RV10-List Digest Archive

Thu 02/02/06


Total Messages Posted: 37



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:20 AM - Official RV10-List Usage Guidelines (dralle@matronics.com)
     2. 03:55 AM - Re: Zaon Traffic System (Wayne Edgerton)
     3. 06:04 AM - Re: 3 ring binder for manual (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
     4. 06:43 AM - Re: Batteries ()
     5. 07:04 AM - Re: 3 ring binder for manual (Rene Felker)
     6. 07:42 AM - Re: 3 ring binder for manual (Mike Lauritsen - Work)
     7. 08:03 AM - Re: 3 ring binder for manual (Chuck Jensen)
     8. 08:50 AM - Re: Zaon Traffic System (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
     9. 09:13 AM - Re: 3 ring binder for manual (John Jessen)
    10. 09:31 AM - Re: 3 ring binder for manual (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
    11. 09:58 AM - Re: Appears to be a great adhesive. (Jerry Grimmonpre)
    12. 10:03 AM - Re: Zaon Traffic System (Brinker)
    13. 10:06 AM - Re: Zaon Traffic System (Brinker)
    14. 10:08 AM - Re: Appears to be a great adhesive. (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
    15. 10:20 AM - Re: Zaon Traffic System (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
    16. 10:23 AM - Re: Appears to be a great adhesive. (John Gonzalez)
    17. 10:28 AM - Re: Zaon Traffic System (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
    18. 10:42 AM - Re: Appears to be a great adhesive. (John Gonzalez)
    19. 11:03 AM - Re: Zaon Traffic System (Brinker)
    20. 11:33 AM - Re: Appears to be a great adhesive. (Jerry Grimmonpre)
    21. 11:37 AM - Re: Zaon Traffic System (Dj Merrill)
    22. 11:40 AM - Re: Zaon Traffic System (David Schaefer)
    23. 02:28 PM - Re: Batteries (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
    24. 02:29 PM - Sound Proofing (John Dunne)
    25. 02:50 PM - Re: Sound Proofing (Larry Rosen)
    26. 03:17 PM - Re: 3 ring binder for manual (Larry Rosen)
    27. 03:36 PM - Re: Appears to be a great adhesive. (John Hasbrouck)
    28. 04:04 PM - Re: Appears to be a great adhesive. (Marcus Cooper)
    29. 04:31 PM - Re: 3 ring binder for manual (Rick)
    30. 04:32 PM - Re: 3 ring binder for manual (Rick)
    31. 04:39 PM - Re: Big tip on connecting the elevator trim (Mike Kraus)
    32. 05:11 PM - Re: Big tip on connecting the elevator trim (bruce breckenridge)
    33. 07:13 PM - Official RV10-List Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) (Matt Dralle)
    34. 08:06 PM - Re: Big tip on connecting the elevator trim (Tim Olson)
    35. 08:24 PM - Re: Appears to be a great adhesive. (John Gonzalez)
    36. 08:27 PM - Re: Appears to be a great adhesive. (John Gonzalez)
    37. 11:51 PM - Verticle Stabilizer (Paul Walter)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:20:29 AM PST US
    From: dralle@matronics.com
    Subject: Official RV10-List Usage Guidelines
    --> RV10-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com Dear Listers, Please read over the RV10-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete RV10-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV10-List.FAQ.html Thank you, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ****************************************************************************** RV10-List Usage Guidelines ****************************************************************************** The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV10-List. You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein. Failure to use the RV10-List in the manner described below may result in the removal of the subscribers from the List. RV10-List Policy Statement The purpose of the RV10-List is to provide a forum of discussion for things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established: - Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc. - THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it. - Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and responses. - Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address, aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary space in the archive. - DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the web page or FAQ first. - If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it easy to find threads in the archive. - When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive can not be overstated! - When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the "reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your response to the original poster. You might have to actively address your response with the original poster's email address. - DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large. - When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly contribute something valuable. - Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing. - Occassional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularyly subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by List members promoting their respective products or items for sale should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to everyone, including those who provide products to the entire community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists. ------- [This is an automated posting.]


    Message 2


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    Time: 03:55:27 AM PST US
    From: "Wayne Edgerton" <weeav8ter@grandecom.net>
    Subject: Re: Zaon Traffic System
    I haven't heard of the Zaon but I am installing the Ryan TAS600 system, which also has RS232 that I can be run directly into the Chelton units and the Garmin 480.


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:04:35 AM PST US
    Subject: 3 ring binder for manual
    From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
    I ordered them from Corporate Express, they have a nice hard side 3 ring binder, and make sure to get some of the self sticking paper re-enforcement holes _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 1:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual Has anyone found a mail order source for a 3 ring binder for the manual? I keep tearing the holes on mine, and would like to have a real binder for my manual, but I can't find any locally, or on the internet. If anyone knows a source, please let me know. Thanx Chris Hukill Figuring out my aux fuel tank system


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:43:37 AM PST US
    From: <millstees@ameritech.net>
    Subject: Re: Batteries
    I am plannning on the Subaru H-6 for my -10, Eggenfellner recommends two Odyssey 680 batteries. As far as location is concerned, I have not reached that point, however since the H-6 is about 60 lbs lighter than the Lycosaur, it would be best from a weight and balance point of view to locate the batteries under the cowl. You can get additional information at Eggenfellners web site http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/ Steve Mills 40486 working on wings ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill and Tami Britton To: RV10-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 11:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: Batteries I studied the archives a bit and found that several of you have installed dual batteries. I cannot find any pictures of how the mods were made. Does anybody have pictures of their battery mods??? I have not decided on which batteries I will use yet. Do I need to know this before I build the tray??? Also, this may not be the right list to post this question, but, to those who are considering the Egg H-6 for your -10, what are your battery thoughts/recommendations/locations??? Bill RV-10 Tailcone


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:04:18 AM PST US
    From: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
    Subject: 3 ring binder for manual
    I use standard three ring binders and fold the drawings in half. I unfold the drawing I am working on and leave any uncompleted drawings unfolded. Makes for easy reference when you have to jump back and forth. I have used 1, 1.5, 2 and 3 inch binders and think the 1.5 inch works the best. But...I still pull out pages and have to put on paper A** H*** (reinforcement rings) when I do. It just makes it a lot easier in the binders. Rene' Felker 40322 Fuselage _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 11:23 PM Subject: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual Has anyone found a mail order source for a 3 ring binder for the manual? I keep tearing the holes on mine, and would like to have a real binder for my manual, but I can't find any locally, or on the internet. If anyone knows a source, please let me know. Thanx Chris Hukill Figuring out my aux fuel tank system


