---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 01/09/06: 31 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:12 AM - Re: Windows (Jesse Saint [mailto) 2. 04:58 AM - IO-540 D2A For Sale (Kent Forsythe) 3. 06:09 AM - Re: Windows (Sam Marlow) 4. 06:22 AM - Re: RV10 Parts (Doerr, Ray R [NTK]) 5. 06:53 AM - Baggage Floor Dimension (David Hertner) 6. 06:58 AM - Re: Windows (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 7. 06:59 AM - Re: RV10 Parts (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 8. 07:18 AM - Hugo-rv10-sun and fun () 9. 07:29 AM - GNS 480 Install Kit for Sale (Jack Loflin) 10. 07:34 AM - Re: Hugo-rv10-sun and fun (Steve Mills) 11. 07:45 AM - Re: Grand Rapids EFIS (pilotdds@aol.com) 12. 07:52 AM - Re: Interior Lighting (Conti, Rick) 13. 08:47 AM - Re: Suggestion on the needed tool. (John Gonzalez) 14. 09:23 AM - Re: Visit to Randy to measure control throws (Tim Olson) 15. 09:23 AM - Re: Windows (Tim Olson) 16. 09:36 AM - Re: Windows (Kelly McMullen) 17. 09:37 AM - Re: Windows (Gary Specketer) 18. 10:23 AM - Re: Windows (David McNeill) 19. 10:39 AM - Grumman crash (David McNeill) 20. 01:44 PM - Re: Baggage Floor Dimension (Marcus Cooper) 21. 03:50 PM - Re: Grand Rapids EFIS (David Schaefer) 22. 04:34 PM - E-Panelbuilder (Deems Davis) 23. 04:55 PM - Re: E-Panelbuilder (Larry Rosen) 24. 05:30 PM - Re: E-Panelbuilder (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 25. 05:31 PM - Re: E-Panelbuilder (Robert G. Wright) 26. 05:58 PM - Re: E-Panelbuilder (Deems Davis) 27. 06:32 PM - Re: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R (Mike Kraus) 28. 06:36 PM - Re: F1013-L Longeron Tist (Mike Kraus) 29. 07:04 PM - All New BBS Interface For Matronics List Forums! (Matt Dralle) 30. 07:19 PM - Re: Visit to Randy to measure control throws (Chris) 31. 08:13 PM - Re: Visit to Randy to measure control throws (Sean Stephens) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:12:48 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows --> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P" Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and is available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30 min), slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and cotton flox seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well for filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints. Jeremy P. Harris Integrated Missile Defense BMDS Architectures Lab The Boeing Company Washington, DC Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T Cell: (703) 627-6500 Fax: (703) 414-6372 MC: 793C-G007 Office: 825B -----Original Message----- From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@itecusa.org] Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use Van's recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder recommended. It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to work really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear, than the stuff that Van's sells. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org Fax: 815-377-3694 I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC, please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow Subject: RV10-List: Windows --> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used? Sam Marlow Fuse RV10 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:58:17 AM PST US From: Kent Forsythe Subject: RV10-List: IO-540 D2A For Sale --> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe A neighbor and fellow member of my EAA chapter (974) needs to sell his recently purchased engine for financial reasons and I wanted to offer it up to the group for those of you looking to get 300+ HP on your bird. Specs ---------------- Magnum Engines Zero-timed IO-540 D2A with dual B&C alternators, B&C starter, high compression pistons, crank sensor for LightSpeed Ignition, first overhaul low-time core, and much more. Dyno-tested at 316HP see pictures at www.velocityxl.com and contact by phone at (513) 310-6124 or email at eszoke@velocityxl.com. $36,000 firm, paid much more. ---------------- Anyone interested should call them. I don't really know any of the details of the engine. If I weren't so far away from needing mine, I'd be buying it myself. Kent Forsythe 40338 Fuel Tanks (yuk) ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:09:58 AM PST US From: Sam Marlow Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows? Is that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy, and return the window glue to Van's? Harris, Jeremy P wrote: >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P" > >Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and is >available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30 min), >slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and cotton flox >seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well for >filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints. > > >Jeremy P. Harris >Integrated Missile Defense >BMDS Architectures Lab > >The Boeing Company >Washington, DC >Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T >Cell: (703) 627-6500 >Fax: (703) 414-6372 >MC: 793C-G007 >Office: 825B > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@itecusa.org] >Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows > >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" > >We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use Van's >recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder recommended. >It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to work >really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear, than the >stuff that Van's sells. > >Jesse Saint >I-TEC, Inc. >jesse@itecusa.org >www.itecusa.org >Fax: 815-377-3694 > >I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC, >please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to >me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but >it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador. > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow >Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Windows > >--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow > >I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the >windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used? >Sam Marlow >Fuse RV10 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:22:46 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV10 Parts From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" --> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" That looks fantastic. Is the base thick enough to be able to countersink it for a #40 dimple because I prefer to use AN3-426 rivets instead of the LP4 rivets. Are the holes already drilled to #30, or could we get them with #40 holes instead? Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 Parts --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis Here's a link to pics of the items that Zack references, They are SWEET! http://deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/index.html Deems Davis # 406 Wings http://deemsrv10.com/ Joseph Czachorowski wrote: > *Deems,* > ** > * Pics on the way to you to post. Dave will post it to his site when > he gets caught up on the CNC stuff he has going.* > ** > ** > * Btw, he is also working on a hydro-formed one piece Trim Tab Access > panel that will replace the existing one. This Trim Tab Cover will > have a "fairing" on it that is integral (one piece) with the Trim Tab > Cover. He will have one ready in a couple of weeks. I'll post when > it is finished.* > ** > > *Zack* ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:53:02 AM PST US From: "David Hertner" Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Floor Dimension Hello All, I would appreciate it if someone would go out and measure the dimensions of the baggage compartment floor for me. I need the clear area dimensions so please measure from the inboard edge of any ribs or stringers. Dave Hertner 40164 - Emp 99% complete ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:58:41 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" As you look at different materials to secure the windows, keep in mind the plexi will expand and contract at different rates from the glues which will cause cracking. Try to make sure the plexi isn't the weaker material. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Fuselage ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows? Is that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy, and return the window glue to Van's? Harris, Jeremy P wrote: --> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P" =09 Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and is available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30 min), slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and cotton flox seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well for filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints. =09 =09 Jeremy P. Harris Integrated Missile Defense BMDS Architectures Lab =09 The Boeing Company Washington, DC Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T Cell: (703) 627-6500 Fax: (703) 414-6372 MC: 793C-G007 Office: 825B =09 =09 -----Original Message----- From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@itecusa.org] Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM To: rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows =09 --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" =09 We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use Van's recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder recommended. It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to work really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear, than the stuff that Van's sells. =09 Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org Fax: 815-377-3694 I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC, please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador. =09 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM To: rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Windows =09 --> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow =09 I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used? Sam Marlow Fuse RV10 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:59:12 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV10 Parts From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" Considering the stresses on this part in flight, I personally wouldn't go below an AN426AD4. You don't want the bracket shearing the rivets off and fluttering around back there. You can hide a flush AD4 as easily as a flush AD3. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Fuselage ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Doerr, Ray R [NTK] Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV10 Parts --> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" That looks fantastic. Is the base thick enough to be able to countersink it for a #40 dimple because I prefer to use AN3-426 rivets instead of the LP4 rivets. Are the holes already drilled to #30, or could we get them with #40 holes instead? Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 Parts --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis Here's a link to pics of the items that Zack references, They are SWEET! http://deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/index.html Deems Davis # 406 Wings http://deemsrv10.com/ Joseph Czachorowski wrote: > *Deems,* > ** > * Pics on the way to you to post. Dave will post it to his site when > he gets caught up on the CNC stuff he has going.* > ** > ** > * Btw, he is also working on a hydro-formed one piece Trim Tab Access > panel that will replace the existing one. This Trim Tab Cover will > have a "fairing" on it that is integral (one piece) with the Trim Tab > Cover. He will have one ready in a couple of weeks. I'll post when > it is finished.