Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:09 AM - Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation (Harris, Jeremy P)
2. 07:18 AM - Re: Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
3. 07:18 AM - Re: Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
4. 07:32 AM - Re: RV10-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 01/29/06 (Jay Brinkmeyer)
5. 08:31 AM - Re: Proseal on trailing edges? (Nikolaos Napoli)
6. 08:44 AM - Re: Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation (Harris, Jeremy P)
7. 09:22 AM - Re: Proseal on trailing edges? (John Jessen)
8. 09:23 AM - Re: rudder cable fairings (Chris Johnston)
9. 01:14 PM - Re: Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation (Conti, Rick)
10. 01:47 PM - Minnisota (John Jessen)
11. 02:02 PM - hugo rv10 ()
12. 03:07 PM - Re: Minnisota (SteinAir, Inc.)
13. 03:53 PM - Re: hugo rv10 (Marcus Cooper)
14. 06:06 PM - Re: hugo rv10 (John Jessen)
15. 06:20 PM - Re: Proseal on trailing edges? (John W. Cox)
16. 07:27 PM - Re: hugo rv10 (Marcus Cooper)
17. 07:47 PM - Re: hugo rv10 (Deems Davis)
18. 08:15 PM - Re: Proseal on trailing edges? (Rick)
19. 09:46 PM - Re: hugo rv10 (Nikolaos Napoli)
20. 10:35 PM - Re: Proseal on trailing edges? (Chris , Susie Darcy)
21. 10:35 PM - Re: Proseal on trailing edges? (Chris , Susie Darcy)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
All,
As someone pointed out in one of our photos of the Blue Mountain
Avionics EFIS one over the weekend, our unit is mounted differently than
the website recommends. Greg Richter's gang has a modification
available to install the BMA EFIS One CPU rotate 90 degrees so the
connectors point aft making install in the -10 much easier. Anyone out
there considering the BMA EFIS one should definitely consider having
them change the orientation of the CPU for you. This requires rotating
some of the accelerometers in the box and recalibrating. However, it's
well worth it when you're short on space like we are in the -10 panel.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
Message 2
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| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Jeremy:
On your web site, your pre-oiler grounds your mags when on. Why's that?
Can't you have the pre-oiler on when running the engine? I guess I have
seen Infinity's web site mention a pressure switch that could turn the
pre-oiler on/off based on the oil pressure . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harris,
Jeremy P
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P"
<jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
All,
As someone pointed out in one of our photos of the Blue Mountain
Avionics EFIS one over the weekend, our unit is mounted differently than
the website recommends. Greg Richter's gang has a modification
available to install the BMA EFIS One CPU rotate 90 degrees so the
connectors point aft making install in the -10 much easier. Anyone out
there considering the BMA EFIS one should definitely consider having
them change the orientation of the CPU for you. This requires rotating
some of the accelerometers in the box and recalibrating. However, it's
well worth it when you're short on space like we are in the -10 panel.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
Message 3
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| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
They should have done that years ago!
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harris, Jeremy P
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 7:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P"
<jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
All,
As someone pointed out in one of our photos of the Blue Mountain
Avionics EFIS one over the weekend, our unit is mounted differently than
the website recommends. Greg Richter's gang has a modification
available to install the BMA EFIS One CPU rotate 90 degrees so the
connectors point aft making install in the -10 much easier. Anyone out
there considering the BMA EFIS one should definitely consider having
them change the orientation of the CPU for you. This requires rotating
some of the accelerometers in the box and recalibrating. However, it's
well worth it when you're short on space like we are in the -10 panel.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 01/29/06 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
My understanding is that the sole purpose of adding tank sealant to the
trailing edges was to hold the skins+wedge tightly together so they could be
riveted... Maybe I missed something? Back riveting worked well for me too.
Jay
fuse
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Proseal on trailing edges? |
There is another benefit to the proseal in the trailing edges in that one is less
likely to develop cracks in the trailing edge rivet holes. I have heard that
cracks in the trailing edges of RVs are not that uncommon. The proseal essentially
bonds the trailing edges together resulting in a more rubust structure.
Niko
----- Original Message ----
From: John W. Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 7:07:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Before dismissing the use of Proseal on trailing edge riveting, you
should have a comfort with the term "faying action" which is the
equivalent to the wicking of liquids between two solid objects. You did
say Louisiana. There is a reason that primers and topcoats use the
exposure to moisture and salt spray as the baseline test for protection.
