Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:26 AM - Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock (TimRvator@comcast.net (Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu))
2. 06:13 AM - Re: Putting on the top question (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
3. 06:29 AM - Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock (David McNeill)
4. 06:45 AM - The ultimate door latch (Tim Olson)
5. 07:17 AM - Re: The ultimate door latch (Bill and Tami Britton)
6. 07:53 AM - Re: The ultimate door latch (Bobby J. Hughes)
7. 08:25 AM - Re: The ultimate door latch (Rick)
8. 08:26 AM - Re: The ultimate door latch (Tim Olson)
9. 09:04 AM - Re: The ultimate door latch (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
10. 09:54 AM - ECI Titan Cylinders Not Affected (Tim Olson)
11. 11:17 AM - Re: Inexpensive Cabin Door Lock (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
12. 03:29 PM - Re: The ultimate door latch (William)
13. 04:22 PM - Cabin Doors (Paul Walter)
14. 05:47 PM - Re: Re: The ultimate door latch (David McNeill)
15. 06:23 PM - Stainless steel (Sean Blair)
16. 06:31 PM - terminal strips (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
17. 07:02 PM - Re: terminal strips (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
18. 07:37 PM - Re: Windows (Sam Marlow)
19. 07:40 PM - Re: Windows (Sam Marlow)
20. 08:46 PM - Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock (ddddsp1@juno.com)
21. 09:27 PM - Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock (ddddsp1@juno.com)
22. 10:09 PM - Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock (Sean Stephens)
23. 10:09 PM - Proseal (Bill and Tami Britton)
24. 10:42 PM - Re: Proseal (Deems Davis)
25. 10:46 PM - Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock (Deems Davis)
26. 11:32 PM - Re: Re: The ultimate door latch (Henkjan van der Zouw)
27. 11:53 PM - Re: Re: The ultimate door latch (Scott Lewis)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock |
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Larry Rosen LarryRosen@comcast.net
> I like the solution. Now where are you going to get the 3rd lock for
> the passenger side?
I plan to lock the passenger door from inside only -- no external lock.
One very simple method would be to drill a pair of vertically-oriented holes through
the interior door handle on the forward, outboard corner. To lock the door,
drop a bolt or nail thru the hole pair. This would prevent the latch from
being pressed, so the handle could not be rotated.
Tim Lewis
RV-6 N47TD -- 830 hrs
RV-10 N31TD (reserved)
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Larry Rosen LarryRosen@comcast.net
<LARRYROSEN@COMCAST.NET> I like the solution. Now where are you going to get the
3rd lock for
the passenger side?
I plan to lock the passenger door from inside only -- no external lock.
One very simple method would be to drill a pair of vertically-oriented holes through
the interior door handle on the forward, outboard corner. To lock the door,
drop a bolt or nail thru the hole pair. This would prevent the latch from
being pressed, so the handle could not be rotated.
Tim Lewis
RV-6 N47TD -- 830 hrs
RV-10 N31TD (reserved)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Putting on the top question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Marcus,
I would do as much sanding/filling on the top interior as possible
before installing permanently. If you're going to paint the interior
top, I'd also do that before installing. If you're going with a
headliner and the surface prep is finished, it won't be too bad to
install later. You will be dealing with Proseal (aft cabin top to
tailcone interface), epoxy (door frame to cabin side interface + misc),
window adhesive and some interior paint after installing the top - lot's
of opportunity for a headliner to get damaged. It's probably easier to
avoid than protect.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 5:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Putting on the top question
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
I am ready to permanently install the top and have a question for those
that
have completed this stage. I plan to put in a fabric headliner, but
haven't
quite picked out the color scheme/material. The plans recommend
painting/installing liners prior to putting on the lid, but that would
cause
me a significant delay (and I'm not terribly patient when it comes to
big
progress moments like this). Am I going to really regret not doing
certain
prep work, or is it a minor inconvenience to do later.
One other thing I noted that is causing me to go this direction,
it
looks like I'll just be scratching the paint even more around the
forward
bulkhead during the final install so I'm hesitant to get too far on the
finish work.
Thanks,
Marcus
40286 - It's really starting to look like an airplane!
