Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:53 AM - Re: Garmin 480 vs 430 (Chuck Jensen)
2. 06:04 AM - Re: Garmin 480 vs 430 (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
3. 06:12 AM - Re: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R (Nikolaos Napoli)
4. 06:27 AM - Re: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R (Rene Felker)
5. 07:27 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (John Cleary)
6. 07:47 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Conti, Rick)
7. 07:52 AM - Re: battery (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
8. 08:13 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (John Cleary)
9. 08:26 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
10. 08:28 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Conti, Rick)
11. 08:41 AM - Re: battery (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
12. 08:47 AM - Re: battery (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
13. 09:11 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Kelly McMullen)
14. 09:17 AM - Re: battery (John Jessen)
15. 09:21 AM - Re: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R (Nikolaos Napoli)
16. 09:23 AM - Re: battery (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
17. 10:09 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
18. 10:18 AM - Re: battery (RAS)
19. 10:32 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Tim Olson)
20. 10:50 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Conti, Rick)
21. 10:59 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
22. 11:19 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Conti, Rick)
23. 11:25 AM - Re: Chelton RV-10? (Tim Olson)
24. 11:31 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Larry Rosen)
25. 11:32 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
26. 11:37 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
27. 11:47 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Conti, Rick)
28. 12:15 PM - Re: Windows (Harris, Jeremy P)
29. 12:53 PM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (John Gonzalez)
30. 12:55 PM - Re: Windows (John Gonzalez)
31. 01:22 PM - Re: Chelton RV-10? (David McNeill)
32. 02:49 PM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (John Cleary)
33. 02:49 PM - Re: Re: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R ()
34. 03:01 PM - Re: Interior Lighting (Indran Chelvanayagam)
35. 03:17 PM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Sean Stephens)
36. 03:17 PM - Re: Interior Lighting (David McNeill)
37. 04:01 PM - Re: Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Dan Masys)
38. 04:16 PM - Re: Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (David McNeill)
39. 05:16 PM - Re: Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Dan Masys)
40. 05:30 PM - Re: Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (David McNeill)
41. 05:46 PM - Re: Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (David McNeill)
42. 05:47 PM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
43. 05:54 PM - Re: Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
44. 06:13 PM - Re: Visit to Randy to measure control throws (John Hilger)
45. 06:32 PM - Re: Interior Lighting (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
46. 07:34 PM - Re: Interior Lighting (linn walters)
47. 07:37 PM - Re: Interior Lighting (Robert G. Wright)
48. 07:41 PM - Re: QB Kit Quality ()
49. 07:51 PM - Re: Re: QB Kit Quality (Docstevew1@aol.com)
50. 07:55 PM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (rv10builder)
51. 07:59 PM - Re: Re: QB Kit Quality (gengrumpy@aol.com)
52. 08:17 PM - Re: Interior Lighting (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
53. 08:27 PM - Re: Re: QB Kit Quality (Docstevew1@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Garmin 480 vs 430 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Personal opinion based on flying both. The 430 can't carry the 480's
water. The 480 lets you look up everything, be it frequencies, airways,
VORs, NDSs, intersections and plug right into the Flight Plan or for
Direct To. The 430 requires you to pretty much enter everything, one
letter or number at a time. The soft keys on the 480 are king.
The 480 has been criticized as having a 'difficult' menu. Wrong. Once
you are used to it, it is powerful and reasonably intuitive--unlike the
430. Oh, by the way, the 480 is WAAS capable. That's not the reason to
buy it, that's just a fringe benefit.
UPSat got it right, Garmin is still trying.
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Kirkland
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Garmin 480 vs 430
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Kirkland"
<jskirkland@webpipe.net>
Garmin says the software development effort on the 430 and 530 to
incorporate WAAS isn't going as smoothly as they hoped, so its going to
be
late and expensive, $2K to upgrade a 430. So I'm thinking a 480 for my
Comm/Nav #1, and a King 125 for a backup Comm/Nav #2. If the 480 goes
junk,
the King will get me on a localizer or VOR approach at least.
John Kirkland #40333
Marcus Cooper writes:
> I'm waffling on which radio to get and am looking for opinions. I
know the
> 480 is better due to its WAAS capability and precision GPS approaches,
but
> are there any other advantages of the 480 over the 430? That $2400
> difference is no small chunk of cash and I'm not sure how bad I need
the
> precision approach capability with 2 ILS systems on board (GNS ??? and
the
> SL-30), although it would be nice to have for runways without an ILS.
I
> also spoke to the Grand Rapids folks (I'm using the Dual Display GRT
EFIS)
> and apparently there is a warning that shows up in the 480 indicating
"no
> OBS detected" (or something similar) since you don't use normal
display.
> I'm not sure if it's just a nuisance warning only at startup or if it
is
> displayed continuously/frequently which would be a real distraction.
>
>
>
> Thanks for any experiences and recommendations,
>
> Marcus
>
> 40286
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Garmin 480 vs 430 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
If you already owned a 430 prior to June of 2005, you were able to
purchase the WAAS upgrade for $1500 if you ordered it before Nov 15.
The 430 that I purchased after June of 2005 did not qualify for this
deal, but they had a different deal that included terrain and WAAS for
$1700. So I order one of each. The 430 with this upgrade get an
entirely new motherboard and faster CPU. This will make the 430 very
fast but not improve the resolution of screen. The screen is still
better on the 480 (more pixels and larger).
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Kirkland
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Garmin 480 vs 430
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Kirkland"
<jskirkland@webpipe.net>
Garmin says the software development effort on the 430 and 530 to
incorporate WAAS isn't going as smoothly as they hoped, so its going to
be
late and expensive, $2K to upgrade a 430. So I'm thinking a 480 for my
Comm/Nav #1, and a King 125 for a backup Comm/Nav #2. If the 480 goes
junk,
the King will get me on a localizer or VOR approach at least.
John Kirkland #40333
Marcus Cooper writes:
> I'm waffling on which radio to get and am looking for opinions. I
know the
> 480 is better due to its WAAS capability and precision GPS approaches,
but
> are there any other advantages of the 480 over the 430? That $2400
> difference is no small chunk of cash and I'm not sure how bad I need
the
> precision approach capability with 2 ILS systems on board (GNS ??? and
the
> SL-30), although it would be nice to have for runways without an ILS.
I
> also spoke to the Grand Rapids folks (I'm using the Dual Display GRT
EFIS)
> and apparently there is a warning that shows up in the 480 indicating
"no
> OBS detected" (or something similar) since you don't use normal
display.
> I'm not sure if it's just a nuisance warning only at startup or if it
is
> displayed continuously/frequently which would be a real distraction.
>
>
>
> Thanks for any experiences and recommendations,
>
> Marcus
>
> 40286
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R |
Does the F1070L skin (the one with the baggage door cutout) get bent the same time
the F1070R does? I don't see any mention of it at all.
Niko
----- Original Message ----
From: Mike Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 9:31:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
Talk to Van's. When I was talking to them about this, they mentioned it may be
rolled from the factory now. Not sure if they were talking about the front or
the rear, but they were working on having them formed from the factory.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 12:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
I tried to bend the F1070R fuse skin yesterday. It didn't go too well. I ended
up with a tear in the skin at the forward end of the bend line. I think my
problem was that instead of making the bending block out of hardwood I used 2
by 6 construction lumber which is much weeker. As a result the edge of the bending
block broke. Ordered new skin ($75) and a will be getting a piece of oak
to make the new bending block. Has anyone had a similar experience? Any suggestions
on this?
Niko
40188 Fuselage
Message 4
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| Subject: | Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R |
I did mine that way..
Rene' Felker
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 7:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
Does the F1070L skin (the one with the baggage door cutout) get bent the
same time the F1070R does? I don't see any mention of it at all.
Niko
----- Original Message ----
From: Mike Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 9:31:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
Talk to Van's. When I was talking to them about this, they mentioned it may
be rolled from the factory now. Not sure if they were talking about the
front or the rear, but they were working on having them formed from the
factory.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 12:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
I tried to bend the F1070R fuse skin yesterday. It didn't go too well. I
ended up with a tear in the skin at the forward end of the bend line. I
think my problem was that instead of making the bending block out of
hardwood I used 2 by 6 construction lumber which is much weeker. As a
result the edge of the bending block broke. Ordered new skin ($75) and a
will be getting a piece of oak to make the new bending block. Has anyone
had a similar experience? Any suggestions on this?
