Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:15 AM - Re: Elevator balance (Marcus Cooper)
2. 04:29 AM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve (rob kermanj)
3. 06:18 AM - Re: Elevator balance (John W. Cox)
4. 06:54 AM - Re: Garmin G1000 for aftermarket install? (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
5. 12:28 PM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve (Larry Rosen)
6. 12:35 PM - Re: Hugo rv10-40456 (Michael Schipper)
7. 12:39 PM - Re: Re: Painting (sam.marlow@adelphia.net)
8. 01:40 PM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve (John Jessen)
9. 01:40 PM - Re: Elevator Root Rib (Shawn Moon)
10. 01:43 PM - Re: Re: Hugo rv10-40456 ()
11. 01:46 PM - Re: Elevator balance (retraction) (Marcus Cooper)
12. 02:02 PM - Re: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
13. 02:33 PM - Re: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question (Tim Olson)
14. 03:29 PM - Tough to set rudder rivet (Dave Leikam)
15. 03:48 PM - Re: Tough to set rudder rivet (John Gonzalez)
16. 04:04 PM - Re: Elevator balance (retraction) (seanblair@adelphia.net)
17. 04:04 PM - Re: Tough to set rudder rivet (PJ Seipel)
18. 04:06 PM - Re: Elevator Root Rib (John Gonzalez)
19. 04:09 PM - Re: Tough to set rudder rivet (Jeff Carpenter)
20. 04:50 PM - Re: Painting (zackrv8)
21. 04:52 PM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve (Larry Rosen)
22. 04:54 PM - Re: Re: Painting (sam.marlow@adelphia.net)
23. 05:05 PM - Re: Elevator balance (retraction) (John Dunne)
24. 05:18 PM - Re: Tough to set rudder rivet (Eric_Kallio)
25. 05:24 PM - Re: Elevator Root Rib (Rick)
26. 05:26 PM - Re: Elevator balance (retraction) (John W. Cox)
27. 05:47 PM - Re: Tough to set rudder rivet - Did it! (Dave Leikam)
28. 05:53 PM - Fw: Tough to set rudder rivet - Did it! (Dave Leikam)
29. 05:57 PM - Tough to set rudder rivet - Did it! (Dave Leikam)
30. 09:18 PM - Re: Elevator balance (retraction) (Robert G. Wright)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Elevator balance |
Sean,
Actually, what you have is correct. You don't want them extremely heavy,
but purely balanced elevators will be prone to flutter. In early my RV-6
you poured in a bunch of lead and then later drilled it out so as to achieve
a slightly tail low condition.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 12:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator balance
I had my EAA Tech Advisor perform an inspection today and he noticed
something interesting that puzzles me too. The elevators are hanging on the
horizontal stabilizer with temporary pins and able to move freely. They are
not yet attached to each other and both of them settle in the down position
even if you manually move them to the up position. I have rechecked the
installation of the counterweights and it appears they are correct. Is this
normal? I thought, and so did my tech advisor, the elevators would be
balanced rather than fall to the down position.
Thanks,
Sean B.
#40225
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve |
--> RV10-List message posted by: rob kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
If you have a "Both" selection in a low wing plane, one tank will run
dry first. You will be left with fuel in one tank and a fuel starved
engine!
Do Not Archive
rob kermanj
rv10es@earthlink.net
On Feb 26, 2006, at 11:12 PM, Sean Blair wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
>
>
> Okay....I'm still learning, but on the Andair Valve it seems that many
> people are utilizing the valve with a "left" and "right" selection
> only.
> Wouldn't it be beneficial to have a "both" selection as well, like the
> FS20X4?
>
> Sean B.
> #40225
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Elevator balance |
Marcus, at first blush my B#$%T meter hit full peg. At A & P school we
were required to trim every control surface to manufacturer
specification. That was always "Dead Nuts On". We were instructed to
always recheck after painting. Flutter is an important issue but I
cannot initially accept an unbalanced airfoil as a sound reason for
failure to balance. So I would like to know more about flutter from
balanced surfaces.
Others on the list please speak up and set me straight. Ken Scott, no
need to rehash your Flutter article from the RVator and why more speed
from an RV-10 is going to kill all of us. I am an inquiring mind who
wants more facts. Marcus, please don't take any offence by the query.
"I am looking for a definitive written aeronautical engineering quote
that supports (purely balanced elevators will be prone to flutter)." My
needle is returning to normal now. Thanks for the vent.
John - $00.02
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 4:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator balance
Sean,
Actually, what you have is correct. You don't want them extremely
heavy, but purely balanced elevators will be prone to flutter. In early
my RV-6 you poured in a bunch of lead and then later drilled it out so
as to achieve a slightly tail low condition.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 12:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator balance
I had my EAA Tech Advisor perform an inspection today and he noticed
something interesting that puzzles me too. The elevators are hanging on
the horizontal stabilizer with temporary pins and able to move freely.
They are not yet attached to each other and both of them settle in the
down position even if you manually move them to the up position. I have
rechecked the installation of the counterweights and it appears they are
correct. Is this normal? I thought, and so did my tech advisor, the
elevators would be balanced rather than fall to the down position.
