Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:32 AM - Re: fuel selector Andair (Mike Kraus)
2. 07:33 AM - Re: Mid Fuse Rib Dimples (Evan and Megan Johnson)
3. 08:50 AM - RG400 Coax Stripper ()
4. 09:25 AM - Re: fuel selector Andair (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
5. 10:25 AM - Mid Fuse Rib Dimples (Albert Gardner)
6. 11:33 AM - Re: fuel selector Andair (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
7. 11:33 AM - Re: RG400 Coax Stripper (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
8. 12:32 PM - "Fighter Pilot Experience" (Jeff Carpenter)
9. 01:08 PM - Re: "Fighter Pilot Experience" (Sean Stephens)
10. 03:07 PM - Re: RG400 Coax Stripper (Larry Rosen)
11. 05:42 PM - Cabin Heat Cable Wire Nuts (Marcus Cooper)
12. 05:53 PM - Paint Scheme (Marcus Cooper)
13. 06:21 PM - Re: Paint Scheme (John W. Cox)
14. 06:21 PM - First Flight (Debbie Dewey)
15. 06:24 PM - Re: Cabin Heat Cable Wire Nuts (Larry Rosen)
16. 06:33 PM - Re: RG400 Coax Stripper (Larry Rosen)
17. 06:58 PM - Re: Cabin Heat Cable Wire Nuts (Tim Olson)
18. 07:00 PM - Re: Paint Scheme (Tim Olson)
19. 07:00 PM - Re: First Flight (Marcus Cooper)
20. 07:02 PM - Re: First Flight (Tim Olson)
21. 07:08 PM - Re: First Flight (Mike Howe)
22. 07:10 PM - Re: Paint Scheme (Marcus Cooper)
23. 07:35 PM - Re: fuel selector Andair (Steven DiNieri)
24. 07:45 PM - Re: Paint Scheme (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
25. 07:53 PM - Elevator Trailing Edge (Shawn Moon)
26. 07:59 PM - Re: Elevator Trailing Edge (McGANN, Ron)
27. 08:07 PM - Re: Elevator Trailing Edge (Sean Stephens)
28. 08:08 PM - Re: Elevator Trailing Edge (Deems Davis)
29. 08:52 PM - Re: First Flight (Larry Rosen)
30. 08:53 PM - Re: Elevator Trailing Edge (Larry Rosen)
31. 08:59 PM - Re: Elevator Trailing Edge (Tim Olson)
32. 09:09 PM - Re: Cabin Heat Cable Wire Nuts (DejaVu)
33. 10:16 PM - Re: First Flight (John Dunne)
Message 1
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| Subject: | fuel selector Andair |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
Dave -
Are you sure this will fit in your tunnel? Install the 90 degree
fittings and then the rudder cables and fuel lines, I think you will
find there is not enough room for everything. I did the same type
installation as you did, but moved the valve forward in the tunnel
approximately in line with the exit of the rudder cables to the rudder
pedals. Much more room up there and no issue with the cables rubbing
the fuel lines....
-Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 1:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: fuel selector Andair
Have included pictures what we have done to install Andair valve as
supplied
by Vans and also solve the removal problem of the forward tunnel cover.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Mid Fuse Rib Dimples |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Albert, you seem to have it right to me except for the #30 holes in
F-1015A. They do not get dimpled at all the way I read it. See page 29-15
for the skin layout. I'm glad I looked at this as it would seem also that
the 3 holes behind the rear spar carry through-in the same row (in F-1018)
do get dimpled. I don't see those on your picture, you may want to look at
the side skin... I'm pretty sure you match drill those through the skin..
Cheers..
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@adelphia.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 3:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Mid Fuse Rib Dimples
> I'm about to rivet the Mid Fuse Ribs (Section 26) and I'm a little
confused
> on what to dimple/CSK, or leave alone. Attached pic indicates what I think
> is proper. Can anyone confirm or correct?
> Thanks.
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
> 40-442
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | RG400 Coax Stripper |
For those of you using RG400 coax for your antennas, what stripping tool are
you using? What is a good buy?