    Message 6


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    Time: 07:42:34 AM PST US
    From: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike@cleavelandtool.com>
    Subject: 3 ring binder for manual
    It's a bit overkill, but I took two strips of 1/8"x3/4" aluminum from the hardware store and drilled them to correspond to the holes. I countersunk and attached #8 nutplates to one for the back and countersunk and inserted #8 screws through the front to sandwich all of the pages together. I went this route mainly because I had so many ripped pages that I needed something to pinch and hold them together. Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual Has anyone found a mail order source for a 3 ring binder for the manual? I keep tearing the holes on mine, and would like to have a real binder for my manual, but I can't find any locally, or on the internet. If anyone knows a source, please let me know. Thanx Chris Hukill Figuring out my aux fuel tank system


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:03:55 AM PST US
    Subject: 3 ring binder for manual
    From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
    To reinforce the pages and prevent rip-out, run a strip of Scotch tape along the edge of the page, covering the holes. Punch the holes again and you have a super strong edge with holes that won't rip out. Cost: 0.01 cents per page. Chuck Jensen -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen - Work Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 10:41 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual It's a bit overkill, but I took two strips of 1/8"x3/4" aluminum from the hardware store and drilled them to correspond to the holes. I countersunk and attached #8 nutplates to one for the back and countersunk and inserted #8 screws through the front to sandwich all of the pages together. I went this route mainly because I had so many ripped pages that I needed something to pinch and hold them together. Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual Has anyone found a mail order source for a 3 ring binder for the manual? I keep tearing the holes on mine, and would like to have a real binder for my manual, but I can't find any locally, or on the internet. If anyone knows a source, please let me know. Thanx Chris Hukill Figuring out my aux fuel tank system


    Message 8


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    Time: 08:50:49 AM PST US
    Subject: Zaon Traffic System
    From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com> An RS232 interface doesn't mean jack if whatever display you're using doesn't support the particular format that is transmitted. TDT 40025 Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brinker Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 10:59 PM Subject: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System --> RV10-List message posted by: "Brinker" <brinker@cox-internet.com> Anyone fimiliar with the Zaon flight systems traffic avoidance system ? Looks promising and has a RS232 output which may make it compatible for showing traffic on a GRT. And from what I've read it will pick up traffic pretty much anywhere in the USA. Randy


    Message 9


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    Time: 09:13:17 AM PST US
    From: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
    Subject: 3 ring binder for manual
    I just rip each page out (I've given up trying to keep the holes from ripping), immediately spill some hot tea on it to give it its proper staining, fold it up and stuff it in my briefcase so I can unfold it in the airport and look at it seriously hoping to impress someone with my technical acumen. Mainly I take the page out so I can have that one page near, beside, on top of the work at hand. Then, once finished with it, I take it home with me so it's near the computer and I can enter my notes and time, then finally onto a "completed" file of other, heroically stained and mangled pages. War is war. I stand on the front line between aluminum and civilization. You need me on that line; you want me on that line. I don't have the time, nor the inclination to pamper my pages. Histrionically yours, John Jessen ~328 (skinning the Tailcone) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Jensen Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 8:01 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual To reinforce the pages and prevent rip-out, run a strip of Scotch tape along the edge of the page, covering the holes. Punch the holes again and you have a super strong edge with holes that won't rip out. Cost: 0.01 cents per page. Chuck Jensen -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen - Work Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 10:41 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual It's a bit overkill, but I took two strips of 1/8"x3/4" aluminum from the hardware store and drilled them to correspond to the holes. I countersunk and attached #8 nutplates to one for the back and countersunk and inserted #8 screws through the front to sandwich all of the pages together. I went this route mainly because I had so many ripped pages that I needed something to pinch and hold them together. Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual Has anyone found a mail order source for a 3 ring binder for the manual? I keep tearing the holes on mine, and would like to have a real binder for my manual, but I can't find any locally, or on the internet. If anyone knows a source, please let me know. Thanx Chris Hukill Figuring out my aux fuel tank system


    Message 10


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    Time: 09:31:19 AM PST US
    Subject: 3 ring binder for manual
    From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
    "Col Jessen, did you order the wing kit?" "I did the job, I . . ." "Did you order the wing kit?" "You're goddamn right I did!" Hee hee TDT Do not archive ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:12 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual I just rip each page out (I've given up trying to keep the holes from ripping), immediately spill some hot tea on it to give it its proper staining, fold it up and stuff it in my briefcase so I can unfold it in the airport and look at it seriously hoping to impress someone with my technical acumen. Mainly I take the page out so I can have that one page near, beside, on top of the work at hand. Then, once finished with it, I take it home with me so it's near the computer and I can enter my notes and time, then finally onto a "completed" file of other, heroically stained and mangled pages. War is war. I stand on the front line between aluminum and civilization. You need me on that line; you want me on that line. I don't have the time, nor the inclination to pamper my pages. Histrionically yours, John Jessen ~328 (skinning the Tailcone) ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Jensen Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 8:01 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual To reinforce the pages and prevent rip-out, run a strip of Scotch tape along the edge of the page, covering the holes. Punch the holes again and you have a super strong edge with holes that won't rip out. Cost: 0.01 cents per page. Chuck Jensen -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen - Work Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 10:41 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual It's a bit overkill, but I took two strips of 1/8"x3/4" aluminum from the hardware store and drilled them to correspond to the holes. I countersunk and attached #8 nutplates to one for the back and countersunk and inserted #8 screws through the front to sandwich all of the pages together. I went this route mainly because I had so many ripped pages that I needed something to pinch and hold them together. Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual Has anyone found a mail order source for a 3 ring binder for the manual? I keep tearing the holes on mine, and would like to have a real binder for my manual, but I can't find any locally, or on the internet. If anyone knows a source, please let me know. Thanx Chris Hukill Figuring out my aux fuel tank system