Primer doesn't stop it with either skin overlaps or trailing edge
construction. If you really want to get granular you can also research
"hydrogen Embrittlement" while your learning.
Proseal is also excellent on the terminal ends and fasteners used to
complete the many bonding straps between movable control surfaces to the
main airframe. The bonding straps are used to release P static buildup
from dust or moisture in the air.
Alexander's should be a good source for answers to such questions.
Without resurrecting the discussion here you can ask them about
conversion treatments and primer applications as well.
John - $00.02
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sponcil
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 2:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Sponcil"
<bsponcil@belinblank.org>
Eric,
I didn't use proseal on my rudder and it came out really nice (IMHO of
course). I live in Iowa, but if I don't think I'd go for the proseal
even if
I lived on the coast. If corrosion is a big concern just do a nice job
of
primering.
-Brian
N211BD
#10497
www.n211bd.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 9:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
>
> I am on my way to Alexander to start my tail in a couple weeks. My
> question is whether or not I need to proseal the trailing edges, and
if
> so, is it even feasible at Alexander? I live in Baton Rouge, LA so
> humidity and moisture (read corrosion) are of concern. I would like to
> poll the audience and open the floodgates. I would love to hear what
most
> of you have done, especially any one else living in a coastal area or
that
> went to Alexander. Also if anyome has the first couple pages scanned
or
> emailable in someway that I can review before going it would be much
> appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Eric Kallio
> 40518
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7804#7804
Message 6
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| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
The pre-oiler grounds the mags so that the engine can be turned over
with the starter while oiling without firing the engine. It keeps the
lazy pilot in the cockpit instead of going outside and hand propping the
engine to break up the cold oil.
Jeremy
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend [mailto:Tdawson@avidyne.com]
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 10:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
--> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Jeremy:
On your web site, your pre-oiler grounds your mags when on. Why's that?
Can't you have the pre-oiler on when running the engine? I guess I have
seen Infinity's web site mention a pressure switch that could turn the
pre-oiler on/off based on the oil pressure . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harris,
Jeremy P
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P"
<jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
All,
As someone pointed out in one of our photos of the Blue Mountain
Avionics EFIS one over the weekend, our unit is mounted differently than
the website recommends. Greg Richter's gang has a modification
available to install the BMA EFIS One CPU rotate 90 degrees so the
connectors point aft making install in the -10 much easier. Anyone out
there considering the BMA EFIS one should definitely consider having
them change the orientation of the CPU for you. This requires rotating
some of the accelerometers in the box and recalibrating. However, it's
well worth it when you're short on space like we are in the -10 panel.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
Message 7
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| Subject: | Proseal on trailing edges? |
What's the big deal to prosealing the edges? Or, rather, what's the big
deal to NOT prosealing. Why would you not proseal? Other than the little
mess? Time involved?
John Jessen
~328
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 8:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
There is another benefit to the proseal in the trailing edges in that one is
less likely to develop cracks in the trailing edge rivet holes. I have
heard that cracks in the trailing edges of RVs are not that uncommon. The
proseal essentially bonds the trailing edges together resulting in a more
rubust structure.
Niko
----- Original Message ----
From: John W. Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 7:07:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Before dismissing the use of Proseal on trailing edge riveting, you
should have a comfort with the term "faying action" which is the
equivalent to the wicking of liquids between two solid objects. You did
say Louisiana. There is a reason that primers and topcoats use the
exposure to moisture and salt spray as the baseline test for protection.
Primer doesn't stop it with either skin overlaps or trailing edge
construction. If you really want to get granular you can also research
"hydrogen Embrittlement" while your learning.
Proseal is also excellent on the terminal ends and fasteners used to
complete the many bonding straps between movable control surfaces to the
main airframe. The bonding straps are used to release P static buildup
from dust or moisture in the air.
Alexander's should be a good source for answers to such questions.
Without resurrecting the discussion here you can ask them about
conversion treatments and primer applications as well.
John - $00.02
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sponcil
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 2:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Sponcil"
<bsponcil@belinblank.org>
Eric,
I didn't use proseal on my rudder and it came out really nice (IMHO of
course). I live in Iowa, but if I don't think I'd go for the proseal
even if
I lived on the coast. If corrosion is a big concern just do a nice job
of
primering.
