Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:15 AM - Re: Re: yasir sabri - End2Spam (bruce breckenridge)
2. 09:54 AM - Prop Governor arm (Marcus Cooper)
3. 09:57 AM - Dimensions for the F1044B angle (PJ Seipel)
4. 10:17 AM - Re: Prop Governor arm (Rob Kermanj)
5. 10:19 AM - Re: Prop Governor arm (LessDragProd@aol.com)
6. 11:18 AM - Re: Dimensions for the F1044B angle (Larry Rosen)
7. 01:13 PM - Where to start on QB fuse? (Dan Masys)
8. 01:19 PM - Re: Watch out for mislabelled W-1016 wing tip ribs (Tim Olson)
9. 01:21 PM - Re: Prop Governor arm (Tim Olson)
10. 01:56 PM - Re: Prop Governor arm - thanks (Marcus Cooper)
11. 02:30 PM - Re: Re: Watch out for mislabelled W-1016 wing tip ribs (Dan Masys)
12. 03:23 PM - Suddenly its all too clear (Dan Masys)
13. 04:22 PM - Re: Where to start on QB fuse? (Larry Rosen)
14. 05:44 PM - Re: Dimensions for the F1044B angle (Rick)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RE: RE: yasir sabri - End2Spam |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "bruce breckenridge" <bbreckenridge@gmail.com>
Thanks for the correction Cory! I must say, AEROMEDIX was incredibly
quick on responding to my web-based order. I sent them a copy of the
"brent blue md" email asking if it was legit but didn't hear back, so,
I assumed the negative.
Bruce
Message 2
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| Subject: | Prop Governor arm |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
I have the baffling just about finished and need to modify the MT prop
governor actuation arm location so the cable will work properly (currently
the arm rotates from vertically straight down to aft, it should start with
the arm pointing forward and be pulled down from what I can tell). I'm not
sure what needs to be rotated 90 degrees though. It appears the base needs
to stay in the same location and the outside ring moves in 60 degree
increments, not 90 and I don't know if there is any kind of calibration
associated with it so am hesitant to undo all the safety wire???????
Thanks for any help,
Marcus
40286
Do Not Archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Dimensions for the F1044B angle |
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
On page 31-2, revision 0, of the plans, step 2 is to fabricate the
F1044B Angle. The plans give the overall length of the part, but so far
as I can tell, there is no dimension on the drawing that allows me to
determine the length of the piece on the left side that gets bent
upwards. Am I missing it somewhere?
PJ
#40032
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Governor arm |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
You need to undo the safety wire from the screws and rotate the ring
around the body so that the arm is pointing to about 10-11 oclock
postion viewed looking to the right of the plane. You do not need to
remove the ring, just rotate it. This position is for the high RPM.
push the prop cable to the firewall and adjust the connection to the
governer accordingly. I have not adjusted my final RPM but I believe
that the final adjusments, if needed. are done with an adjument screw
at the properller nose.
Rob
On 4/2/06, Marcus Cooper <coop85@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I have the baffling just about finished and need to modify the MT prop
> governor actuation arm location so the cable will work properly (currently
> the arm rotates from vertically straight down to aft, it should start with
> the arm pointing forward and be pulled down from what I can tell). I'm not
> sure what needs to be rotated 90 degrees though. It appears the base needs
> to stay in the same location and the outside ring moves in 60 degree
> increments, not 90 and I don't know if there is any kind of calibration
> associated with it so am hesitant to undo all the safety wire???????
>
> Thanks for any help,
> Marcus
> 40286
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Governor arm |
For a single lever MT Governor:
Remove the safety wire from the six screws around the top ring on the
governor.
Loosen the six screws. They do not need to be removed.
Rotate the lever arm assembly to the desired position.
Tighten the six screws. (They are small, so don't overtighten them.)
Install safety wire.
For the earlier MT Governor with two levers:
Bend back the ears on the safety tab of the single screw on the outer lever.
Remove the single screw from the outer lever, and slide the lever off of the
spline shaft.
Slide the lever back onto the spline shaft in the location you want the
lever.
Install the single screw with safety tab into lever.
Bend the tabs against the screw head.
This is in the governor manual provided, but I had to be forced to read it.
(Stinking instructions. Who needs stinking instructions. :-) )
Regards,
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
An FAA certified MT Propeller Repair Station
_www.lessdrag.com_ (http://www.lessdrag.com)
_jim@lessdrag.com_ (mailto:jim@lessdrag.com)
In a message dated 04/02/2006 9:55:59 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
coop85@bellsouth.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
I have the baffling just about finished and need to modify the MT prop
governor actuation arm location so the cable will work properly (currently
the arm rotates from vertically straight down to aft, it should start with
the arm pointing forward and be pulled down from what I can tell). I'm not
sure what needs to be rotated 90 degrees though. It appears the base needs
to stay in the same location and the outside ring moves in 60 degree
increments, not 90 and I don't know if there is any kind of calibration
associated with it so am hesitant to undo all the safety wire???????
Thanks for any help,
Marcus
40286
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Dimensions for the F1044B angle |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I have a quickbuild fuse, so the part was already manufactured and
installed. However the upper forward fuselage is off the plane. I
measured the part and the short flat section is 1/4" and the bent
section is 3/4" of an inch. I will send you photos of list.