Thanks,
Sean B.
#40225
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin G1000 for aftermarket install? |
In a message dated 2/26/06 8:32:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
GRANSCOTT@aol.com writes:
Nice article in Aviation Consumer about the G 1000 vs. Entegra
I don't know if many have read the article in AC but I found some of the
comments bogus, the writer/reviewer apparently has no time behind either
screen..some of what he wrote is incorrect or biased. Both systems are probably
great and expensive..I'd just believe that there are better and less expensive
systems out there Chelton or the other products.
Patrick Scott
do not archive.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
If you use an extension and coupler you can orient the valve any way
you want. You would be able to rotate the FS20x3 45 degrees and still
have off to the rear, right to the right and left to the left. The
coupler (rotary adapter) consists of two parts each with a female socket
to accept the extruded extension tube. It allows one to orientate the
upper section differently with respect to the lower section. Nuts and
bolts are supplied to clamp each section together in the desired
position. You can see the adapter here
<http://www.andair.co.uk/system/index.html>
If I were to do it again I would get the valve with the new elbow (as
long as it can be rotated to point down) that will connect the flared
tubing for both inlets and the female NPT connection on the bottom. I
got the valve configured with all female NPT fittings because I thought
I would install it just like the stock vans valve. That did not work
out since the Andair valve is larger than the stock vans valves and I
had side wall interference issues.
I do believe connecting the fuel filter and fuel pump will be able to be
accomplished without interferences with the control mechanism. But this
area is tight, with lots of bends. No matter what the configuration
using tubing is going to be challenging. Flex hoses would be a great
solution, but IMHO I would prefer all aircraft grade components in the
installation of the fuel lines.
Larry Rosen
Sean Blair wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
>
>Thanks Tim. Knowing what you know now, would you choose the FS20X3 (180
>degrees) or FS20X7 (45 degrees) based on installation aspects? Also, male
>or female fittings?
>
>Sean B.
>#40225
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Hugo rv10-40456 |
Hugo,
I am flying with a Trio EZ-Pilot single-axis autopilot in my RV-9A. I
don't have anything to compare it to, but it works well and I have
enjoyed using it so far. I saw it at Sun-n-Fun last year as well and
one of the features that I liked about it was the ability to put a
servo deactivate switch on the control stick. Hold the deactivate
switch down and point the plane at a new heading and when you release
the switch it will fly the new heading until you tell it to intercept
the original course.
I have it attached to a switch that lets me choose between the EFIS
and the GPS for control information. With the EFIS I can "steer" the
plane by moving the heading bug.
I have a lot of learning to do with the new system, but so far it has
performed to my expectations.
Regards,
Mike Schipper
RV-9A #90768 - Flying
www.my9a.com
On Feb 26, 2006, at 7:54 PM, <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
<gommone7@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
>
> Hi, Hugo Here,riveting the tail cone.
> Does any body in the field use or intend to use a Trio Avionics AP,
> May be I was a little stupid order one without ask the questions
> first,any good or bad news regarding this product?.
> Las year at Sun&fun I see them,and personally liked,any opinion ?
> Thanks.
> Hugo
Message 7
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Cc: zackrv8 <zackrv8@verizon.net>
--> RV10-List message posted by: sam.marlow@adelphia.net
Can the wing tips be installed before rigging the controls? How do you know where
to position the fiberglass tip faring if the wings have never been installed,
along with the ailerons and flaps? Don't get me wrong, I'm all for painting
first, but have concerns about having to redo the fiberglass tips once installed
on the airplane.
---- zackrv8 <zackrv8@verizon.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
>
>
> sam.marlow wrote:
> > For those of you that have finishd building an RV of any type, can you shed
some light on weather to assemble fully before or after painting?
>
>
> I have to disagree with Carl. I would certainly paint the whole plane before
flying. Here's my reason's...
>
> First, if you paint it yourself or have someone else paint, it will be easier
with the wings off. I highly recommend painting your wings with the wings
off. You mount them vertically you can work on both sides at once. Also, bugs
and dirt won't collect as easily as if the wings were horizontal. Then, if
using a 2 stage paint process, it makes sanding the clearcoat easier.
>
> Second, if you fly your plane and then decide to paint it, you will be without
a plane for awhile. This will drive you crazy! All your buds flying but
not you! You could go into "RV withdraw" symtoms.
>
> Third, the only thing I noticed on my RV8 was paint chipping where the cowl
meets the fuselage. I had too small a clearance and because of airloads and
the hingepin wearing, that nice tight gap I had closed up and chipped the paint.
>
> Just keep the distance from the cowl to the fuselage about the thickness of
a hacksaw blade and you should be fine. As the hingepins wear, the gap will
be enough not to chip your paint.
>
> I can't see any other problems that would preclude you from painting before
flying. Maybe Carl could elaborate more.
>
> Zack
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=15148#15148
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
The flexible hoses are not aircraft grade? I thought you could get flexible
fuel hoses that are?
