Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:38 AM - Re: Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket (Paul Walter)
2. 05:46 AM - Re: Fuel sender and Pitot mount question (Tim Lewis)
3. 06:23 AM - Re: Fuel sender and Pitot mount question (Larry Rosen)
4. 06:51 AM - Re: Fuel sender mount heads-up (Deems Davis)
5. 07:42 AM - Re: Fuel sender (Larry Rosen)
6. 10:24 AM - Instrument Panel (Gary Specketer)
7. 11:09 AM - Re: Instrument Panel (Sam Marlow)
8. 12:18 PM - Re: Instrument Panel (David McNeill)
9. 03:11 PM - Re: Instrument Panel (RAS)
10. 03:41 PM - Re: Instrument Panel (David McNeill)
11. 06:51 PM - Re: Trim Cable Anchor Bracket Installation (Bill and Tami Britton)
12. 06:53 PM - Re: Fuel tank return line (Darton Steve)
13. 07:22 PM - Re: Fuel tank return line (Chris)
14. 08:03 PM - Exhaust problem - advice sought (Tim Olson)
15. 08:12 PM - Re: Exhaust problem - advice sought (Marcus Cooper)
16. 08:15 PM - Re: Exhaust problem - advice sought (Kelly McMullen)
17. 08:35 PM - Re: Fuel sender mount heads-up (Richard Sipp)
18. 08:40 PM - Tail cone bulkhead cracks (John Gonzalez)
19. 09:13 PM - Re: Exhaust problem - advice sought (linn Walters)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter@bigpond.net.au>
What would be the all up cost for all of these items mentioned ?
Paul Walter
----- Original Message -----
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 2:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
>
> Jeff and fellow RV10 builders. Yes, Dave is still making these parts. If
> fact, he did a few more (see photos below). Dave is trying to put
> together an "RV10 Tail Kit". This kit will have many of the harder to
> make parts such as brackets, spacers and such. As I work on my tail kit,
> I ask Dave to make a part. He programs it on Solid Works and goes to town
> on the CNC.
>
> Dave is hoping to put the following items in this RV10 Tail Kit
> Supplement....
>
> Horizontal Stab Attach Brackets (hard to make for the builder so Dave
> did it on the CNC with all holes predrilled! This is one bracket that
> must be done right because it holds the front spar of the HS Stab to
> the fuselage.)
>
> Trim Cable Attach Bracket. The supplied Vans part is a cheap looking
> part and binds the trim cable on my plane. Dave has a CNC billet
> one that is 3 times stronger with the proper angle.
>
> Pre cut foam blocks. Dave did mine on the CNC and they fit perfect!
>
> CNC milled static air ports. See photo.
>
> CNC cut brackets for the trim motor bracket and cables.
>
> More to come. Call Dave at 302-437-6087. He can answer all questions
> on parts and prices.
>
> Zack
> #40512 ( tail cone riveting tomorrow! Wings ship next Monday!)
>
>
> [quote="jdalton77(at)comcast.net"]Zack,
> ?
> Is Dave still making these replacement parts? and how can I order a set
> for my project??
> ?
> I saw you referenced a web site in one message.? Does he have one?
> ?
> Jeff
> Closing up VS and Rudder
>
>> ---
>
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=10116#10116
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03648_195.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03738_800.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04142_162.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04140_159.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04136_194.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04134_302.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04132_840.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04130_117.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04108_272.jpg
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel sender and Pitot mount question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
I ran a piece of string through a couple of holes (in the access plate,
as I recall) allowing me to pull the sender up and down (using the
string). I had the same problem with limited movement.
I suggested to Vans that the fuel sender be included with the QB wing,
and that the sender arm be bent when the tank is being built.
Otherwise, as you noted, it's difficult (I gave up) to get it adjusted
so it moves freely without binding on stiffeners somewhere.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 830 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
> Looking for suggestions on inspecting the fuel senders to verify they
> are moving freely all the way up and down in the tank. I have
> quickbuild wings and did not have the luxury of installing them before
> finishing the fuel tank. I believe they are hitting the stiffener and
> not going up between the fuel vent line and stiffener............thus
> not going UP completely. This would show a tank less than FULL. Any
> ideas?
>
> I also have a Dynon pitot mount bracket/pitot. It is angled to go under
> the lip of the wing spar with 3 rivots. I am also running angle aluminum
> 90 degrees to the front lip along the bottom skin spar............is it
> recommended to use a doubler plate like the GRETZ model also? Appears
> to be very sturdy without a doubler plate. If any one has pics of their
> Dynon bracket mounted I would enjoy seeing them.
