Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:34 AM - Re: Re: The ultimate door latch (Chuck Jensen)
2. 05:01 AM - Fire Wall Connectors (Harris, Jeremy P)
3. 05:07 AM - Re: Re: The ultimate door latch (Scott Lewis)
4. 05:15 AM - Re: Re: The ultimate door latch (David McNeill)
5. 05:27 AM - Re: The ultimate door latch (Dan Masys)
6. 05:54 AM - Re: Re: The ultimate door latch (bob.kaufmann)
7. 06:09 AM - Re: Re: The ultimate door latch (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
8. 06:13 AM - Re: Proseal (Bill and Tami Britton)
9. 06:13 AM - Re: The ultimate door latch (Tim Olson)
10. 06:14 AM - Re: terminal strips (linn walters)
11. 06:20 AM - FW: RV10 latches - more info (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
12. 06:29 AM - Insurance quote (Tim Olson)
13. 06:30 AM - Re: Re: The ultimate door latch (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
14. 06:31 AM - Re: Proseal (Tim Olson)
15. 06:38 AM - Re: Re: The ultimate door latch (Rick)
16. 07:13 AM - Re: Insurance quote (Phillips, Jack)
17. 07:14 AM - Re: Re: The ultimate door latch (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
18. 07:23 AM - Re: Insurance quote (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
19. 07:37 AM - Re: Insurance quote (Sean Stephens)
20. 08:26 AM - Re: Proseal (James Hein)
21. 08:26 AM - Re: Insurance quote (Dan Masys)
22. 08:36 AM - Re: Insurance quote (Randy DeBauw)
23. 08:39 AM - Re: Insurance quote (Randy DeBauw)
24. 08:41 AM - Re: Insurance quote (Phillips, Jack)
25. 08:43 AM - Re: Re: The ultimate door latch (Mike Howe)
26. 09:04 AM - Re: Insurance quote (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
27. 09:11 AM - Re: Insurance quote (Tim Olson)
28. 09:25 AM - Re: Insurance quote (Dan Masys)
29. 10:17 AM - Re: Re: The ultimate door latch (Werner Schneider)
30. 10:41 AM - Re: Re: The ultimate door latch (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
31. 11:12 AM - Pitot lines - paper of plastic? (John Testement)
32. 12:41 PM - Trim change during flap extension (Ted on RV list)
33. 12:51 PM - Drill hole in Flap Motor (Larry Rosen)
34. 01:42 PM - Re: Re: The ultimate door latch (David McNeill)
35. 01:46 PM - Re: Fuel Senders, Gauges, Accuracy (Jesse Saint)
36. 01:47 PM - Re: center console access (Jesse Saint)
37. 02:19 PM - Re: Pitot lines - paper of plastic? (Dan Masys)
38. 02:39 PM - Re: Pitot lines - paper of plastic? (linn walters)
39. 02:53 PM - Re: Pitot lines - paper of plastic? (Sean Stephens)
40. 02:55 PM - Re: Pitot lines - paper of plastic? (Kelly McMullen)
41. 03:29 PM - Re: Pitot lines - paper of plastic? (linn walters)
42. 03:31 PM - Re: Pitot lines - paper of plastic? (linn walters)
43. 03:40 PM - RV-10 Tow Bar (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
44. 04:08 PM - Re: center console access (Randy DeBauw)
45. 04:09 PM - Re: Pitot lines - paper of plastic? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
46. 04:10 PM - Re: RV-10 Tow Bar (Randy DeBauw)
47. 04:13 PM - Re: Drill hole in Flap Motor (Randy DeBauw)
48. 04:14 PM - Re: Fuel Senders, Gauges, Accuracy (Randy DeBauw)
49. 04:15 PM - Re: RV-10 Tow Bar (Mark Ritter)
50. 04:40 PM - Re: Drill hole in Flap Motor (Larry Rosen)
51. 05:02 PM - The ultimate door latch (bob.kaufmann)
52. 06:18 PM - Re: The ultimate door latch (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
53. 07:01 PM - Re: Re: The ultimate door latch (John Gonzalez)
54. 07:03 PM - Re: The ultimate door latch (David McNeill)
55. 07:33 PM - Re: Pitot lines - paper of plastic? (Chris)
56. 07:33 PM - Elevator Travel (Joseph Czachorowski)
57. 09:38 PM - Re: Fire Wall Connectors (Steven DiNieri)
58. 09:40 PM - Corrugated tubing for wire runs (ddddsp1@juno.com)
59. 11:00 PM - Re: Drill hole in Flap Motor (Rick)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Money overseas? The fellow that made an earlier posting about sending
money overseas was not intending to impugn the integrity of Holland,
Canada, Australia or anyone other than perhaps the Romanians that want
money sent via Western Union for a brand new Harley Davidson motorcycle
for $500.
Actually, we don't have to go overseas to get scammed and
short-changed--there's plenty of people/companies that are willing to
accommodate domestically. So apologies to any of our off-shore brethren
if there we any negative implications about honesty, integrity or
quality.
As an aside, I would like to mention my good fortune. Just yesterday I
received noticed that the former minister of Agriculture in Nigeria
wishes to send me $25,000,000 to hold for him in my bank account. When
he gets to the States, I have to turn the money over to him but I get to
keep 10% as an expression of gratitude for my assistance. I was hoping
for 15%, but I will have to be satisfied with 10%. Early this morning,
I must remember to send him my back account information so that he can
wire the money promptly. I just can't believe my luck!
Chuck Jensen
Do Not Archive
Do Not Believe
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Lewis
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 2:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
--> RV10-List message posted by: Scott Lewis <rv10@tpg.com.au>
G'day,
I know the feeling. The amount of money I have dispatched overseas,
mostly to the US, is more than I care to admit to.
I, for one, would be interested in what you can offer.
Kind Regards,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172
Adelaide, South Australia
Henkjan van der Zouw wrote:
> I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
> messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
> from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
> builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
> because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
> problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy
most
> of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
> having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
> contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>
>
>
> Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Fire Wall Connectors |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
Anyone find a good supplier for high temp, environmentally rated,
vibration rated, firewall circular bulkhead mount connectors? I'm
thinking Amphenol but a little wary of the price per connector ($100+
ea). Any recommendations? We presently have some plastic AMP
connectors but they are only rated to 300 degrees F and are not
environmentally sealed. I'm looking for 16 contacts per circular
connector, #18 wire each. Anyone have any good ideas?
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Scott Lewis <rv10@tpg.com.au>
Chuck Jensen wrote:
> As an aside, I would like to mention my good fortune. Just yesterday I
> received noticed that the former minister of Agriculture in Nigeria
> wishes to send me $25,000,000 to hold for him in my bank account. When
> he gets to the States, I have to turn the money over to him but I get to
> keep 10% as an expression of gratitude for my assistance. I was hoping
> for 15%, but I will have to be satisfied with 10%. Early this morning,
> I must remember to send him my back account information so that he can
> wire the money promptly. I just can't believe my luck!
BWAH!!!! Call that luck?!
In the last 2 weeks my email adress has been randomly selected to win no
less that 6 major prizes in international lotteries. I'm cashing
in!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Tongue FIRMLY in cheek,
Scott
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
The intent was not to impugn the honest non US manufacturers but to suggest
due diligence. Having spent 16 years outside the USA in business assignment
I have seen the scams and have seen the difficulty of dealing with the laws
of a foreign (to me) language and government. My main point is that "if you
won't feel bad if you are being scammed for the money, then by all means buy
the product". On the other hand $350 per handle (as a probable cash
transaction) would indicate caution.
My condolences to those who paid for their Glastar kits in Australia in
2000(?) and received nothing in return. Likewise those USA RV builders who
paid for an engine from Canada (prominently displayed at OSH 2003
,2004,2005) and are flying a Lycoming because the Canadian supplier never
delivered. Try dealing with the lawyers across international borders.
For me, I bought the Glastar kits and the RV kits in entirety as soon as
available and with credit card (which provides some protection under US
law). Having lived through and watched from the outside the BD 5 fiasco
where kits were supplied but no viable engine was ever supplied, I resolved
to avoid that if at all possible. Even with these precautions I still had to
have fabricated, from extrapolated drawings, several steel parts. They were
ordered, paid, backordered but never delivered.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 5:31 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
>
> Money overseas? The fellow that made an earlier posting about sending
> money overseas was not intending to impugn the integrity of Holland,
> Canada, Australia or anyone other than perhaps the Romanians that want
> money sent via Western Union for a brand new Harley Davidson motorcycle
> for $500.
>
> Actually, we don't have to go overseas to get scammed and
> short-changed--there's plenty of people/companies that are willing to
> accommodate domestically. So apologies to any of our off-shore brethren
> if there we any negative implications about honesty, integrity or
> quality.