Larry
PJ Seipel wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
>
> On page 31-2, revision 0, of the plans, step 2 is to fabricate the
> F1044B Angle. The plans give the overall length of the part, but so
> far as I can tell, there is no dimension on the drawing that allows me
> to determine the length of the piece on the left side that gets bent
> upwards. Am I missing it somewhere?
>
> PJ
> #40032
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Where to start on QB fuse? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
With the wings essentially done, I started looking at the fuselage sections of
the plans. As far as I can tell, everything has been done up through Section
29, and I should start with installing the steps (Section 30). Is that correct,
or are there details of the sections 25-29 that are left undone by those talented
folks in the Philippines?
(Certainly would be nice if Vans would publish some quickbuild-specific instructions.)
-Dan Masys
#40448
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Watch out for mislabelled W-1016 wing tip ribs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Are you sure they were mis-labeled, or were they just put in upside-down?
There are 2 takes to how you can mount them. Some people mount
them flanges facing away from the tip, so they can easily squeeze
the rivets. The Van's plans way (and the way I did them) is to
mount them with the flanges facing into the tips. That gives a
flush, smooth tip-to-aileron fit, with no added gap. No big
problem either way, but it's more asthetic if the flanges are
per-plans. I can see how someone would get turned around
installing the ribs, but if you test fit them per plans before
you drill, and mate them to the wings, it should go OK.
I hope I'm clear in explaining about the flange direction though,
because again, it can be done either way...but that may be
one of the things that turned you around.
Tim
40170
Dan Masys wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
>
> Just when I thought I had the wings done, I got the wingtips
> installed with internal antennas and wiring, and realized that Van's
> had sent the W-1016 R and L ribs mislabelled. (I checked the labels
> multiple times to make sure they matched the wings. Unfortunately,
> with the ribs installed, the angled flanges are bending the wrong
> direction and the wingtip contours do not line up with the ailerons.)
>
>
> So if anybody is at the stage of mounting wingtips, be sure to double
> check this. The convex angled flange needs to go on the bottom
> surface of the wingtip, and the concave angle flange on the top. Not
> looking forward to drilling out the 38 rivets through fiberglas,
> dismounting the wingtips and redoing this with replacement parts.
> Yuk.
>
> -Dan Masys #40448
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Governor arm |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
You're right about the rotation. I think I have some good photos
of my install on my site. You loosen the 6 screws if I remember
right and then it rotates easily. I re-saftied mine. I don't think
you need to loosen them much. The orientation is so the lever faces
forward and goes up and down toward a hole in the baffle ramp below
it. Again though, I think you'll find some good photos on my site
that show it. I don't think you also have to remove the 6 screws...
I think it's just loosen and rotate. I'm not 100% sure though,
as I'm getting fuzzy, but I think that's what Anh told me back
when I had the same question.
Tim
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I have the baffling just about finished and need to modify the MT prop
> governor actuation arm location so the cable will work properly (currently
> the arm rotates from vertically straight down to aft, it should start with
> the arm pointing forward and be pulled down from what I can tell). I'm not
> sure what needs to be rotated 90 degrees though. It appears the base needs
> to stay in the same location and the outside ring moves in 60 degree
> increments, not 90 and I don't know if there is any kind of calibration
> associated with it so am hesitant to undo all the safety wire???????
>
> Thanks for any help,
> Marcus
> 40286
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Prop Governor arm - thanks |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Thanks to all for the responses, all were an enormous help!!! Once again
the list proves to be an amazing asset, work on another project for a little
while and like magic the answer you needed is there in short order.
Thanks,
Marcus
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 1:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prop Governor arm
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
You need to undo the safety wire from the screws and rotate the ring
around the body so that the arm is pointing to about 10-11 oclock
postion viewed looking to the right of the plane. You do not need to
remove the ring, just rotate it. This position is for the high RPM.
push the prop cable to the firewall and adjust the connection to the
governer accordingly. I have not adjusted my final RPM but I believe
that the final adjusments, if needed. are done with an adjument screw
at the properller nose.
Rob
On 4/2/06, Marcus Cooper <coop85@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I have the baffling just about finished and need to modify the MT prop
> governor actuation arm location so the cable will work properly
(currently
> the arm rotates from vertically straight down to aft, it should start with
> the arm pointing forward and be pulled down from what I can tell). I'm
not
> sure what needs to be rotated 90 degrees though. It appears the base
needs
> to stay in the same location and the outside ring moves in 60 degree
> increments, not 90 and I don't know if there is any kind of calibration
> associated with it so am hesitant to undo all the safety wire???????
>
> Thanks for any help,
> Marcus
> 40286
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Watch out for mislabelled W-1016 wing tip ribs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
Pretty sure they were either mislabelled, or Vans changed the plans, since the
set of plans I have show on Page 24-3 a picture (Figure 3) that pretty clearly
shows the flanges facing toward the ailerons (ie., the same way the aileron flanges
face, so that the two together, as viewed from the rear would look like
_[ ]_ (gotta love those ascii graphics)).
