Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:04 AM - Re: Elevator balance (EFDsteve@aol.com)
2. 06:32 AM - I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you do? (Jeff Dalton)
3. 07:11 AM - Re: Tough to set rudder rivet - Did it! (jwik)
4. 07:33 AM - Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you do? (John Jessen)
5. 07:40 AM - Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you do? (John Gonzalez)
6. 09:28 AM - Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you (bruce breckenridge)
7. 10:13 AM - Re: Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you (Jeff Dalton)
8. 10:14 AM - Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you do? (rob kermanj)
9. 10:46 AM - Re: Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you ()
10. 10:50 AM - Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you do? (John Gonzalez)
11. 11:16 AM - Re: Tough to set rudder rivet (William)
12. 11:18 AM - Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you do? (John Gonzalez)
13. 12:44 PM - Re: Re: Tough to set rudder rivet (Jeff Carpenter)
14. 01:27 PM - Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you do? (Brian Sponcil)
15. 01:48 PM - Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you do? (John)
16. 01:52 PM - Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you do? (McGANN, Ron)
17. 02:24 PM - Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you do? (John Jessen)
18. 03:32 PM - Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you do? (Nikolaos Napoli)
19. 03:41 PM - Re: Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you (McGANN, Ron)
20. 08:57 PM - RV-10 Rudder Hinge Bracket Doubler Modification - What's Involved (Patrick Pulis)
21. 08:58 PM - elevator trim tab hardware (Robert G. Wright)
22. 11:07 PM - Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you do? (Rick)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator balance |
My first aborted attempt at aircraft building was the GP-4, an all wood
2-seater that allegedly cruises at 240 knots. On that plane, the designer
insists that the control surfaces be perfectly balanced, to the point that after
painting, holes were drilled into the lead counter balances to achieve the
balance. For what it's worth.
Steve Weinstock
40230
Message 2
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| Subject: | I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you |
do?
So I have this friend who is building an RV-10 ....
His helper did a perfect job on the trailing edge - perfectly straight. The shop
heads of the rivets are in the countesrunk hole, very consistent and look great.
The manufactured head of the rivets .... are ROUND. Yes, he put in universal
rivets instead of countersunk rivets. Worse yet, the rivets are -4, not
-3. In other words, the holes are already drilled out with a #30 bit.
Would you risk overdrilling the holes, drill out all the rivets, and replacing
them with flush rivets, or would you leave it (it looks fine) OR would you re-do
the entire rudder?
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Tough to set rudder rivet - Did it! |
I am at that same point with no thin nose yoke. Was considering an
approach like shown on this builders tip for dimplinge and setting
rivets in those hard to reach places.
http://www.experimentalaero.com/Builders%20Tips.htm
Dave Leikam wrote:
> I drilled out the AN470AD4-4 rivet closest to the trailing edge of the
> rudder holding the R-1004A and B together. Rivet tape to hold the
> rivet in place, upside down now. I then had my son Tyler (AKA
> co-pilot) hold the R-1004A away enough to squeeze the rivet with a
> thin nose yoke. Then re-rivet the R-1004A and B. Building is so much
> fun!
> Thanks for the other suggestions.
>
> Dave Leikam
> #40496
>
> do not archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Jeff Carpenter <mailto:jeff@westcottpress.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, February 27, 2006 6:08 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Tough to set rudder rivet
>
> Hi Dave,
>
> There are a few approaches that work. I took some meat out of the
> center of a bucking bar, leaving about a 3/16" thick surface on
> either side that I could slide in between the rib flanges...
> allowing me to buck the rivet (my tech counselor was quite
> impressed). I'd take a picture of it to show you but it's on loan
> to another builder.
>
> Avery also sells a yoke with a tapered head that will work... but
> you're looking at $85.00.
>
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> Wings/Forward Leading Edge
>
>
> On Feb 27, 2006, at 3:27 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
>
>> Probably an old question from a new -10 builder. How do you
>> squeeze or set the rivet on the lower right side of the rudder
>> (You know the one). I am considering using a blind rivet on both
>> sides. Anyone? Thanks!
