Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:06 AM - Re: Riveting the elevator trim reinforcement plate. (Albert Gardner)
2. 03:44 AM - Re: Rudder Pedal Positon (Wayne Edgerton)
3. 05:30 AM - Re: Posted 9 Jan 06 Subject: Main Gear Axle Nuts (Byron Gillespie)
4. 07:41 AM - Re: 24V Lessons (Dan Masys)
5. 09:10 AM - Re: BBS threads Rock !!!! (SteveD)
6. 12:36 PM - Re: Posted 9 Jan 06 (Darton Steve)
7. 12:42 PM - Re: 24V Lessons (Carl Froehlich)
8. 12:47 PM - Re: Posted 9 Jan 06 (Jeff Dalton)
9. 12:53 PM - Tail kit is here!!!! (Jeff Dalton)
10. 01:25 PM - Lap Joint Top Wing Skins (Jeff Carpenter)
11. 01:33 PM - Re: Posted 9 Jan 06 (Darton Steve)
12. 02:06 PM - Re: Lap Joint Top Wing Skins (Darton Steve)
13. 02:30 PM - Re: Lap Joint Top Wing Skins (John Hasbrouck)
14. 05:12 PM - Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket (zackrv8)
15. 06:40 PM - Re: Lap Joint Top Wing Skins (Deems Davis)
16. 07:09 PM - Re: Tail kit is here!!!! (Sean Blair)
17. 07:28 PM - Re: Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket (Bill and Tami Britton)
18. 09:43 PM - REtry: Cogsdills/tailcone (Robert G. Wright)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Riveting the elevator trim reinforcement plate. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@adelphia.net>
I think you should consider a set of rivet gages: one to ensure correct
length and the others to make sure the shop head is formed properly. Van's
does a good job of properly calling out rivet sizes in the plans but you
should be prepared to verify/change the size if necessary.
Albert Gardner
40422
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting the elevator trim reinforcement plate.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Back riveting is supposed to be a no brainer, but why did two of them bend
over and on the second one, I really concentrated. Did anyone have this
problem?
JOhn G. 40409
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Positon |
I drilled both positions on mine. Who knows I may get taller.
Wayne Edgerton
40336
Message 3
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| Subject: | Posted 9 Jan 06 Subject: Main Gear Axle Nuts |
I received the finishing kit at the end of December. The nuts won't
thread on but one turn or so. Contacted Van's and they want them
returned and they will re-machine them - deeper threads. Mine went back
yesterday.
Byron #40253 - playing with the doors.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 12:59 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Posted 9 Jan 06
VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC.
14401 NE Keil Road, Aurora, Oregon, USA 97002
PHONE 503-678-6545 * FAX 503-678-6560 * www.vansaircraft.com *
info@vansaircraft.com
Service letter: January 9, 2006
Subject: Main Gear Axle Nuts
Affected Models: ONLY RV-10 main gear axle nuts
It has come the attention of Van's Aircraft that some of the main gear
axle nuts
supplied in finish kits for the RV-10 since November of 2005 have
threads that
are not cut deep enough to allow for their use.
* If you have axle nuts that will not readily screw onto the main gear
axles,
please contact Van's Aircraft for replacement units.
Rob
#392
Deburring Tailcone (any hints in this step?)
Message 4
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
> From: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
> Date: 2006/01/13 Fri AM 07:34:42 EST
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: 24V Lessons
>
...long list of 24v issues deleted.
> About my only concern remaining would be getting stuck
> at some small airport somewhere that there isn't a 24V
>external power supply to jump the aircraft.
Like many builders, I am thinking about the advantages and disadvantages of 24v.
I can say, however, that in two years of flying my RV-7A I have inadvertently
run the battery down completely three times (by leaving a switch on overnight
twice, and an external GPS plugged into the accessory outlet for days the other
time). Of these, two times it was at a small airport where there was no
24v power available. I got a jump from a little tractor being used to tow airplanes
in one case, and a charge from a borrowed 12v car battery charger in the
other.
This will probably be the deciding factor for me. Having lived and learned, and
depended upon the kindness of strangers when traveling cross county, I'm pretty
strongly incentivized to go with 12 volts.
