Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:47 AM - Re: Re: QB Kit Quality (Russell Daves)
2. 06:48 AM - Aluminum angle (Bill and Tami Britton)
3. 06:57 AM - Re: Aluminum angle (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
4. 07:25 AM - Re: Re: QB Kit Quality (Albert Gardner)
5. 07:28 AM - Re: Aluminum angle (Tim Olson)
6. 08:33 AM - Photos Have Been Posted (Conti, Rick)
7. 08:44 AM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (Conti, Rick)
8. 09:04 AM - Re: Photos Have Been Posted (Tim Olson)
9. 09:11 AM - Re: Aluminum angle (RAS)
10. 10:02 AM - Alodine inside fuel tanks? (Chris Johnston)
11. 12:40 PM - Re: Alodine inside fuel tanks? (James Hein)
12. 02:42 PM - Re: Photos Have Been Posted (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
13. 02:55 PM - Re: Photos Have Been Posted (Conti, Rick)
14. 02:57 PM - Re: Photos Have Been Posted (Larry Rosen)
15. 03:09 PM - Fuel Senders, Gauges, Accuracy (James Hein)
16. 03:12 PM - Re: Photos Have Been Posted (Conti, Rick)
17. 03:40 PM - Heating issue in center console (Tim Lewis)
18. 03:54 PM - Re: Fuel Senders, Gauges, Accuracy (Darton Steve)
19. 03:56 PM - center console access (David McNeill)
20. 03:58 PM - Re: Heating issue in center console (McGANN, Ron)
21. 05:49 PM - Re: Alodine inside fuel tanks? (John W. Cox)
22. 06:27 PM - Re: Alodine inside fuel tanks? (James Hein)
23. 06:59 PM - Re: Heating issue in center console (Larry Rosen)
24. 08:27 PM - Re: Alodine inside fuel tanks? (Tim Olson)
25. 08:51 PM - This is a test with the List MIME turned off. (Matt Dralle)
26. 10:07 PM - Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection (John Cleary)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: QB Kit Quality |
My QB wings and fuselage have real good workmanship. After seeing my buddies slow
build and my QB I anticipate the number of hours saved equals about $5.00
per hour cost savings to me. I know I am really slow, but I have to read the
plans at least three times to be sure I don't screw up really bad.
For those more experienced RV builders the cost of the QB time savings might be
more like $15.00 per hour.
Russ Daves
#40044 working on canopy top
----- Original Message -----
From: mj.swanson@sbcglobal.net
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 9:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB Kit Quality
Greetings,
I recently took the plunge on an empennage kit and am contemplating going QB
versus Standard for the Wings and Fuse. What is the consensus on the quality
and workmanship of the QB kits ? Any and all comments are appreciated.
Mike
Message 2
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I am coming up short a piece of aluminum angle for the -10 emp kit. It is AA6-063X
3/4 X 3/4 X 18. What does the "AA6" mean. I know that AA is aluminum angle,
but what is the "6". I'll try to find a piece locally before I have to wait
2 weeks for another delivery from Vans. Meanwhile, would anybody that won't
need this piece for awhile be willing to let me have it and I'll replace it
when I get one from Vans???
Thanks,
Bill Britton
Message 3
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I'm sure I've got some sitting around - contact me off list if you still
need it.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 8:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Aluminum angle
I am coming up short a piece of aluminum angle for the -10 emp kit. It
is AA6-063X 3/4 X 3/4 X 18. What does the "AA6" mean. I know that AA
is aluminum angle, but what is the "6". I'll try to find a piece
locally before I have to wait 2 weeks for another delivery from Vans.
Meanwhile, would anybody that won't need this piece for awhile be
willing to let me have it and I'll replace it when I get one from
Vans???
Thanks,
Bill Britton
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: QB Kit Quality |
On the other hand, if you enjoy building, paying extra to have someone else
do the work is like paying someone else to go to the movies, dinner, etc.,
for you.