Niko
40188 Fuselage
Message 5
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| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
Rick,
I am interested in using this board also. Where did you decide to mount it?
Do you have any photos? Are you able to share your wiring diagram? What
voltage system did you go for?
Thank you,
John Cleary
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Saturday, 7 January 2006 2:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I decided not to use the airframe as a return. Since all parts are primed
and the riveted "connection" is a painted surface to an unpainted surface,
electrically, it's not a good connection. I bought the power board from
Blue Mountain and both battery cables run forward to the board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
_____
From: Mike Kraus [mailto:n223rv@wolflakeairport.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 9:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front longeron
to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was hoping to attach
it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in the Harmon Rocket, but
there is not one that runs that far do to the door cut outs on each side.
Thanks
-Mike
Message 6
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| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
The board is mounted on a wood base w/stand-offs on the right side of
the panel. Sorry, no photos. I am using a 24v system. The board is
the newer version.
If you order CH Products control grips, you will NOT need the model with
the relays in the control grip. The relays are available on the power
board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
From: John Cleary [mailto:johncleary@mangertonnsw.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:27 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Rick,
I am interested in using this board also. Where did you decide to mount
it? Do you have any photos? Are you able to share your wiring diagram?
What voltage system did you go for?
Thank you,
John Cleary
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Saturday, 7 January 2006 2:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I decided not to use the airframe as a return. Since all parts are
primed and the riveted "connection" is a painted surface to an unpainted
surface, electrically, it's not a good connection. I bought the power
board from Blue Mountain and both battery cables run forward to the
board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
From: Mike Kraus [mailto:n223rv@wolflakeairport.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 9:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in the
Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the door
cut outs on each side.
Thanks
-Mike
Message 7
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|
I went with a pair of PC-680s. Tray was modified to increase width a
small amount (around an inch). Contactors (one for each battery) are on
a bracket that attaches to the standard contactor location. I've
attached one picture - if you need/want more I can send them offline if
you'd like. I'm also aware of another builder that has a pair of
PC-680s but they're rotated 90 degrees from "normal" and the contactors
are one on each side.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 9:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: battery
Who's used the Odyssey PC680 (or two of them) and how did you have to
modify your battery shelf?
Rob
#392 tailcone
Message 8
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| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
Rick,
Thank you.
Did you mount it on the rear of the panel itself or on something behind the
panel?
Cheers,
John
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Thursday, 12 January 2006 2:45 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
The board is mounted on a wood base w/stand-offs on the right side of the
panel. Sorry, no photos. I am using a 24v system. The board is the newer
version.
If you order CH Products control grips, you will NOT need the model with the
relays in the control grip. The relays are available on the power board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
_____
From: John Cleary [mailto:johncleary@mangertonnsw.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:27 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Rick,
I am interested in using this board also. Where did you decide to mount it?
Do you have any photos? Are you able to share your wiring diagram? What
voltage system did you go for?
Thank you,
John Cleary
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Saturday, 7 January 2006 2:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I decided not to use the airframe as a return. Since all parts are primed
and the riveted "connection" is a painted surface to an unpainted surface,
electrically, it's not a good connection. I bought the power board from
Blue Mountain and both battery cables run forward to the board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
_____
From: Mike Kraus [mailto:n223rv@wolflakeairport.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 9:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front longeron
to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was hoping to attach
it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in the Harmon Rocket, but
there is not one that runs that far do to the door cut outs on each side.
Thanks
-Mike
Message 9
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| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in series
. . .
(Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:45 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
The board is mounted on a wood base w/stand-offs on the right side of
the panel. Sorry, no photos. I am using a 24v system. The board is
the newer version.
If you order CH Products control grips, you will NOT need the model with
the relays in the control grip. The relays are available on the power
board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
From: John Cleary [mailto:johncleary@mangertonnsw.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:27 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Rick,
I am interested in using this board also. Where did you decide to mount
it? Do you have any photos? Are you able to share your wiring diagram?
What voltage system did you go for?
Thank you,
John Cleary
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Saturday, 7 January 2006 2:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I decided not to use the airframe as a return. Since all parts are
primed and the riveted "connection" is a painted surface to an unpainted
surface, electrically, it's not a good connection. I bought the power
board from Blue Mountain and both battery cables run forward to the
board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
From: Mike Kraus [mailto:n223rv@wolflakeairport.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 9:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in the
Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the door
cut outs on each side.
Thanks
-Mike
Message 10
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| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
It's mounted on a thin sheet of wood and the wood is mounted on
stand-offs on the sub-panel.
Jeremy - do you have photos the power board mounting?
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
From: John Cleary [mailto:johncleary@mangertonnsw.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 11:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Rick,
Thank you.
Did you mount it on the rear of the panel itself or on something behind
the panel?
Cheers,
John
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Thursday, 12 January 2006 2:45 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
The board is mounted on a wood base w/stand-offs on the right side of
the panel. Sorry, no photos. I am using a 24v system. The board is
the newer version.
If you order CH Products control grips, you will NOT need the model with
the relays in the control grip. The relays are available on the power
board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
From: John Cleary [mailto:johncleary@mangertonnsw.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:27 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Rick,
I am interested in using this board also. Where did you decide to mount
it? Do you have any photos? Are you able to share your wiring diagram?
What voltage system did you go for?
Thank you,
John Cleary
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Saturday, 7 January 2006 2:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I decided not to use the airframe as a return. Since all parts are
primed and the riveted "connection" is a painted surface to an unpainted
surface, electrically, it's not a good connection. I bought the power
board from Blue Mountain and both battery cables run forward to the
board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
From: Mike Kraus [mailto:n223rv@wolflakeairport.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 9:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in the
Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the door
cut outs on each side.
Thanks
-Mike
Message 11
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Well, if we're sharing battery pictures, here's our main battery: 12v + 12v =3D
24v.
Also in view is a real man's contactor . . .
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
Sent: Wed 1/11/2006 10:53 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: battery
I went with a pair of PC-680s. Tray was modified to increase width a small amount
(around an inch). Contactors (one for each battery) are on a bracket that
attaches to the standard contactor location. I've attached one picture - if
you need/want more I can send them offline if you'd like. I'm also aware of another
builder that has a pair of PC-680s but they're rotated 90 degrees from
"normal" and the contactors are one on each side.
Bob #40105
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 9:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: battery
Who's used the Odyssey PC680 (or two of them) and how did you have to modify your
battery shelf?
Rob
#392 tailcone
Message 12
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Tim - I guess you win the "manly contactor" contest...
Bob
Do Not Archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: battery
Well, if we're sharing battery pictures, here's our main battery: 12v +
12v =3D 24v.
Also in view is a real man's contactor . . .
TDT
40025
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Sent: Wed 1/11/2006 10:53 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: battery
I went with a pair of PC-680s. Tray was modified to increase width a
small amount (around an inch). Contactors (one for each battery) are on
a bracket that attaches to the standard contactor location. I've
attached one picture - if you need/want more I can send them offline if
you'd like. I'm also aware of another builder that has a pair of
PC-680s but they're rotated 90 degrees from "normal" and the contactors
are one on each side.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 9:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: battery
Who's used the Odyssey PC680 (or two of them) and how did you have to
modify your battery shelf?
Rob
#392 tailcone
Message 13
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| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
Message 14
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|
Ok. I'll look this up in the archives and on Aerolectric later today, but
real quick, why 24 volts other than for lighter wiring and that you may have
used avionics out of a Cessna?
John Jessen
~328 (still bouncing back and forth between elevators and cone)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 8:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: battery
Well, if we're sharing battery pictures, here's our main battery: 12v + 12v
= 24v.
Also in view is a real man's contactor . . .
TDT
40025
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Sent: Wed 1/11/2006 10:53 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: battery
I went with a pair of PC-680s. Tray was modified to increase width a small
amount (around an inch). Contactors (one for each battery) are on a bracket
that attaches to the standard contactor location. I've attached one picture
- if you need/want more I can send them offline if you'd like. I'm also
aware of another builder that has a pair of PC-680s but they're rotated 90
degrees from "normal" and the contactors are one on each side.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 9:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: battery
Who's used the Odyssey PC680 (or two of them) and how did you have to modify
your battery shelf?
Rob
#392 tailcone
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R |
Thanks for the info.
do not archive
----- Original Message ----
From: Rene Felker <rene@felker.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 9:27:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
I did mine that way=E2=80=A6.