-Dan Masys
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: BBS threads Rock !!!! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "SteveD" <Post2Forum@comcast.net>
Tim(at)MyRV10.com wrote:
> If you prefer the email format it gives you nothing.
Not necessarily so:
1) You can easily post Photos, pdf, docs, etc.
Just click "Add an Attachment" below and your file is linked in the email.
2) People like me can look through all the other lists and pick up good tips and
tricks, that I wouldn't normally get from my one little group of builders, without
subscribing to all the lists.
Being dyslexic that photo thing is worth it's weight in gold... :)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4153#4153
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Posted 9 Jan 06 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Rob,
Try a Cogsdill burraway. You can find them
consistently on E-bay. Be forewarned you may have to
tinker with the adjustment especially with the #40.
However once it is set I rarely need to readjust (only
if I have changed to deburring a different thickness
of material).
Some people really like them and others do not. I
personally would consider this an essential tool
because it cuts the deburring time by 2/3. Most of the
used tools you find on E-bay are surplus from Boeing.
here is an example of such an item:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aircraft-tool-Cogsdill-Burraway-Hole-Deburr-Tool_W0QQitemZ7580217685QQcategoryZ109559QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I do not know this lister and cannot give any
recomendation other than you will use the two smallest
sizes frequently and the next two sizes occaisionally.
Steve 40212 wings
--- "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
wrote:
> VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC.
>
> 14401 NE Keil Road, Aurora, Oregon, USA 97002
>
> PHONE 503-678-6545 * FAX 503-678-6560 *
> www.vansaircraft.com *
> info@vansaircraft.com
>
> Service letter: January 9, 2006
>
> Subject: Main Gear Axle Nuts
>
> Affected Models: ONLY RV-10 main gear axle nuts
>
> It has come the attention of Van's Aircraft that
> some of the main gear axle
> nuts
>
> supplied in finish kits for the RV-10 since November
> of 2005 have threads
> that
>
> are not cut deep enough to allow for their use.
>
> * If you have axle nuts that will not readily screw
> onto the main gear
> axles,
>
> please contact Van's Aircraft for replacement units.
>
>
>
> Rob
>
> #392
>
> Deburring Tailcone (any hints in this step?)
>
>
Message 7
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@cox.net>
The other aspect is finding a replacement alternator when you are stuck
someplace. A standard Nippon Densu 60 amp alternator is $80 at any auto
parts store.
Carl Froehlich
RV-10 (empennage)
RV-8A (230 hrs)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 24V Lessons
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
> From: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
> Date: 2006/01/13 Fri AM 07:34:42 EST
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: 24V Lessons
>
...long list of 24v issues deleted.
> About my only concern remaining would be getting stuck
> at some small airport somewhere that there isn't a 24V
>external power supply to jump the aircraft.
Like many builders, I am thinking about the advantages and disadvantages of
24v. I can say, however, that in two years of flying my RV-7A I have
inadvertently run the battery down completely three times (by leaving a
switch on overnight twice, and an external GPS plugged into the accessory
outlet for days the other time). Of these, two times it was at a small
airport where there was no 24v power available. I got a jump from a little
tractor being used to tow airplanes in one case, and a charge from a
borrowed 12v car battery charger in the other.
This will probably be the deciding factor for me. Having lived and learned,
and depended upon the kindness of strangers when traveling cross county, I'm
pretty strongly incentivized to go with 12 volts.
-Dan Masys
Message 8
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|
| Subject: | Re: Posted 9 Jan 06 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77@comcast.net>
I found a set on eBay for $20. Have not tried them yet.
TAIL KIT IS AT THE SHIPPING DEPOT!!!! Unfortunately, they're closed until
Tuesday
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Posted 9 Jan 06
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
>
> Rob,
>
> Try a Cogsdill burraway. You can find them
> consistently on E-bay. Be forewarned you may have to
> tinker with the adjustment especially with the #40.
> However once it is set I rarely need to readjust (only
> if I have changed to deburring a different thickness
> of material).
>
> Some people really like them and others do not. I
> personally would consider this an essential tool
> because it cuts the deburring time by 2/3. Most of the
> used tools you find on E-bay are surplus from Boeing.