John Jessen
~328 (on the road and thus not building, darn)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 3:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
If you use an extension and coupler you can orient the valve any way you
want. You would be able to rotate the FS20x3 45 degrees and still have off
to the rear, right to the right and left to the left. The coupler (rotary
adapter) consists of two parts each with a female socket to accept the
extruded extension tube. It allows one to orientate the upper section
differently with respect to the lower section. Nuts and bolts are supplied
to clamp each section together in the desired position. You can see the
adapter here <http://www.andair.co.uk/system/index.html>
If I were to do it again I would get the valve with the new elbow (as long
as it can be rotated to point down) that will connect the flared tubing for
both inlets and the female NPT connection on the bottom. I got the valve
configured with all female NPT fittings because I thought I would install it
just like the stock vans valve. That did not work out since the Andair
valve is larger than the stock vans valves and I had side wall interference
issues.
I do believe connecting the fuel filter and fuel pump will be able to be
accomplished without interferences with the control mechanism. But this
area is tight, with lots of bends. No matter what the configuration using
tubing is going to be challenging. Flex hoses would be a great solution,
but IMHO I would prefer all aircraft grade components in the installation of
the fuel lines.
Larry Rosen
Sean Blair wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Sean Blair" <seanblair@adelphia.net>
>
>Thanks Tim. Knowing what you know now, would you choose the FS20X3 (180
>degrees) or FS20X7 (45 degrees) based on installation aspects? Also,
>male or female fittings?
>
>Sean B.
>#40225
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Elevator Root Rib |
I was afraid you might say that. I can't get my gun in there very well either.
Well, I guess I will order a double offset rivet set and see how well it works.
Thanks.
Also, apparently I don't know which way the airplane goes together......root, tip,
whatever.... :) Now, was I cleared to takeoff on 7 or 25?
"bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net> wrote: v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
.shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} Buck it.
Bob K
Do not archive
---------------------------------
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Moon
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 4:34 PM
To: Matronics RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator Root Rib
All,
I thought this question had been answered, but I could not find it in the archive
search. I am having a real hard time riveting the E-904 tip rib to the
elevator front spar (page 9-14 steo 5). I have a pneumatic squeezer and there
just isn't enough space to get it in there to squeeze. The body of it hits
against the rib and keeps it from squeezing perpendicular to the spar. Does anybody
have any good ideas on this?
--Shawn
40366
---------------------------------
Brings words and photos together (easily) with
---------------------------------
Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Hugo rv10-40456 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
Thanks for the input ,now I'm fill more confortable, yes how you say ,I like the
features they offer,and the most interesting for me ,(without knowing the others
,)was the electrical engagements of the gears,
wich live the gears free from rotation when is not engaged, I like also the quality
of construction and the persons behind it.
Thanks again,Hugo
>
> From: Michael Schipper <mike@learningplanet.com>
> Date: 2006/02/27 Mon PM 12:40:26 EST
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hugo rv10-40456
>
> Hugo,
>
> I am flying with a Trio EZ-Pilot single-axis autopilot in my RV-9A. I
> don't have anything to compare it to, but it works well and I have
> enjoyed using it so far. I saw it at Sun-n-Fun last year as well and
> one of the features that I liked about it was the ability to put a
> servo deactivate switch on the control stick. Hold the deactivate
> switch down and point the plane at a new heading and when you release
> the switch it will fly the new heading until you tell it to intercept
> the original course.
>
> I have it attached to a switch that lets me choose between the EFIS
> and the GPS for control information. With the EFIS I can "steer" the
> plane by moving the heading bug.
>
> I have a lot of learning to do with the new system, but so far it has
> performed to my expectations.
>
> Regards,
> Mike Schipper
> RV-9A #90768 - Flying
> www.my9a.com
>
>
> On Feb 26, 2006, at 7:54 PM, <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
> <gommone7@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
> >
> > Hi, Hugo Here,riveting the tail cone.
> > Does any body in the field use or intend to use a Trio Avionics AP,
> > May be I was a little stupid order one without ask the questions
> > first,any good or bad news regarding this product?.
> > Las year at Sun&fun I see them,and personally liked,any opinion ?
> > Thanks.
> > Hugo
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Elevator balance (retraction) |
John,
Thanks for the tactful BS flag, having done some more research I should
have (as usual) kept my mouth shut and keyboard silent. I reread my
statement and realized I was mixing some memories. Nobody has had to melt
lead into the RV-6, that was my Skybolt so I'm already not doing well
(perhaps I can claim lead poisoning from the experience). So I broke out my
old RV-6 plans and it clearly states to trim the elevator "in trail" so the
tail low part was right out. I found no reference in my old Aero books so
resorted to Google and came across a Tony Bingelis article which confirms
100% pure balanced, or perhaps slightly nose low (opposite of my memory)
depending on the manufacture. Had you not made the question I would have
been permanently convinced I had the right answer and from a credible (but
not sure which) source.
So, lesson learned (again), memory is not 100% reliable and it's best to
double check info before touting some great idea that might negatively
affect safety. Reminds me of the unsubstantiated claim threads about FAR
compliance - sorry.
