Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:56 AM - Re: Riveting the elevator trim cable anchor brackets (Rick)
2. 07:41 AM - Re: Riveting the elevator trim cable anchor brackets (John Gonzalez)
3. 09:37 AM - Re: Sealant gun (Darton Steve)
4. 10:10 AM - Re: Sealant gun (Sean Stephens)
5. 11:08 AM - Bending the Tailcone Longerons (John Jessen)
6. 11:40 AM - Re: Bending the Tailcone Longerons (Tim Olson)
7. 11:50 AM - Re: Bending the Tailcone Longerons (Jeff Carpenter)
8. 11:58 AM - Re: Bending the Tailcone Longerons (Chris , Susie Darcy)
9. 01:21 PM - Re: Re: Bending the Tailcone Longerons ()
10. 01:55 PM - Re: Bending the Tailcone Longerons (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
11. 02:49 PM - ECI Angle Oil Filter Adaptor Kit (Russell Daves)
12. 05:16 PM - Re: Bending the Tailcone Longerons (Bill and Tami Britton)
13. 06:44 PM - Re: ECI Angle Oil Filter Adaptor Kit (rob kermanj)
14. 06:52 PM - Re: Bending the Tailcone Longerons (Robert G. Wright)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting the elevator trim cable anchor brackets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Deems hit it right on the head, when you are putting in the trim cables it is MUCH
easier to put the nuuts on the cable then rivet it to the plate. The issue
about strength came about becasue some od us had nuts pop off the steel plate
with little force which could result in a either no trim or stuck trim situation.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting the elevator trim cable anchor brackets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Now that explains a few things. I guess I will wait on the riveting of the
bracket until I really need to and it will give me more time to think of a
removable method.
Thanks,
JG. 409
>From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Riveting the elevator trim cable anchor brackets
>Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 00:40:24 -0700
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
>I believe that the call out for blind rivets is because it's difficult to
>impossible to get the cable connected/disconnected without removing the
>brackets from the inspection plate. someone felt that it would be easier to
>use pop rivets tht could be more easily replaced during an annual
>inspection than solid rivets. The most optimum solution would be an
>arrangement where An screws could be used and the bracket could be threaded
>or alternativly some nut plates attached. once I receive the CNC bracket, I
>plan to see if it could be, a; tapped for a #6 or 8 screw. or b. Hard
>mounted to a broader/wider plate using flush head rivets, and then putting
>nutplates on the broader plates, then dimpling the covers for screws.
>
>Deems Davis # 406
>Wings
>http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>John Gonzalez wrote:
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>>
>>I have finally come to the location in the plans where it calls for
>>riveting the cable anchor brackets. I was surprised that the manual calls
>>for blind rivets (LP4-3). There was so much talk about making special
>>super strong cable attachment brackets that I question when looking at
>>this rivet designation, whether the brackets really need to be that strong
>>and if they were made too strong, whether that might cause a problem some
>>place else.
>>
>>Those that orderred the custom bracket, are you using solid rivets instead
>>of the blind ones. Why are the Van's designers wanting blind rivet when
>>access is completely un-peaded?
>>
>>Just an interesting question????
>>
>>John G. 409
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 3
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Sean or any sealant gun users,
Did you use a ribbon nozzle to apply Pro seal to
mating parts (instead of spreading it on via a
Popsicle stick). What were the tank parts that you
applied Pro seal to with your sealant gun, when and
how did you use it? Did you mix and then load an empty
cartridge from a quart kit or use the "semkit" tubes
or a combination of the above?
Steve 40212
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
> <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> +1 on having a Semco sealant gun. I went to
> aircraft spruce and
> purchased tubes and nozzles. That way I could buy
> the quart kit, mix it up myself and place in the
> Semco for easy application. You can usually find a
> good used Semco on Ebay.
>
> -Sean #40303
> http://rv10.stephensville.com
>
> John W. Cox wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox"
> > --> <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
> >
> > The Semkits allow quick automated mixing without
> any mess but cost
> > more than purchasing product in two parts and
> mixing manually.
> > Nothing can make it quicker, better flow control
> and less messy than a
> > pneumatic sealant gun. The 6 oz canister is the
> most popular size.
> >
> > I will patiently wait for anyone with an argument
> to use a baggy.
> >
> > John
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Darton
> > Steve
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 8:43 AM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Pro Seal Wipes
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve
> <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Has any one used this type of product when
> building the fuel tanks? It
> > is a product that wipes off the excess Pro seal.
> > http://www.bergdahl.com/Wipes.htm
> >
> > Does any one have a recommendation for or against
> using a pneumatic
> > sealant gun when building the tanks?
> >
> > Steve 40212
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> protection around
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ====================================
> ====================================
> ====================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Here's the parts from Aircraft Spruce for the cartridges...