>
> As an aside, I would like to mention my good fortune. Just yesterday I
> received noticed that the former minister of Agriculture in Nigeria
> wishes to send me $25,000,000 to hold for him in my bank account. When
> he gets to the States, I have to turn the money over to him but I get to
> keep 10% as an expression of gratitude for my assistance. I was hoping
> for 15%, but I will have to be satisfied with 10%. Early this morning,
> I must remember to send him my back account information so that he can
> wire the money promptly. I just can't believe my luck!
>
> Chuck Jensen
> Do Not Archive
> Do Not Believe
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Lewis
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 2:53 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Scott Lewis <rv10@tpg.com.au>
>
> G'day,
>
> I know the feeling. The amount of money I have dispatched overseas,
> mostly to the US, is more than I care to admit to.
>
> I, for one, would be interested in what you can offer.
>
> Kind Regards,
> Scott Lewis
> RV-10 40172
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
> Henkjan van der Zouw wrote:
>> I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
>> messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
>> from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
>> builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
>> because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
>
>> problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy
> most
>> of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
>> having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
>> contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>>
>>
>>
>> Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
Go for it, Henkjan. In an Internet-enabled global economy, if you "build a better
mousetrap" and sell it at a reasonable price, word spreads very quickly.
And the community of talented RV builders has no geopolitical boundaries.
Seems to me that, in their drive to make things simple, Van's made those door handles
a little too simple. They just look plain ugly and out of character with
the rest of the technology in the airframe. If you've got a more elegant locking
design for the price you mention, count me in.
-Dan Masys
70238 and 40448
Tailcone done; QB fuse and wings arrive next week.
> From: "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan@zme.nl>
> Date: 2006/01/18 Wed AM 02:38:33 EST
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
> I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
> messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
> from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
> builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
> because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
> problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
> of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
> having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
> contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>
>
>
> Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
I also will take one. The passenger door will only be opened from the
inside.
Bob K
40125 working on fuselage, finish kit ordered
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 5:20 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
Go for it, Henkjan. In an Internet-enabled global economy, if you "build a
better mousetrap" and sell it at a reasonable price, word spreads very
quickly. And the community of talented RV builders has no geopolitical
boundaries.
Seems to me that, in their drive to make things simple, Van's made those
door handles a little too simple. They just look plain ugly and out of
character with the rest of the technology in the airframe. If you've got a
more elegant locking design for the price you mention, count me in.
-Dan Masys
70238 and 40448
Tailcone done; QB fuse and wings arrive next week.
> From: "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan@zme.nl>
> Date: 2006/01/18 Wed AM 02:38:33 EST
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
> I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
> messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
> from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
> builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
> because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
> problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
> of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
> having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
> contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>
>
>
> Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
Before too many folks jump on this, let's also remember that Andair is
in the UK and many of us do business with them.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Henkjan van
der Zouw
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
Sorry for the somewhat strong words but there still are honest people
around....
www.zme.nl <http://www.zme.nl/>
http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=3Dphzme&project=3D1
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] Namens David McNeill
Verzonden: woensdag 18 januari 2006 2:46
Aan: rv10-list@matronics.com
Onderwerp: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
Other than being pricey; sending the money beyond USA borders is risky ;
Ask the people who have dealt with the Subaru engine supplier in Canada.
----- Original Message -----
From: William <mailto:wcurtis@core.com>
To: RV10-List@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 4:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>Those are awesome. A little pricey but not much when you
>compare it to the total cost of the project, I guess.
=09
Yes, when you consider the total cost of the project it amounts
to only about 1/2 of 1% of the final cost. Percentage wise, this is high
for such a component. Looking at it that way it is small, however US$350
per side, $700 per plane without a lock is a bit pricey IMHO. Maybe door
handles for Mooneys are as pricey, but there is the added burden of
certification. Just as a comparison, a certified Andair fuel valve is
about $300.
=09
I don't doubt that this hardware is of high quality, however
worth it? Some will think so, but I think many will not.
=09
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Message 8
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
Thanks Deems. That's all I needed to know. I brought the elevators into my
house to cure so they re in 70 degree temps. I'll leave them for probably 3
days and check them out.
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 12:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Proseal
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> Bill, Pro Seal never gets 'hard' is stays a rubbery-like texture, but it
> does get to a point where it is not plyable and is not able to be deformed
> without returning to its 'cured' state. the curing time depends on how
> much catalyst you mixed with it, how thouroughly it was mixed, and the
> temperature in which it cures. If it cured @ room temperature (70 degrees
> +) I would wait AT LEAST 24 hours before removing any clamps, and
> preferrably, 48 hrs. If it cured at a cooler temperature I would extend
> the time considerably (e.g. when leak testing my fuel tanks I waited 3+
> weeks to make sure everytning was cured befor applying any pressure) 9OK
> so it helped that i had lots of other things to do in the meantime).
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Wings
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
>
>> My first bout with the proseal went pretty good. Not near as bad as I
>> was expecting after some of the conversations on the lists. Just one
>> question though. How do I know when it is done "curing"??? Does it stay
>> rubbery or does it harden??? I've got one trailing edge skin that got a
>> little wavy when edge rolling it and I want to be sure the proseal is
>> fully cured before removing the clamps from it (don't want the proseal
>> coming loose and letting the skin pillow up)
>> Sorry for the lame question,
>> Bill Britton
>> RV-10 Elevators/deburring tailcone
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Just an update for you all...
Today I got an email again from them regarding the lock. I posted it
on the same page at:
http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/DoorLatch/cosslatch.html
Apparently the latch is lockable, using the standard Van's keylock.
With the offering by Henkjan, the competition is heating up, which
is a good thing.
Anyway, it's worth reading their note.
Tim
---
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Bobby J. Hughes wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes@qnsi.net>
>>
>> For $350 it should provide a method to lock the doors. IMHP
>>
>> Bobby
>> 40116
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 8:45 AM
>> To: RV10
>> Subject: RV10-List: The ultimate door latch
>>
>> This a.m. I had something WAY cool in my inbox. There is a place that
>> saw the need for a better RV-10 latch system and they sent me and a
>> couple other builders some photos. I asked if I could repost to the
>> list and got the green light, so here you go.
>> I only wish I had known about these while I was doing the doors, but now
>> I'll just fly as-is and then this summer see if I can retrofit these.
>>
>> Here's a link on my site for those who don't get the individual emails:
>>
>> http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/DoorLatch/cosslatch.html
>>
>> I can't see it getting any better than this.
>>
>> --
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ---------------
>> Hi
>>
>> We have developed door latches to replace the existing Van's doorlocks.
>>
>> They have flush handles on the outside and low profile on the inside
>> with an over centre lock.
>>
>> They latches for the RV10 cost US$350 per side.
>>
>> Please see attached photos.
>>
>> For any inquiries please email us on info@cossaviation.com. Please let
>> us know if you would like to be subscribed to our Newsletter.
>>
>> Ashley
>> --------------
>>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: terminal strips |
Be careful what you wish for. The 'exposed-screw-head' type offer great
accessability, good connection, and a fixed location. And it's probably
not going to be seen when construction is done. Think KISS. Depending
on WHY you want to make a wire connection, an inline plug may make more
sense. The 'exposed-screw-head' strip is great for a distribution
point, but a PITA if you're goint to unhook a bundle of wires later on.
Linn
do not archive
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>ALLCON:
>
>I was planning on making some of our avionics wiring a little modular by using
some terminal strips. I wanted to use something a little more sophisticated
than just the exposed-screw-head type of terminal strips, but haven't found anything
good yet in the Mouser catalog. Anyone got any suggestions?
>
>TDT
>40025
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | FW: RV10 latches - more info |
Here's the response to my door latch inquiry yesterday - not much more
info except the statement that they will be locking.
I believe that there is truly an opportunity here for somebody to make
and sell an improved door latch mechanism that locks. I don't
personally think that being overseas is necessarily a barrier to market
entry. Many small companies also sell through the large distributors
like Aircraft Spruce and even Van's which should ease the mind of
anybody with a concern in that area. I just want to see something
that's well thought out, reasonably priced and actually available. It
seems like there's a large number of items being sold into the homebuilt
market that fall short in at least one of these areas...
Bob #40105
_____
From: Info Cossaviation [mailto:info@cossaviation.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 2:58 AM
Subject: RV10 latches - more info
Hi
The response to our RV10 latch has been amazing, so herewith the answers
to all your questions.
The photos we sent you were of the prototype latch. We are busy building
two RV10s at the moment, and next week, the latches will be fitted. Once
they have been fitted, I will be able to send you some more photographs.
After that, we will be carrying on any minor adjustments that need to be
done.
The latches are lockable, and the keylock is made to fit the ignition
set that comes from Van's Aircraft.
There should be a 2-4 week delivery period, and the price does not
include postage, as we are based in South Africa. This week, I will be
working on the most economical prices for delivery.
Our company provides a building service, specialising in Van's RV range,
Rotorway Exec helicopters and the Australian Spitfire Kit. You can check
out our website at www.cossaviation.com. We are aware that some of the
links etc are not working properly, as we are busy updating the website
at the moment. But, you will be able to see some photographs of our
previous projects.