    Message 11


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    Time: 09:58:27 AM PST US
    From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net>
    Subject: Re: Appears to be a great adhesive.
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net> When Achor-Tite is googled it leads me to Plastic Grip Tite. Is this the same stuff? Where can Achor-Tite be purchased? Is Achor-Tite the correct spelling? What is missing? Thanks ... Jerry Grimmonpre' RV8A DO NOT ARCHIVE ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 11:21 PM Subject: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> > > Just thought I would share this with you all. I have used three metal > epoxy adhesives so far and the one I am most impressed with is a product > called "Achor-Tite". This product is trademarked under this name and is > made in California. > > The product claims to have holding strength of 2500psi tensil strength and > as impressive as that is, what I think is even better is that it has an > ability to have 30% elongation before deformation. It claims impact > resistence, meaning it is not brittle. It has a set time of 3-4 hours, > but parts need to be in contact within one hour. 100% cure in one week. > It is not moisture sensitve once set, can be used for marine applications. > I bonds several different mediums. > > In actual use what I found most interesting is that I cut a small piece of > aluminum house flashing to mix this stuff and the left over cured adhesive > will not come off the (smooth/polished) aluminum flashing. Even if I bend > this thin flashing over and over, the epoxy will not seperate. That is > impressive. I had used this stuff to glue in my horizontal stab nose ribs > a week before I riveted them in. I was not aware of this flashing result > until I used it again that I played with the excess on the flashing. > > Perhaps a drilled out rivet left a slightly enlarged hole. Use of this > product in addition to a backing plate might give one a little better > piece of mind when you re-rivet it. > > P.S. I am not advocating patching up your mistakes and being comfortable. > You are your own engineer and judge. > > John G. #409 > elevator trim tabs completed, difficult access for the rivets at the > control horn.


    Message 12


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    Time: 10:03:05 AM PST US
    From: "Brinker" <brinker@cox-internet.com>
    Subject: Re: Zaon Traffic System
    I can't justify spending 10k or so on a traffic system such as the Ryan. The Zaon is about $1800. which can be found at http://www.zaonflight.com/ With technology expanding by leaps and bounds I am holding out for a bit to see what emerges next. I was leaning towards the Garmin modes S GTX330 but after learning the FAA is fazing out mode S coverage and also only good when in mode S radar coverage the Zaon XRX is looking appealing if it will do all it claims. Randy ----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne Edgerton To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 5:48 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System I haven't heard of the Zaon but I am installing the Ryan TAS600 system, which also has RS232 that I can be run directly into the Chelton units and the Garmin 480.


    Message 13


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    Time: 10:06:24 AM PST US
    From: "Brinker" <brinker@cox-internet.com>
    Subject: Re: Zaon Traffic System
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Brinker" <brinker@cox-internet.com> Contacted Zaon they are expanding they're interface database this year. Hopefully it will include GRT efis. Randy ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com> Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 10:48 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" > <Tdawson@Avidyne.com> > > > An RS232 interface doesn't mean jack if whatever display you're using > doesn't support the particular format that is transmitted. > > TDT > 40025 > Do not archive > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brinker > Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 10:59 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Brinker" <brinker@cox-internet.com> > > Anyone fimiliar with the Zaon flight systems traffic avoidance system ? > Looks promising and has a RS232 output which may make it compatible for > showing traffic on a GRT. And from what I've read it will pick up > traffic > pretty much anywhere in the USA. > > Randy > > >


    Message 14


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    Time: 10:08:53 AM PST US
    Subject: Appears to be a great adhesive.
    From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com> There's an 'n' missing. Try: http://anchortite.supergluecorp.com/epoxy.html They have a version called "Automotive/RV" so that must be for us! TDT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Grimmonpre Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:57 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net> When Achor-Tite is googled it leads me to Plastic Grip Tite. Is this the same stuff? Where can Achor-Tite be purchased? Is Achor-Tite the correct spelling? What is missing? Thanks ... Jerry Grimmonpre' RV8A DO NOT ARCHIVE ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 11:21 PM Subject: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> > > Just thought I would share this with you all. I have used three metal > epoxy adhesives so far and the one I am most impressed with is a product > called "Achor-Tite". This product is trademarked under this name and is > made in California. > > The product claims to have holding strength of 2500psi tensil strength and > as impressive as that is, what I think is even better is that it has an > ability to have 30% elongation before deformation. It claims impact > resistence, meaning it is not brittle. It has a set time of 3-4 hours, > but parts need to be in contact within one hour. 100% cure in one week. > It is not moisture sensitve once set, can be used for marine applications. > I bonds several different mediums. > > In actual use what I found most interesting is that I cut a small piece of > aluminum house flashing to mix this stuff and the left over cured adhesive > will not come off the (smooth/polished) aluminum flashing. Even if I bend > this thin flashing over and over, the epoxy will not seperate. That is > impressive. I had used this stuff to glue in my horizontal stab nose ribs > a week before I riveted them in. I was not aware of this flashing result > until I used it again that I played with the excess on the flashing. > > Perhaps a drilled out rivet left a slightly enlarged hole. Use of this > product in addition to a backing plate might give one a little better > piece of mind when you re-rivet it. > > P.S. I am not advocating patching up your mistakes and being comfortable. > You are your own engineer and judge. > > John G. #409 > elevator trim tabs completed, difficult access for the rivets at the > control horn.


    Message 15


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    Time: 10:20:54 AM PST US
    Subject: Zaon Traffic System
    From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
    Note that the Zaon is a passive system, relying on ground radar or on other TCAS-equipped aircraft to generate the "pings" that will bounce off target aircraft. So if you're too far from a ground radar, and there's not an airliner with TCAS nearby, you might not see another aircraft because no one is interrogating his transponder. Ryan TAS, on the other hand, is an active system that generates its own "pings" so it will detect anyone with a transponder, regardless of where you are. TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brinker Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 1:02 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System I can't justify spending 10k or so on a traffic system such as the Ryan. The Zaon is about $1800. which can be found at http://www.zaonflight.com/ With technology expanding by leaps and bounds I am holding out for a bit to see what emerges next. I was leaning towards the Garmin modes S GTX330 but after learning the FAA is fazing out mode S coverage and also only good when in mode S radar coverage the Zaon XRX is looking appealing if it will do all it claims. Randy ----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne Edgerton <mailto:weeav8ter@grandecom.net> To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 5:48 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System I haven't heard of the Zaon but I am installing the Ryan TAS600 system, which also has RS232 that I can be run directly into the Chelton units and the Garmin 480.