Albert (I'd rather do it myself) Gardner
#40422
Yuma, AZ
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum angle |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I think that's just their way of saying "Aluminum Angle 6061-T6"
I'd help you out on the material, but I have some on order right
now that I'm waiting for too.
Advice for people starting out with the build:
On your next order, order a couple of 6' lengths of
AA6-063X3/4X3/4X6' ($6.50)
and order a length or two of
AA6-125X1X1X6'($8.25)
And maybe a couple of
AA6-125X3/4X3/4X6 ($8.80)
And if you're really wanting to have some material, some
AA6-125X1 1/2X2X30 ($6.75)
That way you can get it all shipped together in a long tube.
If it were me, I'd get even more than the above, but you'll
find it extremely handy when you A) Mis-cut something (happened
to me once...having a 6' hunk of 3/4 angle saved my butt), or
B) want to fabricate brackets for things or make mods.
I did a special reinforcement around my stall warning access
hole to prevent oil-canning of the skin, made brackets to mount
my strobe pack, made a mounting for my AHRS, used Angle to reinforce
the panel where I cut the ribs, used some to replace the lower
aft facing "ears" on the lower panel rail after I cut them off so
I could silkscreen that lower bar. All sorts of things you can
do with angle. I only wish I'd have ordered a bit more 063
angle, as that's what I'm waiting for today.
It's only money, right. ;) Don't cringe at spending a little
bit on hardware...you'll save it in piece of mind.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> I am coming up short a piece of aluminum angle for the -10 emp kit. It
> is AA6-063X 3/4 X 3/4 X 18. What does the "AA6" mean. I know that AA
> is aluminum angle, but what is the "6". I'll try to find a piece
> locally before I have to wait 2 weeks for another delivery from Vans.
> Meanwhile, would anybody that won't need this piece for awhile be
> willing to let me have it and I'll replace it when I get one from Vans???
>
> Thanks,
> Bill Britton
Message 6
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| Subject: | Photos Have Been Posted |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
All,
As promised I took 31 photos last night and Jeremy was kind enough to
post them on his personal web site.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Anticipating questions:
1. The black box on the aft aux tray is a variable voltage divider
to provide 12 volts to the baggage lights.
2. The small baggage light was added later to light a "dark" spot.
Easily removed if I decide to do so.
3. Control Grip junction box - I bought the CH Products 5 button
grips for both pilot and copilot. All buttons, except PTT are common.
(By the way Kevin at CH Products is great to work with)
4. The defrost system uses the rear seat heat. Yes, rear seat
passengers go without heat when the defrosters are in use. I forgot to
take a picture of the top of the panel, but I have installed two
deflectors from a Piper Cherokee.
5. If you look closely at the external power close-up photo, you'll
notice the entire set up is removable from the rear, leaving only a hole
in the bulk head that the door sits in.
6. False floor - remember the heating issue in the center console?
I spoke with the pilot who posted that data. Jeremy and I considered
venting the center area, but couldn't find a good way to get the vented
air out of the plane. Instead, several layers of insulation have been
installed under the false floor. Hopefully this will do the job. I was
told the heat was caused by the cowling air exit being located directly
in the center of the fuselage. It is not an exhaust gas temperature
issue.
7. The insulation is wrapped with aluminum foil because if provides
better sound insulation for the higher frequencies.
8. Magnetometer installation is very very close to level and very
stable.
9. Pre-oil switch grounds the magnetos. First, let's not start
another discussion on the value of pre-oilers. You are entitled to your
opinion, bottom line - I am installing one. Here is the explanation for
grounding the mags. My starting sequence is as follows:
Pre-oiler switch on (mags grounded). Pre-oil is not
wired through the master switch.
Complete external pre-flight.
Turn on master switch. EFIS and aux fuel pump are
powered, no gyros or radios are powered. I don't like gyros spinning
just because the master switch is on.
Turn engine over 2/3 rotations with ignition to
distribute oil. Engine will not fire (mags grounded). I have no desire
to hand prop.
Prime engine.
Turn pre-oiler off.