09-00758 PLUNGER FOR PRO SEAL CARTRIDGE $.67
09-00759 PRO SEAL CARTRIDGE ONLY 2-1/2 $.66
EA4180 NOZZLE FOR PRO-SEAL KITS $1.20
I ordered the quart kit of sealant from Van's. Mixed, then placed into
the cartridges. I used this for applying on all parts when doing final
tank assembly.
-Sean (#40303)
Darton Steve wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
>
> Sean or any sealant gun users,
>
> Did you use a ribbon nozzle to apply Pro seal to
> mating parts (instead of spreading it on via a
> Popsicle stick). What were the tank parts that you
> applied Pro seal to with your sealant gun, when and
> how did you use it? Did you mix and then load an empty
> cartridge from a quart kit or use the "semkit" tubes
> or a combination of the above?
>
> Steve 40212
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
>> <schmoboy@cox.net>
>>
>> +1 on having a Semco sealant gun. I went to
>> aircraft spruce and
>> purchased tubes and nozzles. That way I could buy
>> the quart kit, mix it up myself and place in the
>> Semco for easy application. You can usually find a
>> good used Semco on Ebay.
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>> http://rv10.stephensville.com
>>
>> John W. Cox wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox"
>>> --> <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>>>
>>> The Semkits allow quick automated mixing without
>>>
>> any mess but cost
>>
>>> more than purchasing product in two parts and
>>>
>> mixing manually.
>>
>>> Nothing can make it quicker, better flow control
>>>
>> and less messy than a
>>
>>> pneumatic sealant gun. The 6 oz canister is the
>>>
>> most popular size.
>>
>>> I will patiently wait for anyone with an argument
>>>
>> to use a baggy.
>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
>>>
>> Behalf Of Darton
>>
>>> Steve
>>> Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 8:43 AM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Pro Seal Wipes
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve
>>>
>> <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
>>
>>> Has any one used this type of product when
>>>
>> building the fuel tanks? It
>>
>>> is a product that wipes off the excess Pro seal.
>>> http://www.bergdahl.com/Wipes.htm
>>>
>>> Does any one have a recommendation for or against
>>>
>> using a pneumatic
>>
>>> sealant gun when building the tanks?
>>>
>>> Steve 40212
>>>
>>> __________________________________________________
>>>
>> protection around
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ====================================
>> ====================================
>> ====================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
On page 10-6, Step. 2.
Does anyone have a method to get these longerons to bend? I pre-loaded the
longeron, gave a couple good whacks with the rubber mallet and took the
piece over to the skins, laid it out and nothing. I just don't see anything
happening. Am I being too gentle, not using the right mallet, not getting
enough pre-load. I've tried it with both aluminum protection in the vise
and with the plastic protective covers. Nada. I stopped before really
laying into it because I was tired and didn't want to screw it up. I'm
ready to do more whacking this weekend, so any advice would be helpful.
Thanks
John Jessen
~328 (Working on the website while doing the business travel thing)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
The answer is probably "yes". It sounds like you know what you're
probably doing wrong/not doing. I used a plastic mallet...the one
that came with my C-Fram dimpler. Otherwise, just preload it so that
it's got a good amount of pressure on the angle, then whack it real
close to where it's in the vise. If it doesn't bend, whack it
harder. Once you have bent one a little, you'll get the hang
of it, and then it'll be a piece of cake. Better to ease into
it though, it's harder to bend them back if you overbend.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
John Jessen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> On page 10-6, Step. 2.
>
> Does anyone have a method to get these longerons to bend? I pre-loaded the
> longeron, gave a couple good whacks with the rubber mallet and took the
> piece over to the skins, laid it out and nothing. I just don't see anything
> happening. Am I being too gentle, not using the right mallet, not getting
> enough pre-load. I've tried it with both aluminum protection in the vise
> and with the plastic protective covers. Nada. I stopped before really
> laying into it because I was tired and didn't want to screw it up. I'm
> ready to do more whacking this weekend, so any advice would be helpful.
> Thanks
>
> John Jessen
> ~328 (Working on the website while doing the business travel thing)
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Keep whacking away until it bends. It will work per the
instructions... but I remember it taking a lot of effort.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Still skinning wings
On Jan 25, 2006, at 11:07 AM, John Jessen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> On page 10-6, Step. 2.
>
> Does anyone have a method to get these longerons to bend? I pre-
> loaded the
> longeron, gave a couple good whacks with the rubber mallet and took
> the
> piece over to the skins, laid it out and nothing. I just don't see
> anything
> happening. Am I being too gentle, not using the right mallet, not
> getting
> enough pre-load. I've tried it with both aluminum protection in
> the vise
> and with the plastic protective covers. Nada. I stopped before
> really
> laying into it because I was tired and didn't want to screw it up.