> here is an example of such an item:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aircraft-tool-Cogsdill-Burraway-Hole-Deburr-Tool_W0QQitemZ7580217685QQcategoryZ109559QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> I do not know this lister and cannot give any
> recomendation other than you will use the two smallest
> sizes frequently and the next two sizes occaisionally.
>
> Steve 40212 wings
>
> --- "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
> wrote:
>
>> VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC.
>>
>> 14401 NE Keil Road, Aurora, Oregon, USA 97002
>>
>> PHONE 503-678-6545 * FAX 503-678-6560 *
>> www.vansaircraft.com *
>> info@vansaircraft.com
>>
>> Service letter: January 9, 2006
>>
>> Subject: Main Gear Axle Nuts
>>
>> Affected Models: ONLY RV-10 main gear axle nuts
>>
>> It has come the attention of Van's Aircraft that
>> some of the main gear axle
>> nuts
>>
>> supplied in finish kits for the RV-10 since November
>> of 2005 have threads
>> that
>>
>> are not cut deep enough to allow for their use.
>>
>> * If you have axle nuts that will not readily screw
>> onto the main gear
>> axles,
>>
>> please contact Van's Aircraft for replacement units.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rob
>>
>> #392
>>
>> Deburring Tailcone (any hints in this step?)
>>
>>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
Message 9
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|
| Subject: | Tail kit is here!!!! |
Well, after reading for a year, gathering tools, and building a new shop, I have
ordered my tail kit and it's at the ABF Freight Depot one mile from my house.
Unfortunately it came on Saturday and they are closed until Tuesday due to
the MKL Holiday here in Michigan.
Shipping time to MI was 5 days and the shipping cost was $265.
I'll be putting up a website with photos of my new shop, storage system, and the
first building photos soon.
Any recommendations for how to approach the web site? There are some awesome sites
out there!
Jeff Dalton
(starting tail)
40544
"It is not the critic who counts: Not the man who points out how the strong man
stumbles or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit
belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust
and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly, who errs and comes up short again
and again ... who spends himself in a worthy cause; who, at the best, knows, in
the end, the triumph of high achievement, and who at worst, if he fails, at
least he fails while daring greatly."
Pres. Teddy Roosevelt
Message 10
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| Subject: | Lap Joint Top Wing Skins |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
The plans state that we can remove material from the inboard and
outboard top wing skins where they overlap in order to make a more
aesthetically pleasing joint. I'm concerned about ruining an
otherwise great pair of skins attempting to do this. Can anyone
discuss in detail why you chose to do this... or not to do this...
and how it went if you did?
Thanks,
Jeff Carpenter
40304
... about to skin me some wings
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Posted 9 Jan 06 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Jeff,
Many people have complained that the #40 cuts too
aggressively. Be sure to adjust the tension spring so
there is just enough pressure to return the blade
after you depress it with your finger. Second, use a
cordless drill so it is not turning too fast. Watch it
turn 1 1/2 to 2 revolutions on the top side and then
spend the same amount of time on the back side, you
will get the "rhythm". Test it, practice and adjust it
on some scrap material.
Good luck
Steve 40210
--- Jeff Dalton <jdalton77@comcast.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jeff Dalton"
> <jdalton77@comcast.net>
>
> I found a set on eBay for $20. Have not tried them
> yet.
>
> TAIL KIT IS AT THE SHIPPING DEPOT!!!!
> Unfortunately, they're closed until
> Tuesday
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 3:35 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Posted 9 Jan 06
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve
> <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Rob,
> >
> > Try a Cogsdill burraway. You can find them
> > consistently on E-bay. Be forewarned you may have
> to
> > tinker with the adjustment especially with the
> #40.
> > However once it is set I rarely need to readjust
> (only
> > if I have changed to deburring a different
> thickness
> > of material).
> >
> > Some people really like them and others do not. I
> > personally would consider this an essential tool
> > because it cuts the deburring time by 2/3. Most of
> the
> > used tools you find on E-bay are surplus from
> Boeing.
> > here is an example of such an item:
> >
> >
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/aircraft-tool-Cogsdill-Burraway-Hole-Deburr-Tool_W0QQitemZ7580217685QQcategoryZ109559QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> >
> > I do not know this lister and cannot give any
> > recomendation other than you will use the two
> smallest
> > sizes frequently and the next two sizes
> occaisionally.