* > ** > > *Zack* ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:18:50 AM PST US From: Subject: RV10-List: Hugo-rv10-sun and fun --> RV10-List message posted by: Good morning at all. Sun and Fun is 3 months away,any body will come to purchase stuff? I thinks if we use this remaining time to organize our purchase ,we can go in block for differents items,hardw. instrum,avionics,belts,etc. May be we can shave some pennies if we order togheter. If is to stupid idea,forget,if not .lets organize,. Hugo ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 07:29:58 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: GNS 480 Install Kit for Sale From: Jack Loflin --> RV10-List message posted by: Jack Loflin Hi all, I have a Garmin GNS 480 (formerly CNX 80 of UPSAT) install kit I'm trying to get rid of. It was wired by Stark Avionics (the famous 'John Stark') and is ready to be installed in your panel during construction. The 'black box' can be slid into the tray at a later date when needed and money is available. Make offer, anything considered! Please respond directly. -Jack Do not archive ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 07:34:03 AM PST US From: "Steve Mills" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hugo-rv10-sun and fun --> RV10-List message posted by: "Steve Mills" Hugo: I'am going to Sun'N'Fun, and will be looking/evaluating, and purchasing, so include me if you get something together. Thanks, Steve Mills 40486 just about to start wings ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV10-List: Hugo-rv10-sun and fun > --> RV10-List message posted by: > > Good morning at all. > Sun and Fun is 3 months away,any body will come to purchase stuff? > I thinks if we use this remaining time to organize our purchase ,we can go in block for differents items,hardw. instrum,avionics,belts,etc. > May be we can shave some pennies if we order togheter. > If is to stupid idea,forget,if not .lets organize,. > Hugo > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 07:45:18 AM PST US From: pilotdds@aol.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Grand Rapids EFIS It is a great system. Excellent company to work with.Installed 3 in my 10. -----Original Message----- From: Sam Marlow Subject: RV10-List: Grand Rapids EFIS Does anyone have experience with the Grand Rapids EFIS 1? Flown it, installed it, ect? Sam Marlow Instrument Panel RV10 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 07:52:06 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Interior Lighting From: "Conti, Rick" --> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" I found a "unique" baggage compartment light. I installed a 30" tube inside the cross brace. Notice when you open the baggage door all the way you have access to the open end of the cross brace. The lights come with mounting brackets. The brackets weren't easy to install, but it can be done. I bought the tube at an automotive store. It's one of those lights you attach to the chassis of your car. They come in different colors, I selected blue. I installed a small rocker switch on the cross brace near the door. The blue light lights the area great and it doesn't not impair your night vision. Thank You Rick Conti office: 703-414-6141 cell: 571-215-6134 -----Original Message----- From: Larry Rosen [mailto:LarryRosen@comcast.net] Subject: RV10-List: Interior Lighting --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen I am closing up the fuselage floors (hoping I have left enough access for electrical runs) and I started thinking about interior lighting. To light the baggage area is anyone installing lighting in either the rear baggage door close out panel or in the rear seat bulkhead? How about map lights for the rear passengers in the bulkhead? What are some sources for interior lights? Larry Rosen ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 08:47:46 AM PST US From: "John Gonzalez" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Suggestion on the needed tool. --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" Thanks for the direction, I placed the Avery order already. Too many holes on the rear spar to wing it! John >From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." >Reply-To: rv10-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Suggestion on the needed tool. >Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 22:14:01 -0500 > >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." > >Avery has Vice grip dimplers for tight areas. There is also a pop rivet >dimple tool, that you can use without the nail, and squeeze them with a >pair of pliers > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez >Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 9:45 PM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Suggestion on the needed tool. > >--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" > > >Hello all, > >I am trying to finish up dimpling all my elevator parts and have two >problem >areas. The last three holes in the elevator tip rib flange at the >trailing >edge are so close to the opposite flange there is no room to get in >there. >Are these three holes best to countersink even know the rib skin is >thin? > >Lastly, the rear elevator spar is so narrow that again my pnuematic >dimpler >present a problem as the only way to get the male die to get into its >hole >is to carefully get the male dimple to start to move, then line it up >and >then go for it. Maybe I could do this with one hole but not the 200 or >so, >this is suicide. I do not own a hand squezer/rivetter. Any suggestions > >short of purchasing the manual dimpler? > >THANKS, > >John G. #40409 > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 09:23:07 AM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Visit to Randy to measure control throws --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Definitely verify that you have clearance in this hole. At one point when I tested it, a rivet on the rod that passes through did get hung up on the hole edge and resulted in a "locked" control. Sure, it probably could have been wiggled free, but when you're at 5000' you don't want to have to play around like that. Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 Current section: Panel Wiring DO NOT ARCHIVE Eric Panning wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning > > Chris, > > Thanks for the links. Mine are like Mike Howe's and > (like him) I traced the rounded off retangle into the > doubler. > > Did your comes as teardrop from the factory? Looking > at the photo's you can see the tear drop is bigger > than the retangle. It is the the same shape and size I > need to allow the aileron free travel to the stop. > > I think people should check their rear spar and verify > that they have sufficient clearance. Don't rely on > sound as it makes a "clunk" as if it hit the stop > (when it's actually hitting the control rod). > > I subsequently spoke with Randy and he opened up his > rectangle to more tear dropped for clearance as well. > > I wish I knew about this issue before I riveted the > spar together but I'm glad that I know about it prior > to flying. My numbers are you need about 1/4 inch > additional clearance on the lower portion. > > If you are still working on