each wing and I
>> also have the AOA kit.
>> Anyone else have this scenario where both the HID kit and the AOA are
>> recommended in the outer most bay of the leading edge. It's seems I
>> may have space problems between the HID mounting bracket and the AOA
>> port location.
>>
>> Any suggestions from those out there that have the DW kits and the AOA?
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Thanks Michael. I knew someone would have done it before me. :)
-Sean
do not archive
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> Nope, plenty of room. I have the HID and AoA ports in the same bay.
>
> <http://www.kitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22&category=940&log=1017&row=
> 3>
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Fuselage
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 11:37 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Ok, I have two DW HID landing light kits, one for each wing and I also
> have the AOA kit.
>
> Anyone else have this scenario where both the HID kit and the AOA are
> recommended in the outer most bay of the leading edge. It's seems I
> may have space problems between the HID mounting bracket and the AOA
> port location.
>
> Any suggestions from those out there that have the DW kits and the AOA?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
> ====================================
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> more:
> bsp;
> ">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ====================================
> bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ====================================
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
BTW: What type of sealant did you use to mate the ports to the skins?
In the pic it looks like something clear.
Thanks,
-Sean
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> Nope, plenty of room. I have the HID and AoA ports in the same bay.
>
> <http://www.kitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22&category=940&log=1017&row=
> 3>
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Fuselage
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 11:37 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Ok, I have two DW HID landing light kits, one for each wing and I also
> have the AOA kit.
>
> Anyone else have this scenario where both the HID kit and the AOA are
> recommended in the outer most bay of the leading edge. It's seems I
> may have space problems between the HID mounting bracket and the AOA
> port location.
>
> Any suggestions from those out there that have the DW kits and the AOA?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
> ====================================
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> more:
> bsp;
> ">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ====================================
> bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ====================================
>
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RE: Cost to paint RV10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condon, Philip M." <pcondon@mitre.org>
RV10-List: RE: Cost to paint RV10
Another concern for painting is a location that will allow painting. I
painted a few airplanes in the very recent past and stealth-ing your
way into spraying, prepping, priming, disassembling, drying parts, rag
and solvent disposal (very big problem....), compressors, sprayers,
lighting, heaters, electricity, neighbors (airport and home)...all the
items that are required to paint a airplane come into play. All of
these concerns can be overcome, I imagine it was the challenge of the
issue that motivated me.
Painted a RV-4 with Glasserit (Mercedes/BMW paint) considered to be one
of the top paints ONLY because the mixing distributor was near where I
work. The RV_6 I assisted in paint was painted with Sikkens (Audi, VW)
because the buddy I was painting with could get his chemicals also on
his way home from work. A little practice on anything metal was all
that was required. I have the best looking, wheel borrow & trash cans
in the neighborhood, well, until the trash man dinged them up. I must
have prepped them correctly, there is no paint loss in spite of the
dinging fro the trash man
--> RV10-List message posted by: LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
>The paint shop (that was destroyed at SUA from hurricanes) charged 10k
>and up to strip and paint a C-152. You get what you pay for.
OK, I have to question the judgement of anyone who would pay $10,000 to
paint an
aircraft worth $20,000-$30,000. To me, stripping should always be
included
in an already painted aircraft paint job, so specifying "strip & paint"
seems
to imply that they are providing something "extra." I don't doubt that
you can
easily spend $10,000 painting a 152. I'm assuming metallic paint,
elaborate
striping , etc. I had a friend paint his previously polished 170 in
metallic
silver with red strip and it came to $17,000. The 170 at least is a
classic.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA |
Ah yes, that would be the super high tech, space age glue called shoe goo also
known as E6000.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
BTW: What type of sealant did you use to mate the ports to the skins?
In the pic it looks like something clear.
Thanks,
-Sean
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> Nope, plenty of room. I have the HID and AoA ports in the same bay.