> >
> > Steve 40212 wings
> >
> > --- "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC.
> >>
> >> 14401 NE Keil Road, Aurora, Oregon, USA 97002
> >>
> >> PHONE 503-678-6545 * FAX 503-678-6560 *
> >> www.vansaircraft.com *
> >> info@vansaircraft.com
> >>
> >> Service letter: January 9, 2006
> >>
> >> Subject: Main Gear Axle Nuts
> >>
> >> Affected Models: ONLY RV-10 main gear axle nuts
> >>
> >> It has come the attention of Van's Aircraft that
> >> some of the main gear axle
> >> nuts
> >>
> >> supplied in finish kits for the RV-10 since
> November
> >> of 2005 have threads
> >> that
> >>
> >> are not cut deep enough to allow for their use.
> >>
> >> * If you have axle nuts that will not readily
> screw
> >> onto the main gear
> >> axles,
> >>
> >> please contact Van's Aircraft for replacement
> units.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Rob
> >>
> >> #392
> >>
> >> Deburring Tailcone (any hints in this step?)
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> protection around
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Lap Joint Top Wing Skins |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Jeff,
What I did was mark the overlap with a marker while
the skins are mounted together for match drilling on
the wing assembly (I still had the plastic on). Then I
cut off the plastic +1/8" as a guide with the
soldering iron, on the side that gets beveled only to
avoid confusion (leaving the plastic on the opposite
side). Then clamp a 1x8" pine board (with a sharp
edge) exactly under the edge of the wing skin (to
support it while sanding) and clamp the whole thing to
your bench so it doesn't move around. Then I used an
electric orbital Sander with 80 grit alum oxide paper,
hold the sander at a slight and consistent angle and
make a pass the full width of the skin and back. Hold
the edge of the sander along the edge of the plastic
and sand from that point to the edge. Always go the
full width so that a consistent amount is removed at
each point along the width. If I remember it took 10
or 20 minutes per skin. It doesn't go too fast and you
can see the (slow) progress quite easily.
Steve 40212
--- Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter
> <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
> The plans state that we can remove material from the
> inboard and
> outboard top wing skins where they overlap in order
> to make a more
> aesthetically pleasing joint. I'm concerned about
> ruining an
> otherwise great pair of skins attempting to do this.
> Can anyone
> discuss in detail why you chose to do this... or not
> to do this...
> and how it went if you did?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> ... about to skin me some wings
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Lap Joint Top Wing Skins |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Jeff,
I did remove some material from the overlap but was'nt too aggressive.
Masked off the areas of the overlap and went at it. I used a combination of
files and Scotchbrite wheels. I did bend the outboard skin edge slightly
and ended up with a good result. Make sure to alodine or prime the area
since all the alclad will be stripped away. I probably thinned the inboard
skin a bit more than the outboard since it's thicker to start with. That
being said, I was even less aggressive on the bottom skins, slight working
with the Scotchbrite and a bend in the outboard edge, and they looked pretty
good also. Be careful how much you work the aluminum 'cause you will
stretch it a bit, particularly with the Scotchbrite wheels.
None of this is required of course, it's only for esthetics, and body
filler and high fill primer will give you a good final result when its
painted if you want the joint very smooth. I wouldn't get too crazy about
it.....john
John Hasbrouck
#40264 wings closed!
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
Scott,
G'Day mate! Dave is working on PayPal. Hopefully, he'll have it up on his web site soon. www.rivethead-aero.com
I enclosed a picture of the bracket riveted onto the trim tab cover plate.
Zack
[quote="rv10(at)tpg.com.au"]G'day,
Any ordering options for those of us in other countries?
Thanks,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172
Adelaide, South Australia
zackrv8 wrote:
>
>
> Contact Dave at 302-437-6087. He made up a bunch of Trim Tab Cable Anchor Brackets
with the new 15 degree angle. Again, this bracket is CNC milled from
6061 billet. Dave said it is 3 times stronger than Vans' part.
>
> Zack
>
>
>
>
>
> Dick Sipp wrote:
> > Zack:
> > ?
