Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:36 AM - Applying color to door rubber gaskets... (Scott Serani)
2. 06:55 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
3. 07:01 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (John Testement)
4. 07:26 AM - Grand Rapids EFIS (Sam Marlow)
5. 07:27 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Conti, Rick)
6. 07:31 AM - Windows (Sam Marlow)
7. 08:06 AM - Re: Cost to paint RV10 (John W. Cox)
8. 08:08 AM - Re: Locks for the doors of the RV-10. (Jesse Saint)
9. 08:12 AM - Re: Locks for the doors of the RV-10. (Jesse Saint)
10. 08:40 AM - Re: Cost to paint RV10 (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
11. 08:51 AM - Beautiful Panels (John W. Cox)
12. 09:07 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Randy DeBauw)
13. 09:09 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Tim Olson)
14. 09:14 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
15. 09:18 AM - Re: Windows (Jesse Saint)
16. 09:20 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Jesse Saint)
17. 09:22 AM - Re: Beautiful Panels (Deems Davis)
18. 09:53 AM - Re: Beautiful Panels (Larry Rosen)
19. 09:59 AM - Re: Beautiful Panels (John W. Cox)
20. 10:09 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto)
21. 10:31 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Tim Olson)
22. 10:47 AM - Visit to Randy to measure control throws (Eric Panning)
23. 11:04 AM - Re: Beautiful Panels (John Jessen)
24. 11:50 AM - Re: Beautiful Panels (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto)
25. 11:55 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Randy DeBauw)
26. 12:09 PM - Re: Beautiful Panels (John Jessen)
27. 12:09 PM - Re: Beautiful Panels (John W. Cox)
28. 12:24 PM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (William)
29. 12:53 PM - Re: Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Joe Bienkowski)
30. 02:10 PM - Re: Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
31. 04:36 PM - Re: Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (David McNeill)
32. 05:04 PM - Re: Grand Rapids EFIS (Bill Schlatterer)
33. 06:01 PM - Re: Grand Rapids EFIS (David Schaefer)
34. 08:20 PM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (William)
35. 08:29 PM - Re: Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Kelly McMullen)
36. 08:41 PM - Re: Visit to Randy to measure control throws (Chris)
37. 08:49 PM - Re: Grand Rapids EFIS (Chris)
38. 09:01 PM - Re: Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Tim Olson)
39. 09:03 PM - Re: Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Tim Olson)
40. 09:49 PM - Re: Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (David McNeill)
41. 10:31 PM - Re: Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (ddddsp1@juno.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Applying color to door rubber gaskets... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Serani" <sms@instakey.com>
first time matronics poster / zeroing in on firewall forward builder here...
I am struggling with a means to apply color to that ugly gray molding
wrapped all the way around the doors. Best thing I've tested thus far is
using colored magic markers (a finish that doesn't crack or peal off - but
seems a little stupid and is certainly not the easiest means if your
interested in a finish that actually looks better than hand painted).
Anybody found a means to apply color to that rubber?
Scott Serani, Builder 40341
Denver, CO 80223
Email: sms@instakey.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
I also used the AeroElectric scheme: a #2 wire from the battery to a
firewall mounted ground tab block and brass bolt, then heavy braid to
the engine crankcase ground.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Kraus
Subject: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in the
Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the door
cut outs on each side.
Thanks
-Mike
Message 3
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| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
Tim,
Where exactly did you place your ground block? Did you put one on the
firewall side as well? What did you use for the penetration of the #2
battery wire through the firewall? Did you run this through the location
Vans recommends in there wiring instructions?
I know, a lot of questions - but that's what you get when you are the sage.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on QB fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I ran #2 from battery to firewall, then through a 48 tab ground block from B
& C, then from the opposite side of the firewall to the engine using B&C's
heaviest braid wire.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Panel Wiring
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Mike Kraus wrote:
> Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
> thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
> longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
> hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in
> the Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the
> door cut outs on each side.
>
> Thanks
> -Mike
Message 4
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| Subject: | Grand Rapids EFIS |
Does anyone have experience with the Grand Rapids EFIS 1? Flown it,
installed it, ect?
Sam Marlow
Instrument Panel RV10
Message 5
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| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
I decided not to use the airframe as a return. Since all parts are
primed and the riveted "connection" is a painted surface to an unpainted
surface, electrically, it's not a good connection. I bought the power
board from Blue Mountain and both battery cables run forward to the
board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
From: Mike Kraus [mailto:n223rv@wolflakeairport.net]
Subject: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in the
Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the door
cut outs on each side.
Thanks
-Mike
Message 6
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the
windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used?
Sam Marlow
Fuse RV10
Message 7
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| Subject: | Cost to paint RV10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Thanks for the kind words. I feel bad for forgetting our 'dialup'
members. Wow, those were the days. Dual bonded ISDN. I was also
intending to post to Tim, who has been great at keeping up the notes on
his RV-10 University site.
