Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:22 AM - Re: Cabin door opening (Tim Olson)
2. 05:22 AM - Re: Cabin door opening (Tim Olson)
3. 05:28 AM - Re: Cabin (inside) paint (Tim Olson)
4. 05:51 AM - RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10 (Kent Forsythe)
5. 05:58 AM - Re: Cabin door opening (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
6. 05:58 AM - Re: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10 (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
7. 06:05 AM - Re: Cabin (inside) paint (Larry Rosen)
8. 09:48 AM - Re: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10 (Chris Johnston)
9. 10:03 AM - Re: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10 (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
10. 10:41 AM - Capacitance Senders vs. Float Type (Jeff Carpenter)
11. 12:25 PM - Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer (Larry Rosen)
12. 12:42 PM - W&B Paperwork (Tim Olson)
13. 01:21 PM - Re: W&B Paperwork (Gary Specketer)
14. 02:23 PM - Re: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer (bruce breckenridge)
15. 02:23 PM - Re: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer (bruce breckenridge)
16. 02:39 PM - Re: Cabin door opening (Marcus Cooper)
17. 05:07 PM - Re: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer (Bill and Tami Britton)
18. 05:31 PM - Re: Cabin door opening (Byron Gillespie)
19. 06:45 PM - Re: Capacitance Senders vs. Float Type (John Gonzalez)
20. 06:57 PM - Re: Capacitance Senders vs. Float Type (Dj Merrill)
21. 07:02 PM - Re: Capacitance Senders vs. Float Type (linn Walters)
22. 09:15 PM - Re: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer (AndrewTR30@aol.com)
23. 10:32 PM - Re: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer (John Gonzalez)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin door opening |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Byron,
You should post a pic of your door and then one of the gutter
from the outside. With careful filing, you shouldn't have too
much roughness in that gap. There's not much left of the
outward lip of the channel when you get the door fit. Some
of the gap will depend on if you fabric cover your door, or
if you smooth and paint it plain. I can say though that if
you're careful, that gap can be minimal. I made sure mine was
able to have a piece of paper pulled through it easily, but
that's about the extent of much of the gap....maybe a bunch
more on the bottom by accident. I don't know if I'd bother
filling the gap with epoxy until you're ready to paint.
You might find when you're at the painting stage that you need
to adjust even more. Also, if you plan to fabric cover the
door, put some scraps around the lip and check the fit.
I ended up re-sanding the lip after I put fabric on because
I needed MORE gap. What may look huge now may be smaller
when you get further along.
Good luck,
Tim
Byron Gillespie wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1@charter.net>
>
> Hi Marcus:
>
> I have been watching your question and haven't seen any response. I have
> just finished the "rough" door fitting and my gap is very irregular. I
> spent two weekends working on them and still don't feel satisfied. I may
> just mask off the door face, clamp down then fill the gap with epoxy
> filler to make more uniform. I'll make that decision when the latch is
> completed where I can lock down as it will be in final. I'll also have
> to build up some on the outside to make it all work out flush. There are
> some areas around the rear window that came in thin of material. I will
> have to build up some more locally before gluing the windows.
>
> Sounds like we are pretty close in the build cycle. I have a bit more to
> do then jump on the windows. More fun..... If I can find the time, I
> would like to drop down and compare notes. You are always welcome to
> venture up to Douglas as well.
> Do not archive
>
> Byron
> #40253 Finishing kit - I hate fiberglass :-)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
> Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 7:46 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Cabin door opening
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I am installing the doors and discovered the scribe line wasn't too
> accurate. I have a question and a request.
>
> First, is everyone maintaining the 1/16th to 1/8th" gap all the way
> around
> the opening or is the gap larger. It seems like a much larger gap based
> on
> some pictures I took at Sun-n-Fun but it's hard to tell for sure.
>
> My request is, could someone post a picture of the inside of the door
> while
> closed to see the gap?