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
QB canopy and windshield trim
Message 4
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| Subject: | fuel selector Andair |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
If you want the valve in the same location as original you'll need to
get the extension kit for the handle. The interference issues listed
below can be worked out but when you add in the 2" SCAT for the rear
heat it becomes unworkable without relocation and/or the valve
extension. Tim Olson has several good pictures of the valve with
extension on his website and my installation is almost identical.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Kraus
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 7:28 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: fuel selector Andair
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus"
<n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
Dave -
Are you sure this will fit in your tunnel? Install the 90 degree
fittings and then the rudder cables and fuel lines, I think you will
find there is not enough room for everything. I did the same type
installation as you did, but moved the valve forward in the tunnel
approximately in line with the exit of the rudder cables to the rudder
pedals. Much more room up there and no issue with the cables rubbing
the fuel lines....
-Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 1:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: fuel selector Andair
Have included pictures what we have done to install Andair valve as
supplied
by Vans and also solve the removal problem of the forward tunnel cover.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Mid Fuse Rib Dimples |
I got 3 feedback messages that corrected/clarified my understanding of
dimpling the mid-fuse ribs. Here is a corrected picture and the 3 messages
posted. Apparently all of this could be done in later steps but dimpling
F1015A and F1018 now is easier. Many thanks to those who have forged the
trail.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
40-422
Cheers..Evan Johnson
Albert, you seem to have it right to me except for the #30 holes in
F-1015A. They do not get dimpled at all the way I read it. See page 29-15
for the skin layout. I'm glad I looked at this as it would seem also that
the 3 holes behind the rear spar carry through-in the same row (in F-1018)
do get dimpled. I don't see those on your picture, you may want to look at
the side skin... I'm pretty sure you match drill those through the skin..
Deems Davis # 406
Al, I just finished Sec 26 and benefited from the dialogue on this
section that took place a couple of weeks ago. Here's what I've done,
.... so far. F1004D,F1015B,F1005C - nothing so far, I'll wait til the side
skins get attached, hoping it will be more obvious/self apparent at the
time. F1015A - I dimpled all of the holes that match with the side skins
outlined in Sec 29-17 (these were #40 only) Sec 29-15 say's don't dimple the
#30's
F1018 - Ditto
PJ Seipel
Albert, You don't want to dimple the #30 holes in the F-1015A because those
don't get dimpled in the skin (29-15). Don't countersink the F1004D because
it gets covered up by the F-1004K (28-9 Fig 1). Page 29-15 is helpful too.
For what it's worth, I didn't dimple anything at the step you're on. I did
it all right before I put on the side skins. At that point it's
real easy to see what needs to get dimpled/countersunk. The only thing I
wish I would have dimpled ahead of time was the #40 holes in the F-1015A
excluding the joggles and the F-1018. If you wait, then you need a #40 3/8"
(little) pop rivet die for the holes along the bottom of the rib. Oh, and
don't put the nutplates on the F-1076 bottom skin (26-7 figure 1) yet. They
make it really hard to get the side skins on.
Message 6
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| Subject: | fuel selector Andair |
I'm actually working through how to mount my Andair valve at the moment. Not
quite mounting it yet, but making sure I know how I want to mount it so I have
the correct stuff. I ordered the FS20x7-T from Neal George a while back and
this thing is perfect if you want to mount in the stock location. Because it
is the "Y" configuration valve (including the lines) and all three lines go straight
down in a nice compact manner, you may or may not have the issues of needing
the extension.
With the past issues of getting the scat tube through, combined with the plus
of a lower head to draw on, I have decided to mount this thing as closer to the
floor. To do this I am adding a 6 inch extension. I think this configuration
is going to be the easiest to work with and should give the most space for
the scat tube and other stuff similar to Bob's and Tim's setups. I am also going
to probably go with something like Aeroquip 666 tubing for the run from the
tanks to the valve ala Tim's config.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 11:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: fuel selector Andair
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
--> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
If you want the valve in the same location as original you'll need to get the extension
kit for the handle. The interference issues listed below can be worked
out but when you add in the 2" SCAT for the rear heat it becomes unworkable
without relocation and/or the valve extension. Tim Olson has several good pictures
of the valve with extension on his website and my installation is almost
identical.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Kraus
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 7:28 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: fuel selector Andair
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus"
<n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
Dave -
Are you sure this will fit in your tunnel? Install the 90 degree fittings and
then the rudder cables and fuel lines, I think you will find there is not enough
room for everything. I did the same type installation as you did, but moved
the valve forward in the tunnel approximately in line with the exit of the rudder
cables to the rudder pedals. Much more room up there and no issue with
the cables rubbing the fuel lines....
-Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 1:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: fuel selector Andair
Have included pictures what we have done to install Andair valve as supplied by
Vans and also solve the removal problem of the forward tunnel cover.
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 7
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| Subject: | RG400 Coax Stripper |
I'm using a Paladin LC CST-58/59 for single pass stripping. Worth every penny. Only word of caution around these single pass strippers is get a quality one. You can get it from a few places including Digikey: http://rocky.digikey.com/scripts/ProductInfo.dll?Site=3DUS&V=3D131&M=3D1255.1
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 10:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RG400 Coax Stripper
For those of you using RG400 coax for your antennas, what stripping tool are you
using? What is a good buy?
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
QB canopy and windshield trim
Message 8
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| Subject: | "Fighter Pilot Experience" |
To all who responded, thank you. I've booked the dog-fight for May
13th and have now managed (thanks to some of your responses) to even
muster up a bit of excitement. I've also gotten a kick in the butt
and a renewed appreciation for my wife. In addition to "supporting
my hobby," she's a great mother to our children, earns a heck of a
living and, when she's got the time, is a pretty mean cook.
I'll report back on the dog fight.
Yes, yes, I know. I'm a lucky guy. No more complaining from me.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Do Not Archive
IMG_1672.JPG
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: "Fighter Pilot Experience" |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
And she's cute too! Damn, you do have it all!!! :)
-Sean #40303 (wing bottom skins)
do not archive
On Mar 6, 2006, at 1:29 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> To all who responded, thank you. I've booked the dog-fight for May
> 13th and have now managed (thanks to some of your responses) to
> even muster up a bit of excitement. I've also gotten a kick in the
> butt and a renewed appreciation for my wife. In addition to
> "supporting my hobby," she's a great mother to our children, earns
> a heck of a living and, when she's got the time, is a pretty mean
> cook.
>
> I'll report back on the dog fight.
>
> Yes, yes, I know. I'm a lucky guy. No more complaining from me.
>
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> <IMG_1672.jpg>
>
> IMG_1672.JPG
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RG400 Coax Stripper |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
From my Aero Electric list archives
Robert L. Nuckolls, III writes:
Comments/Questions: Bob: I want a top notch Coaxial stripper for RG 400.
What do you suggest? Have a good New Year. John
Here's my personal favorite. I stock these to give
away as part of the door prize pool at my seminars.
http://www.gilchrist-electric.com/3-blade-coax-cable-strip.html
You can purchase these off Ebay or directly from Gilchrist.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Larry Rosen
#356
Fuselage (finish kit to arrive next week)
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com wrote:
> For those of you using RG400 coax for your antennas, what stripping
> tool are you using? What is a good buy?
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
> 40321
> Richmond, VA
> QB canopy and windshield trim
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Cabin Heat Cable Wire Nuts |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Looking at the plans, it appears the wire nuts that hold the push cable to
the cabin heat vents come attached. I haven't been able to find the nuts,
reference to part numbers or a place in the plans that instructs you to
attach them. Any help locating these pieces would be much appreciated.
Marcus
40286
Message 12
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
I am trying to finalize my paint scheme (not that I'm ready to paint for a
while!) and am considering using a light cream instead of the standard white
for the base coat. I don't want to go too dark, my first airplane (a Q2)
was painted a light tan since I didn't want to go Long-EZ white or the
standard Q2 yellow, but managed to unintentionally match the haze in Phoenix
exactly making it impossible for the tower to see me until short final.
Aside from "it's just different", are there any other reasons to avoid
cream? My only other immediate thought is it might be tougher to color
match down the road following repairs.
Thanks,
Marcus
40286
Message 13
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
One trip to the paint store will show you how a quick rematch becomes
most challenging even in white. Randy DeBauw made the choice simple by
using the standard GMC pickup white. I think Tim used "Standard" PPG
Base White.
Your choice is a personal one. My white BMW 535i came with three unique
shades of white for the exact same car when I went to panel "repaint".
When VAN's repainted the new improved canopy on N410RV, the Valspar or
the mixing and application did not produce the same shade of yellow as
the original.
I always save 25% more base color and 50% more accent color than applied
so as to have a "reshoot" inventory of the exact mix. Remember, humans
are dialing in the additives and the human eye can see 16.5 million
shades of color. Splitting hairs.
Just an idea.