-Brian
N211BD
#10497
www.n211bd.org <http://www.n211bd.org/>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 9:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
>
> I am on my way to Alexander to start my tail in a couple weeks. My
> question is whether or not I need to proseal the trailing edges, and
if
> so, is it even feasible at Alexander? I live in Baton Rouge, LA so
> humidity and moisture (read corrosion) are of concern. I would like to
> poll the audience and open the floodgates. I would love to hear what
most
> of you have done, especially any one else living in a coastal area or
that
> went to Alexander. Also if anyome has the first couple pages scanned
or
> emailable in someway that I can review before going it would be much
> appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Eric
Message 8
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|
| Subject: | rudder cable fairings |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
I had this question some time back, and I ended up putting the fairings
on before the final assembly of the tailcone. Access is a bit limited
for what I had in mind, so that's what I did. I figured out that if I
put the fairing where I wanted so that it captured the tubing around the
rudder cable nicely, I couldn't rivet the fairing on permanently and
pass the rudder cable through later. If I wanted the fairing on, I
would have had to put the cable in there at that time. instead, I made
the fairings removable with nutplates and screws. A bit overkill, but
it'll make it easier in the long run I think. here's a pic:
http://supercj.bizland.com/archives/2005/09/tailcone_8.html
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 11:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder cable fairings
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I will leave them outside. Another note, if you do wait until after the
tailcone is assembled you will need a pop rivet dimpler to dimple the
tailcone skin.
Larry
Jesse Saint wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
>Did ya'll make the plates flush with the skin or did you just let it
sit
>outside the skin and dimple the rivets?
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse@itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>Fax: 815-377-3694
>
>I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding
I-TEC,
>please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
me,
>please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it
has
>voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
>Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 9:24 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: rudder cable fairings
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright"
><armywrights@adelphia.net>
>
>Thanks Tim and Larry for the reinforcement. Do not archive
>
>Rob
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
>Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 2:01 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: rudder cable fairings
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
>I agree with Tim. There is access from the top to buck the rivets and
>waiting until later will allow you to align the fairing with the cable
exit.
>
>Larry Rosen
>http://lrosen.nerv10.com
>
>
>
>
>>Robert G. Wright wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>Did any you who used the fairings install them during the initial
>>>tailcone build? Right now I'm thinking about waiting 'til later so I
>>>can see just how I need to leave clearance for the cable exit. Is
>>>this necessary? If you waited 'til later, how hard was the install?
>>>I'm planning on riveting the ones on the aft tailcone.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Rob
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>#392 ready to rivet tailcone starting tomorrow!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
This is the Lazy Pilot. There will also be a switch to engage the
preoiler without grounding the mags for use in flight should the oil
pump fail.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Harris, Jeremy P
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 11:43 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P"
<jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
The pre-oiler grounds the mags so that the engine can be turned over
with the starter while oiling without firing the engine. It keeps the
lazy pilot in the cockpit instead of going outside and hand propping the
engine to break up the cold oil.
Jeremy
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend [mailto:Tdawson@avidyne.com]
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 10:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
--> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Jeremy:
On your web site, your pre-oiler grounds your mags when on. Why's that?
Can't you have the pre-oiler on when running the engine? I guess I have
seen Infinity's web site mention a pressure switch that could turn the
pre-oiler on/off based on the oil pressure . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harris,
Jeremy P
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Harris, Jeremy P"
<jeremy.p.harris@boeing.com>
All,
As someone pointed out in one of our photos of the Blue Mountain
Avionics EFIS one over the weekend, our unit is mounted differently than
the website recommends. Greg Richter's gang has a modification
available to install the BMA EFIS One CPU rotate 90 degrees so the
connectors point aft making install in the -10 much easier. Anyone out
there considering the BMA EFIS one should definitely consider having
them change the orientation of the CPU for you. This requires rotating
some of the accelerometers in the box and recalibrating. However, it's
well worth it when you're short on space like we are in the -10 panel.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
Message 10
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Anyone building in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area? I'll be in town on the
7th for business and could stay over a day should someone want to show off
and/or secure some help.