> > Please re-post Dave's contact info for ordering.
> > ?
> > Thanks
> > ?
> > Dick Sipp
> > 40065
> > do not achieve
> >
> >
>
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4259#4259
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03924_213.jpg
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Lap Joint Top Wing Skins |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I used the tip from Tim Olsen's web site, and used an orbital sander. It
took a while, which is probably a good thing, to get the taper, I did
both the inboard and the outboard edges at the same time so as to be
able to cleco them togehter for test fits. (the 1st and 2nd fits were
not thin enough). Another Builder, Bill Curtis, ordered fresh .032
alclad and then copied the holes from Van's parts to make a single
seamless top skin.
Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
> The plans state that we can remove material from the inboard and
> outboard top wing skins where they overlap in order to make a more
> aesthetically pleasing joint. I'm concerned about ruining an
> otherwise great pair of skins attempting to do this. Can anyone
> discuss in detail why you chose to do this... or not to do this...
> and how it went if you did?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> ... about to skin me some wings
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Tail kit is here!!!! |
Jeff,
Welcome to the club!!! I've been using ExperCraft for my website. It's
very easy to use and seems to cover all the bases.
Check it out if you like: http://websites.expercraft.com/seanb
Good luck and have fun.
Sean Blair
#40225
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dalton
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 1:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tail kit is here!!!!
Well, after reading for a year, gathering tools, and building a new shop, I
have ordered my tail kit and it's at the ABF Freight Depot one mile from my
house. Unfortunately it came on Saturday and they are closed until Tuesday
due to the MKL Holiday here in Michigan.
Shipping time to MI was 5 days and the shipping cost was $265.
I'll be putting up a website with photos of my new shop, storage system, and
the first building photos soon.
Any recommendations for how to approach the web site? There are some
awesome sites out there!
Jeff Dalton
(starting tail)
40544
"It is not the critic who counts: Not the man who points out how the strong
man stumbles or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The
credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred
by dust and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly, who errs and comes up
short again and again ... who spends himself in a worthy cause; who, at the
best, knows, in the end, the triumph of high achievement, and who at worst,
if he fails, at least he fails while daring greatly."
Pres. Teddy Roosevelt
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
Zack, will we need to order new cover plates if we've already got holes
drilled for the stock pieces???
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 9:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
>
> Contact Dave at 302-437-6087. He made up a bunch of Trim Tab Cable Anchor
> Brackets with the new 15 degree angle. Again, this bracket is CNC milled
> from 6061 billet. Dave said it is 3 times stronger than Vans' part.
>
> Zack
>
>
> [quote="Dick Sipp"]Zack:
> ?
> Please re-post Dave's contact info for ordering.
> ?
> Thanks
> ?
> Dick Sipp
> 40065
> do not achieve
>
>> ---
>
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4058#4058
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | REtry: Cogsdills/tailcone |
Thanks for the replies. Yes, I'm using the cogsdills and I readjust my #40
almost every time I get to a deburring step. I think that as long as you
don't "get used" to the tension and continually adjust it, you'll do fine.
I do, however, use it at a faster rate than I believe most do; I just try to
keep the contact time down as I insert and remove the tool through the hole.
After reading my original post I guess I wasn't general enough. I was
actually asking for tips for the rest of the tailcone build past the
deburring stage. I'll hopefully get my static air kit ordered from safeair
tomorrow (Monday) if they're open. Will I need more than the supplied
connectors/tee fittings for my single AHRS GRT/480/backup airspeed/Trutrack
DFC planned installation?
Rob
#392
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darton Steve
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 3:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Posted 9 Jan 06
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Jeff,
Many people have complained that the #40 cuts too
aggressively. Be sure to adjust the tension spring so
there is just enough pressure to return the blade
after you depress it with your finger. Second, use a
cordless drill so it is not turning too fast. Watch it
turn 1 1/2 to 2 revolutions on the top side and then
spend the same amount of time on the back side, you
will get the "rhythm". Test it, practice and adjust it
on some scrap material.
> >>
> >> Rob
> >>
> >> #392
> >>
> >> Deburring Tailcone (any hints in this step?)
> >>
>
>
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