John - KUAO
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 5:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Paint Scheme
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
I am trying to finalize my paint scheme (not that I'm ready to paint for
a
while!) and am considering using a light cream instead of the standard
white
for the base coat. I don't want to go too dark, my first airplane (a
Q2)
was painted a light tan since I didn't want to go Long-EZ white or the
standard Q2 yellow, but managed to unintentionally match the haze in
Phoenix
exactly making it impossible for the tower to see me until short final.
Aside from "it's just different", are there any other reasons to avoid
cream? My only other immediate thought is it might be tougher to color
match down the road following repairs.
Thanks,
Marcus
40286
Message 14
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|
N533JD (RV-10 #40330) flew today!!! Signed off in the morning and in the air
in the afternoon. What a great flying airplane, very smooth and quiet. Everything
worked perfect. Will enjoy flying off these hours.
Debbie Dewey / Jim Erskine
Granbury, Texas
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Cable Wire Nuts |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I just checked my un-installed heater vents and there are no wire nuts
attached. Can't help if you mean not installed to the push cable. My
finish kit arrives next week.
Larry
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
>Looking at the plans, it appears the wire nuts that hold the push cable to
>the cabin heat vents come attached. I haven't been able to find the nuts,
>reference to part numbers or a place in the plans that instructs you to
>attach them. Any help locating these pieces would be much appreciated.
>
>Marcus
>40286
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: RG400 Coax Stripper |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
FYI found this on the AeroElectric Connection on how to us a 3-blade
Coax Stripper
<http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Coax_Stripper/coaxstrip.html>
Larry
(who should be working on the plane and not surfing the net)
Larry Rosen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
> From my Aero Electric list archives
>
> Robert L. Nuckolls, III writes:
>
> Comments/Questions: Bob: I want a top notch Coaxial stripper for RG
> 400. What do you suggest? Have a good New Year. John
>
>
> Here's my personal favorite. I stock these to give
> away as part of the door prize pool at my seminars.
>
> http://www.gilchrist-electric.com/3-blade-coax-cable-strip.html
>
> You can purchase these off Ebay or directly from Gilchrist.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> -----------------------------------------
> ( Experience and common sense cannot be )
> ( replaced with policy and procedures. )
> ( R. L. Nuckolls III )
> -----------------------------------------
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Cable Wire Nuts |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
They're kind of different types of nuts. I don't have a clear picture
in my head right now, but anyway, you'd find them in a hardware bag
and no, they're not attached. I think they were kind of a hex stub
that had a hole through it and a setscrew in somewhere. Anyway,
you'll find them in the bags.
You can just barely make them out in these photos:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20051228/RV200512270043.html
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20051228/RV200512270042.html
Look at the ends of the wire on the cables.
Tim
do not archive
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> Looking at the plans, it appears the wire nuts that hold the push cable to
> the cabin heat vents come attached. I haven't been able to find the nuts,
> reference to part numbers or a place in the plans that instructs you to
> attach them. Any help locating these pieces would be much appreciated.
>
> Marcus
> 40286
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Paint Scheme |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Whatever you do, if you want to sell it someday, make it a
good resale color. No pepto pink, mint green, brown, orange...
Resale white is the easy bet. There's an RV-10 that was built
beautifully up here in Minnesota, and it's awaiting someone
to come and buy it. It's a brownish tan, inside and out.
I'd have to think that the choice in color is one of the
main de-motivators as to why it wouldn't be sold already.
My old Sundowner though was an off-white ivory type color
with maroon and blue, and it was beautiful. A popular
Bonanza scheme. Done with the proper contrast colors, your
light cream could look great.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I am trying to finalize my paint scheme (not that I'm ready to paint for a
> while!) and am considering using a light cream instead of the standard white
> for the base coat. I don't want to go too dark, my first airplane (a Q2)
> was painted a light tan since I didn't want to go Long-EZ white or the
> standard Q2 yellow, but managed to unintentionally match the haze in Phoenix
> exactly making it impossible for the tower to see me until short final.
> Aside from "it's just different", are there any other reasons to avoid
> cream? My only other immediate thought is it might be tougher to color
> match down the road following repairs.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
> 40286
>
>
>
Message 19
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Congratulations!!!! Have to like the consistency of the successful first
flights without a hitch. Pictures when able would be great.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Debbie Dewey
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 9:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: First Flight
N533JD (RV-10 #40330) flew today!!! Signed off in the morning and in the
air in the afternoon. What a great flying airplane, very smooth and quiet.
