Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:02 AM - VS-1003 Countersinking (Michael Wellenzohn)
2. 05:30 AM - Re: Proseal on trailing edges? (Deems Davis)
3. 05:47 AM - Re: hugo rv10 (Jesse Saint)
4. 05:49 AM - Re: hugo rv10 (Jesse Saint)
5. 06:42 AM - See a built RV-10 (Conti, Rick)
6. 07:01 AM - Re: See a built RV-10 (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
7. 07:23 AM - Re: hugo rv10 (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
8. 07:27 AM - Re: See a built RV-10 (Conti, Rick)
9. 07:44 AM - Re: VS-1003 Countersinking (John Jessen)
10. 08:02 AM - Re: hugo rv10 (Jesse Saint)
11. 08:51 AM - Re: See a built RV-10 (DejaVu)
12. 08:55 AM - Re: hugo rv10 (DejaVu)
13. 09:30 AM - Re: VS-1003 Countersinking (Jeff Dalton)
14. 09:42 AM - Re: Cleaveland Covers (Mike Lauritsen - Work)
15. 03:01 PM - aerosol primer (jwik)
16. 03:17 PM - Re: aerosol primer (Dj Merrill)
17. 03:38 PM - Re: aerosol primer (John W. Cox)
18. 03:39 PM - Re: aerosol primer (John Dunne)
19. 04:07 PM - O-540-J1A5D Engine Core ()
20. 04:18 PM - Re: aerosol primer (Mani Ravee)
21. 04:22 PM - Re: aerosol primer (Mani Ravee)
22. 04:53 PM - Re: aerosol primer (Robert G. Wright)
23. 04:57 PM - Re: aerosol primer (Jeff Dalton)
24. 06:25 PM - Re: aerosol primer (Bill Schlatterer)
25. 07:23 PM - Eagle Air (Mark Drury)
26. 07:45 PM - Re: Eagle Air (Rick)
27. 09:01 PM - Center fuselage (Sean Blair)
Message 1
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| Subject: | VS-1003 Countersinking |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael@wellenzohn.net>
Hello, I am new to the list and started the VS for my -10.
Here is my question: I countersunk every second hole of the right flange of
the VS-1003 and I now the hole in the VS-1003 has the size that an AD3
rivet head fits just about through. the rear spar cap holes are still #40.
Will this be still ok to rivet the skin on?
Best Regards
Michael # 511
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Proseal on trailing edges? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
After Pro Sealing the Rudder, I elected to NOT Pro seal the remaining
trailing edges, not because of time or money or weight savings, but
because it is difficult to get an even application of Proseal across the
surfaces, and I was concerned the it could contribute to 'puckering' of
the skin between the rivets and lead to 'waves' in the final product.
When I heard that Van's did not feel it was structural. I eliminated it,
and use the Angle iron /alternating rivet heads approach.
Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/
Chris , Susie Darcy wrote:
> Weight !
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* John Jessen <mailto:jjessen@rcn.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 31, 2006 4:20 AM
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
>
> What's the big deal to prosealing the edges? Or, rather, what's
> the big deal to NOT prosealing. Why would you not proseal? Other
> than the little mess? Time involved?
>
> John Jessen
> ~328
>
> do not archive
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Nikolaos Napoli
> *Sent:* Monday, January 30, 2006 8:29 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
>
> There is another benefit to the proseal in the trailing edges in
> that one is less likely to develop cracks in the trailing edge
> rivet holes. I have heard that cracks in the trailing edges of
> RVs are not that uncommon. The proseal essentially bonds the
> trailing edges together resulting in a more rubust structure.
>
> Niko
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: John W. Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 7:07:19 PM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox"
> <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>
> Before dismissing the use of Proseal on trailing edge riveting, you
> should have a comfort with the term "faying action" which is the
> equivalent to the wicking of liquids between two solid objects.
> You did
> say Louisiana. There is a reason that primers and topcoats use the
> exposure to moisture and salt spray as the baseline test for
> protection.
>
> Primer doesn't stop it with either skin overlaps or trailing edge
> construction. If you really want to get granular you can also
> research
> "hydrogen Embrittlement" while your learning.
>
> Proseal is also excellent on the terminal ends and fasteners used to
> complete the many bonding straps between movable control surfaces
> to the
> main airframe. The bonding straps are used to release P static
> buildup
> from dust or moisture in the air.