>
><http://www.kitlog.com/users/display_log.php?usermsausen&project22&c< BR>>ategory940&log1017&row
> 3>
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Fuselage
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean
> Stephens
> Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 11:37 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Ok, I have two DW HID landing light kits, one for each wing and I also
> have the AOA kit.
>
> Anyone else have this scenario where both the HID kit and the AOA are
> recommended in the outer most bay of the leading edge. It's seems I
> may have space problems between the HID mounting bracket and the AOA
> port location.
>
> Any suggestions from those out there that have the DW kits and the AOA?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> more:
> bsp;
> ">http://www.matroni
> cs.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ">http://www.matronics.com/
> contribution
>
>
>
> --
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fuel tank instructions, Tips, Hints |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Anyone else notice that the fuel tank instructions must have been
written by someone other than who wrote the previous sections? They seem
to leave out important information, requiring some head-scratching at
the dinner table.
For example: What do you countersink on the tank attach bracket? What do
you dimple on the skin? Should you countersink the skin on the attach
bracket, or dimple it and countersink the bracket?
This is what I have so far (Add it to the tip list.. if I'm correct that
is)
1. Countersink ALL #40 holes on the tank attach bracket.
2. Do not countersink ANY #19 holes on the tank attach bracket.
3. Do not dimple the skin at the location of the fuel sump/drain
flange (the flange is pre-countersunk)
4. Dimple the skin holes with a regular #40 dimple die
5. Dimple the stiffeners, ribs, and J-stiffener with a #40 tank
dimple die (allows room for proseal between the dimples)
Also, I have been advised to not Alodine the inside of the tank because
the Alodine will come off with constant exposure to avgas. This is from
someone who has built an RV-8 and has rebuilt a few production aircraft.
-Jim 40384 Tanks almost ready for the joy of proseal!
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RE: Cost to paint RV10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Phil:
Did you put stripes on your trash cans? : )
TDT
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condon,
Philip M.
Subject: RV10-List: RE: Cost to paint RV10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condon, Philip M." <pcondon@mitre.org>
RV10-List: RE: Cost to paint RV10
Another concern for painting is a location that will allow painting. I
painted a few airplanes in the very recent past and stealth-ing your
way into spraying, prepping, priming, disassembling, drying parts, rag
and solvent disposal (very big problem....), compressors, sprayers,
lighting, heaters, electricity, neighbors (airport and home)...all the
items that are required to paint a airplane come into play. All of
these concerns can be overcome, I imagine it was the challenge of the
issue that motivated me.
Painted a RV-4 with Glasserit (Mercedes/BMW paint) considered to be one
of the top paints ONLY because the mixing distributor was near where I
work. The RV_6 I assisted in paint was painted with Sikkens (Audi, VW)
because the buddy I was painting with could get his chemicals also on
his way home from work. A little practice on anything metal was all
that was required. I have the best looking, wheel borrow & trash cans
in the neighborhood, well, until the trash man dinged them up. I must
have prepped them correctly, there is no paint loss in spite of the
dinging fro the trash man
--> RV10-List message posted by: LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
>The paint shop (that was destroyed at SUA from hurricanes) charged 10k
>and up to strip and paint a C-152. You get what you pay for.
OK, I have to question the judgement of anyone who would pay $10,000 to
paint an
aircraft worth $20,000-$30,000. To me, stripping should always be
included
in an already painted aircraft paint job, so specifying "strip & paint"
seems
to imply that they are providing something "extra." I don't doubt that
you can
easily spend $10,000 painting a 152. I'm assuming metallic paint,
elaborate
striping , etc. I had a friend paint his previously polished 170 in
metallic
silver with red strip and it came to $17,000. The 170 at least is a
classic.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Lights on VS and When to buy options |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com>
Yes Bob,
Good thorough information.
Just a couple comments:
1 - Whether you use a 'conduit' or 'bushings', install an extra fishing
line or 2 so if you add some wire later you have something to attach to
and just pull it thru.
2 - Since the -10 wings are quite large inside, installing the Duckworks
lights after the wings are closed is only minimally more difficult than
during construction.
