Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:21 AM - Re: Gear leg thread (RAS)
2. 01:57 AM - Re: Gear leg thread (Chris , Susie Darcy)
3. 05:12 AM - Re: End of the Spear (Jesse Saint)
4. 06:15 AM - Body Filler (greerdans@aol.com)
5. 07:01 AM - Re: Body Filler (Tim Olson)
6. 10:28 AM - Re: End of the Spear (aj)
7. 10:38 AM - Re: Re: End of the Spear (Sean Stephens)
8. 12:10 PM - Re: Body Filler (Marcus Cooper)
9. 01:37 PM - Re: Re: End of the Spear (Jesse Saint)
10. 06:49 PM - Re: Body Filler (John Gonzalez)
11. 07:49 PM - Longeron holes for rudder pedal support blocks. (Nikolaos Napoli)
12. 08:16 PM - Re: Longeron holes for rudder pedal support blocks. (David McNeill)
13. 08:49 PM - Re: Additional encoder with Chelton (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Gear leg thread |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
There's a service bulletin from Van's that deals with this very subject.
Check the website or contact Van's.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 11:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gear leg thread
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie Darcy"
> <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
>
> Hi all ....one gear leg thread has not been done correctly with the first
> couple of threads not there at all...the other is fine,so the big nut will
> not take at all??
>
> Any ideas??
>
> Chris
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Gear leg thread |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
That's actually for the nuts incorrectly threaded not the gear leg so my
question still stands.
chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gear leg thread
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "RAS"
> <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
>
> There's a service bulletin from Van's that deals with this very subject.
> Check the website or contact Van's.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 11:18 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Gear leg thread
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie Darcy"
>> <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
>>
>> Hi all ....one gear leg thread has not been done correctly with the first
>> couple of threads not there at all...the other is fine,so the big nut
>> will not take at all??
>>
>> Any ideas??
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | End of the Spear |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Well, you'll have to excuse the Garmin antenna. They say not to paint them.
I guess the guys who made the film could have found a way to paint it out,
but I guess they didn't know much about that stuff. I guess that was just a
really early model Garmin 430. :-)
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 11:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: End of the Spear
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Thanks for reminding me Jesse. I haven't been watching enough
commercial TV lately with my head stuck in the project, so I
missed all the TV commercials. I just got back from the movie
now tonight. It was pretty well made, and a good story. It sure
is shows how hard it can be to relate to other cultures when there's
such a divide in beliefs and technologies. The ending of the
movie was pretty powerful with the river scene, for sure.
It was hard to see that little PA-14 take the beating it did.
Oh, and I'm surprised that back in the mid-50's they
had GPS on those little piper cubs....who woulda thunk? ;)
Pass on to your family that we liked it.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Jesse Saint wrote:
> This if off-topic, but has anybody had a chance to see "End of the
> Spear"? The flying is pretty good, although there isn't enough of it in
> there. In the first landing on the beach you can see the right wing of
> the plane brush the treetops as right before he reaches the water. That
> little PA-14 is an incredible plane.
>
>
>
> Just curious.
>
Message 4
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While riveting the Elevator the bucking bar was not positioned correctly over one
of the rivets and I now have a dimple in the skin. (Naturally, the top skin)
Of course, trying to improve it with the rivet gun I made I slightly worse and
it exhibits slight oil canning.
My question is, how well does the body filler work when I get to the finish/painting
stage? Is the filler stiff enough to firm up the dimple so that it won't
oil can? I'd hate to have a situation where it would still oil can and crack
the paint. The dimple is located near where the foam ribs (at the rear spa) are
located so I will be gaining some support internally from the foam and pro seal.....is
this sufficient or should I add a stiffener? If I ad the stiffener
it will make the dimple convex on the skin which I assume will be more difficult
to hide with filler.
Thanks for your help.
George Costigan
Message 5
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I think I'd try to stiffen anything up if you're worried about oil
canning at all. The fillers will maybe help, but like you
said, you'd hate to crack the paint or filler from oil canning.
You might consider just gluing in a stiffner using some
.063 angle, and some proseal. That may be plenty to give it some
added backing, and prevent you from having to dimple/rivet it
again.
