Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:12 AM - Re: Windows (Jesse Saint [mailto)
2. 04:58 AM - IO-540 D2A For Sale (Kent Forsythe)
3. 06:09 AM - Re: Windows (Sam Marlow)
4. 06:22 AM - Re: RV10 Parts (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
5. 06:53 AM - Baggage Floor Dimension (David Hertner)
6. 06:58 AM - Re: Windows (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
7. 06:59 AM - Re: RV10 Parts (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
8. 07:18 AM - Hugo-rv10-sun and fun ()
9. 07:29 AM - GNS 480 Install Kit for Sale (Jack Loflin)
10. 07:34 AM - Re: Hugo-rv10-sun and fun (Steve Mills)
11. 07:45 AM - Re: Grand Rapids EFIS (pilotdds@aol.com)
12. 07:52 AM - Re: Interior Lighting (Conti, Rick)
13. 08:47 AM - Re: Suggestion on the needed tool. (John Gonzalez)
14. 09:23 AM - Re: Visit to Randy to measure control throws (Tim Olson)
15. 09:23 AM - Re: Windows (Tim Olson)
16. 09:36 AM - Re: Windows (Kelly McMullen)
17. 09:37 AM - Re: Windows (Gary Specketer)
18. 10:23 AM - Re: Windows (David McNeill)
19. 10:39 AM - Grumman crash (David McNeill)
20. 01:44 PM - Re: Baggage Floor Dimension (Marcus Cooper)
21. 03:50 PM - Re: Grand Rapids EFIS (David Schaefer)
22. 04:34 PM - E-Panelbuilder (Deems Davis)
23. 04:55 PM - Re: E-Panelbuilder (Larry Rosen)
24. 05:30 PM - Re: E-Panelbuilder (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
25. 05:31 PM - Re: E-Panelbuilder (Robert G. Wright)
26. 05:58 PM - Re: E-Panelbuilder (Deems Davis)
27. 06:32 PM - Re: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R (Mike Kraus)
28. 06:36 PM - Re: F1013-L Longeron Tist (Mike Kraus)
29. 07:04 PM - All New BBS Interface For Matronics List Forums! (Matt Dralle)
30. 07:19 PM - Re: Visit to Randy to measure control throws (Chris)
31. 08:13 PM - Re: Visit to Randy to measure control throws (Sean Stephens)
Message 1
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and is
available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30 min),
slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and cotton flox
seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well for
filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints.
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use Van's
recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder recommended.
It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to work
really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear, than the
stuff that Van's sells.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but
it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Subject: RV10-List: Windows
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the
windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used?
Sam Marlow
Fuse RV10
Message 2
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| Subject: | IO-540 D2A For Sale |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
A neighbor and fellow member of my EAA chapter (974) needs to sell his recently
purchased engine for financial reasons and I wanted to offer it up to the group
for those of you looking to get 300+ HP on your bird.
Specs
----------------
Magnum Engines Zero-timed IO-540 D2A with dual B&C alternators, B&C starter, high compression pistons, crank sensor for LightSpeed Ignition, first overhaul low-time core, and much more. Dyno-tested at 316HP see pictures at www.velocityxl.com and contact by phone at (513) 310-6124 or email at eszoke@velocityxl.com. $36,000 firm, paid much more.
----------------
Anyone interested should call them. I don't really know any of the details of
the engine. If I weren't so far away from needing mine, I'd be buying it myself.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Fuel Tanks (yuk)
Message 3
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Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows? Is
that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it
work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy,
and return the window glue to Van's?
Harris, Jeremy P wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
>
>Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and is
>available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30 min),
>slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and cotton flox
>seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well for
>filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints.
>
>
>Jeremy P. Harris
>Integrated Missile Defense
>BMDS Architectures Lab
>
>The Boeing Company
>Washington, DC
>Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
>Cell: (703) 627-6500
>Fax: (703) 414-6372
>MC: 793C-G007
>Office: 825B
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@itecusa.org]
>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
>We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use Van's
>recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder recommended.
>It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to work
>really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear, than the
>stuff that Van's sells.
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse@itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>Fax: 815-377-3694
>
>I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
>please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
>me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but
>it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Windows
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
>
>I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the
>windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used?