>
> Alexander's should be a good source for answers to such questions.
> Without resurrecting the discussion here you can ask them about
> conversion treatments and primer applications as well.
>
> John - $00.02
> Do not Archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian
> Sponcil
> Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 2:54 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Sponcil"
> <bsponcil@belinblank.org>
> Eric,
>
> I didn't use proseal on my rudder and it came out really nice
> (IMHO of
> course). I live in Iowa, but if I don't think I'd go for the proseal
> even if
> I lived on the coast. If corrosion is a big concern just do a nice job
> of
> primering.
>
> -Brian
>
> N211BD
> #10497
> www.n211bd.org <http://www.n211bd.org/>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 9:21 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
> >
> > I am on my way to Alexander to start my tail in a couple weeks. My
> > question is whether or not I need to proseal the trailing edges, and
> if
> > so, is it even feasible at Alexander? I live in Baton Rouge, LA so
> > humidity and moisture (read corrosion) are of concern. I would
> like to
>
> > poll the audience and open the floodgates. I would love to hear what
> most
> > of you have done, especially any one else living in a coastal
> area or
> that
> > went to Alexander. Also if anyome has the first couple pages scanned
> or
> > emailable in someway that I can review before going it would be
> much
> > appreciated. Thanks.
> >
> > Eric
>
Message 3
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
We installed the trim after the tail was completely assembled on #40241, so
you can take it off as well. You can bend the trim cable enough to thread
the bracket on, at least we could, without drilling out the rivets. You
should just need to take of the emp fairing, like Marcus said.
I don't see any reason why you couldn't fit all of the tail surfaces to the
cone after it is assembled to the fuse. I am sure they have it in the plans
in that order because the EMP/CONE kit is first and that is part of it. I
can't think of any other way. I don't think it could be inaccurate just on
the cone, but it if it more convenient to do it later (ie, only assemble it
once when the plane it finished and painted), then I can't see any reason
not to. ANYBODY, please let me know if there is any reason that this would
not be the case, because I am planning on doing that on #40415 as well
unless there is a good reason not to.
On the trim motor mounting, if you want to put your ELT back there in the
tail, that trim mount can hold a couple of nut plates that will make the ELT
easier to install and remove when you get to that. This would be much
easier to do before all of the tail surfaces are installed.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gommone7@bellsouth.net
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 4:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: hugo rv10
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Here is a question for somebody allready finish the tail cone ,according
intructions I have to full rigged the control surfaces before connect the
tail cone to the fuselage /cabin.
Will not be more logic to do this after the complete fuselage is connected
,then the full alignement will be more accurate?
in another issue ,how the elevator trim motor can be service ,or replace if
is a problem with it ,from wath I can see ,need to dissy. the complete
controls surfaces to acces it.do I'm wrong.
Thanks for the time the guys ahead dedicated to instruct us, Hugo
Message 4
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Platenuts would be great if you can get them on there somehow that would
work. I don't know if you'd be able to get platenuts on the little
nut/bracket/plate/thingy. If you do, please send pictures.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:04 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: hugo rv10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Is this a good spot for platenuts instead of pop rivets?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 3:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: hugo rv10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Hugo,
I am far from finishing but may be able to help some. As for rigging
the controls, I think the reason you can get away with making the pushrod
tubes to final length is the kit is so consistent due to prepunching that
there is very little, if any, variance between airplanes. Since it is so
much easier to install some components prior to attaching the tailcone and
there is no real downside then it makes sense to do so.
Regarding the pitch trim, I just installed that this weekend and had to
remove the whole assembly because I put in a piece wrong. The lesson I
learned is that, while not much fun, you can remove the pitch trim system by
only removing the empennage fairing. You will also have to drill out the
trim cable mounts on the elevator access panel since (at least on mine) you
can't unthread the cable with the plate attached due to elevator
interference. Which is also why Van's has us pop rivet it on instead of
solid rivets. The good news is you do not have to remove any major
components.
Hope this helps, there may be better answers out there.
Marcus
40286
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gommone7@bellsouth.net
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 4:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: hugo rv10
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Here is a question for somebody allready finish the tail cone ,according
intructions I have to full rigged the control surfaces before connect the
tail cone to the fuselage /cabin.
Will not be more logic to do this after the complete fuselage is connected
,then the full alignement will be more accurate?
in another issue ,how the elevator trim motor can be service ,or replace if
is a problem with it ,from wath I can see ,need to dissy. the complete
controls surfaces to acces it.do I'm wrong.