> I'm
> ready to do more whacking this weekend, so any advice would be
> helpful.
> Thanks
>
> John Jessen
> ~328 (Working on the website while doing the business travel thing)
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
Yes use a different hammer ...I used a solid plastic one as Tim pointed out
and I had to be careful not to hit to hard as it bent very easily.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 6:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending the Tailcone Longerons
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> The answer is probably "yes". It sounds like you know what you're
> probably doing wrong/not doing. I used a plastic mallet...the one
> that came with my C-Fram dimpler. Otherwise, just preload it so that
> it's got a good amount of pressure on the angle, then whack it real close
> to where it's in the vise. If it doesn't bend, whack it
> harder. Once you have bent one a little, you'll get the hang
> of it, and then it'll be a piece of cake. Better to ease into
> it though, it's harder to bend them back if you overbend.
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>
>
> John Jessen wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>>
>> On page 10-6, Step. 2. Does anyone have a method to get these longerons
>> to bend? I pre-loaded the
>> longeron, gave a couple good whacks with the rubber mallet and took the
>> piece over to the skins, laid it out and nothing. I just don't see
>> anything
>> happening. Am I being too gentle, not using the right mallet, not
>> getting
>> enough pre-load. I've tried it with both aluminum protection in the vise
>> and with the plastic protective covers. Nada. I stopped before really
>> laying into it because I was tired and didn't want to screw it up. I'm
>> ready to do more whacking this weekend, so any advice would be helpful.
>> Thanks
>>
>> John Jessen
>> ~328 (Working on the website while doing the business travel thing)
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Hugo here ,I didn't say anythings because look like stupid can't do a normal bent,(two
pieces gone ,
the new ones just come in,
Advise to the next will experiment with this instructions ,don't do the hole with
the elongations before bending,my stress crack at it for the hits and vibrations,was
very interesting see the crack come for vibration,and because the hole
come a little squarissh,I'm mad with my self for don't apply common sense before
follow the instructionsafter that experience I became more concius about
round very well ich cut,and became a little frustrated with fractions in the
mesures,the metric it is so easy with precisions parts
hugo
do not archive
>
> From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
> Date: 2006/01/25 Wed PM 02:57:32 EST
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending the Tailcone Longerons
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
>
> Yes use a different hammer ...I used a solid plastic one as Tim pointed out
> and I had to be careful not to hit to hard as it bent very easily.
>
> Chris
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 6:40 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending the Tailcone Longerons
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >
> > The answer is probably "yes". It sounds like you know what you're
> > probably doing wrong/not doing. I used a plastic mallet...the one
> > that came with my C-Fram dimpler. Otherwise, just preload it so that
> > it's got a good amount of pressure on the angle, then whack it real close
> > to where it's in the vise. If it doesn't bend, whack it
> > harder. Once you have bent one a little, you'll get the hang
> > of it, and then it'll be a piece of cake. Better to ease into
> > it though, it's harder to bend them back if you overbend.
> > Tim
> >
> > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> >
> >
> > John Jessen wrote:
> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
> >>
> >> On page 10-6, Step. 2. Does anyone have a method to get these longerons
> >> to bend? I pre-loaded the
> >> longeron, gave a couple good whacks with the rubber mallet and took the
> >> piece over to the skins, laid it out and nothing. I just don't see
> >> anything
> >> happening. Am I being too gentle, not using the right mallet, not
> >> getting
> >> enough pre-load. I've tried it with both aluminum protection in the vise
> >> and with the plastic protective covers. Nada. I stopped before really
> >> laying into it because I was tired and didn't want to screw it up. I'm
> >> ready to do more whacking this weekend, so any advice would be helpful.
> >> Thanks
> >>
> >> John Jessen
> >> ~328 (Working on the website while doing the business travel thing)
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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|
| Subject: | Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Just wait 'til you get to the fuselage longerons...
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Carpenter
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending the Tailcone Longerons
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Keep whacking away until it bends. It will work per the
instructions... but I remember it taking a lot of effort.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Still skinning wings
On Jan 25, 2006, at 11:07 AM, John Jessen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> On page 10-6, Step. 2.
>
> Does anyone have a method to get these longerons to bend? I pre-
> loaded the
> longeron, gave a couple good whacks with the rubber mallet and took
> the
> piece over to the skins, laid it out and nothing. I just don't see
> anything
> happening. Am I being too gentle, not using the right mallet, not
> getting
> enough pre-load. I've tried it with both aluminum protection in
> the vise
> and with the plastic protective covers. Nada. I stopped before
> really
> laying into it because I was tired and didn't want to screw it up.
> I'm
> ready to do more whacking this weekend, so any advice would be
> helpful.