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock |
About those locks with identical keys. Some one has already posted several months
ago about a source in WA. I bought three packages with two locks in each all
identically keyed for $20 total. Identical to the aviation lock except the retaining
washer for the inside. We will fab a washer or glue the locknut in place.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 6:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Larry Rosen LarryRosen@comcast.net
> I like the solution. Now where are you going to get the 3rd lock for
> the passenger side?
I plan to lock the passenger door from inside only -- no external lock.
One very simple method would be to drill a pair of vertically-oriented holes
through the interior door handle on the forward, outboard corner. To lock the
door, drop a bolt or nail thru the hole pair. This would prevent the latch from
being pressed, so the handle could not be rotated.
Tim Lewis
RV-6 N47TD -- 830 hrs
RV-10 N31TD (reserved)
Message 4
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| Subject: | The ultimate door latch |
This a.m. I had something WAY cool in my inbox. There
is a place that saw the need for a better RV-10 latch
system and they sent me and a couple other
builders some photos. I asked if I could repost
to the list and got the green light, so here you go.
I only wish I had known about these while I was doing
the doors, but now I'll just fly as-is and then
this summer see if I can retrofit these.
Here's a link on my site for those who don't get the
individual emails:
http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/DoorLatch/cosslatch.html
I can't see it getting any better than this.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
---------------
Hi
We have developed door latches to replace the existing Van's doorlocks.
They have flush handles on the outside and low profile on the inside
with an over centre lock.
They latches for the RV10 cost US$350 per side.
Please see attached photos.
For any inquiries please email us on info@cossaviation.com. Please let
us know if you would like to be subscribed to our Newsletter.
Ashley
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
Those are awesome. A little pricey but not much when you compare it to the
total cost of the project, I guess. Just last night I was looking over some
of the builder websites at interiors and hoping that someone would come up
with a better looking/functioning door handle than the stock vans pieces. I
guess my wish came true. Now, onto the bigger wishes.....
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators/deburring tailcone parts
#40137
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 8:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: The ultimate door latch
> This a.m. I had something WAY cool in my inbox. There
> is a place that saw the need for a better RV-10 latch
> system and they sent me and a couple other
> builders some photos. I asked if I could repost
> to the list and got the green light, so here you go.
> I only wish I had known about these while I was doing
> the doors, but now I'll just fly as-is and then
> this summer see if I can retrofit these.
>
> Here's a link on my site for those who don't get the
> individual emails:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/DoorLatch/cosslatch.html
>
> I can't see it getting any better than this.
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>
>
> ---------------
> Hi
>
> We have developed door latches to replace the existing Van's doorlocks.
>
> They have flush handles on the outside and low profile on the inside
> with an over centre lock.
>
> They latches for the RV10 cost US$350 per side.
>
> Please see attached photos.
>
> For any inquiries please email us on info@cossaviation.com. Please let
> us know if you would like to be subscribed to our Newsletter.
>
> Ashley
> --------------
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | The ultimate door latch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes@qnsi.net>
For $350 it should provide a method to lock the doors. IMHP
Bobby
40116
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 8:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: The ultimate door latch
This a.m. I had something WAY cool in my inbox. There is a place that
saw the need for a better RV-10 latch system and they sent me and a
couple other builders some photos. I asked if I could repost to the
list and got the green light, so here you go.
I only wish I had known about these while I was doing the doors, but now
I'll just fly as-is and then this summer see if I can retrofit these.
Here's a link on my site for those who don't get the individual emails:
http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/DoorLatch/cosslatch.html
I can't see it getting any better than this.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
---------------
Hi
We have developed door latches to replace the existing Van's doorlocks.
They have flush handles on the outside and low profile on the inside
with an over centre lock.
They latches for the RV10 cost US$350 per side.
Please see attached photos.
For any inquiries please email us on info@cossaviation.com. Please let
us know if you would like to be subscribed to our Newsletter.
Ashley
Message 7
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| Subject: | The ultimate door latch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
For $350, I wish I had an affiliation with them....
They know these don't need to be TSO'd right?
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
You know, I just assumed these had a keylock of some sort, but
if so, it's well hidden. I'll email them and ask if it's
locking. If it's just a different style latch, then I agree
with you. If it's locking, then $350 would be expensive
but probably worth it overall.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Bobby J. Hughes wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes@qnsi.net>
>
> For $350 it should provide a method to lock the doors. IMHP
>
> Bobby
> 40116
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 8:45 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: The ultimate door latch
>
> This a.m. I had something WAY cool in my inbox. There is a place that
> saw the need for a better RV-10 latch system and they sent me and a
> couple other builders some photos. I asked if I could repost to the
> list and got the green light, so here you go.