Thanks for the time the guys ahead dedicated to instruct us, Hugo
Message 5
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| Subject: | See a built RV-10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
All,
I am at the point where seeing and photographing a completed RV-10 would
be a big plus. I am in Arlington, VA and would be interested in
visiting someone with a completed 10. Any volunteers?
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
Message 6
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| Subject: | See a built RV-10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
First week in April 325hp will be in the area.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:40 AM
Subject: RV10-List: See a built RV-10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
All,
I am at the point where seeing and photographing a completed RV-10 would
be a big plus. I am in Arlington, VA and would be interested in
visiting someone with a completed 10. Any volunteers?
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
Message 7
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
Why not ask the person that designed these to make the base a
little larger and have it drilled for 4 - #6 screws and nutplates. This
way it would be easily removed.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
Canopy on, painting interior this weekend.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I just got the new CNC cable anchors. I havn't done this yet but my plan
is to mount them to an .032 plate that is large enough to accept some #6
platenuts using flush rivets. I'll order new covers from Van's (already
drilled the old ones), and then match drill the platenuts/plate to the
new cover and then dimple the cover for #6 screws, that way the cable
anchors should be easily removable.
btw here's a link to some pics of the CNC cable anchors
http://deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/index.html
Deems Davis # 406
Wings 9finishing finally!)
http://deemsrv10.com/
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
>I don't think the plate itself is large enough to install platenuts.
If I
>were to do it over again, I would only hold the cable tiedown in place
with
>clecoes until I was fairly happy with the control settings and then use
pop
>rivets. I also plan to get the new aluminum cable anchors mentioned
here
>recently. Just me thinking out loud mostly, there are probably some
better
>ideas from those who have finished their machines.
>
>Marcus
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
>Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:04 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: hugo rv10
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
>Is this a good spot for platenuts instead of pop rivets?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus
Cooper
>Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 3:50 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: hugo rv10
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
>Hugo,
> I am far from finishing but may be able to help some. As for
rigging
>the controls, I think the reason you can get away with making the
pushrod
>tubes to final length is the kit is so consistent due to prepunching
that
>there is very little, if any, variance between airplanes. Since it is
so
>much easier to install some components prior to attaching the tailcone
and
>there is no real downside then it makes sense to do so.
>
>Regarding the pitch trim, I just installed that this weekend and had to
>remove the whole assembly because I put in a piece wrong. The lesson I
>learned is that, while not much fun, you can remove the pitch trim
system by
>only removing the empennage fairing. You will also have to drill out
the
>trim cable mounts on the elevator access panel since (at least on mine)
you
>can't unthread the cable with the plate attached due to elevator
>interference. Which is also why Van's has us pop rivet it on instead
of
>solid rivets. The good news is you do not have to remove any major
>components.
>
>Hope this helps, there may be better answers out there.
>
>Marcus
>40286
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>gommone7@bellsouth.net
>Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 4:58 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: hugo rv10
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
>Here is a question for somebody allready finish the tail cone
,according
>intructions I have to full rigged the control surfaces before connect
the
>tail cone to the fuselage /cabin.
>Will not be more logic to do this after the complete fuselage is
connected
>,then the full alignement will be more accurate?
>in another issue ,how the elevator trim motor can be service ,or
replace if
>is a problem with it ,from wath I can see ,need to dissy. the complete
>controls surfaces to acces it.do I'm wrong.
>Thanks for the time the guys ahead dedicated to instruct us, Hugo
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | See a built RV-10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
Great. I'd love to see your 10.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Noel & Yoshie Simmons [mailto:noel@blueskyaviation.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 10:00 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: See a built RV-10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons"
<noel@blueskyaviation.net>
First week in April 325hp will be in the area.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:40 AM
Subject: RV10-List: See a built RV-10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
All,
I am at the point where seeing and photographing a completed RV-10 would
be a big plus. I am in Arlington, VA and would be interested in
visiting someone with a completed 10. Any volunteers?
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
Message 9
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|
| Subject: | VS-1003 Countersinking |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Welcome! I've looked at the plans and cannot quite determine what step has
you countersink every second hole of the right flange of the VS-1003. And
did you machine countersink these holes? It sounds as if you are too deep.
Do you have any pictures?