>>
>> Dave Leikam
>> #40496
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you do?
Other than looks, I doubt it'd make a difference. I'd call Van's and
verify, then if no difference, leave it. On the other hand, I'm probably
going to rebuild my VS because I hammered on it so hard that it looks like I
used it in a destruction derby.
John Jessen
~328 (and one who has no knowledge really about such things, but that
would be my .02 worth.)
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dalton
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 9:30 AM
Subject: RV10-List: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would
you do?
So I have this friend who is building an RV-10 ....
His helper did a perfect job on the trailing edge - perfectly straight. The
shop heads of the rivets are in the countesrunk hole, very consistent and
look great. The manufactured head of the rivets .... are ROUND. Yes, he
put in universal rivets instead of countersunk rivets. Worse yet, the
rivets are -4, not -3. In other words, the holes are already drilled out
with a #30 bit.
Would you risk overdrilling the holes, drill out all the rivets, and
replacing them with flush rivets, or would you leave it (it looks fine) OR
would you re-do the entire rudder?
Message 5
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| Subject: | I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you do?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Is this a joke? Sorry! Maybe a mental exercise.
I can't wait to hear John's (0.02) about this one.
The size of the rivets in the thin skin is perhaps the biggest issue. After
that, if using 470 rivets with the manufactured head sticking out of only
one side, each one should have been reversed in direction to counteract the
air deflection off the proud manufactured heads. There are several older
planes that have rivets the size of marbles sticking out of their skins, but
not an RV. I guess you could use the rudder as a drag/dive brake.
With that said, chock it up to experience, practice and do it again, it will
only come out better each time you do it over. You got to set a high
standard from the start. It is kinda fun anyway.
Just my thoughts.
Do not archive.
Jg.
>From: "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77@comcast.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would
>you do?
>Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 09:29:56 -0500
>
>So I have this friend who is building an RV-10 ....
>
>His helper did a perfect job on the trailing edge - perfectly straight.
>The shop heads of the rivets are in the countesrunk hole, very consistent
>and look great. The manufactured head of the rivets .... are ROUND. Yes,
>he put in universal rivets instead of countersunk rivets. Worse yet, the
>rivets are -4, not -3. In other words, the holes are already drilled out
>with a #30 bit.
>
>Would you risk overdrilling the holes, drill out all the rivets, and
>replacing them with flush rivets, or would you leave it (it looks fine) OR
>would you re-do the entire rudder?
Message 6
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| Subject: | re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you
"Worse yet, the rivets are -4, not -3. In other words, the holes are
already drilled out with a #30 bit."
I haven't crossed this bridge yet, but what about the OOPS rivets?
Countersunk head, #30 shaft, a possibility? Maybe the drilled out hole
would be too big, but it might be worth trying it on one rivet to see how
it looks. My one question: are the countersinks for #30 as well?
Bruce
40018
elevators
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you
I have some oops rivets. I'm just nervous about drilling out the -4's and making
the hole too big.
----- Original Message -----
From: bruce breckenridge
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 12:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would
you
"Worse yet, the rivets are -4, not -3. In other words, the holes are already
drilled out with a #30 bit."
I haven't crossed this bridge yet, but what about the OOPS rivets? Countersunk
head, #30 shaft, a possibility? Maybe the drilled out hole would be too big,
but it might be worth trying it on one rivet to see how it looks. My one
question: are the countersinks for #30 as well?
Bruce
40018
elevators
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you do?
I would leave it if it looks OK, you have enough edge distance and do
not mind the RV10 ramp inspectors at air shows.
Do not archive
rob kermanj
rv10es@earthlink.net
On Feb 28, 2006, at 9:29 AM, Jeff Dalton wrote:
> So I have this friend who is building an RV-10 ....
>
> His helper did a perfect job on the trailing edge - perfectly
> straight. The shop heads of the rivets are in the countesrunk
> hole, very consistent and look great. The manufactured head of the
> rivets .... are ROUND. Yes, he put in universal rivets instead of
> countersunk rivets. Worse yet, the rivets are -4, not -3. In
> other words, the holes are already drilled out with a #30 bit.