Don't worry, yours isn't the only one that will have a few
hidden dings. ;)
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
greerdans@aol.com wrote:
> While riveting the Elevator the bucking bar was not positioned correctly
> over one of the rivets and I now have a dimple in the skin. (Naturally,
> the top skin) Of course, trying to improve it with the rivet gun I
> made I slightly worse and it exhibits slight oil canning.
>
> My question is, how well does the body filler work when I get to the
> finish/painting stage? Is the filler stiff enough to firm up the dimple
> so that it won't oil can? I'd hate to have a situation where it would
> still oil can and crack the paint. The dimple is located near where the
> foam ribs (at the rear spa) are located so I will be gaining some
> support internally from the foam and pro seal.....is this sufficient or
> should I add a stiffener? If I ad the stiffener it will make the dimple
> convex on the skin which I assume will be more difficult to hide with
> filler.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> George Costigan
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: End of the Spear |
--> RV10-List message posted by: aj <ajhauter@yahoo.com>
Jesse,
I saw it yesterday. It is now on my all time best movie list. Very moving, what
a heritage your family has. You must be very proud of the sacrifices your
Grandfather and Father made and what a transforming story about the Wadoni.
The PA-14 looks like an impressive bush plane, don't you think the Bearhawk would
serve that mission similarly, probably better STOL and load carrying? I think
the rv-10 could as well, but would probably need some considerable gear beef-up
and I'm not sure the low-wing would not serve too well on rugged strips.
best regards,
aj
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: End of the Spear |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Jesse,
So, before I go see the movie, Nate is your Grandfather and Steve your
father?
-Sean
aj wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: aj <ajhauter@yahoo.com>
>
> Jesse,
>
> I saw it yesterday. It is now on my all time best movie list. Very moving,
what a heritage your family has. You must be very proud of the sacrifices your
Grandfather and Father made and what a transforming story about the Wadoni.
>
> The PA-14 looks like an impressive bush plane, don't you think the Bearhawk would
serve that mission similarly, probably better STOL and load carrying? I
think the rv-10 could as well, but would probably need some considerable gear
beef-up and I'm not sure the low-wing would not serve too well on rugged strips.
>
> best regards,
>
> aj
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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You'll have to forgive this bit if it's way off, I'm reaching back mentally
to around 1998 while working on my RV-6. I remember a discussion thread
about stiffening the fuselage just aft of the baggage compartment because
folks were worried about oil canning. Turns out the stiffeners did more
harm than good by moving the stress points unpredictably. You may want to
do a search on Matronics in other lists (RV-6) for such things. As Tim
mentioned, it's not like you're the first with a little bondo here and there
and I don't remember seeing a lot of airplanes with cracked paint due to
filler.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of greerdans@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 9:15 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Body Filler
While riveting the Elevator the bucking bar was not positioned correctly
over one of the rivets and I now have a dimple in the skin. (Naturally, the
top skin) Of course, trying to improve it with the rivet gun I made I
slightly worse and it exhibits slight oil canning.
My question is, how well does the body filler work when I get to the
finish/painting stage? Is the filler stiff enough to firm up the dimple so
that it won't oil can? I'd hate to have a situation where it would still oil
can and crack the paint. The dimple is located near where the foam ribs (at
the rear spa) are located so I will be gaining some support internally from
the foam and pro seal.....is this sufficient or should I add a stiffener? If
I ad the stiffener it will make the dimple convex on the skin which I assume
will be more difficult to hide with filler.
Thanks for your help.
George Costigan
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: End of the Spear |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
That's right.
In response to AJ, no, I am not proud of my father or grandfather. I try
not to be proud about anything. I am just thankful to have had a front-row
seat in this story and I'm glad to see how accurately it is told on the
screen.
I don't know much about the Bearhawk. There were only about 250 PA-14's
built and most of them that are still flying are in Alaska. We had to pay
$65,000 for an old one that was in decent (but not great) shape with a
poorly-overhauled engine that had to be replaced right after our ferry
flight.
Actually, the RV-10 could make a decent bush plane. It wouldn't hurt to
beef up the gear. The wheel pants would have to go and be replaced by some
kind of "mud flap" to keep rocks and stuff from tearing up the bottom of the
fuse and wings. It certainly would get you there and back a lot faster than
most bush planes, and would carry as much or more. We have been thinking
about that and would like to see one flying into and out of the jungle in
Ecuador one day. We will see.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 1:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: End of the Spear
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Jesse,
So, before I go see the movie, Nate is your Grandfather and Steve your
father?