Start engine.
Turn on avionics master.
10. If the area around the power board looks like a rat's nest
you're wrong. Even rats wouldn't live in a dump like that.
Finally, having a pre-oiler and not being able to use it in flights
doesn't make much sense. There will be a switch (under the panel with a
safety cover) that parallels only the pre-oiler power.
Hope this helps.
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
Message 7
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| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
I have one. See Jeremy's web site for pictures.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Very import, if you order one, ask for the variant that has been rotated
90 degrees. They'll know what you mean. I asked and they modified the
unit for the 10. Notice in the pictures the connectors face aft, veeery
nice.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: John Cleary [mailto:johncleary@mangertonnsw.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 5:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Cleary"
<johncleary@mangertonnsw.com>
Rick,
Are you planning to use one of the Blue Mountains EFIS?
I agree wholeheartedly with you on the 24 volt explanation in 'Wiring
for
Smart People'. For anybody who hasn't read it, it is downloadable free
from
the Blue Mountains web site at the following link.
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/download.php#appnotes
John Cleary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Thursday, 12 January 2006 5:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
incorrectly.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym@aviating.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Photos Have Been Posted |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Very cool mods Rick, I especially liked the one for the pilot/copilot
sticks under the seat. I am just going to start the wiring on that and
you've given me the great idea to try to think through.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Conti, Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>
> All,
>
> As promised I took 31 photos last night and Jeremy was kind enough to
> post them on his personal web site.
>
> http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
>
> Anticipating questions:
> 1. The black box on the aft aux tray is a variable voltage divider
> to provide 12 volts to the baggage lights.
> 2. The small baggage light was added later to light a "dark" spot.
> Easily removed if I decide to do so.
> 3. Control Grip junction box - I bought the CH Products 5 button
> grips for both pilot and copilot. All buttons, except PTT are common.
> (By the way Kevin at CH Products is great to work with)
> 4. The defrost system uses the rear seat heat. Yes, rear seat
> passengers go without heat when the defrosters are in use. I forgot to
> take a picture of the top of the panel, but I have installed two
> deflectors from a Piper Cherokee.
> 5. If you look closely at the external power close-up photo, you'll
> notice the entire set up is removable from the rear, leaving only a hole
> in the bulk head that the door sits in.
> 6. False floor - remember the heating issue in the center console?
> I spoke with the pilot who posted that data. Jeremy and I considered
> venting the center area, but couldn't find a good way to get the vented
> air out of the plane. Instead, several layers of insulation have been
> installed under the false floor. Hopefully this will do the job. I was
> told the heat was caused by the cowling air exit being located directly
> in the center of the fuselage. It is not an exhaust gas temperature
> issue.
> 7. The insulation is wrapped with aluminum foil because if provides
> better sound insulation for the higher frequencies.
> 8. Magnetometer installation is very very close to level and very
> stable.
> 9. Pre-oil switch grounds the magnetos. First, let's not start
> another discussion on the value of pre-oilers. You are entitled to your
> opinion, bottom line - I am installing one. Here is the explanation for
> grounding the mags. My starting sequence is as follows:
> Pre-oiler switch on (mags grounded). Pre-oil is not
> wired through the master switch.
> Complete external pre-flight.
> Turn on master switch. EFIS and aux fuel pump are
> powered, no gyros or radios are powered. I don't like gyros spinning
> just because the master switch is on.
> Turn engine over 2/3 rotations with ignition to
> distribute oil. Engine will not fire (mags grounded). I have no desire
> to hand prop.
> Prime engine.
> Turn pre-oiler off.
> Start engine.
> Turn on avionics master.
> 10. If the area around the power board looks like a rat's nest
> you're wrong. Even rats wouldn't live in a dump like that.
>
> Finally, having a pre-oiler and not being able to use it in flights
> doesn't make much sense. There will be a switch (under the panel with a
> safety cover) that parallels only the pre-oiler power.