John Jessen
~328
do not archive
Message 11
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--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Here is a question for somebody allready finish the tail cone ,according intructions
I have to full rigged the control surfaces before connect the tail cone
to the fuselage /cabin.
Will not be more logic to do this after the complete fuselage is connected ,then
the full alignement will be more accurate?
in another issue ,how the elevator trim motor can be service ,or replace if is
a problem with it ,from wath I can see ,need to dissy. the complete controls surfaces
to acces it.do I'm wrong.
Thanks for the time the guys ahead dedicated to instruct us,
Hugo
Message 12
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "SteinAir, Inc." <stein@steinair.com>
I think there are somewhere around 200 people in our local VAF chapter and
there are a TON of projects going on around the twin cities. Drop a quick
line to the guys at the MN wing and you're sure to get a response. The
website is: http://www.mnwing.org
If you'd like to play with some new glass you can visit us at our shop
anytime.
Cheers,
Stein.
do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Jessen
> Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 3:46 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Minnisota
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> Anyone building in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area? I'll be in town on the
> 7th for business and could stay over a day should someone want to show off
> and/or secure some help.
>
> John Jessen
> ~328
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 13
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Hugo,
I am far from finishing but may be able to help some. As for rigging
the controls, I think the reason you can get away with making the pushrod
tubes to final length is the kit is so consistent due to prepunching that
there is very little, if any, variance between airplanes. Since it is so
much easier to install some components prior to attaching the tailcone and
there is no real downside then it makes sense to do so.
Regarding the pitch trim, I just installed that this weekend and had to
remove the whole assembly because I put in a piece wrong. The lesson I
learned is that, while not much fun, you can remove the pitch trim system by
only removing the empennage fairing. You will also have to drill out the
trim cable mounts on the elevator access panel since (at least on mine) you
can't unthread the cable with the plate attached due to elevator
interference. Which is also why Van's has us pop rivet it on instead of
solid rivets. The good news is you do not have to remove any major
components.
Hope this helps, there may be better answers out there.
Marcus
40286
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gommone7@bellsouth.net
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 4:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: hugo rv10
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Here is a question for somebody allready finish the tail cone ,according
intructions I have to full rigged the control surfaces before connect the
tail cone to the fuselage /cabin.
Will not be more logic to do this after the complete fuselage is connected
,then the full alignement will be more accurate?
in another issue ,how the elevator trim motor can be service ,or replace if
is a problem with it ,from wath I can see ,need to dissy. the complete
controls surfaces to acces it.do I'm wrong.
Thanks for the time the guys ahead dedicated to instruct us,
Hugo
Message 14
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Is this a good spot for platenuts instead of pop rivets?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 3:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: hugo rv10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Hugo,
I am far from finishing but may be able to help some. As for rigging
the controls, I think the reason you can get away with making the pushrod
tubes to final length is the kit is so consistent due to prepunching that
there is very little, if any, variance between airplanes. Since it is so
much easier to install some components prior to attaching the tailcone and
there is no real downside then it makes sense to do so.
Regarding the pitch trim, I just installed that this weekend and had to
remove the whole assembly because I put in a piece wrong. The lesson I
learned is that, while not much fun, you can remove the pitch trim system by
only removing the empennage fairing. You will also have to drill out the
trim cable mounts on the elevator access panel since (at least on mine) you
can't unthread the cable with the plate attached due to elevator
interference. Which is also why Van's has us pop rivet it on instead of
solid rivets. The good news is you do not have to remove any major
components.
Hope this helps, there may be better answers out there.
Marcus
40286
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gommone7@bellsouth.net
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 4:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: hugo rv10
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Here is a question for somebody allready finish the tail cone ,according
intructions I have to full rigged the control surfaces before connect the
tail cone to the fuselage /cabin.
Will not be more logic to do this after the complete fuselage is connected
,then the full alignement will be more accurate?
in another issue ,how the elevator trim motor can be service ,or replace if
is a problem with it ,from wath I can see ,need to dissy. the complete
controls surfaces to acces it.do I'm wrong.
Thanks for the time the guys ahead dedicated to instruct us, Hugo
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Proseal on trailing edges? |
Cutting corners, saving time, saving money. Its all about short cuts
for some and additional overbuilding for others. Each to their
preference.