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin door opening |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
The windows: Marcus, that's an easy one. The washers will actually
help a lot with the windows because with that gap there the window
glue itself will be the filler. I would almost guarantee that
you'll need washers all the way around. Just use a dab of superglue
to stick them in place and then apply the glue and put the window
in. On my site I gave some tips about the windows...learned the
hard way. Just don't leave any of that glue anywhere you don't
have to....it's tough to get off.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> Byron,
> We do seem to be running neck and neck on the project. I would
> definitely still like to visit you and your project as well. I have a
> friend who has spent a lot of time up there with the B-25 projects and I
> keep meaning to check that out as well.
>
> It sounds like we have similar problems and solutions. I was hoping to see
> some better pictures of a closed door to get a good idea of what is
> required. I've scoured the websites to no avail other than some pictures of
> the 220HP prototype and it appears they cut the door frame back pretty far
> but I just can't be sure. As for the window, the plans mention using
> washers spaced about every 4" to raise the window if required. However, it
> seems like that method would leave a gap around most of the window on the
> inside that would need to be filled somehow.
>
> Marcus
>
> Do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Byron Gillespie
> Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 6:19 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin door opening
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1@charter.net>
>
> Hi Marcus:
>
> I have been watching your question and haven't seen any response. I have
> just finished the "rough" door fitting and my gap is very irregular. I
> spent two weekends working on them and still don't feel satisfied. I may
> just mask off the door face, clamp down then fill the gap with epoxy
> filler to make more uniform. I'll make that decision when the latch is
> completed where I can lock down as it will be in final. I'll also have
> to build up some on the outside to make it all work out flush. There are
> some areas around the rear window that came in thin of material. I will
> have to build up some more locally before gluing the windows.
>
> Sounds like we are pretty close in the build cycle. I have a bit more to
> do then jump on the windows. More fun..... If I can find the time, I
> would like to drop down and compare notes. You are always welcome to
> venture up to Douglas as well.
> Do not archive
>
> Byron
> #40253 Finishing kit - I hate fiberglass :-)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
> Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 7:46 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Cabin door opening
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I am installing the doors and discovered the scribe line wasn't too
> accurate. I have a question and a request.
>
> First, is everyone maintaining the 1/16th to 1/8th" gap all the way
> around
> the opening or is the gap larger. It seems like a much larger gap based
> on
> some pictures I took at Sun-n-Fun but it's hard to tell for sure.
>
> My request is, could someone post a picture of the inside of the door
> while
> closed to see the gap?
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
>
>
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin (inside) paint |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Ron,
I like a satin or matt finish, but not quite flat or eggshell. You
might want to avoid the reflectivity of gloss. On my site I have
some stuff about PPG DX 685 I think is the number. That stuff
you can add to both clearcoat and paint and it's a flattening
agent. I added about 20oz to ever 32 of paint per the ratio
instructions...somewhere between semi-gloss and eggshell if
I rememeber right. I very much like how the flattness came out.
On a couple of panels like headset jack covers, I made it too
flat and I don't like that as much. My big regret about
the interior is that I painted WAY too much stuff. I should
have primed and left much of it and saved money and weight.
Abby's interiors are so nice that you don't have much metal left
to see when you're done.
As for colors, you can't go wrong with grey shades, but many
others will look good too. I prefer a darker interior myself.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> Time to paint the cabin. Any opinions on gloss vs satin vs matt? The
> -10 cabin is pretty big, any advantages/disadvantages of light vs dark
> shades etc? I am a philistine when it comes to color selection, paint
> schemes, interior design and other shiela stuff - and I don't think my
> wife is much better ;-(. I hate this part. Let me pound them rivets
> and crimp them wires any day . . .
>
> All suggestions hugely appreciated.
>
> thanks in advance
> Ron
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
Has anyone tries using capacitance senders designed for the RV8 in the RV10 tanks?
If so, was much modification required? Do they seem to fit/work OK?