>
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> Senior Engineering Manager
> The Boeing Company
> office: 703 - 414 - 6141
> blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum angle |
aluminum angle 6061T6
marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 2:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aluminum angle
I am coming up short a piece of aluminum angle for the -10 emp kit. It is AA6-063X
3/4 X 3/4 X 18. What does the "AA6" mean. I know that AA is aluminum
angle, but what is the "6". I'll try to find a piece locally before I have to
wait 2 weeks for another delivery from Vans. Meanwhile, would anybody that won't
need this piece for awhile be willing to let me have it and I'll replace
it when I get one from Vans???
Thanks,
Bill Britton
Message 10
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| Subject: | Alodine inside fuel tanks? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Hey all -
Here's a question... Are some of you out there alodining internal fuel
tank parts? I was under the impression that that was no good.
Thoughts?
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Alodine inside fuel tanks? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
I have been warned against it. The reason was that the Alodine will
eventually come off in the tanks. The only corrosion protection you need
is the Alclad and Proseal.
I was going to Alodine my tanks until I was beaten into submission by
this A&P/RV-8 builder.
-Jim 40384
Chris Johnston wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
>Hey all -
>Here's a question... Are some of you out there alodining internal fuel
>tank parts? I was under the impression that that was no good.
>Thoughts?
>
>cj
>#40410
>wings
>www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Photos Have Been Posted |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Rick:
Whose pre-oiler are you using?
TDT
40025
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 11:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Photos Have Been Posted
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
All,
As promised I took 31 photos last night and Jeremy was kind enough to
post them on his personal web site.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Anticipating questions:
1. The black box on the aft aux tray is a variable voltage divider
to provide 12 volts to the baggage lights.
2. The small baggage light was added later to light a "dark" spot.
Easily removed if I decide to do so.
3. Control Grip junction box - I bought the CH Products 5 button
grips for both pilot and copilot. All buttons, except PTT are common.
(By the way Kevin at CH Products is great to work with)
4. The defrost system uses the rear seat heat. Yes, rear seat
passengers go without heat when the defrosters are in use. I forgot to
take a picture of the top of the panel, but I have installed two
deflectors from a Piper Cherokee.
5. If you look closely at the external power close-up photo, you'll
notice the entire set up is removable from the rear, leaving only a hole
in the bulk head that the door sits in.
6. False floor - remember the heating issue in the center console?
I spoke with the pilot who posted that data. Jeremy and I considered
venting the center area, but couldn't find a good way to get the vented
air out of the plane. Instead, several layers of insulation have been
installed under the false floor. Hopefully this will do the job. I was
told the heat was caused by the cowling air exit being located directly
in the center of the fuselage. It is not an exhaust gas temperature
issue.
7. The insulation is wrapped with aluminum foil because if provides
better sound insulation for the higher frequencies.
8. Magnetometer installation is very very close to level and very
stable.
9. Pre-oil switch grounds the magnetos. First, let's not start
another discussion on the value of pre-oilers. You are entitled to your
opinion, bottom line - I am installing one. Here is the explanation for
grounding the mags. My starting sequence is as follows:
Pre-oiler switch on (mags grounded). Pre-oil is not
wired through the master switch.
Complete external pre-flight.
Turn on master switch. EFIS and aux fuel pump are
powered, no gyros or radios are powered. I don't like gyros spinning
just because the master switch is on.
Turn engine over 2/3 rotations with ignition to
distribute oil. Engine will not fire (mags grounded). I have no desire
to hand prop.
Prime engine.
Turn pre-oiler off.
Start engine.
Turn on avionics master.
10. If the area around the power board looks like a rat's nest
you're wrong. Even rats wouldn't live in a dump like that.
Finally, having a pre-oiler and not being able to use it in flights
doesn't make much sense. There will be a switch (under the panel with a
safety cover) that parallels only the pre-oiler power.
Hope this helps.
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Photos Have Been Posted |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
Oilamatic. Could have used an Automotive type.
Thank You
Rick Conti
The Boeing Company
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Thu Jan 12 14:42:11 2006
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Photos Have Been Posted
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Rick:
Whose pre-oiler are you using?