-Sean
aj wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: aj <ajhauter@yahoo.com>
>
> Jesse,
>
> I saw it yesterday. It is now on my all time best movie list. Very
moving, what a heritage your family has. You must be very proud of the
sacrifices your Grandfather and Father made and what a transforming story
about the Wadoni.
>
> The PA-14 looks like an impressive bush plane, don't you think the
Bearhawk would serve that mission similarly, probably better STOL and load
carrying? I think the rv-10 could as well, but would probably need some
considerable gear beef-up and I'm not sure the low-wing would not serve too
well on rugged strips.
>
> best regards,
>
> aj
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
I have read the other post to your question and indeed it is true, we all
have somethings to hide.
If there is no support to back up that ding, then another option is to use
an epoxy filler rather than a polyester filler. You can then fill it below
the level of the height of contour, epoxy microballon mix, sand it out,
clean it, wet it out with resin, apply the cloth in a layer or two, let it
cure. Sand out again, then prime for final painting. The trick is to make
sure the layer or two of cloth is below she final sand out level.
I am talking about 1.4 to 2 oz glass. This will prevent the the cracking of
the paint. AeroSpace Composite Products in California has the weight
glasses you will need.
JOhn Gonzalez
Elevators finished riveting this weekend, there is a lot of stuff going on
with the foam blocks and the rear spar and the trailing edge. I think the
biggest problem was getting the rear spar back to the correct flange angle
and doing so consistently and without bending the web. The dimpling on the
rear spar seemed to open the flange up and it was difficult for me to get
the above. EEEEEE!
Getting perfection is very difficult the first time you do it.
>From: greerdans@aol.com
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Body Filler
>Date: Sun, 22 Jan 2006 09:14:36 -0500
>
>While riveting the Elevator the bucking bar was not positioned correctly
>over one of the rivets and I now have a dimple in the skin. (Naturally, the
>top skin) Of course, trying to improve it with the rivet gun I made I
>slightly worse and it exhibits slight oil canning.
>
>My question is, how well does the body filler work when I get to the
>finish/painting stage? Is the filler stiff enough to firm up the dimple so
>that it won't oil can? I'd hate to have a situation where it would still
>oil can and crack the paint. The dimple is located near where the foam ribs
>(at the rear spa) are located so I will be gaining some support internally
>from the foam and pro seal.....is this sufficient or should I add a
>stiffener? If I ad the stiffener it will make the dimple convex on the skin
>which I assume will be more difficult to hide with filler.
>
>Thanks for your help.
>
>George Costigan
Message 11
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| Subject: | Longeron holes for rudder pedal support blocks. |
Looks like I had another temporary brain shutdown. I miss drilled the six longeron
holes that are used to hold the rudder pedal support blocks. Vans instructions
say to cleco the jig on to the forward most holes on the longeron and drill
the 6 rudder pedal support holes. Actually just clecoing is not enough,
one has to align the edge of the jig with the edge of the longeron. Thats where
I went wrong. I believe only three holes are needed. The other three holes
are for a more aft placement of the rudder pedals (about 1 1/4 inches). I am
planning on drilling a third set of holes between these two sets. It appears
that I would have enough room however I would lose the adjustability. Since
I am 5'7" I figured the middle position might actually fit me well. Any comments
or suggestions on this are appreciated.
Niko
40188
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Longeron holes for rudder pedal support blocks. |
Better check with Van's ; You appear to be making Swiss cheese of the main structural
piece in that area.
----- Original Message -----
From: Nikolaos Napoli
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 8:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Longeron holes for rudder pedal support blocks.
Looks like I had another temporary brain shutdown. I miss drilled the six longeron
holes that are used to hold the rudder pedal support blocks. Vans instructions
say to cleco the jig on to the forward most holes on the longeron and
drill the 6 rudder pedal support holes. Actually just clecoing is not enough,
one has to align the edge of the jig with the edge of the longeron. Thats where
I went wrong. I believe only three holes are needed. The other three holes
are for a more aft placement of the rudder pedals (about 1 1/4 inches). I
am planning on drilling a third set of holes between these two sets. It appears
that I would have enough room however I would lose the adjustability. Since
I am 5'7" I figured the middle position might actually fit me well. Any comments
or suggestions on this are appreciated.
Niko
40188
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Additional encoder with Chelton |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Here's an offline reply that would give some info to the list if
people have similar questions....
> Tim,
>
> I noticed this at first in the pictures, then on your latest write-up
> for you panel. You mention One nice piece of equipment in my panel is
> the Ack A30 Mod 8 altitude encoder. I encourage people looking for an
> encoder to look at that one. It allows 2 serial, and one Grey code
> output, which comes in really handy if you have a GNS480 and an SL30.
>
> How come you are using a separate ACK_30 encoder to provide altitude to
> your GNS480 and SL30? Can you not use the $25,000 Chelton with its
> built in Air/Data computer to send serial or Grey code altitude to your
> Nav devices? At least that way there would be no variances between what
> you are flying and what you are reporting. Even the lowly Dynon 10A can
> provided serial altitude to the GNS480 and SL30 with its single port.
>
The answer is that the Chelton doesn't have a "built-in" air data
computer. It uses an external air data computer which is actually
a crippled GRT EIS. If you get the GRT EIS, then that replaces
the air data computer that you'd get with the Chelton. (They'll
give you a credit for it.) The GRT will put out air data and
serial altitude to the Chelton. But, nobody really had a good answer
if the EIS would output the proper signals to the Transponder
and GNS480. I know the GRT EFIS would output the proper formats,
but that's after the EFIS processes the data. I had also been
told that in order to use the GTX330 TIS, I'd need an external
encoder. So I decided to get one that would do everything I'd
want. Besides that, the ACK is a TSO'd encoder, that I guess
I would think puts me in a slightly better "legal" situation
in regards to IFR static tests, as I basically have a system
between the ACK/GTX330/GNS480 that would be approvable in a
certified aircraft.
> The Mod 8 ACK encoder is the first ACK-30 to offer serial as well as
> Grey code output, however I dont see any benefit to multiple serial
> outputs. A single serial output from one (ACK-30) should be able to
> drive multiple devices. This is similar to the single Aviation output
> serial port on my Garmin GNS-430 driving three sometimes four separate
> devicesthe GTX-327 Transponder, the EI Fuel Flow, the Garmin 195
> portable and occasionally a tablet computer.
That's true that a serial output can drive multiple devices just
fine, but in the case of the GNS480, it prefers the 1200 baud
Apollo format, and the GTX330 prefers the GARMIN/TRIMBLE format
at 9600 baud. So rather than hooking them up and hoping that
I could get them both to recognize a common format, with only
2 wires I can hook them both up using their preferred methods.
And, what happens if you shut off the GNS430? Does the serial output
still go to the GTX-327 just fine and any other devices? I decided
that the ACK sending separate signals (which do read the exact same
altitude...and are within 10' of the GRT unit) would be a better
"fail safe" way to go. I can lose a transponder and my entire
chelton system, and still have altitude data on my GNS480.
>
> Seems a waste to spend all that money on the Chelton and then rely on a
> $200 ACK-30 for your altitude reporting. Ive never been able to get my
> hands on the Chelton installation manuals to truly access its
> capabilities so this is probably why I have never considered it. So what
> am I missing that explains the separate encoder?
Well, in the big scheme of things, the $200 didn't have any impact on
my decisions. The alternative of trusting it all to the GRT maybe
could have worked, but there were enough barriers to that method,
the largest of which was the lack of information available, and making
it harder yet was when 3 different vendors couldn't decide among
themselves if I could do it without a separate encoder. When I saw
what the ACK would do, to me it simplifies things, and also gives some
good redundancy, so I'm happy with it. It's a cool little box, too.
Hope that answers the questions a bit. I'm sure there's even more
to the story that could be filled in, but I didn't have luck
getting any more info than that.
On the good side, with the exception of my music input jacks, any wires
that run out to the wing (except my trim, which is done) I now have a
fully wired, fully operational (as far as I can tell without turning
the engine on outside), and fully integrated panel. So next weekend
I'm planning to take it all to the airport for final assembly.
If I keep my same pace, I'll be ready for the DAR/FAA sometime
in February, with a target date of March 1.
Tim
>
> William Curtis
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
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