>
> Would you risk overdrilling the holes, drill out all the rivets,
> and replacing them with flush rivets, or would you leave it (it
> looks fine) OR would you re-do the entire rudder?
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gommone7@bellsouth.net>
> If I'm you I will leave as it is,you will have plenty of time to re do the rudder,any
way you can't go 200 mph in the testing time,after is all done and you
flying ,order another one and build it.thats probably one of the low cost parts
in the plane,and the easiest to replace.
My opinion
Hugo
> From: "bruce breckenridge" <bbreckenridge@gmail.com>
Message 10
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| Subject: | I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you do?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
First and foremost I do not want to sound too harsh with my original
comment...I am sorry.
Here is the deal the way I see it.
If you are not the designer or a aeronautical engineer why would you change
the recipe? All this stuff(DOUBTS) we do not have a definitive answer. YOu
are only a test pilot to some degree, as other have mostly the same plane,
but yours now with the modification will be different, so you can throw away
the test flights of all others and all the experience of other who continue
to fly.
So when you are flying your new RV 10 and hopefully you are in tuned to what
you hear and what you feel, your plane sounds different or feels
different...what will your mind do. Hopefully it will try to figure out
what is going on. Now add on all the little steps you skipped, the
directions you did not follow, the things you could have done better. Now
add all those things into you figuring. Overload, worse, you freeze. You
make a bad decision or you put it down in an unfriendly area or make a bad
landing because you are overwhelmed.
This is a no brainer.
Minimize the potential conflicts.
JG.
Do Not Archive
>From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what
>would you do?
>Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 07:39:54 -0800
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>Is this a joke? Sorry! Maybe a mental exercise.
>
>
>I can't wait to hear John's (0.02) about this one.
>
>The size of the rivets in the thin skin is perhaps the biggest issue.
>After that, if using 470 rivets with the manufactured head sticking out of
>only one side, each one should have been reversed in direction to
>counteract the air deflection off the proud manufactured heads. There are
>several older planes that have rivets the size of marbles sticking out of
>their skins, but not an RV. I guess you could use the rudder as a
>drag/dive brake.
>
>With that said, chock it up to experience, practice and do it again, it
>will only come out better each time you do it over. You got to set a high
>standard from the start. It is kinda fun anyway.
>
>Just my thoughts.
>
>Do not archive.
>
>Jg.
>
>
>>From: "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77@comcast.net>
>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: RV10-List: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would
>>you do?
>>Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 09:29:56 -0500
>>
>>So I have this friend who is building an RV-10 ....
>>
>>His helper did a perfect job on the trailing edge - perfectly straight.
>>The shop heads of the rivets are in the countesrunk hole, very consistent
>>and look great. The manufactured head of the rivets .... are ROUND. Yes,
>>he put in universal rivets instead of countersunk rivets. Worse yet, the
>>rivets are -4, not -3. In other words, the holes are already drilled out
>>with a #30 bit.
>>
>>Would you risk overdrilling the holes, drill out all the rivets, and
>>replacing them with flush rivets, or would you leave it (it looks fine) OR
>>would you re-do the entire rudder?
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 11
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Cc: jeff@westcottpress.com
| Subject: | Re: Tough to set rudder rivet |
>How do you squeeze or set the rivet on the lower right side of
>the rudder (You know the one).
>...
>
>Dave Leikam
>#40496
Used the 15000 bucking bar at the below link:
http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=380&Category=74
The small pointed end is great for tight spaces.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Message 12
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| Subject: | I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you do?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
I forgot the issue of them being countersunk holes with non matching rivets.
You can drill out each rivet perfectly, but the thin skin has expanded
around the oversize rivets..it took more energy to crush them. You guys are
really worrying me.
WE had an accident sometime ago in the gliding community. It dealt with a
pilot losing elevator control. It turned out that the tape holding the
mylar gap seal had peeled up and caused the airflow to seperate enough so
that the air did not come back down on the elevator, rendering it
ineffective. We fly with parachuttes, but he wasn't high enough to use it.
That is how a simple issue can have huge implications. This doesn't seem
simple to me.
This is troubling...you guys are flying over my house. I need to first get
a TFR over my home and then go for a permanent flight restriction. Maybe a
concrete dome embrella. And I was wondering whether this was a joke.
Call Van's but talk to a designer not builders support.
JG.
>From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what
>would you do?
>Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 07:39:54 -0800
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>Is this a joke? Sorry! Maybe a mental exercise.
>
>
>I can't wait to hear John's (0.02) about this one.
>
>The size of the rivets in the thin skin is perhaps the biggest issue.
>After that, if using 470 rivets with the manufactured head sticking out of
>only one side, each one should have been reversed in direction to
>counteract the air deflection off the proud manufactured heads. There are
>several older planes that have rivets the size of marbles sticking out of
>their skins, but not an RV. I guess you could use the rudder as a
>drag/dive brake.
>
>With that said, chock it up to experience, practice and do it again, it
>will only come out better each time you do it over. You got to set a high
>standard from the start. It is kinda fun anyway.
>
>Just my thoughts.
>
>Do not archive.
>
>Jg.
>
>
>>From: "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77@comcast.net>
>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: RV10-List: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would
>>you do?
>>Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 09:29:56 -0500
>>
>>So I have this friend who is building an RV-10 ....
>>
>>His helper did a perfect job on the trailing edge - perfectly straight.
>>The shop heads of the rivets are in the countesrunk hole, very consistent
>>and look great. The manufactured head of the rivets .... are ROUND. Yes,
>>he put in universal rivets instead of countersunk rivets. Worse yet, the
>>rivets are -4, not -3. In other words, the holes are already drilled out
>>with a #30 bit.
>>
>>Would you risk overdrilling the holes, drill out all the rivets, and
>>replacing them with flush rivets, or would you leave it (it looks fine) OR
>>would you re-do the entire rudder?
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Tough to set rudder rivet |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
That bar, without some modification, will not fit that space.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Feb 28, 2006, at 11:15 AM, William wrote:
> >How do you squeeze or set the rivet on the lower right side of
> >the rudder (You know the one).
> >...
> >
> >Dave Leikam
> >#40496
>
> Used the 15000 bucking bar at the below link:
> http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?
> action=ViewDetails&ItemID=380&Category=74
>
> The small pointed end is great for tight spaces.
> William Curtis
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you do?
I'd call Vans to see what they say before you go rebuilding the rudder.
I'm guessing that having 470s on the trailing edge won't make much of a difference.
Have you ever taken a look at a DC-3? There are round rivet heads ALL OVER
that thing. I realize they aren't the same but still.....
Post Vans reply if you call....
-Brian
N211BD
#40497
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Dalton
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 8:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you
do?
So I have this friend who is building an RV-10 ....
His helper did a perfect job on the trailing edge - perfectly straight. The
shop heads of the rivets are in the countesrunk hole, very consistent and look
great. The manufactured head of the rivets .... are ROUND. Yes, he put in universal
rivets instead of countersunk rivets. Worse yet, the rivets are -4,
not -3. In other words, the holes are already drilled out with a #30 bit.
Would you risk overdrilling the holes, drill out all the rivets, and replacing
them with flush rivets, or would you leave it (it looks fine) OR would you re-do
the entire rudder?
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you do?
What I tend to find, is any un-intentional deviation from the plans tends to nag
at you. It's an uncertainty and therefore erosion of confidence. Not something
I like in the back of my mind when I go flying, whether a minor issue or major
issue it's all cumulative in the end. JG's point, "I forgot the issue of
them being countersunk holes with non matching rivets.
You can drill out each rivet perfectly, but the thin skin has expanded
around the oversize rivets..it took more energy to crush them" is a very good reason
to replace.
John 40315
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Dalton
To: rv10-list@muatronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 12:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you
do?
So I have this friend who is building an RV-10 ....
His helper did a perfect job on the trailing edge - perfectly straight. The
shop heads of the rivets are in the countesrunk hole, very consistent and look
great. The manufactured head of the rivets .... are ROUND. Yes, he put in universal
rivets instead of countersunk rivets. Worse yet, the rivets are -4,
not -3. In other words, the holes are already drilled out with a #30 bit.
Would you risk overdrilling the holes, drill out all the rivets, and replacing
them with flush rivets, or would you leave it (it looks fine) OR would you re-do
the entire rudder?
Message 16
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| Subject: | I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you do?
Not sure whether this post is serious . . .
But if it is, put the rudder aside. Start work on the rest of the kit, there is
plenty to do. As you gain more experience, mull over it for a while and come
to fully understand the cost of a rudder in the grander scheme of things, you
will come to a conclusion that you are happy with. This is not a problem you
need to solve today.
As John says, just $0.146 worth - Ozzy exchange rate ;-<
cheers,
Ron
Riveting fuse side skins.
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Dalton
Sent: Wednesday, 1 March 2006 1:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you
do?
So I have this friend who is building an RV-10 ....
His helper did a perfect job on the trailing edge - perfectly straight. The shop
heads of the rivets are in the countesrunk hole, very consistent and look great.
The manufactured head of the rivets .... are ROUND. Yes, he put in universal
rivets instead of countersunk rivets. Worse yet, the rivets are -4, not
-3. In other words, the holes are already drilled out with a #30 bit.
Would you risk overdrilling the holes, drill out all the rivets, and replacing
them with flush rivets, or would you leave it (it looks fine) OR would you re-do
the entire rudder?
Message 17
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| Subject: | I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you do?
This is the best advice from all of us, but do call Van's. I'm sure they'll
give the standard "just move on" statement.
I suspect, as Ron is implying, that when you are whipping out the parts
towards the end, the rudder will look dead simple and you'll come back to it
knowing what you want. I know that I'll rebuild my VS since I now know so
much more about building, am much more skilled and can see doing that piece
over two or three long days, instead of the month it took me at first. The
rudder is a little more complex, but it might beat getting RV-10 builder
snickers at OSH. Or, you could turn it into the latest speed mod. You
know, reverse dimples in golf balls! Something like that.
John Jessen
~328 (Master Builder Self Designate)
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 4:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what
would you do?
Not sure whether this post is serious . . .
But if it is, put the rudder aside. Start work on the rest of the kit,
there is plenty to do. As you gain more experience, mull over it for a
while and come to fully understand the cost of a rudder in the grander
scheme of things, you will come to a conclusion that you are happy with.
This is not a problem you need to solve today.
As John says, just $0.146 worth - Ozzy exchange rate ;-<
cheers,
Ron
Riveting fuse side skins.
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Dalton
Sent: Wednesday, 1 March 2006 1:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would
you do?
So I have this friend who is building an RV-10 ....
His helper did a perfect job on the trailing edge - perfectly straight. The
shop heads of the rivets are in the countesrunk hole, very consistent and
look great. The manufactured head of the rivets .... are ROUND. Yes, he
put in universal rivets instead of countersunk rivets. Worse yet, the
rivets are -4, not -3. In other words, the holes are already drilled out
with a #30 bit.
Would you risk overdrilling the holes, drill out all the rivets, and
replacing them with flush rivets, or would you leave it (it looks fine) OR
would you re-do the entire rudder?
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you do?
Jeff,
I don't see the #4 rivet size as being a problem, however, the universal head in
a countersunk hole is a problem. It reduces the bearing area to practically
nothing as the rivet can't fill the countersunk hole.
I suggest drilling out the holes. If the results don't look good than order new
parts.
Niko
40188
----- Original Message ----
From: Jeff Dalton <jdalton77@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 9:29:56 AM
Subject: RV10-List: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you
do?
So I have this friend who is building an RV-10 ....
His helper did a perfect job on the trailing edge - perfectly straight. The shop
heads of the rivets are in the countesrunk hole, very consistent and look great.
The manufactured head of the rivets .... are ROUND. Yes, he put in universal
rivets instead of countersunk rivets. Worse yet, the rivets are -4, not
-3. In other words, the holes are already drilled out with a #30 bit.
Would you risk overdrilling the holes, drill out all the rivets, and replacing
them with flush rivets, or would you leave it (it looks fine) OR would you re-do
the entire rudder?
Message 19
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| Subject: | re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you
Tip du jour:
Avery have a Universal Head rivet removal tool (Part # 40053). I received mine
a few weeks ago and have used it to remove only a handful of rivets so far.
Although fairly pricey @ $75, I reckon it's invaluable. Builders starting out
will find setting 1/8" universal head rivets hard enough, removing them without
enlarging or totally destroying the hole can be even harder. This tool perfectly
centres the drill bit and sets the correct drill depth, the head snaps
off easily, and with a little backing support the rivet shank drives out with
a punch. The result is a hole that is as good as the original, enlarged only
by the expansion of the rivet when first set.
If you have a large number of universal head rivets to remove, like perhaps on
your trailing edge, or frequently remove dud uni head rivets, this tool is a godsend.
cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Dalton
Sent: Wednesday, 1 March 2006 4:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would
you
I have some oops rivets. I'm just nervous about drilling out the -4's and making
the hole too big.
----- Original Message -----
From: bruce <mailto:bbreckenridge@gmail.com> breckenridge
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 12:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would
you
"Worse yet, the rivets are -4, not -3. In other words, the holes are already drilled
out with a #30 bit."
I haven't crossed this bridge yet, but what about the OOPS rivets? Countersunk
head, #30 shaft, a possibility? Maybe the drilled out hole would be too big,
but it might be worth trying it on one rivet to see how it looks. My one question:
are the countersinks for #30 as well?
Bruce
40018
elevators
Message 20
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| Subject: | RV-10 Rudder Hinge Bracket Doubler Modification - What's Involved |
Can anyone please tell me if they have installed the Vertical Stabiliser
doubler which is being issued by Vans, and if there are any traps. As
yet us 'southerners' on Oz haven't received the doubler.
I have read the AD and am a little concerned about match drilling the
doubler into the rear spar from the inside, most likely using the 90
degree drill, bearing in mind that the top rib will still be partly
fixed in place.
Your experience would be appreciated please.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
> PATRICK PULIS
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | elevator trim tab hardware |
After fitting my clevis pins to the trim tab horns, I noticed that I'll not
be able to get all three washers on that the plans call for and still insert
the cotter pin. I figure that should be okay, as there'll be no play in the
system. Reason why I'm asking instead of just going ahead is that Van's has
been pretty good at stating Maximum or Minimum of ## washers if you're
allowed wiggle room. Any one handy to their airplane that's seen this and
has a fix?
Of course I could be reading the plans wrong, but I see them as stating that
all the washers go outside the horn tabs. I have no pic yet.
Rob #392
Emp attach
Message 22
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| Subject: | I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you do?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
I once read in EAA's magazine "Sport Aviation" a quote I recite every time I make
a mistake.
"It's OK to make mistakes, that's a normal part of building, It's not a normal
part of building to disregard it and not correct them".
As you progress through this process you will make mistakes, in order to offset
that knot that occurs in your stomach when you do screw something up you need
to untie the knot by backing up and fixing your mistake I.A.W. the plans/designer/expert
intentions.
When I first read this post this morning I thought it was a joke as well. My first
knee jerk response was to advice your "friend" to call Cirrus and arrange
for a demo flight and reconsider building...that was a mean spirited thought
:)
My advice? Rebuild the rudder, but wait a few in a few months. You won't drill
out all those rivets without rounding out too many the holes in the ribs, skins
and trailing edge. Attend an EAA meeting and bring the rudder for show and tell.
It will make you feel a lot better after everyone tells you that's nuthin....you
should see what I did once...
Rick S.
40185
Finishing
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