Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:10 AM - Interior paint (McGANN, Ron)
2. 04:28 AM - Re: Center fuselage (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
3. 05:46 AM - Re: Eagle Air (Gary Specketer)
4. 06:27 AM - Re: aerosol primer (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
5. 06:36 AM - TruTrak Pitch Reverse (Tim Olson)
6. 08:49 AM - Re: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core (sam.marlow@adelphia.net)
7. 12:43 PM - Tailcone longeron alignment (Bill and Tami Britton)
8. 01:02 PM - Re: Tailcone longeron alignment (Bill and Tami Britton)
9. 01:28 PM - Re: aerosol primer (jwik)
10. 01:30 PM - next tailcone question (Bill and Tami Britton)
11. 01:33 PM - Re: Tailcone longeron alignment (Tim Olson)
12. 01:42 PM - Re: Tailcone longeron alignment (Bill and Tami Britton)
13. 01:53 PM - Re: next tailcone question (James Hein)
14. 01:58 PM - Re: next tailcone question (Randy DeBauw)
15. 02:05 PM - Re: Tailcone longeron alignment (Rene Felker)
16. 02:23 PM - Re: Super Duper Weight & Balance (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
17. 02:32 PM - Re: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core (Russell Daves)
18. 02:45 PM - Re: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core (sam.marlow@adelphia.net)
19. 02:53 PM - Re: next tailcone question (Bill and Tami Britton)
20. 03:10 PM - Re: Re: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core ()
21. 03:29 PM - v speeds (Chris Johnston)
22. 04:15 PM - Re: aerosol primer (Mani Ravee)
23. 05:00 PM - Re: Re: Super Duper Weight & Balance (Ted on RV list)
24. 05:50 PM - Re: Re: Tailcone longeron alignment ()
25. 06:18 PM - Re: Re: Super Duper Weight & Balance (Dj Merrill)
26. 08:01 PM - Zaon Traffic System (Brinker)
27. 08:59 PM - website problem??? (Bill and Tami Britton)
28. 09:24 PM - Appears to be a great adhesive. (John Gonzalez)
29. 09:24 PM - Re: Tailcone longeron alignment (Tim Olson)
30. 09:36 PM - Big tip on connecting the elevator trim (Tim Olson)
31. 09:52 PM - Batteries (Bill and Tami Britton)
32. 10:14 PM - 3 ring binder for manual (Chris Hukill)
Message 1
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I am planning my internal paint process for the fuse. I have used Valspar Super
Anzapon fluid resistant primer for corrosion protection on all bits so far and
have been delighted with the results. However, because this paint is fluid
resistant and does not need a topcoat (like most primers), I am curious to know
how the primer is treated to accept a final coloured topcoat. Does anyone
have any experience with topcoating these fluid resistant 'primers'?
thanks in advance,
Ron
#187
Message 2
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Sean,
I think this is just how they did the rivet picture. You are correct in going
with the assembly picture on 26-7.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 10:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Center fuselage
I'm confused....... I'm currently riveting the bottom skins on the center fuselage
and if you take a look at the rivet callout, Section 26, page 8, it shows
rivets on the leading edge of the F-1077 skin, and nothing on the mating trailing
end of the F-1076 skin. To me this is backward considering the overlap should
be with air flow and not against it. The previous page seems correct with
the F-1076 on top of the F-1077. This is just the opposite of the rivet callout
page. Is my thinking correct?
Thanks!
Sean Blair
#40225
Message 3
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I had this problem when I was in business. Our freight rep told us to sign
for x # of packages uninspected freight. So if there is dammage you can
call the inspector fro the freight company and file a claim. If you sign as
uninspected you are not agreeing to the boilerplate on the bill of lading
that says the you recieved it in good condition. Drivers hate it when you
sign like that, but tough.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Eagle Air
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
Mark,
Sorry to hear but hopefully being able to vent makes some of the pain go
away...at least Van's came through and sent new skins...
I know several of us have our cameras at the ready when the delivery
arrives, never let the driver go until you verify no damages and document
ALL damages found. If I were you I'd hit your wife up for the $850...It's
all her fault!!! JUST KIDDING! :)
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Dto
and much
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D-Matt
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 4
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
You can also get it at Napa, it is made by SW and relabeled for Napa, it
is 7220 self etching primer
Dan
40269
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: aerosol primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
jwik wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: jwik <jwik@crary.com>
>
> Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
> Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to
order?
