Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:25 AM - Re: Re: defrosters (James Hein)
2. 06:03 AM - Re: Re: defrosters (Marcus Cooper)
3. 06:38 AM - Re: Defrosters (JSMcGrew@AOL.COM)
4. 07:26 AM - Re: Pumping Tires (Dave & Brenda Emond)
5. 07:36 AM - Re: Tim -Tunnel temps-an issue? (Deems Davis)
6. 09:34 AM - Re: Pumping Tires (Carl Froehlich)
7. 09:51 AM - Re: Engine combination (Sam Marlow)
8. 01:03 PM - DRDT-2 Dimpler - Follow Up (Tom Gesele)
9. 03:36 PM - Re: Forward Rivets on F-1040 and F-1041 (McGANN, Ron)
10. 03:53 PM - Fw: Rocket wheel pant mod. (JOHN STARN)
11. 04:11 PM - Feedback/opinion on half-way point. (Deems Davis)
12. 04:56 PM - Re: Tim -Tunnel temps-an issue? (Tim Olson)
13. 04:56 PM - Re: Engine combination (Tim Olson)
14. 05:03 PM - Re: Feedback/opinion on half-way point. (Tim Olson)
15. 05:07 PM - Re: Re: Defrosters (Tim Olson)
16. 05:21 PM - Re: Forward Rivets on F-1040 and F-1041 (Rick)
17. 05:43 PM - Re: Forward Rivets on F-1040 and F-1041 (McGANN, Ron)
18. 05:53 PM - Re: Feedback/opinion on half-way point. (Michael Schipper)
19. 05:58 PM - Re: Pumping Tires (linn Walters)
20. 06:25 PM - Re: Forward Rivets on F-1040 and F-1041 (Rick)
21. 09:56 PM - Re: Pumping Tires (Tim Lewis)
22. 10:03 PM - Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang? (Sean Stephens)
Message 1
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--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
I use the KISS principle; Just move air from the bottom of the
glareshield to the top by means of a fan :)
For the heat in the tunnel, has anyone thought of just using a small
hole screened over (to keep bugs out) at the front and aft ends of the
tunnel? K.I.S.S
-Jim 40384
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> Jim,
>
> Sounds like reasonable idea to include a fan in the tunnel how do
> you plan to duct the source and exit air?
>
> Marcus
>
> 40286
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *JSMcGrew@aol.com
> *Sent:* Saturday, February 18, 2006 11:49 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Re: defrosters
>
> I asked Van's about a defrost system. Ken Scott told me that they have
> computer fans mounted under the glareshield in the prototypes. I plan
> on doing the same. I'm going to try putting one fan in the tunnel as
> well to keep the temperature down in there.
>
> Jim McGrew
>
> 40134
>
Message 2
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>>> For the heat in the tunnel, has anyone thought of just using a small
hole screened over (to keep bugs out) at the front and aft ends of the
tunnel? K.I.S.S
I'm all about the KISS principle, but I think just creating vents at the
front and back of the tunnel might create problems. There were similar
issues with my first airplane, a Q2, that had internal airflow problems
since the fuselage was sealed so well and everyone was trying to figure the
best place to put an air exit vent. My concern would be not knowing for
sure which side is going to get positive pressure, if so what kind of air
are you getting. Avoiding any sort of exhaust or heat from the engine
compartment would be important. Seems like Vic Syracuse' solution by
ducting some air to the area right in front of the tunnel forward of the
firewall seems to be working based on a recent message. Just philosophizing
since I haven't even hung my engine yet.
Marcus
-Jim 40384
Message 3
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Actually, I'm working on this today. I am going to mount the computer fan in
the tunnel cover forward of the fuel selector valve (directly over the boost
pump and filter). It will be offset to the left to allow the rear cabin heat
scat tube to go by. The fan will blow cool air down into the tunnel and
should exit on its own to the cabin: there are enough openings at the front of
the
tunnel lid and out underneath the front seats to allow for adequate flow. I
am going to try this to, hopefully, avoid taking out all the fuel lines to
install insulation on the tunnel floor.
The defrost fan will be under the glareshield aft of the subpanel and left
of the center rib. It will probably get enough heat from the radio stack and
maybe even draw some air up from the heat vents that are directly underneath.
There simply isn't enough room under my panel to easily run a duct up.