3 - We're adding an option to our product list that is the install kits
without the lamps. We have gotten many inquiries for this to either
space-out the costs, and or allow installation of lamps sourced by the
builder. At least they can leverage our installation package.
Dw (Duckworks)
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Lights on VS and When to buy options
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
--> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Ken,
No comment about your first question. In terms of timing for purchasing
items, you can hold off on purchasing the actual lights, etc. until
you're finishing up the plane. Running the wire will potentially make
your life easier down the road. Some have run conduit through the wings
but there is reasonable access to run it through the stock snap bushings
after the wings are complete - it will take more time without conduit
however. I installed my wing wiring before closing them up and just
used the stock snap bushings. Running conduit below the baggage floor
and/or behind the right side baggage wall is a necessity. These panels
are riveted in place and you'll need to run wire for battery power,
contactor control, strobes, strobe power supply, position lights, etc
from the tailcone to the panel and/or wings. I'd also suggest a conduit
in the tailcone from the bay where the battery is to the aft bay.
You will have to install a mount for a heated pitot before closing up
the wing. Also, it's much easier to install the AP roll servo while the
bottom wing skin is off, but it can be done through the access panel
(for TruTrak, can't speak for others). This is really a trade off
between a 30 min job with the skin off and a couple hours (my guess)
with scraped knuckles and cussing if the skin is already on.
Here's a list of specific potential equipment with my thoughts:
Strobes/position lights: these mount on the bottom of the rudder and in
the wingtips - can be done anytime. Power supply is typically being
mounted in the tailcone, same bay as the battery.
Landing lights: Kit from Van's installs in the wingtips and can be done
anytime. Other options (Duckworks) install in the outboard leading edge
of a wing. It is my understanding that these can be installed after
completion but is easier before.
PSS Angle of Attack system: the pressure taps install in the leading
edge of an outboard wing bay. Easily installed after wing completion.
It is possible to purchase the system in two kits to get the pressure
taps and tubing early and defer the majority of the expense (and
specific model decision). I'd recommend this so that you can insure
that the conduit/snap bushing hole size is sufficiently large for the
tubing and various wires.
Hope this helps!
Bob #40105
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank instructions, Tips, Hints |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
James,
You'll find the plans will start to get more vague as you progress, Not bad but
the plans get less handholding than in the earlier sections. One tip I have is
to look ahead and see where things are intended to go then you get a clearer
picture of why you doing something that seems not "normal". Be prepared to make
countersink vs. dimple decisions, stuff like that.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Actual performance of flying RV 10s |
David, why don't you fly out to Portland and take a hour or so flight.
Telling you that this is a great flying machine won't make nearly the
impression that putting the stick in you hand will give you. You are
spending 100,000 + dollars to build a plane what is 500.00 in air fair
and hotel. The boost in production after you fly it will be worth it.
This offer is open to all. Randy 40006
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Boone
Subject: RV10-List: Actual performance of flying RV 10s
Any of you guys out there that are actually flying care to give us guys
some real life performance and comments about your rv 10 flying
experiences. Thanks David Boone #138
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Cost to paint RV10 |
John -
At the airlines, we always acid wash the aluminum with phosphoric acid
then copious amounts of deionized water before the Alodine application
process. I have attached passages which might apply to our RV-10
process.
"Touch-up Alodine" is used with a handheld container much like a magic
marker to apply spot application.
You can disregard Section 3 - as the RV-10 is not yet fabricated using
any Titanium or associated alloys. Well maybe some scrap parts will be
fabricated on mine.
Our issue is, was and will remain the delaminating effects of Jet A and
Skydrol (phosphate ester based brake fluid) on the final topcoat.
Neither is a factor with the RV-10 using Avgas or H5606.
Using the correct primer for adhesion to the treated aluminum which is
also compatible with the final topcoat is critical. Changing
manufacturers is never done between primer and topcoat. I think it is
the secret formulas and special pricing that frightens us.