We are also busy developing an interior kit for RV10s and we have
aluminium towbars for RV10s already developed.
Thank you once again, for all the interest you have shown in our
product.
Ashley
Message 12
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Just wanted to pass on my recent quote. I listed 450 hours TT, which is
a little lower than actual. This is with a private and instrument
rating, and the instrument is usually good for a discount.
The quote is also for a hangered RV-10.
$160K hull value full coverage $3,357 from AIG, requires 5 hours
dual and 10 hours solo. Reduced limits during the flyoff.
$160K hull value full coverage $6,850 from Global, requires 10
hours dual with Mike Seager in ANOTHER RV-10 prior to solo
operation of my RV-10. ** Interesting that they specified
exactly who the transition trainer must be.
It's also interesting to note that if I were to fly off the time,
and then apply for the insurance, the quote would likely be less,
as I'd have 25 hours in Make and Model, plus in my case I'd have
more HP time.
Just passing along my quoted info.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Scott:
Over the years I have tried to offset your flow of funds towards the
U.S. by drinking lots of Fosters . . . so maybe we're even! : )
TDT
40025
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Lewis
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 2:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
--> RV10-List message posted by: Scott Lewis <rv10@tpg.com.au>
G'day,
I know the feeling. The amount of money I have dispatched overseas,
mostly to the US, is more than I care to admit to.
I, for one, would be interested in what you can offer.
Kind Regards,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172
Adelaide, South Australia
Henkjan van der Zouw wrote:
> I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
> messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
> from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
> builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
> because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
> problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy
most
> of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
> having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
> contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>
>
>
> Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>
Message 14
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Bill, I wouldn't worry about 3 days for the elevators. If they're
inside one day or so you should be just fine. FOr the tanks though,
I'd wait a week.
do not archive
Tim
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
>
> Thanks Deems. That's all I needed to know. I brought the elevators
> into my house to cure so they re in 70 degree temps. I'll leave them
> for probably 3 days and check them out.
>
> Bill Britton
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 12:43 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Proseal
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>>
>> Bill, Pro Seal never gets 'hard' is stays a rubbery-like texture, but
>> it does get to a point where it is not plyable and is not able to be
>> deformed without returning to its 'cured' state. the curing time
>> depends on how much catalyst you mixed with it, how thouroughly it was
>> mixed, and the temperature in which it cures. If it cured @ room
>> temperature (70 degrees +) I would wait AT LEAST 24 hours before
>> removing any clamps, and preferrably, 48 hrs. If it cured at a cooler
>> temperature I would extend the time considerably (e.g. when leak
>> testing my fuel tanks I waited 3+ weeks to make sure everytning was
>> cured befor applying any pressure) 9OK so it helped that i had lots of
>> other things to do in the meantime).
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> Wings
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>> Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
>>
>>> My first bout with the proseal went pretty good. Not near as bad as
>>> I was expecting after some of the conversations on the lists. Just
>>> one question though. How do I know when it is done "curing"??? Does
>>> it stay rubbery or does it harden??? I've got one trailing edge skin
>>> that got a little wavy when edge rolling it and I want to be sure the
>>> proseal is fully cured before removing the clamps from it (don't want
>>> the proseal coming loose and letting the skin pillow up)
>>> Sorry for the lame question,
>>> Bill Britton
>>> RV-10 Elevators/deburring tailcone
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
Message 16
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
Did you try Falcon Insurance through the EAA? I have the insurance on
my Pietenpol and my RV-4 with them. Their price is comparable to AIG,
but there is no deductible and you are covered in anything you fly (that
you are qualified to fly) up to the value of your hull insurance. I use
the $50,000 coverage on my RV-4 to allow me to fly a friend's 1934
Fairchild 22 and have full insurance coverage.
Also, Falcon only required me to have 2 hours dual in the RV-4.
Jack Phillips
Pietenpol Air Camper NX899JP
Van's RV-4 N18LR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 9:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Insurance quote
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Just wanted to pass on my recent quote. I listed 450 hours TT, which is
a little lower than actual. This is with a private and instrument
rating, and the instrument is usually good for a discount.
The quote is also for a hangered RV-10.
$160K hull value full coverage $3,357 from AIG, requires 5 hours
dual and 10 hours solo. Reduced limits during the flyoff.
$160K hull value full coverage $6,850 from Global, requires 10
hours dual with Mike Seager in ANOTHER RV-10 prior to solo
operation of my RV-10. ** Interesting that they specified
exactly who the transition trainer must be.
It's also interesting to note that if I were to fly off the time,
and then apply for the insurance, the quote would likely be less,
as I'd have 25 hours in Make and Model, plus in my case I'd have
more HP time.
Just passing along my quoted info.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
With 100-150 EUR being $120-$185USD, I would be very interested,
especially if they were locking and better looking/streamlined then the
ones included in the kit.
Keep us posted, and I would bet you will get many orders. The RV
community on a whole is trustworthy, granted there are some that are
not, but I have luckily been able to avoid them.
Dan
40269
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Henkjan van
der Zouw
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 2:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
Sorry for the somewhat strong words but there still are honest people
around....
www.zme.nl <http://www.zme.nl/>
http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=3Dphzme&project=3D1
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] Namens David McNeill
Verzonden: woensdag 18 januari 2006 2:46
Aan: rv10-list@matronics.com
Onderwerp: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
Other than being pricey; sending the money beyond USA borders is risky ;
Ask the people who have dealt with the Subaru engine supplier in Canada.
----- Original Message -----
From: William <mailto:wcurtis@core.com>
To: RV10-List@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 4:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>Those are awesome. A little pricey but not much when you
>compare it to the total cost of the project, I guess.
=09
Yes, when you consider the total cost of the project it amounts
to only about 1/2 of 1% of the final cost. Percentage wise, this is high
for such a component. Looking at it that way it is small, however US$350
per side, $700 per plane without a lock is a bit pricey IMHO. Maybe door
handles for Mooneys are as pricey, but there is the added burden of
certification. Just as a comparison, a certified Andair fuel valve is
about $300.
=09
I don't doubt that this hardware is of high quality, however
worth it? Some will think so, but I think many will not.
=09
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Message 18
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
I talked to EAA insurance last year and they wanted some ungodly number
of total hours, if I remember . . .
TDT
40025
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillips,
Jack
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 10:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Insurance quote
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack"
<Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
Did you try Falcon Insurance through the EAA? I have the insurance on
my Pietenpol and my RV-4 with them. Their price is comparable to AIG,
but there is no deductible and you are covered in anything you fly (that
you are qualified to fly) up to the value of your hull insurance. I use
the $50,000 coverage on my RV-4 to allow me to fly a friend's 1934
Fairchild 22 and have full insurance coverage.
Also, Falcon only required me to have 2 hours dual in the RV-4.
Jack Phillips
Pietenpol Air Camper NX899JP
Van's RV-4 N18LR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 9:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Insurance quote
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Just wanted to pass on my recent quote. I listed 450 hours TT, which is
a little lower than actual. This is with a private and instrument
rating, and the instrument is usually good for a discount.
The quote is also for a hangered RV-10.
$160K hull value full coverage $3,357 from AIG, requires 5 hours
dual and 10 hours solo. Reduced limits during the flyoff.
$160K hull value full coverage $6,850 from Global, requires 10
hours dual with Mike Seager in ANOTHER RV-10 prior to solo
operation of my RV-10. ** Interesting that they specified
exactly who the transition trainer must be.
It's also interesting to note that if I were to fly off the time,
and then apply for the insurance, the quote would likely be less,
as I'd have 25 hours in Make and Model, plus in my case I'd have
more HP time.
Just passing along my quoted info.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance quote |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
One thing you might want to ask, which I was told when I was shopping
for Builder's Insurance, was that the EAA plan did NOT cover
transportation. In other words, when I was moving my $$$ project by
trailer from garage to hanger, it was not covered. Just what I was told.
-Sean #40303
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
> I talked to EAA insurance last year and they wanted some ungodly number
> of total hours, if I remember . . .
>
> TDT
> 40025
> Do not archive
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillips,
> Jack
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 10:12 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Insurance quote
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack"
> <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
>
> Did you try Falcon Insurance through the EAA? I have the insurance on
> my Pietenpol and my RV-4 with them. Their price is comparable to AIG,
> but there is no deductible and you are covered in anything you fly (that
> you are qualified to fly) up to the value of your hull insurance. I use
> the $50,000 coverage on my RV-4 to allow me to fly a friend's 1934
> Fairchild 22 and have full insurance coverage.
>
> Also, Falcon only required me to have 2 hours dual in the RV-4.
>
> Jack Phillips
> Pietenpol Air Camper NX899JP
> Van's RV-4 N18LR
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 9:29 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Insurance quote
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Just wanted to pass on my recent quote. I listed 450 hours TT, which is
> a little lower than actual. This is with a private and instrument
> rating, and the instrument is usually good for a discount.