Although its more work, the quality of the final product far outlasts
and outperforms the "Just build it" attitude. I think that the chance
to build an aircraft "Superior" to a Certified is a thing of beauty in
the Amateur built arena. Just look at the newest panels of Scott
Schmidt and Tim Olson along with their great paint schemes. You might
Google Dr. Carl Cadwell's newest flying 6 passenger Epic Air with the
Beech Starship P&W turboprop. " Beam me up Scottie".
Now "Making and living the Dream" - that's a great Mantra. Welcome
aboard for the ride - Eric.
John - KUAO
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
What's the big deal to prosealing the edges? Or, rather, what's the big
deal to NOT prosealing. Why would you not proseal? Other than the
little mess? Time involved?
John Jessen
~328
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos
Napoli
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 8:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
There is another benefit to the proseal in the trailing edges in that
one is less likely to develop cracks in the trailing edge rivet holes.
I have heard that cracks in the trailing edges of RVs are not that
uncommon. The proseal essentially bonds the trailing edges together
resulting in a more rubust structure.
Niko
----- Original Message ----
From: John W. Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 7:07:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Before dismissing the use of Proseal on trailing edge riveting, you
should have a comfort with the term "faying action" which is the
equivalent to the wicking of liquids between two solid objects. You did
say Louisiana. There is a reason that primers and topcoats use the
exposure to moisture and salt spray as the baseline test for protection.
Primer doesn't stop it with either skin overlaps or trailing edge
construction. If you really want to get granular you can also research
"hydrogen Embrittlement" while your learning.
Proseal is also excellent on the terminal ends and fasteners used to
complete the many bonding straps between movable control surfaces to the
main airframe. The bonding straps are used to release P static buildup
from dust or moisture in the air.
Alexander's should be a good source for answers to such questions.
Without resurrecting the discussion here you can ask them about
conversion treatments and primer applications as well.
John - $00.02
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sponcil
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 2:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Sponcil"
<bsponcil@belinblank.org>
Eric,
I didn't use proseal on my rudder and it came out really nice (IMHO of
course). I live in Iowa, but if I don't think I'd go for the proseal
even if
I lived on the coast. If corrosion is a big concern just do a nice job
of
primering.
-Brian
N211BD
#10497
www.n211bd.org <http://www.n211bd.org/>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 9:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
>
> I am on my way to Alexander to start my tail in a couple weeks. My
> question is whether or not I need to proseal the trailing edges, and
if
> so, is it even feasible at Alexander? I live in Baton Rouge, LA so
> humidity and moisture (read corrosion) are of concern. I would like to
> poll the audience and open the floodgates. I would love to hear what
most
> of you have done, especially any one else living in a coastal area or
that
> went to Alexander. Also if anyome has the first couple pages scanned
or
> emailable in someway that I can review before going it would be much
> appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Eric
Message 16
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
I don't think the plate itself is large enough to install platenuts. If I
were to do it over again, I would only hold the cable tiedown in place with
clecoes until I was fairly happy with the control settings and then use pop
rivets. I also plan to get the new aluminum cable anchors mentioned here
recently. Just me thinking out loud mostly, there are probably some better
ideas from those who have finished their machines.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:04 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: hugo rv10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Is this a good spot for platenuts instead of pop rivets?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 3:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: hugo rv10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Hugo,
I am far from finishing but may be able to help some. As for rigging
the controls, I think the reason you can get away with making the pushrod
tubes to final length is the kit is so consistent due to prepunching that
there is very little, if any, variance between airplanes. Since it is so
much easier to install some components prior to attaching the tailcone and
there is no real downside then it makes sense to do so.
Regarding the pitch trim, I just installed that this weekend and had to
remove the whole assembly because I put in a piece wrong. The lesson I
learned is that, while not much fun, you can remove the pitch trim system by
only removing the empennage fairing. You will also have to drill out the
trim cable mounts on the elevator access panel since (at least on mine) you
can't unthread the cable with the plate attached due to elevator
interference. Which is also why Van's has us pop rivet it on instead of
solid rivets. The good news is you do not have to remove any major
components.
Hope this helps, there may be better answers out there.
Marcus
40286
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gommone7@bellsouth.net
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 4:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: hugo rv10
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Here is a question for somebody allready finish the tail cone ,according
intructions I have to full rigged the control surfaces before connect the
tail cone to the fuselage /cabin.