Also, the do not archive line is a great way to prevent bogus info from
staying in the archives inducing further confusion.
Sean - disregard my previous answer.
Humbly double checking my elevators,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 9:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator balance
Marcus, at first blush my B#$%T meter hit full peg. At A & P school we were
required to trim every control surface to manufacturer specification. That
was always "Dead Nuts On". We were instructed to always recheck after
painting. Flutter is an important issue but I cannot initially accept an
unbalanced airfoil as a sound reason for failure to balance. So I would
like to know more about flutter from balanced surfaces.
Others on the list please speak up and set me straight. Ken Scott, no need
to rehash your Flutter article from the RVator and why more speed from an
RV-10 is going to kill all of us. I am an inquiring mind who wants more
facts. Marcus, please don't take any offence by the query. "I am looking
for a definitive written aeronautical engineering quote that supports
(purely balanced elevators will be prone to flutter)." My needle is
returning to normal now. Thanks for the vent.
John - $00.02
Message 12
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| Subject: | IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question |
Of course, Tim means track, not heading . . . : )
TDT
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Sent: Sun 2/26/2006 9:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I'm not sure of this other than what the Comant tech told me, but...
The GPS/WSI combo antenna I got (should also be same for plain GPS)
doesn't require a ground PLANE, but it does require a ground wire
that runs to the antenna so it has a return path for the active
powered stuff. I don't know if it would perform better with a
ground plane though. I've considered actually putting a ground
plane in, on the inside of the cabin, under the headliner.
I'd do it in a minute if it was required, but right now I'm
trying to fly and see how it goes. So far the GPS is
tracking perfectly. My TruTrak, Chelton, and GNS480 all read
the exact same heading at all times. Great stuff.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I agree that the GPS antenna is so small it's hardly an issue aesthetically.
> I have a question about the ground plane comment though. I have also read
> on the list that the longer the coax the greater the signal loss, which is
> amplified on the WAAS systems. My question is, is it better to accept the
> greater loss and go with a better ground plane by installing it just aft of
> the cabin, or go with min coax and put it at the front of the cabin (per Tim
> Olson) but have no ground plane?
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tim Dawson-Townsend [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
> Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 1:46 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question
>
>
> The GPS is one of the lowest-profile antennas you are going to have, so why
> not install in on the outside, with lots of metal ground plane around it?
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Ok Mr. GPS police....I concurr. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>
> Of course, Tim means track, not heading . . . : )
>
> TDT
> do not archive
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
> Sent: Sun 2/26/2006 9:38 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question
>
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I'm not sure of this other than what the Comant tech told me, but...
> The GPS/WSI combo antenna I got (should also be same for plain GPS)
> doesn't require a ground PLANE, but it does require a ground wire
> that runs to the antenna so it has a return path for the active
> powered stuff. I don't know if it would perform better with a
> ground plane though. I've considered actually putting a ground
> plane in, on the inside of the cabin, under the headliner.
> I'd do it in a minute if it was required, but right now I'm
> trying to fly and see how it goes. So far the GPS is
> tracking perfectly. My TruTrak, Chelton, and GNS480 all read
> the exact same heading at all times. Great stuff.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> I agree that the GPS antenna is so small it's hardly an issue aesthetically.
>> I have a question about the ground plane comment though. I have also read
>> on the list that the longer the coax the greater the signal loss, which is
>> amplified on the WAAS systems. My question is, is it better to accept the
>> greater loss and go with a better ground plane by installing it just aft of
>> the cabin, or go with min coax and put it at the front of the cabin (per Tim
>> Olson) but have no ground plane?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Marcus
>>
>> Do Not Archive
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Tim Dawson-Townsend [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
>> Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
>> Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 1:46 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question
>>
>>
>> The GPS is one of the lowest-profile antennas you are going to have, so why
>> not install in on the outside, with lots of metal ground plane around it?
>>
>> TDT
>> 40025
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ====================================
> ====================================
> ====================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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Cc: <daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
| Subject: | Tough to set rudder rivet |
Probably an old question from a new -10 builder. How do you squeeze or set the
rivet on the lower right side of the rudder (You know the one). I am considering
using a blind rivet on both sides. Anyone? Thanks!
Dave Leikam
#40496
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Tough to set rudder rivet |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Left a red piece of tape over the hole waiting for someone to make a good
sugggestion before I use a blind rivet also.
I even back tracked thnking that these could have been riveted out of
sequence but that wouldn't have worked either.
Waiting!
JG. 409
>From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>CC: <daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: Tough to set rudder rivet
>Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 17:27:36 -0600
>
>Probably an old question from a new -10 builder. How do you squeeze or set
>the rivet on the lower right side of the rudder (You know the one). I am
>considering using a blind rivet on both sides. Anyone? Thanks!
>
>Dave Leikam
>#40496
>
>do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Elevator balance (retraction) |
Cc: Marcus Cooper <coop85@bellsouth.net>
--> RV10-List message posted by: seanblair@adelphia.net
Just to confuse things even more, I just spoke with Scott at Van's about this and
he said it was normal and okay for the elevators to rest in the down position
when unattached to the pushrod. He said with the ten it's not a big deal for
flutterring.
?????????????????????
Thanks for the replies everyone.
Sean B.
#40225
Do Not Archive
---- Marcus Cooper <coop85@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> John,
>
> Thanks for the tactful BS flag, having done some more research I should
> have (as usual) kept my mouth shut and keyboard silent. I reread my
> statement and realized I was mixing some memories. Nobody has had to melt
> lead into the RV-6, that was my Skybolt so I'm already not doing well
> (perhaps I can claim lead poisoning from the experience). So I broke out my
> old RV-6 plans and it clearly states to trim the elevator "in trail" so the
> tail low part was right out. I found no reference in my old Aero books so
> resorted to Google and came across a Tony Bingelis article which confirms
> 100% pure balanced, or perhaps slightly nose low (opposite of my memory)
> depending on the manufacture. Had you not made the question I would have
> been permanently convinced I had the right answer and from a credible (but
> not sure which) source.
>
>
>
> So, lesson learned (again), memory is not 100% reliable and it's best to
> double check info before touting some great idea that might negatively
> affect safety. Reminds me of the unsubstantiated claim threads about FAR
> compliance - sorry.
>
>
>
> Also, the do not archive line is a great way to prevent bogus info from
> staying in the archives inducing further confusion.
>
>
>
> Sean - disregard my previous answer.
>
>
>
> Humbly double checking my elevators,
>
> Marcus
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
> Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 9:16 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator balance
>
>
>
> Marcus, at first blush my B#$%T meter hit full peg. At A & P school we were
> required to trim every control surface to manufacturer specification. That
> was always "Dead Nuts On". We were instructed to always recheck after
> painting. Flutter is an important issue but I cannot initially accept an
> unbalanced airfoil as a sound reason for failure to balance. So I would
> like to know more about flutter from balanced surfaces.
>
>
>
> Others on the list please speak up and set me straight. Ken Scott, no need
> to rehash your Flutter article from the RVator and why more speed from an
> RV-10 is going to kill all of us. I am an inquiring mind who wants more
> facts. Marcus, please don't take any offence by the query. "I am looking
> for a definitive written aeronautical engineering quote that supports
> (purely balanced elevators will be prone to flutter)." My needle is
> returning to normal now. Thanks for the vent.
>
>
>
> John - $00.02
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Tough to set rudder rivet |
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
I used a MK319BS.
PJ
#40032
Dave Leikam wrote:
> Probably an old question from a new -10 builder. How do you squeeze
> or set the rivet on the lower right side of the rudder (You know the
> one). I am considering using a blind rivet on both sides. Anyone?
> Thanks!
>
> Dave Leikam
> #40496
>
> do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Elevator Root Rib |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
You say root rib or tip assembly? Without the plans infront of me (E-904), I
am not certain as to exactly what you are having problems with but, there is
very little space inside to attach the tip assemblies to the front spar.
Even with the bucking bar inside there, becareful it is actually sitting on
the rivet you want bucked. Sometimes once the rivet gets partly compressed
it starts hitting another one or something else.
One word of caution on a challenge you will soon face.
When it comes time to rivet the two rivet holes on the top skin that relate
to the two holes in the skin of the assembly, consider using blind rivets
like the ones used on the bottom two holes in the bottom skin. Difficult
access, can't see the rivets and they are floating in unsupport skins, no
backing. I think it is a test...think about it before you do it. I did.
Kind of like driving a car and saying don't hit that bumper, don't hit that
bumper..oops, I hit the bumper.
Slight filler needed, but someone who was really good wouldn't need any
filler. Sorry to say, Not there yet.
JG.
>From: Shawn Moon <moons1999@yahoo.com>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator Root Rib
>Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 13:34:01 -0800 (PST)
>
>I was afraid you might say that. I can't get my gun in there very well
>either. Well, I guess I will order a double offset rivet set and see how
>well it works. Thanks.
>
>Also, apparently I don't know which way the airplane goes
>together......root, tip, whatever.... :) Now, was I cleared to takeoff on
>7 or 25?
>
>"bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net> wrote: v\:*
>{behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:*
>{behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
> Buck it.
> Bob K
> Do not archive
>
>---------------------------------
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Moon
> Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 4:34 PM
> To: Matronics RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Elevator Root Rib
>
>
> All,
> I thought this question had been answered, but I could not find it in
>the archive search. I am having a real hard time riveting the E-904 tip
>rib to the elevator front spar (page 9-14 steo 5). I have a pneumatic
>squeezer and there just isn't enough space to get it in there to squeeze.
>The body of it hits against the rib and keeps it from squeezing
>perpendicular to the spar. Does anybody have any good ideas on this?
>
> --Shawn
> 40366
>
>---------------------------------
>
> Brings words and photos together (easily) with
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Tough to set rudder rivet |
Hi Dave,
There are a few approaches that work. I took some meat out of the
center of a bucking bar, leaving about a 3/16" thick surface on
either side that I could slide in between the rib flanges... allowing
me to buck the rivet (my tech counselor was quite impressed). I'd
take a picture of it to show you but it's on loan to another builder.
Avery also sells a yoke with a tapered head that will work... but
you're looking at $85.00.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Wings/Forward Leading Edge
On Feb 27, 2006, at 3:27 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
> Probably an old question from a new -10 builder. How do you
> squeeze or set the rivet on the lower right side of the rudder (You
> know the one). I am considering using a blind rivet on both
> sides. Anyone? Thanks!
>
> Dave Leikam
> #40496
>
> do not archive
>
Message 20
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
[quote="sam.marlow"]Can the wing tips be installed before rigging the controls?
How do you know where to position the fiberglass tip faring if the wings have
never been installed, along with the ailerons and flaps? Don't get me wrong,
I'm all for painting first, but have concerns about having to redo the fiberglass
tips once installed on the airplane.
---- zackrv8 wrote:
[quote]
Sam,
The wingtip installation will easier with the wings are off the plane. Here's
the reason....
By installing the wingtips when the wings are off makes the installation easier.
You will be cussing enough working with fiberglass so why not make it easier?
You can work on both sides of the wing tip easy. Plus, by mounting the
wing vertically, the wingtip uses gravity to nest/hold it in positon and the sides
won't sag.
Here's what I did. Have your wings in the cradle or some sort of jig mounted
vertically, trailing edge sticking up. Now mount your flaps and ailerons and
put them in the neutral position as called for in the plans. Now mount your
wingtips. Align the trailing edge of the wingtips with the trailing edges of
the flaps/ailerons. I used a very long straight edge and clamped it on my flaps/ailerons
trailng edges and aligned the tips like that. There. Your done.
No need to re-rig anything. Just hook up your control tubes after the wings
are mounted. Done.
You might want to consider having removable wingtips. Ya never know what you
want to put in there.
Work smarter, not harder.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=18220#18220
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve |
Installed the rest of the fuel system, less the 90 degree elbows to
connect to the fuel valve and less the tubing connecting the flowscan
unit to the firewall forward. I need some more 3/8" tubing. Too much
rework :-) . Web site was updated
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Fuselage/Fuel_lines/index.html>
Small photo attached.
--
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Message 22
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Cc: zackrv8 <zackrv8@verizon.net>
--> RV10-List message posted by: sam.marlow@adelphia.net
Thanks, good info, clears up a lot of questions!
---- zackrv8 <zackrv8@verizon.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
>
> [quote="sam.marlow"]Can the wing tips be installed before rigging the controls?
How do you know where to position the fiberglass tip faring if the wings have
never been installed, along with the ailerons and flaps? Don't get me wrong,
I'm all for painting first, but have concerns about having to redo the fiberglass
tips once installed on the airplane.
> ---- zackrv8 wrote:
> [quote]
>
>
> Sam,
>
> The wingtip installation will easier with the wings are off the plane. Here's
the reason....
>
> By installing the wingtips when the wings are off makes the installation easier.
You will be cussing enough working with fiberglass so why not make it easier?
You can work on both sides of the wing tip easy. Plus, by mounting the
wing vertically, the wingtip uses gravity to nest/hold it in positon and the
sides won't sag.
>
> Here's what I did. Have your wings in the cradle or some sort of jig mounted
vertically, trailing edge sticking up. Now mount your flaps and ailerons and
put them in the neutral position as called for in the plans. Now mount your
wingtips. Align the trailing edge of the wingtips with the trailing edges of
the flaps/ailerons. I used a very long straight edge and clamped it on my flaps/ailerons
trailng edges and aligned the tips like that. There. Your done.
No need to re-rig anything. Just hook up your control tubes after the wings
are mounted. Done.
>
> You might want to consider having removable wingtips. Ya never know what you
want to put in there.
>
> Work smarter, not harder.
>
> Zack
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=18220#18220
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Elevator balance (retraction) |
Marcus, great retraction! Your post and John's $00.02 have sent me scurrying
for the text books yet again! This is what makes this list educational and
interesting. If you'd never made the reply post in the first place I like
many others may never have even pondered the "why is it so"? I'm surprised
that Seans original post wasn't swamped with technical answers, after all
we're all building an aircraft, an although we aren't the design engineers
for the aircraft (presumption), it might hurt not to know, that if your
elevator is doing something different to everyone else then why?
Don't keep your keyboard silent!
John #40315
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Tuesday, 28 February 2006 7:46 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator balance (retraction)
John,
Thanks for the tactful BS flag, having done some more research I should
have (as usual) kept my mouth shut and keyboard silent. I reread my
statement and realized I was mixing some memories. Nobody has had to melt
lead into the RV-6, that was my Skybolt so I'm already not doing well
(perhaps I can claim lead poisoning from the experience). So I broke out my
old RV-6 plans and it clearly states to trim the elevator "in trail" so the
tail low part was right out. I found no reference in my old Aero books so
resorted to Google and came across a Tony Bingelis article which confirms
100% pure balanced, or perhaps slightly nose low (opposite of my memory)
depending on the manufacture. Had you not made the question I would have
been permanently convinced I had the right answer and from a credible (but
not sure which) source.
So, lesson learned (again), memory is not 100% reliable and it's best to
double check info before touting some great idea that might negatively
affect safety. Reminds me of the unsubstantiated claim threads about FAR
compliance - sorry.
Also, the do not archive line is a great way to prevent bogus info from
staying in the archives inducing further confusion.
Sean - disregard my previous answer.
Humbly double checking my elevators,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 9:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator balance
Marcus, at first blush my B#$%T meter hit full peg. At A & P school we were
required to trim every control surface to manufacturer specification. That
was always "Dead Nuts On". We were instructed to always recheck after
painting. Flutter is an important issue but I cannot initially accept an
unbalanced airfoil as a sound reason for failure to balance. So I would
like to know more about flutter from balanced surfaces.
Others on the list please speak up and set me straight. Ken Scott, no need
to rehash your Flutter article from the RVator and why more speed from an
RV-10 is going to kill all of us. I am an inquiring mind who wants more
facts. Marcus, please don't take any offence by the query. "I am looking
for a definitive written aeronautical engineering quote that supports
(purely balanced elevators will be prone to flutter)." My needle is
returning to normal now. Thanks for the vent.
John - $00.02
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Tough to set rudder rivet |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
Dave, I was shown how to use a thin nose yoke that was ground down a fraction of
an inch. Using this I was able to squeeze the first rivet without a problem.
For the other side it took two of us, one to squeeze the rivet and one to flex
the spar just a hair. I was able to get the very edge of the yoke in the gap
and used the edge of a wide flush set on the manufactured head. I would squeeze
the rivet a hair and as it set I was able to get the yoke farther in the gap,
until I was able to fully set the rivet. Sounds more painful than it was. The
hard part will be finding the yoke.
Eric Kallio
40518
Tailcone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=18243#18243
Message 25
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| Subject: | Elevator Root Rib |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
Message 26
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| Subject: | Elevator balance (retraction) |
Glad some more detail was added to the mix. It is too bad that the
issue of flutter and that of control balancing are not better handled
for all of the RV-10 builders. The standard mantra is that the factory
says, "Balancing the controls is not necessary". For your education and
the rest of the list, the process should be presented, discussed and
then dismissed if not determined to be required on an individual basis.
It is not a bad thing to know and important if you go overboard with
three final coats of color and a coat of clear to protect, multi-colored
stripes. I think they meant to say if you apply 4-10mil of topcoat, we
hope you don't need to balance your control surfaces. Too much lead,
too little lead, too much paint weight and the skill set becomes more
valuable.
I assume the rest of the builders were already up to speed and needed no
comments.
John
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 1:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator balance (retraction)
John,
Thanks for the tactful BS flag, having done some more research I
should have (as usual) kept my mouth shut and keyboard silent. I reread
my statement and realized I was mixing some memories. Nobody has had to
melt lead into the RV-6, that was my Skybolt so I'm already not doing
well (perhaps I can claim lead poisoning from the experience). So I
broke out my old RV-6 plans and it clearly states to trim the elevator
"in trail" so the tail low part was right out. I found no reference in
my old Aero books so resorted to Google and came across a Tony Bingelis
article which confirms 100% pure balanced, or perhaps slightly nose low
(opposite of my memory) depending on the manufacture. Had you not made
the question I would have been permanently convinced I had the right
answer and from a credible (but not sure which) source.
So, lesson learned (again), memory is not 100% reliable and it's best to
double check info before touting some great idea that might negatively
affect safety. Reminds me of the unsubstantiated claim threads about
FAR compliance - sorry.
Also, the do not archive line is a great way to prevent bogus info from
staying in the archives inducing further confusion.
Sean - disregard my previous answer.
Humbly double checking my elevators,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 9:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator balance
Marcus, at first blush my B#$%T meter hit full peg. At A & P school we
were required to trim every control surface to manufacturer
specification. That was always "Dead Nuts On". We were instructed to
always recheck after painting. Flutter is an important issue but I
cannot initially accept an unbalanced airfoil as a sound reason for
failure to balance. So I would like to know more about flutter from
balanced surfaces.
Others on the list please speak up and set me straight. Ken Scott, no
need to rehash your Flutter article from the RVator and why more speed
from an RV-10 is going to kill all of us. I am an inquiring mind who
wants more facts. Marcus, please don't take any offence by the query.
"I am looking for a definitive written aeronautical engineering quote
that supports (purely balanced elevators will be prone to flutter)." My
needle is returning to normal now. Thanks for the vent.
John - $00.02
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Tough to set rudder rivet - Did it! |
I drilled out the AN470AD4-4 rivet closest to the trailing edge of the rudder holding
the R-1004A and B together. Rivet tape to hold the rivet in place, upside
down now. I then had my son Tyler (AKA co-pilot) hold the R-1004A away enough
to squeeze the rivet with a thin nose yoke. Then re-rivet the R-1004A and
B. Building is so much fun!
Thanks for the other suggestions.
Dave Leikam
#40496
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tough to set rudder rivet
Hi Dave,
There are a few approaches that work. I took some meat out of the center of
a bucking bar, leaving about a 3/16" thick surface on either side that I could
slide in between the rib flanges... allowing me to buck the rivet (my tech counselor
was quite impressed). I'd take a picture of it to show you but it's on
loan to another builder.
Avery also sells a yoke with a tapered head that will work... but you're looking
at $85.00.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Wings/Forward Leading Edge
On Feb 27, 2006, at 3:27 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
Probably an old question from a new -10 builder. How do you squeeze or set
the rivet on the lower right side of the rudder (You know the one). I am considering
using a blind rivet on both sides. Anyone? Thanks!
Dave Leikam
#40496
do not archive
Message 28
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| Subject: | Tough to set rudder rivet - Did it! |
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Leikam
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 7:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tough to set rudder rivet - Did it!
I drilled out the AN470AD4-4 rivet closest to the trailing edge of the rudder holding
the R-1004A and B together. Rivet tape to hold the rivet in place, upside
down now. I then had my son Tyler (AKA co-pilot) hold the R-1004A away enough
to squeeze the rivet with a thin nose yoke. Then re-rivet the R-1004A and
B. Building is so much fun!
Thanks for the other suggestions.
Dave Leikam
#40496
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tough to set rudder rivet
Hi Dave,
There are a few approaches that work. I took some meat out of the center of
a bucking bar, leaving about a 3/16" thick surface on either side that I could
slide in between the rib flanges... allowing me to buck the rivet (my tech counselor
was quite impressed). I'd take a picture of it to show you but it's on
loan to another builder.
Avery also sells a yoke with a tapered head that will work... but you're looking
at $85.00.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Wings/Forward Leading Edge
On Feb 27, 2006, at 3:27 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
Probably an old question from a new -10 builder. How do you squeeze or set
the rivet on the lower right side of the rudder (You know the one). I am considering
using a blind rivet on both sides. Anyone? Thanks!
Dave Leikam
#40496
do not archive
Message 29
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| Subject: | Tough to set rudder rivet - Did it! |
I drilled out the AN470AD4-4 rivet closest to the trailing edge of the rudder holding
the R-1004A and B together. Rivet tape to hold the rivet in place, upside
down now. I then had my son Tyler (AKA co-pilot) hold the R-1004A away enough
to squeeze the rivet with a thin nose yoke. Then re-rivet the R-1004A and
B. Building is so much fun!
Thanks for the other suggestions.
Dave Leikam
#40496
do not archive
Message 30
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| Subject: | Elevator balance (retraction) |
Have you had a chance to test if the elevators sag with all controls hooked
up? In helicopters, the cyclics are balanced so they are neutral. Take the
non-flying side out and the bias spring can't overcome the c.g. shift, and
the remaining cyclic will fall one way or the other depending on rigging.
Maybe the elevators will stay in a more neutral position with all controls
(and their attendant weights) installed.
Oh, just theory anyway since I'm nowhere near complete.
Rob
#392
Emp Attach
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 3:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator balance (retraction)
John,
Thanks for the tactful BS flag, having done some more research I should
have (as usual) kept my mouth shut and keyboard silent. I reread my
statement and realized I was mixing some memories. Nobody has had to melt
lead into the RV-6, that was my Skybolt so I'm already not doing well
(perhaps I can claim lead poisoning from the experience). So I broke out my
old RV-6 plans and it clearly states to trim the elevator "in trail" so the
tail low part was right out. I found no reference in my old Aero books so
resorted to Google and came across a Tony Bingelis article which confirms
100% pure balanced, or perhaps slightly nose low (opposite of my memory)
depending on the manufacture. Had you not made the question I would have
been permanently convinced I had the right answer and from a credible (but
not sure which) source.
So, lesson learned (again), memory is not 100% reliable and it's best to
double check info before touting some great idea that might negatively
affect safety. Reminds me of the unsubstantiated claim threads about FAR
compliance - sorry.
Also, the do not archive line is a great way to prevent bogus info from
staying in the archives inducing further confusion.
Sean - disregard my previous answer.
Humbly double checking my elevators,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 9:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator balance
Marcus, at first blush my B#$%T meter hit full peg. At A & P school we were
required to trim every control surface to manufacturer specification. That
was always "Dead Nuts On". We were instructed to always recheck after
painting. Flutter is an important issue but I cannot initially accept an
unbalanced airfoil as a sound reason for failure to balance. So I would
like to know more about flutter from balanced surfaces.
Others on the list please speak up and set me straight. Ken Scott, no need
to rehash your Flutter article from the RVator and why more speed from an
RV-10 is going to kill all of us. I am an inquiring mind who wants more
facts. Marcus, please don't take any offence by the query. "I am looking
for a definitive written aeronautical engineering quote that supports
(purely balanced elevators will be prone to flutter)." My needle is
returning to normal now. Thanks for the vent.
John - $00.02
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