> The quote is also for a hangered RV-10.
>
> $160K hull value full coverage $3,357 from AIG, requires 5 hours
> dual and 10 hours solo. Reduced limits during the flyoff.
>
> $160K hull value full coverage $6,850 from Global, requires 10
> hours dual with Mike Seager in ANOTHER RV-10 prior to solo
> operation of my RV-10. ** Interesting that they specified
> exactly who the transition trainer must be.
>
> It's also interesting to note that if I were to fly off the time,
> and then apply for the insurance, the quote would likely be less,
> as I'd have 25 hours in Make and Model, plus in my case I'd have
> more HP time.
>
> Just passing along my quoted info.
>
>
Message 20
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Hey all,
I have attached the PDF documentation which includes the cure times for
Proseal on page 2.
For the 1/2 hour stuff (B1/2), it's 45 hours at 77F, 50% RH.
For the 2 hour stuff (B2), it's 112 hours at 77F, 50% RH
-Jim
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Bill, I wouldn't worry about 3 days for the elevators. If they're
> inside one day or so you should be just fine. FOr the tanks though,
> I'd wait a week.
> do not archive
> Tim
>
>
> Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton"
>> <william@gbta.net>
>>
>> Thanks Deems. That's all I needed to know. I brought the elevators
>> into my house to cure so they re in 70 degree temps. I'll leave them
>> for probably 3 days and check them out.
>>
>> Bill Britton
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 12:43 AM
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Proseal
>>
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>>>
>>> Bill, Pro Seal never gets 'hard' is stays a rubbery-like texture,
>>> but it does get to a point where it is not plyable and is not able
>>> to be deformed without returning to its 'cured' state. the curing
>>> time depends on how much catalyst you mixed with it, how thouroughly
>>> it was mixed, and the temperature in which it cures. If it cured @
>>> room temperature (70 degrees +) I would wait AT LEAST 24 hours
>>> before removing any clamps, and preferrably, 48 hrs. If it cured at
>>> a cooler temperature I would extend the time considerably (e.g. when
>>> leak testing my fuel tanks I waited 3+ weeks to make sure everytning
>>> was cured befor applying any pressure) 9OK so it helped that i had
>>> lots of other things to do in the meantime).
>>>
>>> Deems Davis # 406
>>> Wings
>>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>>
>>> Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
>>>
>>>> My first bout with the proseal went pretty good. Not near as bad
>>>> as I was expecting after some of the conversations on the lists.
>>>> Just one question though. How do I know when it is done
>>>> "curing"??? Does it stay rubbery or does it harden??? I've got
>>>> one trailing edge skin that got a little wavy when edge rolling it
>>>> and I want to be sure the proseal is fully cured before removing
>>>> the clamps from it (don't want the proseal coming loose and letting
>>>> the skin pillow up)
>>>> Sorry for the lame question,
>>>> Bill Britton
>>>> RV-10 Elevators/deburring tailcone
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Insurance quote |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
These numbers suggest that the insurers are being a bit conservative until the
-10 gets a fleet track record. You might also want to get a quote from NationAir
through their VanGuard program, if that is not the source of the quotes
you already have.
For a comparable data point, from NationAir I have not-in-motion hull coverage
at $75K, and $1M liability on my RV-7A for $724/yr.; full in-motion coverage
would make that about $1250/yr. Have 1600 hrs. PIC, high perf endorsement and
instrument rating.
-Dan Masys
> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> Date: 2006/01/18 Wed AM 09:28:30 EST
> To: RV10 <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Insurance quote
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Just wanted to pass on my recent quote. I listed 450 hours TT, which is
> a little lower than actual. This is with a private and instrument
> rating, and the instrument is usually good for a discount.
> The quote is also for a hangered RV-10.
>
> $160K hull value full coverage $3,357 from AIG, requires 5 hours
> dual and 10 hours solo. Reduced limits during the flyoff.
>
> $160K hull value full coverage $6,850 from Global, requires 10
> hours dual with Mike Seager in ANOTHER RV-10 prior to solo
> operation of my RV-10. ** Interesting that they specified
> exactly who the transition trainer must be.
>
> It's also interesting to note that if I were to fly off the time,
> and then apply for the insurance, the quote would likely be less,
> as I'd have 25 hours in Make and Model, plus in my case I'd have
> more HP time.
>
> Just passing along my quoted info.
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I went with ground and taxi from AIG at 2100.00 year. With 250 total
hours and 100+ hours in the 10 and no instrument rating. My quote for
full flight was bout 3100.00 for 150,000 coverage. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 7:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Insurance quote
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
One thing you might want to ask, which I was told when I was shopping
for Builder's Insurance, was that the EAA plan did NOT cover
transportation. In other words, when I was moving my $$$ project by
trailer from garage to hanger, it was not covered. Just what I was
told.
-Sean #40303
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
<Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
> I talked to EAA insurance last year and they wanted some ungodly
number
> of total hours, if I remember . . .
>
> TDT
> 40025
> Do not archive
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillips,
> Jack
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 10:12 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Insurance quote
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack"
> <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
>
> Did you try Falcon Insurance through the EAA? I have the insurance on
> my Pietenpol and my RV-4 with them. Their price is comparable to AIG,
> but there is no deductible and you are covered in anything you fly
(that
> you are qualified to fly) up to the value of your hull insurance. I
use
> the $50,000 coverage on my RV-4 to allow me to fly a friend's 1934
> Fairchild 22 and have full insurance coverage.
>
> Also, Falcon only required me to have 2 hours dual in the RV-4.
>
> Jack Phillips
> Pietenpol Air Camper NX899JP
> Van's RV-4 N18LR
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 9:29 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Insurance quote
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Just wanted to pass on my recent quote. I listed 450 hours TT, which
is
> a little lower than actual. This is with a private and instrument
> rating, and the instrument is usually good for a discount.
> The quote is also for a hangered RV-10.
>
> $160K hull value full coverage $3,357 from AIG, requires 5 hours
> dual and 10 hours solo. Reduced limits during the flyoff.
>
> $160K hull value full coverage $6,850 from Global, requires 10
> hours dual with Mike Seager in ANOTHER RV-10 prior to solo
> operation of my RV-10. ** Interesting that they specified
> exactly who the transition trainer must be.
>
> It's also interesting to note that if I were to fly off the time,
> and then apply for the insurance, the quote would likely be less,
> as I'd have 25 hours in Make and Model, plus in my case I'd have
> more HP time.
>
> Just passing along my quoted info.
>
>
Message 23
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
The real difference is hull value and 2 more folks in the seats. I got a
quote for 50,000 for the 10 at 1500.00 or so. If you ask for 150,000 on
your 7 the price will climb to almost double. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 8:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Insurance quote
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
These numbers suggest that the insurers are being a bit conservative
until the -10 gets a fleet track record. You might also want to get a
quote from NationAir through their VanGuard program, if that is not the
source of the quotes you already have.
For a comparable data point, from NationAir I have not-in-motion hull
coverage at $75K, and $1M liability on my RV-7A for $724/yr.; full
in-motion coverage would make that about $1250/yr. Have 1600 hrs. PIC,
high perf endorsement and instrument rating.
-Dan Masys
> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> Date: 2006/01/18 Wed AM 09:28:30 EST
> To: RV10 <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Insurance quote
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Just wanted to pass on my recent quote. I listed 450 hours TT, which
is
> a little lower than actual. This is with a private and instrument
> rating, and the instrument is usually good for a discount.
> The quote is also for a hangered RV-10.
>
> $160K hull value full coverage $3,357 from AIG, requires 5 hours
> dual and 10 hours solo. Reduced limits during the flyoff.
>
> $160K hull value full coverage $6,850 from Global, requires 10
> hours dual with Mike Seager in ANOTHER RV-10 prior to solo
> operation of my RV-10. ** Interesting that they specified
> exactly who the transition trainer must be.
>
> It's also interesting to note that if I were to fly off the time,
> and then apply for the insurance, the quote would likely be less,
> as I'd have 25 hours in Make and Model, plus in my case I'd have
> more HP time.
>
> Just passing along my quoted info.
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
Those numbers are comparable for my RV-4. I have $50,000 full hull
insurance and $1 Million Liability. I have 1100 hours PIC, 900 hours
tailwheel time and instrument rating. My insurance costs $1350 per year
through Falcon/EAA. Of course, the RV-4 has a long track record. My
Pietenpol, which is worth about $15,000, costs almost as much because it
is wood and fabric, and there are very few of them flying. Its
insurance is over $1,000 per year. Insurance companies thrive on
statistics and if there aren't enough of a type flying, they get very
conservative.
Jack Phillips
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 11:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Insurance quote
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
These numbers suggest that the insurers are being a bit conservative
until the -10 gets a fleet track record. You might also want to get a
quote from NationAir through their VanGuard program, if that is not the
source of the quotes you already have.
For a comparable data point, from NationAir I have not-in-motion hull
coverage at $75K, and $1M liability on my RV-7A for $724/yr.; full
in-motion coverage would make that about $1250/yr. Have 1600 hrs. PIC,
high perf endorsement and instrument rating.
-Dan Masys
> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> Date: 2006/01/18 Wed AM 09:28:30 EST
> To: RV10 <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Insurance quote
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Just wanted to pass on my recent quote. I listed 450 hours TT, which
is
> a little lower than actual. This is with a private and instrument
> rating, and the instrument is usually good for a discount.
> The quote is also for a hangered RV-10.
>
> $160K hull value full coverage $3,357 from AIG, requires 5 hours
> dual and 10 hours solo. Reduced limits during the flyoff.
>
> $160K hull value full coverage $6,850 from Global, requires 10
> hours dual with Mike Seager in ANOTHER RV-10 prior to solo
> operation of my RV-10. ** Interesting that they specified
> exactly who the transition trainer must be.
>
> It's also interesting to note that if I were to fly off the time,
> and then apply for the insurance, the quote would likely be less,
> as I'd have 25 hours in Make and Model, plus in my case I'd have
> more HP time.
>
> Just passing along my quoted info.
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
Keep up the good work. I see that from your builder's log that you have
come up with some other ideas like the spacer between the elevator horn,
Though it has been awhile I remember that one as being no fun and your
idea sounds much better. I have finished my wings and Tailcone and have
got a good Start on my Fuselage. My website is at www.etigerrr.com
<http://www.etigerrr.com/>
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 8:14 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
With 100-150 EUR being $120-$185USD, I would be very interested,
especially if they were locking and better looking/streamlined then the
ones included in the kit.
Keep us posted, and I would bet you will get many orders. The RV
community on a whole is trustworthy, granted there are some that are
not, but I have luckily been able to avoid them.
Dan
40269
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Henkjan van
der Zouw
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 2:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
Sorry for the somewhat strong words but there still are honest people
around..
www.zme.nl <http://www.zme.nl/>
http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=phzme
<http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=phzme&project=1> &project=1
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] Namens David McNeill
Verzonden: woensdag 18 januari 2006 2:46
Aan: rv10-list@matronics.com
Onderwerp: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
Other than being pricey; sending the money beyond USA borders is risky ;
Ask the people who have dealt with the Subaru engine supplier in Canada.
----- Original Message -----
From: William <mailto:wcurtis@core.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 4:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>Those are awesome. A little pricey but not much when you
>compare it to the total cost of the project, I guess.
Yes, when you consider the total cost of the project it amounts to only
about 1/2 of 1% of the final cost. Percentage wise, this is high for
such a component. Looking at it that way it is small, however US$350 per
side, $700 per plane without a lock is a bit pricey IMHO. Maybe door
handles for Mooneys are as pricey, but there is the added burden of
certification. Just as a comparison, a certified Andair fuel valve is
about $300.
I don't doubt that this hardware is of high quality, however worth it?
Some will think so, but I think many will not.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Message 26
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Another data point: when dealing with builder's risk insurance I had no
issues the first year. When renewal time came last summer Nationair
quoted a huge price increase (Phoenix stopped writing policies) and was
difficult to deal with. Interestingly I switched to another broker and
got a significantly lower quote for the same coverage from the same
companies. I never spent the time to figure out why the difference. My
conclusion was that Nationair was unwilling and/or unable to work
through the issue at the time.
Lesson learned: you might get different quotes via different brokers,
even though it's not supposed to work that way. I did have to execute a
Broker of Record letter for the new broker, but that was all it took.
Tim may not have this issue because he's got an existing relationship
because of his Beech, but anybody else...
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Insurance quote
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
These numbers suggest that the insurers are being a bit conservative
until the -10 gets a fleet track record. You might also want to get a
quote from NationAir through their VanGuard program, if that is not the
source of the quotes you already have.
For a comparable data point, from NationAir I have not-in-motion hull
coverage at $75K, and $1M liability on my RV-7A for $724/yr.; full
in-motion coverage would make that about $1250/yr. Have 1600 hrs. PIC,
high perf endorsement and instrument rating.
-Dan Masys
> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> Date: 2006/01/18 Wed AM 09:28:30 EST
> To: RV10 <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Insurance quote
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Just wanted to pass on my recent quote. I listed 450 hours TT, which
is
> a little lower than actual. This is with a private and instrument
> rating, and the instrument is usually good for a discount.
> The quote is also for a hangered RV-10.
>
> $160K hull value full coverage $3,357 from AIG, requires 5 hours
> dual and 10 hours solo. Reduced limits during the flyoff.
>
> $160K hull value full coverage $6,850 from Global, requires 10
> hours dual with Mike Seager in ANOTHER RV-10 prior to solo
> operation of my RV-10. ** Interesting that they specified
> exactly who the transition trainer must be.
>
> It's also interesting to note that if I were to fly off the time,
> and then apply for the insurance, the quote would likely be less,
> as I'd have 25 hours in Make and Model, plus in my case I'd have
> more HP time.
>
> Just passing along my quoted info.
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Insurance quote |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That also accounts for the difference between mine and Randy's original
full coverage. His was 150K hull at $3,1XX, mine was 160K hull at
$3,3XX. My quotes were from NationAir, by the way. After talking to
them, it's apparent that between the very few insurers that we'll be
looking at, that the agency itself doesn't have much to do with
the price of the quote. Also, I'm an AOPA Member, so the quote I
got from at least AIG included the AOPA discount in it too....you
don't have to use AOPA insurance agency to get that.
I'm really leaning towards doing what Randy did and going with
Taxi and Groun only...and even then waiting for the flyoff time
to be done unless I can easily get the transition training. There
aren't many good options for that yet. Oregon isn't easy to
get good weather in this time of year, and I'm not too hot on
going to Texas.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> The real difference is hull value and 2 more folks in the seats. I got a
> quote for 50,000 for the 10 at 1500.00 or so. If you ask for 150,000 on
> your 7 the price will climb to almost double. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 8:10 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Insurance quote
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
>
> These numbers suggest that the insurers are being a bit conservative
> until the -10 gets a fleet track record. You might also want to get a
> quote from NationAir through their VanGuard program, if that is not the
> source of the quotes you already have.
>
> For a comparable data point, from NationAir I have not-in-motion hull
> coverage at $75K, and $1M liability on my RV-7A for $724/yr.; full
> in-motion coverage would make that about $1250/yr. Have 1600 hrs. PIC,
> high perf endorsement and instrument rating.
>
> -Dan Masys
>
>
>>From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>Date: 2006/01/18 Wed AM 09:28:30 EST
>>To: RV10 <RV10-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: RV10-List: Insurance quote
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>Just wanted to pass on my recent quote. I listed 450 hours TT, which
>
> is
>
>>a little lower than actual. This is with a private and instrument
>>rating, and the instrument is usually good for a discount.
>>The quote is also for a hangered RV-10.
>>
>>$160K hull value full coverage $3,357 from AIG, requires 5 hours
>>dual and 10 hours solo. Reduced limits during the flyoff.
>>
>>$160K hull value full coverage $6,850 from Global, requires 10
>>hours dual with Mike Seager in ANOTHER RV-10 prior to solo
>>operation of my RV-10. ** Interesting that they specified
>>exactly who the transition trainer must be.
>>
>>It's also interesting to note that if I were to fly off the time,
>>and then apply for the insurance, the quote would likely be less,
>>as I'd have 25 hours in Make and Model, plus in my case I'd have
>>more HP time.
>>
>>Just passing along my quoted info.
>>
>>--
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
Point well taken about shopping around about any form of insurance. Never had
builder's insurance, so can't comment on what might be going on with insurers
for that type.
I can say that with the first annual NationAir renewal of my policy after the airplane
started flying, the insurance premium dropped from $760 to $724. So I
guess occasionally insurance goes down rather than up.
-Dan Masys
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Another data point: when dealing with builder's risk insurance I had no
> issues the first year. When renewal time came last summer Nationair
> quoted a huge price increase (Phoenix stopped writing policies) and was
> difficult to deal with. Interestingly I switched to another broker and
> got a significantly lower quote for the same coverage from the same
> companies. I never spent the time to figure out why the difference. My
> conclusion was that Nationair was unwilling and/or unable to work
> through the issue at the time.
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
I know the once lost money up to 30 k$ with a Subaru supplier in the
state of WA or with Stoddard Hamilton, or Skystar, or the Express
builder etc.
All companies located in the US!!
do not archive
David McNeill wrote:
> Other than being pricey; sending the money beyond USA borders is risky
> ; Ask the people who have dealt with the Subaru engine supplier in Canada.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* William <mailto:wcurtis@core.com>
> *To:* RV10-List@matronics.com <mailto:RV10-List@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 17, 2006 4:28 PM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
> >Those are awesome. A little pricey but not much when you
> >compare it to the total cost of the project, I guess.
>
> Yes, when you consider the total cost of the project it amounts to
> only about 1/2 of 1% of the final cost. Percentage wise, this is
> high for such a component. Looking at it that way it is small,
> however US$350 per side, $700 per plane without a lock is a bit
> pricey IMHO. Maybe door handles for Mooneys are as pricey, but
> there is the added burden of certification. Just as a comparison,
> a certified Andair fuel valve is about $300.
>
> I don't doubt that this hardware is of high quality, however worth
> it? Some will think so, but I think many will not.
>
> William Curtis
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
I am interested.
Doug Preston
40372
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Pitot lines - paper of plastic? |
I am about to run the line to my heated pitot tube (Falcon tube) and want to
know if you guys recommend using aluminum or plastic lines to the wing root.
What are the pros and cons of each? I think I will probably run plastic from
the root to the panel. Also what connectors do I want to be using for both
the aluminum tube and plastic tube and what plastic tube should I order?
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on QB fuse
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Trim change during flap extension |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ted on RV list" <ted_french@telus.net>
Listers
On my RV-6 I added two relays that operated when the flap motor was running.
One trimmed nose up, the other ran the trim nose down to compensate for the
tendency for the flaps to cause a trim change. They worked very well to
cancel out trim changes caused from the flaps being operated.
My question is... would this be useful on the RV-10. For those who are
flying, do youn experience a significant trim change when the flaps are
operated.
Ted French
RV-10 fuselage
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Drill hole in Flap Motor |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
A 1/16" hole needs to be drilled through the upper lip of the flap motor
to accept safety wire. Any hints or tips on the best way to do this?
Larry Rosen
#40356
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Are you sure you want the left hand door as the only operable from
outside??? there are scenarios where in a crash it may be necessary for
someone externally to open the right hand door for rescue
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 6:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
>
> I also will take one. The passenger door will only be opened from the
> inside.
>
> Bob K
> 40125 working on fuselage, finish kit ordered
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 5:20 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
>
> Go for it, Henkjan. In an Internet-enabled global economy, if you "build
> a
> better mousetrap" and sell it at a reasonable price, word spreads very
> quickly. And the community of talented RV builders has no geopolitical
> boundaries.
>
> Seems to me that, in their drive to make things simple, Van's made those
> door handles a little too simple. They just look plain ugly and out of
> character with the rest of the technology in the airframe. If you've got
> a
> more elegant locking design for the price you mention, count me in.
>
> -Dan Masys
> 70238 and 40448
> Tailcone done; QB fuse and wings arrive next week.
>
>
>> From: "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan@zme.nl>
>> Date: 2006/01/18 Wed AM 02:38:33 EST
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>>
>> I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
>> messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
>> from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
>> builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
>> because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
>> problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
>> of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
>> having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
>> contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>>
>>
>>
>> Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>>
>
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Fuel Senders, Gauges, Accuracy |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Jim,
We are using the floats, but are using a Dynon EMS to monitor the tanks
through the floats. When you calibrate the Dynon, they have you put in a
gallon or two at a time and it gets the new reading from the float. Having
done it this way, and having a fuel flow meter to check, and a history of
filling the tanks and using exactly what the fuel flow said we had burned,
the floats are almost always accurate within a gallon or two. Couldn't help
any on actual gauges, though. I wouldn't even consider putting a non-EMS
(read - individual gauges for monitoring engine and fuel) in a plane like
this anyway.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 6:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Senders, Gauges, Accuracy
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Hi all!
Hopefully someone can give me some answers to an issue an RV-8
builder informed me of. Specifically, his tank holds 22 Gallons, he uses
15 gallons before the fuel gauge reads half. Since I don't have a gauge,
and I am about to put the rear baffle on, I'd like to get half to be as
close to half as possible!
Questions:
1. Anyone already built; With 15 Gallons in your tank:
A) What is the resistance of your sending unit?
B) What does your gauge read (half, 3/4, 1/4?)?
2. Anyone that has a gauge and the sending unit:
A) What resistance makes the gauge read:
a) 1/4
b) 1/2
c) 3/4
d) Full
Many thanks for replies!
-Jim 40384
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | center console access |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
David,
We actually have cut the tunnel covers in two places, but one is forward of
the panel and hidden by our breaker/switch console (we had to have a place
to run wires down into the tunnel) and the other is between the seats under
our arm rest (again, mainly to run cables for headsets and rear seat power).
I think the rear section of the back panel can be removed without removing
the seats and both of the front sections can be removed.
Speaking of which, is it not annoying to anyone else that you have to remove
the flap control rod cover to remove the seats? About another 1/2" would
make the difference. That drives me crazy, as we have had to remove the
seat a number of times to add stuff under the panel (a guy my size doesn't
fit under the panel without removing the seat - if I want to be able to walk
afterwards).
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 6:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: center console access
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Anyone addressed the problem of removal of the center tunnel access after
the seats are in place. As the design currently exists, removing the center
covers requires removing the front seats to inspect the center tunnel.
clearance for four fasteners is grossly insufficient as designed.
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pitot lines - paper of plastic? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
I put the Gretz heated pitot in my -7, the instructions for which say you at least
need to have 6-8 inches of aluminum tubing close to the pitot, to reduce the
risk of plastic tubing melting from the heat. I thought it would be much more
'aviation quality' to run aluminum tubing all the way to the wing root, and
put a flared fitting there for both pitot and static lines. Turns out all of
that has been a constant nuisance and too complex for maintain easily. Now
I think the way to go is to just thread a continous run of plastic tubing for
the pitot all the way from behind the instrument panel out to a single union that
joins it to a little stub of aluminum tubing attached to the pitot. Forget
about fittings at the wing root. Any more than a minimal number of joints in
the line is just a leakage problem waiting to haunt you at transponder certification
time.
Just my $0.02. But on the list of "Things I'll do differently on my second kitplane."
-Dan Masys
>
> From: "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
> Date: 2006/01/18 Wed PM 02:11:54 EST
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Pitot lines - paper of plastic?
>
> I am about to run the line to my heated pitot tube (Falcon tube) and want to
> know if you guys recommend using aluminum or plastic lines to the wing root.
> What are the pros and cons of each? I think I will probably run plastic from
> the root to the panel. Also what connectors do I want to be using for both
> the aluminum tube and plastic tube and what plastic tube should I order?
>
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Working on QB fuse
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pitot lines - paper of plastic? |
IMHO, you should take a look at how long you plan on keeping the bird in
question. ALL plastic will deteriorate over time, faster in hot or
drier climates. See how easy it is to replace and make your decision.
Plastic has the ability to be routed easily, the aluminum doesn't
(relatively) ..... however, the aluminum will be there looong after the
plastic is gone!!!
Linn
do not archive
John Testement wrote:
> I am about to run the line to my heated pitot tube (Falcon tube) and
> want to know if you guys recommend using aluminum or plastic lines to
> the wing root. What are the pros and cons of each? I think I will
> probably run plastic from the root to the panel. Also what connectors
> do I want to be using for both the aluminum tube and plastic tube and
> what plastic tube should I order?
>
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
> 40321
> Working on QB fuse
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pitot lines - paper of plastic? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
If running aluminum all the way to the wing root, what type of fitting
is used to transition from aluminum to plastic?
Gonna have to do this soon also.
-Sean #40303
linn walters wrote:
> IMHO, you should take a look at how long you plan on keeping the bird
> in question. ALL plastic will deteriorate over time, faster in hot or
> drier climates. See how easy it is to replace and make your
> decision. Plastic has the ability to be routed easily, the aluminum
> doesn't (relatively) ..... however, the aluminum will be there looong
> after the plastic is gone!!!
> Linn
>
> do not archive
> John Testement wrote:
>> I am about to run the line to my heated pitot tube (Falcon tube) and
>> want to know if you guys recommend using aluminum or plastic lines to
>> the wing root. What are the pros and cons of each? I think I will
>> probably run plastic from the root to the panel. Also what connectors
>> do I want to be using for both the aluminum tube and plastic tube and
>> what plastic tube should I order?
>>
>>
>> John Testement
>> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
>> 40321
>> Working on QB fuse
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pitot lines - paper of plastic? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
My Mooney has the original poly lines that carry vacuum for the Brittain
wing leveler. No signs of deterioration in a 40 year old, 6000 hour
airframe. Whatever variety they chose is very flexible and durable. They
used red and green, matching the nav lights for the wing servo the line
goes to.
Do Not Archive
linn walters said:
> IMHO, you should take a look at how long you plan on keeping the bird in
> question. ALL plastic will deteriorate over time, faster in hot or
> drier climates. See how easy it is to replace and make your decision.
> Plastic has the ability to be routed easily, the aluminum doesn't
> (relatively) ..... however, the aluminum will be there looong after the
> plastic is gone!!!
> Linn
>
> do not archive
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pitot lines - paper of plastic? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
I'd use a bulkhead fitting or a union. You can get reducer unions that
will step down to an aluminum size that you can slip the plastic tubing
over. Peruse the fitting pages in the Aircraft Spruce catalog. One
poster said to run one plastic line all the way from the pitot tube
(with suitable aluminum extension ;-) ) all the way to the instrument
panel. That would be OK as long as you left a 'service loop' in the
wing root so you can splice the plastic tubing back together after wing
removal. I get my plastic tubing and fittings in the aircraft section
of Ace .... they have the best selection of fittings locally ...... and
less expensive too. With plastic there's an 'extra' joint at the pitot
tube ...... but whether you go with plastic or aluminum, the joints
should still be air-tight if the aluminum tubing is flared correctly
..... which means using an aircraft flaring tool, not one from the
plumbing supply place!!!
Linn
Sean Stephens wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> If running aluminum all the way to the wing root, what type of fitting
> is used to transition from aluminum to plastic?
>
> Gonna have to do this soon also.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> linn walters wrote:
>
>> IMHO, you should take a look at how long you plan on keeping the bird
>> in question. ALL plastic will deteriorate over time, faster in hot
>> or drier climates. See how easy it is to replace and make your
>> decision. Plastic has the ability to be routed easily, the aluminum
>> doesn't (relatively) ..... however, the aluminum will be there looong
>> after the plastic is gone!!!
>> Linn
>>
>> do not archive
>> John Testement wrote:
>>
>>> I am about to run the line to my heated pitot tube (Falcon tube) and
>>> want to know if you guys recommend using aluminum or plastic lines
>>> to the wing root. What are the pros and cons of each? I think I will
>>> probably run plastic from the root to the panel. Also what
>>> connectors do I want to be using for both the aluminum tube and
>>> plastic tube and what plastic tube should I order?
>>>
>>>
>>> John Testement
>>> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
>>> 40321
>>> Working on QB fuse
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 1/16/06
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
--
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pitot lines - paper of plastic? |
Cool! I like the idea of colored tubing. You're way ahead of the
game. I have issues with tubing installed on my 30 year old Grumman
AA-1B. I just replaced the lines with Ace tubing .... it'll last longer
than I will!!!
Linn
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
>
>My Mooney has the original poly lines that carry vacuum for the Brittain
>wing leveler. No signs of deterioration in a 40 year old, 6000 hour
>airframe. Whatever variety they chose is very flexible and durable. They
>used red and green, matching the nav lights for the wing servo the line
>goes to.
>Do Not Archive
>
>linn walters said:
>
>
>>IMHO, you should take a look at how long you plan on keeping the bird in
>>question. ALL plastic will deteriorate over time, faster in hot or
>>drier climates. See how easy it is to replace and make your decision.
>>Plastic has the ability to be routed easily, the aluminum doesn't
>>(relatively) ..... however, the aluminum will be there looong after the
>>plastic is gone!!!
>>Linn
>>
>>do not archive
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 43
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|
Does anyone know what kind of a tow bar we can use to move the RV-10 around
once all the nose gear fairings are installed? Or do nose gear RVs just get
pushed/pulled around by the prop?
Jim
40134 - Finishing kit
Message 44
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| Subject: | center console access |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I AGREE Jesse! Removing the panels to get the seat out is a pain. Let
me know if you come up with a easy solution and I will do the same.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: center console access
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
David,
We actually have cut the tunnel covers in two places, but one is forward
of
the panel and hidden by our breaker/switch console (we had to have a
place
to run wires down into the tunnel) and the other is between the seats
under
our arm rest (again, mainly to run cables for headsets and rear seat
power).
I think the rear section of the back panel can be removed without
removing
the seats and both of the front sections can be removed.
Speaking of which, is it not annoying to anyone else that you have to
remove
the flap control rod cover to remove the seats? About another 1/2"
would
make the difference. That drives me crazy, as we have had to remove the
seat a number of times to add stuff under the panel (a guy my size
doesn't
fit under the panel without removing the seat - if I want to be able to
walk
afterwards).
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it
has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 6:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: center console access
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Anyone addressed the problem of removal of the center tunnel access
after
the seats are in place. As the design currently exists, removing the
center
covers requires removing the front seats to inspect the center tunnel.
clearance for four fasteners is grossly insufficient as designed.
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | Pitot lines - paper of plastic? |
Personally, I am running SafeAir's tubing all the way to the pitot and the static
heads. Can't remember what it's made of but it is plastic. They use the
exact same tubing that is used for air brake lines so I'm guessing that they
will be more than sufficient. I mainly went with theirs because it came with
all of the connectors along with static ports.
If I had to do it again I would probably just use 1/4" polyethylene tubing that
you can get from any home improvement store. PEX (polyethylene) tubing, and
it's fast on connectors, are more than adequate and I have yet to have a leak
in one with water pressures around 100psi. Not to mention it is now being used
as primary water lines in homes and is more commonly used as the hot glycol
tubing in radiant concrete floors.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Pitot lines - paper of plastic?
I am about to run the line to my heated pitot tube (Falcon tube) and want to know
if you guys recommend using aluminum or plastic lines to the wing root. What
are the pros and cons of each? I think I will probably run plastic from the
root to the panel. Also what connectors do I want to be using for both the aluminum
tube and plastic tube and what plastic tube should I order?
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on QB fuse
Message 46
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|
I use the prop 80% of the time but you will need a tow bar as well. I
bought mine at Aircraft Spruce. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JSMcGrew@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 3:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Tow Bar
Does anyone know what kind of a tow bar we can use to move the RV-10
around once all the nose gear fairings are installed? Or do nose gear
RVs just get pushed/pulled around by the prop?
Jim
40134 - Finishing kit
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Drill hole in Flap Motor |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Easy to do. Start strait in until you can angle the drill with out it
slipping. Drill in about 1/2 way. Then stop and come in from the other
side. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 12:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Drill hole in Flap Motor
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
A 1/16" hole needs to be drilled through the upper lip of the flap motor
to accept safety wire. Any hints or tips on the best way to do this?
Larry Rosen
#40356
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Fuel Senders, Gauges, Accuracy |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I have the same experience with the ACS2500. The fuel in the tanks is
right on compared to the gauges. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:45 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Senders, Gauges, Accuracy
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Jim,
We are using the floats, but are using a Dynon EMS to monitor the tanks
through the floats. When you calibrate the Dynon, they have you put in
a
gallon or two at a time and it gets the new reading from the float.
Having
done it this way, and having a fuel flow meter to check, and a history
of
filling the tanks and using exactly what the fuel flow said we had
burned,
the floats are almost always accurate within a gallon or two. Couldn't
help
any on actual gauges, though. I wouldn't even consider putting a
non-EMS
(read - individual gauges for monitoring engine and fuel) in a plane
like
this anyway.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it
has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 6:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Senders, Gauges, Accuracy
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Hi all!
Hopefully someone can give me some answers to an issue an RV-8
builder informed me of. Specifically, his tank holds 22 Gallons, he uses
15 gallons before the fuel gauge reads half. Since I don't have a gauge,
and I am about to put the rear baffle on, I'd like to get half to be as
close to half as possible!
Questions:
1. Anyone already built; With 15 Gallons in your tank:
A) What is the resistance of your sending unit?
B) What does your gauge read (half, 3/4, 1/4?)?
2. Anyone that has a gauge and the sending unit:
A) What resistance makes the gauge read:
a) 1/4
b) 1/2
c) 3/4
d) Full
Many thanks for replies!
-Jim 40384
Message 49
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|
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
Message 50
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|
| Subject: | Re: Drill hole in Flap Motor |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Thanks Randy.
I was hung up trying to make it straight, but that is not required since
it is for the safety wire.
Larry
Do Not Archive
Randy DeBauw wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
>Easy to do. Start strait in until you can angle the drill with out it
>slipping. Drill in about 1/2 way. Then stop and come in from the other
>side. Randy
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
>Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 12:51 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Drill hole in Flap Motor
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
>A 1/16" hole needs to be drilled through the upper lip of the flap motor
>
>to accept safety wire. Any hints or tips on the best way to do this?
>
>Larry Rosen
>#40356
><http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 51
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|
| Subject: | The ultimate door latch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
If the crash is that bad then they can use a battle axe to get in the left
door.
Bob K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Are you sure you want the left hand door as the only operable from
outside??? there are scenarios where in a crash it may be necessary for
someone externally to open the right hand door for rescue
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 6:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
>
> I also will take one. The passenger door will only be opened from the
> inside.
>
> Bob K
> 40125 working on fuselage, finish kit ordered
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 5:20 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
>
> Go for it, Henkjan. In an Internet-enabled global economy, if you "build
> a
> better mousetrap" and sell it at a reasonable price, word spreads very
> quickly. And the community of talented RV builders has no geopolitical
> boundaries.
>
> Seems to me that, in their drive to make things simple, Van's made those
> door handles a little too simple. They just look plain ugly and out of
> character with the rest of the technology in the airframe. If you've got
> a
> more elegant locking design for the price you mention, count me in.