Everything worked perfect. Will enjoy flying off these hours.
Debbie Dewey / Jim Erskine
Granbury, Texas
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Ain't it great! Good job Debbie! You'll have to fill me in as
to how you're liking your panel. I know you practically went
through the war to get it delivered, but I bet it's all worth
it now!
Congrats!
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Debbie Dewey wrote:
> N533JD (RV-10 #40330) flew today!!! Signed off in the morning and in
> the air in the afternoon. What a great flying airplane, very smooth and
> quiet. Everything worked perfect. Will enjoy flying off these hours.
> Debbie Dewey / Jim Erskine
> Granbury, Texas
Message 21
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I am really excited to see pictures and talk to you. Send some as soon
as you can. I posted the message on the FTLPA website discussion page.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Debbie Dewey
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 7:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: First Flight
N533JD (RV-10 #40330) flew today!!! Signed off in the morning and in
the air in the afternoon. What a great flying airplane, very smooth and
quiet. Everything worked perfect. Will enjoy flying off these hours.
Debbie Dewey / Jim Erskine
Granbury, Texas
Message 22
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Thanks Tim, oddly enough maroon and blue were the colors I was planning on.
As John mentioned though, matching later could be a real hassle. Of course
I haven't even decided to fly or paint first, although I sure would like to
have the painting out of the way and focus on the flying.
Marcus
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 10:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint Scheme
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Whatever you do, if you want to sell it someday, make it a
good resale color. No pepto pink, mint green, brown, orange...
Resale white is the easy bet. There's an RV-10 that was built
beautifully up here in Minnesota, and it's awaiting someone
to come and buy it. It's a brownish tan, inside and out.
I'd have to think that the choice in color is one of the
main de-motivators as to why it wouldn't be sold already.
My old Sundowner though was an off-white ivory type color
with maroon and blue, and it was beautiful. A popular
Bonanza scheme. Done with the proper contrast colors, your
light cream could look great.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I am trying to finalize my paint scheme (not that I'm ready to paint for a
> while!) and am considering using a light cream instead of the standard
white
> for the base coat. I don't want to go too dark, my first airplane (a Q2)
> was painted a light tan since I didn't want to go Long-EZ white or the
> standard Q2 yellow, but managed to unintentionally match the haze in
Phoenix
> exactly making it impossible for the tower to see me until short final.
> Aside from "it's just different", are there any other reasons to avoid
> cream? My only other immediate thought is it might be tougher to color
> match down the road following repairs.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
> 40286
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | fuel selector Andair |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
I just finished my install this weekend of the fuel valve with the extension
from Andair. Went smooth and pain free. I left the original bracket in place
so I can mount the valve under the center console for easy access. I got my
valve from Neal George (334-262-8993). He had the 90deg valves in stock with
extensions, got em in a couple days. I am always impressed with the quality
of Andair valves and the extension is designed and made well. You can't just
order the extension to put on a regular valve as the red pointer and top
plate is different from the original. It's a kit, six pieces plus the valve.
Steve DiNieri
N221rv
N231rv
N331rv res
If you want the valve in the same location as original you'll need to
get the extension kit for the handle. The interference issues listed
below can be worked out but when you add in the 2" SCAT for the rear
heat it becomes unworkable without relocation and/or the valve
extension. Tim Olson has several good pictures of the valve with
extension on his website and my installation is almost identical.
Bob #40105
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Paint Scheme |
Don't forget that paint changes colors as it ages and in different
environments and sub-surface material, also.
Patrick Scott
do not archive
Message 25
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| Subject: | Elevator Trailing Edge |
All,
I am about to do my elevator trailing edges and have a quick question. I plan
on using the angle iron method (I made a nice proseal mess doing it the Van's
way for the rudder) and was wondering about the direction of the rivets.
Did everyone set all of the rivets in the same direction so the shop head was
on the bottom side or did you still alternate them? I would rather have the shop
heads hidden on the bottom but not if there is going to be a problem with
it hooking. Thanks.
--Shawn
40366
---------------------------------
Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze.
Message 26
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| Subject: | Elevator Trailing Edge |
I alternated mine on all of the trailing edges (Rudder, el, flaps & ailerons).