    Message 16


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    Time: 10:23:59 AM PST US
    From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
    Subject: Re: Appears to be a great adhesive.
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> I read it right from the syringe. I purchased mine from a hardware store in California called the "Do It Center." The spelling is correct. Let me know if you can't find it inside the site you looked at and I'll do more research when I get home. The outer paper I threw away, but I'll make it happen even if I have to go get more. Sorry for the inconvenience. JG >From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net> >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. >Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 11:56:40 -0600 > >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net> > >When Achor-Tite is googled it leads me to Plastic Grip Tite. Is this the >same stuff? Where can Achor-Tite be purchased? Is Achor-Tite the correct >spelling? What is missing? >Thanks ... >Jerry Grimmonpre' >RV8A >DO NOT ARCHIVE > >----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> >Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 11:21 PM >Subject: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. > > >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> >> >>Just thought I would share this with you all. I have used three metal >>epoxy adhesives so far and the one I am most impressed with is a product >>called "Achor-Tite". This product is trademarked under this name and is >>made in California. >> >>The product claims to have holding strength of 2500psi tensil strength and >>as impressive as that is, what I think is even better is that it has an >>ability to have 30% elongation before deformation. It claims impact >>resistence, meaning it is not brittle. It has a set time of 3-4 hours, >>but parts need to be in contact within one hour. 100% cure in one week. >>It is not moisture sensitve once set, can be used for marine applications. >>I bonds several different mediums. >> >>In actual use what I found most interesting is that I cut a small piece of >>aluminum house flashing to mix this stuff and the left over cured adhesive >>will not come off the (smooth/polished) aluminum flashing. Even if I bend >>this thin flashing over and over, the epoxy will not seperate. That is >>impressive. I had used this stuff to glue in my horizontal stab nose ribs >>a week before I riveted them in. I was not aware of this flashing result >>until I used it again that I played with the excess on the flashing. >> >>Perhaps a drilled out rivet left a slightly enlarged hole. Use of this >>product in addition to a backing plate might give one a little better >>piece of mind when you re-rivet it. >> >>P.S. I am not advocating patching up your mistakes and being comfortable. >>You are your own engineer and judge. >> >>John G. #409 >>elevator trim tabs completed, difficult access for the rivets at the >>control horn. > > >http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > >


    Message 17


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    Time: 10:28:56 AM PST US
    Subject: Zaon Traffic System
    From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
    It also looks like the Zaon uses altitude separation and range to prioritize threats (of which it can only show three at a time). Ryan and other TSO'ed traffic sensors use "tau", which is a computed time of closest approach of the target. This allows, say, a Learjet that is further away from you, but closing at 450 knots, to be a higher-priority threat than a Piper Cub that is closer to you, but only moving at 90 knots . . . TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brinker Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 1:02 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System I can't justify spending 10k or so on a traffic system such as the Ryan. The Zaon is about $1800. which can be found at http://www.zaonflight.com/ With technology expanding by leaps and bounds I am holding out for a bit to see what emerges next. I was leaning towards the Garmin modes S GTX330 but after learning the FAA is fazing out mode S coverage and also only good when in mode S radar coverage the Zaon XRX is looking appealing if it will do all it claims. Randy ----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne Edgerton <mailto:weeav8ter@grandecom.net> To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 5:48 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System I haven't heard of the Zaon but I am installing the Ryan TAS600 system, which also has RS232 that I can be run directly into the Chelton units and the Garmin 480.


    Message 18


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    Time: 10:42:00 AM PST US
    From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
    Subject: Appears to be a great adhesive.
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> Thank you. '''''''n""""" I better watch out for those rivets I leave out. This actually brings up a point about proof reading your emails before hitting the send button. Some times it takes a while to figure out what someone is trying to be say. It was the Automotive/RV type, but it also said submergible and marine applications Okay. It is good stuff. John >From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com> >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. >Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 13:07:59 -0500 > >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" ><Tdawson@Avidyne.com> > > >There's an 'n' missing. > >Try: http://anchortite.supergluecorp.com/epoxy.html > >They have a version called "Automotive/RV" so that must be for us! > >TDT > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry >Grimmonpre >Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:57 PM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. > >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net> > >When Achor-Tite is googled it leads me to Plastic Grip Tite. Is this >the >same stuff? Where can Achor-Tite be purchased? Is Achor-Tite the >correct >spelling? What is missing? >Thanks ... >Jerry Grimmonpre' >RV8A >DO NOT ARCHIVE > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> >Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 11:21 PM >Subject: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. > > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" ><indigoonlatigo@msn.com> > > > > Just thought I would share this with you all. I have used three metal > > > epoxy adhesives so far and the one I am most impressed with is a >product > > called "Achor-Tite". This product is trademarked under this name and >is > > made in California. > > > > The product claims to have holding strength of 2500psi tensil strength >and > > as impressive as that is, what I think is even better is that it has >an > > ability to have 30% elongation before deformation. It claims impact > > resistence, meaning it is not brittle. It has a set time of 3-4 >hours, > > but parts need to be in contact within one hour. 100% cure in one >week. > > It is not moisture sensitve once set, can be used for marine >applications. > > I bonds several different mediums. > > > > In actual use what I found most interesting is that I cut a small >piece of > > aluminum house flashing to mix this stuff and the left over cured >adhesive > > will not come off the (smooth/polished) aluminum flashing. Even if I >bend > > this thin flashing over and over, the epoxy will not seperate. That >is > > impressive. I had used this stuff to glue in my horizontal stab nose >ribs > > a week before I riveted them in. I was not aware of this flashing >result > > until I used it again that I played with the excess on the flashing. > > > > Perhaps a drilled out rivet left a slightly enlarged hole. Use of >this > > product in addition to a backing plate might give one a little better > > piece of mind when you re-rivet it. > > > > P.S. I am not advocating patching up your mistakes and being >comfortable. > > You are your own engineer and judge. > > > > John G. #409 > > elevator trim tabs completed, difficult access for the rivets at the > > control horn. > >