TDT
40025
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 11:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Photos Have Been Posted
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
All,
As promised I took 31 photos last night and Jeremy was kind enough to
post them on his personal web site.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Anticipating questions:
1. The black box on the aft aux tray is a variable voltage divider
to provide 12 volts to the baggage lights.
2. The small baggage light was added later to light a "dark" spot.
Easily removed if I decide to do so.
3. Control Grip junction box - I bought the CH Products 5 button
grips for both pilot and copilot. All buttons, except PTT are common.
(By the way Kevin at CH Products is great to work with)
4. The defrost system uses the rear seat heat. Yes, rear seat
passengers go without heat when the defrosters are in use. I forgot to
take a picture of the top of the panel, but I have installed two
deflectors from a Piper Cherokee.
5. If you look closely at the external power close-up photo, you'll
notice the entire set up is removable from the rear, leaving only a hole
in the bulk head that the door sits in.
6. False floor - remember the heating issue in the center console?
I spoke with the pilot who posted that data. Jeremy and I considered
venting the center area, but couldn't find a good way to get the vented
air out of the plane. Instead, several layers of insulation have been
installed under the false floor. Hopefully this will do the job. I was
told the heat was caused by the cowling air exit being located directly
in the center of the fuselage. It is not an exhaust gas temperature
issue.
7. The insulation is wrapped with aluminum foil because if provides
better sound insulation for the higher frequencies.
8. Magnetometer installation is very very close to level and very
stable.
9. Pre-oil switch grounds the magnetos. First, let's not start
another discussion on the value of pre-oilers. You are entitled to your
opinion, bottom line - I am installing one. Here is the explanation for
grounding the mags. My starting sequence is as follows:
Pre-oiler switch on (mags grounded). Pre-oil is not
wired through the master switch.
Complete external pre-flight.
Turn on master switch. EFIS and aux fuel pump are
powered, no gyros or radios are powered. I don't like gyros spinning
just because the master switch is on.
Turn engine over 2/3 rotations with ignition to
distribute oil. Engine will not fire (mags grounded). I have no desire
to hand prop.
Prime engine.
Turn pre-oiler off.
Start engine.
Turn on avionics master.
10. If the area around the power board looks like a rat's nest
you're wrong. Even rats wouldn't live in a dump like that.
Finally, having a pre-oiler and not being able to use it in flights
doesn't make much sense. There will be a switch (under the panel with a
safety cover) that parallels only the pre-oiler power.
Hope this helps.
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Photos Have Been Posted |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Rick,
Thanks for sharing the modifications.
I would like to see some additional photos of the console you fabricated
for below the panel and above the tunnel.
Larry Rosen
Message 15
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| Subject: | Fuel Senders, Gauges, Accuracy |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Hi all!
Hopefully someone can give me some answers to an issue an RV-8
builder informed me of. Specifically, his tank holds 22 Gallons, he uses
15 gallons before the fuel gauge reads half. Since I don't have a gauge,
and I am about to put the rear baffle on, I'd like to get half to be as
close to half as possible!
Questions:
1. Anyone already built; With 15 Gallons in your tank:
A) What is the resistance of your sending unit?
B) What does your gauge read (half, 3/4, 1/4?)?
2. Anyone that has a gauge and the sending unit:
A) What resistance makes the gauge read:
a) 1/4
b) 1/2
c) 3/4
d) Full
Many thanks for replies!
-Jim 40384
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Photos Have Been Posted |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
I'll be out of town for 10 days. Maybe Jermey can take some pictures tomorrow.
Thank You
Rick Conti
The Boeing Company
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Rosen
Sent: Thu Jan 12 14:56:28 2006
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Photos Have Been Posted
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Rick,
Thanks for sharing the modifications.
I would like to see some additional photos of the console you fabricated
for below the panel and above the tunnel.