John Jessen
~328 (Tailcone)
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 1:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: VS-1003 Countersinking
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Michael Wellenzohn"
--> <michael@wellenzohn.net>
Hello, I am new to the list and started the VS for my -10.
Here is my question: I countersunk every second hole of the right flange of
the VS-1003 and I now the hole in the VS-1003 has the size that an AD3 rivet
head fits just about through. the rear spar cap holes are still #40.
Will this be still ok to rivet the skin on?
Best Regards
Michael # 511
Message 10
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Or leave the base a little thicker to allow for machine countersinking and
tapping the holes for a screw.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 10:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: hugo rv10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
--> <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
Why not ask the person that designed these to make the base a little
larger and have it drilled for 4 - #6 screws and nutplates. This way it
would be easily removed.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
Canopy on, painting interior this weekend.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I just got the new CNC cable anchors. I havn't done this yet but my plan
is to mount them to an .032 plate that is large enough to accept some #6
platenuts using flush rivets. I'll order new covers from Van's (already
drilled the old ones), and then match drill the platenuts/plate to the new
cover and then dimple the cover for #6 screws, that way the cable anchors
should be easily removable.
btw here's a link to some pics of the CNC cable anchors
http://deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/index.html
Deems Davis # 406
Wings 9finishing finally!)
http://deemsrv10.com/
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
>I don't think the plate itself is large enough to install platenuts.
If I
>were to do it over again, I would only hold the cable tiedown in place
with
>clecoes until I was fairly happy with the control settings and then use
pop
>rivets. I also plan to get the new aluminum cable anchors mentioned
here
>recently. Just me thinking out loud mostly, there are probably some
better
>ideas from those who have finished their machines.
>
>Marcus
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
>Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:04 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: hugo rv10
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
>Is this a good spot for platenuts instead of pop rivets?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus
Cooper
>Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 3:50 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: hugo rv10
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
>Hugo,
> I am far from finishing but may be able to help some. As for
rigging
>the controls, I think the reason you can get away with making the
pushrod
>tubes to final length is the kit is so consistent due to prepunching
that
>there is very little, if any, variance between airplanes. Since it is
so
>much easier to install some components prior to attaching the tailcone
and
>there is no real downside then it makes sense to do so.
>
>Regarding the pitch trim, I just installed that this weekend and had to
>remove the whole assembly because I put in a piece wrong. The lesson I
>learned is that, while not much fun, you can remove the pitch trim
system by
>only removing the empennage fairing. You will also have to drill out
the
>trim cable mounts on the elevator access panel since (at least on mine)
you
>can't unthread the cable with the plate attached due to elevator
>interference. Which is also why Van's has us pop rivet it on instead
of
>solid rivets. The good news is you do not have to remove any major
>components.
>
>Hope this helps, there may be better answers out there.
>
>Marcus
>40286
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>gommone7@bellsouth.net
>Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 4:58 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: hugo rv10
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
>Here is a question for somebody allready finish the tail cone
,according
>intructions I have to full rigged the control surfaces before connect
the
>tail cone to the fuselage /cabin.
>Will not be more logic to do this after the complete fuselage is
connected
>,then the full alignement will be more accurate?
>in another issue ,how the elevator trim motor can be service ,or
replace if
>is a problem with it ,from wath I can see ,need to dissy. the complete
>controls surfaces to acces it.do I'm wrong.
>Thanks for the time the guys ahead dedicated to instruct us, Hugo
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Re: See a built RV-10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Rick,
Sorry we didn't connect that one time. I'm available on most weekends.
Just call before hand.
Anh
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 9:40 AM
Subject: RV10-List: See a built RV-10
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>
> All,
>
> I am at the point where seeing and photographing a completed RV-10 would
> be a big plus. I am in Arlington, VA and would be interested in
> visiting someone with a completed 10. Any volunteers?
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> Senior Engineering Manager
> The Boeing Company
> office: 703 - 414 - 6141
> blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
>
>
>
Message 12
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Seems like the singe-ear nutplates would work. I've seen nutplates having
two ears at 90deg to each other. Seems those would work also
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: hugo rv10
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
> <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
>
> Why not ask the person that designed these to make the base a
> little larger and have it drilled for 4 - #6 screws and nutplates. This
> way it would be easily removed.