    Message 19


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    Time: 11:03:06 AM PST US
    From: "Brinker" <brinker@cox-internet.com>
    Subject: Re: Zaon Traffic System
    Does'nt ground radar cover most all the continental US ? And as such would'nt the passive system such as the Zaon be more capable than mode S ? Still trying to figure out all this active and passive thing. Pretty neat stuff and truly mind boggling at the advancements being made. Randy ----- Original Message ----- From: Tim Dawson-Townsend To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:19 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System Note that the Zaon is a passive system, relying on ground radar or on other TCAS-equipped aircraft to generate the "pings" that will bounce off target aircraft. So if you're too far from a ground radar, and there's not an airliner with TCAS nearby, you might not see another aircraft because no one is interrogating his transponder. Ryan TAS, on the other hand, is an active system that generates its own "pings" so it will detect anyone with a transponder, regardless of where you are. TDT 40025 From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brinker Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 1:02 PM To: rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System I can't justify spending 10k or so on a traffic system such as the Ryan. The Zaon is about $1800. which can be found at http://www.zaonflight.com/ With technology expanding by leaps and bounds I am holding out for a bit to see what emerges next. I was leaning towards the Garmin modes S GTX330 but after learning the FAA is fazing out mode S coverage and also only good when in mode S radar coverage the Zaon XRX is looking appealing if it will do all it claims. Randy ----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne Edgerton To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 5:48 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System I haven't heard of the Zaon but I am installing the Ryan TAS600 system, which also has RS232 that I can be run directly into the Chelton units and the Garmin 480.


    Message 20


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    Time: 11:33:43 AM PST US
    From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net>
    Subject: Re: Appears to be a great adhesive.
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net> It's really no inconvenience here ... I'm happy it's found, I added an "n" and that lead me into the site. I've used a similar two part squeeze and found the stuff easy to do the job. I will watch for it at the hardware store. Thanks, Jerry DO NOT ARCHIVE ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:23 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> > > I read it right from the syringe. I purchased mine from a hardware store > in California called the "Do It Center." The spelling is correct. Let me > know if you can't find it inside the site you looked at and I'll do more > research when I get home. The outer paper I threw away, but I'll make it > happen even if I have to go get more. Sorry for the inconvenience. > > JG > > >>From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net> >>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> >>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. >>Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 11:56:40 -0600 >> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net> >> >>When Achor-Tite is googled it leads me to Plastic Grip Tite. Is this the >>same stuff? Where can Achor-Tite be purchased? Is Achor-Tite the correct >>spelling? What is missing? >>Thanks ... >>Jerry Grimmonpre' >>RV8A >>DO NOT ARCHIVE >> >>----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gonzalez" >><indigoonlatigo@msn.com> >>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> >>Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 11:21 PM >>Subject: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. >> >> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> >>> >>>Just thought I would share this with you all. I have used three metal >>>epoxy adhesives so far and the one I am most impressed with is a product >>>called "Achor-Tite". This product is trademarked under this name and is >>>made in California. >>> >>>The product claims to have holding strength of 2500psi tensil strength >>>and as impressive as that is, what I think is even better is that it has >>>an ability to have 30% elongation before deformation. It claims impact >>>resistence, meaning it is not brittle. It has a set time of 3-4 hours, >>>but parts need to be in contact within one hour. 100% cure in one week. >>>It is not moisture sensitve once set, can be used for marine >>>applications. I bonds several different mediums. >>> >>>In actual use what I found most interesting is that I cut a small piece >>>of aluminum house flashing to mix this stuff and the left over cured >>>adhesive will not come off the (smooth/polished) aluminum flashing. Even >>>if I bend this thin flashing over and over, the epoxy will not seperate. >>>That is impressive. I had used this stuff to glue in my horizontal stab >>>nose ribs a week before I riveted them in. I was not aware of this >>>flashing result until I used it again that I played with the excess on >>>the flashing. >>> >>>Perhaps a drilled out rivet left a slightly enlarged hole. Use of this >>>product in addition to a backing plate might give one a little better >>>piece of mind when you re-rivet it. >>> >>>P.S. I am not advocating patching up your mistakes and being comfortable. >>>You are your own engineer and judge. >>> >>>John G. #409 >>>elevator trim tabs completed, difficult access for the rivets at the >>>control horn. >> >> >> >> >> >>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > >


    Message 21


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    Time: 11:37:32 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Zaon Traffic System
    From: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net> Brinker wrote: > Does'nt ground radar cover most all the continental US ? > And as such would'nt the passive system such as the Zaon be more > capable than mode S ? > Still trying to figure out all this active and passive > thing. Pretty neat stuff and truly mind boggling at the advancements > being made. > Well, "it depends"... :-) Ground radar does cover more area at present than mode S (aka TIS coverage). However, in a lot of places, especially near hills, ground radar may only go down to something like 5000 feet, so it does not have complete coverage, especially down low near a lot of smaller airports, where you are more likely to really need the traffic avoidance. As ADS-B makes it way into areas, eventually radar coverage will be phased out, but we have quite a few years before that happens. TIS already has a phasing-out schedule, so IMHO it is already an outdated technology, although you are likely to get at least another 10 years or so out of it in most areas. Right now I'd guess a passive system that works off the reflected radar signal would have more coverage overall than the TIS or ADS-B systems. However, TIS and ADS-B are far more accurate in direction, distance, and altitude. Just put both in! *grin* -Dj


    Message 22


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    Time: 11:40:19 AM PST US
    From: David Schaefer <dwschaefer@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Zaon Traffic System
    I remember these guys from OSH. They are going to use some proprietary format and initially only hook-up with the ANYWhere system. The unit will be a built-in unit not the portable one. Regards, On 2/2/06, Tim Dawson-Townsend <Tdawson@avidyne.com> wrote: > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" < > Tdawson@Avidyne.com> > > > An RS232 interface doesn't mean jack if whatever display you're using > doesn't support the particular format that is transmitted. > > TDT > 40025 > Do not archive > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brinker > Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 10:59 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Brinker" <brinker@cox-internet.com> > > Anyone fimiliar with the Zaon flight systems traffic avoidance system ? > Looks promising and has a RS232 output which may make it compatible for > showing traffic on a GRT. And from what I've read it will pick up > traffic > pretty much anywhere in the USA. > > Randy > > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > > -- David Schaefer RV-6A N142DS "Geek One" www.n142ds.com


    Message 23


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    Time: 02:28:05 PM PST US
    Subject: Batteries
    From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
    Here's what I did, batteries are a pair of PC-680s. Not a problem to mod the tray later. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 11:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: Batteries I studied the archives a bit and found that several of you have installed dual batteries. I cannot find any pictures of how the mods were made. Does anybody have pictures of their battery mods??? I have not decided on which batteries I will use yet. Do I need to know this before I build the tray??? Also, this may not be the right list to post this question, but, to those who are considering the Egg H-6 for your -10, what are your battery thoughts/recommendations/locations??? Bill RV-10 Tailcone