Larry Rosen
Message 17
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| Subject: | Heating issue in center console |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>6. False floor - remember the heating issue in the center
> console? I spoke with the pilot who posted that data. Jeremy
> and I considered venting the center area, but couldn't find a
> good way to get the vented air out of the plane. Instead,
> several layers of insulation have been installed under the
> false floor. Hopefully this will do the job. I was told
> the heat was caused by the cowling air exit being located
> directly in the center of the fuselage. It is not an exhaust
> gas temperature issue.
Regarding Rick's item 6 (above), I'm having difficulty locating this
thread in the RV-10 list emails. Can anybody tell me the name of the
poster, and/or when the thread was discussed, or perhaps the title of
the thread?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 790 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Senders, Gauges, Accuracy |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
To any completed RV-10 owners
I would like to build a fuel tab Ala Cherokee. can
someone give me a dimension for 10 gallons down (20 in
the tank).
Thanks
Steve 40212 Tanks
--- James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein
> <n8vim@arrl.net>
>
> Hi all!
>
> Hopefully someone can give me some answers to an
> issue an RV-8
> builder informed me of. Specifically, his tank holds
> 22 Gallons, he uses
> 15 gallons before the fuel gauge reads half. Since I
> don't have a gauge,
> and I am about to put the rear baffle on, I'd like
> to get half to be as
> close to half as possible!
>
> Questions:
> 1. Anyone already built; With 15 Gallons in your
> tank:
> A) What is the resistance of your sending
> unit?
> B) What does your gauge read (half, 3/4,
> 1/4?)?
>
> 2. Anyone that has a gauge and the sending unit:
> A) What resistance makes the gauge read:
> a) 1/4
> b) 1/2
> c) 3/4
> d) Full
>
> Many thanks for replies!
> -Jim 40384
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | center console access |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Anyone addressed the problem of removal of the center tunnel access after
the seats are in place. As the design currently exists, removing the center
covers requires removing the front seats to inspect the center tunnel.
clearance for four fasteners is grossly insufficient as designed.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Heating issue in center console |
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Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Alodine inside fuel tanks? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
James -
For purposes of more clarification, I would be interested in hearing
about your beating (The A&P advise).
Alodine is a chemical conversion process and does not come off without
abrasion or chemical removal. Its purpose is to forestall or prevent
corrosion. Aircraft exterior skins which are chemically or physically
(bead blasted) paint stripped can still have the coating on years later.
I would be happy to provide pictures of its longevity. At our airline,
all tanks are alodined, primed, epoxy painted and prosealed. Jet A and
micro-organisms are a lot more intrusive than 100LL. Come to think of
it, I have never seen alodine peel off. Once corrosion begins it is
much like cancer. You have to remove it, covering does not work.
I think this is an OWT. Vans latest RVator in the spirit of "less,
cheaper and faster" addressed the ability to forgo the additional care
and attention to surface preparation. Alodine is not black magic, it
just takes more TLC than many builders are willing to invest in their
aircraft. It is an added investment which keeps on giving returns for
decades to come.
For Chris... I think alodine shows an additional measure of care and
consideration for the material longevity. Much like hangaring, cleaning
and non abusive use. Many are willing to pass up the added protection
in the pursuit of "Just Building it". It is all about flying sooner.
John - $00.02
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alodine inside fuel tanks?
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
I have been warned against it. The reason was that the Alodine will
eventually come off in the tanks. The only corrosion protection you need
is the Alclad and Proseal.
I was going to Alodine my tanks until I was beaten into submission by
this A&P/RV-8 builder.
-Jim 40384
Chris Johnston wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston"
<CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
>Hey all -
>Here's a question... Are some of you out there alodining internal fuel
>tank parts? I was under the impression that that was no good.
>Thoughts?
>
>cj
>#40410
>wings
>www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Alodine inside fuel tanks? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
It had to do with the avgas slowly eating away, or chemically stripping,
the alodine from the inside of the tank. Since I had not seen, nor could
find any reference, any recommendation to alodine fuel tanks, I decided
its better not to. Again, it was explained to me that it takes a few
years, but it would happen.