Rene' Felker
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 7:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
Does the F1070L skin (the one with the baggage door cutout) get bent the same time
the F1070R does? I don't see any mention of it at all.
Niko
----- Original Message ----
From: Mike Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 9:31:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
Talk to Van's. When I was talking to them about this, they mentioned it may be
rolled from the factory now. Not sure if they were talking about the front or
the rear, but they were working on having them formed from the factory.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 12:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
I tried to bend the F1070R fuse skin yesterday. It didn't go too well. I ended
up with a tear in the skin at the forward end of the bend line. I think my
problem was that instead of making the bending block out of hardwood I used 2
by 6 construction lumber which is much weeker. As a result the edge of the bending
block broke. Ordered new skin ($75) and a will be getting a piece of oak
to make the new bending block. Has anyone had a similar experience? Any suggestions
on this?
Niko
40188 Fuselage
Message 16
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Geez, expecting to upgrade to a fusion reactor in the future? Hehe
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: battery
Well, if we're sharing battery pictures, here's our main battery: 12v + 12v =3D
24v.
Also in view is a real man's contactor . . .
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
Sent: Wed 1/11/2006 10:53 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: battery
I went with a pair of PC-680s. Tray was modified to increase width a small amount
(around an inch). Contactors (one for each battery) are on a bracket that
attaches to the standard contactor location. I've attached one picture - if
you need/want more I can send them offline if you'd like. I'm also aware of another
builder that has a pair of PC-680s but they're rotated 90 degrees from
"normal" and the contactors are one on each side.
Bob #40105
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 9:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: battery
Who's used the Odyssey PC680 (or two of them) and how did you have to modify your
battery shelf?
Rob
#392 tailcone
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
We had certain mission avionics that were driving us to 24 volts. Most
avionics these days, however, will run at either 12 or 24. You can get
power converters to go either way, but those are generally cheaper to go
from 24 to 12 then the other way around.
It was a pain in the rear to try and hunt down good 24 volt contactors,
especially for the starter contactor. Van's only sells 12 volt models.
But the one we did eventually get is wicked cool.
Plus it's fun to be different!
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
Message 18
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|
that's the way to go........nuke reactor in the back with a matching bit of electrictrickery
in the front! No worries about rising avgas prices and a set of
fuel rods is bound to last a lifetime...........you'll be radiant looking after
every flight and there's no problem finding your RV in the dark!
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 5:22 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: battery
Geez, expecting to upgrade to a fusion reactor in the future? Hehe
do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:39 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com; rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: battery
Well, if we're sharing battery pictures, here's our main battery: 12v + 12v
=3D 24v.
Also in view is a real man's contactor . . .
TDT
40025
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
Sent: Wed 1/11/2006 10:53 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: battery
I went with a pair of PC-680s. Tray was modified to increase width a small amount
(around an inch). Contactors (one for each battery) are on a bracket that
attaches to the standard contactor location. I've attached one picture - if
you need/want more I can send them offline if you'd like. I'm also aware of
another builder that has a pair of PC-680s but they're rotated 90 degrees from
"normal" and the contactors are one on each side.
Bob #40105
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 9:03 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: battery
Who's used the Odyssey PC680 (or two of them) and how did you have to modify
your battery shelf?
Rob
#392 tailcone
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hmm...you sure got that one down...
dO nOT aRCHIVe
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>
> Plus it's fun to be different!
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
> McMullen
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
>
> I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
> plane,
> I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
> to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
> should consider 24V.
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
>
>>YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>>
>>
>>
>>Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
>
> series
>
>>. . .
>>
>>
>>
>>(Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>>
>>
>>
>>TDT
>>
>>40025
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
incorrectly.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym@aviating.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Odyssey doesn't make a 24 volt battery that I know of and that's what we
wanted to use. Plus one can do a scheme like replace one of the
batteries every year (or two), to maintain a rotating constantly "new"
battery. (I think that idea came from Aero-Electric.)
Good point on the engine info display. Depends somewhat on your EFIS
and it's tolerance for voltage drops, too.
Got any pictures of your external power arrangement? Sounds nice.
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
incorrectly.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym@aviating.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
I'll take a few pictures tonight and post them on Jeremy's web site.
www.jharris.net
Go to aviation then RV-10.
Jeremy is helping with my 10 and to date has done all of the work on the
panel.
Pictures to be taken: External power receptacle set up
Power board location on panel
Tray in tail for servos and ELT
Anyone interested in the defrost system?
Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend [mailto:Tdawson@avidyne.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:59 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
<Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Odyssey doesn't make a 24 volt battery that I know of and that's what we
wanted to use. Plus one can do a scheme like replace one of the
batteries every year (or two), to maintain a rotating constantly "new"
battery. (I think that idea came from Aero-Electric.)
Good point on the engine info display. Depends somewhat on your EFIS
and it's tolerance for voltage drops, too.
Got any pictures of your external power arrangement? Sounds nice.
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
incorrectly.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym@aviating.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Chelton RV-10? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Having just done the wiring of the Cheltons, I can tell you
this...
1: the "J2" harnesses (interconnects from screen to screen)
would be good things to buy if you're going to buy anything.
They have a lot of wires.
2: The "J3" harnesses (power, keyboard, autopilot on the PFD)
are SUPER simple and involve very few wires. You could wire
as few as 5 wires I think...if I remember right. Definitely
best to just build them.
3: The "J1" harness (Interface to your radio stack, AHRS,
GPS, Traffic, WSI, ...) has a few more wires, but it surely
isn't very hard to build, and given the complexity of where
you may want to mount your AHRS and things like that, I
would not be interested in buying this harness. Best
to custom build probably for everyone.
So the harnesses involved in wiring the Chelton aren't
very bad at all, except for the J2's. I purchased my
system the last week that harnesses were included, so
I didn't have to build those, but the J1's I basically
decided to build my own, and the J3's I decided to chop
theirs up a bit to eliminate some unused wires. So other
than those straightforward screen inteconnects, the
rest is mostly useless.
Also, in regards to mounting, most builders will want to
mount to suit their needs, and if harnesses are provided
with ends on them, how do you pull them through
conduit and snap bushings under the floor?
Latest on the AHRS is the 2nd SB came out this week and
they're expecting in Feb to begin to accept returns
for either upgrade, or replacement from their pool of
upgraded units, and then hopefully the Crossbow is
good to go.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> I just called them a few days ago on this. Explanation at the time was
> that it would include a cabling harness. I also had a conversation with
> an avionics dealer that said the same thing. Apparently there's a LOT
> of wiring and this will make life much easier. Neither of my
> conversations revealed why it might be RV-10 specific since it seems
> that prefab cable harnesses would be generic to any aircraft. I did ask
> specifically whether some sort of mounting hardware would be included
> for the AHRS and got a negative response.
>
> Also, there was a hint that they might offer some sort of special this
> spring/summer to re-energize sales. Apparently sales have fallen off a
> bit as a result of the AHRS issue. Crossbow is reportedly flight
> testing an updated AHRS with good results.
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 12:26 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Chelton RV-10?
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> On direct2avionic's website they have a link to a new two screen Chelton
>
> specific to the RV-10. However, that link just goes to a page that
> states "more info coming soon".
>
> <http://www.direct2avionics.com/efis_sv_10.html>
>
> Anyone know the specifics? How it is different from their "standard"
> two screen package?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Tim
Where up front are you mounting the batteries? What type of battery?
Larry Rosen
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
> series . . .
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Conti, Rick
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:45 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> The board is mounted on a wood base w/stand-offs on the right side of
> the panel. Sorry, no photos. I am using a 24v system. The board is the
> newer version.
>
> If you order CH Products control grips, you will _NOT_ need the model
> with the relays in the control grip. The relays are available on the
> power board.
>
> */Thank You/*
> */Rick Conti/*
> */o/**/ffice: 703-414-6141/*
> */ cell: 571-215-6134/*
>
>
> *From:* John Cleary [mailto:johncleary@mangertonnsw.com]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:27 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> Rick,
>
> I am interested in using this board also. Where did you decide to
> mount it? Do you have any photos? Are you able to share your wiring
> diagram? What voltage system did you go for?
>
> Thank you,
>
> John Cleary
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Conti, Rick
> *Sent:* Saturday, 7 January 2006 2:09 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> I decided not to use the airframe as a return. Since all parts are
> primed and the riveted connection is a painted surface to an
> unpainted surface, electrically, its not a good connection. I bought
> the power board from Blue Mountain and both battery cables run forward
> to the board.