Hi Jay,
I buy it online here:
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=756
5>
-Dj
Message 5
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| Subject: | TruTrak Pitch Reverse |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Just a head's up on wiring your TruTrak Digiflight II.
I called TruTrak today to verify before I power up my AP servos
if you need to swap wires to change direction on the roll servo,
or if you need to install the pitch reverse jumper. (I wanted
to know for an RV-10 specific install) The answer was "No"
regarding the roll swap, but yes regarding the pitch reverse.
That should save you from having to experiment and then find
it's wrong the first time.
Tim
PS: final assy. items are becoming a short list very quickly.
I may have to move that inspection date up. Oh darn. ;)
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Final Assembly
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core |
Cc: jim@CombsFive.Com
--> RV10-List message posted by: sam.marlow@adelphia.net
Hey Jim, what did the J1A5D come out of?
---- jim@CombsFive.Com wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
>
> I had pursued several contacts for an engine and ended up with both an IO-540-C4B5
(1100 Hours) and a O-540-J1A5D core.
>
> I am looking to sell the O-540-J1A5D core. If there is anyone interested, please
contact me off list. I am located in Lexington, Ky.
>
> Thanks, Jim Combs
> N312F
> 40192 - Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Tailcone longeron alignment |
On page 10-11 step 1 you clamp the longeron in place. The apex (corner) of the
longeron is flush with both the F1073 side skins and the F1014 aft deck. Aligning
between the longeron and side skin is good but I'm having trouble getting
the longeron to align perfectly with the F1014 aft deck. Towards the center
of the aft deck (near where the longeron bend is) is where I start to have the
problem. It is within 1/8" in this area and good on the ends (ends of the aft
deck that is). I can force it a little closer than this (and actually all
the way flush) with pretty good force. My question is: is it absolutely necessary
to have it completely flush with the aft deck all the way along it??? Did
anybody else have this problem??? If it needs to be completely flush, how much
force is OK to use before I have to start bending on the longeron???
Bill Britton
RV-10 tailcone
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Tailcone longeron alignment |
I checked the measurements and it is only off by 1/16, not 1/8". The misalignment
spans about 7 to 8 inches long and is worst (about 1/16) in the center of
the span. Attached are a couple pictures to help describe my problem. If it's
left this way will it affect the way the top skins line up later, or possibly
anything else???
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 2:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone longeron alignment
On page 10-11 step 1 you clamp the longeron in place. The apex (corner) of the
longeron is flush with both the F1073 side skins and the F1014 aft deck. Aligning
between the longeron and side skin is good but I'm having trouble getting
the longeron to align perfectly with the F1014 aft deck. Towards the center
of the aft deck (near where the longeron bend is) is where I start to have
the problem. It is within 1/8" in this area and good on the ends (ends of the
aft deck that is). I can force it a little closer than this (and actually all
the way flush) with pretty good force. My question is: is it absolutely necessary
to have it completely flush with the aft deck all the way along it???
Did anybody else have this problem??? If it needs to be completely flush, how
much force is OK to use before I have to start bending on the longeron???
Bill Britton
RV-10 tailcone
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: aerosol primer |
Great help!
Found the NAPA 7220 easily and will look into the other options as well!
Thanks all!
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>
>You can also get it at Napa, it is made by SW and relabeled for Napa, it
>is 7220 self etching primer
>Dan
>40269
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
>Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 6:17 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: aerosol primer
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
>
>jwik wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: jwik <jwik@crary.com>
>>
>>Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to
>>
>>
>order?
>
>Hi Jay,
> I buy it online here:
><http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=756
>5>
>
>-Dj
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | next tailcone question |
On page 10-11 step 2 it says to match drill the holes common to the side skins
and the F1032 longerons with a 1/8" drill. The holes in the skins are small holes
that have all been drilled to 3/32 so far. The instructions later on show
the skins in the holes to be riveted on with AN426AD3-6 rivets. Do I use a
3/32" or 1/8" drill??? Am I missing something completely???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Tailcone
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Tailcone longeron alignment |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
It doesn't look too awful bad. The only thing that makes
it look questionable....and not really too questionable, is
the hole edge distance you'll have when you drill those
rivets into the longerons. If you measure and see the edge
distance is appropriate, then you'll be OK. If it were me,
I'd try to clamp or push it and match drill it when it's lined
up along the edge. But, after now having assembled the tail
I can't see any big reason why your situation would cause anything
too major down the road.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current section: Final Assembly
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> I checked the measurements and it is only off by 1/16, not 1/8". The
> misalignment spans about 7 to 8 inches long and is worst (about 1/16) in
> the center of the span. Attached are a couple pictures to help describe
> my problem. If it's left this way will it affect the way the top skins
> line up later, or possibly anything else???