    Message 24


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    Time: 02:29:54 PM PST US
    From: "John Dunne" <acs@acspropeller.com.au>
    Subject: Sound Proofing
    I seem to recall a discussion on the pros and cons of soundproofing the -10. Can anyone enlighten me or point me to where this info was posted? John 40315#


    Message 25


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    Time: 02:50:57 PM PST US
    From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Sound Proofing
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> Pros It keeps the interior quiet (the key is to put the sound proofing in the important locations to get the most noise reduction with the least amount of material which is difficult to know before the plane is flying) May add thermal insulation Cons Added weight Potential for corrosion by trapping moisture especially in areas that you cannot inspect (like under the floor panels) Alternate Use ANR headsets Just my 2 cents -- Larry Rosen RV-10 #356 http://lrosen.nerv10.com


    Message 26


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    Time: 03:17:30 PM PST US
    From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: 3 ring binder for manual
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net> I store my plans in a plastic 3 ring binder like you are looking for which is on loan from work :-) I found one at office depot here <http://www.officedepot.com/ddSKU.do?level=SK&id=914005&&An=text> or at a site called www.11x17.com Here is the link to 1" 11x17 binders <http://11x17binders.com/store/index.php?cPath=9_17&osCsid=9db182416d177ff25f3d00b990968221> In the shop I use a copy of my plans. They get tossed around and the pages get out of order. Every so often my daughter gets the task of putting them back in order. Chris Hukill wrote: > Has anyone found a mail order source for a 3 ring binder for the > manual? I keep tearing the holes on mine, and would like to have a > real binder for my manual, but I can't find any locally, or on the > internet. If anyone knows a source, please let me know. > Thanx > Chris Hukill > Figuring out my aux fuel tank system


    Message 27


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    Time: 03:36:14 PM PST US
    From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Appears to be a great adhesive.
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com> John, What's its long term effect on aluminum? Will it cause corrosion? John Hasbrouck #40264


    Message 28


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    Time: 04:04:14 PM PST US
    From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Appears to be a great adhesive.
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net> Any thoughts on using this stuff to attach the rudder cable fairings to the fuselage? Seems like it might be a good fit if permanent enough. Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 1:41 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> Thank you. '''''''n""""" I better watch out for those rivets I leave out. This actually brings up a point about proof reading your emails before hitting the send button. Some times it takes a while to figure out what someone is trying to be say. It was the Automotive/RV type, but it also said submergible and marine applications Okay. It is good stuff. John >From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com> >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. >Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 13:07:59 -0500 > >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" ><Tdawson@Avidyne.com> > > >There's an 'n' missing. > >Try: http://anchortite.supergluecorp.com/epoxy.html > >They have a version called "Automotive/RV" so that must be for us! > >TDT > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry >Grimmonpre >Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:57 PM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. > >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net> > >When Achor-Tite is googled it leads me to Plastic Grip Tite. Is this >the >same stuff? Where can Achor-Tite be purchased? Is Achor-Tite the >correct >spelling? What is missing? >Thanks ... >Jerry Grimmonpre' >RV8A >DO NOT ARCHIVE > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> >Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 11:21 PM >Subject: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. > > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" ><indigoonlatigo@msn.com> > > > > Just thought I would share this with you all. I have used three metal > > > epoxy adhesives so far and the one I am most impressed with is a >product > > called "Achor-Tite". This product is trademarked under this name and >is > > made in California. > > > > The product claims to have holding strength of 2500psi tensil strength >and > > as impressive as that is, what I think is even better is that it has >an > > ability to have 30% elongation before deformation. It claims impact > > resistence, meaning it is not brittle. It has a set time of 3-4 >hours, > > but parts need to be in contact within one hour. 100% cure in one >week. > > It is not moisture sensitve once set, can be used for marine >applications. > > I bonds several different mediums. > > > > In actual use what I found most interesting is that I cut a small >piece of > > aluminum house flashing to mix this stuff and the left over cured >adhesive > > will not come off the (smooth/polished) aluminum flashing. Even if I >bend > > this thin flashing over and over, the epoxy will not seperate. That >is > > impressive. I had used this stuff to glue in my horizontal stab nose >ribs > > a week before I riveted them in. I was not aware of this flashing >result > > until I used it again that I played with the excess on the flashing. > > > > Perhaps a drilled out rivet left a slightly enlarged hole. Use of >this > > product in addition to a backing plate might give one a little better > > piece of mind when you re-rivet it. > > > > P.S. I am not advocating patching up your mistakes and being >comfortable. > > You are your own engineer and judge. > > > > John G. #409 > > elevator trim tabs completed, difficult access for the rivets at the > > control horn. > >


    Message 29


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    Time: 04:31:09 PM PST US
    From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
    Subject: 3 ring binder for manual
    --- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found --- A message with no text/plain MIME section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using Plain Text formatting. HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section in their client's default configuration. If you're using HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text". --- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---


    Message 30


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    Time: 04:32:10 PM PST US
    From: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
    Subject: 3 ring binder for manual
    --- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found --- A message with no text/plain MIME section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using Plain Text formatting. HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section in their client's default configuration. If you're using HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text". --- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---