>
> */Thank You/*
> */Rick Conti/*
> */o/**/ffice: 703-414-6141/*
> */ cell: 571-215-6134/*
>
>
> *From:* Mike Kraus [mailto:n223rv@wolflakeairport.net]
> *Sent:* Thursday, January 05, 2006 9:41 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
> thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
> longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
> hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in
> the Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the
> door cut outs on each side.
>
> Thanks
>
> -Mike
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I'm interested in seeing the defrost system!
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
I'll take a few pictures tonight and post them on Jeremy's web site.
www.jharris.net
Go to aviation then RV-10.
Jeremy is helping with my 10 and to date has done all of the work on the
panel.
Pictures to be taken: External power receptacle set up
Power board location on panel
Tray in tail for servos and ELT
Anyone interested in the defrost system?
Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend [mailto:Tdawson@avidyne.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:59 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
<Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Odyssey doesn't make a 24 volt battery that I know of and that's what we
wanted to use. Plus one can do a scheme like replace one of the
batteries every year (or two), to maintain a rotating constantly "new"
battery. (I think that idea came from Aero-Electric.)
Good point on the engine info display. Depends somewhat on your EFIS
and it's tolerance for voltage drops, too.
Got any pictures of your external power arrangement? Sounds nice.
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
incorrectly.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym@aviating.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
Message 26
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| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
They are little ones from B&C Specialty, 7 aH, I believe. They are
going to sit on a little tray that will be on the cabin side of the
firewall, up high. The Aux Battery Master contactor and the Crosstie
contactor will probably sit next to them. Still working that out . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Tim
Where up front are you mounting the batteries? What type of battery?
Larry Rosen
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
> series . . .
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Conti,
Rick
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:45 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> The board is mounted on a wood base w/stand-offs on the right side of
> the panel. Sorry, no photos. I am using a 24v system. The board is the
> newer version.
>
> If you order CH Products control grips, you will _NOT_ need the model
> with the relays in the control grip. The relays are available on the
> power board.
>
> */Thank You/*
> */Rick Conti/*
> */o/**/ffice: 703-414-6141/*
> */ cell: 571-215-6134/*
>
>
> *From:* John Cleary [mailto:johncleary@mangertonnsw.com]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:27 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> Rick,
>
> I am interested in using this board also. Where did you decide to
> mount it? Do you have any photos? Are you able to share your wiring
> diagram? What voltage system did you go for?
>
> Thank you,
>
> John Cleary
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Conti,
Rick
> *Sent:* Saturday, 7 January 2006 2:09 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> I decided not to use the airframe as a return. Since all parts are
> primed and the riveted "connection" is a painted surface to an
> unpainted surface, electrically, it's not a good connection. I bought
> the power board from Blue Mountain and both battery cables run forward
> to the board.
>
> */Thank You/*
> */Rick Conti/*
> */o/**/ffice: 703-414-6141/*
> */ cell: 571-215-6134/*
>
>
> *From:* Mike Kraus [mailto:n223rv@wolflakeairport.net]
> *Sent:* Thursday, January 05, 2006 9:41 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
> thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
> longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
> hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in
> the Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the
> door cut outs on each side.
>
> Thanks
>
> -Mike
>
Message 27
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| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
Roger that.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) [mailto:bob.condrey@baesystems.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 2:34 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I'm interested in seeing the defrost system!
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
I'll take a few pictures tonight and post them on Jeremy's web site.
www.jharris.net
Go to aviation then RV-10.
Jeremy is helping with my 10 and to date has done all of the work on the
panel.
Pictures to be taken: External power receptacle set up
Power board location on panel
Tray in tail for servos and ELT
Anyone interested in the defrost system?
Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend [mailto:Tdawson@avidyne.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:59 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
<Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Odyssey doesn't make a 24 volt battery that I know of and that's what we
wanted to use. Plus one can do a scheme like replace one of the
batteries every year (or two), to maintain a rotating constantly "new"
battery. (I think that idea came from Aero-Electric.)
Good point on the engine info display. Depends somewhat on your EFIS
and it's tolerance for voltage drops, too.
Got any pictures of your external power arrangement? Sounds nice.
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
incorrectly.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym@aviating.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
Message 28
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| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
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|
We haven't used West epoxy to install the windows. Not that far yet.
Will probably consider the Lancair stuff referenced below...
In general - the West System epoxy is a pretty good structural adhesive.
However, there are lots of them out there with different
characteristics. Some epoxies allow you to mix different ratios of
hardener and resin to get cures as hard as a rock or pliable as rubber.
Adding a matrix like cotton flocks just makes the epoxy less prone to
cracking. However, the finish isn't as nice as with micro balloons but
you trade finish for strength. The note about expansion and contraction
of the plexi is definitely worth considering...
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
________________________________
From: Sam Marlow [mailto:sam.marlow@adelphia.net]
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 9:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows
Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows? Is
that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it
work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy,
and return the window glue to Van's?
Harris, Jeremy P wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P"
<jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com> <mailto:jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
=09
Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to
use and is
available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast
(30 min),
slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and
cotton flox
seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well
for
filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints.
=09
=09
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
=09
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
=09
=09
-----Original Message-----
From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@itecusa.org]
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
=09
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint"
<jesse@itecusa.org> <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
=09
We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't
use Van's
recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder
recommended.
It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to
work
really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear,
than the
stuff that Van's sells.
=09
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions
regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to
talk to
me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be
on, but
it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
=09
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam
Marlow
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Windows
=09
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow
<sam.marlow@adelphia.net> <mailto:sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
=09
I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for
the
windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was
used?
Sam Marlow
Fuse RV10
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
When I wired up my sailplane I had the choice of either 12 or 24. My Becker
250W transponder gave me the option of either voltage, but the person in the
field who I consulted told me that the 24v system would allow the
transponder to function more efficiently. I don't know what this means,
whether it could mean better penetration strength or was it simply a
resistence issue in going from the batteries to the unit and not the unit to
the antenae. I don't remember the mathmatical formulas for voltage, amps
resistence
Maybe I was misinformed, but it works fine.
John 40409
>From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 10:10:38 -0700 (MST)
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
>
>I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small plane,
>I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
>to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
>should consider 24V.
>
>Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> > YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
> >
> >
> >
> > Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in series
> > . . .
> >
> >
> >
> > (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
> >
> >
> >
> > TDT
> >
> > 40025
> >
>
>
Message 30
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| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
I think the contraction and expansion issue is everything with regards to
canopies, they expand and contract a HUGE amount.
John
>From: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
>Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 12:13:47 -0800
>
>We haven't used West epoxy to install the windows. Not that far yet.
>Will probably consider the Lancair stuff referenced below...
>
>In general - the West System epoxy is a pretty good structural adhesive.
>However, there are lots of them out there with different
>characteristics. Some epoxies allow you to mix different ratios of
>hardener and resin to get cures as hard as a rock or pliable as rubber.
>Adding a matrix like cotton flocks just makes the epoxy less prone to
>cracking. However, the finish isn't as nice as with micro balloons but
>you trade finish for strength. The note about expansion and contraction
>of the plexi is definitely worth considering...
>
>
>Jeremy P. Harris
>Integrated Missile Defense
>BMDS Architectures Lab
>
>The Boeing Company
>Washington, DC
>Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
>Cell: (703) 627-6500
>Fax: (703) 414-6372
>MC: 793C-G007
>Office: 825B
>
>
>________________________________
>
>From: Sam Marlow [mailto:sam.marlow@adelphia.net]
>Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 9:09 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows
>
>
>Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows? Is
>that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it
>work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy,
>and return the window glue to Van's?
>
>Harris, Jeremy P wrote:
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P"
><jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com> <mailto:jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
>
> Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to
>use and is
> available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast
>(30 min),
> slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and
>cotton flox
> seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well
>for
> filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints.
>
>
> Jeremy P. Harris
> Integrated Missile Defense
> BMDS Architectures Lab
>
> The Boeing Company
> Washington, DC
> Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
> Cell: (703) 627-6500
> Fax: (703) 414-6372
> MC: 793C-G007
> Office: 825B
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@itecusa.org]
> Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint"
><jesse@itecusa.org> <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't
>use Van's
> recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder
>recommended.
> It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to
>work
> really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear,
>than the
> stuff that Van's sells.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions
>regarding I-TEC,
> please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to
>talk to
> me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be
>on, but
> it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam
>Marlow
> Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Windows
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow
><sam.marlow@adelphia.net> <mailto:sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
>
> I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for
>the
> windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was
>used?
> Sam Marlow
> Fuse RV10
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Chelton RV-10? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Creating the J2 interconnect cable is tedious but not difficult as every
socket on one connector maps to the same socket on the second connector.
Using solder leads and shielded pair 22g wire we created an 18" long
connector.( less than $200 in the parts and the 3 hours of hired avionics
labor for this cable). Agree with Tim that you want to create your own
harnesses as these won't pull through the holes and conduits with connectors
installed.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Chelton RV-10?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Having just done the wiring of the Cheltons, I can tell you
> this...
>
> 1: the "J2" harnesses (interconnects from screen to screen)
> would be good things to buy if you're going to buy anything.
> They have a lot of wires.
>
> 2: The "J3" harnesses (power, keyboard, autopilot on the PFD)
> are SUPER simple and involve very few wires. You could wire
> as few as 5 wires I think...if I remember right. Definitely
> best to just build them.
>
> 3: The "J1" harness (Interface to your radio stack, AHRS,
> GPS, Traffic, WSI, ...) has a few more wires, but it surely
> isn't very hard to build, and given the complexity of where
> you may want to mount your AHRS and things like that, I
> would not be interested in buying this harness. Best
> to custom build probably for everyone.
>
> So the harnesses involved in wiring the Chelton aren't
> very bad at all, except for the J2's. I purchased my
> system the last week that harnesses were included, so
> I didn't have to build those, but the J1's I basically
> decided to build my own, and the J3's I decided to chop
> theirs up a bit to eliminate some unused wires. So other
> than those straightforward screen inteconnects, the
> rest is mostly useless.
>
> Also, in regards to mounting, most builders will want to
> mount to suit their needs, and if harnesses are provided
> with ends on them, how do you pull them through
> conduit and snap bushings under the floor?
>
> Latest on the AHRS is the 2nd SB came out this week and
> they're expecting in Feb to begin to accept returns
> for either upgrade, or replacement from their pool of
> upgraded units, and then hopefully the Crossbow is
> good to go.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>>
>> I just called them a few days ago on this. Explanation at the time was
>> that it would include a cabling harness. I also had a conversation with
>> an avionics dealer that said the same thing. Apparently there's a LOT
>> of wiring and this will make life much easier. Neither of my
>> conversations revealed why it might be RV-10 specific since it seems
>> that prefab cable harnesses would be generic to any aircraft. I did ask
>> specifically whether some sort of mounting hardware would be included
>> for the AHRS and got a negative response.
>>
>> Also, there was a hint that they might offer some sort of special this
>> spring/summer to re-energize sales. Apparently sales have fallen off a
>> bit as a result of the AHRS issue. Crossbow is reportedly flight
>> testing an updated AHRS with good results.
>>
>> Bob #40105
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 12:26 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Chelton RV-10?
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>>
>> On direct2avionic's website they have a link to a new two screen Chelton
>>
>> specific to the RV-10. However, that link just goes to a page that
>> states "more info coming soon".
>>
>> <http://www.direct2avionics.com/efis_sv_10.html>
>>
>> Anyone know the specifics? How it is different from their "standard" two
>> screen package?
>>
>> Thanks...
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Cleary" <johncleary@mangertonnsw.com>
Rick,
Are you planning to use one of the Blue Mountains EFIS?
I agree wholeheartedly with you on the 24 volt explanation in 'Wiring for
Smart People'. For anybody who hasn't read it, it is downloadable free from
the Blue Mountains web site at the following link.
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/download.php#appnotes
John Cleary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Thursday, 12 January 2006 5:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
incorrectly.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym@aviating.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
Niko,
I don't have access right now to the plans, but they do tell you to bend both panels.
You will want to do the bend BEFORE you cut the baggage door from the
side panel. It helps keep the panel a little more rigid.
Jim C
#40192 - Fuselage
N312F Reserved
============================================================
From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
Does the F1070L skin (the one with the baggage door cutout) get bent the same time
the F1070R does? I don't see any mention of it at all.
Niko
----- Original Message ----
From: Mike Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 9:31:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
Talk to Van's. When I was talking to them about this, they mentioned it may be
rolled from the factory now. Not sure if they were talking about the front or
the rear, but they were working on having them formed from the factory.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 12:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
I tried to bend the F1070R fuse skin yesterday. It didn't go too well. I ended
up with a tear in the skin at the forward end of the bend line. I think my
problem was that instead of making the bending block out of hardwood I used 2
by 6 construction lumber which is much weeker. As a result the edge of the bending
block broke. Ordered new skin ($75) and a will be getting a piece of oak
to make the new bending block. Has anyone had a similar experience? Any suggestions
on this?
Niko
40188 Fuselage
============================================================
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Interior Lighting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Indran Chelvanayagam" <ichelva@netspace.net.au>
Great idea, Rick.
However - the light needs to be red to preserve night vision. This is
because rods (night-vision retinal photoreceptors) have their maximum
sensitivity in the blue part of the spectrum, although this is perceived in
"black & white". Night vision adaptation takes >30min to acquire, and
milliseconds to lose if exposed again to a bright light. Red light doesn't
activate the rods very much, while allowing the red cones (bright light
photoreceptors) to function.
So what you wrote was perfectly correct : "blue light doesn't not impair
night vision" (doesn't not = does)
Indran Chelvanayagam
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
I found a "unique" baggage compartment light. I installed a 30" tube inside
the cross brace. Notice when you open the baggage door all the way you have
access to the open end of the cross brace. The lights come with mounting
brackets. The brackets weren't easy to install, but it can be done. I
bought the tube at an automotive store. It's one of those lights you attach
to the chassis of your car. They come in different colors, I selected blue.
I installed a small rocker switch on the cross brace near the door. The
blue light lights the area great and it doesn't not impair your night
vision.
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Not to fuel any fire, but here's some comments regarding Greg's writing...
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/richter/richter.html>
-Sean #40303
John Cleary wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Cleary" <johncleary@mangertonnsw.com>
>
> Rick,
>
> Are you planning to use one of the Blue Mountains EFIS?
>
> I agree wholeheartedly with you on the 24 volt explanation in 'Wiring for
> Smart People'. For anybody who hasn't read it, it is downloadable free from
> the Blue Mountains web site at the following link.
>
> http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/download.php#appnotes
>
> John Cleary
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
> Sent: Thursday, 12 January 2006 5:50 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>
> Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
>
> Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
> people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
> pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
> running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
> system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
> to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
> also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
>
> While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
> bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
> power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
> prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
> incorrectly.
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> office: 703-414-6141
> cell: 571-215-6134
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym@aviating.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
>
> I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
> plane,
> I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
> to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
> should consider 24V.
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
>
>> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>>
>>
>>
>> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
>>
> series
>
>> . . .
>>
>>
>>
>> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>>
>>
>>
>> TDT
>>
>> 40025
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Interior Lighting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Anyone using the "ice blue" flatlight capacitance lighting system? Same
light is used in military and transport aircraft.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Indran Chelvanayagam" <ichelva@netspace.net.au>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 4:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Interior Lighting
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Indran Chelvanayagam"
> <ichelva@netspace.net.au>
>
>
> Great idea, Rick.
>
> However - the light needs to be red to preserve night vision. This is
> because rods (night-vision retinal photoreceptors) have their maximum
> sensitivity in the blue part of the spectrum, although this is perceived
> in
> "black & white". Night vision adaptation takes >30min to acquire, and
> milliseconds to lose if exposed again to a bright light. Red light doesn't
> activate the rods very much, while allowing the red cones (bright light
> photoreceptors) to function.
>
> So what you wrote was perfectly correct : "blue light doesn't not impair
> night vision" (doesn't not = does)
>
> Indran Chelvanayagam
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>
> I found a "unique" baggage compartment light. I installed a 30" tube
> inside
> the cross brace. Notice when you open the baggage door all the way you
> have
> access to the open end of the cross brace. The lights come with mounting
> brackets. The brackets weren't easy to install, but it can be done. I
> bought the tube at an automotive store. It's one of those lights you
> attach
> to the chassis of your car. They come in different colors, I selected
> blue.
> I installed a small rocker switch on the cross brace near the door. The
> blue light lights the area great and it doesn't not impair your night
> vision.
>
>
>
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
> From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
> Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
I have an Odyssey PC680 in my RV-7A, now just over two years old (and another new
one on the bench awaiting a swap at next oil change).
The Odyssey is indeed a very good battery, primarily because of small size, sealed
design and a very low internal resistance that gives it the 680 amp cranking
capacity that gives it the name.
It is basically a motorcycle battery and there are other cheaper batteries with
the same form factor, but you have to read the small print to see that the cheaper
ones have higher internal resistance, thus generate fewer amps and the possibility
of internal heat during high current operations.
It is called out in Van's FWF plans for the -7 and is a good design choice on their
part.
-Dan Masys
RV-7A flying
RV-10 tailcone mostly done
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
why do you swap every two years? The design life of the battery for the
military is over 10 years and the service life is considered to be 5-8
years.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 4:55 PM
Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
>
>
>> From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>
>> Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
>
> I have an Odyssey PC680 in my RV-7A, now just over two years old (and
> another new one on the bench awaiting a swap at next oil change).
>
> The Odyssey is indeed a very good battery, primarily because of small
> size, sealed design and a very low internal resistance that gives it the
> 680 amp cranking capacity that gives it the name.
>
> It is basically a motorcycle battery and there are other cheaper batteries
> with the same form factor, but you have to read the small print to see
> that the cheaper ones have higher internal resistance, thus generate fewer
> amps and the possibility of internal heat during high current operations.
>
> It is called out in Van's FWF plans for the -7 and is a good design choice
> on their part.
>
> -Dan Masys
> RV-7A flying
> RV-10 tailcone mostly done
>
>
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
> From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
> Date: 2006/01/11 Wed PM 07:15:14 EST
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
> why do you swap every two years? The design life of the battery for the military
is over 10 years and the service life is considered to be 5-8 years.
Wasn't actually planning on every two years necessarily, though I appreciate my
post made it seem that way. The older PC680 (only battery the -7A has ever had)
is going to become the bench test battery for the RV-10, so the -7 is the
beneficiary of the swap.
The smarter way to do this is Aeroelectric's timing setup annually that puts a
load on the battery till its dead and measures time under load. The dumber, 'cheap
insurance' way is just to swap it out before it has a chance to become even
a potential problem.
-Dan Masys
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys@cox.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 4:55 PM
> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
> >
> >
> >
> >> From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
> >
> >> Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
> >
> > I have an Odyssey PC680 in my RV-7A, now just over two years old (and
> > another new one on the bench awaiting a swap at next oil change).
> >
> > The Odyssey is indeed a very good battery, primarily because of small
> > size, sealed design and a very low internal resistance that gives it the
> > 680 amp cranking capacity that gives it the name.
> >
> > It is basically a motorcycle battery and there are other cheaper batteries
> > with the same form factor, but you have to read the small print to see
> > that the cheaper ones have higher internal resistance, thus generate fewer
> > amps and the possibility of internal heat during high current operations.
> >
> > It is called out in Van's FWF plans for the -7 and is a good design choice
> > on their part.
> >
> > -Dan Masys
> > RV-7A flying
> > RV-10 tailcone mostly done
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
BTW the link is http://www.enersysreservepower.com/ody_b.asp?brandID=5.
check the specs. I am using the 925 in my wife's car to avoid the every two
year replacement in the AZ sun. Have a 925 as backup in the Glastar and a
680 on the firewall for starting. The 10 will have two 680 each capable of
starting.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
>
> why do you swap every two years? The design life of the battery for the
> military is over 10 years and the service life is considered to be 5-8
> years.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys@cox.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 4:55 PM
> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
>>
>>
>>
>>> From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>>
>>> Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
>>
>> I have an Odyssey PC680 in my RV-7A, now just over two years old (and
>> another new one on the bench awaiting a swap at next oil change).
>>
>> The Odyssey is indeed a very good battery, primarily because of small
>> size, sealed design and a very low internal resistance that gives it the
>> 680 amp cranking capacity that gives it the name.
>>
>> It is basically a motorcycle battery and there are other cheaper
>> batteries with the same form factor, but you have to read the small print
>> to see that the cheaper ones have higher internal resistance, thus
>> generate fewer amps and the possibility of internal heat during high
>> current operations.
>>
>> It is called out in Van's FWF plans for the -7 and is a good design
>> choice on their part.
>>
>> -Dan Masys
>> RV-7A flying
>> RV-10 tailcone mostly done
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
NO I DON'T OWN ANY STOCK but
You are here: EnerSys Home > Reserve Power > Odyssey Batteries
Odyssey Drycell T Batteries
a.. GUARANTEED LONGER SERVICE LIFE With a twelve year military grade
design life and a six-to-ten year service life, ODYSSEY saves you time and
money because you do not have to replace the battery as often. ODYSSEY has
the powersport exclusive 2-year full warranty against factory defects or
three full years in automotive, commercial and heavy-duty marine.
b.. SUPERIOR CRANKING AND FAST CHARGE CAPABILITY The 5 second
cranking power of ODYSSEY batteries is double to triple that of equally
sized conventional batteries, even when the temperature is as low as -40C.
Also, with simple constant voltage charging (14.2-15V) (alternator or
independent charger), there is no limitation on the in rush current, so the
user is assured of fast charge recovery.
c.. MOUNTING FLEXIBILITY The ODYSSEY battery may be installed
on its sides at any angle without sacrificing any performance attributes.
There is no fear of any acid spillage as ODYSSEY recycles the internal gas
during operation or charging.
d.. SUPERIOR VIBRATION RESISTANCE ODYSSEY batteries are of
military grade and have endured rigorous tests that demonstrate their
overall ruggedness and exceptional tolerance of mechanical abuse.
e.. READY OUT OF THE BOX ODYSSEY batteries are shipped fully
charged. If ODYSSEY'S voltage is 12.65V or greater simply install the
battery in your vehicle and you are ready to go! If below 12.65V, boost
charge following the instructions in the ODYSSEY Owner's Manual.
f.. WORRY-FREE SHIPPING The sealed design of the ODYSSEY
battery eliminates the need for a acid vent tube; eliminating the fear of
acid burns or damage to expensive chrome or paint. Owing to the DrycellT
design, the US Department of Transportation (USDOT) has classified the
ODYSSEY battery as a dry battery, so it may be shipped worry-free by
UPS/Federal Express or by air as non-spillable.
g.. LONGER STORAGE LIFE Unlike conventional batteries that
need to be recharged every six to twelve weeks the ODYSSEY battery, when
fully charged, can be stored for up to 2 years at 25C (77F). Simply
recharge and ODYSSEY is returned to full power. At lower temperatures,
storage times will be even longer.
h.. DEEP DISCHARGE RECOVERY Should ODYSSEY become deeply
discharged, simply recharge following instructions in the ODYSSEY Owners
Manual.
There is a also a pdf that explains the development of the
product
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 6:10 PM
Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
>
>> From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
>> Date: 2006/01/11 Wed PM 07:15:14 EST
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
>> why do you swap every two years? The design life of the battery for the
>> military is over 10 years and the service life is considered to be 5-8
>> years.
>
> Wasn't actually planning on every two years necessarily, though I
> appreciate my post made it seem that way. The older PC680 (only battery
> the -7A has ever had) is going to become the bench test battery for the
> RV-10, so the -7 is the beneficiary of the swap.
>
> The smarter way to do this is Aeroelectric's timing setup annually that
> puts a load on the battery till its dead and measures time under load.
> The dumber, 'cheap insurance' way is just to swap it out before it has a
> chance to become even a potential problem.
>
> -Dan Masys
>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys@cox.net>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 4:55 PM
>> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>>
>>
>> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >> From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>> >
>> >> Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
>> >
>> > I have an Odyssey PC680 in my RV-7A, now just over two years old (and
>> > another new one on the bench awaiting a swap at next oil change).
>> >
>> > The Odyssey is indeed a very good battery, primarily because of small
>> > size, sealed design and a very low internal resistance that gives it
>> > the
>> > 680 amp cranking capacity that gives it the name.
>> >
>> > It is basically a motorcycle battery and there are other cheaper
>> > batteries
>> > with the same form factor, but you have to read the small print to see
>> > that the cheaper ones have higher internal resistance, thus generate
>> > fewer
>> > amps and the possibility of internal heat during high current
>> > operations.
>> >
>> > It is called out in Van's FWF plans for the -7 and is a good design
>> > choice
>> > on their part.
>> >
>> > -Dan Masys
>> > RV-7A flying
>> > RV-10 tailcone mostly done
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
Yeah, let's not re-hash old debates here . . .
TDT
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Sean Stephens
Sent: Wed 1/11/2006 6:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Not to fuel any fire, but here's some comments regarding Greg's writing...
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/richter/richter.html>
-Sean #40303
John Cleary wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Cleary" <johncleary@mangertonnsw.com>
>
> Rick,
>
> Are you planning to use one of the Blue Mountains EFIS?
>
> I agree wholeheartedly with you on the 24 volt explanation in 'Wiring for
> Smart People'. For anybody who hasn't read it, it is downloadable free from
> the Blue Mountains web site at the following link.
>
> http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/download.php#appnotes
>
> John Cleary
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
> Sent: Thursday, 12 January 2006 5:50 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>
> Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
>
> Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
> people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
> pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
> running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
> system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
> to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
> also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
>
> While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
> bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
> power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
> prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
> incorrectly.
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> office: 703-414-6141
> cell: 571-215-6134
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym@aviating.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
>
> I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
> plane,
> I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
> to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
> should consider 24V.
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
>
>> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>>
>>
>>
>> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
>>
> series
>
>> . . .
>>
>>
>>
>> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>>
>>
>>
>> TDT
>>
>> 40025
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
Those Odyssey 680s are about $80 - 85 if I remember - cheap insurance to swap one
every couple of years . . .
Give the used one to a motorcycle-driving friend . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Dan Masys
Sent: Wed 1/11/2006 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
> From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
> Date: 2006/01/11 Wed PM 07:15:14 EST
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
> why do you swap every two years? The design life of the battery for the military
is over 10 years and the service life is considered to be 5-8 years.
Wasn't actually planning on every two years necessarily, though I appreciate my
post made it seem that way. The older PC680 (only battery the -7A has ever had)
is going to become the bench test battery for the RV-10, so the -7 is the
beneficiary of the swap.
The smarter way to do this is Aeroelectric's timing setup annually that puts a
load on the battery till its dead and measures time under load. The dumber, 'cheap
insurance' way is just to swap it out before it has a chance to become even
a potential problem.
-Dan Masys
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys@cox.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 4:55 PM
> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
> >
> >
> >
> >> From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
> >
> >> Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
> >
> > I have an Odyssey PC680 in my RV-7A, now just over two years old (and
> > another new one on the bench awaiting a swap at next oil change).
> >
> > The Odyssey is indeed a very good battery, primarily because of small
> > size, sealed design and a very low internal resistance that gives it the
> > 680 amp cranking capacity that gives it the name.
> >
> > It is basically a motorcycle battery and there are other cheaper batteries
> > with the same form factor, but you have to read the small print to see
> > that the cheaper ones have higher internal resistance, thus generate fewer
> > amps and the possibility of internal heat during high current operations.
> >
> > It is called out in Van's FWF plans for the -7 and is a good design choice
> > on their part.
> >
> > -Dan Masys
> > RV-7A flying
> > RV-10 tailcone mostly done
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | Re: Visit to Randy to measure control throws |
Sean
My kit came with the teardrop hole.
Attached is a scan of the doubler plate for the left rear spar after fitting
(it fits my scanner better).
You are looking at the side of the doubler that fits up to the rear spar.
It should be full scale, verify with the hole spacing.
Hope this helps
John
40359
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy@cox.net>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Visit to Randy to measure control throws
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> My slowbuild wings came with the rectangle instead of the teardrop.
> Guess I'll have to keep that in mind as I'm getting to that point soon.
>
> Thanks
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> do not archive
>
> Chris wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" <toaster73@earthlink.net>
> >
> > My rear spar (slow build) came with the tear drop shape hole. I have
> > set up the aileron control already except for the fuel tank end. If I
> > move the aileron the 12.6 deg's I have no issue, I need a helper to
> > see what angle results in a rub of the rod to the spar, maybe 15
> > degrees. It is barely good, so once I get everything on for "real" I
> > will be looking at it again.
> > -Chris
> > #40072
> >
> >
> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Eric Panning
> >> <ericmpmail-rv10@yahoo.com>
> >>
> >> Chris,
> >>
> >> Thanks for the links. Mine are like Mike Howe's and
> >> (like him) I traced the rounded off retangle into the
> >> doubler.
> >>
> >> Did your comes as teardrop from the factory? Looking
> >> at the photo's you can see the tear drop is bigger
> >> than the retangle. It is the the same shape and size I
> >> need to allow the aileron free travel to the stop.
> >>
> >> I think people should check their rear spar and verify
> >> that they have sufficient clearance. Don't rely on
> >> sound as it makes a "clunk" as if it hit the stop
> >> (when it's actually hitting the control rod).
> >>
> >> I subsequently spoke with Randy and he opened up his
> >> rectangle to more tear dropped for clearance as well.
> >>
> >> I wish I knew about this issue before I riveted the
> >> spar together but I'm glad that I know about it prior
> >> to flying. My numbers are you need about 1/4 inch
> >> additional clearance on the lower portion.
> >>
> >> If you are still working on the wing kit you can check
> >> this ahead of time by assembling the powder coated
> >> parts of the aileron control system. You need only get
> >> out the bellcrank, one aileron mount, cut the rod to
> >> length and drill for the threaded ends. You can you
> >> slide a rivet in to hold the ends on.
> >>
> >> What is it like on the quickbuild wings?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Eric
> >>
> >> --- Chris <toaster73@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >>
> >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris"
> >>> <toaster73@earthlink.net>
> >>>
> >>> Is the hole through your rear spar a "modified
> >>> teardrop shape or a uniform
> >>> rectangle with rounded corners. I seem to remember
> >>> seeing both types in
> >>> various website photos:
> >>> Look at the bottom 2 pictures on the following page
> >>> on Mike Howe's or Tims
> >>> site:
> >>> http://www.etigerrr.com/Wings/september_6_2004.htm
> >>> and then this picture on William Curtis site
> >>> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/wings36.html
> >>>
> >>> My cut outs are like Williams , maybe has something
> >>> to do with it?
> >>>
> >>> Chris Lucas
> >>> #40072
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | Interior Lighting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
The military uses blue in all of the combat spaces as this does not
effect night vision and still lets you distinguish warning lights in
color. They used to use red but too many warning lights were being
missed. This is not to say it is a really bright light, but more of a
bedroom night light intensity. This makes the transition from the bridge
to combat and back again safer without destroying night vision.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Indran
Chelvanayagam
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 6:02 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Interior Lighting
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Indran Chelvanayagam"
<ichelva@netspace.net.au>
Great idea, Rick.
However - the light needs to be red to preserve night vision. This is
because rods (night-vision retinal photoreceptors) have their maximum
sensitivity in the blue part of the spectrum, although this is perceived
in
"black & white". Night vision adaptation takes >30min to acquire, and
milliseconds to lose if exposed again to a bright light. Red light
doesn't
activate the rods very much, while allowing the red cones (bright light
photoreceptors) to function.
So what you wrote was perfectly correct : "blue light doesn't not impair
night vision" (doesn't not = does)
Indran Chelvanayagam
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
I found a "unique" baggage compartment light. I installed a 30" tube
inside
the cross brace. Notice when you open the baggage door all the way you
have
access to the open end of the cross brace. The lights come with
mounting
brackets. The brackets weren't easy to install, but it can be done. I
bought the tube at an automotive store. It's one of those lights you
attach
to the chassis of your car. They come in different colors, I selected
blue.
I installed a small rocker switch on the cross brace near the door. The
blue light lights the area great and it doesn't not impair your night
vision.
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Re: Interior Lighting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
And red lights also make the magenta color disappear from your charts
...... take a look at just how much info is printed in magenta!
Linn
do not archive
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>
>The military uses blue in all of the combat spaces as this does not
>effect night vision and still lets you distinguish warning lights in
>color. They used to use red but too many warning lights were being
>missed. This is not to say it is a really bright light, but more of a
>bedroom night light intensity. This makes the transition from the bridge
>to combat and back again safer without destroying night vision.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Indran
>Chelvanayagam
>Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 6:02 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Interior Lighting
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Indran Chelvanayagam"
><ichelva@netspace.net.au>
>
>
>Great idea, Rick.