> I only wish I had known about these while I was doing the doors, but now
> I'll just fly as-is and then this summer see if I can retrofit these.
>
> Here's a link on my site for those who don't get the individual emails:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/DoorLatch/cosslatch.html
>
> I can't see it getting any better than this.
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>
>
>
>
> ---------------
> Hi
>
> We have developed door latches to replace the existing Van's doorlocks.
>
> They have flush handles on the outside and low profile on the inside
> with an over centre lock.
>
> They latches for the RV10 cost US$350 per side.
>
> Please see attached photos.
>
> For any inquiries please email us on info@cossaviation.com. Please let
> us know if you would like to be subscribed to our Newsletter.
>
> Ashley
> --------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | The ultimate door latch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I also emailed them but we probably won't hear back for a day or so. I
went to www.cossaviation.com and it shows them as being in South Africa.
Not sure what time zone that is...
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: The ultimate door latch
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
You know, I just assumed these had a keylock of some sort, but
if so, it's well hidden. I'll email them and ask if it's
locking. If it's just a different style latch, then I agree
with you. If it's locking, then $350 would be expensive
but probably worth it overall.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Bobby J. Hughes wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes@qnsi.net>
>
> For $350 it should provide a method to lock the doors. IMHP
>
> Bobby
> 40116
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 8:45 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: The ultimate door latch
>
> This a.m. I had something WAY cool in my inbox. There is a place that
> saw the need for a better RV-10 latch system and they sent me and a
> couple other builders some photos. I asked if I could repost to the
> list and got the green light, so here you go.
> I only wish I had known about these while I was doing the doors, but
now
> I'll just fly as-is and then this summer see if I can retrofit these.
>
> Here's a link on my site for those who don't get the individual
emails:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/DoorLatch/cosslatch.html
>
> I can't see it getting any better than this.
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>
>
>
>
> ---------------
> Hi
>
> We have developed door latches to replace the existing Van's
doorlocks.
>
> They have flush handles on the outside and low profile on the inside
> with an over centre lock.
>
> They latches for the RV10 cost US$350 per side.
>
> Please see attached photos.
>
> For any inquiries please email us on info@cossaviation.com. Please let
> us know if you would like to be subscribed to our Newsletter.
>
> Ashley
> --------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | ECI Titan Cylinders Not Affected |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I just received email clarification from ECI regarding
the current 1/2006 issue affecting Classic Cast cylinders.
I wanted to verify that Titan cylinders are not affected.
They verified that this is true. So, my new Aerosport
IO-540 and all others built with new ECI Titan Cylinders
should not be affected by any issues currently known.
I thought this might be good news/info. to post to the
group.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive Cabin Door Lock |
In a message dated 1/17/2006 9:31:15 AM Eastern Standard Time,
dlm46007@cox.net writes:
Some one has already posted several months ago about a source in WA. I bought
three packages with two locks in each all identically keyed for $20 total
FYI - My office mail box key will open most Cessna's on the ramp, including
my C-170, so this is NOT Ft. Knox technology. And why in the world would
anyone want locks that only lock from the inside????? That is a potential safety
risk.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Steve
Stephen G. Blank,DDS
RV-10 #40499 Building the HS
Cessna 170b Flyer
Port St Lucie, FL
772-475-5556 cell
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
>Those are awesome. A little pricey but not much when you
>compare it to the total cost of the project, I guess.
Yes, when you consider the total cost of the project it amounts to only about 1/2
of 1% of the final cost. Percentage wise, this is high for such a component.
Looking at it that way it is small, however US$350 per side, $700 per plane
without a lock is a bit pricey IMHO. Maybe door handles for Mooneys are as
pricey, but there is the added burden of certification. Just as a comparison,
a certified Andair fuel valve is about $300.
I don't doubt that this hardware is of high quality, however worth it? Some will
think so, but I think many will not.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Message 13
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|
While on the subject of cabin doors, i've noticed that the 10 door seems to feel
flimsy, it does not feel as stable or solid as perhaps that of a Cirrus. I
realize weight is a factor.