>
> Bill
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Bill and Tami Britton <mailto:william@gbta.net>
> *To:* RV10-list@matronics.com <mailto:RV10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 01, 2006 2:40 PM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Tailcone longeron alignment
>
> On page 10-11 step 1 you clamp the longeron in place. The apex
> (corner) of the longeron is flush with both the F1073 side skins and
> the F1014 aft deck. Aligning between the longeron and side skin is
> good but I'm having trouble getting the longeron to align perfectly
> with the F1014 aft deck. Towards the center of the aft deck (near
> where the longeron bend is) is where I start to have the problem.
> It is within 1/8" in this area and good on the ends (ends of the aft
> deck that is). I can force it a little closer than this (and
> actually all the way flush) with pretty good force. My question is:
> is it absolutely necessary to have it completely flush with the aft
> deck all the way along it??? Did anybody else have this problem???
> If it needs to be completely flush, how much force is OK to use
> before I have to start bending on the longeron???
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 tailcone
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Tailcone longeron alignment |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
I can clamp it and get the straightness required but it takes lots of force
to get it that straight. Will this force be a problem??? I don't like to
put things together under stress, and this would definitely be under some
stress.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tailcone longeron alignment
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> It doesn't look too awful bad. The only thing that makes
> it look questionable....and not really too questionable, is
> the hole edge distance you'll have when you drill those
> rivets into the longerons. If you measure and see the edge
> distance is appropriate, then you'll be OK. If it were me,
> I'd try to clamp or push it and match drill it when it's lined
> up along the edge. But, after now having assembled the tail
> I can't see any big reason why your situation would cause anything
> too major down the road.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current section: Final Assembly
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
>> I checked the measurements and it is only off by 1/16, not 1/8". The
>> misalignment spans about 7 to 8 inches long and is worst (about 1/16) in
>> the center of the span. Attached are a couple pictures to help describe
>> my problem. If it's left this way will it affect the way the top skins
>> line up later, or possibly anything else???
>> Bill
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* Bill and Tami Britton <mailto:william@gbta.net>
>> *To:* RV10-list@matronics.com <mailto:RV10-list@matronics.com>
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 01, 2006 2:40 PM
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Tailcone longeron alignment
>>
>> On page 10-11 step 1 you clamp the longeron in place. The apex
>> (corner) of the longeron is flush with both the F1073 side skins and
>> the F1014 aft deck. Aligning between the longeron and side skin is
>> good but I'm having trouble getting the longeron to align perfectly
>> with the F1014 aft deck. Towards the center of the aft deck (near
>> where the longeron bend is) is where I start to have the problem. It
>> is within 1/8" in this area and good on the ends (ends of the aft
>> deck that is). I can force it a little closer than this (and
>> actually all the way flush) with pretty good force. My question is:
>> is it absolutely necessary to have it completely flush with the aft
>> deck all the way along it??? Did anybody else have this problem???
>> If it needs to be completely flush, how much force is OK to use
>> before I have to start bending on the longeron???
>> Bill Britton
>> RV-10 tailcone
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: next tailcone question |
I have plans revision 11/3/03 of that page, and step 2 says 3/32". (see
attachment)
-Jim 40384
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> On page 10-11 step 2 it says to match drill the holes common to the
> side skins and the F1032 longerons with a 1/8" drill. The holes in
> the skins are small holes that have all been drilled to 3/32 so far.
> The instructions later on show the skins in the holes to be riveted on
> with AN426AD3-6 rivets. Do I use a 3/32" or 1/8" drill??? Am I
> missing something completely???