Thanks in advance,
Kent Forsythe
40338
Wings
Message 5
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| Subject: | Cabin door opening |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
That is what I did. Wait till you get the latch mounted and
drilled to frame, then I put tape on the inside edge of the door all
around the outside, then I put filler on the door lip and closed the
door until it was dry. Sand off the excess and you have a gap that is
perfect all the way around. I even built out the bottom edge to form a
nice 1/2" wide area that fit to the door. I took me a week and filling
and sanding, but it looks really good now.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
Interior painted and installing things for good.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Byron
Gillespie
Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 5:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin door opening
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1@charter.net>
Hi Marcus:
I have been watching your question and haven't seen any response. I have
just finished the "rough" door fitting and my gap is very irregular. I
spent two weekends working on them and still don't feel satisfied. I may
just mask off the door face, clamp down then fill the gap with epoxy
filler to make more uniform. I'll make that decision when the latch is
completed where I can lock down as it will be in final. I'll also have
to build up some on the outside to make it all work out flush. There are
some areas around the rear window that came in thin of material. I will
have to build up some more locally before gluing the windows.
Sounds like we are pretty close in the build cycle. I have a bit more to
do then jump on the windows. More fun..... If I can find the time, I
would like to drop down and compare notes. You are always welcome to
venture up to Douglas as well.
Do not archive
Byron
#40253 Finishing kit - I hate fiberglass :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 7:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin door opening
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
I am installing the doors and discovered the scribe line wasn't too
accurate. I have a question and a request.
First, is everyone maintaining the 1/16th to 1/8th" gap all the way
around
the opening or is the gap larger. It seems like a much larger gap based
on
some pictures I took at Sun-n-Fun but it's hard to tell for sure.
My request is, could someone post a picture of the inside of the door
while
closed to see the gap?
Thanks,
Marcus
Message 6
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| Subject: | RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Custom length capacitive sensors available from Skysports. We used 8
inch bendable, 8 inch measuring, bent in an 'S'. About $75 each.
See Skysports website - they have lots of info.
This is another good Wiki topic, since it gets asked about every 5
months or so . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Forsythe
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 8:51 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe
<matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
Has anyone tries using capacitance senders designed for the RV8 in the
RV10 tanks? If so, was much modification required? Do they seem to
fit/work OK?
Thanks in advance,
Kent Forsythe
40338
Wings
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin (inside) paint |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I am using RM (BASF) single step paint UNO-HD. It is a light gray satin
finish (flattner is already mixed in). The color or stock number is
9112A 225306. It is compatible with the Akzo Nobel primer that I am
using. I am planning on a silver gray headliner, charcoal floor mats,
and light gray side wall panels. I had the rudder peddle supports,
control stick and center canopy support powder coated charcoal. You can
see photos here
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Fuselage/Interior/index.html>
Larry Rosen
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> Time to paint the cabin. Any opinions on gloss vs satin vs matt? The
> -10 cabin is pretty big, any advantages/disadvantages of light vs dark
> shades etc? I am a philistine when it comes to color selection, paint
> schemes, interior design and other shiela stuff - and I don't think my
> wife is much better ;-(. I hate this part. Let me pound them rivets
> and crimp them wires any day . . .
>
> All suggestions hugely appreciated.
>
> thanks in advance
> Ron
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Hey TDT -
I also went with skysports, but they haven't arrived yet. I have a
question for you - are you measuring in just one bay? I purchased a set
that are 6" bendable, 20" measuring, and I've prepared to have the probe
bend up, then go diagonally through the first 2 bays. Just wondering
what your thoughts are on that?
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 5:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
<Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Custom length capacitive sensors available from Skysports. We used 8
inch bendable, 8 inch measuring, bent in an 'S'. About $75 each.
See Skysports website - they have lots of info.
This is another good Wiki topic, since it gets asked about every 5
months or so . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Forsythe
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 8:51 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe
<matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
Has anyone tries using capacitance senders designed for the RV8 in the
RV10 tanks? If so, was much modification required? Do they seem to
fit/work OK?
Thanks in advance,
Kent Forsythe
40338
Wings
Message 9
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| Subject: | RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Ooh, that sounds good. We're just measuring in the first bay. We
haven't actually tested them yet, so that will be interesting . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 12:45 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston"
<CJohnston@popsound.com>
Hey TDT -
I also went with skysports, but they haven't arrived yet. I have a
question for you - are you measuring in just one bay? I purchased a set
that are 6" bendable, 20" measuring, and I've prepared to have the probe
bend up, then go diagonally through the first 2 bays. Just wondering
what your thoughts are on that?