Anyway, its all riveted together so it's going to be a set of replacement parts
either way.
-Dan Masys
#40448
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Are you sure they were mis-labeled, or were they just put in upside-down?
>
> There are 2 takes to how you can mount them. Some people mount
> them flanges facing away from the tip, so they can easily squeeze
> the rivets. The Van's plans way (and the way I did them) is to
> mount them with the flanges facing into the tips. That gives a
> flush, smooth tip-to-aileron fit, with no added gap. No big
> problem either way, but it's more asthetic if the flanges are
> per-plans. I can see how someone would get turned around
> installing the ribs, but if you test fit them per plans before
> you drill, and mate them to the wings, it should go OK.
> I hope I'm clear in explaining about the flange direction though,
> because again, it can be done either way...but that may be
> one of the things that turned you around.
>
> Tim
> 40170
>
> Dan Masys wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
> >
> > Just when I thought I had the wings done, I got the wingtips
> > installed with internal antennas and wiring, and realized that Van's
> > had sent the W-1016 R and L ribs mislabelled. (I checked the labels
> > multiple times to make sure they matched the wings. Unfortunately,
> > with the ribs installed, the angled flanges are bending the wrong
> > direction and the wingtip contours do not line up with the ailerons.)
> >
> >
> > So if anybody is at the stage of mounting wingtips, be sure to double
> > check this. The convex angled flange needs to go on the bottom
> > surface of the wingtip, and the concave angle flange on the top. Not
> > looking forward to drilling out the 38 rivets through fiberglas,
> > dismounting the wingtips and redoing this with replacement parts.
> > Yuk.
> >
> > -Dan Masys #40448
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Suddenly its all too clear |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
Tim is right. I looked again closely at the plans on p. 24-3 and those wing tip
rib flanges point inward toward the inside of the wing tip, not toward the aileron.
Didn't see that the flange lines were dashed, to show hidden location.
False alarm, and the list proves its enduring value one more time!
-Dan Masys
#40448
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >
> > Are you sure they were mis-labeled, or were they just put in upside-down?
> >
> > There are 2 takes to how you can mount them. Some people mount
> > them flanges facing away from the tip, so they can easily squeeze
> > the rivets. The Van's plans way (and the way I did them) is to
> > mount them with the flanges facing into the tips. That gives a
> > flush, smooth tip-to-aileron fit, with no added gap. No big
> > problem either way, but it's more asthetic if the flanges are
> > per-plans. I can see how someone would get turned around
> > installing the ribs, but if you test fit them per plans before
> > you drill, and mate them to the wings, it should go OK.
> > I hope I'm clear in explaining about the flange direction though,
> > because again, it can be done either way...but that may be
> > one of the things that turned you around.
> >
> > Tim
> > 40170
> >
> > Dan Masys wrote:
> > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
> > >
> > > Just when I thought I had the wings done, I got the wingtips
> > > installed with internal antennas and wiring, and realized that Van's
> > > had sent the W-1016 R and L ribs mislabelled. (I checked the labels
> > > multiple times to make sure they matched the wings. Unfortunately,
> > > with the ribs installed, the angled flanges are bending the wrong
> > > direction and the wingtip contours do not line up with the ailerons.)
> > >
> > >
> > > So if anybody is at the stage of mounting wingtips, be sure to double
> > > check this. The convex angled flange needs to go on the bottom
> > > surface of the wingtip, and the concave angle flange on the top. Not
> > > looking forward to drilling out the 38 rivets through fiberglas,
> > > dismounting the wingtips and redoing this with replacement parts.
> > > Yuk.
> > >
> > > -Dan Masys #40448
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Where to start on QB fuse? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Yes, just like the QB wings there are things undone.
Start by removing all the temporary pop rivets on the floor boards,
remove temporary pop rivets in the forward upper fuselage and get it out
of the way. Remove all the close out panels. Remove the seat cover and
seat floor. Remove the F1043D cover panel in front of the seat. Soon
the quickbuild will look allot less complete. :-)
You will need to remove the landing gear mounts so you can put the cabin
floor in.
There is a nut plate that goes on the F-1040 upper fuse channel that
needs to be installed. Much easier to do before you rivet the F1042E
gusset in place.
Seat back brace needs to be pop riveted in place (remove the temp pop
rivets).
Probably forgot some stuff, but its a start.
Larry
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Dan Masys wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
>
>With the wings essentially done, I started looking at the fuselage sections of
the plans. As far as I can tell, everything has been done up through Section
29, and I should start with installing the steps (Section 30). Is that correct,
or are there details of the sections 25-29 that are left undone by those talented
folks in the Philippines?
>
>(Certainly would be nice if Vans would publish some quickbuild-specific instructions.)
>
>-Dan Masys
>#40448
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Dimensions for the F1044B angle |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
PJ,
The drawing in the plans is to scale, cut your notch 3/4" back in the angle. Polish
is up and make your bend. Go easy, it may seem hard to bend but it went pretty
easy. I clamped mine in the jaws of my hand seamer and slowly worked it
to the reverse angle of 31 degrees, it was easier to measure than 149 degrees.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse & Finish
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