I am going to send Tim some pictures of poor alodine, primer, topcoat
and long term damage to metal airplanes. We do Heavy Checks at Alaska
Air Group every 5,000 flight hours which is a lifetime for an RV-10.
Ask Tim about the airplane wiring information which he has not posted
yet. It was even larger in detail.
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cost to paint RV10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez"
<indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Thank you John for the very informative information. This is the kind
of
information I find comforting. This is what the home build community
needs.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Locks for the doors of the RV-10. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Probably somewhere, but I am about 1,500 miles from the plane for the next
several months. Somebody from Osh might have one that they took, but I
don't think I have one with me.
Actually, John Nuys, I believe, put locks on his doors similar to those on
the baggage door, if not the exact same. I didn't get pictures of that
either, though.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Locks for the doors of the RV-10.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Got a picture of your lock in action?
TDT
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Locks for the doors of the RV-10.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
A code padlock, to be exact, so you don't have to carry around another
key.
It isn't very high-tech, but it works. Nobody has stolen the plane yet.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it
has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Locks for the doors of the RV-10.
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Jesse Saint solved it by drilling a hole through the thumb button
latch release, and sticking a small paddlock through. Other than
that method, I don't see a very easy way.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
<Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
>
> Has anyone solved the problem on how to provide a keyed lock for
> both RV-10 doors? If you have and you have pictures, I would love to
> see them.
>
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> 40250
> Both doors are now hinged to the airplane.
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Locks for the doors of the RV-10. |
The beauty of this plane is that you get to avoid the stinking.uh, I mean
the, make-me-feel-so-safe-when-they-frisk-my-grandmother, TSA guys. I mean
this will all due respect, and you can determine for yourselves how much
respect is due. Honestly, though, has anybody else gotten the idea that
both the people the hire and the machines they buy must have had "must have
a very bad attitude" on the job description or on the PO.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
NYTerminat@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Locks for the doors of the RV-10.
Is it TSA apporved?
do not archive
In a message dated 1/5/2006 6:25:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, Tim@MyRV10.com
writes:
> A code padlock, to be exact, so you don't have to carry around another
key.
> It isn't very high-tech, but it works. Nobody has stolen the plane yet.
>
> Jesse Saint
Message 10
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| Subject: | Cost to paint RV10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Phil - price is a great motivator, but the penny pinchers should be
comfortable with the ability (inability) to color match into the future
for panel touchup and redue.
N410RV got a composite canopy replacement last year with the newer
improved door combination reinstalled. The yellow repaint could be
identified from the original from 50 feet away. I am sure VAN stayed
loyal to his single source paint supplier. The RV-10 specified: Valspar
Solar System Sunthane 852Y1018L Yellow. Maybe the painter slipped and
used leftover yellow from an RV7 or RV9A. Two ways to get it wrong out
of three choices. Another solution is buy 150% of the material you
believe you will need from the cheaper supplier. Date tag the can.
Metallic's can be even more challenging based on humidity, temperature,
component mixture ratios and gun technique. Most painters don't record
that stuff and most touchup can be too easily seen. Lighting and
environmental control is much more important at the quality end of the
light spectrum.
John - KUAO
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condon,
Philip M.
Subject: RV10-List: Cost to paint RV10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condon, Philip M." <pcondon@mitre.org>
Check with Vans. His shop painted the RV-10 with a paint that was less
pricy then the popular brand paints. I believe the write up was in a
back issue of the RV-ATOR. The paint material cost for the paint was
less then half if I recall.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Beautiful Panels |
Has anyone looked closely at Gary Kremers panel on his RV-7, N715AB with
dual Grand Rapids?
John - KUAO
Message 12
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| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I am a rebel. I ran #4 positive to the starter and #4 ground to the
mounting bolt for the battery box. Seems to work fine. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I ran #2 from battery to firewall, then through a 48 tab ground
block from B & C, then from the opposite side of the firewall
to the engine using B&C's heaviest braid wire.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Panel Wiring
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Mike Kraus wrote:
> Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
> thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
> longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
> hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in
the
> Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the door
> cut outs on each side.
>
> Thanks
> -Mike
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I put mine on the inside of the firewall, in that
small upper curved-top cubby area on the slanted part
of the firewall, on the pilots side. It fit good there
and was wasted space otherwise. I would have centered it more,
but I have my lightspeed box in the center area, and my
WSI weather in the other center area on the Right.
I did not place any ground tabs on the engine side. There's
really almost nothing there to ground with fast-ons.
I ran the #2 positive wire just the way van's recommended.
I know, the snap bushings are cheesy, and should be improved
on. But it is what it is.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
John Testement wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
>
> Tim,
>
> Where exactly did you place your ground block? Did you put one on the
> firewall side as well? What did you use for the penetration of the #2
> battery wire through the firewall? Did you run this through the location
> Vans recommends in there wiring instructions?