Will not be more logic to do this after the complete fuselage is connected
,then the full alignement will be more accurate?
in another issue ,how the elevator trim motor can be service ,or replace if
is a problem with it ,from wath I can see ,need to dissy. the complete
controls surfaces to acces it.do I'm wrong.
Thanks for the time the guys ahead dedicated to instruct us, Hugo
Message 17
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I just got the new CNC cable anchors. I havn't done this yet but my plan
is to mount them to an .032 plate that is large enough to accept some #6
platenuts using flush rivets. I'll order new covers from Van's (already
drilled the old ones), and then match drill the platenuts/plate to the
new cover and then dimple the cover for #6 screws, that way the cable
anchors should be easily removable.
btw here's a link to some pics of the CNC cable anchors
http://deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/index.html
Deems Davis # 406
Wings 9finishing finally!)
http://deemsrv10.com/
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
>I don't think the plate itself is large enough to install platenuts. If I
>were to do it over again, I would only hold the cable tiedown in place with
>clecoes until I was fairly happy with the control settings and then use pop
>rivets. I also plan to get the new aluminum cable anchors mentioned here
>recently. Just me thinking out loud mostly, there are probably some better
>ideas from those who have finished their machines.
>
>Marcus
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
>Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:04 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: hugo rv10
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
>Is this a good spot for platenuts instead of pop rivets?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
>Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 3:50 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: hugo rv10
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
>Hugo,
> I am far from finishing but may be able to help some. As for rigging
>the controls, I think the reason you can get away with making the pushrod
>tubes to final length is the kit is so consistent due to prepunching that
>there is very little, if any, variance between airplanes. Since it is so
>much easier to install some components prior to attaching the tailcone and
>there is no real downside then it makes sense to do so.
>
>Regarding the pitch trim, I just installed that this weekend and had to
>remove the whole assembly because I put in a piece wrong. The lesson I
>learned is that, while not much fun, you can remove the pitch trim system by
>only removing the empennage fairing. You will also have to drill out the
>trim cable mounts on the elevator access panel since (at least on mine) you
>can't unthread the cable with the plate attached due to elevator
>interference. Which is also why Van's has us pop rivet it on instead of
>solid rivets. The good news is you do not have to remove any major
>components.
>
>Hope this helps, there may be better answers out there.
>
>Marcus
>40286
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>gommone7@bellsouth.net
>Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 4:58 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: hugo rv10
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
>Here is a question for somebody allready finish the tail cone ,according
>intructions I have to full rigged the control surfaces before connect the
>tail cone to the fuselage /cabin.
>Will not be more logic to do this after the complete fuselage is connected
>,then the full alignement will be more accurate?
>in another issue ,how the elevator trim motor can be service ,or replace if
>is a problem with it ,from wath I can see ,need to dissy. the complete
>controls surfaces to acces it.do I'm wrong.
>Thanks for the time the guys ahead dedicated to instruct us, Hugo
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Proseal on trailing edges? |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
Message 19
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|
Here is a recent accident report that might be related to losing trim. Maybe someone
on the list knows more about this.
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/GenPDF.asp?id=ATL06LA021&rpt=p
Niko
40188 Struggling with fuse side skins
----- Original Message ----
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 10:46:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I just got the new CNC cable anchors. I havn't done this yet but my plan
is to mount them to an .032 plate that is large enough to accept some #6
platenuts using flush rivets. I'll order new covers from Van's (already
drilled the old ones), and then match drill the platenuts/plate to the
new cover and then dimple the cover for #6 screws, that way the cable
anchors should be easily removable.
btw here's a link to some pics of the CNC cable anchors
http://deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/index.html
Deems Davis # 406
Wings 9finishing finally!)
http://deemsrv10.com/
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
>I don't think the plate itself is large enough to install platenuts. If I
>were to do it over again, I would only hold the cable tiedown in place with
>clecoes until I was fairly happy with the control settings and then use pop
>rivets. I also plan to get the new aluminum cable anchors mentioned here
>recently. Just me thinking out loud mostly, there are probably some better
>ideas from those who have finished their machines.