    Message 31


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    Time: 04:39:42 PM PST US
    From: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
    Subject: Big tip on connecting the elevator trim
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> I had very good success by taking some 3/8" tygon tubing (or other flexible type tubing) and fishing it thorough from the back side of the Horizontal stab through the snap bushings. Then feed the trim cable from the front and slide it into the front of the tube. Push the cable and pull the tubing at the same rate and the tubing will glide the cable through the snap bushings out the back side of the HS in perfect alignment. Both sides took less than 5 minutes. Of course it took me an hour to figure this out..... -Mike Kraus RV-4 Flying RV-10 Fuse, wiring, instruments, FWF, whatever sounds like fun each day.... It all has to get done -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:33 AM Subject: RV10-List: Big tip on connecting the elevator trim --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> Here's one for the archives.... Tonight I installed my elevator trim. Connecting the trim wires on the remote ends is the last of my wiring to connect, so I'm happy about that. I spent close to an hour or more trying everything I could to get the trim cables pushed from the forward part of the elevator through the snap bushings and coming out the back. It just was NOT going to happen. There was almost no way to get in there to align the cable with the holes inside the HS either. Especially doing it with the Vertical Stab mounted in the way, it was just not going to happen. Then I had one of those fleeting moments of brilliance.... and after that, it took only a few minutes to get both of them through. Save this tip if you haven't done this yet. First, get some wire like coathanger wire. I used some old aluminum pin material from some hinges used in previous construction. Put a light in the center of the HS, towards the forward part. Use the light to sight into the snap bushings from the rear and feed that wire up to the front. With the wire in, use a needle nose to pull it out the entrance point for the cable. Tape onto that something that's about 3/16" or 1/4" thick and flexible. Maybe pitot tubing...I used scrap pieces of strobe wiring. You'll need about 2.5-3' of it. Pull that stuff through except for a few inches to work with. Use some heat shrink to join the end of the trim cable to the end of the flexible stuff, straight and inline. Now you can pull gently on that flexible line and it should feed through relatively snag free, guiding the trim cables through all of the snap bushings. Do each side about 6" at a time until they're both out. Additonal notes: I hadn't ordered that new aluminum trim anchor that's been talked about on the list, but after seeing how the angle of the original one is, I would recommend that you buy those well in advance of when you need them. I would bet they'd be much nicer. I had to whack mine with a hammer to give them a little less angle so they'd line up better. I had previously soldered them up to be tougher, so this angle adjustment was even tougher to do now. Do it all at once when you do it. Also, for future reference, I don't think there's really any benefit to hooking up that trim system until you're almost done with your final assembly. I see no reason why it hindered me in the building, and without it installed it gave me more room to work in the tailcone pulling and attaching wires and stuff. Hope that saves a few people a few combined hours of time. Wish I'd have started that way. Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170


    Message 32


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    Time: 05:11:39 PM PST US
    From: bruce breckenridge <bbreckenridge@gmail.com>
    Subject: re: Big tip on connecting the elevator trim
    "Additonal notes: I hadn't ordered that new aluminum trim anchor that's been talked about on the list, but after seeing how the angle of the original one is, I would recommend that you buy those well in advance of when you need them. I would bet they'd be much nicer. I had to whack mine with a hammer to give them a little less angle so they'd line up better. I had previously soldered them up to be tougher, so this angle adjustment was even tougher to do now." So, Tim: Based on your experience with the sledge, do you think it unwise to purchase this beautifully crafted "nut on a plate" that doesn't appear to be easily smacked into a different position? Bruce 40018


    Message 33


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    Time: 07:13:03 PM PST US
    From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
    Subject: Official RV10-List Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> Dear Listers, Please read over the RV10-List Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) below. The complete RV10-List FAQ including the Usage Guidelines can be found at the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV10-List.FAQ.html Thank you, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator [ Note: This FAQ was designed to be displayed with a fixed width font such as Courier. Proportional fonts will cause display formatting errors. ] This FAQ can also be viewed in HTML online at the following address: http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm ************************************************************ ******* LIST POLICIES AND FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ******* ************************************************************ PLEASE READ. This document contains RV10-List policies and information for new and old subscribers. Understanding the RV10-List policies will minimize problems for the Administrator, and will help keep the RV10-List running smoothly for all of us. **************************************** *** How to Subscribe and Unsubscribe *** **************************************** Simply go to the Web Page shown below and enter your email address and select the List(s) that you wish to subscribe or unsubscribed from. You may also use the handy "Find" function to determine the exact syntax of your email address as it is subscribed to the List. Please see the complete instructions at the top of the Web Page for more information. The Subscribe/Unsubscribe web page is: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Note that you will receive TWO conformation emails regarding your subsciption process. The first verifies that your subscription/unsubsciption request was received, and the second confirms that the process has been completed. You should receive the first email within a few minutes of your request. The second conformation will arrive in less than 24 hours. You cannot post until you receive the second conformation email message. ***************************** *** How to Post a Message *** ***************************** Send an email message to: rv10-list@matronics.com Your message will be redistributed to everyone currently subscribed to the List. ***************************************************** *** SPAM Fighter - You Must be Subscribed to Post *** ***************************************************** When a new post is received by the system, the From: line of the message is checked and compared against the current subscription list. If the email address is found, the message is passed on to the List Processor. If the email address isn't found in the current list of subscribers, it is dumped. This serves to very effectively thwart 99% of the SPAM that gets posted to the Lists. Remember, however, that the syntax of your email address is very important with regard to the configuration of your email application such as Outlook or Eudora. For example, the following two email addresses may be functionally equivalent, but only one would pass the Matronics Email SPAM test depending on which was syntax was subscribed to the given List: smith@machine.domain.com smith@domain.com Either email address syntax is alright, just be sure that you configure your email application to match *exactly* the address you've subscibed to the List. ***************************************************************** *** Enclosures Stripped Out - Can't Get a Virus From the List *** ***************************************************************** Any enclosures that are posted to the List will automatically be stripped off, and ONLY the plain/text portion of the message will be forwarded to the List. Please configure your Email application to send Plain Text Only, and disable any "Quoted Printable" or "HTML" encoding whenever possible. Because enclosures are stripped out of incoming posts to the List, the likelihood of getting a virus from the List is extremely small. If you do receive a message that appears to be from the List, and it does include a virus, it is very likely that it was sent *directly* to you from someone on the List who has a virus. This is a specific kind of virus, and you should try to inform the sender, if possible. The best protection against viruses is a good virus protection program such as Norton Antivirus. State of the art in virus protection today's world gives maximum protection with little or no negative impact on the computer system. You can't afford to be without a good virus protection program these days. Note that some limited enclosure posting is now enabled on a number of Lists. Allowed types include .jpg, .gif, .txt, .pdf, .xls, and a few other similar types. ******************* *** Digest Mode *** ******************* Each day, starting at 12 midnight PST US, a new 'digest' will be started. This digest will contain the same information that is currently appended to the archive file. It has all of the headers except for the "From:" and "Subject:" lines removed, and includes a message separator consisting of a line of underscores. Each day at 23:55 PST US, the day's messages as described above will be combined and sent as a single message to everyone on the digest email list. To subscribe to the digest list, use the same subscription web form described above, and just select the Digest version of the List. http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Note that you *can* be subscribed to both the realtime and digest versions of the List at the same time. This is perfectly acceptable. 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RV10-List Policy Statement The purpose of the RV10-List is to provide a forum of discussion for things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established: - Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc. - THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it. - Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and responses. - Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address, aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary space in the archive. - DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the web page or FAQ first. - If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it easy to find threads in the archive. - When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive can not be overstated! - When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the "reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your response to the original poster. You might have to actively address your response with the original poster's email address. - DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large. - When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly contribute something valuable. - Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing. - Occassional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularyly subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by List members promoting their respective products or items for sale should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to everyone, including those who provide products to the entire community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists. ------- [This is an automated posting.]