>
> I know, a lot of questions - but that's what you get when you are the sage.
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Working on QB fuse
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 11:56 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I ran #2 from battery to firewall, then through a 48 tab ground block from B
> & C, then from the opposite side of the firewall to the engine using B&C's
> heaviest braid wire.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current section: Panel Wiring
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Mike Kraus wrote:
>
>>Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
>>thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
>>longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
>>hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in
>>the Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the
>>door cut outs on each side.
>>
>>Thanks
>>-Mike
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Glad to hear it, Randy, since that's what we're doing, albeit with a #2
wire . . .
Reminder that "Aero-Electric" seems to have been written with a
composite mindset in a lot of cases . . .
TDT
40025
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I am a rebel. I ran #4 positive to the starter and #4 ground to the
mounting bolt for the battery box. Seems to work fine. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I ran #2 from battery to firewall, then through a 48 tab ground
block from B & C, then from the opposite side of the firewall
to the engine using B&C's heaviest braid wire.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Panel Wiring
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Mike Kraus wrote:
> Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
> thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
> longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
> hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in
the
> Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the door
> cut outs on each side.
>
> Thanks
> -Mike
Message 15
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use Van's
recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder recommended. It
is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to work really well
and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear, than the stuff that Van's
sells.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Subject: RV10-List: Windows
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the
windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used?
Sam Marlow
Fuse RV10
Message 16
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| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
We did the same routing. We used Van's harness, so whatever wire came with
that is what we used.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I am a rebel. I ran #4 positive to the starter and #4 ground to the
mounting bolt for the battery box. Seems to work fine. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I ran #2 from battery to firewall, then through a 48 tab ground
block from B & C, then from the opposite side of the firewall
to the engine using B&C's heaviest braid wire.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Panel Wiring
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Mike Kraus wrote:
> Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
> thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
> longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
> hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in
the
> Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the door
> cut outs on each side.
>
> Thanks
> -Mike
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Beautiful Panels |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Are there pics avail?
Do Not Archive
John W. Cox wrote:
> Has anyone looked closely at Gary Kremers panel on his RV-7, N715AB
> with dual Grand Rapids?
>
>
>
> John - KUAO
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Beautiful Panels |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I found it here:
<http://www.vansaircraft.com/images/first_flight/Kremers1_lg.jpg>
Don't know if there are any better pictures out there.
I did not attach the photo in respect for those with dial up. ;-)
Larry Rosen
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
John W. Cox wrote:
> Has anyone looked closely at Gary Kremers panel on his RV-7, N715AB
> with dual Grand Rapids?
>
>
>
> John - KUAO
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Beautiful Panels |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
On the VANS - First Flights page.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Beautiful Panels
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Are there pics avail?
Do Not Archive
John W. Cox wrote:
> Has anyone looked closely at Gary Kremers panel on his RV-7, N715AB
> with dual Grand Rapids?
>
>
>
> John - KUAO
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
#4 would probably be fine unless you spend a lot of time in the frozen tundra.
Might be pushing it then. I, as Tim did, will be putting in #2 for that exact
reason. It gets mighty cold in WI from time to time. If I never left the
warmer climates I wouldn't bother.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I am a rebel. I ran #4 positive to the starter and #4 ground to the mounting bolt
for the battery box. Seems to work fine. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I ran #2 from battery to firewall, then through a 48 tab ground block from B &
C, then from the opposite side of the firewall to the engine using B&C's heaviest
braid wire.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Panel Wiring
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Mike Kraus wrote:
> Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
> thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
> longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
> hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in
the
> Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the door
> cut outs on each side.
>
> Thanks
> -Mike
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That's exactly my reasoning too. Up here when it's only zero degrees
out, you need all the help you can get. The difference between #2 and
#4 in weight isn't significant enough for me to want to bother. I
can see why #4 is a motivator for some though.
As for the grounding through the airframe, that's just fine, but,
one major help in eliminating electrical gremlins is to use a
single point ground and eliminate ground loops. Although
success might be plenty possible without running a ground
all the way to the firewall, about the LAST thing I ever would
want to do is try to run a #2 ground up to the firewall
AFTER I built the plane, if I found problems with my EFIS,
AHRS, Radios, and stuff like that. I'd kick my own butt
so hard for not doing it up front. So that's why. I
just want to take all precautions for the most reliable
system I can..even if it does weigh 6 lbs more. (or whatever)
Re-wiring a plane is much harder than doing it the first time.
BTW: I'm also taking extra care building my harnesses for some
items.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> #4 would probably be fine unless you spend a lot of time in the frozen
> tundra. Might be pushing it then. I, as Tim did, will be putting in #2
> for that exact reason. It gets mighty cold in WI from time to time. If
> I never left the warmer climates I wouldn't bother.
