Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:23 AM - Re: Batteries (Paul Walter)
2. 04:57 AM - Re: 3 ring binder for manual (steveadams)
3. 05:51 AM - Re: Zaon Traffic SystemZaon Traffic System (Wayne Edgerton)
4. 06:03 AM - Re: 3 ring binder for manual (bob.kaufmann)
5. 07:44 AM - Re: Verticle Stabilizer (John Gonzalez)
6. 07:57 AM - Re: Re: Super Duper Weight & Balance (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
7. 08:06 AM - Re: Verticle Stabilizer (John Jessen)
8. 08:40 AM - 3 ring binder (Chris Hukill)
9. 08:41 AM - Re: HS ribs (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
10. 08:46 AM - Re: RV-List: Build time, include helpers ? (JOHN STARN)
11. 09:16 AM - FW: W&B Calculations (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
12. 09:25 AM - Re: Zaon Traffic SystemZaon Traffic System (ajhauter@yahoo.com)
13. 09:31 AM - Re: Zaon Traffic SystemZaon Traffic System (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
14. 09:34 AM - Re: Re: RV-List: Build time, include helpers ? (John W. Cox)
15. 10:09 AM - Trying to find a Robin (John Jessen)
16. 12:22 PM - Re: HS ribs (John Gonzalez)
17. 02:20 PM - Plans Section 26 and 29 - dimpling (McGANN, Ron)
18. 03:30 PM - Re: Plans Section 26 and 29 - dimpling (PJ Seipel)
19. 04:46 PM - Andair Fuel Valves (Neal George)
20. 09:29 PM - Re: website problem??? (Robert G. Wright)
21. 10:19 PM - Re: Appears to be a great adhesive. (Chris W)
Message 1
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Hi Group,
As I am part way through the VS I have run into the same problem as I have read
about previously.
Plans say to remove 1/8 inch from VS 1013, VS 1005 and VS 1006 so as not to crease
VS 1001 Vertical stabilizer skin with the point of these mentioned ribs
Now, removing 1/8 has done nothing to solve the problem and at this point I have
taken 1/4 inch off and when assembled and you look down through top of stabilizer
the ribs do not sit flush in front of skin as I would like. It almost seems
like these ribs have not be manufactured correctly.
Can the fronts be re fabricated to change the actual shape of the rib ?.
Thank you
Paul Walter.
----- Original Message -----
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 9:26 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Batteries
Here's what I did, batteries are a pair of PC-680s. Not a problem to mod the
tray later.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 11:48 PM
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Batteries
I studied the archives a bit and found that several of you have installed dual
batteries. I cannot find any pictures of how the mods were made. Does anybody
have pictures of their battery mods??? I have not decided on which batteries
I will use yet. Do I need to know this before I build the tray???
Also, this may not be the right list to post this question, but, to those who
are considering the Egg H-6 for your -10, what are your battery thoughts/recommendations/locations???
Bill
RV-10 Tailcone
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: 3 ring binder for manual |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams@yahoo.com>
Again, maybe overkill, but my plans (CH640) came in an aluminum binder which would
be easy to make. The back is a single sheet of .050 aluminum sheet cut about
1 inch longer and wider than the drawings. The front is made up of 2 pieces
of aluminum sheet with a scrap piece of hinge material so the front opens like
a book. The front and back are held together with AN 3 bolts through the holes
in the plans. Its tough, you don't have to fold the plans so it is easy to
page back and forth between drawings, it will never let your pages rip out, and
it looks cool. Alodine and priming is optional :)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=9295#9295
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Zaon Traffic SystemZaon Traffic System |
That's tue, but I checked before buying the Ryan and the Chelton and Garmin will
both accept RS232 input from the Ryan.
Message 4
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| Subject: | 3 ring binder for manual |
John
I laughed so hard, my sides hurt and now I have to go to work and protect
this country. The pain in my side may be the beginning of a national
emergency because of the laughter.
Bob K
Forward top cowling
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 9:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual
I just rip each page out (I've given up trying to keep the holes from
ripping), immediately spill some hot tea on it to give it its proper
staining, fold it up and stuff it in my briefcase so I can unfold it in the
airport and look at it seriously hoping to impress someone with my technical
acumen. Mainly I take the page out so I can have that one page near,
beside, on top of the work at hand. Then, once finished with it, I take it
home with me so it's near the computer and I can enter my notes and time,
then finally onto a "completed" file of other, heroically stained and
mangled pages. War is war. I stand on the front line between aluminum and
civilization. You need me on that line; you want me on that line. I don't
have the time, nor the inclination to pamper my pages.
Histrionically yours,
John Jessen
~328 (skinning the Tailcone)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Jensen
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 8:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual
To reinforce the pages and prevent rip-out, run a strip of Scotch tape along
the edge of the page, covering the holes. Punch the holes again and you
have a super strong edge with holes that won't rip out. Cost: 0.01 cents
per page.
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen -
Work
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 10:41 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual
It's a bit overkill, but I took two strips of 1/8"x3/4" aluminum from the
hardware store and drilled them to correspond to the holes. I countersunk
and attached #8 nutplates to one for the back and countersunk and inserted
#8 screws through the front to sandwich all of the pages together. I went
this route mainly because I had so many ripped pages that I needed something
to pinch and hold them together.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual
Has anyone found a mail order source for a 3 ring binder for the manual? I
keep tearing the holes on mine, and would like to have a real binder for my
manual, but I can't find any locally, or on the internet. If anyone knows a
source, please let me know.
Thanx
Chris Hukill
Figuring out my aux fuel tank system
Message 5
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| Subject: | Verticle Stabilizer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Hello Paul,
If I am understanding your concerns correctly, I think what you are seeing
is that the skin on the inside surface while clecoed to the ribs finds the
nose of the rib(The metal forward of the most forward rib hole) is a high
spot and it causes the skin to dent out. In other words the contour is not
absolutely true and smooth. Perhaps the clecoes are not strong enough to
pull the skin tight to the rear of the most forward hole, against the rib
flanges, but even it they were, the skin will dent in, making the smooth
contour depart from ideal even more. If this is what you are taking about,
here are some options.
You can make cleco washers that will make the cleco springs pull harder. If
you do this and the inside of the skin is now pulled down against the rib
flange than that is good but then again use light on the outside skin to see
the contour. Is there a depression? If so here is my solution.
First, know that in my opinion as long as the skin shape is the same on the
right and the left you are alright. VS is not a lifting airfoil. Assuming
the skin will drape over the ribs equally from right to left side as it is
clecoed, then all we need to do is change the shape of the ribs to conform
to the shape of the draped skin.
This is a technique discussed with someone who worked for Lockheed. It is
called "wet shimming". You can sand the inside skin and the rib flange with
the 150 sand paper, only in these mating areas, clean with acetone or MEK
and bond the ribs in place with the clecoes(Not loaded with the custom
washers) and let cure for a week. Remove the clecoes and re drill the holes
and make sure that there are not lumps of epoxy on the inside of the rib
flanges. Better to do this before cure. Rivet the skin down, but first make
sure the called out rivets are long enough as you have now made the flanges
thicher. I rub vasoline on the cleco tongues so they do not get stuck. I
also soak the clecoes in acetone once I remove them. Or better, buy new
clecoes when you do your fuel tanks.
The epoxy I was writing about is what I used on the nose ribs of my HS. The
problem was much worse on the HS. This stuff drove me, the dentist crazy.
I am also more familiar with composite construction and not metal. Being a
Soaring pilot, I find it very difficult to emotiojnally deal with these
contour fluctuations.
Just my thoughts, for what it is worth.
John G #409
>From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter@bigpond.net.au>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: Verticle Stabilizer
>Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 18:46:44 +1100
>
>Hi Group,
>
>As I am part way through the VS I have run into the same problem as I have
>read about previously.
>Plans say to remove 1/8 inch from VS 1013, VS 1005 and VS 1006 so as not to
>crease VS 1001 Vertical stabilizer skin with the point of these mentioned
>ribs
>
>Now, removing 1/8 has done nothing to solve the problem and at this point I
>have taken 1/4 inch off and when assembled and you look down through top of
>stabilizer the ribs do not sit flush in front of skin as I would like. It
>almost seems like these ribs have not be manufactured correctly.
>
>Can the fronts be re fabricated to change the actual shaper of the rib ?.
>
>Thank you
>
>
>Paul Walter.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Super Duper Weight & Balance |
Would love to use the W&B but it says password protected. Would he fix that
for us? Appreciate sharing.
Doug
40372
Message 7
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| Subject: | Verticle Stabilizer |
Paul,
So the new plans have that as part of the VS? Great. As to how much, 1/8
inch is about right. I've attached a picture or two of what I did. You
might also put a flute in the web at the tip, thereby sucking in the sides a
bit to better match the shape of the skins. It's supposed to be tight, but
also it's supposed to not be too tight that you end up deforming the leading
edge.
Given that you've taken off enough so the ribs do not sit flush, and does
this mean you have a gap, then you might want some new ribs. You don't want
an appreciable gap between the nose of the rib and the leading edge. If
it's noticeable, when you try to rivet, you'll push in the skin at that
point. Some other builders might suggest filling that gap with an
appropriate thickness of scrape, and that might work, but ribs are cheap.
I'd start again.
John Jessen
~328 (Tailcone)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 11:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Verticle Stabilizer
Hi Group,
As I am part way through the VS I have run into the same problem as I have
read about previously.
Plans say to remove 1/8 inch from VS 1013, VS 1005 and VS 1006 so as not to
crease VS 1001 Vertical stabilizer skin with the point of these mentioned
ribs
Now, removing 1/8 has done nothing to solve the problem and at this point I
have taken 1/4 inch off and when assembled and you look down through top of
stabilizer the ribs do not sit flush in front of skin as I would like. It
almost seems like these ribs have not be manufactured correctly.
Can the fronts be re fabricated to change the actual shaper of the rib ?.
Thank you
Paul Walter.
Message 8
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I went to the local blueprint company and had my plans spiral-bound into 3 separate
books. The books are covered with a clear plastic sheet on the top and a
heavy paper cover on the back. This full width spiral binding looks like they
will really hold up without tearing, much more than a 3 ring binder. The whole
process was done while I waited for 10 minutes, and cost me $8. You can have
it done at Kinkos or Office Max/ Depot, but it will cost a lot more than at a
blueprint place.
Message 9
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In a message dated 2/3/2006 10:46:43 AM Eastern Standard Time,
indigoonlatigo@msn.com writes:
The problem was much worse on the HS. This stuff drove me, the dentist
crazy.
I found the HS nose ribs needed a little adjustment to follow the contour
of the pre-bent skins. The 3 prong vice grip pliers do fine or pressing the
corner of the rib against the wood work bench to add some curve to the very
front edge of the flange and retrying the part helped it sit passively in contact
with the skin. Obviously the nose ribs do very little, as they are spaced
so far apart. The biggest concern is to avoid the very front part of the nose
rib flange from damaging the skin contour.
(As a dentist, this was a simple adjustment to make...) sorry i couldnt
resist.
Steve
Stephen G. Blank,DDS
RV-10 #40499 ALmost ready to Rivet the HS
Cessna 170b Flyer
Port St Lucie, FL
772-475-5556 cell
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Build time, include helpers ? |
Cc: "rocket-list" <rocket-list@matronics.com>, "rv10-list" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
I know of one -6A that was "built" by the "owner" is just over 24 man hours
IF you only count HIS time spent working on the plane. He did supply the
money (kit, parts & payroll), hanger space & some of the tools. He was with
the award winning airplane at OSH to collect HIS trophy. Flown there & back
by someone else too.
We didn't keep track of building time with a stopwatch, a coupla (four or
five) calendars was close enough. KABONG 8*) Do Not Archive HRII N561FS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Build time, include helpers ?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
>
> I don't believe thee's any requirement anywhere regarding logging build
> time
> so I think it's up to you. Personally, I include build time of any helpers
> I
> have in the total, but that's just me. It was confusing me for awhile when
> I'd look at other people's sites where they keep track of build time and
> at
> some point they were a lot fasater than me. Upon review, it became obvious
> why (1) they had lots of help whose time wasn't being recorded and (2) I'm
> America's slowest homebuilder. (g)
Message 11
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| Subject: | FW: W&B Calculations |
Alright boys, here's the instructions:
The cells that are locked are locked for your own protection. You don't
need to edit them, they are for displaying data. The fields for you to
edit are those that have blue text. Such things include:
For each aircraft definition along the right side:
N-number and aircraft name
Empty weight, moment, arm
Usable fuel
Va & weight
Vgl & weight
Moment arms for seat, fuel, and baggage locations
Envelope definition (the columns of arms and weights down the middle for
each aircraft. Defines the points of the envelope to be drawn.)
For a particular flight, click on the radio button at the top to select
aircraft, then enter in the green table on the left your data for that
flight:
Pilot & copilot weight
PAX weight
Baggage weight
Fuel & Taxi allowance
Your estimated Fuel to be used for the flight (computes landing weight)
After you've updated the aircraft info and/or the information for the
envelope, you may need to click on another aircraft, then back to the
first aircraft, to get the macros to update the graph. Also, make sure
your security settings on Excel aren't preventing macros from running.
I hope that works better! Sorry to have thown it out without much
guidance before, but I had just gotten it, too.
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: Todd Handel
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 4:50 PM
Cc: Kevin Carey; Tim Dawson-Townsend
Subject: W&B Calculations
Sorry fellas... Rev 03 had some "issues"... please use this one.
From: Todd Handel
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 4:29 PM
Cc: Kevin Carey; Tim Dawson-Townsend
Subject: W&B Calculations
Steve, attached is the W&B spreadsheet that I made.... I can explain how
to use the sheet but basically the user would fill in blue text values.
The current sheet supports up to 6 aircraft.... after entering the data
select the radio button at the top to display and enter W&B information
for that aircraft.
I hope you find it helpful.
_________________________
Todd Handel - Lincoln x7417
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Zaon Traffic SystemZaon Traffic System |
Active certainly gives you more control, but passive coverage looks
pretty good. One way to make both systems much more effective is to
imbed the aircraft target gps coordinates in the transponder signal,
for those aircraft that have gps. Very simple approach. Would
provide much more accurate aircraft tracking not only for aircraft
avoidance but also for FAA tracking, even more accurate than
sophisticated military tracking radars can provide.
anyone want to start a business...
aj
sematters.info
>Note that the Zaon is a passive system, relying on ground radar or on
other TCAS-equipped aircraft to generate the "pings" that will
bounce
off target aircraft. So if you're too far from a ground
radar, and
there's not an airliner with TCAS nearby, you might not see
another
aircraft because no one is interrogating his transponder.
Ryan TAS, on the other hand, is an active system that
generates its own
"pings" so it will detect anyone with a transponder,
regardless of where
you are.
TDT
40025
Message 13
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| Subject: | Zaon Traffic SystemZaon Traffic System |
You're too late - you've just defined part of what ADS-B is . . .
http://www.flyadsb.com/
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ajhauter@yahoo.com
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic SystemZaon Traffic System
Active certainly gives you more control, but passive coverage looks
pretty good. One way to make both systems much more effective is to
imbed the aircraft target gps coordinates in the transponder signal, for
those aircraft that have gps. Very simple approach. Would provide
much more accurate aircraft tracking not only for aircraft avoidance but
also for FAA tracking, even more accurate than sophisticated military
tracking radars can provide.
anyone want to start a business...
aj
sematters.info
>Note that the Zaon is a passive system, relying on ground radar or on
other TCAS-equipped aircraft to generate the "pings" that will
bounce
off target aircraft. So if you're too far from a ground radar,
and
there's not an airliner with TCAS nearby, you might not see
another
aircraft because no one is interrogating his transponder.
Ryan TAS, on the other hand, is an active system that generates
its own
"pings" so it will detect anyone with a transponder, regardless of
where
you are.
TDT
40025
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Build time, include helpers ? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
I have a friend who shipped the work out as well on what became his
award winning RV-8. When he sold it, it was worth more. (As a result
of the award that is.. not the quality necessarily).
Don' lose sight of the 51% completion of the listed tasks and the
ability to meet the oral examination of the DAR as he is inspecting the
work. Then there is the certification that the owner/builder did the
work... not the hired shop.
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JOHN STARN
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 8:45 AM
Cc: rocket-list; rv10-list
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-List: Build time, include helpers ?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
I know of one -6A that was "built" by the "owner" is just over 24 man
hours
IF you only count HIS time spent working on the plane. He did supply the
money (kit, parts & payroll), hanger space & some of the tools. He was
with
the award winning airplane at OSH to collect HIS trophy. Flown there &
back
by someone else too.
We didn't keep track of building time with a stopwatch, a coupla (four
or
five) calendars was close enough. KABONG 8*) Do Not Archive HRII
N561FS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Build time, include helpers ?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins"
<bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
>
> I don't believe thee's any requirement anywhere regarding logging
build
> time
> so I think it's up to you. Personally, I include build time of any
helpers
> I
> have in the total, but that's just me. It was confusing me for awhile
when
> I'd look at other people's sites where they keep track of build time
and
> at
> some point they were a lot fasater than me. Upon review, it became
obvious
> why (1) they had lots of help whose time wasn't being recorded and (2)
I'm
> America's slowest homebuilder. (g)
Message 15
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| Subject: | Trying to find a Robin |
Robin Wessel, if you're monitoring the list, can you send me an email
offline. We're trying to get a dinner arranged of Oregon RV-10 builders for
next week, the opportunity based on Tim's visit for transition training, and
we cannot locate an email for you. Thanks
John Jessen
~328
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob.kaufmann
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 6:03 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual
John
I laughed so hard, my sides hurt and now I have to go to work and protect
this country. The pain in my side may be the beginning of a national
emergency because of the laughter.
Bob K
Forward top cowling
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 9:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual
I just rip each page out (I've given up trying to keep the holes from
ripping), immediately spill some hot tea on it to give it its proper
staining, fold it up and stuff it in my briefcase so I can unfold it in the
airport and look at it seriously hoping to impress someone with my technical
acumen. Mainly I take the page out so I can have that one page near,
beside, on top of the work at hand. Then, once finished with it, I take it
home with me so it's near the computer and I can enter my notes and time,
then finally onto a "completed" file of other, heroically stained and
mangled pages. War is war. I stand on the front line between aluminum and
civilization. You need me on that line; you want me on that line. I don't
have the time, nor the inclination to pamper my pages.
Histrionically yours,
John Jessen
~328 (skinning the Tailcone)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Jensen
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 8:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual
To reinforce the pages and prevent rip-out, run a strip of Scotch tape along
the edge of the page, covering the holes. Punch the holes again and you
have a super strong edge with holes that won't rip out. Cost: 0.01 cents
per page.
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen -
Work
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 10:41 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual
It's a bit overkill, but I took two strips of 1/8"x3/4" aluminum from the
hardware store and drilled them to correspond to the holes. I countersunk
and attached #8 nutplates to one for the back and countersunk and inserted
#8 screws through the front to sandwich all of the pages together. I went
this route mainly because I had so many ripped pages that I needed something
to pinch and hold them together.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual
Has anyone found a mail order source for a 3 ring binder for the manual? I
keep tearing the holes on mine, and would like to have a real binder for my
manual, but I can't find any locally, or on the internet. If anyone knows a
source, please let me know.
Thanx
Chris Hukill
Figuring out my aux fuel tank system
Message 16
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
I was not speaking of a lateral interference. What I am speaking of is more
like the concept of creating voids and trapping air bubbles in the corners
of your composite filling because the composite you are using is so stiff
that it cannot adapt to the shape of the preparation. In macro composite
construction, that is why we use a mix of light cotton flox and microballons
in the corners before we put the glass down. Micro composites, Flowables.
Believe it or not I believe most all the principles of physics apply
regardless of the size and medium one works with.
Just want to confirm we are on the same page. The corners were radiused in
addition to the bonding.
See Crazy right!.
JOhn
>From: LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: HS ribs
>Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 11:40:21 EST
>
>In a message dated 2/3/2006 10:46:43 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>indigoonlatigo@msn.com writes:
>The problem was much worse on the HS. This stuff drove me, the dentist
>crazy.
> I found the HS nose ribs needed a little adjustment to follow the
>contour
>of the pre-bent skins. The 3 prong vice grip pliers do fine or pressing the
>corner of the rib against the wood work bench to add some curve to the very
>front edge of the flange and retrying the part helped it sit passively in
>contact
>with the skin. Obviously the nose ribs do very little, as they are spaced
>so far apart. The biggest concern is to avoid the very front part of the
>nose
>rib flange from damaging the skin contour.
> (As a dentist, this was a simple adjustment to make...) sorry i couldnt
>resist.
>
>Steve
>
>Stephen G. Blank,DDS
>RV-10 #40499 ALmost ready to Rivet the HS
>Cessna 170b Flyer
>
>Port St Lucie, FL
>772-475-5556 cell
Message 17
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| Subject: | Plans Section 26 and 29 - dimpling |
Hi all,
My tribulations with Section 29 and the side skins continue.
Following is a query to Vans:
"I did not notice anything in the plans about dimpling F-1015B intercostals or
F-1015A Outboard Footwell ribs in Section 26. Section 29 calls for AN426 rivets
and seems to assume that the understructure has been countersunk or dimpled.
The top half of the F1015B behind the F-1015F can be readily dimpled, as can
most holes in the F-1015A (using a pop rivet dimpler). I cannot however dimple
the overlap between the 1015B and 1015A (insufficient dimpling pressure from
the pop rivet dies to dimple both skins together).
Is countersinking the F1070 side skins for 426 rivets (rather than dimpling the
skins and understructure) acceptable along the vertical row of holes joining
the skin, 1015A and 1015B?"
Vans Response:
"We have recently discovered this, and will be revising the instructions slightly.
In your case, rather than c'sinking the skins, engineering suggests that you drill
the holes that won't/can't dimple to #30 and installing 470AD4 rivets. These
are inside the profile of the wing and won't be seen when the wing and root
fairing are installed."
If I remember right, Section 26 does not address preparation of the F1015A at all.
Vans acknowledges a deficiency in the plans. For those that have preceded, how
did you treat this issue? Is there some other way of dimpling these overlapping
parts?
thx,
Ron #187
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Plans Section 26 and 29 - dimpling |
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
I dimpled the top half of the 1015A and then countersunk the part that
overlaps with the 1015B. I dimpled the F1070 side skins.
PJ
RV-10 #40032
McGANN wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> My tribulations with Section 29 and the side skins continue.
>
> Following is a query to Vans:
>
> "I did not notice anything in the plans about dimpling F-1015B intercostals or
F-1015A Outboard Footwell ribs in Section 26. Section 29 calls for AN426 rivets
and seems to assume that the understructure has been countersunk or dimpled.
The top half of the F1015B behind the F-1015F can be readily dimpled, as
can most holes in the F-1015A (using a pop rivet dimpler). I cannot however dimple
the overlap between the 1015B and 1015A (insufficient dimpling pressure
from the pop rivet dies to dimple both skins together).
>
> Is countersinking the F1070 side skins for 426 rivets (rather than dimpling the
skins and understructure) acceptable along the vertical row of holes joining
the skin, 1015A and 1015B?"
>
> Vans Response:
>
> "We have recently discovered this, and will be revising the instructions slightly.
>
> In your case, rather than c'sinking the skins, engineering suggests that you
drill the holes that won't/can't dimple to #30 and installing 470AD4 rivets.
These are inside the profile of the wing and won't be seen when the wing and root
fairing are installed."
>
> If I remember right, Section 26 does not address preparation of the F1015A at
all.
>
> Vans acknowledges a deficiency in the plans. For those that have preceded, how
did you treat this issue? Is there some other way of dimpling these overlapping
parts?
>
> thx,
>
> Ron #187
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valves |
Gentlemen -
I have some Andair products available.
FS20F5FMF-AUX Fuel Selector Valves
FS20X7T Fuel Selector Valves
EX-7 6-inch extension kits for the FS20X7
Please contact me off-list for details.
<mailto:neal@appaero.com> neal@appaero.com or phones below.
Neal E. George
244 Andrews Street
Maxwell AFB, AL 36113
Home - 334-262-8993
Cell - 334-546-2033
Message 20
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| Subject: | website problem??? |
Bill,
Short answer: I believe that theoretically flush kits should be more
accurate
If you dig through an aerodynamics manual, you'll find that as the airplane
travels through the air, there is (obviously) a relative wind that travels
in the opposite direction, and is even more aligned with the fuselage in
trimmed (coordinated) flight. As this relative wind flows around the
airframe, there is a boundary layer that is a certain thickness -- it may be
in millimeters or larger or smaller - that lies just off the airframe
itself. If something sticks out far enough from the airframe, it protrudes
through this boundary layer and into the slipstream, giving you parasitic
drag. At a minimum you'll be affecting the laminar flow of the air around
the protrusion. However, if something protrudes slightly from the airframe
and not into the slipstream, it enjoys a fairly calm environment, which is
why static ports are along the sides of the airframe in most instances. The
"opposite" of the static port is, as you know, the ram air port, or pitot
tube. Vans apparently has done enough research to feel comfortable that
their dome-type static ports don't break the boundary layer into the
slipstream. If it did I'm sure that some kind of a vacuum effect would
occur through the static system because then there would be a higher
pressure in the static lines than the flow of air over the static port.
Rest of short answer: I just riveted on my safeair static ports tonight. I
didn't have any issues with their website 2 weeks ago. I would like to see
who out there has a resource for inline drains for the pitot/static system.
Rob
#392
Riveting tailcone
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 10:56 PM
Subject: RV10-List: website problem???
I'm trying to go to Safeair1's website and I keep getting an error message
when I get there. Anybody else experiencing this???
I'm also curious if anybody flying with the Safeair1 static ports could give
some feedback on their performance. Are they accurate??? I know that it
looks like a pretty nice kit and user friendly with the quick disconnects
but I've been reading in the archives how the flush static kits don't seem
to be as accurate as the "dome-type" that Vans offers.
Any hints/suggestions???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Tailcone
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Appears to be a great adhesive. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Chris W <3edcft6@cox.net>
John Gonzalez wrote:
> The problem may become getting the fairing off if you ever needed to.
> You will certainly damage the fuselage skin. I think it would hold it
> that well.
>
Heat will probably take it off. Most glues break down with enough
heat. You may even have to get it hot enough to ruin the paint, but if
you have to take it off you probably will need to repaint it anyway.
--
Chris W
KE5GIX
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