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> 40250
> Canopy on, painting interior this weekend.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:46 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: hugo rv10
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> I just got the new CNC cable anchors. I havn't done this yet but my plan
>
> is to mount them to an .032 plate that is large enough to accept some #6
>
> platenuts using flush rivets. I'll order new covers from Van's (already
> drilled the old ones), and then match drill the platenuts/plate to the
> new cover and then dimple the cover for #6 screws, that way the cable
> anchors should be easily removable.
>
>
> btw here's a link to some pics of the CNC cable anchors
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/index.html
>
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Wings 9finishing finally!)
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>I don't think the plate itself is large enough to install platenuts.
> If I
>>were to do it over again, I would only hold the cable tiedown in place
> with
>>clecoes until I was fairly happy with the control settings and then use
> pop
>>rivets. I also plan to get the new aluminum cable anchors mentioned
> here
>>recently. Just me thinking out loud mostly, there are probably some
> better
>>ideas from those who have finished their machines.
>>
>>Marcus
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
>>Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:04 PM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: hugo rv10
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>>
>>Is this a good spot for platenuts instead of pop rivets?
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus
> Cooper
>>Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 3:50 PM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: hugo rv10
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>Hugo,
>> I am far from finishing but may be able to help some. As for
> rigging
>>the controls, I think the reason you can get away with making the
> pushrod
>>tubes to final length is the kit is so consistent due to prepunching
> that
>>there is very little, if any, variance between airplanes. Since it is
> so
>>much easier to install some components prior to attaching the tailcone
> and
>>there is no real downside then it makes sense to do so.
>>
>>Regarding the pitch trim, I just installed that this weekend and had to
>>remove the whole assembly because I put in a piece wrong. The lesson I
>>learned is that, while not much fun, you can remove the pitch trim
> system by
>>only removing the empennage fairing. You will also have to drill out
> the
>>trim cable mounts on the elevator access panel since (at least on mine)
> you
>>can't unthread the cable with the plate attached due to elevator
>>interference. Which is also why Van's has us pop rivet it on instead
> of
>>solid rivets. The good news is you do not have to remove any major
>>components.
>>
>>Hope this helps, there may be better answers out there.
>>
>>Marcus
>>40286
>>
>>Do Not Archive
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>>gommone7@bellsouth.net
>>Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 4:58 PM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RV10-List: hugo rv10
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>Here is a question for somebody allready finish the tail cone
> ,according
>>intructions I have to full rigged the control surfaces before connect
> the
>>tail cone to the fuselage /cabin.
>>Will not be more logic to do this after the complete fuselage is
> connected
>>,then the full alignement will be more accurate?
>>in another issue ,how the elevator trim motor can be service ,or
> replace if
>>is a problem with it ,from wath I can see ,need to dissy. the complete
>>controls surfaces to acces it.do I'm wrong.
>>Thanks for the time the guys ahead dedicated to instruct us, Hugo
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: VS-1003 Countersinking |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77@comcast.net>
I just went through this step. I'm not sure what you mean by every second
hole - the way I interpeted the manual was to countersink a subset of the
holes on V-1003, dimple another group, and finally leave some of another
group of holes alone.
I was also worried about the countersinks being too deep because the
aluminum is pretty thin - I thought they looked too deep AND needed
different rivet.
The instructions say to be sure to make the countersinks are deep enough to
accept the dimple in the skin. I then realized that the countersunk holes
are used to connect the skin, the V-1003, AND the spar caps all together,
and the rivet will not be squeezed behind VS-1003 but behind the spar cap,
which is not dimpled or countersunk. That made me feel better about the
countersink appearing too big. The spar cap is designed to support the
assembly.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 10:42 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: VS-1003 Countersinking
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> Welcome! I've looked at the plans and cannot quite determine what step
> has
> you countersink every second hole of the right flange of the VS-1003. And
> did you machine countersink these holes? It sounds as if you are too
> deep.
> Do you have any pictures?
>
> John Jessen
> ~328 (Tailcone)
>
> do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
> Wellenzohn
> Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 1:58 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: VS-1003 Countersinking
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Michael Wellenzohn"
> --> <michael@wellenzohn.net>
>
> Hello, I am new to the list and started the VS for my -10.
> Here is my question: I countersunk every second hole of the right flange
> of
> the VS-1003 and I now the hole in the VS-1003 has the size that an AD3
> rivet
> head fits just about through. the rear spar cap holes are still #40.
> Will this be still ok to rivet the skin on?
>
> Best Regards
> Michael # 511
>
>
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Cleaveland Covers |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike@cleavelandtool.com>
We finally have a price for the RV10 canopy cover. This will be a
lightweight travel cover like the others we offer. Weight is 2.6# and color
is grey (if we have enough demand we can get tan also.) The cost is $245
and we will have them at the end of February. We are ordering enough for
what we think will be the first few months.
If you place an order by Thursday we will give you a one time 15% price
break ($208.25) just so we can "outguess" the initial surge of orders. To
order or view photo go to:
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=RVCC10
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
Message 15
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: jwik <jwik@crary.com>
Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
aerosol primer that works well.. In speaking with one of the leaders at
a Sport-Air workshop last weekend, he recomended the exact same product.
In calling around today, I can't find any local Sherwin Williams
dealers (Fargo ND) who know anything about it, nor do they seem too
interested in investigating it for me.
Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to order?
Thanks:
Jay Wik: early on in with the Empennage kit.
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: aerosol primer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
jwik wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: jwik <jwik@crary.com>
>
> Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
> Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to order?
Hi Jay,
I buy it online here:
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=7565>
-Dj
Message 17
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|
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=3D756
5&cat=3D43>
GBP 988 Self Etching Primer in Aerosol
John - $00.02
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jwik
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 2:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: aerosol primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: jwik <jwik@crary.com>
Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
aerosol primer that works well.. In speaking with one of the leaders at
a Sport-Air workshop last weekend, he recomended the exact same
product.
In calling around today, I can't find any local Sherwin Williams
dealers (Fargo ND) who know anything about it, nor do they seem too
interested in investigating it for me.
Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to
order?
Thanks:
Jay Wik: early on in with the Empennage kit.
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 18
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Dunne" <acs@acspropeller.com.au>
Try Aviall (aviall.com) Head Office in Dallas. I think they are
distributors.
John
40315
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jwik
Sent: Wednesday, 1 February 2006 8:57 AM
Subject: RV10-List: aerosol primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: jwik <jwik@crary.com>
Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
aerosol primer that works well.. In speaking with one of the leaders at
a Sport-Air workshop last weekend, he recomended the exact same product.
In calling around today, I can't find any local Sherwin Williams
dealers (Fargo ND) who know anything about it, nor do they seem too
interested in investigating it for me.
Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to order?
Thanks:
Jay Wik: early on in with the Empennage kit.
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | O-540-J1A5D Engine Core |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
I had pursued several contacts for an engine and ended up with both an IO-540-C4B5
(1100 Hours) and a O-540-J1A5D core.
I am looking to sell the O-540-J1A5D core. If there is anyone interested, please
contact me off list. I am located in Lexington, Ky.
Thanks, Jim Combs
N312F
40192 - Fuselage
Message 20
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|
I have had very good results with the Dupont self etching primer in an
aerosol can. Also the SEM which is a tad cheaper. They are both available in
green or grey from automotive paint supply shops. See attached pic.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jwik
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 5:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: aerosol primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: jwik <jwik@crary.com>
Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
aerosol primer that works well.. In speaking with one of the leaders at
a Sport-Air workshop last weekend, he recomended the exact same product.
In calling around today, I can't find any local Sherwin Williams
dealers (Fargo ND) who know anything about it, nor do they seem too
interested in investigating it for me.
Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to order?
Thanks:
Jay Wik: early on in with the Empennage kit.
Message 21
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
John, link no worky. :(
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 6:37 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: aerosol primer
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=756
5&cat=43>
GBP 988 Self Etching Primer in Aerosol
John - $00.02
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jwik
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 2:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: aerosol primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: jwik <jwik@crary.com>
Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
aerosol primer that works well.. In speaking with one of the leaders at
a Sport-Air workshop last weekend, he recomended the exact same
product.
In calling around today, I can't find any local Sherwin Williams
dealers (Fargo ND) who know anything about it, nor do they seem too
interested in investigating it for me.
Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to
order?
Thanks:
Jay Wik: early on in with the Empennage kit.
====================================
====================================
====================================
Message 22
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
Jay,
I use SW988. No, the local SW interior paint dealers in my town didn't know
what I was talking about either, but they could provide MSDS and spec sheets
on it. Just down the road and around the corner I get my supply from the
Paint and Industrial supply company. You need to find a company that stocks
automotive and other industrial paints; any decent sized town should have
one. I ask for mine at the counter. They have to go into their warehouse
to get it. It's not on the showroom shelves, but they know exactly what I'm
asking for when I say, "I need some Sherwin Williams 988." I get a slight
discount when I buy a case (12 cans). Any little bit helps!