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Fuselage
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
> Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 11:03 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> I am a rebel. I ran #4 positive to the starter and #4 ground to the
> mounting bolt for the battery box. Seems to work fine. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 8:56 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I ran #2 from battery to firewall, then through a 48 tab ground block
> from B & C, then from the opposite side of the firewall to the engine
> using B&C's heaviest braid wire.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current section: Panel Wiring
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Mike Kraus wrote:
> > Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
> > thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
> > longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
> > hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in
> the
> > Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the door
> > cut outs on each side.
> >
> > Thanks
> > -Mike
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ====================================
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> more:
> bsp;
> ">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ====================================
> bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ====================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Visit to Randy to measure control throws |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
Hi, Randy was nice enough to let me take some
measurements off of his airplane last night. We had a
great time discussing RV-10's and admiring his
airplane. Great motivation for anyone to keep at it.
Now if it only stops raining in Portland...
I was primarily interested in aileron throws. We
measured the left wing aileron angle relative to the
top wing skin. Full up is 35 degrees and full down is
-12.6 degrees. To complete this motion, the actuator
rod transits ~ 2.2 inches.
Upper travel should be limited by the hard stop on the
mounting angle. Lower travel, when wings attached to
fuselage, is limited by the mechanical stop on the
opposite wing. However, another check is the bellcrank
should never be "over center".
I have an issue on my plane, my full up travel is
limited not by the mechanical stop, but by a clearance
issue with the actuator rod and the lower surface of
the hole in the rear spar. This could be addressed by
opening it up more, but I'm surprised that it is there
in the first place as everything is match drilled and
the doubler plate hole matches the factory opening in
the spar. Has anyone else seen this issue?
I did not notice on Randy's plane if the same
clearance issue exists. There is no clearance issue on
the outboard edge of the hole as the range of travel
when installed is not enough to touch the edge.
Also measured elevator and trim travel.
Elevator: Full up 4.9 degrees above horizontal plane
Full down 33.2 degrees below horizontal
plane
Trim tab (left):
Full down: 22 degrees down relative to trailing edge
of elevator
Full up: 6.4 degrees above relative to " " " "
Trim tab (right):
Full down: 21 degress down " " " " "
Full up: 27.1 degrees up " " " " "
Note: Full up travel is very different for L vs R tab.
Eric
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Beautiful Panels |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Very similar to what I've been planning, nicely done, but not sure yet if
mine will be Grand Rapids or another unit I saw recently but will not be out
until after S&F.
John Jessen
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Beautiful Panels
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I found it here:
<http://www.vansaircraft.com/images/first_flight/Kremers1_lg.jpg>
Don't know if there are any better pictures out there.
I did not attach the photo in respect for those with dial up. ;-)
Larry Rosen
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
John W. Cox wrote:
> Has anyone looked closely at Gary Kremers panel on his RV-7, N715AB
> with dual Grand Rapids?
>
>
>
> John - KUAO
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Beautiful Panels |
I've always like the nice look of a panel overlay. My only concern is if glare
would be a problem with a glossy overlay like that. I don't think it would
be anywhere near as bad as with one of the fully canopy aircraft but it could
still be something to think about.
Michael
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Beautiful Panels
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Very similar to what I've been planning, nicely done, but not sure yet if mine
will be Grand Rapids or another unit I saw recently but will not be out until
after S&F.
John Jessen
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Beautiful Panels
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I found it here:
<http://www.vansaircraft.com/images/first_flight/Kremers1_lg.jpg>
Don't know if there are any better pictures out there.
I did not attach the photo in respect for those with dial up. ;-)
Larry Rosen
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
John W. Cox wrote:
> Has anyone looked closely at Gary Kremers panel on his RV-7, N715AB
> with dual Grand Rapids?
>
>
> John - KUAO
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Well that is it! No way am I going to come and see you when it is ZERO
DEG. I don't want you guy's out there hand propping me when it is that
cold. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That's exactly my reasoning too. Up here when it's only zero degrees
out, you need all the help you can get. The difference between #2 and
#4 in weight isn't significant enough for me to want to bother. I
can see why #4 is a motivator for some though.
As for the grounding through the airframe, that's just fine, but,
one major help in eliminating electrical gremlins is to use a
single point ground and eliminate ground loops. Although
success might be plenty possible without running a ground
all the way to the firewall, about the LAST thing I ever would
want to do is try to run a #2 ground up to the firewall
AFTER I built the plane, if I found problems with my EFIS,
AHRS, Radios, and stuff like that. I'd kick my own butt
so hard for not doing it up front. So that's why. I
just want to take all precautions for the most reliable
system I can..even if it does weigh 6 lbs more. (or whatever)
Re-wiring a plane is much harder than doing it the first time.
BTW: I'm also taking extra care building my harnesses for some
items.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> #4 would probably be fine unless you spend a lot of time in the
frozen
> tundra. Might be pushing it then. I, as Tim did, will be putting in
#2
> for that exact reason. It gets mighty cold in WI from time to time.