>
> Thanks,
>
> DEAN
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Try Juno Platinum for Free! Then, only $9.95/month!
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel sender and Pitot mount question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
This is how I installed the fuel sender into my quickbuild wings
I bend the rod per the plans.
I attached safety wire to the rod
The safety wire was fished through the bottom drain opening (VA-112)
I connected a multimeter to the fuel sender and measured the resistance
through the range of the fuel sender using the safety wire to move the
float up and down.
I would shine a flash light through the finger strainer (VA-141) on the
inboard side of the wing and try to look through the drain opening with
the safety wire to see where the float was hitting.
Then remove the fuel sender, tweak / rebend the rod, re-install and
check the range of motion with the multimeter.
Do this over and over again until you get the full range from the float :-(
Real pain in the a$$.
In the end I got resistance reading
Right tank: empty 247 ohms, full 29 ohms
Left tank: empty 246 ohms, full 33 ohms.
There is a picture of the safety wire through the drain opening on my
website. Now I need to add the commentary to have it make sense. The
photo is here
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Wings/FuelLevel/index.html>
Larry Rosen
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Tim Lewis wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
>
> I ran a piece of string through a couple of holes (in the access
> plate, as I recall) allowing me to pull the sender up and down (using
> the string). I had the same problem with limited movement.
>
> I suggested to Vans that the fuel sender be included with the QB wing,
> and that the sender arm be bent when the tank is being built.
> Otherwise, as you noted, it's difficult (I gave up) to get it adjusted
> so it moves freely without binding on stiffeners somewhere.
>
> Tim
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel sender mount heads-up |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I built my own tanks but still had a lot of difficulty getting the
sender on one side to go thru its full range of motion without
hitting/binding on a stiffener at either the top or bottom. It only
happened on one side. I finally determined that the angle that the
sender unit was mounted to the attach plate was different that the other
unit. No amount of bending would help because anything that I did to
make it better on one end of the travel only made it worse on the other.
They are assembled using a single large rivet. And appparently the
quality control is weak. I was able to 'adjust' the angle with some
encouragement from the vise and a pair of channel locks, and the problem
disappeared as the 'swing plane' was now correct.
Deems Davis # 406
Wings- finishing
http://deemsrv10.com/
Larry Rosen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
> This is how I installed the fuel sender into my quickbuild wings
> I bend the rod per the plans.
> I attached safety wire to the rod
> The safety wire was fished through the bottom drain opening (VA-112)
> I connected a multimeter to the fuel sender and measured the
> resistance through the range of the fuel sender using the safety wire
> to move the float up and down.
> I would shine a flash light through the finger strainer (VA-141) on
> the inboard side of the wing and try to look through the drain opening
> with the safety wire to see where the float was hitting.
> Then remove the fuel sender, tweak / rebend the rod, re-install and
> check the range of motion with the multimeter.
> Do this over and over again until you get the full range from the
> float :-(
> Real pain in the a$$.
> In the end I got resistance reading
> Right tank: empty 247 ohms, full 29 ohms
> Left tank: empty 246 ohms, full 33 ohms.
>
> There is a picture of the safety wire through the drain opening on my
> website. Now I need to add the commentary to have it make sense. The
> photo is here
> <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Wings/FuelLevel/index.html>
>
> Larry Rosen
> http://lrosen.nerv10.com
>
> Tim Lewis wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
>>
>> I ran a piece of string through a couple of holes (in the access
>> plate, as I recall) allowing me to pull the sender up and down (using
>> the string). I had the same problem with limited movement.
>>
>> I suggested to Vans that the fuel sender be included with the QB
>> wing, and that the sender arm be bent when the tank is being built.
>> Otherwise, as you noted, it's difficult (I gave up) to get it
>> adjusted so it moves freely without binding on stiffeners somewhere.
>>
>> Tim
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 5
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Does the gasket supplied with the fuel sender get installed along with
prosealing it in place? I believe that the gasket is not installed.
--
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Instrument Panel |
I am about ready to do the instrument panel and have not yet finalized what
instruments that I want. I am interested in how much cutting most builders
did to allow enough room for their instruments. I remember some pictures of
Vic Syricuse's but can't find them. Any imput from those who have gone
before?
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel |
This what I did, It's low profile, and plenty strong. I believe it's
90/1000 ths, AL.
Gary Specketer wrote:
> I am about ready to do the instrument panel and have not yet finalized
> what instruments that I want. I am interested in how much cutting
> most builders did to allow enough room for their instruments. I
> remember some pictures of Vic Syricuse's but can't find them. Any
> imput from those who have gone before?
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel |
You really need to know which avionics and where they are going. The depth of the
sub panel is insufficient for most avionics. see the picture...After you select
the radios you will need to cut some holes in the subpanel or allow some
radios to protrude out from the instrument panel.
Secondly unless you have masochistic tendencies you should design your panel and
let a vendor cut it for the instruments with a machine. Having cut all the holes
in the panel for my Glastar I know that it is not a small task. see the precut
panel. and the panel powder coated and partially assembled.
----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Marlow
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Instrument Panel
This what I did, It's low profile, and plenty strong. I believe it's 90/1000
ths, AL.
Gary Specketer wrote:
I am about ready to do the instrument panel and have not yet finalized what
instruments that I want. I am interested in how much cutting most builders
did to allow enough room for their instruments. I remember some pictures of Vic
Syricuse's but can't find them. Any imput from those who have gone before?
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel |
Hi,
I Seem to recall that it says in the instructions that the ribs behind the panel
should not be cut? This is also the same for the crossbar.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel |
I check that with several avionics shops that service RVs and find that most are
"trimmed" as necessary to make the radios fit. However that does not mean that
the ribs are not reinforced to be stronger than original. You will note in
the pictures I sent that good use was made of the odds and ends of the Z channels
from other parts of the aircraft. The end result is a modified rib that is
at least as strong as the original. The crossbar was not cut and the instrument
panel was machine cut from an .090 2024t3 rather than the supplied .062 sheet.
----- Original Message -----
From: RAS
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Instrument Panel
Hi,
I Seem to recall that it says in the instructions that the ribs behind the panel
should not be cut? This is also the same for the crossbar.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Cable Anchor Bracket Installation |
Dave, could you post a pic of you trim tab brackets when installed??
Bill
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: David Hertner
To: RV10-List@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 6:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Trim Cable Anchor Bracket Installation
Listers,
I received my two trim cable anchor brackets from Dave the other day via
UPS. Dave provided a great service and I would recommend that you all get your
orders in. This is a great fix to a poorly designed bracket. I just finished
replicating the two cover plates that they attach to. This had to be done because
the bolt pattern is different from the original brackets. It took me about
2 hours to draw and cut them out of the aluminum pieces that came with the emp
kit.
I have decided that I want to be able to remove them from the access cover
so I have dimpled the access cover and countersunk the bottom of the bracket.
I am going to install them using stainless AN507C-632R6 screws with AN365-632
lock nuts. People have commented about the inability to rotate the older nut
when mounted to the access plate. I felt that it would be much easier to adjust
the cable relative to the anchor bracket by spinning the anchor bracket around
the cable. I now have only to remove the cover screws and detach the anchor
bracket from the cover to adjust/service the cable.
I hope this helps.
Dave Hertner
40164 - Emp finished ordering QB balance of kit.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank return line |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Where and how have fuel return lines been added to the
tanks. I'm not sure if I will need them but it will be
easy to add it during construction.
Steve 40212
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank return line |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris" <toaster73@earthlink.net>
I added mine using the same method as the vent line. The ribs already have a
snap bushing hole at the top in the rear so thats where I put the return
line, running it all the way up to terminate on the other side of the filler
cap from the vent line.
-Chris Lucas
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 9:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel tank return line
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
>
> Where and how have fuel return lines been added to the
> tanks. I'm not sure if I will need them but it will be
> easy to add it during construction.
>
> Steve 40212
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Exhaust problem - advice sought |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I was almost ready to fire the engine up today. I went to
install my plugs and found that my EGT probe locations I
chose on the right half of the engine interfered with my
sparkplugs. I had left the engine pickled, so I never
removed the temporary plugs they had in the cylinders, lest
I lose my oil that was in the cylinders.
So, now I need to move the probes. Repositioning them
is easy, but has anyone ever had to have old EGT
probe holes patched up before? Should they
just weld them up, or will that tend to enlarge them
instead of filling them? Monday a.m. I'm going to
get on the phone with an aerospace welding shop, but I just
thought I'd take a chance here and see if my inbox brings
me any good news in the a.m.
I would have finished my W&B today and been only about
2 hours away from being ready for inspection if I hadn't
hit this bump.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 15
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| Subject: | Exhaust problem - advice sought |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Tim,
Just a stab in the dark, but you might consider using an old probe and
leave it in there to fill the hole. Maybe trim down the length to minimize
any extra interference with the exhaust. I just glued the right door
together so my brain may not be coming up with the most useful ideas!
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 11:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Exhaust problem - advice sought
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I was almost ready to fire the engine up today. I went to
install my plugs and found that my EGT probe locations I
chose on the right half of the engine interfered with my
sparkplugs. I had left the engine pickled, so I never
removed the temporary plugs they had in the cylinders, lest
I lose my oil that was in the cylinders.
So, now I need to move the probes. Repositioning them
is easy, but has anyone ever had to have old EGT
probe holes patched up before? Should they
just weld them up, or will that tend to enlarge them
instead of filling them? Monday a.m. I'm going to
get on the phone with an aerospace welding shop, but I just
thought I'd take a chance here and see if my inbox brings
me any good news in the a.m.
I would have finished my W&B today and been only about
2 hours away from being ready for inspection if I hadn't
hit this bump.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust problem - advice sought |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
Any good welder familiar with stainless steel can weld up the old holes.
A really good welder can do it in a way it will be barely detectable.
IIRC You have two of the big names in exhaust repair within one
state...Dawley in WI and Aerospace Welding or something like that in MN.
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I was almost ready to fire the engine up today. I went to
> install my plugs and found that my EGT probe locations I
> chose on the right half of the engine interfered with my
> sparkplugs. I had left the engine pickled, so I never
> removed the temporary plugs they had in the cylinders, lest
> I lose my oil that was in the cylinders.
>
> So, now I need to move the probes. Repositioning them
> is easy, but has anyone ever had to have old EGT
> probe holes patched up before? Should they
> just weld them up, or will that tend to enlarge them
> instead of filling them? Monday a.m. I'm going to
> get on the phone with an aerospace welding shop, but I just
> thought I'd take a chance here and see if my inbox brings
> me any good news in the a.m.
>
> I would have finished my W&B today and been only about
> 2 hours away from being ready for inspection if I hadn't
> hit this bump.
>
> Tim
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel sender mount heads-up |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
Guys:
Remember the fuel tank sender units supplied by Van are two different part
numbers and are "left and right"
>From page 18-7 second line' "Use part number IE-385B for the left fuel tank;
use IE F-385C for the right tank."
I'm not sure if this is related to the issue being discussed but a
possibility at least.
Dick Sipp
N110DV #40065
Message 18
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| Subject: | Tail cone bulkhead cracks |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
I got started on my tail cone this weekend and I found two of my bulkheads
had cracks in the center bend over flange. This flange metal is not used
for anything except to provide some stiffness to the structure. The F 1010
bulkhead had three cracks in one corner and one that nearly went to the web
of the bulkhead.
I will call Van's tomorrow to find out what they say, but my fealing is that
if you can see the split, there my be more that is there which you can't
see. All cracks are atleast 3mm long and some as wide as 1mm at the start.
Any concensus on this. There is so much concern about inadvertently
scratching aluminum for fear of creating weak point, this seems not
acceptable.
If I have to send them back it will probably cost $25-30 bucks and for
what.
John G. 409
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust problem - advice sought |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Tim Olson wrote:
Just weld them up ...... or you can just place a SS clamp over the hole
..... if there's room. A bit of 'muffler patch' under the clamp
probably won't hurt either.
Linn do not archive
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I was almost ready to fire the engine up today. I went to
> install my plugs and found that my EGT probe locations I
> chose on the right half of the engine interfered with my
> sparkplugs. I had left the engine pickled, so I never
> removed the temporary plugs they had in the cylinders, lest
> I lose my oil that was in the cylinders.
>
> So, now I need to move the probes. Repositioning them
> is easy, but has anyone ever had to have old EGT
> probe holes patched up before? Should they
> just weld them up, or will that tend to enlarge them
> instead of filling them? Monday a.m. I'm going to
> get on the phone with an aerospace welding shop, but I just
> thought I'd take a chance here and see if my inbox brings
> me any good news in the a.m.
>
> I would have finished my W&B today and been only about
> 2 hours away from being ready for inspection if I hadn't
> hit this bump.
>
> Tim
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