Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:26 AM - Re: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang? (Tim Olson)
2. 05:04 AM - Re: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang? (RAS)
3. 06:09 AM - Re: Feedback/opinion on half-way point. (Scott Schmidt)
4. 06:27 AM - Re: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang? (Richard Sipp)
5. 06:35 AM - Re: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang? (Sean Stephens)
6. 07:56 AM - Antenna options. (John Gonzalez)
7. 08:23 AM - Small clearance between nose wheel valve stem and nose wheel fork. (Tim Lewis)
8. 08:30 AM - Re: Antenna options./Tailcone Riveting (James Hein)
9. 08:51 AM - Re: Antenna options./Tailcone Riveting (John Gonzalez)
10. 09:00 AM - Re: Antenna options./Tailcone Riveting (James Hein)
11. 09:57 AM - Re: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang? (Jerry Grimmonpre)
12. 10:17 AM - Re: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang? (Tim Olson)
13. 10:34 AM - Re: Antenna options./Tailcone Riveting (Deems Davis)
14. 01:09 PM - Re: Pumping Tires (Dave & Brenda Emond)
15. 03:04 PM - Static Dischargers (Patrick Pulis)
16. 03:33 PM - Re: Small clearance between nose wheel valve stem and nose wheel fork. (Mike Kraus)
17. 03:35 PM - Re: Static Dischargers ()
18. 04:03 PM - Re: Static Dischargers (John W. Cox)
19. 05:00 PM - Re: Small clearance between nose wheel valve stem and nose wheel fork. (Tim Olson)
20. 05:22 PM - Useable Fuel verification on the RV-10 (Tim Olson)
21. 05:37 PM - Re: Feedback/opinion on half-way point. (Jesse Saint)
22. 05:43 PM - Re: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang? (Jesse Saint)
23. 05:45 PM - Re: Antenna options. (Jesse Saint)
24. 05:49 PM - Re: Useable Fuel verification on the RV-10 (Jesse Saint)
25. 06:09 PM - Re: Useable Fuel verification on the RV-10 (Tim Olson)
26. 06:58 PM - Re: Static Dischargers (Bill and Tami Britton)
27. 07:29 PM - Useable Fuel verification on the RV-10 (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
28. 07:39 PM - Apollo Encoder (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
It's probably nice to have a tight gap there. What I did was to buy
some UHMW tape, and I applied tape to the underside of the trailing
edge of the wing skins all the way along. That should help keep the
flaps from getting as scratches, which is common to see.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Sean Stephens wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> I temporarily attached the flaps this weekend to set neutral for aileron
> actuation. I noticed when bottoming out the flaps against the rear spar
> as instructed, that the flaps (both wings) rub on the overhang of the
> top skins. They barely rub, but rub none the less. Is this normal? I
> would hope not, as I can imagine that nice new paint would be rubbing
> off every time flaps are used.
>
> If this is not desired/normal, any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Sean #40303 (about to start bottom skins)
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
hi all,
Teflon paint is what is used for the same purpose on airliners. It's not
cheap, but does a wonderful job. The same paint is also useful in any other
area's that frequently get rubbed. It is however not suitable for walkways
as it has a very slippery surface. Among aother's AKZO Aerospace makes it.
There's also a Boeing spec for this stuff.
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 12:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> It's probably nice to have a tight gap there. What I did was to buy
> some UHMW tape, and I applied tape to the underside of the trailing
> edge of the wing skins all the way along. That should help keep the
> flaps from getting as scratches, which is common to see.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Sean Stephens wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>>
>> I temporarily attached the flaps this weekend to set neutral for aileron
>> actuation. I noticed when bottoming out the flaps against the rear spar
>> as instructed, that the flaps (both wings) rub on the overhang of the top
>> skins. They barely rub, but rub none the less. Is this normal? I would
>> hope not, as I can imagine that nice new paint would be rubbing off every
>> time flaps are used.
>>
>> If this is not desired/normal, any suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> -Sean #40303 (about to start bottom skins)
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Feedback/opinion on half-way point. |
I agree with Tim and Mike. I built a slow-build and should be flying in May if
all the planets align. I feel half way is about the time you are starting on
the finishing kit. I started the finishing kit and firewall forward kit about
the same time. That is the time when you start spending some bucks with the
purchase of the engine, prop, fuel pump / filter, ect....
-Scott Schmidt
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Michael Schipper
Sent: Sun 19/02/2006 18:52
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Feedback/opinion on half-way point.
--> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Schipper <mike@learningplanet.com>
You're halfway done when you start thinking "Hey, I'm almost done!" :-)
Seriously, on my -9A slow build, I think the halfway point was when I
had completed the airframe and was beginning the finishing kit.
Mike Schipper
-9A N63MS - Flying
www.my9a.com
On Feb 19, 2006, at 6:10 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> I'm curious as to the opinion/feedback of others further along, or
> nearing completion who also went the slo-built route, as to what
> your opinion is on where or when you are 1/2 or 50% complete with
> your project. (I know the old saying 50% complete 90% to go), But
> there must be enough people that are complete or close to it to
> make some rough estimate about where in the building process is the
> half-way point.
> I'm trying to gauge when to commit funds to some of the major
> financial outlay's (Engine & Panel) while also trying to manage
> cash flows/ returns. I've been working on my project steadily for 8
> months now, I'm finishing up Section 26 on the Fuse, I know that
> I've got more ahead of me than is behind me, but I'd like to get an
> idea of how much, assuming I continue at the same rate/pace. Your
> estimates of where the 1/2 way point is should help me in that
> decision.
>
> (I know that there are a LOT of variables, e.g. paint, panel,
> interior, etc. I'm not looking for a precise estimate just you
> humble opinion based upon your experience being further down the
> road than I,
>
> THANKS
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Fuse
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
Hi Sean,
I believe this is normal in all of the RV models, designed to be that way
probably for better aerodynamics.
There have been several approaches to "wear" strips or other protection,
tapes of various types as Tim mentioned applied in strips or larger areas.
On my 4 the painter sprayed a teflon impregnated paint on the area of the
flap that contacts the skin, it has held up well for years. Others have
used various types on stick on materials like the firewall heat shield
aluminum.
Dick Sipp
RV4 N250DS RV10 40065
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy@cox.net>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 1:02 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> I temporarily attached the flaps this weekend to set neutral for aileron
> actuation. I noticed when bottoming out the flaps against the rear spar
> as instructed, that the flaps (both wings) rub on the overhang of the top
> skins. They barely rub, but rub none the less. Is this normal? I would
> hope not, as I can imagine that nice new paint would be rubbing off every
> time flaps are used.
>
> If this is not desired/normal, any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Sean #40303 (about to start bottom skins)
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Thanks for all the replies.
-Sean
do not archive
Richard Sipp wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
>
> Hi Sean,
>
> I believe this is normal in all of the RV models, designed to be that
> way probably for better aerodynamics.
>
> There have been several approaches to "wear" strips or other
> protection, tapes of various types as Tim mentioned applied in strips
> or larger areas. On my 4 the painter sprayed a teflon impregnated
> paint on the area of the flap that contacts the skin, it has held up
> well for years. Others have used various types on stick on materials
> like the firewall heat shield aluminum.
>
> Dick Sipp
> RV4 N250DS RV10 40065
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy@cox.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 1:02 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang?
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>>
>> I temporarily attached the flaps this weekend to set neutral for
>> aileron actuation. I noticed when bottoming out the flaps against
>> the rear spar as instructed, that the flaps (both wings) rub on the
>> overhang of the top skins. They barely rub, but rub none the less.
>> Is this normal? I would hope not, as I can imagine that nice new
>> paint would be rubbing off every time flaps are used.
>>
>> If this is not desired/normal, any suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> -Sean #40303 (about to start bottom skins)
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Antenna options. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Just curious as to whether anyone has tried to use one of those AAE dipole
antennas in their fiberglass wing tips. Using these would make the plane
more aerodynamically sound. Both comm, Nav and Transponder antennas are
available.
On another note, I will hopefully start riveting the tailcone next weekend.
Are there any suggestions on riveting those curved tailcone, fuselage
corners as this will be the first time with a part like this....all so
highly visible.
JOhn G.
Do Not Archive(DNA)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Small clearance between nose wheel valve stem and nose wheel |
fork.
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
RV-10 list,
On my RV-10 nose wheel I'm finding that the valve stem (with the valve
stem cover off) misses the nose wheel fork by only 1/8". If the valve
stem cover is on, the valve stem cover hits the nose wheel fork when the
wheel is rotated. Is this what others are seeing?
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 830 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna options./Tailcone Riveting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
John,
On riveting the tailcone, it helps if you have a partner...
I had no help, so here's how I did it:
Put the Clecos in from the INSIDE of the tailcone, then you will
find your back riveting plate can slide in underneath the skin between
the clecos. Then just start Back riveting! Of course, when you get to
the aft top skin, you will need a partner, but other than that back
rivet away!
I even back riveted the curved sections; Get a few pillows or
foam blocks to hold the tailcone in position to back rivet the one you
need to rivet, then adjust positions, and repeat.... (Did I mention it
totally sucks doing it all alone?)
Enjoy it! This is the first piece that is big enough to show friends
what size your plane is! (All my friends thought the Horizontal
Stabilizer was the main wing!!!)
-Jim 40384 (SafeAir/Hotel Whiskey tip tanks are due to arrive
Wednesday!)
John Gonzalez wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
> Just curious as to whether anyone has tried to use one of those AAE
> dipole antennas in their fiberglass wing tips. Using these would make
> the plane more aerodynamically sound. Both comm, Nav and Transponder
> antennas are available.
>
> On another note, I will hopefully start riveting the tailcone next
> weekend. Are there any suggestions on riveting those curved tailcone,
> fuselage corners as this will be the first time with a part like
> this....all so highly visible.
>
> JOhn G.
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna options./Tailcone Riveting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Thanks,
I hadn't read far enough ahead to realize there was that much back riveting.
I am interested in learning about your wing tip tanks after you install
them.
John G.
DNA
>From: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Antenna options./Tailcone Riveting
>Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 11:28:22 -0500
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>
>John,
> On riveting the tailcone, it helps if you have a partner...
>
> I had no help, so here's how I did it:
> Put the Clecos in from the INSIDE of the tailcone, then you will
>find your back riveting plate can slide in underneath the skin between the
>clecos. Then just start Back riveting! Of course, when you get to the aft
>top skin, you will need a partner, but other than that back rivet away!
>
> I even back riveted the curved sections; Get a few pillows or foam
>blocks to hold the tailcone in position to back rivet the one you need to
>rivet, then adjust positions, and repeat.... (Did I mention it totally
>sucks doing it all alone?)
>
> Enjoy it! This is the first piece that is big enough to show friends
>what size your plane is! (All my friends thought the Horizontal Stabilizer
>was the main wing!!!)
>
> -Jim 40384 (SafeAir/Hotel Whiskey tip tanks are due to arrive
>Wednesday!)
>John Gonzalez wrote:
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>>
>>Just curious as to whether anyone has tried to use one of those AAE dipole
>>antennas in their fiberglass wing tips. Using these would make the plane
>>more aerodynamically sound. Both comm, Nav and Transponder antennas are
>>available.
>>
>>On another note, I will hopefully start riveting the tailcone next
>>weekend. Are there any suggestions on riveting those curved tailcone,
>>fuselage corners as this will be the first time with a part like
>>this....all so highly visible.
>>
>>JOhn G.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna options./Tailcone Riveting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
John,
The plans make no mention on how to rivet the tailcone; It is up to
you. Since I had no help, I had to figure out how I would do it, so I
spent many hours clecoing, moving clecos, removing clecos, putting them
from inside, etc. until I figured out how I could do it.
Enjoy!
-Jim
do not archive
John Gonzalez wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
> Thanks,
>
> I hadn't read far enough ahead to realize there was that much back
> riveting.
>
> I am interested in learning about your wing tip tanks after you
> install them.
>
> John G.
>
> DNA
>
>
>> From: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Antenna options./Tailcone Riveting
>> Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 11:28:22 -0500
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>>
>> John,
>> On riveting the tailcone, it helps if you have a partner...
>>
>> I had no help, so here's how I did it:
>> Put the Clecos in from the INSIDE of the tailcone, then you
>> will find your back riveting plate can slide in underneath the skin
>> between the clecos. Then just start Back riveting! Of course, when
>> you get to the aft top skin, you will need a partner, but other than
>> that back rivet away!
>>
>> I even back riveted the curved sections; Get a few pillows or
>> foam blocks to hold the tailcone in position to back rivet the one
>> you need to rivet, then adjust positions, and repeat.... (Did I
>> mention it totally sucks doing it all alone?)
>>
>> Enjoy it! This is the first piece that is big enough to show
>> friends what size your plane is! (All my friends thought the
>> Horizontal Stabilizer was the main wing!!!)
>>
>> -Jim 40384 (SafeAir/Hotel Whiskey tip tanks are due to arrive
>> Wednesday!)
>> John Gonzalez wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez"
>>> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>>>
>>> Just curious as to whether anyone has tried to use one of those AAE
>>> dipole antennas in their fiberglass wing tips. Using these would
>>> make the plane more aerodynamically sound. Both comm, Nav and
>>> Transponder antennas are available.
>>>
>>> On another note, I will hopefully start riveting the tailcone next
>>> weekend. Are there any suggestions on riveting those curved
>>> tailcone, fuselage corners as this will be the first time with a
>>> part like this....all so highly visible.
>>>
>>> JOhn G.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net>
Do Not Archive
Tim ...
What is this UHMW tape you refer to and where to get it?
Thanks,
Jerry Grimmonpre'
RV8A
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> It's probably nice to have a tight gap there. What I did was to buy
> some UHMW tape, and I applied tape to the underside of the trailing
> edge of the wing skins all the way along. That should help keep the
> flaps from getting as scratches, which is common to see.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Check this link:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1140459300-156-660&browse=misc&product=uhmwtape
Description
This UHMW tape replaces the stainless steel tape previously used between
the flap and the top wing skin to protect against scratches in the paint
and even corrosion if the scrapes are neglected. Use this tape to
protect leading edge of flap, canopy rails, etc., from scuffing. 3" X
10', or the 3" X 14' adhesive strip is enough to cover both flaps,
depending on model.
CLEAR UHMW TAPE 4/6/7/8
Part Number = TAPE UHMW 3"X10'
Price = $11.00
CLEAR UHMW TAPE 9/9A
Part Number = TAPE UHMW 3"X14'
Price = $14.50
Jerry Grimmonpre wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net>
>
> Do Not Archive Tim ...
> What is this UHMW tape you refer to and where to get it?
> Thanks,
> Jerry Grimmonpre'
> RV8A
>
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> It's probably nice to have a tight gap there. What I did was to buy
>> some UHMW tape, and I applied tape to the underside of the trailing
>> edge of the wing skins all the way along. That should help keep the
>> flaps from getting as scratches, which is common to see.
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna options./Tailcone Riveting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I also riveted my tailcone as Jim suggested. One thing that made a BIG
difference was that I got a BIG back rivet plate (16"x20"), I just went
down to the scrap metal dealer and found a piece of 5/16" (1/4"?). It
made it a lot easier as I was able to load more rivets at one time, and
also minimized the risk of getting off the plate.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
James Hein wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>
> John,
> On riveting the tailcone, it helps if you have a partner...
>
> I had no help, so here's how I did it:
> Put the Clecos in from the INSIDE of the tailcone, then you will
> find your back riveting plate can slide in underneath the skin between
> the clecos. Then just start Back riveting! Of course, when you get to
> the aft top skin, you will need a partner, but other than that back
> rivet away!
>
> I even back riveted the curved sections; Get a few pillows or
> foam blocks to hold the tailcone in position to back rivet the one you
> need to rivet, then adjust positions, and repeat.... (Did I mention it
> totally sucks doing it all alone?)
>
> Enjoy it! This is the first piece that is big enough to show
> friends what size your plane is! (All my friends thought the
> Horizontal Stabilizer was the main wing!!!)
>
> -Jim 40384 (SafeAir/Hotel Whiskey tip tanks are due to arrive
> Wednesday!)
> John Gonzalez wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez"
>> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>>
>> Just curious as to whether anyone has tried to use one of those AAE
>> dipole antennas in their fiberglass wing tips. Using these would
>> make the plane more aerodynamically sound. Both comm, Nav and
>> Transponder antennas are available.
>>
>> On another note, I will hopefully start riveting the tailcone next
>> weekend. Are there any suggestions on riveting those curved
>> tailcone, fuselage corners as this will be the first time with a part
>> like this....all so highly visible.
>>
>> JOhn G.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Pumping Tires |
Thanks for the replies.
Dave Emond
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Carl Froehlich
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 7:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Pumping Tires
On my RV-8A I installed the spring loaded air valve door on the wheel pants (available
at ACS).
Regardless of having this door or not, you need some sort of valve extensions
to pump up the tires. I bought 4 standard metal tire valve extensions from Wal-Mart,
and used lock tight to screw them together. Don't screw them together
too tight or you will be leaking air when attached to the tire.
I painted a small white line on the tire sidewall such that when the white line
pointed to the ground, the tire valve stem is lined up with the access door.
Just screw in the now long valve extender through the door into the tire valve
stem and you have it.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (250 hrs)
RV-10 (tail)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave & Brenda Emond
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 10:24 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pumping Tires
To those builders that are past the wheel fairing stage.
How easy is it to get access to the valve, and pump tires??
Dave Emond
# 40159
Message 15
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| Subject: | Static Dischargers |
G'day mates from sunny Australia,
This is my first week on the list and my first post and I've read and
learnt a lot awaits me as I progress from my empennage kit.
I have been reading about static discharger wick installations on other
RV models and as yet have found no information or references regrading
the installation of discharger wicks on 10's. Is there anyone out there
who has or plans to install discharger static wicks on their 10 please,
I'd love to hear from you and your thoughts/plans.
Regards
> PATRICK PULIS
>
Builder #40299
Adelaide, South Australia
Message 16
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| Subject: | Small clearance between nose wheel valve stem and nose |
wheel fork.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
We are building 2 RV-10's, both have the same issue. I have not had
chance to figure it all out.... It seems like the valve stem is way too
long
-Mike Kraus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Lewis
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 11:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Small clearance between nose wheel valve stem and
nose wheel fork.
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
RV-10 list,
On my RV-10 nose wheel I'm finding that the valve stem (with the valve
stem cover off) misses the nose wheel fork by only 1/8". If the valve
stem cover is on, the valve stem cover hits the nose wheel fork when the
wheel is rotated. Is this what others are seeing?
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 830 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Static Dischargers |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
> Patrick, go to tim's web page http://www.myrv10.com/ open constructions tips scroll to static discharg.
you will found an schematic for it
do not archive
Hugo
> From: "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis@seagas.com.au>
> Date: 2006/02/20 Mon PM 06:03:22 EST
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Static Dischargers
>
> G'day mates from sunny Australia,
>
> This is my first week on the list and my first post and I've read and
> learnt a lot awaits me as I progress from my empennage kit.
>
> I have been reading about static discharger wick installations on other
> RV models and as yet have found no information or references regrading
> the installation of discharger wicks on 10's. Is there anyone out there
> who has or plans to install discharger static wicks on their 10 please,
> I'd love to hear from you and your thoughts/plans.
>
> Regards
>
> > PATRICK PULIS
> >
> Builder #40299
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Static Dischargers |
Patrick, thanks for joining the list. The archives would be a great
source including one posters recommendation for discharge placements.
John Cox - KUAO
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 3:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Static Dischargers
G'day mates from sunny Australia,
This is my first week on the list and my first post and I've read and
learnt a lot awaits me as I progress from my empennage kit.
I have been reading about static discharger wick installations on other
RV models and as yet have found no information or references regrading
the installation of discharger wicks on 10's. Is there anyone out there
who has or plans to install discharger static wicks on their 10 please,
I'd love to hear from you and your thoughts/plans.
Regards
PATRICK PULIS
Builder #40299
Adelaide, South Australia
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Small clearance between nose wheel valve stem and nose |
wheel fork.
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Just checked mine tonight for you. I never really noticed it
before, but with the cap on, mine has very little (1/16" or
maybe 1/8" if I'm real lucky) clearance when it turns.
Haven't had a problem, but yeah, it sure is close.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Tim Lewis wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
>
> RV-10 list,
>
> On my RV-10 nose wheel I'm finding that the valve stem (with the valve
> stem cover off) misses the nose wheel fork by only 1/8". If the valve
> stem cover is on, the valve stem cover hits the nose wheel fork when the
> wheel is rotated. Is this what others are seeing?
>
> Tim
Message 20
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| Subject: | Useable Fuel verification on the RV-10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I have always heard that the useable fuel in the RV-10 was basically
ALL of it.
A couple days ago I had the opportunity to do a controlled test
of this.
After initially calibrating my fuel float sensors using FORWARD
sensing on the GRT EIS 6000 with my Chelton, and finding that they
really needed to be done with REVERSE sensing, I needed to drain
my tanks to get an empty and full reading from the EIS.
So I flew at 4000' AGL above the airport for what I figured
was the last few gallons of my left tank, until it ran out.
It was very interesting as my Chelton started barking at
me to "check engine" before the engine started to run rough,
because it noticed the fuel pressure dropping below limits.
I switched the valve over and everything was well. I landed,
drained the sumps into a gas can and only got out maybe 1/2
to 1qt at most. I filled the tank and calibrated it. I
then did the same flight on the right tank with the same results,
and filled that one and calibrated that one as well.
So yes, all fuel is basically useable fuel in the RV-10.
In addition, today I checked my calibration and found that the
reading on my instruments for remaining gallons was dead-nuts-on
when I topped off the tanks.
It's VERY nice to know exactly how much fuel you have. Amazing
that with float sensors I can actually say I have readings I
can trust.
Tim
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Message 21
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| Subject: | Feedback/opinion on half-way point. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
I would say it depends on a lot of things, but if you are wiring up your own
panel and plumbing your own engine, it is probably around the end of the
metal work and the beginning of the cabin top. There are so many variables
that make a difference in that, but it is probably around there.
Some people put the engine on even before they start the cabin top, which
helps balance the thing once it's on the gear (which some like to do early).
Others, like us, had the whole cabin top done and almost ready to paint
before we put the gear on, and we didn't put the engine on until the plans
said to. On the one we are building now, we are going to get the things
painted before engine or instruments or anything, so we will not need any of
that until we are done. We are having to borrow an engine to fit the
cowling and spinner.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 7:11 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Feedback/opinion on half-way point.
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I'm curious as to the opinion/feedback of others further along, or
nearing completion who also went the slo-built route, as to what your
opinion is on where or when you are 1/2 or 50% complete with your
project. (I know the old saying 50% complete 90% to go), But there must
be enough people that are complete or close to it to make some rough
estimate about where in the building process is the half-way point.
I'm trying to gauge when to commit funds to some of the major financial
outlay's (Engine & Panel) while also trying to manage cash flows/
returns. I've been working on my project steadily for 8 months now, I'm
finishing up Section 26 on the Fuse, I know that I've got more ahead of
me than is behind me, but I'd like to get an idea of how much, assuming
I continue at the same rate/pace. Your estimates of where the 1/2 way
point is should help me in that decision.
(I know that there are a LOT of variables, e.g. paint, panel, interior,
etc. I'm not looking for a precise estimate just you humble opinion
based upon your experience being further down the road than I,
THANKS
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 22
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| Subject: | Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
We put the UHMV on the top of the flap and that took care of it.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 1:02 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I temporarily attached the flaps this weekend to set neutral for aileron
actuation. I noticed when bottoming out the flaps against the rear spar
as instructed, that the flaps (both wings) rub on the overhang of the
top skins. They barely rub, but rub none the less. Is this normal? I
would hope not, as I can imagine that nice new paint would be rubbing
off every time flaps are used.
If this is not desired/normal, any suggestions?
Thanks,
-Sean #40303 (about to start bottom skins)
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Antenna options. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
We are back-riveting a lot on the current plane. With one person on the
outside with a big cylinder bucking bar on the rivet and someone on the
inside with the back-rivet set. That has really helped make the rivets turn
out nice with almost no marks or scuffs on the skin at all. This works
great on the tailcone and on the mid fuse bottom skins so far.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 10:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Antenna options.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Just curious as to whether anyone has tried to use one of those AAE dipole
antennas in their fiberglass wing tips. Using these would make the plane
more aerodynamically sound. Both comm, Nav and Transponder antennas are
available.
On another note, I will hopefully start riveting the tailcone next weekend.
Are there any suggestions on riveting those curved tailcone, fuselage
corners as this will be the first time with a part like this....all so
highly visible.
JOhn G.
Do Not Archive(DNA)
Message 24
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| Subject: | Useable Fuel verification on the RV-10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Do your tanks fit 30 gallons from empty? We put 32 gallons in per side
based on the pump we were using. Anybody else see this?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 8:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Useable Fuel verification on the RV-10
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I have always heard that the useable fuel in the RV-10 was basically
ALL of it.
A couple days ago I had the opportunity to do a controlled test
of this.
After initially calibrating my fuel float sensors using FORWARD
sensing on the GRT EIS 6000 with my Chelton, and finding that they
really needed to be done with REVERSE sensing, I needed to drain
my tanks to get an empty and full reading from the EIS.
So I flew at 4000' AGL above the airport for what I figured
was the last few gallons of my left tank, until it ran out.
It was very interesting as my Chelton started barking at
me to "check engine" before the engine started to run rough,
because it noticed the fuel pressure dropping below limits.
I switched the valve over and everything was well. I landed,
drained the sumps into a gas can and only got out maybe 1/2
to 1qt at most. I filled the tank and calibrated it. I
then did the same flight on the right tank with the same results,
and filled that one and calibrated that one as well.
So yes, all fuel is basically useable fuel in the RV-10.
In addition, today I checked my calibration and found that the
reading on my instruments for remaining gallons was dead-nuts-on
when I topped off the tanks.
It's VERY nice to know exactly how much fuel you have. Amazing
that with float sensors I can actually say I have readings I
can trust.
Tim
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Useable Fuel verification on the RV-10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Mine top of at almost exactly 30 gallons each side too.
Also, regarding calibration, I find the floats stop changing
value at right around 24 gallons during a fillup. So, I set
my fuel reading to max out at 24. I can verify fuel on
the Chelton at 60 total, and use the totalizer, and the
float levels read 24/24 for the first part of the flight.
Then once they start coming down from there, they're accurate
all the way to zero. That's the recommended calibration
practice by GRT. That's funny you get 32 gallons when
you fill up. I can't imagine the tanks would vary that much
in construction. Do you trust the fuel pump you're using?
Maybe someone is gouging you. ??
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Jesse Saint wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> Do your tanks fit 30 gallons from empty? We put 32 gallons in per side
> based on the pump we were using. Anybody else see this?
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
> please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
> please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
> voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 8:21 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Useable Fuel verification on the RV-10
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I have always heard that the useable fuel in the RV-10 was basically
> ALL of it.
>
> A couple days ago I had the opportunity to do a controlled test
> of this.
>
> After initially calibrating my fuel float sensors using FORWARD
> sensing on the GRT EIS 6000 with my Chelton, and finding that they
> really needed to be done with REVERSE sensing, I needed to drain
> my tanks to get an empty and full reading from the EIS.
>
> So I flew at 4000' AGL above the airport for what I figured
> was the last few gallons of my left tank, until it ran out.
> It was very interesting as my Chelton started barking at
> me to "check engine" before the engine started to run rough,
> because it noticed the fuel pressure dropping below limits.
> I switched the valve over and everything was well. I landed,
> drained the sumps into a gas can and only got out maybe 1/2
> to 1qt at most. I filled the tank and calibrated it. I
> then did the same flight on the right tank with the same results,
> and filled that one and calibrated that one as well.
>
> So yes, all fuel is basically useable fuel in the RV-10.
>
> In addition, today I checked my calibration and found that the
> reading on my instruments for remaining gallons was dead-nuts-on
> when I topped off the tanks.
>
> It's VERY nice to know exactly how much fuel you have. Amazing
> that with float sensors I can actually say I have readings I
> can trust.
>
> Tim
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Static Dischargers |
Static DischargersI'm incorporating them on my -10 only because the original builder
started with them. I've got one on the top of the rudder, one towards the
outboard tip of each elevator and probably a couple per aileron. Not sure
if the flaps will have any yet or not. The wicks I have are easily removeable
with just 2 small bolts so I'll probably leave them off most of the time so as
to save my eyes a few pokings. Also, don't forget that you should probably
use bonding straps on your hinges also.
Bill Britton
RV-10 Tailcone
#40137
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Pulis
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 5:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Static Dischargers
G'day mates from sunny Australia,
This is my first week on the list and my first post and I've read and learnt
a lot awaits me as I progress from my empennage kit.
I have been reading about static discharger wick installations on other RV models
and as yet have found no information or references regrading the installation
of discharger wicks on 10's. Is there anyone out there who has or plans
to install discharger static wicks on their 10 please, I'd love to hear from you
and your thoughts/plans.
Regards
PATRICK PULIS
Builder #40299
Adelaide, South Australia
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Useable Fuel verification on the RV-10 |
In a message dated 2/20/06 9:11:50 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
Tim@MyRV10.com writes:
That's funny you get 32 gallons when
you fill up. I can't imagine the tanks would vary that much
in construction. Do you trust the fuel pump you're using?
Maybe someone is gouging you. ??
Fill a KNOWN 5 gallon gas can at several gas stations, and then at the
airport fuel pump and see if you get the same results. Best to do this when your
car needs gas!!! Alternately, you can fill the 5 gallon gas can with water
from 1 gallon milk jugs and note the level when 5 have been added. Don't use
a 1 gallon can for the test, the larger 5 gallon volume will give more
reliable data. Calibrate the pump first, then your tanks, or calculate the
error and ask for a refund for all the gas they charged you for, and never
delivered.... if that is the case.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder #40499 / C-170B flyer
766 SE River Lane
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 cell
Message 28
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|
Anybody got a good tip where I could find an installation manual, or at least a
pin-out for an Apollo altitude encoder I just got lightly used off eBay?
TDT
40025
do not archive
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