Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:31 AM - Re: Alodine inside fuel tanks? (RAS)
2. 07:10 AM - Rudder Pedal Positon (Larry Rosen)
3. 07:25 AM - Re: Rudder Pedal Positon (Conti, Rick)
4. 05:58 PM - Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket (Richard Sipp)
5. 07:43 PM - Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket (zackrv8)
6. 08:43 PM - Re: Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket (Scott Lewis)
7. 09:00 PM - Riveting the elevator trim reinforcement plate. (John Gonzalez)
8. 09:39 PM - Re: Riveting the elevator trim reinforcement plate. (Scott Lewis)
9. 09:59 PM - Posted 9 Jan 06 (Robert G. Wright)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Alodine inside fuel tanks? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
Hi All,
Linn, you are correct on the assesment of alodine. The only reason not to
alodine the inside of the tank is to aid adhesion of proseal. Any sealant
tends to come of easier when the surface has been alodined, including the
aerodynamic sealants used on the airliners on the skin joints.
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alodine inside fuel tanks?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Alodine is a conversion coating .... not a paint! It doesn't come off or
> flake of unless something scrapes through it. Paint primers like zinc
> chromate, however, would be a no-no. Just MHO, of course.
> Linn
> do not archive
> James Hein wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>>
>> I have been warned against it. The reason was that the Alodine will
>> eventually come off in the tanks. The only corrosion protection you need
>> is the Alclad and Proseal.
>>
>> I was going to Alodine my tanks until I was beaten into submission by
>> this A&P/RV-8 builder.
>>
>> -Jim 40384
>>
>> Chris Johnston wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston"
>>> <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>>>
>>> Hey all - Here's a question... Are some of you out there alodining
>>> internal fuel
>>> tank parts? I was under the impression that that was no good.
>>> Thoughts?
>>>
>>> cj
>>> #40410
>>> wings
>>> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>>>
>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
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>
>
> --
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Positon |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I am working on the rudder pedal installation. It seems that there is
an option for the mounting position of the pedals. The bearing block
could be mounted to the longeron in two different positions. I am 5'-9"
and I think that the forward position would be the appropriate choice.
What do you all think?
Would it be prudent to drill the center bearing block for both positions
so the pedals could be moved easier in the future?
Larry Rosen
40356
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Positon |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
I'm 5 8 and moved the peddals aft.
Thank You
Rick Conti
The Boeing Company
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Rosen
Sent: Sat Jan 14 07:06:39 2006
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Positon
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I am working on the rudder pedal installation. It seems that there is
an option for the mounting position of the pedals. The bearing block
could be mounted to the longeron in two different positions. I am 5'-9"
and I think that the forward position would be the appropriate choice.
What do you all think?
Would it be prudent to drill the center bearing block for both positions
so the pedals could be moved easier in the future?
Larry Rosen
40356
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket |
Zack:
Please re-post Dave's contact info for ordering.
Thanks
Dick Sipp
40065
do not achieve
----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Czachorowski
To: RV10-List@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 10:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket
Guys,
Dave made up some anchor brackets out of 6061 aluminum billet. He copied
the exact angle of Vans W-415 weldment (you know the part with the "tack welded"
nut). Well, I installed the new aluminum bracket onto the elevator yesterday
and it wouldn't fit real nice. Let me explain....The new bracket was drilled
exactly where Vans says to put his w-415. After installing the trim tab cable
to the trim tab and routing the cable thru the forward elevator spar, the
trim tab access cover would not nest in its recess in the elevator without undue
force. The angle of the bracket (25 degrees) made the cable bind when going
thru the forward spar of the elevator.
I doubled checked this with Vans W-415 part. Same thing. Did anyone else
have this problem? Anyway, Dave came out, measured the proper nut angle (15
degrees), and made a new bracket. After installing the new bracket I am happy
to say there is no more binding, thru the full range of motion of the cable,
while it is attached to the trim tab. This thing fits perfect.
Btw, I called Vans and talked to Gus about this. Gus's answer was to re-weld
the nut at the proper angle. I told him I would have someone make up a aluminum
bracket from billet. He said that would be best.
Anyway, I caught this in time and Dave will send out all the brackets to those
who already ordered from Dave, with this new 15 degree nut angle. He just
has to make up new ones.
Zack
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
Contact Dave at 302-437-6087. He made up a bunch of Trim Tab Cable Anchor Brackets
with the new 15 degree angle. Again, this bracket is CNC milled from 6061
billet. Dave said it is 3 times stronger than Vans' part.
Zack
[quote="Dick Sipp"]Zack:
?
Please re-post Dave's contact info for ordering.
?
Thanks
?
Dick Sipp
40065
do not achieve
> ---
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4058#4058
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Scott Lewis <rv10@tpg.com.au>
G'day,
Any ordering options for those of us in other countries?
Thanks,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172
Adelaide, South Australia
zackrv8 wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
>
> Contact Dave at 302-437-6087. He made up a bunch of Trim Tab Cable Anchor Brackets
with the new 15 degree angle. Again, this bracket is CNC milled from 6061
billet. Dave said it is 3 times stronger than Vans' part.
>
> Zack
>
>
>
>
> [quote="Dick Sipp"]Zack:
> ?
> Please re-post Dave's contact info for ordering.
> ?
> Thanks
> ?
> Dick Sipp
> 40065
> do not achieve
Message 7
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| Subject: | Riveting the elevator trim reinforcement plate. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
I have a silly question. I started to back rivet the elevator reinforcement
plate to the skins and did two rivets with the size called out in the plans
and both rivets bent over. They appear too long. I did the math with the
two skins adding to 0.048" and the rivets being a 3/32 diameter. By this
calculation I need a rivet of 3.1 sixteenths in length. The plans call for
a 3-3.5. I shot a 3-3 and it was straight but border line on shop head
length.
Back riveting is supposed to be a no brainer, but why did two of them bend
over and on the second one, I really concentrated. Did anyone have this
problem?
JOhn G. 40409
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting the elevator trim reinforcement plate. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Scott Lewis <rv10@tpg.com.au>
G'day,
John Gonzalez wrote:
> Back riveting is supposed to be a no brainer, but why did two of them
> bend over and on the second one, I really concentrated. Did anyone
> have this problem?
Not necessarily a no-brainer. I have certainly found that rivets can
still be bent over.
A trick I use was one shown to me at my initial RV Workshop to ensure
that you are back-riveting straight down on the rivet. If you have the
set angled to the side you can very easily bend over a slightly long
rivet. Link below:
http://www.bravo.net.au/~samrv6/tech%20topics.html
Have fun,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172
Adelaide, South Australia
Message 9
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VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC.
14401 NE Keil Road, Aurora, Oregon, USA 97002
PHONE 503-678-6545 * FAX 503-678-6560 * www.vansaircraft.com *
info@vansaircraft.com
Service letter: January 9, 2006
Subject: Main Gear Axle Nuts
Affected Models: ONLY RV-10 main gear axle nuts
It has come the attention of Van's Aircraft that some of the main gear axle
nuts
supplied in finish kits for the RV-10 since November of 2005 have threads
that
are not cut deep enough to allow for their use.
* If you have axle nuts that will not readily screw onto the main gear
axles,
please contact Van's Aircraft for replacement units.
Rob
#392
Deburring Tailcone (any hints in this step?)
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