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Tailcone
Message 14
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| Subject: | next tailcone question |
Bill, I found that mistake on the plans 2 years ago. Call Tom Green and
he sent a letter to all of the early builders. There are several updates
to the plans that you will need to get if you don't have them. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 1:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: next tailcone question
On page 10-11 step 2 it says to match drill the holes common to the side
skins and the F1032 longerons with a 1/8" drill. The holes in the skins
are small holes that have all been drilled to 3/32 so far. The
instructions later on show the skins in the holes to be riveted on with
AN426AD3-6 rivets. Do I use a 3/32" or 1/8" drill??? Am I missing
something completely???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Tailcone
Message 15
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| Subject: | Tailcone longeron alignment |
I had the same problem, mine was less than 1/16 so I just riveted it, I did
not put it under a lot of tension to get it closer.
Rene' Felker
40322
Fuselage
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tailcone longeron alignment
I checked the measurements and it is only off by 1/16, not 1/8". The
misalignment spans about 7 to 8 inches long and is worst (about 1/16) in the
center of the span. Attached are a couple pictures to help describe my
problem. If it's left this way will it affect the way the top skins line up
later, or possibly anything else???
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton <mailto:william@gbta.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 2:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone longeron alignment
On page 10-11 step 1 you clamp the longeron in place. The apex (corner) of
the longeron is flush with both the F1073 side skins and the F1014 aft deck.
Aligning between the longeron and side skin is good but I'm having trouble
getting the longeron to align perfectly with the F1014 aft deck. Towards
the center of the aft deck (near where the longeron bend is) is where I
start to have the problem. It is within 1/8" in this area and good on the
ends (ends of the aft deck that is). I can force it a little closer than
this (and actually all the way flush) with pretty good force. My question
is: is it absolutely necessary to have it completely flush with the aft deck
all the way along it??? Did anybody else have this problem??? If it needs
to be completely flush, how much force is OK to use before I have to start
bending on the longeron???
Bill Britton
RV-10 tailcone
Message 16
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| Subject: | RE: Super Duper Weight & Balance |
Gents (& ladies?):
Another fellow in my office who is the resident Excel guru has put
together a real nice W&B spreadsheet. You are welcome to use it - just
enter your aircraft information. It can accommodate data for up to 6
aircraft.
Enjoy! Anyone who wants to post this on a site is welcome, too.
TDT
40025
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
It came out of a Maule. I helped the owner of the engine sell it to Jim.
Russ Daves
----- Original Message -----
From: <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
Cc: <jim@CombsFive.Com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core
> --> RV10-List message posted by: sam.marlow@adelphia.net
>
> Hey Jim, what did the J1A5D come out of?
> ---- jim@CombsFive.Com wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
>>
>> I had pursued several contacts for an engine and ended up with both an
>> IO-540-C4B5 (1100 Hours) and a O-540-J1A5D core.
>>
>> I am looking to sell the O-540-J1A5D core. If there is anyone
>> interested, please contact me off list. I am located in Lexington, Ky.
>>
>> Thanks, Jim Combs
>> N312F
>> 40192 - Fuselage
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core |
Cc: Russell Daves <dav1111@cox.net>
--> RV10-List message posted by: sam.marlow@adelphia.net
Does it have a govoner pad on the nose case?
---- Russell Daves <dav1111@cox.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
>
> It came out of a Maule. I helped the owner of the engine sell it to Jim.
>
> Russ Daves
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Cc: <jim@CombsFive.Com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 10:46 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: sam.marlow@adelphia.net
> >
> > Hey Jim, what did the J1A5D come out of?
> > ---- jim@CombsFive.Com wrote:
> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
> >>
> >> I had pursued several contacts for an engine and ended up with both an
> >> IO-540-C4B5 (1100 Hours) and a O-540-J1A5D core.
> >>
> >> I am looking to sell the O-540-J1A5D core. If there is anyone
> >> interested, please contact me off list. I am located in Lexington, Ky.
> >>
> >> Thanks, Jim Combs
> >> N312F
> >> 40192 - Fuselage
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Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: next tailcone question |
Thanks for the heads up. I'm glad I caught it BEFORE I drilled. As for the updates,
where can I find them. Are all of them listed on the Vans website or do
I look elsewhere??
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 3:56 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: next tailcone question
Bill, I found that mistake on the plans 2 years ago. Call Tom Green and he sent
a letter to all of the early builders. There are several updates to the plans
that you will need to get if you don't have them. Randy
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 1:29 PM
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: next tailcone question
On page 10-11 step 2 it says to match drill the holes common to the side skins
and the F1032 longerons with a 1/8" drill. The holes in the skins are small
holes that have all been drilled to 3/32 so far. The instructions later on show
the skins in the holes to be riveted on with AN426AD3-6 rivets. Do I use
a 3/32" or 1/8" drill??? Am I missing something completely???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Tailcone
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
Yes, and there is a prop governor attached. I don't know what type governor it
is. It looks different than the one on the C4B5. I will check tomorrow.