Any thoughts
Regards - Paul Walter
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
Other than being pricey; sending the money beyond USA borders is risky ; Ask the
people who have dealt with the Subaru engine supplier in Canada.
----- Original Message -----
From: William
To: RV10-List@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 4:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>Those are awesome. A little pricey but not much when you
>compare it to the total cost of the project, I guess.
Yes, when you consider the total cost of the project it amounts to only about
1/2 of 1% of the final cost. Percentage wise, this is high for such a component.
Looking at it that way it is small, however US$350 per side, $700 per plane
without a lock is a bit pricey IMHO. Maybe door handles for Mooneys are as pricey,
but there is the added burden of certification. Just as a comparison, a
certified Andair fuel valve is about $300.
I don't doubt that this hardware is of high quality, however worth it? Some will
think so, but I think many will not.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Message 15
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Hey everyone,
I'm getting close to working on the firewall and wonder if there is anything
different about the deburring process. Do I still use the same Scotchbrite
wheels and other stuff?
Thanks,
Sean Blair
#40225
Message 16
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ALLCON:
I was planning on making some of our avionics wiring a little modular by using
some terminal strips. I wanted to use something a little more sophisticated than
just the exposed-screw-head type of terminal strips, but haven't found anything
good yet in the Mouser catalog. Anyone got any suggestions?
TDT
40025
Message 17
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
EDMO has grounding blocks from 15-37 pin.
Noel 325HP flying FAST building more!!!
www.blueskyaviation.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 7:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: terminal strips
ALLCON:
I was planning on making some of our avionics wiring a little modular by
using some terminal strips. I wanted to use something a little more
sophisticated than just the exposed-screw-head type of terminal strips, but
haven't found anything good yet in the Mouser catalog. Anyone got any
suggestions?
TDT
40025
Message 18
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|
I was certain I read about someone, somehow, making the Van's window
glue thick as peanut butter, so it would be easier to handle.
Harris, Jeremy P wrote:
> We haven't used West epoxy to install the windows. Not that far yet.
> Will probably consider the Lancair stuff referenced below...
>
> In general - the West System epoxy is a pretty good structural
> adhesive. However, there are lots of them out there with different
> characteristics. Some epoxies allow you to mix different ratios of
> hardener and resin to get cures as hard as a rock or pliable as
> rubber. Adding a matrix like cotton flocks just makes the epoxy less
> prone to cracking. However, the finish isn't as nice as with micro
> balloons but you trade finish for strength. The note about expansion
> and contraction of the plexi is definitely worth considering...
>
>
> Jeremy P. Harris
> Integrated Missile Defense
> BMDS Architectures Lab
>
> The Boeing Company
> Washington, DC
> Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
> Cell: (703) 627-6500
> Fax: (703) 414-6372
> MC: 793C-G007
> Office: 825B
>
>
>
> From: Sam Marlow [mailto:sam.marlow@adelphia.net]
> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 9:09 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows
>
> Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows?
> Is that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will
> it work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System
> epoxy, and return the window glue to Van's?
>
> Harris, Jeremy P wrote:
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
>>
>>Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and is
>>available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30 min),
>>slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and cotton flox
>>seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well for
>>filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints.
>>
>>
>>Jeremy P. Harris
>>Integrated Missile Defense
>>BMDS Architectures Lab
>>
>>The Boeing Company
>>Washington, DC
>>Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
>>Cell: (703) 627-6500
>>Fax: (703) 414-6372
>>MC: 793C-G007
>>Office: 825B
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@itecusa.org]
>>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>>
>>We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use Van's
>>recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder recommended.
>>It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to work
>>really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear, than the
>>stuff that Van's sells.
>>
>>Jesse Saint
>>I-TEC, Inc.
>>jesse@itecusa.org
>>www.itecusa.org
>>Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>>I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
>>please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
>>me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but
>>it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
>>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RV10-List: Windows
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
>>
>>I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the
>>windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used?
>>Sam Marlow
>>Fuse RV10
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Message 19
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But what about the windshield, it's epoxied in with several layers of
glass cloth to the boot cowl. Aren't all RV windshield attached the same
way?
John Gonzalez wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
> I think the contraction and expansion issue is everything with regards
> to canopies, they expand and contract a HUGE amount.