Jim McGrew
40134
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Why not just duct it up to the defrost exit? Accomplish two things with
one fan!
-Sean #40303
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> Jim,
>
> Sounds like reasonable idea to include a fan in the tunnel how do
> you plan to duct the source and exit air?
>
> Marcus
>
> 40286
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Pumping Tires |
To those builders that are past the wheel fairing stage.
How easy is it to get access to the valve, and pump tires??
Dave Emond
# 40159
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Tim -Tunnel temps-an issue? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Tim, this issue has been on the minds of several of us since it was 1st
reported. What is your experience now that you are flying?
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 6
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On my RV-8A I installed the spring loaded air valve door on the wheel pants
(available at ACS).
Regardless of having this door or not, you need some sort of valve
extensions to pump up the tires. I bought 4 standard metal tire valve
extensions from Wal-Mart, and used lock tight to screw them together. Don't
screw them together too tight or you will be leaking air when attached to
the tire.
I painted a small white line on the tire sidewall such that when the white
line pointed to the ground, the tire valve stem is lined up with the access
door. Just screw in the now long valve extender through the door into the
tire valve stem and you have it.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (250 hrs)
RV-10 (tail)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave & Brenda
Emond
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 10:24 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pumping Tires
To those builders that are past the wheel fairing stage.
How easy is it to get access to the valve, and pump tires??
Dave Emond
# 40159
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Engine combination |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
Do you have electronic ignition!
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I got 25 because of the IO-540/Hartzell Combo. That was one of the
> first questions the DAR asked, and all I had to do was tell
> him what I had and he automatically said "That will be good,
> you'll only have a 25 hour flyoff."
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>
>> Fellows:
>>
>>
>>
>> What have the flyers been getting for Phase I fly-off time? 40 or
>> 25 hours? Does the IO-540 with Hartzell qualify as an approved
>> combination, or is it not yet (or ever) certified?
>>
>>
>>
>> TDT
>> 40025
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | DRDT-2 Dimpler - Follow Up |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tom Gesele <tgesele@optonline.net>
Listers,
I'd like to follow up on my post yesterday regarding the DRDT-2 and the
issue I had with needing to "double pump" to get good dimples in thicker
skins.
Based on some suggestions from Paul at ExperimentalAero, I went back and
tried dimpling 040 scraps with both 1/8" and 3/32" tank dies and each one
produced a perfect dimple first shot - no double pumping required, tried the
regular 3/32" dies and same problem - needed two shots to get the dimple
right.
I initially assumed that there was something wrong with the dimple dies
but that didn't seem right so I went back down to the shop today to figure
out what was going on. I won't waste space detailing everything I did, but
it turned out that the body of the 3/32" dimple dies had a very slight
difference in size. I had initially set up the dimpler using the tank dies
(which I use to dimple all the underlying ribs, spars, etc) and never
re-adjusted it for the other dies. I fabricated a 020 spacer that now sits
on the 3/32" die, tried it out and the results are perfect dimples across
the board - no double pumping required.
I'd like to repeat how impressed I am with the DRDT-2 and now with Paul's
support. For me, this was a complete non-issue but brought an immediate
offer from Paul to assist in any way he could to help fix the "problem".
- Tom Gesele #473
Do Not Archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Forward Rivets on F-1040 and F-1041 |
Further to Rene's post below, can anyone advise how much material needs to be removed
from the F-1001M angle so that these rivets can be set? A photo showing
the modified angle would be really useful.
Rick and Niko, I think we are at about the same build point. If you have finished
riveting the 1040s, how much of this angle did you remove?
thanks in advance,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rene
Sent: Monday, 5 December 2005 1:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Forward Rivets on F-1040 and F-1041
Searched archives but could not find anything. For those who have gotten
further along in your fuselage build. How did you rivet the forward most
rivets in the F-1040 and F-1041. The angles on the bulkhead get in the way
of placing and driving the rivets. I have sent an e-mail to vans asking if
it is appropriate to remove some of the material from the angles.
I have attached a picture.
Rene'
801-721-6080
Message 10
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| Subject: | Fw: Rocket wheel pant mod. |
Here's what we did with HRII N561FS. as you can see this was before paint
and final finish work. Cut out a "donut" of .040 scrap to installed inside
of wheel pant fiberglass opening to hold the the plug note the four flush
"soft" rivets. Have done 4G's+, 250Kts & hundreds of landings...have yet to
lose a plug. KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid), looks good and it works
everywhere & everytime. KABONG 8*) Do Not Archive (It's in there)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 3:56 PM
Subject: Rocket wheel pant mod.
> Left Wheel Pant Overview: This shows the access cover in place and the
> yellow mark on the tire inline with the wheel pant seam. This means that
> the
> tire/tube valve stem is inlined with the hole when the cover is removed.
>
> Required tools: Left to right--- Air pressure guage, yellow paint pen,
> HE-391 valve extention (Napa Auto Parts), Craftsman magnetic driver with
> 1/4" scoket adapter, access cover w/ prong side up. Note 1/4" X 10mm
> socket is out of photo edge.
>
> Right wheel pant: Cover removed, valve stem just barely visable, yellow
> alignment mark on tire inline with wheel pant seam.
>
> Tools and Stem Cap: Almost same as photo #2 but with the 10mm socket
> visable, the valve stem cap (metal 10mm chrome six point) and the finish
> side up of the cover.
>
> Valve Stem Exposed: Wheel slightly rotated to show valve stem line up
> (flash
> slightly off center), the cover support ring and attachment points (4),
> side
> view of access cover.
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Feedback/opinion on half-way point. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I'm curious as to the opinion/feedback of others further along, or
nearing completion who also went the slo-built route, as to what your
opinion is on where or when you are 1/2 or 50% complete with your
project. (I know the old saying 50% complete 90% to go), But there must
be enough people that are complete or close to it to make some rough
estimate about where in the building process is the half-way point.
I'm trying to gauge when to commit funds to some of the major financial
outlay's (Engine & Panel) while also trying to manage cash flows/
returns. I've been working on my project steadily for 8 months now, I'm
finishing up Section 26 on the Fuse, I know that I've got more ahead of
me than is behind me, but I'd like to get an idea of how much, assuming
I continue at the same rate/pace. Your estimates of where the 1/2 way
point is should help me in that decision.
(I know that there are a LOT of variables, e.g. paint, panel, interior,
etc. I'm not looking for a precise estimate just you humble opinion
based upon your experience being further down the road than I,
THANKS
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Tim -Tunnel temps-an issue? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I'm curious too. Let me get back to you on that. Today when I started
flying it was only 5-10F outside, so nothing was what I'd consider
hot. ;) Once I get more days that are 30F+ outside, I'll take my shoes
off and touch my toes to the tunnel.
Also, as a side note, if you look at some of my more recent FWF photos,
I have a 1.5" scat duct from the upper right side rear baffle that
goes down and turns parallel with the firewall, where it's clamped,
and it blows directly on the heater box valves. I also have 1/8"
silicone baffle gasket material as a standoff for those valves.
So, I don't expect mine to be hot....I already took steps to
prevent it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Deems Davis wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
>
> Tim, this issue has been on the minds of several of us since it was 1st
> reported. What is your experience now that you are flying?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Fuse
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Engine combination |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
1 mag, one lightspeed Plasma III. Runs BEAUTIFULLY.
Tim
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Sam Marlow wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
>
> Do you have electronic ignition!
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> I got 25 because of the IO-540/Hartzell Combo. That was one of the
>> first questions the DAR asked, and all I had to do was tell
>> him what I had and he automatically said "That will be good,
>> you'll only have a 25 hour flyoff."
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>>
>>> Fellows:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> What have the flyers been getting for Phase I fly-off time? 40 or
>>> 25 hours? Does the IO-540 with Hartzell qualify as an approved
>>> combination, or is it not yet (or ever) certified?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> TDT
>>> 40025
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Feedback/opinion on half-way point. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I put in over 1100 of 1700 hours this year. With a QB fuse, and
painting before flying, I figure the 1/2 way point based on my 1700
hours is about the time you're doing your windshield, started
on your panel, and have the doors attached. When you're doing
your landing gear and just about to hang the engine. That's
about the 1/2 way point for me if you go by my hours. In the overall
timespan of my project though, (not including wheel fairings), that's
about 3/4 or more of the way.
I gave another builder advice on doing the wheel pants last night....
do them right after you install your gear. The only reason why
is this.....now that I'm flying, I find it VERY hard to be motivated
to work on the fairings because they're not necessary and they
sure look like they'll be just miserably tedious. I think I'd
rather build a set of doors.
