RV10-List Digest Archive

Fri 04/14/06


Total Messages Posted: 18



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:25 AM - Re: Re: IFR related cockpit stuff (Wayne Edgerton)
     2. 05:49 AM - Re: aileron trim tension (zackrv8)
     3. 08:49 AM - Re: Rear Windows (David McNeill)
     4. 08:59 AM - Re: Vans VA-186 Oil cooler box assy (Cal Hoffman)
     5. 09:22 AM - Windows (David McNeill)
     6. 09:25 AM - Windows (David McNeill)
     7. 09:35 AM - Re: Removable Rear Windows? (Dave Saylor)
     8. 10:20 AM - Windows (David McNeill)
     9. 11:13 AM - Re: Re: aileron trim tension (Jay Rowe)
    10. 12:27 PM - Re: Vans VA-186 Oil cooler box assy (Marcus Cooper)
    11. 01:31 PM - Re: Re: IFR related cockpit stuff (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
    12. 03:25 PM - Flight Test Plan (Tim Olson)
    13. 03:46 PM - Re: Windows (Jesse Saint)
    14. 03:48 PM - Re: Removable Rear Windows? (Jesse Saint)
    15. 05:17 PM - Re: Flight Test Plan (Marcus Cooper)
    16. 06:49 PM - Re: Flight Test Plan (Bruce Patton)
    17. 09:05 PM - Van's Fuel sender (Darton Steve)
    18. 11:04 PM - RV-10 Screen Burn-In (Mark & Kelly Hanley)
 
 
 


Message 1


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 03:25:35 AM PST US
    From: "Wayne Edgerton" <weeav8ter@grandecom.net>
    Subject: Re: IFR related cockpit stuff
    I think it's a brand new offering at SNF. They had/have the 2500 an engine monitor only, which is what I had ordered but have switched to their 3400. Wayne Edgerton fitting the doors # 40336 do not archive


    Message 2


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 05:49:57 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: aileron trim tension
    From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net> Jay, I called Van's yesterday to order this trim system. I talked to Gus Funnel. He said that it is supposed to be mounted on the most inboard access plate (close to the wing root) where the skin thickness is 32 thous. He did not mention any spring tension rates. I have this very same type of spring system on my RV8. It does feel tight when assembled, but when you grab the stick and move the ailerons, you hardly notice it. Zack -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28342#28342


    Message 3


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 08:49:56 AM PST US
    From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Rear Windows
    My cohort is reviewing our procedure to determine whether I forgot anything . we will put on it the list later today. If you want to see how it looks, my Glastar will be at OSH thurs through sat N48007. If required I could get a couple of pictures of the finished product. In the meantime a got the following note from a friend at the Big Airplane Company. Subject: C-5B Accident Dover FYI: Received from a personal friend who is often involved in investigations into mishaps of large planes such as this. > The old story -- nobody was flying the A/C......... > > "The current skinny on the crash--none of it official--until the board says so. > > It was not a bird ingestion but a "reverser unlock" on the #2 engine > that started this. They lost a C-5 with all aboard a few years back > in Germany for the same cause. This crew however shut down the engine > before an actual unstow took place. The airplane was well over 700K > gross weight with FOB of over 300K. The airplane had the newest > version of the C-5 flight deck with big panel glass. Unfortunately, > only one of the three pilots was really comfortable with the new equipment and FMS. > > The crew decided because of their weight to fly their approach to the > longest runway, which unfortunately was only being served that day by > a Tacan (fancy VOR for you civilian types) approach. They also > decided to fly a full flap approach to keep the approach speed down. > This isn't prohibited--just highly discouraged. The recommended flap > setting for a three engine approach is Flaps 40. During the approach > the crew became worried about not having enough power to fly a full > flap approach and selected flaps 40--which they were now too slow for. > Here's the point all you glass cockpit guys should sit up and take > notice about. The one guy who was familiar with the new glass and FMS > was also the one flying the aircraft. He became distracted inputting > the new approach speed in the FMS. There was also some confusion > about just who was flying the A/C while he had his head down updating > the speed. Long story short--they got way slow and into the shaker, > and actually stuck the tail into the trees and it departed the > aircraft first. The nose pitched down hard and the nose and left wing > impacted next snapping off the nose. Several cockpit occupants > suffered spinal compression injuries. The guys sitting at the crew table behind the cockpit actually came to a stop with their legs dangling out over the ground. > > The miracle of this was the left outboard fuel tank was broken open > and none of that fuel managed to find something hot enough to ignite > it and the other 300k. Again, a bunch of very lucky people. > > ----- Original Message ----- From: ddddsp1@juno.com To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 11:28 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear Windows Dave, Are you saying NOT to use the window (WELD ON) glue Van's recommends...........and use epoxy/resin instead? I agree the e-glass around the perimeter is a good idea,,,,,,,,,what WEGHT of e-glass do they recommend? Just one layer of E-glass and how do they feather it in to look flawless? Thanks, Dean 40449 ________________________________________________________________________ Try Juno Platinum for Free! Then, only $9.95/month!