>
> John
>
>
>> From: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
>> Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 12:13:47 -0800
>>
>> We haven't used West epoxy to install the windows. Not that far yet.
>> Will probably consider the Lancair stuff referenced below...
>>
>> In general - the West System epoxy is a pretty good structural adhesive.
>> However, there are lots of them out there with different
>> characteristics. Some epoxies allow you to mix different ratios of
>> hardener and resin to get cures as hard as a rock or pliable as rubber.
>> Adding a matrix like cotton flocks just makes the epoxy less prone to
>> cracking. However, the finish isn't as nice as with micro balloons but
>> you trade finish for strength. The note about expansion and contraction
>> of the plexi is definitely worth considering...
>>
>>
>> Jeremy P. Harris
>> Integrated Missile Defense
>> BMDS Architectures Lab
>>
>> The Boeing Company
>> Washington, DC
>> Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
>> Cell: (703) 627-6500
>> Fax: (703) 414-6372
>> MC: 793C-G007
>> Office: 825B
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>>
>> From: Sam Marlow [mailto:sam.marlow@adelphia.net]
>> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 9:09 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows
>>
>>
>> Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows? Is
>> that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it
>> work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy,
>> and return the window glue to Van's?
>>
>> Harris, Jeremy P wrote:
>>
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P"
>> <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com> <mailto:jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
>>
>> Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to
>> use and is
>> available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast
>> (30 min),
>> slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and
>> cotton flox
>> seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well
>> for
>> filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints.
>>
>>
>> Jeremy P. Harris
>> Integrated Missile Defense
>> BMDS Architectures Lab
>>
>> The Boeing Company
>> Washington, DC
>> Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
>> Cell: (703) 627-6500
>> Fax: (703) 414-6372
>> MC: 793C-G007
>> Office: 825B
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse@itecusa.org]
>> Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint"
>> <jesse@itecusa.org> <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
>>
>> We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't
>> use Van's
>> recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder
>> recommended.
>> It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to
>> work
>> really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear,
>> than the
>> stuff that Van's sells.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> I-TEC, Inc.
>> jesse@itecusa.org
>> www.itecusa.org
>> Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>> I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions
>> regarding I-TEC,
>> please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to
>> talk to
>> me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be
>> on, but
>> it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam
>> Marlow
>> Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Windows
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow
>> <sam.marlow@adelphia.net> <mailto:sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
>>
>> I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for
>> the
>> windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was
>> used?
>> Sam Marlow
>> Fuse RV10
>>
>>
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> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock |
Tim,
Can you give the dimensions of your LOCK for the RV 10 door? Size of hole in door.........length
of cam lock........length of locking bar..............etc.
I have seen several locks like this on office furniture.........desk drawers,
file cabinets, curio cabinets........etc.
Thanks,
DEAN
Tim,
Can you give the dimensions of your LOCK for the RV 10 door? Size of hole in door.........length
of cam lock........length of locking bar..............etc. I
have seen several locks like this on office furniture.........desk drawers, file
cabinets, curio cabinets........etc.
Thanks,
DEAN
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock |
Sorry,,,,,,,,forgot to include the website on my previous reply.
http://www.mrlock.com/eshop/locks/mfg/esp/ulrcam.html?mv_pc=3Dgo_camlk#
DEAN
Sorry,,,,,,,,forgot to include the website on my previous reply.
http://www.mrlock.com/eshop/locks/mfg/esp/ulrcam.html?mv_pc=3Dgo_camlk#
DEAN
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I mentioned this a while ago on the list, but wasn't sure if it would
work for a door lock. I'm not familiar with Zinc in relation to
corrosion, so not sure about that. I was planning on attempting to use
this for the baggage door lock, but it may be reasonable for a door lock
also? I like the idea of a combination as opposed to a key as I am
prone to loosing them. :)
<http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=11231>
Comments?
-Sean #40303 (Not far enough along to think *too* hard about locks yet)
http://rv10.stephensville.com
ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
>
> Sorry,,,,,,,,forgot to include the website on my previous reply.
>
> http://www.mrlock.com/eshop/locks/mfg/esp/ulrcam.html?mv_pc=go_camlk#
>
>
>
> DEAN
>
>
>
Message 23
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My first bout with the proseal went pretty good. Not near as bad as I was expecting
after some of the conversations on the lists. Just one question though.
How do I know when it is done "curing"??? Does it stay rubbery or does it harden???
I've got one trailing edge skin that got a little wavy when edge rolling
it and I want to be sure the proseal is fully cured before removing the clamps
from it (don't want the proseal coming loose and letting the skin pillow
up)
Sorry for the lame question,
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators/deburring tailcone
Message 24
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Bill, Pro Seal never gets 'hard' is stays a rubbery-like texture, but it
does get to a point where it is not plyable and is not able to be
deformed without returning to its 'cured' state. the curing time depends
on how much catalyst you mixed with it, how thouroughly it was mixed,
and the temperature in which it cures. If it cured @ room temperature
(70 degrees +) I would wait AT LEAST 24 hours before removing any
clamps, and preferrably, 48 hrs. If it cured at a cooler temperature I
would extend the time considerably (e.g. when leak testing my fuel tanks
I waited 3+ weeks to make sure everytning was cured befor applying any
pressure) 9OK so it helped that i had lots of other things to do in the
meantime).
Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> My first bout with the proseal went pretty good. Not near as bad as I
> was expecting after some of the conversations on the lists. Just one
> question though. How do I know when it is done "curing"??? Does it
> stay rubbery or does it harden??? I've got one trailing edge skin
> that got a little wavy when edge rolling it and I want to be sure the
> proseal is fully cured before removing the clamps from it (don't want
> the proseal coming loose and letting the skin pillow up)
>
> Sorry for the lame question,
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Elevators/deburring tailcone
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I like the combination lock idea, as I share in the lost-key syndrome.
It appears that the lock protrudes quite away out from the surface, and
that's a bit of a turnoff for me. don't have a clue as to zinc's
corrosive properties.
Deems Davis # 406
Wings (Fuse arrived today !!!!!!!! :-) )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Sean Stephens wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> I mentioned this a while ago on the list, but wasn't sure if it would
> work for a door lock. I'm not familiar with Zinc in relation to
> corrosion, so not sure about that. I was planning on attempting to
> use this for the baggage door lock, but it may be reasonable for a
> door lock also? I like the idea of a combination as opposed to a key
> as I am prone to loosing them. :)
>
> <http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=11231>
>
> Comments?
>
> -Sean #40303 (Not far enough along to think *too* hard about locks yet)
> http://rv10.stephensville.com
>
>
> ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Sorry,,,,,,,,forgot to include the website on my previous reply.
>>
>> http://www.mrlock.com/eshop/locks/mfg/esp/ulrcam.html?mv_pc=go_camlk#
>>
>>
>>
>> DEAN
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
Sorry for the somewhat strong words but there still are honest people
around..
www.zme.nl <http://www.zme.nl/>
http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=phzme
<http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=phzme&project=1> &project=1
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] Namens David McNeill
Verzonden: woensdag 18 januari 2006 2:46
Aan: rv10-list@matronics.com
Onderwerp: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
Other than being pricey; sending the money beyond USA borders is risky ;
Ask the people who have dealt with the Subaru engine supplier in Canada.
----- Original Message -----
From: William <mailto:wcurtis@core.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 4:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>Those are awesome. A little pricey but not much when you
>compare it to the total cost of the project, I guess.
Yes, when you consider the total cost of the project it amounts to only
about 1/2 of 1% of the final cost. Percentage wise, this is high for
such a component. Looking at it that way it is small, however US$350 per
side, $700 per plane without a lock is a bit pricey IMHO. Maybe door
handles for Mooneys are as pricey, but there is the added burden of
certification. Just as a comparison, a certified Andair fuel valve is
about $300.
I don't doubt that this hardware is of high quality, however worth it?
Some will think so, but I think many will not.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Scott Lewis <rv10@tpg.com.au>
G'day,
I know the feeling. The amount of money I have dispatched overseas,
mostly to the US, is more than I care to admit to.
I, for one, would be interested in what you can offer.
Kind Regards,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172
Adelaide, South Australia
Henkjan van der Zouw wrote:
> I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
> messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
> from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
> builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
> because its a necessity over here, if there are people who dont have
> problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
> of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
> having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
> contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>
>
>
> Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>
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