On the other hand, I have been alodining and priming with PPG DP50LF
primer *everything*, up until the fuel tanks. If they corrode to
nothing, at least they're replaceable!
If you have datasheets, or references to using alodine inside fuel
tanks, I'd love to see it.
Thanks!
-Jim
John W. Cox wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>
>James -
>For purposes of more clarification, I would be interested in hearing
>about your beating (The A&P advise).
>
>Alodine is a chemical conversion process and does not come off without
>abrasion or chemical removal. Its purpose is to forestall or prevent
>corrosion. Aircraft exterior skins which are chemically or physically
>(bead blasted) paint stripped can still have the coating on years later.
>I would be happy to provide pictures of its longevity. At our airline,
>all tanks are alodined, primed, epoxy painted and prosealed. Jet A and
>micro-organisms are a lot more intrusive than 100LL. Come to think of
>it, I have never seen alodine peel off. Once corrosion begins it is
>much like cancer. You have to remove it, covering does not work.
>
>I think this is an OWT. Vans latest RVator in the spirit of "less,
>cheaper and faster" addressed the ability to forgo the additional care
>and attention to surface preparation. Alodine is not black magic, it
>just takes more TLC than many builders are willing to invest in their
>aircraft. It is an added investment which keeps on giving returns for
>decades to come.
>
>For Chris... I think alodine shows an additional measure of care and
>consideration for the material longevity. Much like hangaring, cleaning
>and non abusive use. Many are willing to pass up the added protection
>in the pursuit of "Just Building it". It is all about flying sooner.
>
>John - $00.02
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
>Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 12:40 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alodine inside fuel tanks?
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>
>I have been warned against it. The reason was that the Alodine will
>eventually come off in the tanks. The only corrosion protection you need
>
>is the Alclad and Proseal.
>
>I was going to Alodine my tanks until I was beaten into submission by
>this A&P/RV-8 builder.
>
>-Jim 40384
>
>Chris Johnston wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston"
>>
>>
><CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
>
>>Hey all -
>>Here's a question... Are some of you out there alodining internal fuel
>>tank parts? I was under the impression that that was no good.
>>Thoughts?
>>
>>cj
>>#40410
>>wings
>>www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Heating issue in center console |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Tim,
The thread is on VansAirForce Forums in the RV-10 section titled "Hot
Tunnels"
This link should work
<http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=4187>
Larry Rosen
Tim Lewis wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>
> >6. False floor - remember the heating issue in the center
> > console? I spoke with the pilot who posted that data. Jeremy
> > and I considered venting the center area, but couldn't find a
> > good way to get the vented air out of the plane. Instead,
> > several layers of insulation have been installed under the
> > false floor. Hopefully this will do the job. I was told
> > the heat was caused by the cowling air exit being located
> > directly in the center of the fuselage. It is not an exhaust
> > gas temperature issue.
>
> Regarding Rick's item 6 (above), I'm having difficulty locating this
> thread in the RV-10 list emails. Can anybody tell me the name of the
> poster, and/or when the thread was discussed, or perhaps the title of
> the thread?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Lewis
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Alodine inside fuel tanks? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I gotta believe John Cox on this one. I've owned a plane
that had alodined tanks inside. They stay corrosion free
easily that way. Your A&P is probably confusing Alodining
with some sort of primer or tank sealer. There are many
things that people have done over the years inside tanks
and most things have ended up bad eventually, from bladders,
to coatings. Alodine is just a surface conversion. Sure,
if you scrub it hard and haven't rinsed it well, you'll
get some brown stuff to come off, but that's no worse
than any future corrosion would give off. And it's not
like it will ever come off as a flake. I doubt there's
any chance it could even plug a filter...it would just
flow through the engine and be burned with the fuel.
I alodined the inside of my tanks, but that's not saying
that anyone else should. I was just willing to take the
extra steps for long life.