Rob
#392 riveting tailcone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jwik
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 4:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: aerosol primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: jwik <jwik@crary.com>
Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
aerosol primer that works well.. In speaking with one of the leaders at
a Sport-Air workshop last weekend, he recomended the exact same product.
In calling around today, I can't find any local Sherwin Williams
dealers (Fargo ND) who know anything about it, nor do they seem too
interested in investigating it for me.
Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to order?
Thanks:
Jay Wik: early on in with the Empennage kit.
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: aerosol primer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77@comcast.net>
I'm using the dupont rattle can on my VS and rudder now at it is working out
just fine. $4.00 a can from Murrays Discount Auto. It's green,
self-etching primer.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: aerosol primer
>I have had very good results with the Dupont self etching primer in an
> aerosol can. Also the SEM which is a tad cheaper. They are both available
> in
> green or grey from automotive paint supply shops. See attached pic.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jwik
> Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 5:57 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: aerosol primer
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: jwik <jwik@crary.com>
>
> Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
> aerosol primer that works well.. In speaking with one of the leaders at
> a Sport-Air workshop last weekend, he recomended the exact same product.
>
> In calling around today, I can't find any local Sherwin Williams
> dealers (Fargo ND) who know anything about it, nor do they seem too
> interested in investigating it for me.
>
> Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to order?
>
>
> Thanks:
>
> Jay Wik: early on in with the Empennage kit.
>
>
>
Message 24
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
7220 NAPA primer is the same product packaged by SW for NAPA, slightly
different color. Any local NAPA store. Better yet 4115S Dupont self-etching
primer is available from any Dupont Automotive Refinish Store, check the
yellow pages. The advantage to the 4115s is that it is a new product and
actually has some corrosion protection designed in. Some, not much!
Bill S
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jwik
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 4:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: aerosol primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: jwik <jwik@crary.com>
Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an aerosol
primer that works well.. In speaking with one of the leaders at a Sport-Air
workshop last weekend, he recomended the exact same product.
In calling around today, I can't find any local Sherwin Williams dealers
(Fargo ND) who know anything about it, nor do they seem too interested in
investigating it for me.
Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to order?
Thanks:
Jay Wik: early on in with the Empennage kit.
Message 25
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This is a warning for all of you when you get your kits transported. If you receive
your kit and it has ANY sort of visible damage to the crate DO NOT ACCEPT
IT. I have been caught out badly. My empennage kit turned up while I was at work
and my wife signed for it. When I got home it was obvious a forklift had put
the tynes straight through the side of the box. When I opened the box the skins
for the tailcone were both damaged. I rang the transport company who asked
me to get a quote. Vans provided me with a quote, but, for reasons only known
by them actually sent the replacement skins!! A couple a weeks later I get a
phone call saying your shipment from Vans has arrived when would you like it
(I live in Australia so everything we order has to go through customs before the
transport company can send it). So, after parting with $850 just for the transport
of two skins I accepted them.
To cut a long story short.... six months later the best Eagle Air can do to compensate
me for the damage is to give me a cheque for $250 to cover the cost of
the parts. So I'm $850 out of pocket for damage that was totally the fault of
the transport company. Upset?? Understatement.
So.... do not accept your kits if there is any external damage, do not under any
circumstances use Eagle Global, that's EAGLE GLOBAL TRANSPORT, E.A.G.L.E. G.L.O.B.A.L,
and if you are an Australian do not use NQX Transport. And if you get
a quote from Van's, ask them not to ship it. Der!!
Once again, I must not use EAGLE GLOBAL,
......I must not use EAGLE GLOBAL,
......I must not use EAGLE GLOBAL,
......I must not use EAGLE GLOBAL,
......I must not use EAGLE GLOBAL,
Mark Drury
Cairns, Australia
Builder 40436
Message 26
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Message 27
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I'm confused... I'm currently riveting the bottom skins on the center
fuselage and if you take a look at the rivet callout, Section 26, page 8, it
shows rivets on the leading edge of the F-1077 skin, and nothing on the
mating trailing end of the F-1076 skin. To me this is backward considering
the overlap should be with air flow and not against it. The previous page
seems correct with the F-1076 on top of the F-1077. This is just the
opposite of the rivet callout page. Is my thinking correct?
Thanks!
Sean Blair
#40225
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