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 5:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
<Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Custom length capacitive sensors available from Skysports. We used 8
inch bendable, 8 inch measuring, bent in an 'S'. About $75 each.
See Skysports website - they have lots of info.
This is another good Wiki topic, since it gets asked about every 5
months or so . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Forsythe
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 8:51 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe
<matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
Has anyone tries using capacitance senders designed for the RV8 in the
RV10 tanks? If so, was much modification required? Do they seem to
fit/work OK?
Thanks in advance,
Kent Forsythe
40338
Wings
Message 10
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| Subject: | Capacitance Senders vs. Float Type |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Can those "in the know" discuss the pros and cons of these two
approaches to fuel measurement?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Wing Outboard Leading Edge
(Thinking about the tanks)
Message 11
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| Subject: | Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
This is from a post by Andrew on VAF.
Just ran across this tonight.
<http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb06-2-3.pdf>
Looks like I will have some rework.
--
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Message 12
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Wondering if anyone who has their W&B paperwork that came with the
kit...the W&B how-to that Van's supplied, could fax it to me.
I'm heading out on a flight to Van's today and can't find
mine and would like to have it to work through while I travel.
My fax-to-email is 715-858-1681
Would be really grateful.
Thanks,
Tim
do not archive
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10
Message 13
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
My experience with the FAA is that they have their own form and want the
calculations done on the "official FAA form". I know of one guy who
questioned the Minneapolis FAA, about that and said, that his feeling was
that the Designer knew more about how the format should be than the FAA.
Well the FAA decided that this guy was a trouble maker and delayed forever
his inspection. Just my experience your milage may vary.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 3:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: W&B Paperwork
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Wondering if anyone who has their W&B paperwork that came with the kit...the
W&B how-to that Van's supplied, could fax it to me. I'm heading out on a
flight to Van's today and can't find mine and would like to have it to work
through while I travel. My fax-to-email is 715-858-1681 Would be really
grateful. Thanks, Tim
do not archive
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer |
My heart goes out to all of you just about ready to fly!
Bruce
40018
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer |
My heart goes out to all of you just about ready to fly!
Bruce
40018
Message 16
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| Subject: | Cabin door opening |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Tim,
Thanks for both of your responses on this, they were very helpful, as
your website has been as well. I'm hoping the fit will be much better once
the door is trimmed more, maybe I'll just end up with some THICK fabric on
the door and justify it as soundproofing ;)
Marcus
40286
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Byron,
You should post a pic of your door and then one of the gutter
from the outside. With careful filing, you shouldn't have too
much roughness in that gap. There's not much left of the
outward lip of the channel when you get the door fit. Some
of the gap will depend on if you fabric cover your door, or
if you smooth and paint it plain. I can say though that if
you're careful, that gap can be minimal. I made sure mine was
able to have a piece of paper pulled through it easily, but
that's about the extent of much of the gap....maybe a bunch
more on the bottom by accident. I don't know if I'd bother
filling the gap with epoxy until you're ready to paint.
You might find when you're at the painting stage that you need
to adjust even more. Also, if you plan to fabric cover the
door, put some scraps around the lip and check the fit.
I ended up re-sanding the lip after I put fabric on because
I needed MORE gap. What may look huge now may be smaller
when you get further along.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
So, will these parts automatically be sent out or do we need to contact
Vans???
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Rosen" <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 2:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
> This is from a post by Andrew on VAF.
> Just ran across this tonight.
> <http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb06-2-3.pdf>
>
> Looks like I will have some rework.
>
> --
>
> Larry Rosen
> RV-10 #356
> http://lrosen.nerv10.com
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Cabin door opening |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1@charter.net>
Good thought Tim:
I had not considered the covering on the inside of the door. The sanding
is all done and the door fitted but I have not done any "clean up" to
the face or door itself. There appears to be anywhere from flush to 1/8"
gap between the door and frame - I really didn't do a good job with that
part.
I don't plan to do anything till I get the doors latched down. I plan to
get with Abby at Flightline to get the liner ordered and get a sample
for thickness checks - I'll definitely have to take that into account.
Thanks for the heads up!.
Byron #40253 Finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 8:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin door opening
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Byron,
You should post a pic of your door and then one of the gutter
from the outside. With careful filing, you shouldn't have too
much roughness in that gap. There's not much left of the
outward lip of the channel when you get the door fit. Some
of the gap will depend on if you fabric cover your door, or
if you smooth and paint it plain. I can say though that if
you're careful, that gap can be minimal. I made sure mine was
able to have a piece of paper pulled through it easily, but
that's about the extent of much of the gap....maybe a bunch
more on the bottom by accident. I don't know if I'd bother
filling the gap with epoxy until you're ready to paint.
You might find when you're at the painting stage that you need
to adjust even more. Also, if you plan to fabric cover the
door, put some scraps around the lip and check the fit.
I ended up re-sanding the lip after I put fabric on because
I needed MORE gap. What may look huge now may be smaller
when you get further along.
Good luck,
Tim
Byron Gillespie wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Byron Gillespie"
<bgill1@charter.net>
>
> Hi Marcus:
>
> I have been watching your question and haven't seen any response. I
have....................................................................
..................................
Message 19
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| Subject: | Capacitance Senders vs. Float Type |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
It has been some time since I relied upon burning fuel to fly, but isn't it
a better idea to rely on fuel burn measurements and time running rather than
be to hung up on what a gauge indicates.
I really don't know, but that is what I am thinking???????
John 409 tailcone
>From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Capacitance Senders vs. Float Type
>Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 10:38:28 -0800
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
>Can those "in the know" discuss the pros and cons of these two approaches
>to fuel measurement?
>
>Jeff Carpenter
>40304
>Wing Outboard Leading Edge
>(Thinking about the tanks)
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Senders vs. Float Type |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
John Gonzalez wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
> It has been some time since I relied upon burning fuel to fly, but isn't
> it a better idea to rely on fuel burn measurements and time running
> rather than be to hung up on what a gauge indicates.
Unless of course you have a fuel leak that you don't know about.
You may think you have 10 gals left when the tank leaks dry...
I'm likely to have both a fuel guage and fuel totalizer
in mine. It is really not that much extra considering.
-Dj
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Senders vs. Float Type |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
John, I think the 'consumption rate' is OK as a rough measurement
because it's rarely constant flight-to-flight. The one time you think
you're on schedule is when high consumption, vent leaks etc. bite you in
the butt. My favorite gas gauge is the site gauge ion my Grumman. What
you see is what you get if the system is working correctly. Second is a
capacitance gauge, and third is a resistance float gauge. Accuracy and
failure rates push my preferences. Having said that, a GOOD fuel
totalizer is on my list of equipment ..... but I have limited experience
with an old fuel mileage computer and can't really compare to modern units.
Linn
do not archive
John Gonzalez wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
> It has been some time since I relied upon burning fuel to fly, but
> isn't it a better idea to rely on fuel burn measurements and time
> running rather than be to hung up on what a gauge indicates.
>
> I really don't know, but that is what I am thinking???????
>
> John 409 tailcone
>
>
>> From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Capacitance Senders vs. Float Type
>> Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 10:38:28 -0800
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>>
>> Can those "in the know" discuss the pros and cons of these two
>> approaches to fuel measurement?
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>> Wing Outboard Leading Edge
>> (Thinking about the tanks)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer |
I e-mailed Vans about it and they are sending one out.
Andrew Rayhill
Finishing Wings (and re-visiting VS)
Phoenix
Message 23
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| Subject: | Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Why did I decide back then to place the shop heads on the rudder hinge
brackets and the factory heads on the spar where I couldn't see them???
Don't think I have drilled out a rivet yet, going in this direction.
John G.
>From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer
>Date: Wed, 08 Feb 2006 15:21:20 -0500
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
>This is from a post by Andrew on VAF.
>Just ran across this tonight.
><http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb06-2-3.pdf>
>
>Looks like I will have some rework.
>
>--
>
>Larry Rosen
>RV-10 #356
>http://lrosen.nerv10.com
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
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