>Sam Marlow
>Fuse RV10
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
That looks fantastic. Is the base thick enough to be able to
countersink it for a #40 dimple because I prefer to use AN3-426 rivets
instead of the LP4 rivets. Are the holes already drilled to #30, or
could we get them with #40 holes instead?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 Parts
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Here's a link to pics of the items that Zack references, They are SWEET!
http://deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/index.html
Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/
Joseph Czachorowski wrote:
> *Deems,*
> **
> * Pics on the way to you to post. Dave will post it to his site when
> he gets caught up on the CNC stuff he has going.*
> **
> **
> * Btw, he is also working on a hydro-formed one piece Trim Tab Access
> panel that will replace the existing one. This Trim Tab Cover will
> have a "fairing" on it that is integral (one piece) with the Trim Tab
> Cover. He will have one ready in a couple of weeks. I'll post when
> it is finished.*
> **
>
> *Zack*
Message 5
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| Subject: | Baggage Floor Dimension |
Hello All,
I would appreciate it if someone would go out and measure the dimensions of the
baggage compartment floor for me. I need the clear area dimensions so please
measure from the inboard edge of any ribs or stringers.
Dave Hertner
40164 - Emp 99% complete
Message 6
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As you look at different materials to secure the windows, keep in mind the plexi
will expand and contract at different rates from the glues which will cause
cracking. Try to make sure the plexi isn't the weaker material.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows
Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows? Is that all
that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it work with Van's
window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy, and return the window
glue to Van's?
Harris, Jeremy P wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com> <mailto:jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
=09
Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and is
available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30 min),
slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and cotton flox
seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well for
filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints.
=09
=09
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
=09
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
=09
=09
-----Original Message-----
From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@itecusa.org]
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
=09
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org> <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
=09
We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use Van's
recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder recommended.
It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to work
really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear, than the
stuff that Van's sells.
=09
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but
it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
=09
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Windows
=09
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net> <mailto:sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
=09
I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the
windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used?
Sam Marlow
Fuse RV10
=09
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=09
=09
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Message 7
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Considering the stresses on this part in flight, I personally wouldn't go below
an AN426AD4. You don't want the bracket shearing the rivets off and fluttering
around back there. You can hide a flush AD4 as easily as a flush AD3.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Doerr, Ray R [NTK]
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV10 Parts
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
That looks fantastic. Is the base thick enough to be able to
countersink it for a #40 dimple because I prefer to use AN3-426 rivets
instead of the LP4 rivets. Are the holes already drilled to #30, or
could we get them with #40 holes instead?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 Parts
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Here's a link to pics of the items that Zack references, They are SWEET!
http://deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/index.html
Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/
Joseph Czachorowski wrote:
> *Deems,*
> **
> * Pics on the way to you to post. Dave will post it to his site when
> he gets caught up on the CNC stuff he has going.*
> **
> **
> * Btw, he is also working on a hydro-formed one piece Trim Tab Access
> panel that will replace the existing one. This Trim Tab Cover will
> have a "fairing" on it that is integral (one piece) with the Trim Tab
> Cover. He will have one ready in a couple of weeks. I'll post when
> it is finished.*
> **
>
> *Zack*
Message 8
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| Subject: | Hugo-rv10-sun and fun |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Good morning at all.
Sun and Fun is 3 months away,any body will come to purchase stuff?
I thinks if we use this remaining time to organize our purchase ,we can go in block
for differents items,hardw. instrum,avionics,belts,etc.
May be we can shave some pennies if we order togheter.
If is to stupid idea,forget,if not .lets organize,.
Hugo
Message 9
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| Subject: | GNS 480 Install Kit for Sale |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jack Loflin <loflinj@comcast.net>
Hi all,
I have a Garmin GNS 480 (formerly CNX 80 of UPSAT) install kit I'm trying to
get rid of. It was wired by Stark Avionics (the famous 'John Stark') and is
ready to be installed in your panel during construction. The 'black box' can
be slid into the tray at a later date when needed and money is available.
Make offer, anything considered! Please respond directly.
-Jack
Do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Hugo-rv10-sun and fun |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Steve Mills" <millstees@ameritech.net>
Hugo:
I'am going to Sun'N'Fun, and will be looking/evaluating, and purchasing, so
include me if you get something together.
Thanks,
Steve Mills
40486 just about to start wings
----- Original Message -----
From: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Hugo-rv10-sun and fun
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
> Good morning at all.
> Sun and Fun is 3 months away,any body will come to purchase stuff?
> I thinks if we use this remaining time to organize our purchase ,we can go
in block for differents items,hardw. instrum,avionics,belts,etc.
> May be we can shave some pennies if we order togheter.
> If is to stupid idea,forget,if not .lets organize,.
> Hugo
>
>
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Re: Grand Rapids EFIS |
It is a great system. Excellent company to work with.Installed 3 in my 10.
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Grand Rapids EFIS
Does anyone have experience with the Grand Rapids EFIS 1? Flown it, installed it,
ect?
Sam Marlow
Instrument Panel RV10
Message 12
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| Subject: | Interior Lighting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
I found a "unique" baggage compartment light. I installed a 30" tube
inside the cross brace. Notice when you open the baggage door all the
way you have access to the open end of the cross brace. The lights come
with mounting brackets. The brackets weren't easy to install, but it
can be done. I bought the tube at an automotive store. It's one of
those lights you attach to the chassis of your car. They come in
different colors, I selected blue. I installed a small rocker switch on
the cross brace near the door. The blue light lights the area great and
it doesn't not impair your night vision.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Rosen [mailto:LarryRosen@comcast.net]
Subject: RV10-List: Interior Lighting
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I am closing up the fuselage floors (hoping I have left enough access
for electrical runs) and I started thinking about interior lighting.
To light the baggage area is anyone installing lighting in either the
rear baggage door close out panel or in the rear seat bulkhead?
How about map lights for the rear passengers in the bulkhead?
What are some sources for interior lights?
Larry Rosen
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Suggestion on the needed tool. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Thanks for the direction, I placed the Avery order already. Too many holes
on the rear spar to wing it!
John
>From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Suggestion on the needed tool.
>Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 22:14:01 -0500
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>
>Avery has Vice grip dimplers for tight areas. There is also a pop rivet
>dimple tool, that you can use without the nail, and squeeze them with a
>pair of pliers
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
>Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 9:45 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Suggestion on the needed tool.
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez"
><indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>Hello all,
>
>I am trying to finish up dimpling all my elevator parts and have two
>problem
>areas. The last three holes in the elevator tip rib flange at the
>trailing
>edge are so close to the opposite flange there is no room to get in
>there.
>Are these three holes best to countersink even know the rib skin is
>thin?
>
>Lastly, the rear elevator spar is so narrow that again my pnuematic
>dimpler
>present a problem as the only way to get the male die to get into its
>hole
>is to carefully get the male dimple to start to move, then line it up
>and
>then go for it. Maybe I could do this with one hole but not the 200 or
>so,
>this is suicide. I do not own a hand squezer/rivetter. Any suggestions
>
>short of purchasing the manual dimpler?
>
>THANKS,
>
>John G. #40409
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Visit to Randy to measure control throws |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Definitely verify that you have clearance in this hole. At one
point when I tested it, a rivet on the rod that passes through
did get hung up on the hole edge and resulted in a "locked"
control. Sure, it probably could have been wiggled free,
but when you're at 5000' you don't want to have to play
around like that.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Panel Wiring
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Eric Panning wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
>
> Chris,
>
> Thanks for the links. Mine are like Mike Howe's and
> (like him) I traced the rounded off retangle into the
> doubler.
>
> Did your comes as teardrop from the factory? Looking
> at the photo's you can see the tear drop is bigger
> than the retangle. It is the the same shape and size I
> need to allow the aileron free travel to the stop.
>
> I think people should check their rear spar and verify
> that they have sufficient clearance. Don't rely on
> sound as it makes a "clunk" as if it hit the stop
> (when it's actually hitting the control rod).
>
> I subsequently spoke with Randy and he opened up his
> rectangle to more tear dropped for clearance as well.
>
> I wish I knew about this issue before I riveted the
> spar together but I'm glad that I know about it prior
> to flying. My numbers are you need about 1/4 inch
> additional clearance on the lower portion.
>
> If you are still working on the wing kit you can check
> this ahead of time by assembling the powder coated
> parts of the aileron control system. You need only get
> out the bellcrank, one aileron mount, cut the rod to
> length and drill for the threaded ends. You can you
> slide a rivet in to hold the ends on.
>
> What is it like on the quickbuild wings?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Eric
>
> --- Chris <toaster73@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris"
>><toaster73@earthlink.net>
>>
>>Is the hole through your rear spar a "modified
>>teardrop shape or a uniform
>>rectangle with rounded corners. I seem to remember
>>seeing both types in
>>various website photos:
>>Look at the bottom 2 pictures on the following page
>>on Mike Howe's or Tims
>>site:
>>http://www.etigerrr.com/Wings/september_6_2004.htm
>>and then this picture on William Curtis site
>>http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/wings36.html
>>
>>My cut outs are like Williams , maybe has something
>>to do with it?
>>
>>Chris Lucas
>>#40072
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Eric Panning" <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 1:46 PM
>>Subject: RV10-List: Visit to Randy to measure
>>control throws
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning
>>
>><ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
>>
>>>Hi, Randy was nice enough to let me take some
>>>measurements off of his airplane last night. We
>>
>>had a
>>
>>>great time discussing RV-10's and admiring his
>>>airplane. Great motivation for anyone to keep at
>>
>>it.
>>
>>>Now if it only stops raining in Portland...
>>>
>>>I was primarily interested in aileron throws. We
>>>measured the left wing aileron angle relative to
>>
>>the
>>
>>>top wing skin. Full up is 35 degrees and full down
>>
>>is
>>
>>>-12.6 degrees. To complete this motion, the
>>
>>actuator
>>
>>>rod transits ~ 2.2 inches.
>>>
>>>Upper travel should be limited by the hard stop on
>>
>>the
>>
>>>mounting angle. Lower travel, when wings attached
>>
>>to
>>
>>>fuselage, is limited by the mechanical stop on the
>>>opposite wing. However, another check is the
>>
>>bellcrank
>>
>>>should never be "over center".
>>>
>>>I have an issue on my plane, my full up travel is
>>>limited not by the mechanical stop, but by a
>>
>>clearance
>>
>>>issue with the actuator rod and the lower surface
>>
>>of
>>
>>>the hole in the rear spar. This could be addressed
>>
>>by
>>
>>>opening it up more, but I'm surprised that it is
>>
>>there
>>
>>>in the first place as everything is match drilled
>>
>>and
>>
>>>the doubler plate hole matches the factory opening
>>
>>in
>>
>>>the spar. Has anyone else seen this issue?
>>>
>>>I did not notice on Randy's plane if the same
>>>clearance issue exists. There is no clearance
>>
>>issue on
>>
>>>the outboard edge of the hole as the range of
>>
>>travel
>>
>>>when installed is not enough to touch the edge.
>>>
>>>Also measured elevator and trim travel.
>>>
>>>Elevator: Full up 4.9 degrees above horizontal
>>
>>plane
>>
>>> Full down 33.2 degrees below horizontal
>>>plane
>>>
>>>Trim tab (left):
>>>Full down: 22 degrees down relative to trailing
>>
>>edge
>>
>>>of elevator
>>>Full up: 6.4 degrees above relative to " " " "
>>>
>>>Trim tab (right):
>>>Full down: 21 degress down " " " " "
>>>Full up: 27.1 degrees up " " " " "
>>>
>>>Note: Full up travel is very different for L vs R
>>
>>tab.
>>
>>>Eric
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>browse
>>Subscriptions page,
>>FAQ,
>>
>>Admin.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I think he just recommended the Epoxy in general. I would NOT
want to use Epoxy to hold the windows in.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Panel Wiring
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Sam Marlow wrote:
> Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows? Is
> that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it
> work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy,
> and return the window glue to Van's?
>
> Harris, Jeremy P wrote:
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
>>
>>Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and is
>>available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30 min),
>>slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and cotton flox
>>seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well for
>>filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints.
>>
>>
>>Jeremy P. Harris
>>Integrated Missile Defense
>>BMDS Architectures Lab
>>
>>The Boeing Company
>>Washington, DC
>>Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
>>Cell: (703) 627-6500
>>Fax: (703) 414-6372
>>MC: 793C-G007
>>Office: 825B
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@itecusa.org]
>>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>>
>>We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use Van's
>>recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder recommended.
>>It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to work
>>really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear, than the
>>stuff that Van's sells.
>>
>>Jesse Saint
>>I-TEC, Inc.
>>jesse@itecusa.org
>>www.itecusa.org
>>Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>>I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
>>please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
>>me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but
>>it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
>>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RV10-List: Windows
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
>>
>>I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the
>>windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used?
>>Sam Marlow
>>Fuse RV10
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
Message 16
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|
<F41721589FD32845986D224A3FF40A2A01D79978@XCH-NW-2V2.nw.nos.boeing.com>
<43C26E7D.4060500@adelphia.net> <43C29C12.8030705@MyRV10.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
You might consider the non-hardening variety of PRC that is used for tank
inspection plates. It is what Mooney specifies for sealing all windows in
their production aircraft. The non-hardening version has two advantages,
it is a bit more pliable for expansion/contraction, and it cleans up with
high grade isopropyl alcohol...no concern with damaging the plexi.
Tim Olson said:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I think he just recommended the Epoxy in general. I would NOT
> want to use Epoxy to hold the windows in.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current section: Panel Wiring
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Sam Marlow wrote:
>> Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows? Is
>> that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it
>> work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy,
>> and return the window glue to Van's?
>>
>> Harris, Jeremy P wrote:
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P"
>>> <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
>>>
>>>Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and is
>>>available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30 min),
>>>slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and cotton flox
>>>seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well for
>>>filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints.
>>>
>>>
>>>Jeremy P. Harris
>>>Integrated Missile Defense
>>>BMDS Architectures Lab
>>>
>>>The Boeing Company
>>>Washington, DC
>>>Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
>>>Cell: (703) 627-6500
>>>Fax: (703) 414-6372
>>>MC: 793C-G007
>>>Office: 825B
>>>
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@itecusa.org]
>>>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM
>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
>>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>>>
>>>We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use Van's
>>>recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder recommended.
>>>It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to work
>>>really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear, than the
>>>stuff that Van's sells.
>>>
>>>Jesse Saint
>>>I-TEC, Inc.
>>>jesse@itecusa.org
>>>www.itecusa.org
>>>Fax: 815-377-3694
>>>
>>>I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
>>>please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
>>>me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but
>>>it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
>>>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM
>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: RV10-List: Windows
>>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
>>>
>>>I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the
>>>windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used?
>>>Sam Marlow
>>>Fuse RV10
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
Message 17
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
All Glasair/Glastar aircraft use Vinyl Ester epoxy to hold all there windows
in. It works great but the install is different than Van's method.
Gary Specketer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I think he just recommended the Epoxy in general. I would NOT want to use
Epoxy to hold the windows in.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Panel Wiring
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Sam Marlow wrote:
> Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows?
> Is
> that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it
> work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy,
> and return the window glue to Van's?
>
> Harris, Jeremy P wrote:
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P"
>>--> <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
>>
>>Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and
>>is available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30
>>min), slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and
>>cotton flox seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well
for
>>filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints.
>>
>>
>>Jeremy P. Harris
>>Integrated Missile Defense
>>BMDS Architectures Lab
>>
>>The Boeing Company
>>Washington, DC
>>Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
>>Cell: (703) 627-6500
>>Fax: (703) 414-6372
>>MC: 793C-G007
>>Office: 825B
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@itecusa.org]
>>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>>
>>We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use
>>Van's recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder
>>recommended. It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It
>>seems to work really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I
>>hear, than the stuff that Van's sells.
>>
>>Jesse Saint
>>I-TEC, Inc.
>>jesse@itecusa.org
>>www.itecusa.org
>>Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>>I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding
>>I-TEC, please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to
>>talk to me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always
>>be on, but it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
>>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RV10-List: Windows
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
>>
>>I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the
>>windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used?
>>Sam Marlow Fuse RV10
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
Message 18
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
If you use the Glastar method you need to be sure to get it right the first
time. We worked with Phoenix Composites to get it right. Probably will use
the same methods for the 10.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
>
> All Glasair/Glastar aircraft use Vinyl Ester epoxy to hold all there
> windows
> in. It works great but the install is different than Van's method.
> Gary Specketer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 12:24 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I think he just recommended the Epoxy in general. I would NOT want to use
> Epoxy to hold the windows in.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current section: Panel Wiring
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Sam Marlow wrote:
>> Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows?
>> Is
>> that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it
>> work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy,
>> and return the window glue to Van's?
>>
>> Harris, Jeremy P wrote:
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P"
>>>--> <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
>>>
>>>Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and
>>>is available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30
>>>min), slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and
>>>cotton flox seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work
>>>well
> for
>>>filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints.
>>>
>>>
>>>Jeremy P. Harris
>>>Integrated Missile Defense
>>>BMDS Architectures Lab
>>>
>>>The Boeing Company
>>>Washington, DC
>>>Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
>>>Cell: (703) 627-6500
>>>Fax: (703) 414-6372
>>>MC: 793C-G007
>>>Office: 825B
>>>
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@itecusa.org]
>>>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM
>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
>>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>>>
>>>We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use
>>>Van's recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder
>>>recommended. It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It
>>>seems to work really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I
>>>hear, than the stuff that Van's sells.
>>>
>>>Jesse Saint
>>>I-TEC, Inc.
>>>jesse@itecusa.org
>>>www.itecusa.org
>>>Fax: 815-377-3694
>>>
>>>I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding
>>>I-TEC, please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to
>>>talk to me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always
>>>be on, but it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
>>>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM
>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: RV10-List: Windows
>>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
>>>
>>>I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the
>>>windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used?
>>>Sam Marlow Fuse RV10
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
Message 19
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|
members of the list may be interested in the misdrilled rivet hole in the spar
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Baggage Floor Dimension |
Dave,
Here are the dimensions from my machine clear of any
obstructions:
Aft wall 33.5"
Forward (just aft of the rear seat angle at floor level): 40"
Front to back: 28"
Hope this is what you were looking for,
Marcus
40286, finally back to work - trimming the top
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Hertner
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Floor Dimension
Hello All,
I would appreciate it if someone would go out and measure the dimensions of
the baggage compartment floor for me. I need the clear area dimensions so
please measure from the inboard edge of any ribs or stringers.
Dave Hertner
40164 - Emp 99% complete
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Grand Rapids EFIS |
It's easy to fly and moderately easy to install. Drop me a line off group
and I'll be happy to answer any questions. You can check out the pictures
on my web site.
Regards,
David Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS
www.n142ds.com
On 1/9/06, pilotdds@aol.com <pilotdds@aol.com> wrote:
>
> It is a great system. Excellent company to work with.Installed 3 in my
> 10.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Fri, 06 Jan 2006 10:25:26 -0500
> Subject: RV10-List: Grand Rapids EFIS
>
> Does anyone have experience with the Grand Rapids EFIS 1? Flown it,
> installed it, ect?
> Sam Marlow
> Instrument Panel RV10
>
>
Message 22
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Anybody know what happened to epanelbuilder.com ??
Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: E-Panelbuilder |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
It seems to be working fine for me. I could not get it to work in Fire
Fox had to use Internet explorer.
Larry Rosen
do not archive
Deems Davis wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> Anybody know what happened to epanelbuilder.com ??
>
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Wings
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 24
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|
He's in the process of completely reworking the site. He had mentioned to me
last week that he was going to have myself and others begin beta testing it for
him today but I haven't heard anything. The site may have went down during
upgrades for this testing. From what I've been hearing it will be much better
than it is now.
Michael
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Subject: RV10-List: E-Panelbuilder
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Anybody know what happened to epanelbuilder.com ??
Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 25
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
Shameless plug for xpanelbuilder.com by someone who isn't affiliated with
them. I have the free 1.2.9 beta version, and they might have the full ($$)
version out by now.
It uses a grid-aligned panel, runs a schematic of components and cost, and
I'm sure way more things than I've discovered so far.
Best thing I like so far is that it's not cookie dependent like the
online-based one is (At least I saved a .gif of that one before it reset).
Rob
#392
Tailcone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Subject: Re: RV10-List: E-Panelbuilder
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
It seems to be working fine for me. I could not get it to work in Fire
Fox had to use Internet explorer.
Larry Rosen
do not archive
Deems Davis wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> Anybody know what happened to epanelbuilder.com ??
>
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Wings
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: E-Panelbuilder |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
ah ha ! That seems to be the problem, I'll have to make an adjustment!
Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/
Larry Rosen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
> It seems to be working fine for me. I could not get it to work in
> Fire Fox had to use Internet explorer.
>
> Larry Rosen
> do not archive
>
> Deems Davis wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>>
>> Anybody know what happened to epanelbuilder.com ??
>>
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> Wings
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R |
Talk to Van's. When I was talking to them about this, they mentioned it
may be rolled from the factory now. Not sure if they were talking about
the front or the rear, but they were working on having them formed from
the factory.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos
Napoli
Subject: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
I tried to bend the F1070R fuse skin yesterday. It didn't go too well.
I ended up with a tear in the skin at the forward end of the bend line.
I think my problem was that instead of making the bending block out of
hardwood I used 2 by 6 construction lumber which is much weeker. As a
result the edge of the bending block broke. Ordered new skin ($75) and
a will be getting a piece of oak to make the new bending block. Has
anyone had a similar experience? Any suggestions on this?
Niko
40188 Fuselage
Message 28
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| Subject: | F1013-L Longeron Tist |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
I believe the right one is bent to match one side of the template and
the left side is bent to match the other side of the template. If you
look at the template drawing in the plans and then look a couple of
pages further, it will show both the top and bottom of the template and
it will be labeled which side is left and right. The parts should be
mirror images except the left one has a bunch more hole where the
doubler rivets on over the baggage door.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos
Napoli
Subject: Re: RV10-List: F1013-L Longeron Tist
--> RV10-List message posted by: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188@yahoo.com>
Hi Ron,
I just finished going through that step. I twisted both the left and
right one as it seems to me that they should be identical at the fwd
end. I am not 100% sure though.
Niko
----- Original Message ----
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
Subject: RV10-List: F1013-L Longeron Tist
G'day all,
Happy New Year from Oz!!
Have spent some time bending the fuse longerons. Plans have you mark
fwd/aft twist marks and start/end bend marks on the F1013 left and right
longerons. The plans only call for the right Longeron to be twisted.
Is the left longeron twisted at the forward twist mark?
thanks in advance
Ron
40187 fuse
Message 29
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| Subject: | All New BBS Interface For Matronics List Forums! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
I'm very proud to announce a completely new BBS interface is now available for
all of the Email Lists at Matronics! This is a full-featured system that allows
for viewing, posting, attachments, polls - the works.
But the best part is that it is *completely* integrated with all of the existing
email tools currently available at Matronics! What this means at the most basic
level is that, if you post a message to List from Email in the traditional
way, it will show up on the BBS system *and* get distributed to everyone currently
subscribed to the Email List. By the same token, if you are on the BBS
and post a message to a given List-Forum, the message will not only show up on
the BBS, but also be distributed to everyone on the Email List!!
It is really a very nice implementation and I am very pleased with its operation.
All of the tools you have come to know and love such as the List Search Engine
and List Browse and Download will still be available and contain all of the
latest posts. Think of the new BBS interface as just another method of accessing
the all of the Lists.
You can use the BBS to view all of the latest posts without having to do anything
except use your browser to surf over to the site. You can view and look at
all of the various List's posts. If you want to post a new message or reply
to an existing message from the BBS, you will have to Register on the BBS. This
is a *very* simple process and will only take a couple of minutes. There is
a small icon in the upper righthand side of the main BBS page labeled "Register"
to get you started.
I strongly recommend that you use the exact *same* email address you are subscribed
to the Email Lists with when registering on the BBS. Also, while not an
absolute requirement, I would really appreciate it if people would use their full
name when choosing their Username on the BBS (for example "Matt Dralle").
This just makes it easier for everyone to know who's posting. Also, I have enabled
the ability to upload a small user picture with your profile called an
"avatar". Please use a *real* picture of yourself *with* your cloths on! Thank
you! Maximum size of the bitmap is 120x120.
You can either be subscribed to the BBS, or any number of Email Lists, or both.
Registering on the BBS will allow you to email directly to all of the various
Lists. However, to receive direct List Email, you will need to be *subscribed*
to the various Lists as you have in the past. No changes here in operation.
I have added numerous links on the BBS pointing to the Email List subscription
page.
I've had the BBS connected to the Lists for about a week now, so its already loaded
up with a fair number of messages. You can post photos and other documents
directly to the BBS and links to them will appear in the List Email distributions.
Also, when any messages posted to the BBS are viewed in the List Email
distribution, there will be a URL link at the bottom of the message pointing
back to the BBS.
And here's what you've been waiting for -- the main URL for the new Matronics Email
List BBS is:
http://forums.matronics.com
Please surf on over, Register, and have a great time! I think this will be the
dawn of a whole new era for the Lists at Matronics!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Visit to Randy to measure control throws |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" <toaster73@earthlink.net>
My rear spar (slow build) came with the tear drop shape hole. I have set up
the aileron control already except for the fuel tank end. If I move the
aileron the 12.6 deg's I have no issue, I need a helper to see what angle
results in a rub of the rod to the spar, maybe 15 degrees. It is barely
good, so once I get everything on for "real" I will be looking at it again.
-Chris
#40072
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
>
> Chris,
>
> Thanks for the links. Mine are like Mike Howe's and
> (like him) I traced the rounded off retangle into the
> doubler.
>
> Did your comes as teardrop from the factory? Looking
> at the photo's you can see the tear drop is bigger
> than the retangle. It is the the same shape and size I
> need to allow the aileron free travel to the stop.
>
> I think people should check their rear spar and verify
> that they have sufficient clearance. Don't rely on
> sound as it makes a "clunk" as if it hit the stop
> (when it's actually hitting the control rod).
>
> I subsequently spoke with Randy and he opened up his
> rectangle to more tear dropped for clearance as well.
>
> I wish I knew about this issue before I riveted the
> spar together but I'm glad that I know about it prior
> to flying. My numbers are you need about 1/4 inch
> additional clearance on the lower portion.
>
> If you are still working on the wing kit you can check
> this ahead of time by assembling the powder coated
> parts of the aileron control system. You need only get
> out the bellcrank, one aileron mount, cut the rod to
> length and drill for the threaded ends. You can you
> slide a rivet in to hold the ends on.
>
> What is it like on the quickbuild wings?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Eric
>
> --- Chris <toaster73@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris"
>> <toaster73@earthlink.net>
>>
>> Is the hole through your rear spar a "modified
>> teardrop shape or a uniform
>> rectangle with rounded corners. I seem to remember
>> seeing both types in
>> various website photos:
>> Look at the bottom 2 pictures on the following page
>> on Mike Howe's or Tims
>> site:
>> http://www.etigerrr.com/Wings/september_6_2004.htm
>> and then this picture on William Curtis site
>> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/wings36.html
>>
>> My cut outs are like Williams , maybe has something
>> to do with it?
>>
>> Chris Lucas
>> #40072
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Visit to Randy to measure control throws |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
My slowbuild wings came with the rectangle instead of the teardrop.
Guess I'll have to keep that in mind as I'm getting to that point soon.
Thanks
-Sean #40303
do not archive
Chris wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" <toaster73@earthlink.net>
>
> My rear spar (slow build) came with the tear drop shape hole. I have
> set up the aileron control already except for the fuel tank end. If I
> move the aileron the 12.6 deg's I have no issue, I need a helper to
> see what angle results in a rub of the rod to the spar, maybe 15
> degrees. It is barely good, so once I get everything on for "real" I
> will be looking at it again.
> -Chris
> #40072
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning
>> <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
>>
>> Chris,
>>
>> Thanks for the links. Mine are like Mike Howe's and
>> (like him) I traced the rounded off retangle into the
>> doubler.
>>
>> Did your comes as teardrop from the factory? Looking
>> at the photo's you can see the tear drop is bigger
>> than the retangle. It is the the same shape and size I
>> need to allow the aileron free travel to the stop.
>>
>> I think people should check their rear spar and verify
>> that they have sufficient clearance. Don't rely on
>> sound as it makes a "clunk" as if it hit the stop
>> (when it's actually hitting the control rod).
>>
>> I subsequently spoke with Randy and he opened up his
>> rectangle to more tear dropped for clearance as well.
>>
>> I wish I knew about this issue before I riveted the
>> spar together but I'm glad that I know about it prior
>> to flying. My numbers are you need about 1/4 inch
>> additional clearance on the lower portion.
>>
>> If you are still working on the wing kit you can check
>> this ahead of time by assembling the powder coated
>> parts of the aileron control system. You need only get
>> out the bellcrank, one aileron mount, cut the rod to
>> length and drill for the threaded ends. You can you
>> slide a rivet in to hold the ends on.
>>
>> What is it like on the quickbuild wings?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> --- Chris <toaster73@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris"
>>> <toaster73@earthlink.net>
>>>
>>> Is the hole through your rear spar a "modified
>>> teardrop shape or a uniform
>>> rectangle with rounded corners. I seem to remember
>>> seeing both types in
>>> various website photos:
>>> Look at the bottom 2 pictures on the following page
>>> on Mike Howe's or Tims
>>> site:
>>> http://www.etigerrr.com/Wings/september_6_2004.htm
>>> and then this picture on William Curtis site
>>> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/wings36.html
>>>
>>> My cut outs are like Williams , maybe has something
>>> to do with it?
>>>
>>> Chris Lucas
>>> #40072
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
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