If
> I never left the warmer climates I wouldn't bother.
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Fuselage
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy
DeBauw
> Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 11:03 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> I am a rebel. I ran #4 positive to the starter and #4 ground to the
> mounting bolt for the battery box. Seems to work fine. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 8:56 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I ran #2 from battery to firewall, then through a 48 tab ground block
> from B & C, then from the opposite side of the firewall to the engine
> using B&C's heaviest braid wire.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current section: Panel Wiring
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Mike Kraus wrote:
> > Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10?
I
> > thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
> > longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
> > hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in
> the
> > Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the
door
> > cut outs on each side.
> >
> > Thanks
> > -Mike
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ====================================
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> more:
> bsp;
>
">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ====================================
> bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>
">http://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution
> ====================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Beautiful Panels |
Hmmmm. I was looking only at the avionics, etc. Not the panel itself. I
would rather have a sculpted one like Randy's or just the flat black matted
ones. Both are fine. Just a matter of what fits what electronics the best.
John Jessen
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Beautiful Panels
I've always like the nice look of a panel overlay. My only concern is if
glare would be a problem with a glossy overlay like that. I don't think it
would be anywhere near as bad as with one of the fully canopy aircraft but
it could still be something to think about.
Michael
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Beautiful Panels
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Very similar to what I've been planning, nicely done, but not sure yet if
mine will be Grand Rapids or another unit I saw recently but will not be out
until after S&F.
John Jessen
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Beautiful Panels
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I found it here:
<http://www.vansaircraft.com/images/first_flight/Kremers1_lg.jpg>
Don't know if there are any better pictures out there.
I did not attach the photo in respect for those with dial up. ;-)
Larry Rosen
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
John W. Cox wrote:
> Has anyone looked closely at Gary Kremers panel on his RV-7, N715AB
> with dual Grand Rapids?
>
>
>
> John - KUAO
>
====================================
RV10-List Email Forum -
more:
bsp;
">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
====================================
bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
====================================
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Beautiful Panels |
Consider screening the graphics as Tim has presented, spray a satin or
flat (clear) finish urethane over the work to protect the screened
letters. Use aluminum wool or 1500 grit paper. You would get the warmth
of wood, the non reflective finish and the pride of your screening
efforts. Then again for the penny wise there is always the Brothers
label maker (Black over clear or White over clear) or Avery labels that
serve the purpose just as well.
John - $00.02
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Beautiful Panels
I've always like the nice look of a panel overlay. My only concern is
if glare would be a problem with a glossy overlay like that. I don't
think it would be anywhere near as bad as with one of the fully canopy
aircraft but it could still be something to think about.
Michael
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Beautiful Panels
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Very similar to what I've been planning, nicely done, but not sure yet
if mine will be Grand Rapids or another unit I saw recently but will not
be out until after S&F.
John Jessen
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Beautiful Panels
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I found it here:
<http://www.vansaircraft.com/images/first_flight/Kremers1_lg.jpg>
Don't know if there are any better pictures out there.
I did not attach the photo in respect for those with dial up. ;-)
Larry Rosen
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
John W. Cox wrote:
> Has anyone looked closely at Gary Kremers panel on his RV-7, N715AB
> with dual Grand Rapids?
>
>
> John - KUAO
>
RV10-List Email Forum -
more:
bsp;
">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
">http://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
>#4 would probably be fine unless you spend a lot of time in the
>frozen tundra. Might be pushing it then. I, as Tim did, will be
>putting in #2 for that exact reason. It gets mighty cold in WI
>from time to time. If I never left the warmer climates I wouldn't
>bother.
Dont understand this logic. Conductivity INCREASES as temperature decreases.
If you are talking about battery performance with temperature, well thats something
else and AFAIK not dependant on the cable attached.
That being said however the Vans ES WH 10 Kit uses #2 positive cable and the airframe
as ground per page OP37-12 of the electrical wiring harness instructions.
William Curtis
http://nerv10.com/
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Joe Bienkowski <joeb47@verizon.net>
The situation is thus:
The resistance of the cable, for any given size, does decrease
with decreasing temperature. NOT a large decrease however.
The ability of the battery to deliver full cranking current
decreases with decreasing temperature. This is a BIG
change.
The requirement to crank the engine GREATLY increases
with decreasing temperature.
Therefore the larger wire size WILL help some.
Best method to make a large improvement would be a
larger battery or a gear drive starter motor.
Joe Bienkowski, Bowling Green, OH
William wrote:
> >#4 would probably be fine unless you spend a lot of time in the
> >frozen tundra. Might be pushing it then. I, as Tim did, will be
> >putting in #2 for that exact reason. It gets mighty cold in WI
> >from time to time. If I never left the warmer climates I wouldn't
> >bother.
>
> Dont understand this logic. Conductivity INCREASES as temperature
> decreases. If you are talking about battery performance with
> temperature, well thats something else and AFAIK not dependant on the
> cable attached.
>
> That being said however the Vans ES WH 10 Kit uses #2 positive cable
> and the airframe as ground per page OP37-12 of the electrical wiring
> harness instructions.
>
> William Curtis
> http://nerv10.com/
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
That may be true but go outside and try and jump start a car in the winter with
WallyMart special jumper cables some time. Then give me a call and I'll bring
over my #4 welding cable jumpers and you'll be off. Not an electrician by any
stretch of the term but I know what works. :-) Probably has more to do with
getting more electrons out of the cold battery than the conductivity. Just
my guess.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
Do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of William
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>#4 would probably be fine unless you spend a lot of time in the
>frozen tundra. Might be pushing it then. I, as Tim did, will be
>putting in #2 for that exact reason. It gets mighty cold in WI
>from time to time. If I never left the warmer climates I wouldn't
>bother.
Don't understand this logic. Conductivity INCREASES as temperature decreases. If
you are talking about battery performance with temperature, well that's something
else and AFAIK not dependant on the cable attached.
That being said however the Van's ES WH 10 Kit uses #2 positive cable and the airframe
as ground per page OP37-12 of the electrical wiring harness instructions.
William Curtis
http://nerv10.com/
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
I am using two Odyssey 680s individually or in parallel for starting through
a #2 cable to the starter relay. together they can supply 680 amps each for
the first five seconds and then about 300.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Bienkowski" <joeb47@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Joe Bienkowski <joeb47@verizon.net>
>
> The situation is thus:
>
> The resistance of the cable, for any given size, does decrease
> with decreasing temperature. NOT a large decrease however.
>
> The ability of the battery to deliver full cranking current
> decreases with decreasing temperature. This is a BIG
> change.
>
> The requirement to crank the engine GREATLY increases
> with decreasing temperature.
>
> Therefore the larger wire size WILL help some.
>
> Best method to make a large improvement would be a
> larger battery or a gear drive starter motor.
>
> Joe Bienkowski, Bowling Green, OH
>
> William wrote:
>
>> >#4 would probably be fine unless you spend a lot of time in the
>> >frozen tundra. Might be pushing it then. I, as Tim did, will be
>> >putting in #2 for that exact reason. It gets mighty cold in WI
>> >from time to time. If I never left the warmer climates I wouldn't
>> >bother.
>>
>> Dont understand this logic. Conductivity INCREASES as temperature
>> decreases. If you are talking about battery performance with temperature,
>> well thats something else and AFAIK not dependant on the cable attached.
>>
>> That being said however the Vans ES WH 10 Kit uses #2 positive cable and
>> the airframe as ground per page OP37-12 of the electrical wiring harness
>> instructions.
>>
>> William Curtis
>> http://nerv10.com/
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Grand Rapids EFIS |
Sam, have a Dual GRT system in my hand and like almost everything about the
GRT system. Particularly the support. Try the yahoo group for more flying
info.
GRT_EFIS@yahoogroups.com
Bill S
7a fuse/panel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 9:25 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Grand Rapids EFIS
Does anyone have experience with the Grand Rapids EFIS 1? Flown it,
installed it, ect?
Sam Marlow
Instrument Panel RV10
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Grand Rapids EFIS |
Sam .. I have several, drop me an email off line and we can discuss or drop
by the web-site www.n142ds.com for picts and info.
Regards,
David Schaefer
Rv6-A N142DS "Geek One"
On 1/6/06, Bill Schlatterer <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> Sam, have a Dual GRT system in my hand and like almost everything about
> the GRT system. Particularly the support. Try the yahoo group for more
> flying info.
>
>
> GRT_EFIS@yahoogroups.com
>
>
> Bill S
> 7a fuse/panel
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Sam Marlow
> *Sent:* Friday, January 06, 2006 9:25 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Grand Rapids EFIS
>
> Does anyone have experience with the Grand Rapids EFIS 1? Flown it,
> installed it, ect?
> Sam Marlow
> Instrument Panel RV10
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
>The requirement to crank the engine GREATLY increases
>with decreasing temperature.
>
>Therefore the larger wire size WILL help some.
How so, as it relates to temperature?
The original premise was that it may be fine at regular temperature but not so
in the cold. I only submit that if the performance is sub-par at a lower temperature
it will also be sub-par at normal temperature. Thicker cable is indeed
better-there is no debate there. I only suggest that nothing with regard to
the cable has any dependency on the temperature. Certainly the lowered temperature
has an effect on the battery performance however.
William Curtis
http://nerv10.com/
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
You are only looking at the cable and battery performance. The colder it
is, the more force required to turn the engine(thicker oil, reduced
clearances, as well as more friction in the starter itself). More amps
needed to provide that torque, drastically more. If you look at the
stalled rotor draw of the starter you get an idea of what the peak draw
will be. Peak draw is what you are concerned with, not average draw. In
warm weather peak draw will be much lower, hence lighter cable can carry
the say 200 amps needed, where they might not carry the 350+amps drawn
in a cold start at or below freezing.
William wrote:
> >The requirement to crank the engine GREATLY increases
> >with decreasing temperature.
> >
> >Therefore the larger wire size WILL help some.
>
> How so, as it relates to temperature?
>
> The original premise was that it may be fine at regular temperature but
> not so in the cold. I only submit that if the performance is sub-par at
> a lower temperature it will also be sub-par at normal temperature.
> Thicker cable is indeed better-there is no debate there. I only suggest
> that nothing with regard to the cable has any dependency on the
> temperature. Certainly the lowered temperature has an effect on the
> battery performance however.
>
> William Curtis
> http://nerv10.com/
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Visit to Randy to measure control throws |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" <toaster73@earthlink.net>
Is the hole through your rear spar a "modified teardrop shape or a uniform
rectangle with rounded corners. I seem to remember seeing both types in
various website photos:
Look at the bottom 2 pictures on the following page on Mike Howe's or Tims
site:
http://www.etigerrr.com/Wings/september_6_2004.htm
and then this picture on William Curtis site
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/wings36.html
My cut outs are like Williams , maybe has something to do with it?
Chris Lucas
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Panning" <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Visit to Randy to measure control throws
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
>
> Hi, Randy was nice enough to let me take some
> measurements off of his airplane last night. We had a
> great time discussing RV-10's and admiring his
> airplane. Great motivation for anyone to keep at it.
> Now if it only stops raining in Portland...
>
> I was primarily interested in aileron throws. We
> measured the left wing aileron angle relative to the
> top wing skin. Full up is 35 degrees and full down is
> -12.6 degrees. To complete this motion, the actuator
> rod transits ~ 2.2 inches.
>
> Upper travel should be limited by the hard stop on the
> mounting angle. Lower travel, when wings attached to
> fuselage, is limited by the mechanical stop on the
> opposite wing. However, another check is the bellcrank
> should never be "over center".
>
> I have an issue on my plane, my full up travel is
> limited not by the mechanical stop, but by a clearance
> issue with the actuator rod and the lower surface of
> the hole in the rear spar. This could be addressed by
> opening it up more, but I'm surprised that it is there
> in the first place as everything is match drilled and
> the doubler plate hole matches the factory opening in
> the spar. Has anyone else seen this issue?
>
> I did not notice on Randy's plane if the same
> clearance issue exists. There is no clearance issue on
> the outboard edge of the hole as the range of travel
> when installed is not enough to touch the edge.
>
> Also measured elevator and trim travel.
>
> Elevator: Full up 4.9 degrees above horizontal plane
> Full down 33.2 degrees below horizontal
> plane
>
> Trim tab (left):
> Full down: 22 degrees down relative to trailing edge
> of elevator
> Full up: 6.4 degrees above relative to " " " "
>
> Trim tab (right):
> Full down: 21 degress down " " " " "
> Full up: 27.1 degrees up " " " " "
>
> Note: Full up travel is very different for L vs R tab.
>
> Eric
>
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Grand Rapids EFIS |
Geezeeeweezzee, so which screen plays Myth Busters? ;>)
-Chris Lucas
#40072
(nice plane)
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: David Schaefer
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 9:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Grand Rapids EFIS
Sam .. I have several, drop me an email off line and we can discuss or drop by the web-site www.n142ds.com for picts and info.
Regards,
David Schaefer
Rv6-A N142DS "Geek One"
On 1/6/06, Bill Schlatterer <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
Sam, have a Dual GRT system in my hand and like almost everything about the
GRT system. Particularly the support. Try the yahoo group for more flying info.
GRT_EFIS@yahoogroups.com
Bill S
7a fuse/panel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 9:25 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Grand Rapids EFIS
Does anyone have experience with the Grand Rapids EFIS 1? Flown it, installed
it, ect?
Sam Marlow
Instrument Panel RV10
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I think he just means that the actual load on the starter to crank
the very cold engine with it's also thicker oil and
everything else requires more battery power...even if you had
a nice warm battery capable of delivering all of it's
summertime current, it would take more to get it to crank
than in the summer.
I know what Michael means when he talks about his 4ga jumper cables.
We have consistent periods of 10 to 20 day in a row each winter where
every day is below zero. I've used cheap jumper cables to try to
start cars with weak batteries, but eventually I got a nice pair
of thick ones as a gift. They'll crank a car over much better than
the smaller wired ones. I've also actually seen with my own eyes,
battery cables with the insulation melted and sliding off because
the person cranked too long on the starter during times trying
to start the engine.
I just know that whenever I've tried to go flying and it's between
10 below and 10 above zero (yes, I keep a preheater plugged in
all winter long) it definitely doesn't start as easily and
having a well charged battery, with a battery blanket
attached can help get things started much easier. The 2GA wire
won't hurt. Nothing against the 4 for those who are lucky
enough to have that as a viable option.