    Message 34


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    Time: 08:06:32 PM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    CC: bruce breckenridge <bbreckenridge@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Big tip on connecting the elevator trim
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> No, based on my experience, I think that the people that said "the nut angle at 25 degreess is too much and it needs to be 15 degrees" is correct, and I believe it would be best to purchase the beautifully crafted "nut on a plate". I think that would give superior results. In my case, I put together the steel one that will rust eventually, and when I want to re-do it I'll have to buy a new plate and the new nut type. If a builder did it with the new nut, the worst that would happen is they'd have to buy a new set of plates and use the original van's nut that came with the kit. Better to do it the best way first....unlike what I ended up doing. Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 Current section: Final Assembly DO NOT ARCHIVE bruce breckenridge wrote: > "Additonal notes: I hadn't ordered that new aluminum trim anchor > that's been talked about on the list, but after seeing how the angle of > the original one is, I would recommend that you buy those well in > advance of when you need them. I would bet they'd be much nicer. I had > to whack mine with a hammer to give them a little less angle so they'd > line up better. I had previously soldered them up to be tougher, so > this angle adjustment was even tougher to do now." > > So, Tim: Based on your experience with the sledge, do you think it > unwise to purchase this beautifully crafted "nut on a plate" that > doesn't appear to be easily smacked into a different position? > > Bruce > 40018


    Message 35


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    Time: 08:24:04 PM PST US
    From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
    Subject: Re: Appears to be a great adhesive.
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> UNknown, as I have only just started using. Aluminum however is one of the metals listed for its use. I see no reason why it should promote corrosion as it seals the metal off from the environment just like a thick, strong epoxy primer. John G. >From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com> >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. >Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 18:34:49 -0500 > >--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com> > >John, > What's its long term effect on aluminum? Will it cause corrosion? > >John Hasbrouck >#40264 > > >http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > >


    Message 36


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    Time: 08:27:55 PM PST US
    From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
    Subject: Appears to be a great adhesive.
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> The problem may become getting the fairing off if you ever needed to. You will certainly damage the fuselage skin. I think it would hold it that well. John >From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net> >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. >Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 19:01:28 -0500 > >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net> > >Any thoughts on using this stuff to attach the rudder cable fairings to the >fuselage? Seems like it might be a good fit if permanent enough. > >Marcus > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez >Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 1:41 PM >To: rv10-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. > >--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> > >Thank you. '''''''n""""" I better watch out for those rivets I leave out. >This actually brings up a point about proof reading your emails before >hitting the send button. >Some times it takes a while to figure out what someone is trying to be say. > >It was the Automotive/RV type, but it also said submergible and marine >applications Okay. > >It is good stuff. > >John > > >From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com> > >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> > >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. > >Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 13:07:59 -0500 > > > >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" > ><Tdawson@Avidyne.com> > > > > > >There's an 'n' missing. > > > >Try: http://anchortite.supergluecorp.com/epoxy.html > > > >They have a version called "Automotive/RV" so that must be for us! > > > >TDT > > > > > > > >-----Original Message----- > >From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry > >Grimmonpre > >Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:57 PM > >To: rv10-list@matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. > > > >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net> > > > >When Achor-Tite is googled it leads me to Plastic Grip Tite. Is this > >the > >same stuff? Where can Achor-Tite be purchased? Is Achor-Tite the > >correct > >spelling? What is missing? > >Thanks ... > >Jerry Grimmonpre' > >RV8A > >DO NOT ARCHIVE > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> > >To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> > >Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 11:21 PM > >Subject: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. > > > > > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" > ><indigoonlatigo@msn.com> > > > > > > Just thought I would share this with you all. I have used three metal > > > > > epoxy adhesives so far and the one I am most impressed with is a > >product > > > called "Achor-Tite". This product is trademarked under this name and > >is > > > made in California. > > > > > > The product claims to have holding strength of 2500psi tensil strength > >and > > > as impressive as that is, what I think is even better is that it has > >an > > > ability to have 30% elongation before deformation. It claims impact > > > resistence, meaning it is not brittle. It has a set time of 3-4 > >hours, > > > but parts need to be in contact within one hour. 100% cure in one > >week. > > > It is not moisture sensitve once set, can be used for marine > >applications. > > > I bonds several different mediums. > > > > > > In actual use what I found most interesting is that I cut a small > >piece of > > > aluminum house flashing to mix this stuff and the left over cured > >adhesive > > > will not come off the (smooth/polished) aluminum flashing. Even if I > >bend > > > this thin flashing over and over, the epoxy will not seperate. That > >is > > > impressive. I had used this stuff to glue in my horizontal stab nose > >ribs > > > a week before I riveted them in. I was not aware of this flashing > >result > > > until I used it again that I played with the excess on the flashing. > > > > > > Perhaps a drilled out rivet left a slightly enlarged hole. Use of > >this > > > product in addition to a backing plate might give one a little better > > > piece of mind when you re-rivet it. > > > > > > P.S. I am not advocating patching up your mistakes and being > >comfortable. > > > You are your own engineer and judge. > > > > > > John G. #409 > > > elevator trim tabs completed, difficult access for the rivets at the > > > control horn. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 37


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    Time: 11:51:30 PM PST US
    From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter@bigpond.net.au>
    Subject: Verticle Stabilizer
    Hi Group, As I am part way through the VS I have run into the same problem as I have read about previously. Plans say to remove 1/8 inch from VS 1013, VS 1005 and VS 1006 so as not to crease VS 1001 Vertical stabilizer skin with the point of these mentioned ribs Now, removing 1/8 has done nothing to solve the problem and at this point I have taken 1/4 inch off and when assembled and you look down through top of stabilizer the ribs do not sit flush in front of skin as I would like. It almost seems like these ribs have not be manufactured correctly. Can the fronts be re fabricated to change the actual shaper of the rib ?. Thank you Paul Walter.




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