    Message 4


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 08:59:19 AM PST US
    From: "Cal Hoffman" <cehoffman@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Vans VA-186 Oil cooler box assy
    Marcus: My oil cooler mounts to the firewall with rivets. It also looks as if Tim Olson mounted his with rivets also. Cal Hoffman (40119 canoe) ----- Original Message ----- From: Marcus Cooper To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 9:08 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans VA-186 Oil cooler box assy Ralph, I got the Firewall Forward kit and it has the same oil cooler box you received. It uses the 20006A oil cooler and it works fits just fine. You bolt it to the firewall with the large duct fitting facing up using AN-3 bolts through the firewall into nut plates that should be in place by now. The oil cooler fits on the front with bolts to nut plates with the fittings on the top side. Hope this helps, if not I can zap a picture or two. Check out this link from Tim Olson's site of the box: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/engine/20051014/RV200510140214.html Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 8:11 PM To: rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Vans VA-186 Oil cooler box assy Fellow listers, Has anyone out there used this thing for their oil cooler? It is supposed to be for the 20006A or 8604R oil cooler. I got this thing - no photos/instructions and it doesn't look right to do what I think its supposed to do. Any help would be appreciated, Ralph


    Message 5


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 09:22:04 AM PST US
    From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
    Subject: Windows
    Pictures to follow later today window procedure Although the procedure takes only about an hour to accomplish per window, setup and planning is substantially more.. I recommend that you do one window to get the procs correct and plan to do the windshield on a day by itself. (0) tape off the inside and outside flange area of the window using 3M Fineline (.5 width) (1) then signstrip blue on the center areas to protect the inside and outside of the window . Be generous when painting it on as this makes it easy to pull off. (2) sand the inside/outside edges of the window in the area of the flange to roughen the glass for adhesion. (3) sand the flanges of the lid; CLEAN ALL SANDED EDGES WITH ACETONE (4) prepare a set of aluminum "fingers" . Strips of .080 1" by 3" ; with a slight bend in the center. one end gets a #30 hole and the other is adequately taped. each is numbered. See the picture. (5) Trim the window to fit the frame and temporarily hold in place with the NUMBERED "fingers". Clecoes should be place about .50" outside the window. Drill #30 only through the external layer; NOT THROUGH THE LID. RETAPE OFF THE EDGES 3M FINELINE TAPE . (6) prepare a mixture of epoxy with chopped fibers and cabosil. Consistency should be peanut butter. Potlife should plan to be 30-40 minutes. We refrigerated it to further slow the cure. (7) putty the lid flanges, wet the window flanges with a small amount of catalyzed epoxy and place window in frame; holding in place with "fingers" at the preplanned locations. (8) inside person should be wiping excess putty away with a 50-50 mixture of mineral spirirts and acetone; outside person should be smoothing putty on outside flange. excess will be sanded off later. then PULL THE TAPES BEFORE IT CURES. (9) allow to cure 24 hours. (10) Inside lid , flange should be finished . If rough, tape glass and sand lightly. (11) outside the lid, RETAPE the edge at the flange line, then cover the flange with two 1" layers of glass (E-7782?). (Note this was the Glastar procedure.) Remember to pull the tape before the layered glass sets up. The windscreen on the RV10 requires a different layering of glass on the aluminum. (12) Retape the edge , then sand and fill external flange area for paint. The sanding can feather into the edge of the tape. (13) when painted , paint should cover the flange. (14) MUST BE DONE BEFORE THE MIXTURE CURES. If you accidentally get epoxy on the Plexiglas during the process, it can be safely removed using a clean cloth and the 50-50 mixture of mineral spirits and acetone. Have it handy. (15) 50-50 mixture is also good for removing any signstrip that does not come off when finally removing the protective covering before flight.