Yeah, you may not want to move up here. ;)
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Panel Wiring
DO NOT ARCHIVE
William wrote:
> >The requirement to crank the engine GREATLY increases
> >with decreasing temperature.
> >
> >Therefore the larger wire size WILL help some.
>
> How so, as it relates to temperature?
>
> The original premise was that it may be fine at regular temperature but
> not so in the cold. I only submit that if the performance is sub-par at
> a lower temperature it will also be sub-par at normal temperature.
> Thicker cable is indeed better-there is no debate there. I only suggest
> that nothing with regard to the cable has any dependency on the
> temperature. Certainly the lowered temperature has an effect on the
> battery performance however.
>
> William Curtis
> http://nerv10.com/
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Forgot to mention...hence the reason I buy 1000+ CCA batteries
for my truck. You need it in the winter. The coldness
of the battery just adds to the need.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Panel Wiring
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Kelly McMullen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
>
> You are only looking at the cable and battery performance. The colder it
> is, the more force required to turn the engine(thicker oil, reduced
> clearances, as well as more friction in the starter itself). More amps
> needed to provide that torque, drastically more. If you look at the
> stalled rotor draw of the starter you get an idea of what the peak draw
> will be. Peak draw is what you are concerned with, not average draw. In
> warm weather peak draw will be much lower, hence lighter cable can carry
> the say 200 amps needed, where they might not carry the 350+amps drawn
> in a cold start at or below freezing.
>
> William wrote:
>
>> >The requirement to crank the engine GREATLY increases
>> >with decreasing temperature.
>> >
>> >Therefore the larger wire size WILL help some.
>>
>> How so, as it relates to temperature?
>>
>> The original premise was that it may be fine at regular temperature
>> but not so in the cold. I only submit that if the performance is
>> sub-par at a lower temperature it will also be sub-par at normal
>> temperature. Thicker cable is indeed better-there is no debate there.
>> I only suggest that nothing with regard to the cable has any
>> dependency on the temperature. Certainly the lowered temperature has
>> an effect on the battery performance however.
>>
>> William Curtis
>> http://nerv10.com/
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
For those looking for batteries; check out
http://www.enersysreservepower.com/ody_b.asp?routine=ody_spec&brandID=5 . I
am using dual 680s but a 925 mounted on a side will fit the kit battery
configuration.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Forgot to mention...hence the reason I buy 1000+ CCA batteries
> for my truck. You need it in the winter. The coldness
> of the battery just adds to the need.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current section: Panel Wiring
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
>>
>> You are only looking at the cable and battery performance. The colder it
>> is, the more force required to turn the engine(thicker oil, reduced
>> clearances, as well as more friction in the starter itself). More amps
>> needed to provide that torque, drastically more. If you look at the
>> stalled rotor draw of the starter you get an idea of what the peak draw
>> will be. Peak draw is what you are concerned with, not average draw. In
>> warm weather peak draw will be much lower, hence lighter cable can carry
>> the say 200 amps needed, where they might not carry the 350+amps drawn in
>> a cold start at or below freezing.
>>
>> William wrote:
>>
>>> >The requirement to crank the engine GREATLY increases
>>> >with decreasing temperature.
>>> >
>>> >Therefore the larger wire size WILL help some.
>>>
>>> How so, as it relates to temperature?
>>>
>>> The original premise was that it may be fine at regular temperature but
>>> not so in the cold. I only submit that if the performance is sub-par at
>>> a lower temperature it will also be sub-par at normal temperature.
>>> Thicker cable is indeed better-there is no debate there. I only suggest
>>> that nothing with regard to the cable has any dependency on the
>>> temperature. Certainly the lowered temperature has an effect on the
>>> battery performance however.
>>>
>>> William Curtis
>>> http://nerv10.com/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
Anyone using the FATWIRE battery cable from Periheliondesigns.com? Suppose to
be 45% lighter and more flexible? Twice tha cost though!!! Also, was looking to
do an Odessey 925 with a small SLA motorcycle battery as a backup in case of
ALT/BAT failure. Anyone done this.....if so what does your wiring diagram look
like and where did you mount the backup battery?. I would want the backup battery
on a separate circuit just to switch on in case alt or main battery failed..........would
like it to be charged while flying too.
Thanks,
DEAN
Anyone using the FATWIRE battery cable from Periheliondesigns.com? Suppose to be
45% lighter and more flexible?Twice tha cost though!!!Also, was looking to do
an Odessey 925 with a small SLA motorcycle battery as a backup in case of ALT/BAT
failure. Anyone done this.....if so what does your wiring diagram look like
and where did you mount the backup battery?. I would want the backup battery
on a separate circuit just to switch on in case alt or main battery failed..........would
like it to be charged while flyingtoo.
Thanks,
DEAN
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