> Thanks
>
> John Jessen
> ~328 (Working on the website while doing the business travel thing)
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | ECI Angle Oil Filter Adaptor Kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
Has anyone installed the ECI angle Oil Filter Adaptor Kit on their IO-540?
If so, what size spacer did you use?
Russ Daves
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
John, I just had to straighten the horizontal stab attachment bars a couple
days ago. I didn't have a rubber mallet around so I used a small
sledgehammer (I know this sounds wrong--sledgehammer--airplane, but it was a
small one (probably a 1 or 2 pounder with a short handle)) with a papertowel
folded up and taped onto the ends. It worked great. Much more mass than a
rubber mallet and it didn't hurt the metal. (It did still take a pretty
good tap to get them to bend though).
You seem to only be a few steps ahead of me. If you run into any snags or
gotcha's keep me informed.
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 3:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bending the Tailcone Longerons
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Just wait 'til you get to the fuselage longerons...
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
> Carpenter
> Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 1:50 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending the Tailcone Longerons
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
> Keep whacking away until it bends. It will work per the
> instructions... but I remember it taking a lot of effort.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> Still skinning wings
>
> On Jan 25, 2006, at 11:07 AM, John Jessen wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>>
>> On page 10-6, Step. 2.
>>
>> Does anyone have a method to get these longerons to bend? I pre-
>> loaded the
>> longeron, gave a couple good whacks with the rubber mallet and took
>> the
>> piece over to the skins, laid it out and nothing. I just don't see
>> anything
>> happening. Am I being too gentle, not using the right mallet, not
>> getting
>> enough pre-load. I've tried it with both aluminum protection in
>> the vise
>> and with the plastic protective covers. Nada. I stopped before
>> really
>> laying into it because I was tired and didn't want to screw it up.
>> I'm
>> ready to do more whacking this weekend, so any advice would be
>> helpful.
>> Thanks
>>
>> John Jessen
>> ~328 (Working on the website while doing the business travel thing)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: ECI Angle Oil Filter Adaptor Kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: rob kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
I believe mine is 1.4". Ask for the medium size (lack of better word).
rob kermanj
rv10es@earthlink.net
On Jan 25, 2006, at 5:48 PM, Russell Daves wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
>
> Has anyone installed the ECI angle Oil Filter Adaptor Kit on their
> IO-540? If so, what size spacer did you use?
>
> Russ Daves
>
>
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
John,
I bent mine a few weeks ago, and someone else had my thought, so I'll second
it. I took my slow time on the first one, slowly adding alternating
pre-loads and stronger hits until it began to bend. It took a WHILE for me
to get the first one to begin bending, and then it seemed to develop the
bend much more easily. I put it in and out of the vise so many times to
compare it against the skin that I was tired of doing it but knew it was
necessary to take it slow.
When I got to the second one, yes, it went much quicker because I had an
approximate starting point of pre-load/hit strength. Still had a lot of
iterations in/out of the vise but so be it.
Used the 1 - 1 1/2 lb orange dead blow hammer.
Rob
Priming tailcone parts
#392
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 7:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending the Tailcone Longerons
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
John, I just had to straighten the horizontal stab attachment bars a couple
days ago. I didn't have a rubber mallet around so I used a small
sledgehammer (I know this sounds wrong--sledgehammer--airplane, but it was a
small one (probably a 1 or 2 pounder with a short handle)) with a papertowel
folded up and taped onto the ends. It worked great. Much more mass than a
rubber mallet and it didn't hurt the metal. (It did still take a pretty
good tap to get them to bend though).
You seem to only be a few steps ahead of me. If you run into any snags or
gotcha's keep me informed.
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 3:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bending the Tailcone Longerons
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Just wait 'til you get to the fuselage longerons...
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
> Carpenter
> Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 1:50 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending the Tailcone Longerons
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
> Keep whacking away until it bends. It will work per the
> instructions... but I remember it taking a lot of effort.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> Still skinning wings
>
> On Jan 25, 2006, at 11:07 AM, John Jessen wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>>
>> On page 10-6, Step. 2.
>>
>> Does anyone have a method to get these longerons to bend? I pre-
>> loaded the
>> longeron, gave a couple good whacks with the rubber mallet and took
>> the
>> piece over to the skins, laid it out and nothing. I just don't see
>> anything
>> happening. Am I being too gentle, not using the right mallet, not
>> getting
>> enough pre-load. I've tried it with both aluminum protection in
>> the vise
>> and with the plastic protective covers. Nada. I stopped before
>> really
>> laying into it because I was tired and didn't want to screw it up.
>> I'm
>> ready to do more whacking this weekend, so any advice would be
>> helpful.
>> Thanks
>>
>> John Jessen
>> ~328 (Working on the website while doing the business travel thing)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
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