    Message 6


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 09:25:25 AM PST US
    From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
    Subject: Windows
    DO NOT FORGET TO PUT VASELINE ON THE CLECO TIP FOR EASY REMOVAL


    Message 7


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 09:35:44 AM PST US
    From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave@AirCraftersLLC.com>
    Subject: Removable Rear Windows?
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dave Saylor" <Dave@aircraftersllc.com> On the Legacy the hinged rear windows are very useful for loading and accessing the baggage compartment. I realize the baggage door on the -10 serves that purpose, as does easier access from the passenger area. So this is a question for -10 users--if you find yourselves wanting easier access to the baggage compartment, perhaps from the right side, or if you think it might be useful as an emergency exit, please let me know. Some people expressed interest in trim rings, which are a much easier product to produce, so I will get started on those soon. Cost for trim rings will be about $100 each, oversized so you can "trim" to whatever size you think looks best. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 831-722-9141


    Message 8


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 10:20:42 AM PST US
    From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
    Subject: Windows
    pictures


    Message 9


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 11:13:38 AM PST US
    From: "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr@adelphia.net>
    Subject: Re: aileron trim tension
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr@adelphia.net> Thanks Zack---good info. Would like to hear from you again after you have your aileron trim installed. I will talk to Gus about the buckling of the access plate skin as well. Jay ----- Original Message ----- From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net> Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 8:43 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: aileron trim tension > --> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net> > > Jay, > > I called Van's yesterday to order this trim system. I talked to Gus > Funnel. He said that it is supposed to be mounted on the most inboard > access plate (close to the wing root) where the skin thickness is 32 > thous. He did not mention any spring tension rates. > > I have this very same type of spring system on my RV8. It does feel > tight when assembled, but when you grab the stick and move the ailerons, > you hardly notice it. > > Zack > > -------- > RV8 #80125 > RV10 # 40512 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28342#28342 > > > -- > >


    Message 10


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 12:27:33 PM PST US
    From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Vans VA-186 Oil cooler box assy
    You are correct, I got typing faster than I was thinking. Riveted to the firewall, bolted to the oil cooler. Marcus Do Not Archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cal Hoffman Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 12:00 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Vans VA-186 Oil cooler box assy Marcus: My oil cooler mounts to the firewall with rivets. It also looks as if Tim Olson mounted his with rivets also. Cal Hoffman (40119 canoe) ----- Original Message ----- From: Marcus Cooper <mailto:coop85@bellsouth.net> Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 9:08 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Vans VA-186 Oil cooler box assy Ralph, I got the Firewall Forward kit and it has the same oil cooler box you received. It uses the 20006A oil cooler and it works fits just fine. You bolt it to the firewall with the large duct fitting facing up using AN-3 bolts through the firewall into nut plates that should be in place by now. The oil cooler fits on the front with bolts to nut plates with the fittings on the top side. Hope this helps, if not I can zap a picture or two. Check out this link from Tim Olson's site of the box: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/engine/20051014/RV200510140214.html Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 8:11 PM Subject: RV10-List: Vans VA-186 Oil cooler box assy Fellow listers, Has anyone out there used this thing for their oil cooler? It is supposed to be for the 20006A or 8604R oil cooler. I got this thing - no photos/instructions and it doesn't look right to do what I think its supposed to do. Any help would be appreciated, Ralph


    Message 11


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 01:31:38 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: IFR related cockpit stuff
    From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
    I was reading something that suggested for the airworthiness inspection, the examiner was also going to be interested in seeing your test plan for flight testing the aircraft. What have folks been doing for that? A one-page outline of tasks, or an 80-page flight test plan with individual test cards, or something in-between? TDT 40025


    Message 12


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 03:25:05 PM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Flight Test Plan
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> Subject changed since TDT was too lazy. ;) -- I just had the Van's flight test manual thing handy, but didn't list out any specific plan to the DAR. He didn't request any more than that, but we did verbally talk about some of the things. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote: > I was reading something that suggested for the airworthiness inspection, > the examiner was also going to be interested in seeing your test plan > for flight testing the aircraft. What have folks been doing for that? > A one-page outline of tasks, or an 80-page flight test plan with > individual test cards, or something in-between? > > > > TDT > 40025 >