I am hoping that any prop governor will work with any hydralic prop? This is all
new to me.
Comparing the two engines from an external point of view the only difference appears
to be the accessory case on the rear. The same parts are there, but located
in slighty different areas of the accessory case.
Thanks, Jim C
============================================================
From: sam.marlow@adelphia.net
CC: Russell Daves <dav1111@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core
--> RV10-List message posted by: sam.marlow@adelphia.net
Does it have a govoner pad on the nose case?
---- Russell Daves <dav1111@cox.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
>
> It came out of a Maule. I helped the owner of the engine sell it to Jim.
>
> Russ Daves
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Cc: <jim@CombsFive.Com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 10:46 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: sam.marlow@adelphia.net
> >
> > Hey Jim, what did the J1A5D come out of?
> > ---- jim@CombsFive.Com wrote:
> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
> >>
> >> I had pursued several contacts for an engine and ended up with both an
> >> IO-540-C4B5 (1100 Hours) and a O-540-J1A5D core.
> >>
> >> I am looking to sell the O-540-J1A5D core. If there is anyone
> >> interested, please contact me off list. I am located in Lexington, Ky.
> >>
> >> Thanks, Jim Combs
> >> N312F
> >> 40192 - Fuselage
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Message 21
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Hey all -
I was just wandering through the archives looking for info on v
speeds for the RV-10. There were a couple spreadsheets that you can't
link to anymore, but I think most of them were weight & balance related.
Just wondering if someone would post v speeds so I can get an idea of
the ballpark. I'm not looking for "the definitive answer", just an
approximate. Maybe those of you flying could chime in?
Thanks
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
Message 22
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I would still look for a local source for the Dupont primer in an aerosol
form ( see pic in my original post). Good company which has brought out a
very competitive product. Body shop and painting folks trust products from
Dupont. I have used it and like it so far. Not to belittle SW. My Cessna
now, I chose to go with all SW products and have Get glow paint and primers
on it when we stripped and completely redid it. So there. But then its ONLY
A CESSNA !!! :-)
Mani
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jwik
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: aerosol primer
Great help!
Found the NAPA 7220 easily and will look into the other options as well!
Thanks all!
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R."
<mailto:LloydDR@wernerco.com> <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
You can also get it at Napa, it is made by SW and relabeled for Napa, it
is 7220 self etching primer
Dan
40269
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: aerosol primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <mailto:deej@deej.net>
<deej@deej.net>
jwik wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: jwik <mailto:jwik@crary.com>
<jwik@crary.com>
Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to
order?
Hi Jay,
I buy it online here:
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=7565>
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=756
5 <http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=7565>
>
-Dj
Message 23
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| Subject: | RE: Super Duper Weight & Balance |
Maybe I'm missing something, but when I try to do anything with this
spreadsheety, I can't cause its all protected and needs a password.
Do Not Archive
Ted French
RV-10 fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: February 1, 2006 2:22 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: RE: Super Duper Weight & Balance
Gents (& ladies?):
Another fellow in my office who is the resident Excel guru has put
together a real nice W&B spreadsheet. You are welcome to use it - just
enter your aircraft information. It can accommodate data for up to 6
aircraft.
Enjoy! Anyone who wants to post this on a site is welcome, too.
TDT
40025
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Tailcone longeron alignment |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Hi, bill ,Hugo here.if you do not seat flush with the skin I thinks will change
the angle of attack of the horizontal stabilizer,the piece cost only 15 box,and
shipp.by air is very cheap(look I now the problem Ah-h)
Hugo
>
> From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
> Date: 2006/02/01 Wed PM 04:00:50 EST
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tailcone longeron alignment
>
> I checked the measurements and it is only off by 1/16, not 1/8". The misalignment
spans about 7 to 8 inches long and is worst (about 1/16) in the center of
the span. Attached are a couple pictures to help describe my problem. If it's
left this way will it affect the way the top skins line up later, or possibly
anything else???