All came out straight as a die. You can fill the void on the shop head if you
are really concerned.
cheers,
Ron
#187 fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Shawn Moon
Sent: Tuesday, 7 March 2006 2:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator Trailing Edge
All,
I am about to do my elevator trailing edges and have a quick question. I plan
on using the angle iron method (I made a nice proseal mess doing it the Van's
way for the rudder) and was wondering about the direction of the rivets.
Did everyone set all of the rivets in the same direction so the shop head was
on the bottom side or did you still alternate them? I would rather have the shop
heads hidden on the bottom but not if there is going to be a problem with
it hooking. Thanks.
--Shawn
40366
_____
Bring photos to life! New <http://pa.yahoo.com/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=3D39174/*http://photomail.mail.yahoo.com> PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze.
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trailing Edge |
I went same side all the way down using the angle iron method. Came
out fine.
Choice is yours.
-Sean #40303 (wing bottom skins)
On Mar 6, 2006, at 8:53 PM, Shawn Moon wrote:
> All,
> I am about to do my elevator trailing edges and have a quick
> question. I plan on using the angle iron method (I made a nice
> proseal mess doing it the Van's way for the rudder) and was
> wondering about the direction of the rivets. Did everyone set all
> of the rivets in the same direction so the shop head was on the
> bottom side or did you still alternate them? I would rather have
> the shop heads hidden on the bottom but not if there is going to be
> a problem with it hooking. Thanks.
>
> --Shawn
> 40366
>
> Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze.
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trailing Edge |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I alternated them.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
Shawn Moon wrote:
> All,
> I am about to do my elevator trailing edges and have a quick
> question. I plan on using the angle iron method (I made a nice
> proseal mess doing it the Van's way for the rudder) and was wondering
> about the direction of the rivets. Did everyone set all of the rivets
> in the same direction so the shop head was on the bottom side or did
> you still alternate them? I would rather have the shop heads hidden
> on the bottom but not if there is going to be a problem with it
> hooking. Thanks.
>
> --Shawn
> 40366
>
> Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail
> <http://pa.yahoo.com/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=39174/*http://photomail.mail.yahoo.com>
> makes sharing a breeze.
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Congratulations.
#330 built in a year. Wow.
Larry Rosen
#40356
Debbie Dewey wrote:
> N533JD (RV-10 #40330) flew today!!! Signed off in the morning and in
> the air in the afternoon. What a great flying airplane, very smooth
> and quiet. Everything worked perfect. Will enjoy flying off these
> hours.
> Debbie Dewey / Jim Erskine
> Granbury, Texas
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trailing Edge |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I put them all in with the shop head down.
This evens out the score. 2 alternating - 2 shop head down. :-)
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trailing Edge |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I alternated on the rudder for symmetry. I put the flush head on top
for the elevators for cosmetics. Either way will come out
just fine, but the flush heads will look nicer on the elevators for sure.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Shawn Moon wrote:
> All,
> I am about to do my elevator trailing edges and have a quick
> question. I plan on using the angle iron method (I made a nice proseal
> mess doing it the Van's way for the rudder) and was wondering about the
> direction of the rivets. Did everyone set all of the rivets in the same
> direction so the shop head was on the bottom side or did you still
> alternate them? I would rather have the shop heads hidden on the bottom
> but not if there is going to be a problem with it hooking. Thanks.
>
> --Shawn
> 40366
>
> Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail
> <http://pa.yahoo.com/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=39174/*http://photomail.mail.yahoo.com>
> makes sharing a breeze.
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Cable Wire Nuts |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Marcus,
I had the same problem locating them. I thought I made a note in plans but
I didn't. They did eventually turn up so they're there in one of the brown
bags.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 8:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Heat Cable Wire Nuts
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> Looking at the plans, it appears the wire nuts that hold the push cable to
> the cabin heat vents come attached. I haven't been able to find the nuts,
> reference to part numbers or a place in the plans that instructs you to
> attach them. Any help locating these pieces would be much appreciated.
>
> Marcus
> 40286
>
>
>
Message 33
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Mammoth effort Debbie!
Congratulations!
John 40315
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Debbie Dewey
Sent: Tuesday, 7 March 2006 12:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: First Flight
N533JD (RV-10 #40330) flew today!!! Signed off in the morning and in the
air in the afternoon. What a great flying airplane, very smooth and quiet.
Everything worked perfect. Will enjoy flying off these hours.
Debbie Dewey / Jim Erskine
Granbury, Texas
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