All Amphibians, all military and all commercials get Alodine. Cheaper
cost Spam cans skip the step cause the insidious damage is not obvious
till the product liability coverage lapses. Many kitbuilders skip this
important step (In my opinion) to save dollars. Just like using
automotive vs. aerospace hardware and electrical connectors. Risk /
Reward analysis.
Personally I would not purchase nor recommend any client buy another
builder's kitbuilt aircraft that was not alodined. Just one of many
corners cut on the road to perfection. Keep up the extra consideration
and effort.
John - KAUO
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cost to paint RV10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez"
<indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
I have been etching everything during dis assembly/ before riveting and
then
alodining by emersion technique. I am foregoing the internal priming
and
being very careful when riveting; I cover the parts of the bucking bars
that
will not be contacting the rivets with plumbers tape to keep the bucking
bar
from scratching up the internal structures which can and will remove the
alodine finish.
My question for the described paint technique with the inclusion of
alodine
is, obviously some filling and sanding will be done and some areas of
raw
metal will then be re-exposed. Is the primer, and filler okay with the
alodine application again as some of the solution will get on some of
these
areas.
The emersion technique bathed the metal in the solution and it picked up
the
solution well, but I notice the brush application of alodine does not
seem
to work very well as the solution simple roles off the metal, so is it
really doing anything or is there another technique to use with the
alodine
to get the solution to sit longer on the raw metal?
John Gonzalez 40409
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Could someone with a gretz mount be so kind as to post the screw hole locations
on the gretz pitot mount. What size rectangle/square would it draw if the hole
centers were used as the corners of the square.
Thanks
Chris Lucas
#40072 wings
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Cost to paint RV10 [Edited] |
****This is an edited version of a previous post.****
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
I have been etching everything during dis assembly/ before riveting and then
alodining by emersion technique. I am foregoing the internal priming and
being very careful when riveting; I cover the parts of the bucking bars that
will not be contacting the rivets with plumbers tape to keep the bucking bar
from scratching up the internal structures which can and will remove the
alodine finish.
My question for the described paint technique with the inclusion of alodine
is, obviously some filling and sanding will be done and some areas of raw
metal will then be re-exposed. Is the primer, and filler okay with the
alodine application again as some of the solution will get on some of these
areas.
The emersion technique bathed the metal in the solution and it picked up the
solution well, but I notice the brush application of alodine does not seem
to work very well as the solution simple roles off the metal, so is it
really doing anything or is there another technique to use with the alodine
to get the solution to sit longer on the raw metal?
John Gonzalez 40409
-------------------- m2f --------------------
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=584#584
-------------------- m2f --------------------
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I have the non- chromed and there are nutplate holes in each corner, so
I am assuming you mean the main screw holes
The main plate is 1 and 7/8" by 3"
and the mounting holes are centered in the above rectangle at 1 and 3/8"
by 2and 1/2"
Like a rectangle in a rectangle. If you need other measurements let me
know
Dan
40269
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Subject: RV10-List: Mount for pitot
Could someone with a gretz mount be so kind as to post the screw hole
locations on the gretz pitot mount. What size rectangle/square would it
draw if the hole centers were used as the corners of the square.
Thanks
Chris Lucas
#40072 wings
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Just wondered where you guys are putting your AHARS unit, I'm planning
on using the Grand Rapids EFIS 1. Every where I look it seams to be too
close to wiring.
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Here's mine:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20050905/index.html
Just wired it up tonight.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Panel Wiring
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Sam Marlow wrote:
> Just wondered where you guys are putting your AHARS unit, I'm planning
> on using the Grand Rapids EFIS 1. Every where I look it seams to be too
> close to wiring.
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: AHARS
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Here's mine:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20050905/index.html
>
> Just wired it up tonight.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current section: Panel Wiring
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Sam Marlow wrote:
>> Just wondered where you guys are putting your AHARS unit, I'm planning
>> on using the Grand Rapids EFIS 1. Every where I look it seams to be too
>> close to wiring.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|