>
> -Dan Masys
> 70238 and 40448
> Tailcone done; QB fuse and wings arrive next week.
>
>
>> From: "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan@zme.nl>
>> Date: 2006/01/18 Wed AM 02:38:33 EST
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>>
>> I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
>> messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
>> from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
>> builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
>> because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
>> problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
>> of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
>> having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
>> contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>>
>>
>>
>> Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>>
>
>
>
Message 52
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| Subject: | The ultimate door latch |
Right door only LOCKABLE from the inside, or only OPERABLE from the inside?
TDT
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of bob.kaufmann
Sent: Wed 1/18/2006 7:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: The ultimate door latch
--> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
If the crash is that bad then they can use a battle axe to get in the left
door.
Bob K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Are you sure you want the left hand door as the only operable from
outside??? there are scenarios where in a crash it may be necessary for
someone externally to open the right hand door for rescue
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 6:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
>
> I also will take one. The passenger door will only be opened from the
> inside.
>
> Bob K
> 40125 working on fuselage, finish kit ordered
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 5:20 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
>
> Go for it, Henkjan. In an Internet-enabled global economy, if you "build
> a
> better mousetrap" and sell it at a reasonable price, word spreads very
> quickly. And the community of talented RV builders has no geopolitical
> boundaries.
>
> Seems to me that, in their drive to make things simple, Van's made those
> door handles a little too simple. They just look plain ugly and out of
> character with the rest of the technology in the airframe. If you've got
> a
> more elegant locking design for the price you mention, count me in.
>
> -Dan Masys
> 70238 and 40448
> Tailcone done; QB fuse and wings arrive next week.
>
>
>> From: "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan@zme.nl>
>> Date: 2006/01/18 Wed AM 02:38:33 EST
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>>
>> I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
>> messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
>> from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
>> builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
>> because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
>> problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
>> of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
>> having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
>> contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>>
>>
>>
>> Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>>
>
>
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 53
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|
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
I think what everyone need to admit is that the basic problem is that we all
NEED to have door locks no matter what country one lives in. What does that
say!!!!!
There are people everywhere in this world that have sub par moral values.
Lets agree on that. The bottom line...we are all human beings, we are all
brothers and sisters. Those who think diffferently need to get inside their
RV 10s, lock the door and throw away the key.
I have never had problems sending money over seas, Germany, Lithuania,
Holland. I have sent a lot more money overseas more than the cost of the
car, bicycle, skateboard, etc. that were stolen from me here in the states.
I am not a bleeding heart liberal, just a realist.
J Gonzalez, 40409
Malibu, California
>From: "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan@zme.nl>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 08:38:33 +0100
>
>I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
>messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
>from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
>builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
>because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
>problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
>of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
>having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
>contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>
>
>Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>
>
>Sorry for the somewhat strong words but there still are honest people
>around..
>
>
>www.zme.nl <http://www.zme.nl/>
>
>
>http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=phzme
><http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=phzme&project=1> &project=1
>
>
>-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
>Van: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] Namens David McNeill
>Verzonden: woensdag 18 januari 2006 2:46
>Aan: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Onderwerp: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
>
>Other than being pricey; sending the money beyond USA borders is risky ;
>Ask the people who have dealt with the Subaru engine supplier in Canada.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
>From: William <mailto:wcurtis@core.com>
>
>To: RV10-List@matronics.com
>
>Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 4:28 PM
>
>Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
>
> >Those are awesome. A little pricey but not much when you
> >compare it to the total cost of the project, I guess.
>
>Yes, when you consider the total cost of the project it amounts to only
>about 1/2 of 1% of the final cost. Percentage wise, this is high for
>such a component. Looking at it that way it is small, however US$350 per
>side, $700 per plane without a lock is a bit pricey IMHO. Maybe door
>handles for Mooneys are as pricey, but there is the added burden of
>certification. Just as a comparison, a certified Andair fuel valve is
>about $300.
>
>I don't doubt that this hardware is of high quality, however worth it?
>Some will think so, but I think many will not.
>
>William Curtis
>http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
Message 54
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|
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
If they have it. If there is time before the fire. If....
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 5:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: The ultimate door latch
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
>
> If the crash is that bad then they can use a battle axe to get in the left
> door.
>
> Bob K
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:41 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
>
> Are you sure you want the left hand door as the only operable from
> outside??? there are scenarios where in a crash it may be necessary for
> someone externally to open the right hand door for rescue
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 6:51 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
>>
>> I also will take one. The passenger door will only be opened from the
>> inside.
>>
>> Bob K
>> 40125 working on fuselage, finish kit ordered
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 5:20 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
>>
>> Go for it, Henkjan. In an Internet-enabled global economy, if you "build
>> a
>> better mousetrap" and sell it at a reasonable price, word spreads very
>> quickly. And the community of talented RV builders has no geopolitical
>> boundaries.
>>
>> Seems to me that, in their drive to make things simple, Van's made those
>> door handles a little too simple. They just look plain ugly and out of
>> character with the rest of the technology in the airframe. If you've got
>> a
>> more elegant locking design for the price you mention, count me in.
>>
>> -Dan Masys
>> 70238 and 40448
>> Tailcone done; QB fuse and wings arrive next week.
>>
>>
>>> From: "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan@zme.nl>
>>> Date: 2006/01/18 Wed AM 02:38:33 EST
>>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>>>
>>> I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
>>> messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
>>> from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
>>> builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
>>> because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
>>> problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
>>> of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
>>> having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
>>> contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 55
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot lines - paper of plastic? |
I am using a Cessna heated probe from salvage with newish heating element inside.
It actually had a plastic pipe union on the probe itself and attached was plastic
line. A check of the Cessna parts manual indicated the same. SO I guess
the plastic all the way from the probe is ok in that case, it also specified
18 gauge wire. The Cessna probe is Aluminum. I think I am going to run a small
bit of Al tubing up through the mast and then go tygon all the way to the panel.
Aircraft Spruce seems to have everything required as was said in another post.
-Chris Lucas
#40072
Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: John Testement
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 2:11 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Pitot lines - paper of plastic?
I am about to run the line to my heated pitot tube (Falcon tube) and want to
know if you guys recommend using aluminum or plastic lines to the wing root. What
are the pros and cons of each? I think I will probably run plastic from the
root to the panel. Also what connectors do I want to be using for both the aluminum
tube and plastic tube and what plastic tube should I order?
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on QB fuse
Message 56
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I know the trailing edge of the elevator is supposed to go down 35 degrees.
How much is it supposed to go up ?
Zack
Message 57
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| Subject: | Fire Wall Connectors |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
I like the cord grip fittings. There all listed at mcmaster carr pages
750-752. I've been using them for all my projects with good results.
www.mcmaster.com
steven dinieri
Anyone find a good supplier for high temp, environmentally rated,
vibration rated, firewall circular bulkhead mount connectors? I'm
thinking Amphenol but a little wary of the price per connector ($100+
ea). Any recommendations? We presently have some plastic AMP
connectors but they are only rated to 300 degrees F and are not
environmentally sealed. I'm looking for 16 contacts per circular
connector, #18 wire each. Anyone have any good ideas?
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
Message 58
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|
| Subject: | Corrugated tubing for wire runs |
Some time back there was a thread on running bigger corrugated tubing for wire
runs vs what Vans sells. I heard from John Stewart that NAPA sold some that was
corrugated on the outside and smooth on the inside. I was unable to get my
area NAPA stores to locate it in their catalogs. I did find some at EARL MAY
garden centers. They use it for plumbing ponds/landscaping. It is KINK FREE,
has better temp. range and smooth inside for ease of fishing wires through.
I may try some of the 1/2" I.D. tubing and see how it works although it took me
a few days to locate this size............... difficult to find. The size is
actually metric but they use U.S. measurements so it is slightly larger than
1/2 I.D.
Dean
Closing fuse floors
Some time back there was a thread on running bigger corrugated tubing for wire
runs vs what Vans sells. I heard from John Stewart that NAPA sold some that was
corrugated on the outside and smooth on the inside. I was unable to get my area
NAPA stores to locate it in their catalogs. I did find some at EARL MAY garden
centers. They use it for plumbing ponds/landscaping. It is KINK FREE,has
better temp. rangeand smooth inside for ease of fishing wires through.I may try
some of the 1/2" I.D. tubing and see how it works although it took me a few
days to locate this size............... difficult to find. The size is actually
metric but they use U.S. measurements so it is slightly larger than 1/2 I.D.
Dean
Closing fuse floors
Message 59
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| Subject: | Re: Drill hole in Flap Motor |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Larry,
I have not drilled mine but I have done a lot of these safety wire holes before.
File a small flat where you want the hole to start, center punch the starting
point and drill in vertically just enough to be able to get the drill to start
and hold at a 45 degree angle then finish the hole. I have found that using
the short threaded drill bits work the best because they don't break as easily.
Go slow and let the bit do all the work, if you push even a little it will
snap right off.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
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