Tim
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Deems Davis wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> I'm curious as to the opinion/feedback of others further along, or
> nearing completion who also went the slo-built route, as to what your
> opinion is on where or when you are 1/2 or 50% complete with your
> project. (I know the old saying 50% complete 90% to go), But there must
> be enough people that are complete or close to it to make some rough
> estimate about where in the building process is the half-way point.
> I'm trying to gauge when to commit funds to some of the major financial
> outlay's (Engine & Panel) while also trying to manage cash flows/
> returns. I've been working on my project steadily for 8 months now, I'm
> finishing up Section 26 on the Fuse, I know that I've got more ahead of
> me than is behind me, but I'd like to get an idea of how much, assuming
> I continue at the same rate/pace. Your estimates of where the 1/2 way
> point is should help me in that decision.
>
> (I know that there are a LOT of variables, e.g. paint, panel, interior,
> etc. I'm not looking for a precise estimate just you humble opinion
> based upon your experience being further down the road than I,
>
> THANKS
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Fuse
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I just scoped out my panel today to see where I was going to mount my
fan too. I think I'll only put in one, and put it in the same spot
mentioned....aft of the subpanel, just Left of the centerpost.
There is about 1" available in front of the subpanel, but I don't
think it's worth driling in up there.
As a side note on temps.... You may have seen my post that today's
flying was in 10F type weather. I had the heat on full and it
was very comfortable in the cabin. My GRT EIS has an internal temp
display and it was pretty interesting to see that the temp went
from about 90F to 110F over time....and that's with the cold
temps. I don't know if that's because it was just getting front
heat rising behind the panel, or if in the summer it'll be real
hot there too. What it looks like though, is that in the winter
when it's cold, you probably don't need to duct heat to the
windshield, because with front heat on it should rise and the
fans would take care of the blowing. In the summer, I think
there's the chance that I'll be happy I installed an avionics
fan to keep things cool.
It sure was good to see the heater works well. My old plane would
have been pretty chilly in those temps.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
JSMcGrew@aol.com wrote:
> Actually, I'm working on this today. I am going to mount the computer
> fan in the tunnel cover forward of the fuel selector valve (directly
> over the boost pump and filter). It will be offset to the left to allow
> the rear cabin heat scat tube to go by. The fan will blow cool air down
> into the tunnel and should exit on its own to the cabin: there are
> enough openings at the front of the tunnel lid and out underneath the
> front seats to allow for adequate flow. I am going to try this to,
> hopefully, avoid taking out all the fuel lines to install insulation on
> the tunnel floor.
>
> The defrost fan will be under the glareshield aft of the subpanel and
> left of the center rib. It will probably get enough heat from the radio
> stack and maybe even draw some air up from the heat vents that are
> directly underneath. There simply isn't enough room under my panel to
> easily run a duct up.
>
> Jim McGrew
> 40134
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Why not just duct it up to the defrost exit? Accomplish two things with
> one fan!
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> Marcus Cooper wrote:
> >
> > Jim,
> >
> > Sounds like reasonable idea to include a fan in the tunnel how do
> > you plan to duct the source and exit air?
> >
> > Marcus
> >
> > 40286
> >
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Forward Rivets on F-1040 and F-1041 |
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Message 17
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| Subject: | Forward Rivets on F-1040 and F-1041 |
Thanks Rick, sounds identical to what I had planned. I did notice that the plans
called out countersinking the longerons for the head of a rivet, rather than
a dimple. Countersunk for a dimple anyway - a pretty obvious error in the plans.
Overall, the fuse plans are pretty average compared to the emp and wings.
With drilling the WD-1002/3 weldments, forming the skins, bending the longerons,
dimpling the installed seat ribs and now those forward rivets, Section
29 has been a mongrel for me. I'll be glad when I finish this bit!
cheers,
Ron
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Monday, 20 February 2006 11:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Forward Rivets on F-1040 and F-1041
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
Ron,
I removed enough to be able to drill and rivet the the forward holes. I came up
about an 1" and cut in making a triangle cut leaving about an 1/8" at the bottom
near the hole. I checked with my fellow Vegas builder who is about two weeks
ahead and he said it was OK to do this and he had saved it from the archives
but alas I never seem to save the right ones. My cuts look just like a 60/30
triangle and I removed the material a little at a time until I could get the
hole drilled, I then had to take off a tad more to get the rivet set on the rivet.
I used a mini scotch wheel to polish it up when done.
One other thing, the plans tell you to countersink the various parts for "the head
of a -3 rivet" Well.....my first impression was BS...you need to CS for a
-3 dimple in the side skins..Always trust your first response. I had to drill
out about 5 rivets to remove the left 1070 skin when I found the dimples sitting
high on the longeron. I was watching for it so I only had a few rivets set.
Further inspection showed all the clecoed holes also sitting high. Darn, I knew
that instruction was wrong but I went with it anyway. Off come the skins and
re-countersink all the holes for the dimple, not the rivet. I hope it saves
you some time not having to take your skins off again to countersink. My luck
some already mentioned this and I missed it just like the dimples in the seat
ribs.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Feedback/opinion on half-way point. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Schipper <mike@learningplanet.com>
You're halfway done when you start thinking "Hey, I'm almost done!" :-)
Seriously, on my -9A slow build, I think the halfway point was when I
had completed the airframe and was beginning the finishing kit.
Mike Schipper
-9A N63MS - Flying
www.my9a.com
On Feb 19, 2006, at 6:10 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> I'm curious as to the opinion/feedback of others further along, or
> nearing completion who also went the slo-built route, as to what
> your opinion is on where or when you are 1/2 or 50% complete with
> your project. (I know the old saying 50% complete 90% to go), But
> there must be enough people that are complete or close to it to
> make some rough estimate about where in the building process is the
> half-way point.
> I'm trying to gauge when to commit funds to some of the major
> financial outlay's (Engine & Panel) while also trying to manage
> cash flows/ returns. I've been working on my project steadily for 8
> months now, I'm finishing up Section 26 on the Fuse, I know that
> I've got more ahead of me than is behind me, but I'd like to get an
> idea of how much, assuming I continue at the same rate/pace. Your
> estimates of where the 1/2 way point is should help me in that
> decision.
>
> (I know that there are a LOT of variables, e.g. paint, panel,
> interior, etc. I'm not looking for a precise estimate just you
> humble opinion based upon your experience being further down the
> road than I,
>
> THANKS
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Fuse
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Pumping Tires |
Dave & Brenda Emond wrote:
> To those builders that are past the wheel fairing stage.
>
> How easy is it to get access to the valve, and pump tires??
>
> Dave Emond
> # 40159
If you have the 90 degree tire stem .... that sticks out parallel to the
axle ...... all you have to do is get an extender at any good truck tire
store. Drill a hole in the side of the wheel pant so you can thread the
extender on the tire stem. Paint a white (or your favorite color)
stripe vertically on the side of the tire so you can roll the airplane
until the stripe is vertical ..... and the extender will screw right on.
The only downside is that the valve stem won't have a cover on it to
keep dirt out.
Linn
Message 20
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| Subject: | Forward Rivets on F-1040 and F-1041 |
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Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Pumping Tires |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
The valve stems on my RV-10 mains point toward the axle nut, not
parallel to the axle. Poor geometry for servicing. Are other builders
seeing the same thing? Does anybody have insight into a tube part
number where the valve stem is parallel to the axle, like it is with the
RV-6?
Thanks,
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 830 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
linn Walters wrote:
> Dave & Brenda Emond wrote:
>
>> To those builders that are past the wheel fairing stage.
>>
>> How easy is it to get access to the valve, and pump tires??
>>
>> Dave Emond
>> # 40159
>
> If you have the 90 degree tire stem .... that sticks out parallel to the
> axle ...... all you have to do is get an extender at any good truck tire
> store. Drill a hole in the side of the wheel pant so you can thread the
> extender on the tire stem. Paint a white (or your favorite color)
> stripe vertically on the side of the tire so you can roll the airplane
> until the stripe is vertical ..... and the extender will screw right on.
>
> The only downside is that the valve stem won't have a cover on it to
> keep dirt out.
> Linn
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I temporarily attached the flaps this weekend to set neutral for aileron
actuation. I noticed when bottoming out the flaps against the rear spar
as instructed, that the flaps (both wings) rub on the overhang of the
top skins. They barely rub, but rub none the less. Is this normal? I
would hope not, as I can imagine that nice new paint would be rubbing
off every time flaps are used.
If this is not desired/normal, any suggestions?
Thanks,
-Sean #40303 (about to start bottom skins)
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