    Message 13


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 03:46:11 PM PST US
    From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
    Subject: Windows
    We used a very similar method, but used screws to hold the clips to keep them tight and used FE6026 Part A & B from Spruce as the glue. It was recommended to us by a guy who builds Lancairs and it seems to hold really well. We just filled around the edges with epoxy and micro and have not had any cracking after 200+ flying hours. No e-glass, but it wouldn't hurt. Just would take a lot more work to get faired into the windows well. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org> jesse@itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org> www.itecusa.org I'm in Ecuador right now and should be back in the country by the end of May. You may call me at 352-505-1899 and leave a message that I can check from down here. Any I-TEC questions can be directed to the I-TEC office at 352-465-4545. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 11:21 AM Subject: RV10-List: Windows Pictures to follow later today window procedure Although the procedure takes only about an hour to accomplish per window, setup and planning is substantially more.. I recommend that you do one window to get the procs correct and plan to do the windshield on a day by itself. (0) tape off the inside and outside flange area of the window using 3M Fineline (.5 width) (1) then signstrip blue on the center areas to protect the inside and outside of the window . Be generous when painting it on as this makes it easy to pull off. (2) sand the inside/outside edges of the window in the area of the flange to roughen the glass for adhesion. (3) sand the flanges of the lid; CLEAN ALL SANDED EDGES WITH ACETONE (4) prepare a set of aluminum "fingers" . Strips of .080 1" by 3" ; with a slight bend in the center. one end gets a #30 hole and the other is adequately taped. each is numbered. See the picture. (5) Trim the window to fit the frame and temporarily hold in place with the NUMBERED "fingers". Clecoes should be place about .50" outside the window. Drill #30 only through the external layer; NOT THROUGH THE LID. RETAPE OFF THE EDGES 3M FINELINE TAPE . (6) prepare a mixture of epoxy with chopped fibers and cabosil. Consistency should be peanut butter. Potlife should plan to be 30-40 minutes. We refrigerated it to further slow the cure. (7) putty the lid flanges, wet the window flanges with a small amount of catalyzed epoxy and place window in frame; holding in place with "fingers" at the preplanned locations. (8) inside person should be wiping excess putty away with a 50-50 mixture of mineral spirirts and acetone; outside person should be smoothing putty on outside flange. excess will be sanded off later. then PULL THE TAPES BEFORE IT CURES. (9) allow to cure 24 hours. (10) Inside lid , flange should be finished . If rough, tape glass and sand lightly. (11) outside the lid, RETAPE the edge at the flange line, then cover the flange with two 1" layers of glass (E-7782?). (Note this was the Glastar procedure.) Remember to pull the tape before the layered glass sets up. The windscreen on the RV10 requires a different layering of glass on the aluminum. (12) Retape the edge , then sand and fill external flange area for paint. The sanding can feather into the edge of the tape. (13) when painted , paint should cover the flange. (14) MUST BE DONE BEFORE THE MIXTURE CURES. If you accidentally get epoxy on the Plexiglas during the process, it can be safely removed using a clean cloth and the 50-50 mixture of mineral spirits and acetone. Have it handy. (15) 50-50 mixture is also good for removing any signstrip that does not come off when finally removing the protective covering before flight.


    Message 14


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 03:48:16 PM PST US
    From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
    Subject: Removable Rear Windows?
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org> Double baggage doors may be nice, but I am kind of partial to the structure that the longeron gives on the right side. I know the top longerons cary through on both sides, but that extra strength seems to be nice to have. Loading from the back seats is very common if you get the compartment full, because the baggage door only goes so high. Anybody thought about baggage tiedowns? Do not archive. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org I'm in Ecuador right now and should be back in the country by the end of May. You may call me at 352-505-1899 and leave a message that I can check from down here. Any I-TEC questions can be directed to the I-TEC office at 352-465-4545. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 11:34 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Removable Rear Windows? --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dave Saylor" <Dave@aircraftersllc.com> On the Legacy the hinged rear windows are very useful for loading and accessing the baggage compartment. I realize the baggage door on the -10 serves that purpose, as does easier access from the passenger area. So this is a question for -10 users--if you find yourselves wanting easier access to the baggage compartment, perhaps from the right side, or if you think it might be useful as an emergency exit, please let me know. Some people expressed interest in trim rings, which are a much easier product to produce, so I will get started on those soon. Cost for trim rings will be about $100 each, oversized so you can "trim" to whatever size you think looks best. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 831-722-9141


    Message 15


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 05:17:48 PM PST US
    From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Flight Test Plan
    --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net> In my previous 4 experiences with a new airplane a request for a test plan never came up. But a good starting point would be with an EAA First Flight Advisor. There is some excellent test flight profile info in the literature they get. My FFA status has lapsed, but I still have the info and could zap if off-line if you need. Marcus 40286 Wiring and getting close to complete(hopefully) Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 6:22 PM Subject: RV10-List: Flight Test Plan --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> Subject changed since TDT was too lazy. ;) -- I just had the Van's flight test manual thing handy, but didn't list out any specific plan to the DAR. He didn't request any more than that, but we did verbally talk about some of the things. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote: > I was reading something that suggested for the airworthiness inspection, > the examiner was also going to be interested in seeing your test plan > for flight testing the aircraft. What have folks been doing for that? > A one-page outline of tasks, or an 80-page flight test plan with > individual test cards, or something in-between? > > > > TDT > 40025 >


    Message 16


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 06:49:47 PM PST US
    From: Bruce Patton <bpattonsoa@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Flight Test Plan
    Attached is the flight test plan and 100 hour inspection program for my RV-6A from a few years ago. The program was prepared to get a EAA advisor to sign off on the test plan for insurance. Was satisfactory for him, simple for me. He was satisfied with the test plan for the first flight and wanted nothing beyond that. Bruce Patton -6a flying, -10 later Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote: --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Subject changed since TDT was too lazy. ;) -- I just had the Van's flight test manual thing handy, but didn't list out any specific plan to the DAR. He didn't request any more than that, but we did verbally talk about some of the things. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote: > I was reading something that suggested for the airworthiness inspection, > the examiner was also going to be interested in seeing your test plan > for flight testing the aircraft. What have folks been doing for that? > A one-page outline of tasks, or an 80-page flight test plan with > individual test cards, or something in-between? > > > > TDT > 40025 >


    Message 17


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 09:05:42 PM PST US
    From: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Van's Fuel sender
    --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com> Tonight I began to install the fuel sender unit in the Right tank, it appears to be exactly the same unit as the one in the Left tank. Not a "flopped" version or mirror copy. It appears that the factory miss-labeled a left hand version as a right and boxed it as a right so I have two left side senders. Can anyone tell me for sure that they are each supposed to angle down towards the bottom of the tank when installed? Thanks, Steve 40212


    Message 18


  • INDEX
  • Back to Main INDEX
  • PREVIOUS
  • Skip to PREVIOUS Message
  • NEXT
  • Skip to NEXT Message
  • LIST
  • Reply to LIST Regarding this Message
  • SENDER
  • Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message
    Time: 11:04:53 PM PST US
    From: "Mark & Kelly Hanley" <2eyedocs@comcast.net>
    Subject: RV-10 Screen Burn-In
    Funny story, I like Larry Feldhousen's Blue RV-10 so much that I set it up on my office computer as my Wallpaper and Screensaver and I now have a permanent image burned into my monitor. Oh well, I can think of worse things! Mark DNA




    Other Matronics Email List Services

  • Post A New Message
  •   rv10-list@matronics.com
  • UN/SUBSCRIBE
  •   http://www.matronics.com/subscription
  • List FAQ
  •   http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm
  • Full Archive Search Engine
  •   http://www.matronics.com/search
  • 7-Day List Browse
  •   http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list
  • Browse RV10-List Digests
  •   http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list
  • Browse Other Lists
  •   http://www.matronics.com/browse
  • Live Online Chat!
  •   http://www.matronics.com/chat
  • Archive Downloading
  •   http://www.matronics.com/archives
  • Photo Share
  •   http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
  • Other Email Lists
  •   http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
  • Contributions
  •   http://www.matronics.com/contributions

    These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.

    -- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --