Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:46 AM - Re: Painting (Carl Froehlich)
2. 04:58 AM - Re: IFR GPS (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
3. 05:37 AM - Re: IFR GPS (Tim Olson)
4. 06:17 AM - Re: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question (Marcus Cooper)
5. 06:34 AM - Re: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question (James Hein)
6. 06:39 AM - Re: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question (Tim Olson)
7. 08:58 AM - Andair Fuel Valve Installation (Larry Rosen)
8. 09:01 AM - Andair Fuel Valve Installation Photo (Larry Rosen)
9. 10:16 AM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve Installation (Richard Sipp)
10. 10:20 AM - Re: Painting (zackrv8)
11. 11:50 AM - Re: Re: Painting (Carl Froehlich)
12. 12:52 PM - Re: Re: Painting (Randy Lervold)
13. 02:15 PM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve Installation (Tim Olson)
14. 04:37 PM - Elevator Root Rib (Shawn Moon)
15. 05:31 PM - Re: Garmin G1000 for aftermarket install? (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
16. 05:31 PM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve Installation (David McNeill)
17. 05:32 PM - Re: Elevator Root Rib (bob.kaufmann)
18. 05:50 PM - Newbie question: "Do Not Archive" ((-Phil-))
19. 05:55 PM - Hugo rv10-40456 ()
20. 08:15 PM - Andair Fuel Valve (Sean Blair)
21. 08:53 PM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve (Tim Olson)
22. 09:18 PM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve (Sean Blair)
23. 09:27 PM - Elevator balance (Sean Blair)
24. 09:47 PM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve (Tim Olson)
25. 10:32 PM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve (Sean Blair)
Message 1
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@cox.net>
Recommend flying before painting. You will be amazed at the "little
changes" you will want to do the first year - most of which will mar your
nice paint job.
Assuming you will do the painting, recommend removing the wings to paint.
The gain in ease far outweighs the 3-4 of hours of work to pull the wings.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (250 hours)
RV-10 (tail)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of sam.marlow
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 10:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Painting
--> RV10-List message posted by: "sam.marlow" <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
For those of you that have finishd building an RV of any type, can you shed
some light on weather to assemble fully before or after painting?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=15052#15052
Message 2
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In a message dated 2/25/06 12:04:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com writes:
The final approval rests
with the FSDO.
If you have the opportunity to research this, I believe you'll find that
this information may have been supplemented, additionally you'll find that about
a year or so ago the FAA changed it's policy on GPS's, they can now legally
be installed by an A&P in a certified aircraft instead of the IA that was
required before nor does the FSDO currently have to do an inspection of each
installation and sign it off during testing at it did in the original circular.
The current thought is that IFR GPS are basically bullet proof, if installed
per manufacturers instructions and it you follow the installation
instructions as to placement etc of critic components then the GPS will meet the
TSO
standards. You can question your local FSDO...it you've still are required to
test fly the IFR GPS in VRF conditions to test and note the GPS in service in
you frame log...
Sorry of the sudden entry, I've been lurking on line for a while...currently
own a PA 28 235 with an IFR Cert'd GPS, restoring a J 5--with the best GPS
of all...a clear windshield and hope to clear enough time to begin an RV 10,
thus I've been lurking on line and learning. But with the GPS question I
though I'd chip in a little background info that I've kept track of in the past
couple of years.
I'm located in PA at N 57...New Garden Airport...am President of EAA Chapter
240, _www.eaa240.org_ (http://www.eaa240.org) if you want to visit our
Chapter Web site. We have 3 members that are currently building RV 10's several
that are flying various RV's and one RV 8 in our hangar getting it's
finishing touches...Lucky Macy, as he's just received his "pink" slip, ready for
taxi
testing etc. By the way my name's Patrick Scott...and it has been great to
read your information I'd like to thank all for sharing so much and it's good
to see a few ol Mooney folks on the line. Plus visit Dan C's web site, plus
I watch and Doug Petersen's 10 come together..Rivet Boy...John G is from
the Piper site I also read and post on...
This group has been a very good learning experience for me and I hope to
meet a few of you at SnF as I'll be there from Tuesday to Thursday...coming down
commercial to attend a friend's wedding and then will be extending into SnF.
No I'm not related to the other Mr Scott of Van's...
Sorry to have jumped on so directly...but the GPS thing is one avionics item
that's changing somewhat quickly in FAA terms; like others have suggested
you may want to located the antenna as close as possible to your unit; and I
don't believe you want to do this for line lose reasons but because of potential
interference...one thing to keep in mind GPS antennae do not slick out into
the slip stream compared to radio antennae; so a position behind the upper
"dome" of the cabin top may not really effect your aerodynamics greatly. I'm
not an IA/A&P but I'd probably guess if you check with any avionics shop that
they'd tell you the antenna will need to be a permanent installation and not
like a hockey puck you can stick up in a glare screen area and later remove
to another location. Antenna must be fixed in place for IFR operations. IFR
equipment generally is required to be permanently installed with current data
base, per instructions and FAA requirements. Thus a porcine coupler/unit etc
temp antenna's etc...will probably not meet requirements...IMHO
please do not archive
Patrick Scott
Message 3
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Man, check out the newcomer. Good info, great post, and he even
knows how to use the "do not archive". Patrick, we're glad to
have you on the list.
As far as my GPS antenna's go, I want nothing but the best in
signal, so I didn't go with any internal mounting at all. I know
from a few years with handhelds that they can work fine on
the glareshield. But, this is an IFR GPS install, and I agree
as below....permanent mount, and find the best suitable place.
Antennas and N-Number's aren't what makes a plane ugly. Ugly
paint is what makes them ugly. I just want to have a GPS that
never says "loss of coverage" to me.
I have my Chelton's GPS antenna on the top of the tailcone,
and my GNS480's antenna right on the top of the canopy behind
the support bar. The wires ran up the support bar tube.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
GRANSCOTT@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/25/06 12:04:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com writes:
>
> The final approval rests
> with the FSDO.
>
> If you have the opportunity to research this, I believe you'll find that
> this information may have been supplemented, additionally you'll find
> that about a year or so ago the FAA changed it's policy on GPS's, they
> can now legally be installed by an A&P in a certified aircraft instead
> of the IA that was required before nor does the FSDO currently have to
> do an inspection of each installation and sign it off during testing at
> it did in the original circular. The current thought is that IFR GPS
> are basically bullet proof, if installed per manufacturers
> instructions and it you follow the installation instructions as to
> placement etc of critic components then the GPS will meet the TSO
> standards. You can question your local FSDO...it you've still are
> required to test fly the IFR GPS in VRF conditions to test and note the
> GPS in service in you frame log...
>
> Sorry of the sudden entry, I've been lurking on line for a
> while...currently own a PA 28 235 with an IFR Cert'd GPS, restoring a J
> 5--with the best GPS of all...a clear windshield and hope to clear
> enough time to begin an RV 10, thus I've been lurking on line and
> learning. But with the GPS question I though I'd chip in a little
> background info that I've kept track of in the past couple of years.
>
> I'm located in PA at N 57...New Garden Airport...am President of EAA
> Chapter 240, www.eaa240.org <http://www.eaa240.org> if you want to visit
> our Chapter Web site. We have 3 members that are currently building RV
> 10's several that are flying various RV's and one RV 8 in our hangar
> getting it's finishing touches...Lucky Macy, as he's just received his
> "pink" slip, ready for taxi testing etc. By the way my name's Patrick
> Scott...and it has been great to read your information I'd like to thank
> all for sharing so much and it's good to see a few ol Mooney folks on
> the line. Plus visit Dan C's web site, plus I watch and Doug
> Petersen's 10 come together..Rivet Boy...John G is from the Piper site I
> also read and post on...
>
> This group has been a very good learning experience for me and I hope to
> meet a few of you at SnF as I'll be there from Tuesday to
> Thursday...coming down commercial to attend a friend's wedding and then
> will be extending into SnF. No I'm not related to the other Mr Scott of
> Van's...
>
> Sorry to have jumped on so directly...but the GPS thing is one avionics
> item that's changing somewhat quickly in FAA terms; like others have
> suggested you may want to located the antenna as close as possible to
> your unit; and I don't believe you want to do this for line lose reasons
> but because of potential interference...one thing to keep in mind GPS
> antennae do not slick out into the slip stream compared to radio
> antennae; so a position behind the upper "dome" of the cabin top may not
> really effect your aerodynamics greatly. I'm not an IA/A&P but I'd
> probably guess if you check with any avionics shop that they'd tell you
> the antenna will need to be a permanent installation and not like a
> hockey puck you can stick up in a glare screen area and later remove to
> another location. Antenna must be fixed in place for IFR operations. IFR
> equipment generally is required to be permanently installed with current
> data base, per instructions and FAA requirements. Thus a porcine
> coupler/unit etc temp antenna's etc...will probably not meet
> requirements...IMHO
>
> please do not archive
>
> Patrick Scott
Message 4
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Subject: | IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
I agree that the GPS antenna is so small it's hardly an issue aesthetically.
I have a question about the ground plane comment though. I have also read
on the list that the longer the coax the greater the signal loss, which is
amplified on the WAAS systems. My question is, is it better to accept the
greater loss and go with a better ground plane by installing it just aft of
the cabin, or go with min coax and put it at the front of the cabin (per Tim
Olson) but have no ground plane?
Thanks,
Marcus
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 1:46 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question
The GPS is one of the lowest-profile antennas you are going to have, so why
not install in on the outside, with lots of metal ground plane around it?
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Marcus,
Yes, coax has losses; The higher the frequency the higher the loss.
Now, most external GPS antennas are amplified, so at the point where the
signal is received, before it gets sent down the coax, it is amplified -
thus overcoming cable losses (up to a point).
Before someone points out that GPS antennas aren't powered because there
are no power connections on the antenna.... There is a DC power signal
(usually 5v) sent on the coax. This signal doesn't cause problems
because the RF signal is decoupled by a capacitor inside the GPS.
-Jim 40384 (Also an extra class ham radio operator)
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
>I agree that the GPS antenna is so small it's hardly an issue aesthetically.
>I have a question about the ground plane comment though. I have also read
>on the list that the longer the coax the greater the signal loss, which is
>amplified on the WAAS systems. My question is, is it better to accept the
>greater loss and go with a better ground plane by installing it just aft of
>the cabin, or go with min coax and put it at the front of the cabin (per Tim
>Olson) but have no ground plane?
>
>Thanks,
>Marcus
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Tim Dawson-Townsend [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
>Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
>Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 1:46 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question
>
>
>The GPS is one of the lowest-profile antennas you are going to have, so why
>not install in on the outside, with lots of metal ground plane around it?
>
>TDT
>40025
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I'm not sure of this other than what the Comant tech told me, but...
The GPS/WSI combo antenna I got (should also be same for plain GPS)
doesn't require a ground PLANE, but it does require a ground wire
that runs to the antenna so it has a return path for the active
powered stuff. I don't know if it would perform better with a
ground plane though. I've considered actually putting a ground
plane in, on the inside of the cabin, under the headliner.
I'd do it in a minute if it was required, but right now I'm
trying to fly and see how it goes. So far the GPS is
tracking perfectly. My TruTrak, Chelton, and GNS480 all read
the exact same heading at all times. Great stuff.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I agree that the GPS antenna is so small it's hardly an issue aesthetically.
> I have a question about the ground plane comment though. I have also read
> on the list that the longer the coax the greater the signal loss, which is
> amplified on the WAAS systems. My question is, is it better to accept the
> greater loss and go with a better ground plane by installing it just aft of
> the cabin, or go with min coax and put it at the front of the cabin (per Tim
> Olson) but have no ground plane?
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tim Dawson-Townsend [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
> Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 1:46 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question
>
>
> The GPS is one of the lowest-profile antennas you are going to have, so why
> not install in on the outside, with lots of metal ground plane around it?
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve Installation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I am part way through installing my Andair EFS20f7f fuel valve. I got
the valve with a 6" extension and coupler. I do not think I will need
the coupler. I have updated my web site so you can see where I am at
and what the installation looks like. Here is the link to the details
of the installation so far
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Fuselage/Fuel_lines/index.html>.
The valve mount is made out of .063 sheet and angle. It is connected to
the tunnel about 3 3/8" below the stock valve mount. This gives 2 1/4"
clearance between the new Andair valve mount and the rudder cable.
Hopefully this is enough room to get the scat tube through. The valve
is mounted with the inlets forward (opposite of what the plans call for)
so the right fuel tank feeds the right side of the valve and the left
fuel tank feeds the left side of the valve. Also, a 90 degree fitting
is required in lieu of the 45 degree fitting that the plans use (the
fittings are on order). I tried mounting the valve per the plans and
cross over the fuel lines, put the fittings were too close to the tunnel
and the bends were very difficult to make. This installation seems to
me to be much easier and well clear of any interferences.
Take a look and let me know what you think.
Will the scat tube clear?
Should I install a 90 degree bulk head fitting where the fuel lines
enter the tunnel in lieu of the 90 degree bend?
--
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Message 8
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Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve Installation Photo |
Attached is a photo of the installation. Hopefully small enough for
those on dial up. Link to more photos is
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Fuselage/Fuel_lines/index.html>
--
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve Installation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
Larry, I used 90 degree bulkhead fittings where the fuel lines enter the
tunnel. This seemed to make installing the fuel lines easier. I'm not much
good at making good looking lines and this worked better for me.
Dick Sipp
#40065
.
>
> Take a look and let me know what you think.
> Will the scat tube clear?
> Should I install a 90 degree bulk head fitting where the fuel lines enter
> the tunnel in lieu of the 90 degree bend?
>
> --
>
> Larry Rosen
> RV-10 #356
> http://lrosen.nerv10.com
>
Message 10
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
sam.marlow wrote:
> For those of you that have finishd building an RV of any type, can you shed some
light on weather to assemble fully before or after painting?
I have to disagree with Carl. I would certainly paint the whole plane before flying.
Here's my reason's...
First, if you paint it yourself or have someone else paint, it will be easier
with the wings off. I highly recommend painting your wings with the wings off.
You mount them vertically you can work on both sides at once. Also, bugs
and dirt won't collect as easily as if the wings were horizontal. Then, if using
a 2 stage paint process, it makes sanding the clearcoat easier.
Second, if you fly your plane and then decide to paint it, you will be without
a plane for awhile. This will drive you crazy! All your buds flying but not
you! You could go into "RV withdraw" symtoms.
Third, the only thing I noticed on my RV8 was paint chipping where the cowl meets
the fuselage. I had too small a clearance and because of airloads and the
hingepin wearing, that nice tight gap I had closed up and chipped the paint.
Just keep the distance from the cowl to the fuselage about the thickness of a
hacksaw blade and you should be fine. As the hingepins wear, the gap will be
enough not to chip your paint.
I can't see any other problems that would preclude you from painting before flying.
Maybe Carl could elaborate more.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=15148#15148
Message 11
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@cox.net>
I fully agree with Zack that you paint with the wings and the empennage
removed.
For my RV-8A, there were advantages to wait on painting until after flying
and working out the bugs. Here are a few things that I changed between
flying and painting:
1. Small weeping rivet on the one gas tank. Not enough to drip, but enough
to really irritate you as it would leave a green streak on the skin. Easy
to fix when taking the wing off for painting. Yes - I did a leak check when
building but this problem did not present itself.
2. Resetting the angle of incident on the horizontal stabilizer. I ended
up adding a .040 shim under the forward stabilizer spar as I was getting too
much down force. The shim turned out to be just the right size, but it was
enough that the empennage fairing did not fit so it had to be redone.
3. Rigging (and re-rigging). Many small changes done to dial the plane in.
One required replacing the one aileron mounting bracket. Although not
required, I chose to glass in the wing tip, aileron, flap, rudder and
elevator end ribs. Doing this after all the rigging adjustments and trials,
I had confidence that I would not have to redo this work after painting.
4. Replacing the static air ports. I started out with a combination heated
pitot tube (both static and dynamic ports in the tube). This arrangement
yielded a 200' altitude error, and indicated speed dropping to zero at very
high angles of attack.
5. One major redo on the main gear wheel pants mounting - required reglass
work.
6. One major redo on the main gear leg fairings - required reglass work.
I flew the plane for two years before painting. I did however paint all
fiberglass pieces with PPG Concept single stage paint (not base coat/clear
coat) so that the plane looked halfway decent. This was a simple, "one coat
of blue in the garage" job but it looked fine.
Zack is absolutely right however that you will be tempted never to paint it
after flying. These planes are way fun!
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of zackrv8
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 1:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Painting
--> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
sam.marlow wrote:
> For those of you that have finishd building an RV of any type, can you
shed some light on weather to assemble fully before or after painting?
I have to disagree with Carl. I would certainly paint the whole plane
before flying. Here's my reason's...
First, if you paint it yourself or have someone else paint, it will be
easier with the wings off. I highly recommend painting your wings with the
wings off. You mount them vertically you can work on both sides at once.
Also, bugs and dirt won't collect as easily as if the wings were horizontal.
Then, if using a 2 stage paint process, it makes sanding the clearcoat
easier.
Second, if you fly your plane and then decide to paint it, you will be
without a plane for awhile. This will drive you crazy! All your buds
flying but not you! You could go into "RV withdraw" symtoms.
Third, the only thing I noticed on my RV8 was paint chipping where the
cowl meets the fuselage. I had too small a clearance and because of
airloads and the hingepin wearing, that nice tight gap I had closed up and
chipped the paint.
Just keep the distance from the cowl to the fuselage about the thickness
of a hacksaw blade and you should be fine. As the hingepins wear, the gap
will be enough not to chip your paint.
I can't see any other problems that would preclude you from painting
before flying. Maybe Carl could elaborate more.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=15148#15148
Message 12
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> sam.marlow wrote:
>> For those of you that have finishd building an RV of any type, can you
>> shed some light on weather to assemble fully before or after painting?
>
>
> I have to disagree with Carl. I would certainly paint the whole plane
> before flying. Here's my reason's...
>
> First, if you paint it yourself or have someone else paint, it will be
> easier with the wings off. I highly recommend painting your wings with
> the wings off. You mount them vertically you can work on both sides at
> once. Also, bugs and dirt won't collect as easily as if the wings were
> horizontal. Then, if using a 2 stage paint process, it makes sanding the
> clearcoat easier.
>
> Second, if you fly your plane and then decide to paint it, you will be
> without a plane for awhile. This will drive you crazy! All your buds
> flying but not you! You could go into "RV withdraw" symtoms.
>
> Third, the only thing I noticed on my RV8 was paint chipping where the
> cowl meets the fuselage. I had too small a clearance and because of
> airloads and the hingepin wearing, that nice tight gap I had closed up and
> chipped the paint.
>
> Just keep the distance from the cowl to the fuselage about the thickness
> of a hacksaw blade and you should be fine. As the hingepins wear, the gap
> will be enough not to chip your paint.
>
> I can't see any other problems that would preclude you from painting
> before flying. Maybe Carl could elaborate more.
>
> Zack
I'm with Zack on all counts and plan to paint first in parts on my current
project (RV-3B) just like I did on my RV-8. Pay attention to what he says
about end clearance where fiberglass parts but up against something else.
Starting with 1/8" clearnace is a good rule of thumb because primer and
paint will decrease the final gap.
Randy Lervold
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve Installation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I would guess that the 90 degree would be fine. I don't know how
much restriction it would give. I was unsure, so I tried to
eliminate any 90's that I could other than the ones going right
into the valve itself. One note....Don't think of things as
being too permanent until you start getting the filter and pump
in place too. That's when it really starts to get convoluted.
It's tough to get the proper height and angle on some of those
tight bends. Looks good so far though.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Larry Rosen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
> I am part way through installing my Andair EFS20f7f fuel valve. I got
> the valve with a 6" extension and coupler. I do not think I will need
> the coupler. I have updated my web site so you can see where I am at
> and what the installation looks like. Here is the link to the details
> of the installation so far
> <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Fuselage/Fuel_lines/index.html>.
> The valve mount is made out of .063 sheet and angle. It is connected to
> the tunnel about 3 3/8" below the stock valve mount. This gives 2 1/4"
> clearance between the new Andair valve mount and the rudder cable.
> Hopefully this is enough room to get the scat tube through. The valve
> is mounted with the inlets forward (opposite of what the plans call for)
> so the right fuel tank feeds the right side of the valve and the left
> fuel tank feeds the left side of the valve. Also, a 90 degree fitting
> is required in lieu of the 45 degree fitting that the plans use (the
> fittings are on order). I tried mounting the valve per the plans and
> cross over the fuel lines, put the fittings were too close to the tunnel
> and the bends were very difficult to make. This installation seems to
> me to be much easier and well clear of any interferences.
> Take a look and let me know what you think.
> Will the scat tube clear?
> Should I install a 90 degree bulk head fitting where the fuel lines
> enter the tunnel in lieu of the 90 degree bend?
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Elevator Root Rib |
All,
I thought this question had been answered, but I could not find it in the archive
search. I am having a real hard time riveting the E-904 tip rib to the
elevator front spar (page 9-14 steo 5). I have a pneumatic squeezer and there
just isn't enough space to get it in there to squeeze. The body of it hits against
the rib and keeps it from squeezing perpendicular to the spar. Does anybody
have any good ideas on this?
--Shawn
40366
---------------------------------
Brings words and photos together (easily) with
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Garmin G1000 for aftermarket install? |
G 1000
I have several hours behind the G 1000 screens/system in a C 182T
model--with the FITS training etc for CAP,...it's a nice system but I'm not sure
I'd
pay the up charge is for this system. First of all the KAP 140 while a good
autopilot is not really part of the G 1000 set up, Garmin is apparently
currently developing their own autopilot.
In the G 1000, one set's the Altimeter setting 3 time for each change...in
the G 1000, the back up altimeter, and the auto pilot. When you set a cruise
altitude you set it in the system twice also, once in the G 1000 screen as a
target altitude and again on the KAP 140, but the auto pilot will only
intercept the AP setting and in the Cessna the AP goes above the altitude 20-40'
before it settles back down to your altitude.
I'd rather have an altitude that I could set and check off of the GPS rather
than pressure settings. You can check these figures off of the MFD pages but
it's several page flips getting there.
Programming the G 1000 is very simple and it's easy to use but I don't
believe I would pay the amount of money they are asking...if you're not aware of
what the current charge is...it's about an $80k upgrade cost from a current IFR
set up system so if you trade in the items plus the upgrade the real cost is
somewhere north of a $100k. Believe it or not with the KAP 140 there is a
T&B indicator but it's buried behind the MFD screen so if you lose both
screens it will do you no good what so ever as a back up instrument.
The built in engine instruments are great and it's dead simple to lean out
the engine to what ever setting you desire, plus the flow meter is so easy to
read in a tape display. Actually using the tapes and electronic HSI,
displays are very easy to learn and follow...too easy I'd fear...I think if you
really learned IFR on this system you'd have a hard time understanding steam
instruments...easy to go electronic but tough going the other way.
While I only have about 25 actual hours of G 1000 time, I did several day's
and evening on ground school, plus sim time and played with the computer
simulator on my computer...which is pretty realistic better than the certified
old fashion sim's I've flown...IMHO. I hope to get a little bit of time with
a
friend of mine and his glass screens he's putting together for a
Velocity...I can't imagine with a few items that are experimental only, and the
TruTrak
AP, it won't be better than the G 1000/KAP 140 for tens of thousands less.
Nice article in Aviation Consumer about the G 1000 vs. Integra.
Patrick Scott
do not archive
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve Installation |
Here are the pictures of our Andair fuel selector mount; using Tim's
suggestion we left the tractor selector mount in place until our replacement
was fabricated and clecloed in place. Note that we have solved the problem
of removing the forward tunnel cover by splitting the aft end.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Rosen" <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 9:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve Installation
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
> I am part way through installing my Andair EFS20f7f fuel valve. I got the
> valve with a 6" extension and coupler. I do not think I will need the
> coupler. I have updated my web site so you can see where I am at and what
> the installation looks like. Here is the link to the details of the
> installation so far
> <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Fuselage/Fuel_lines/index.html>.
> The valve mount is made out of .063 sheet and angle. It is connected to
> the tunnel about 3 3/8" below the stock valve mount. This gives 2 1/4"
> clearance between the new Andair valve mount and the rudder cable.
> Hopefully this is enough room to get the scat tube through. The valve is
> mounted with the inlets forward (opposite of what the plans call for) so
> the right fuel tank feeds the right side of the valve and the left fuel
> tank feeds the left side of the valve. Also, a 90 degree fitting is
> required in lieu of the 45 degree fitting that the plans use (the fittings
> are on order). I tried mounting the valve per the plans and cross over
> the fuel lines, put the fittings were too close to the tunnel and the
> bends were very difficult to make. This installation seems to me to be
> much easier and well clear of any interferences.
> Take a look and let me know what you think.
> Will the scat tube clear?
> Should I install a 90 degree bulk head fitting where the fuel lines enter
> the tunnel in lieu of the 90 degree bend?
>
> --
>
> Larry Rosen
> RV-10 #356
> http://lrosen.nerv10.com
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Elevator Root Rib |
Buck it.
Bob K
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Moon
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 4:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator Root Rib
All,
I thought this question had been answered, but I could not find it in the
archive search. I am having a real hard time riveting the E-904 tip rib to
the elevator front spar (page 9-14 steo 5). I have a pneumatic squeezer and
there just isn't enough space to get it in there to squeeze. The body of it
hits against the rib and keeps it from squeezing perpendicular to the spar.
Does anybody have any good ideas on this?
--Shawn
40366
_____
Brings words and photos together (easily) with
PhotoMail
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Message 18
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|
Subject: | Newbie question: "Do Not Archive" |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "(-Phil-)" <rv10@mindfart.com>
Pardon me if this is in the archives... ;-) But why do so many people
choose to "Do Not Archive"?
This seems to reduce valuable information that could be used by others that
enter later on... It seems counterintuitive to the purpose of a community
list.
-Phil
Message 19
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Hi, Hugo Here,riveting the tail cone.
Does any body in the field use or intend to use a Trio Avionics AP, May be I was
a little stupid order one without ask the questions first,any good or bad news
regarding this product?.
Las year at Sun&fun I see them,and personally liked,any opinion ?
Thanks.
Hugo
do not archive
Message 20
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Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
Okay....I'm still learning, but on the Andair Valve it seems that many
people are utilizing the valve with a "left" and "right" selection only.
Wouldn't it be beneficial to have a "both" selection as well, like the
FS20X4?
Sean B.
#40225
Do Not Archive
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I don't think you'd want this on a low-wing plane.
Besides that, it's easier to practice good fuel management and have
reserve if you're always keeping the tanks separate.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Sean Blair wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
>
>
>
> Okay....I'm still learning, but on the Andair Valve it seems that many
> people are utilizing the valve with a "left" and "right" selection only.
> Wouldn't it be beneficial to have a "both" selection as well, like the
> FS20X4?
>
> Sean B.
> #40225
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 22
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Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
Thanks Tim. Knowing what you know now, would you choose the FS20X3 (180
degrees) or FS20X7 (45 degrees) based on installation aspects? Also, male
or female fittings?
Sean B.
#40225
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 9:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I don't think you'd want this on a low-wing plane.
Besides that, it's easier to practice good fuel management and have
reserve if you're always keeping the tanks separate.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Sean Blair wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
>
>
>
> Okay....I'm still learning, but on the Andair Valve it seems that many
> people are utilizing the valve with a "left" and "right" selection only.
> Wouldn't it be beneficial to have a "both" selection as well, like the
> FS20X4?
>
> Sean B.
> #40225
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 23
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|
Subject: | Elevator balance |
I had my EAA Tech Advisor perform an inspection today and he noticed
something interesting that puzzles me too. The elevators are hanging on the
horizontal stabilizer with temporary pins and able to move freely. They are
not yet attached to each other and both of them settle in the down position
even if you manually move them to the up position. I have rechecked the
installation of the counterweights and it appears they are correct. Is this
normal? I thought, and so did my tech advisor, the elevators would be
balanced rather than fall to the down position.
Thanks,
Sean B.
#40225
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That's a tough one. I'd like to see how Larry's install goes with the
FS20X7 valve before I'd decide. On one hand, the FS20X3 is kind of
weird with the inlets on the Left and Front. On the other hand, I can't
tell if there is going to be any clearance problem with the outlet
passing by the tubes on the new valve. My guess is there won't be any
problem and the FS20X7 would be the best valve for the job. I would
get 90 degree Male -6 fittings on the valve. I wouldn't get NPT
fittings and add my own elbows, I'd get the built-in Andair elbows so
that all 3 connections come off the bottom. I am not having any
problems at all with my install, and I'm appreciating my flex fuel
lines greatly. I do think though that if I could start all over
I'd be using the 90 degree (45 to Left and 45 to right) valve. It'll
be great to see how Larry's comes out. The proof will be when the
fuel filter and pump are all connected. I think the hardest part
is the positioning and fittings used to mount the valve to the filter,
while still allowing clearance for the elevator bellcrank that hooks
up to the sticks.
I did learn something from my DAR who happens to work at Cirrus.
Cirrus uses Andair valves in their aircraft. So I guess even the
pros like them.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Sean Blair wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
>
> Thanks Tim. Knowing what you know now, would you choose the FS20X3 (180
> degrees) or FS20X7 (45 degrees) based on installation aspects? Also, male
> or female fittings?
>
> Sean B.
> #40225
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 9:51 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I don't think you'd want this on a low-wing plane.
> Besides that, it's easier to practice good fuel management and have
> reserve if you're always keeping the tanks separate.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Sean Blair wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
>>
>>
>>
>> Okay....I'm still learning, but on the Andair Valve it seems that many
>> people are utilizing the valve with a "left" and "right" selection only.
>> Wouldn't it be beneficial to have a "both" selection as well, like the
>> FS20X4?
>>
>> Sean B.
>> #40225
>>
>> Do Not Archive
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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|
Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
This is very helpful advice. Thanks..........again.
Sean
#40225
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 10:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That's a tough one. I'd like to see how Larry's install goes with the
FS20X7 valve before I'd decide. On one hand, the FS20X3 is kind of
weird with the inlets on the Left and Front. On the other hand, I can't
tell if there is going to be any clearance problem with the outlet
passing by the tubes on the new valve. My guess is there won't be any
problem and the FS20X7 would be the best valve for the job. I would
get 90 degree Male -6 fittings on the valve. I wouldn't get NPT
fittings and add my own elbows, I'd get the built-in Andair elbows so
that all 3 connections come off the bottom. I am not having any
problems at all with my install, and I'm appreciating my flex fuel
lines greatly. I do think though that if I could start all over
I'd be using the 90 degree (45 to Left and 45 to right) valve. It'll
be great to see how Larry's comes out. The proof will be when the
fuel filter and pump are all connected. I think the hardest part
is the positioning and fittings used to mount the valve to the filter,
while still allowing clearance for the elevator bellcrank that hooks
up to the sticks.
I did learn something from my DAR who happens to work at Cirrus.
Cirrus uses Andair valves in their aircraft. So I guess even the
pros like them.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Sean Blair wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
>
> Thanks Tim. Knowing what you know now, would you choose the FS20X3 (180
> degrees) or FS20X7 (45 degrees) based on installation aspects? Also, male
> or female fittings?
>
> Sean B.
> #40225
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 9:51 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I don't think you'd want this on a low-wing plane.
> Besides that, it's easier to practice good fuel management and have
> reserve if you're always keeping the tanks separate.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Sean Blair wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
>>
>>
>>
>> Okay....I'm still learning, but on the Andair Valve it seems that many
>> people are utilizing the valve with a "left" and "right" selection only.
>> Wouldn't it be beneficial to have a "both" selection as well, like the
>> FS20X4?
>>
>> Sean B.
>> #40225
>>
>> Do Not Archive
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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