>
> Bill
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bill and Tami Britton
> To: RV10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 2:40 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone longeron alignment
>
>
> On page 10-11 step 1 you clamp the longeron in place. The apex (corner) of
the longeron is flush with both the F1073 side skins and the F1014 aft deck.
Aligning between the longeron and side skin is good but I'm having trouble getting
the longeron to align perfectly with the F1014 aft deck. Towards the center
of the aft deck (near where the longeron bend is) is where I start to have
the problem. It is within 1/8" in this area and good on the ends (ends of the
aft deck that is). I can force it a little closer than this (and actually
all the way flush) with pretty good force. My question is: is it absolutely necessary
to have it completely flush with the aft deck all the way along it???
Did anybody else have this problem??? If it needs to be completely flush, how
much force is OK to use before I have to start bending on the longeron???
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 tailcone
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Super Duper Weight & Balance |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
Ted on RV list wrote:
> Maybe I'm missing something, but when I try to do anything with this
> spreadsheety, I can't cause its all protected and needs a password.
Hi Ted,
You wouldn't happen to be using OpenOffice would you?
If so, upgrade to the latest version. There is a bug in the
older versions that causes this password issue with
spreadsheets (yes, I found this the hard way... :-) )
-Dj
Message 26
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| Subject: | Zaon Traffic System |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brinker" <brinker@cox-internet.com>
Anyone fimiliar with the Zaon flight systems traffic avoidance system ?
Looks promising and has a RS232 output which may make it compatible for
showing traffic on a GRT. And from what I've read it will pick up traffic
pretty much anywhere in the USA.
Randy
Message 27
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| Subject: | website problem??? |
I'm trying to go to Safeair1's website and I keep getting an error message when
I get there. Anybody else experiencing this???
I'm also curious if anybody flying with the Safeair1 static ports could give some
feedback on their performance. Are they accurate??? I know that it looks
like a pretty nice kit and user friendly with the quick disconnects but I've been
reading in the archives how the flush static kits don't seem to be as accurate
as the "dome-type" that Vans offers.
Any hints/suggestions???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Tailcone
Message 28
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| Subject: | Appears to be a great adhesive. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Just thought I would share this with you all. I have used three metal epoxy
adhesives so far and the one I am most impressed with is a product called
"Achor-Tite". This product is trademarked under this name and is made in
California.
The product claims to have holding strength of 2500psi tensil strength and
as impressive as that is, what I think is even better is that it has an
ability to have 30% elongation before deformation. It claims impact
resistence, meaning it is not brittle. It has a set time of 3-4 hours, but
parts need to be in contact within one hour. 100% cure in one week. It is
not moisture sensitve once set, can be used for marine applications. I bonds
several different mediums.
In actual use what I found most interesting is that I cut a small piece of
aluminum house flashing to mix this stuff and the left over cured adhesive
will not come off the (smooth/polished) aluminum flashing. Even if I bend
this thin flashing over and over, the epoxy will not seperate. That is
impressive. I had used this stuff to glue in my horizontal stab nose ribs a
week before I riveted them in. I was not aware of this flashing result until
I used it again that I played with the excess on the flashing.
Perhaps a drilled out rivet left a slightly enlarged hole. Use of this
product in addition to a backing plate might give one a little better piece
of mind when you re-rivet it.
P.S. I am not advocating patching up your mistakes and being comfortable.
You are your own engineer and judge.
John G. #409
elevator trim tabs completed, difficult access for the rivets at the control
horn.
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Tailcone longeron alignment |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I wouldn't put it under a lot of force. Just good pressure so it isn't
flimsy popping out.
Tim
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
>
> I can clamp it and get the straightness required but it takes lots of
> force to get it that straight. Will this force be a problem??? I don't
> like to put things together under stress, and this would definitely be
> under some stress.
>
> Bill
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 3:32 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tailcone longeron alignment
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> It doesn't look too awful bad. The only thing that makes
>> it look questionable....and not really too questionable, is
>> the hole edge distance you'll have when you drill those
>> rivets into the longerons. If you measure and see the edge
>> distance is appropriate, then you'll be OK. If it were me,
>> I'd try to clamp or push it and match drill it when it's lined
>> up along the edge. But, after now having assembled the tail
>> I can't see any big reason why your situation would cause anything
>> too major down the road.
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>> Current section: Final Assembly
>> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>> Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
>>
>>> I checked the measurements and it is only off by 1/16, not 1/8". The
>>> misalignment spans about 7 to 8 inches long and is worst (about 1/16)
>>> in the center of the span. Attached are a couple pictures to help
>>> describe my problem. If it's left this way will it affect the way
>>> the top skins line up later, or possibly anything else???
>>> Bill
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> *From:* Bill and Tami Britton <mailto:william@gbta.net>
>>> *To:* RV10-list@matronics.com <mailto:RV10-list@matronics.com>
>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 01, 2006 2:40 PM
>>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Tailcone longeron alignment
>>>
>>> On page 10-11 step 1 you clamp the longeron in place. The apex
>>> (corner) of the longeron is flush with both the F1073 side skins and
>>> the F1014 aft deck. Aligning between the longeron and side skin is
>>> good but I'm having trouble getting the longeron to align perfectly
>>> with the F1014 aft deck. Towards the center of the aft deck (near
>>> where the longeron bend is) is where I start to have the problem.
>>> It is within 1/8" in this area and good on the ends (ends of the aft
>>> deck that is). I can force it a little closer than this (and
>>> actually all the way flush) with pretty good force. My question is:
>>> is it absolutely necessary to have it completely flush with the aft
>>> deck all the way along it??? Did anybody else have this
>>> problem??? If it needs to be completely flush, how much force is OK
>>> to use
>>> before I have to start bending on the longeron???
>>> Bill Britton
>>> RV-10 tailcone
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Big tip on connecting the elevator trim |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Here's one for the archives....
Tonight I installed my elevator trim. Connecting the
trim wires on the remote ends is the last of my wiring to
connect, so I'm happy about that. I spent close to an
hour or more trying everything I could to get the trim cables
pushed from the forward part of the elevator through the snap
bushings and coming out the back. It just was NOT going to
happen. There was almost no way to get in there to align
the cable with the holes inside the HS either. Especially
doing it with the Vertical Stab mounted in the way, it was
just not going to happen.
Then I had one of those fleeting moments of brilliance....
and after that, it took only a few minutes to get both
of them through. Save this tip if you haven't done this
yet.
First, get some wire like coathanger wire. I used some
old aluminum pin material from some hinges used in previous
construction. Put a light in the center of the HS, towards
the forward part. Use the light to sight into the snap
bushings from the rear and feed that wire up to the front.
With the wire in, use a needle nose to pull it out the
entrance point for the cable. Tape onto that something
that's about 3/16" or 1/4" thick and flexible. Maybe
pitot tubing...I used scrap pieces of strobe wiring. You'll
need about 2.5-3' of it.
Pull that stuff through except for a few inches to work with.
Use some heat shrink to join the end of the trim cable to
the end of the flexible stuff, straight and inline.
Now you can pull gently on that flexible line and it should
feed through relatively snag free, guiding the trim cables
through all of the snap bushings. Do each side about 6"
at a time until they're both out.
Additonal notes: I hadn't ordered that new aluminum trim
anchor that's been talked about on the list, but after
seeing how the angle of the original one is, I would
recommend that you buy those well in advance of when you
need them. I would bet they'd be much nicer. I had to
whack mine with a hammer to give them a little less angle
so they'd line up better. I had previously soldered them
up to be tougher, so this angle adjustment was even tougher
to do now. Do it all at once when you do it. Also, for
future reference, I don't think there's really any benefit
to hooking up that trim system until you're almost done with
your final assembly. I see no reason why it hindered me
in the building, and without it installed it gave me more
room to work in the tailcone pulling and attaching wires
and stuff.
Hope that saves a few people a few combined hours of time.
Wish I'd have started that way.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Message 31
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I studied the archives a bit and found that several of you have installed dual
batteries. I cannot find any pictures of how the mods were made. Does anybody
have pictures of their battery mods??? I have not decided on which batteries
I will use yet. Do I need to know this before I build the tray???
Also, this may not be the right list to post this question, but, to those who are
considering the Egg H-6 for your -10, what are your battery thoughts/recommendations/locations???
Bill
RV-10 Tailcone
Message 32
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| Subject: | 3 ring binder for manual |
Has anyone found a mail order source for a 3 ring binder for the manual? I keep
tearing the holes on mine, and would like to have a real binder for my manual,
but I can't find any locally, or on the internet. If anyone knows a source,
please let me know.
Thanx
Chris Hukill
Figuring out my aux fuel tank system
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