Also, John isn't just a casual reference when it comes
to things related to aviation and inspection. For those
that know him, he's definitel got the credentials when it
comes to this sort of info. He's a great guy to get
to know when you have those uncommon questions.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
James Hein wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>
> It had to do with the avgas slowly eating away, or chemically stripping,
> the alodine from the inside of the tank. Since I had not seen, nor could
> find any reference, any recommendation to alodine fuel tanks, I decided
> its better not to. Again, it was explained to me that it takes a few
> years, but it would happen.
>
> On the other hand, I have been alodining and priming with PPG DP50LF
> primer *everything*, up until the fuel tanks. If they corrode to
> nothing, at least they're replaceable!
>
> If you have datasheets, or references to using alodine inside fuel
> tanks, I'd love to see it.
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Jim
>
> John W. Cox wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>>
>> James - For purposes of more clarification, I would be interested in
>> hearing
>> about your beating (The A&P advise).
>>
>> Alodine is a chemical conversion process and does not come off without
>> abrasion or chemical removal. Its purpose is to forestall or prevent
>> corrosion. Aircraft exterior skins which are chemically or physically
>> (bead blasted) paint stripped can still have the coating on years later.
>> I would be happy to provide pictures of its longevity. At our airline,
>> all tanks are alodined, primed, epoxy painted and prosealed. Jet A and
>> micro-organisms are a lot more intrusive than 100LL. Come to think of
>> it, I have never seen alodine peel off. Once corrosion begins it is
>> much like cancer. You have to remove it, covering does not work.
>>
>> I think this is an OWT. Vans latest RVator in the spirit of "less,
>> cheaper and faster" addressed the ability to forgo the additional care
>> and attention to surface preparation. Alodine is not black magic, it
>> just takes more TLC than many builders are willing to invest in their
>> aircraft. It is an added investment which keeps on giving returns for
>> decades to come.
>>
>> For Chris... I think alodine shows an additional measure of care and
>> consideration for the material longevity. Much like hangaring, cleaning
>> and non abusive use. Many are willing to pass up the added protection
>> in the pursuit of "Just Building it". It is all about flying sooner.
>>
>> John - $00.02
>> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
>> Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 12:40 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alodine inside fuel tanks?
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>>
>> I have been warned against it. The reason was that the Alodine will
>> eventually come off in the tanks. The only corrosion protection you need
>>
>> is the Alclad and Proseal.
>>
>> I was going to Alodine my tanks until I was beaten into submission by
>> this A&P/RV-8 builder.
>>
>> -Jim 40384
>>
>> Chris Johnston wrote:
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>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston"
>>>
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>> <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>>
>>
>>> Hey all - Here's a question... Are some of you out there alodining
>>> internal fuel
>>> tank parts? I was under the impression that that was no good.
>>> Thoughts?
>>>
>>> cj
>>> #40410
>>> wings
>>> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>>>
>>>
>>>
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> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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Message 25
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| Subject: | This is a test with the List MIME turned off. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Matt Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com>
Roxy RT [tmp] ==> cat sailplane.msg.before | formail -c -I ""
Testing, 1 2 3.
Message 26
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| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Cleary" <johncleary@mangertonnsw.com>
Rick,
Very helpful pictures.
Thank you for taking the trouble,
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Friday, 13 January 2006 3:41 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
I have one. See Jeremy's web site for pictures.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Very import, if you order one, ask for the variant that has been rotated
90 degrees. They'll know what you mean. I asked and they modified the
unit for the 10. Notice in the pictures the connectors face aft, veeery
nice.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: John Cleary [mailto:johncleary@mangertonnsw.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 5:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Cleary"
<johncleary@mangertonnsw.com>
Rick,
Are you planning to use one of the Blue Mountains EFIS?
I agree wholeheartedly with you on the 24 volt explanation in 'Wiring
for
Smart People'. For anybody who hasn't read it, it is downloadable free
from
the Blue Mountains web site at the following link.
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/download.php#appnotes
John Cleary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Thursday, 12 January 2006 5:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
incorrectly.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym@aviating.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
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