>
>Marcus
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
>Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:04 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: hugo rv10
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
>Is this a good spot for platenuts instead of pop rivets?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
>Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 3:50 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: hugo rv10
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
>Hugo,
> I am far from finishing but may be able to help some. As for rigging
>the controls, I think the reason you can get away with making the pushrod
>tubes to final length is the kit is so consistent due to prepunching that
>there is very little, if any, variance between airplanes. Since it is so
>much easier to install some components prior to attaching the tailcone and
>there is no real downside then it makes sense to do so.
>
>Regarding the pitch trim, I just installed that this weekend and had to
>remove the whole assembly because I put in a piece wrong. The lesson I
>learned is that, while not much fun, you can remove the pitch trim system by
>only removing the empennage fairing. You will also have to drill out the
>trim cable mounts on the elevator access panel since (at least on mine) you
>can't unthread the cable with the plate attached due to elevator
>interference. Which is also why Van's has us pop rivet it on instead of
>solid rivets. The good news is you do not have to remove any major
>components.
>
>Hope this helps, there may be better answers out there.
>
>Marcus
>40286
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>gommone7@bellsouth.net
>Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 4:58 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: hugo rv10
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
>Here is a question for somebody allready finish the tail cone ,according
>intructions I have to full rigged the control surfaces before connect the
>tail cone to the fuselage /cabin.
>Will not be more logic to do this after the complete fuselage is connected
>,then the full alignement will be more accurate?
>in another issue ,how the elevator trim motor can be service ,or replace if
>is a problem with it ,from wath I can see ,need to dissy. the complete
>controls surfaces to acces it.do I'm wrong.
>Thanks for the time the guys ahead dedicated to instruct us, Hugo
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Proseal on trailing edges? |
Weight !
----- Original Message -----
From: John Jessen
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 4:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
What's the big deal to prosealing the edges? Or, rather, what's the big deal
to NOT prosealing. Why would you not proseal? Other than the little mess?
Time involved?
John Jessen
~328
do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 8:29 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
There is another benefit to the proseal in the trailing edges in that one is
less likely to develop cracks in the trailing edge rivet holes. I have heard
that cracks in the trailing edges of RVs are not that uncommon. The proseal essentially
bonds the trailing edges together resulting in a more rubust structure.
Niko
----- Original Message ----
From: John W. Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 7:07:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Before dismissing the use of Proseal on trailing edge riveting, you
should have a comfort with the term "faying action" which is the
equivalent to the wicking of liquids between two solid objects. You did
say Louisiana. There is a reason that primers and topcoats use the
exposure to moisture and salt spray as the baseline test for protection.
Primer doesn't stop it with either skin overlaps or trailing edge
construction. If you really want to get granular you can also research
"hydrogen Embrittlement" while your learning.
Proseal is also excellent on the terminal ends and fasteners used to
complete the many bonding straps between movable control surfaces to the
main airframe. The bonding straps are used to release P static buildup
from dust or moisture in the air.
Alexander's should be a good source for answers to such questions.
Without resurrecting the discussion here you can ask them about
conversion treatments and primer applications as well.
John - $00.02
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sponcil
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 2:54 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Sponcil"
<bsponcil@belinblank.org>
Eric,
I didn't use proseal on my rudder and it came out really nice (IMHO of
course). I live in Iowa, but if I don't think I'd go for the proseal
even if
I lived on the coast. If corrosion is a big concern just do a nice job
of
primering.
-Brian
N211BD
#10497
www.n211bd.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 9:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
>
> I am on my way to Alexander to start my tail in a couple weeks. My
> question is whether or not I need to proseal the trailing edges, and
if
> so, is it even feasible at Alexander? I live in Baton Rouge, LA so
> humidity and moisture (read corrosion) are of concern. I would like to
> poll the audience and open the floodgates. I would love to hear what
most
> of you have done, especially any one else living in a coastal area or
that
> went to Alexander. Also if anyome has the first couple pages scanned
or
> emailable in someway that I can review before going it would be much
> appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Eric
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| Subject: | Re: Proseal on trailing edges? |
Rick from Vans there is no need to put it in!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 3:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
One thing that can be said for the proseal on the trailing edges, it fills the
area between the skins and any small gaps (minute but they do exist) that may
form after riveting. It can be sanded and painted and will help to provide a
better finished product, it doesn't weigh that much and I am happy I used it....and
It means I also followed the plans. That does mean something to me, for
my own piece of mind.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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