>
>However - the light needs to be red to preserve night vision. This is
>because rods (night-vision retinal photoreceptors) have their maximum
>sensitivity in the blue part of the spectrum, although this is perceived
>in
>"black & white". Night vision adaptation takes >30min to acquire, and
>milliseconds to lose if exposed again to a bright light. Red light
>doesn't
>activate the rods very much, while allowing the red cones (bright light
>photoreceptors) to function.
>
>So what you wrote was perfectly correct : "blue light doesn't not impair
>night vision" (doesn't not = does)
>
>Indran Chelvanayagam
>
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>
>I found a "unique" baggage compartment light. I installed a 30" tube
>inside
>the cross brace. Notice when you open the baggage door all the way you
>have
>access to the open end of the cross brace. The lights come with
>mounting
>brackets. The brackets weren't easy to install, but it can be done. I
>bought the tube at an automotive store. It's one of those lights you
>attach
>to the chassis of your car. They come in different colors, I selected
>blue.
>I installed a small rocker switch on the cross brace near the door. The
>blue light lights the area great and it doesn't not impair your night
>vision.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Interior Lighting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
Agree wholeheartedly. Give me the bluish-white of a dim LED light over red
any day. Army aviation teaches that after being in a red-light flooded
environment to night adapt, you still need at least another 5 minutes in the
"real" dark to be fully night adapted. You oughta try it some time so you
know just how much your color perception is off for a period after leaving
the red and walking outside, not to mention trying to use green-colored NVGs
right then too.
So for as long as I'll have my night-adapted eyes looking in the baggage
compartment, I'll take the blue/white. My eyes'll be fully back to "night
mode" by the time I get to the taxi checklist.
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 8:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Interior Lighting
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
The military uses blue in all of the combat spaces as this does not
effect night vision and still lets you distinguish warning lights in
color. They used to use red but too many warning lights were being
missed. This is not to say it is a really bright light, but more of a
bedroom night light intensity. This makes the transition from the bridge
to combat and back again safer without destroying night vision.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Indran
Chelvanayagam
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 6:02 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Interior Lighting
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Indran Chelvanayagam"
<ichelva@netspace.net.au>
Great idea, Rick.
However - the light needs to be red to preserve night vision. This is
because rods (night-vision retinal photoreceptors) have their maximum
sensitivity in the blue part of the spectrum, although this is perceived
in
"black & white". Night vision adaptation takes >30min to acquire, and
milliseconds to lose if exposed again to a bright light. Red light
doesn't
activate the rods very much, while allowing the red cones (bright light
photoreceptors) to function.
So what you wrote was perfectly correct : "blue light doesn't not impair
night vision" (doesn't not = does)
Indran Chelvanayagam
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
I found a "unique" baggage compartment light. I installed a 30" tube
inside
the cross brace. Notice when you open the baggage door all the way you
have
access to the open end of the cross brace. The lights come with
mounting
brackets. The brackets weren't easy to install, but it can be done. I
bought the tube at an automotive store. It's one of those lights you
attach
to the chassis of your car. They come in different colors, I selected
blue.
I installed a small rocker switch on the cross brace near the door. The
blue light lights the area great and it doesn't not impair your night
vision.
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Re: QB Kit Quality |
Greetings,
I recently took the plunge on an empennage kit and am contemplating going QB
versus Standard for the Wings and Fuse. What is the consensus on the quality
and workmanship of the QB kits ? Any and all comments are appreciated.
Mike
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: QB Kit Quality |
I'm sure the 10 QB quality is as good as my 6. Their workmanship is very
good, and the value is way worth the time it saves you to get it airborne.
Steve
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: rv10builder <rv10builder@bellsouth.net>
Hey folks,
I'm usually quiet, but I gotta chime in on this one. I am a telecom
engineer, and one of my responsibilities is to maintain several large DC
power plants (-48V, 2K - 6K amps). My plants utilize flooded cells,
while those of my coworkers utilize VRLA's. The main difference in our
routines of monitoring and testing batteries is they are constantly
replacing them (while I am not). The same folks that manufacture
batteries for my company also make those that fit in experimental
airplanes. If you intend to use a "sealed" battery in your ship like I
do, you are welcome to mine following my annual. I intend to include
the $85 in the annual budget for battery replacement.
do not archive
Brian
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>Those Odyssey 680s are about $80 - 85 if I remember - cheap insurance to swap
one every couple of years . . .
>
>Give the used one to a motorcycle-driving friend . . .
>
>TDT
>40025
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Dan Masys
>Sent: Wed 1/11/2006 8:10 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
>
>
>
>>From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
>>Date: 2006/01/11 Wed PM 07:15:14 EST
>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>why do you swap every two years? The design life of the battery for the military
is over 10 years and the service life is considered to be 5-8 years.
>>
>>
>
>Wasn't actually planning on every two years necessarily, though I appreciate my
post made it seem that way. The older PC680 (only battery the -7A has ever
had) is going to become the bench test battery for the RV-10, so the -7 is the
beneficiary of the swap.
>
>The smarter way to do this is Aeroelectric's timing setup annually that puts a
load on the battery till its dead and measures time under load. The dumber,
'cheap insurance' way is just to swap it out before it has a chance to become
even a potential problem.
>
>-Dan Masys
>
>
>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys@cox.net>
>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 4:55 PM
>>Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>I have an Odyssey PC680 in my RV-7A, now just over two years old (and
>>>another new one on the bench awaiting a swap at next oil change).
>>>
>>>The Odyssey is indeed a very good battery, primarily because of small
>>>size, sealed design and a very low internal resistance that gives it the
>>>680 amp cranking capacity that gives it the name.
>>>
>>>It is basically a motorcycle battery and there are other cheaper batteries
>>>with the same form factor, but you have to read the small print to see
>>>that the cheaper ones have higher internal resistance, thus generate fewer
>>>amps and the possibility of internal heat during high current operations.
>>>
>>>It is called out in Van's FWF plans for the -7 and is a good design choice
>>>on their part.
>>>
>>>-Dan Masys
>>>RV-7A flying
>>>RV-10 tailcone mostly done
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>====================================
>====================================
>====================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: QB Kit Quality |
--> RV10-List message posted by: gengrumpy@aol.com
My QB wings and fuselage have been excellent!
I'd do it again.
grumpy #40404
-----Original Message-----
From: mj.swanson@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 19:39:50 -0800
Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB Kit Quality
Greetings,
I recently took the plunge on an empennage kit and am contemplating
going QB versus Standard for the Wings and Fuse. What is the consensus
on the quality and workmanship of the QB kits ? Any and all comments
are appreciated.
Mike
Message 52
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| Subject: | Interior Lighting |
Do people still use paper charts? : )
TDT
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of linn walters
Sent: Wed 1/11/2006 10:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Interior Lighting
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
And red lights also make the magenta color disappear from your charts
...... take a look at just how much info is printed in magenta!
Linn
do not archive
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>
>The military uses blue in all of the combat spaces as this does not
>effect night vision and still lets you distinguish warning lights in
>color. They used to use red but too many warning lights were being
>missed. This is not to say it is a really bright light, but more of a
>bedroom night light intensity. This makes the transition from the bridge
>to combat and back again safer without destroying night vision.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Indran
>Chelvanayagam
>Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 6:02 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Interior Lighting
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Indran Chelvanayagam"
><ichelva@netspace.net.au>
>
>
>Great idea, Rick.
>
>However - the light needs to be red to preserve night vision. This is
>because rods (night-vision retinal photoreceptors) have their maximum
>sensitivity in the blue part of the spectrum, although this is perceived
>in
>"black & white". Night vision adaptation takes >30min to acquire, and
>milliseconds to lose if exposed again to a bright light. Red light
>doesn't
>activate the rods very much, while allowing the red cones (bright light
>photoreceptors) to function.
>
>So what you wrote was perfectly correct : "blue light doesn't not impair
>night vision" (doesn't not =3D does)
>
>Indran Chelvanayagam
>
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>
>I found a "unique" baggage compartment light. I installed a 30" tube
>inside
>the cross brace. Notice when you open the baggage door all the way you
>have
>access to the open end of the cross brace. The lights come with
>mounting
>brackets. The brackets weren't easy to install, but it can be done. I
>bought the tube at an automotive store. It's one of those lights you
>attach
>to the chassis of your car. They come in different colors, I selected
>blue.
>I installed a small rocker switch on the cross brace near the door. The
>blue light lights the area great and it doesn't not impair your night
>vision.
>
>
>
>
--
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: QB Kit Quality |
If you're near HMT there's a 10 QB you can look at, very well done.
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