the wing kit you can check > this ahead of time by assembling the powder coated > parts of the aileron control system. You need only get > out the bellcrank, one aileron mount, cut the rod to > length and drill for the threaded ends. You can you > slide a rivet in to hold the ends on. > > What is it like on the quickbuild wings? > > Thanks, > > Eric > > --- Chris wrote: > > >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" >> >> >>Is the hole through your rear spar a "modified >>teardrop shape or a uniform >>rectangle with rounded corners. I seem to remember >>seeing both types in >>various website photos: >>Look at the bottom 2 pictures on the following page >>on Mike Howe's or Tims >>site: >>http://www.etigerrr.com/Wings/september_6_2004.htm >>and then this picture on William Curtis site >>http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/wings36.html >> >>My cut outs are like Williams , maybe has something >>to do with it? >> >>Chris Lucas >>#40072 >> >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "Eric Panning" >>To: >>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 1:46 PM >>Subject: RV10-List: Visit to Randy to measure >>control throws >> >> >> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning >> >> >> >>>Hi, Randy was nice enough to let me take some >>>measurements off of his airplane last night. We >> >>had a >> >>>great time discussing RV-10's and admiring his >>>airplane. Great motivation for anyone to keep at >> >>it. >> >>>Now if it only stops raining in Portland... >>> >>>I was primarily interested in aileron throws. We >>>measured the left wing aileron angle relative to >> >>the >> >>>top wing skin. Full up is 35 degrees and full down >> >>is >> >>>-12.6 degrees. To complete this motion, the >> >>actuator >> >>>rod transits ~ 2.2 inches. >>> >>>Upper travel should be limited by the hard stop on >> >>the >> >>>mounting angle. Lower travel, when wings attached >> >>to >> >>>fuselage, is limited by the mechanical stop on the >>>opposite wing. However, another check is the >> >>bellcrank >> >>>should never be "over center". >>> >>>I have an issue on my plane, my full up travel is >>>limited not by the mechanical stop, but by a >> >>clearance >> >>>issue with the actuator rod and the lower surface >> >>of >> >>>the hole in the rear spar. This could be addressed >> >>by >> >>>opening it up more, but I'm surprised that it is >> >>there >> >>>in the first place as everything is match drilled >> >>and >> >>>the doubler plate hole matches the factory opening >> >>in >> >>>the spar. Has anyone else seen this issue? >>> >>>I did not notice on Randy's plane if the same >>>clearance issue exists. There is no clearance >> >>issue on >> >>>the outboard edge of the hole as the range of >> >>travel >> >>>when installed is not enough to touch the edge. >>> >>>Also measured elevator and trim travel. >>> >>>Elevator: Full up 4.9 degrees above horizontal >> >>plane >> >>> Full down 33.2 degrees below horizontal >>>plane >>> >>>Trim tab (left): >>>Full down: 22 degrees down relative to trailing >> >>edge >> >>>of elevator >>>Full up: 6.4 degrees above relative to " " " " >>> >>>Trim tab (right): >>>Full down: 21 degress down " " " " " >>>Full up: 27.1 degrees up " " " " " >>> >>>Note: Full up travel is very different for L vs R >> >>tab. >> >>>Eric >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >>browse >>Subscriptions page, >>FAQ, >> >>Admin. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 09:23:52 AM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson I think he just recommended the Epoxy in general. I would NOT want to use Epoxy to hold the windows in. Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 Current section: Panel Wiring DO NOT ARCHIVE Sam Marlow wrote: > Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows? Is > that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it > work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy, > and return the window glue to Van's? > > Harris, Jeremy P wrote: > >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P" >> >>Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and is >>available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30 min), >>slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and cotton flox >>seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well for >>filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints. >> >> >>Jeremy P. Harris >>Integrated Missile Defense >>BMDS Architectures Lab >> >>The Boeing Company >>Washington, DC >>Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T >>Cell: (703) 627-6500 >>Fax: (703) 414-6372 >>MC: 793C-G007 >>Office: 825B >> >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@itecusa.org] >>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM >>To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows >> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" >> >>We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use Van's >>recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder recommended. >>It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to work >>really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear, than the >>stuff that Van's sells. >> >>Jesse Saint >>I-TEC, Inc. >>jesse@itecusa.org >>www.itecusa.org >>Fax: 815-377-3694 >> >>I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC, >>please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to >>me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but >>it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador. >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow >>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM >>To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>Subject: RV10-List: Windows >> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow >> >>I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the >>windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used? >>Sam Marlow >>Fuse RV10 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 09:36:50 AM PST US <43C26E7D.4060500@adelphia.net> <43C29C12.8030705@MyRV10.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows From: "Kelly McMullen" --> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" You might consider the non-hardening variety of PRC that is used for tank inspection plates. It is what Mooney specifies for sealing all windows in their production aircraft. The non-hardening version has two advantages, it is a bit more pliable for expansion/contraction, and it cleans up with high grade isopropyl alcohol...no concern with damaging the plexi. Tim Olson said: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > I think he just recommended the Epoxy in general. I would NOT > want to use Epoxy to hold the windows in. > > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 > Current section: Panel Wiring > DO NOT ARCHIVE > > > Sam Marlow wrote: >> Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows? Is >> that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it >> work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy, >> and return the window glue to Van's? >> >> Harris, Jeremy P wrote: >> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P" >>> >>> >>>Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and is >>>available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30 min), >>>slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and cotton flox >>>seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well for >>>filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints. >>> >>> >>>Jeremy P. Harris >>>Integrated Missile Defense >>>BMDS Architectures Lab >>> >>>The Boeing Company >>>Washington, DC >>>Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T >>>Cell: (703) 627-6500 >>>Fax: (703) 414-6372 >>>MC: 793C-G007 >>>Office: 825B >>> >>> >>>-----Original Message----- >>>From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@itecusa.org] >>>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM >>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows >>> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" >>> >>>We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use Van's >>>recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder recommended. >>>It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to work >>>really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear, than the >>>stuff that Van's sells. >>> >>>Jesse Saint >>>I-TEC, Inc. >>>jesse@itecusa.org >>>www.itecusa.org >>>Fax: 815-377-3694 >>> >>>I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC, >>>please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to >>>me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but >>>it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador. >>> >>>-----Original Message----- >>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow >>>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM >>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>>Subject: RV10-List: Windows >>> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow >>> >>>I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the >>>windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used? >>>Sam Marlow >>>Fuse RV10 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> > > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 09:37:44 AM PST US From: "Gary Specketer" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" All Glasair/Glastar aircraft use Vinyl Ester epoxy to hold all there windows in. It works great but the install is different than Van's method. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson I think he just recommended the Epoxy in general. I would NOT want to use Epoxy to hold the windows in. Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 Current section: Panel Wiring DO NOT ARCHIVE Sam Marlow wrote: > Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows? > Is > that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it > work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy, > and return the window glue to Van's? > > Harris, Jeremy P wrote: > >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P" >>--> >> >>Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and >>is available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30 >>min), slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and >>cotton flox seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well for >>filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints. >> >> >>Jeremy P. Harris >>Integrated Missile Defense >>BMDS Architectures Lab >> >>The Boeing Company >>Washington, DC >>Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T >>Cell: (703) 627-6500 >>Fax: (703) 414-6372 >>MC: 793C-G007 >>Office: 825B >> >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@itecusa.org] >>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM >>To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows >> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" >> >>We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use >>Van's recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder >>recommended. It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It >>seems to work really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I >>hear, than the stuff that Van's sells. >> >>Jesse Saint >>I-TEC, Inc. >>jesse@itecusa.org >>www.itecusa.org >>Fax: 815-377-3694 >> >>I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding >>I-TEC, please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to >>talk to me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always >>be on, but it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador. >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow >>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM >>To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>Subject: RV10-List: Windows >> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow >> >>I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the >>windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used? >>Sam Marlow Fuse RV10 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 10:23:50 AM PST US From: "David McNeill" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows --> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" If you use the Glastar method you need to be sure to get it right the first time. We worked with Phoenix Composites to get it right. Probably will use the same methods for the 10. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Specketer" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" > > All Glasair/Glastar aircraft use Vinyl Ester epoxy to hold all there > windows > in. It works great but the install is different than Van's method. > Gary Specketer > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 12:24 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > I think he just recommended the Epoxy in general. I would NOT want to use > Epoxy to hold the windows in. > > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 > Current section: Panel Wiring > DO NOT ARCHIVE > > > Sam Marlow wrote: >> Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows? >> Is >> that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it >> work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy, >> and return the window glue to Van's? >> >> Harris, Jeremy P wrote: >> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P" >>>--> >>> >>>Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and >>>is available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30 >>>min), slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and >>>cotton flox seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work >>>well > for >>>filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints. >>> >>> >>>Jeremy P. Harris >>>Integrated Missile Defense >>>BMDS Architectures Lab >>> >>>The Boeing Company >>>Washington, DC >>>Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T >>>Cell: (703) 627-6500 >>>Fax: (703) 414-6372 >>>MC: 793C-G007 >>>Office: 825B >>> >>> >>>-----Original Message----- >>>From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@itecusa.org] >>>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM >>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows >>> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" >>> >>>We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use >>>Van's recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder >>>recommended. It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It >>>seems to work really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I >>>hear, than the stuff that Van's sells. >>> >>>Jesse Saint >>>I-TEC, Inc. >>>jesse@itecusa.org >>>www.itecusa.org >>>Fax: 815-377-3694 >>> >>>I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding >>>I-TEC, please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to >>>talk to me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always >>>be on, but it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador. >>> >>>-----Original Message----- >>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow >>>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM >>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>>Subject: RV10-List: Windows >>> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow >>> >>>I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the >>>windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used? >>>Sam Marlow Fuse RV10 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> > > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 10:39:51 AM PST US From: "David McNeill" Subject: RV10-List: Grumman crash members of the list may be interested in the misdrilled rivet hole in the spar ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 01:44:22 PM PST US From: "Marcus Cooper" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage Floor Dimension Dave, Here are the dimensions from my machine clear of any obstructions: Aft wall 33.5" Forward (just aft of the rear seat angle at floor level): 40" Front to back: 28" Hope this is what you were looking for, Marcus 40286, finally back to work - trimming the top -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Hertner Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Floor Dimension Hello All, I would appreciate it if someone would go out and measure the dimensions of the baggage compartment floor for me. I need the clear area dimensions so please measure from the inboard edge of any ribs or stringers. Dave Hertner 40164 - Emp 99% complete ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 03:50:23 PM PST US From: David Schaefer Subject: Re: RV10-List: Grand Rapids EFIS It's easy to fly and moderately easy to install. Drop me a line off group and I'll be happy to answer any questions. You can check out the pictures on my web site. Regards, David Schaefer RV-6A N142DS www.n142ds.com On 1/9/06, pilotdds@aol.com wrote: > > It is a great system. Excellent company to work with.Installed 3 in my > 10. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Sam Marlow > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Sent: Fri, 06 Jan 2006 10:25:26 -0500 > Subject: RV10-List: Grand Rapids EFIS > > Does anyone have experience with the Grand Rapids EFIS 1? Flown it, > installed it, ect? > Sam Marlow > Instrument Panel RV10 > > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 04:34:24 PM PST US From: Deems Davis Subject: RV10-List: E-Panelbuilder --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis Anybody know what happened to epanelbuilder.com ?? Deems Davis # 406 Wings http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 04:55:50 PM PST US From: Larry Rosen Subject: Re: RV10-List: E-Panelbuilder --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen It seems to be working fine for me. I could not get it to work in Fire Fox had to use Internet explorer. Larry Rosen do not archive Deems Davis wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis > > Anybody know what happened to epanelbuilder.com ?? > > > Deems Davis # 406 > Wings > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 05:30:17 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: E-Panelbuilder From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" He's in the process of completely reworking the site. He had mentioned to me last week that he was going to have myself and others begin beta testing it for him today but I haven't heard anything. The site may have went down during upgrades for this testing. From what I've been hearing it will be much better than it is now. Michael Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Subject: RV10-List: E-Panelbuilder --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis Anybody know what happened to epanelbuilder.com ?? Deems Davis # 406 Wings http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 05:31:07 PM PST US From: "Robert G. Wright" Subject: RE: RV10-List: E-Panelbuilder --> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" Shameless plug for xpanelbuilder.com by someone who isn't affiliated with them. I have the free 1.2.9 beta version, and they might have the full ($$) version out by now. It uses a grid-aligned panel, runs a schematic of components and cost, and I'm sure way more things than I've discovered so far. Best thing I like so far is that it's not cookie dependent like the online-based one is (At least I saved a .gif of that one before it reset). Rob #392 Tailcone -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen Subject: Re: RV10-List: E-Panelbuilder --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen It seems to be working fine for me. I could not get it to work in Fire Fox had to use Internet explorer. Larry Rosen do not archive Deems Davis wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis > > Anybody know what happened to epanelbuilder.com ?? > > > Deems Davis # 406 > Wings > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 05:58:42 PM PST US From: Deems Davis Subject: Re: RV10-List: E-Panelbuilder --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis ah ha ! That seems to be the problem, I'll have to make an adjustment! Deems Davis # 406 Wings http://deemsrv10.com/ Larry Rosen wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen > > It seems to be working fine for me. I could not get it to work in > Fire Fox had to use Internet explorer. > > Larry Rosen > do not archive > > Deems Davis wrote: > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis >> >> Anybody know what happened to epanelbuilder.com ?? >> >> >> Deems Davis # 406 >> Wings >> http://deemsrv10.com/ >> >> >> >> >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 06:32:19 PM PST US From: "Mike Kraus" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R Talk to Van's. When I was talking to them about this, they mentioned it may be rolled from the factory now. Not sure if they were talking about the front or the rear, but they were working on having them formed from the factory. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli Subject: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R I tried to bend the F1070R fuse skin yesterday. It didn't go too well. I ended up with a tear in the skin at the forward end of the bend line. I think my problem was that instead of making the bending block out of hardwood I used 2 by 6 construction lumber which is much weeker. As a result the edge of the bending block broke. Ordered new skin ($75) and a will be getting a piece of oak to make the new bending block. Has anyone had a similar experience? Any suggestions on this? Niko 40188 Fuselage ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 06:36:16 PM PST US From: "Mike Kraus" Subject: RE: RV10-List: F1013-L Longeron Tist --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus" I believe the right one is bent to match one side of the template and the left side is bent to match the other side of the template. If you look at the template drawing in the plans and then look a couple of pages further, it will show both the top and bottom of the template and it will be labeled which side is left and right. The parts should be mirror images except the left one has a bunch more hole where the doubler rivets on over the baggage door. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli Subject: Re: RV10-List: F1013-L Longeron Tist --> RV10-List message posted by: Nikolaos Napoli Hi Ron, I just finished going through that step. I twisted both the left and right one as it seems to me that they should be identical at the fwd end. I am not 100% sure though. Niko ----- Original Message ---- From: "McGANN, Ron" Subject: RV10-List: F1013-L Longeron Tist G'day all, Happy New Year from Oz!! Have spent some time bending the fuse longerons. Plans have you mark fwd/aft twist marks and start/end bend marks on the F1013 left and right longerons. The plans only call for the right Longeron to be twisted. Is the left longeron twisted at the forward twist mark? thanks in advance Ron 40187 fuse ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 07:04:45 PM PST US From: Matt Dralle Subject: RV10-List: All New BBS Interface For Matronics List Forums! --> RV10-List message posted by: Matt Dralle Dear Listers, I'm very proud to announce a completely new BBS interface is now available for all of the Email Lists at Matronics! This is a full-featured system that allows for viewing, posting, attachments, polls - the works. But the best part is that it is *completely* integrated with all of the existing email tools currently available at Matronics! What this means at the most basic level is that, if you post a message to List from Email in the traditional way, it will show up on the BBS system *and* get distributed to everyone currently subscribed to the Email List. By the same token, if you are on the BBS and post a message to a given List-Forum, the message will not only show up on the BBS, but also be distributed to everyone on the Email List!! It is really a very nice implementation and I am very pleased with its operation. All of the tools you have come to know and love such as the List Search Engine and List Browse and Download will still be available and contain all of the latest posts. Think of the new BBS interface as just another method of accessing the all of the Lists. You can use the BBS to view all of the latest posts without having to do anything except use your browser to surf over to the site. You can view and look at all of the various List's posts. If you want to post a new message or reply to an existing message from the BBS, you will have to Register on the BBS. This is a *very* simple process and will only take a couple of minutes. There is a small icon in the upper righthand side of the main BBS page labeled "Register" to get you started. I strongly recommend that you use the exact *same* email address you are subscribed to the Email Lists with when registering on the BBS. Also, while not an absolute requirement, I would really appreciate it if people would use their full name when choosing their Username on the BBS (for example "Matt Dralle"). This just makes it easier for everyone to know who's posting. Also, I have enabled the ability to upload a small user picture with your profile called an "avatar". Please use a *real* picture of yourself *with* your cloths on! Thank you! Maximum size of the bitmap is 120x120. You can either be subscribed to the BBS, or any number of Email Lists, or both. Registering on the BBS will allow you to email directly to all of the various Lists. However, to receive direct List Email, you will need to be *subscribed* to the various Lists as you have in the past. No changes here in operation. I have added numerous links on the BBS pointing to the Email List subscription page. I've had the BBS connected to the Lists for about a week now, so its already loaded up with a fair number of messages. You can post photos and other documents directly to the BBS and links to them will appear in the List Email distributions. Also, when any messages posted to the BBS are viewed in the List Email distribution, there will be a URL link at the bottom of the message pointing back to the BBS. And here's what you've been waiting for -- the main URL for the new Matronics Email List BBS is: http://forums.matronics.com Please surf on over, Register, and have a great time! I think this will be the dawn of a whole new era for the Lists at Matronics! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 07:19:25 PM PST US From: "Chris" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Visit to Randy to measure control throws --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" My rear spar (slow build) came with the tear drop shape hole. I have set up the aileron control already except for the fuel tank end. If I move the aileron the 12.6 deg's I have no issue, I need a helper to see what angle results in a rub of the rod to the spar, maybe 15 degrees. It is barely good, so once I get everything on for "real" I will be looking at it again. -Chris #40072 > --> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning > > Chris, > > Thanks for the links. Mine are like Mike Howe's and > (like him) I traced the rounded off retangle into the > doubler. > > Did your comes as teardrop from the factory? Looking > at the photo's you can see the tear drop is bigger > than the retangle. It is the the same shape and size I > need to allow the aileron free travel to the stop. > > I think people should check their rear spar and verify > that they have sufficient clearance. Don't rely on > sound as it makes a "clunk" as if it hit the stop > (when it's actually hitting the control rod). > > I subsequently spoke with Randy and he opened up his > rectangle to more tear dropped for clearance as well. > > I wish I knew about this issue before I riveted the > spar together but I'm glad that I know about it prior > to flying. My numbers are you need about 1/4 inch > additional clearance on the lower portion. > > If you are still working on the wing kit you can check > this ahead of time by assembling the powder coated > parts of the aileron control system. You need only get > out the bellcrank, one aileron mount, cut the rod to > length and drill for the threaded ends. You can you > slide a rivet in to hold the ends on. > > What is it like on the quickbuild wings? > > Thanks, > > Eric > > --- Chris wrote: > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" >> >> >> Is the hole through your rear spar a "modified >> teardrop shape or a uniform >> rectangle with rounded corners. I seem to remember >> seeing both types in >> various website photos: >> Look at the bottom 2 pictures on the following page >> on Mike Howe's or Tims >> site: >> http://www.etigerrr.com/Wings/september_6_2004.htm >> and then this picture on William Curtis site >> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/wings36.html >> >> My cut outs are like Williams , maybe has something >> to do with it? >> >> Chris Lucas >> #40072 ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 08:13:35 PM PST US From: Sean Stephens Subject: Re: RV10-List: Visit to Randy to measure control throws --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens My slowbuild wings came with the rectangle instead of the teardrop. Guess I'll have to keep that in mind as I'm getting to that point soon. Thanks -Sean #40303 do not archive Chris wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" > > My rear spar (slow build) came with the tear drop shape hole. I have > set up the aileron control already except for the fuel tank end. If I > move the aileron the 12.6 deg's I have no issue, I need a helper to > see what angle results in a rub of the rod to the spar, maybe 15 > degrees. It is barely good, so once I get everything on for "real" I > will be looking at it again. > -Chris > #40072 > > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning >> >> >> Chris, >> >> Thanks for the links. Mine are like Mike Howe's and >> (like him) I traced the rounded off retangle into the >> doubler. >> >> Did your comes as teardrop from the factory? Looking >> at the photo's you can see the tear drop is bigger >> than the retangle. It is the the same shape and size I >> need to allow the aileron free travel to the stop. >> >> I think people should check their rear spar and verify >> that they have sufficient clearance. Don't rely on >> sound as it makes a "clunk" as if it hit the stop >> (when it's actually hitting the control rod). >> >> I subsequently spoke with Randy and he opened up his >> rectangle to more tear dropped for clearance as well. >> >> I wish I knew about this issue before I riveted the >> spar together but I'm glad that I know about it prior >> to flying. My numbers are you need about 1/4 inch >> additional clearance on the lower portion. >> >> If you are still working on the wing kit you can check >> this ahead of time by assembling the powder coated >> parts of the aileron control system. You need only get >> out the bellcrank, one aileron mount, cut the rod to >> length and drill for the threaded ends. You can you >> slide a rivet in to hold the ends on. >> >> What is it like on the quickbuild wings? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Eric >> >> --- Chris wrote: >> >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" >>> >>> >>> Is the hole through your rear spar a "modified >>> teardrop shape or a uniform >>> rectangle with rounded corners. I seem to remember >>> seeing both types in >>> various website photos: >>> Look at the bottom 2 pictures on the following page >>> on Mike Howe's or Tims >>> site: >>> http://www.etigerrr.com/Wings/september_6_2004.htm >>> and then this picture on William Curtis site >>> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/wings36.html >>> >>> My cut outs are like Williams , maybe has something >>> to do with it? >>> >>> Chris Lucas >>> #40072 > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > >