Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:27 AM - Re: Starting on firewall - gotchas? (Deems Davis)
2. 05:29 AM - Re: Twenty Nine Palms (Jesse Saint)
3. 06:36 AM - Re: Tru Trak's RV10 (Tom Deutsch)
4. 06:36 AM - Re: RV10-List Digest: Help on Engine Overhaul Options (Condon, Philip M.)
5. 06:57 AM - Re: Tru Trak's RV10 (LessDragProd@aol.com)
6. 07:00 AM - Re: This thread is played out (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
7. 07:00 AM - Re: Tru Trak's RV10 (Andrew Barker)
8. 07:09 AM - Re: Tru Trak's RV10 (LessDragProd@aol.com)
9. 07:19 AM - Re: Re: RV10-List Digest: Help on Engine Overhaul Options (Jesse Saint)
10. 07:27 AM - Re: Starting on firewall - gotchas? (Mike Howe)
11. 07:27 AM - Cowl fasteners (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
12. 07:49 AM - Re: Re: RV10-List Digest: Help on Engine Overhaul Options (Joe Trampota)
13. 07:55 AM - Re: Cowl fasteners (Rob Kermanj)
14. 07:58 AM - Re: This thread is played out (James Hein)
15. 08:23 AM - Re: Cowl fasteners (Tim Olson)
16. 08:42 AM - Re: Cowl fasteners (Phillips, Jack)
17. 08:48 AM - Re: Cowl fasteners (Jesse Saint)
18. 09:18 AM - Prop Balancing (Tim Olson)
19. 10:06 AM - Re: Tru Trak's RV10 (Mark Chamberlain)
20. 10:15 AM - Re: Cowl fasteners (Mark Chamberlain)
21. 10:29 AM - Re: Props (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
22. 10:37 AM - Re: Tru Trak's RV10 (Deems Davis)
23. 10:37 AM - Re: Tru Trak's RV10 (John Jessen)
24. 10:51 AM - Re: Tru Trak's RV10 (Tim Olson)
25. 10:53 AM - Re: Cowl fasteners (Tim Olson)
26. 11:47 AM - Re: Tru Trak's RV10 (Andrew Barker)
27. 11:51 AM - Re: Tru Trak's RV10 (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
28. 12:27 PM - Re: Tru Trak's RV10 (Tom Deutsch)
29. 12:32 PM - Re: Tru Trak's RV10 (Andrew Barker)
30. 01:08 PM - Throttle, Prop, and Mixture cable slack (Ralph E. Capen)
31. 01:16 PM - Re: Prop Balancing (Randy Lervold)
32. 02:51 PM - Re: Starting on firewall - gotchas? (Rick)
33. 03:04 PM - Re: Cowl fasteners (Rick)
34. 03:16 PM - Re: Prop Balancing (Tim Olson)
35. 03:55 PM - Re: Starting on firewall - gotchas? (James Hein)
36. 04:49 PM - Model (Jesse Saint)
37. 04:49 PM - Airplane Model (Jesse Saint)
38. 04:52 PM - Flap Motor (David Hertner)
39. 05:06 PM - Re: Model (Robin Marks)
40. 05:12 PM - Re: Cowl fasteners (Mark Chamberlain)
41. 05:17 PM - Re: Model (Jesse Saint)
42. 05:19 PM - IO540 power curve (Rob Kermanj)
43. 05:22 PM - Re: Tru Trak's RV10 (Mark Chamberlain)
44. 05:26 PM - Re: Model (Jesse Saint)
45. 06:07 PM - Re: Model (Evan and Megan Johnson)
46. 06:24 PM - Re: IO540 power curve (Tim Olson)
47. 06:25 PM - Re: Flap Motor (David McNeill)
48. 06:25 PM - Re: Model (Neal George)
49. 07:48 PM - Re: Prop Balancing (Randy Lervold)
50. 08:34 PM - Re: Tru Trak's RV10 (John W. Cox)
51. 08:58 PM - Re: Tru Trak's RV10 (John W. Cox)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Starting on firewall - gotchas? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Unlike Rick Sked's garage, you WILL find drilled rivet remenants in my
garage.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
Do Not Archive
Rick wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
>Jay,
>
>Mike Howe and several others have what seems to be the standard for the parking
brake valve. We used the bracket supplied by Vans for I think is a fuel pump
on the O-540 vs. the IO-540 where you don't need the bracket. I did mine after
the firewall was complete but you can save time by not putting the supplied
brake line bracket in place then having to remove it and fill the holes.
>
>Deem's Davis has some good slow build pic's on his site too along with some of
his "Gotchas" It's weird for me to check out his site because his project really
mirrors my project to include the areas he removed the plastic and the primer
color, now he is using the same dolly for the Fuselage so it looks even more
like my garage!
>
>You can make some pretty nice rivets using the C-Frame to in effect back rivet
areas where it is impractical to use the back rivet plate. Run your brake lines
and transponder ant. (if your mounting it under the tunnel) after the bottom
skin is on prior to joining the mid section. There are a lot of areas to watch
out for over the next few chapters. Especially the riveting of the upper/lower
fwd longerons to the firewall brackets. There is critical edge distance that
clamping will prevent problems when you get to that step. If you going to
use metal eyeball penetrations for your engine controls, don't follow Van's "Drill
3 each 5/8" holes in the recess", wait until you get the eyeballs to get
proper spacing.
>
>That all I can think of currently....I could go page by page with you and point
out a whole bunch of "and oh yeah on this step" stuff.
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>Fuse/Finish
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Twenty Nine Palms |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
I can't speak to the Mountain High system, but as to the engine, I would say
the practical service ceiling is 18,000 feet. I have it on good, but
anonymous, authority that it will make it to around 21,000, but doesn't like
to climb fast or fly fast (or even hold altitude well) that high. :-)
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 9:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Twenty Nine Palms
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
If I reimburse you for some of the gas, can we get high altitude
performance numbers on both the Mountain High and VANS Engine Service
Ceiling estimate for your engine? The headwinds don't look too bad.
Gentle Breezes and Soft Landings
John Cox - $00.02
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 5:29 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Twenty Nine Palms
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
We had a nice flight down. It was a little bumpy all of the way down.
We flew at 13,500 to Yerington for fuel and then at 11,500 into Bullhead
City for the night. We landed after dark. That MX20 terrain feature was
just the ticket with all of the mountains around that field. Short 50
min flight to TNP the next day. Leaving tomorrow am and flying on the
west side of the mountains this time. I have written down all of my
performance numbers and will post them when I get back. Randy
--
--
Message 3
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tom Deutsch" <deutscht@rhwhotels.com>
How about a Hartzel blended airfoil three blade?
Tom Deutsch
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Chamberlain
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tru Trak's RV10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain"
<10flyer@verizon.net>
The three blade MT is quiet, runs smooth and looks cool!!! What else do
you
want!!
Message 4
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| Subject: | RE: RV10-List Digest: Help on Engine Overhaul Options |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condon, Philip M." <pcondon@mitre.org>
My I/O 540 C4B5/E4B5 (Carb or FI - haven't decided yet) needs a IRAN
and test cell run. I had the engine overhauled by a local known engine
rebuilder A&I 5 years ago. The Gentleman has subsequently moved to
Florida and has passed away and I have little to no proper paperwork on
the work he did. He was in the process of moving when he did the
overhaul and his records were shipped along with the contents of his
hanger. If I sell the engine I have no real paperwork to go along with
it. I know the case, crank, and cam went out to Oklahoma because I did
the shipping and return to the mechanic (along with the paperwork....)
Can anyone recommend any options or shops that do good work ? The usual
suspects want over 20,000$ to IRAN the engine which I feel is a little
pricy.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Tru Trak's RV10 |
How about 90 pounds.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 04/18/2006 6:38:20 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
deutscht@rhwhotels.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tom Deutsch" <deutscht@rhwhotels.com>
How about a Hartzel blended airfoil three blade?
Tom Deutsch
Message 6
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| Subject: | This thread is played out |
How 'bout them Red Sox?!!
TDT
Do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LessDragProd@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tru Trak's RV10
How about 90 pounds.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 04/18/2006 6:38:20 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
deutscht@rhwhotels.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tom Deutsch"
<deutscht@rhwhotels.com>
=09
How about a Hartzel blended airfoil three blade?
=09
Tom Deutsch
Message 7
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Andrew Barker" <Andrew@trutrakap.com>
Ok, here are the numbers that we got from our test flights earlier in the
year. We could not remember the air temp. Engine is IO-540 prop is Aero
Composite 3 Blade. The 10 is unpainted.
At 7800' - 23" - 2300 RPM - 196 MPH. We both question this number because
it just doesn't seem like we should be able to get 23 inches of manifold
pressure at 7800'. But that is what the EIS was showing. We also did not
have a fuel flow at this altitude. When we increased the RPM to 2400 we got
202 MPH.
Now at 1000' - 21.5" - 2400 RPM - 14 GPH - 196 MPH. Once again these are
the numbers that we saw. They don't seem quite right given the manifold
pressure just seems too high for the altitudes.
We are planning another round of testing in the future and I will post the
numbers as we complete the tests.
We are VERY pleased with the Aero Composite prop. Flying the 10 with the
540 and 3 blade is amazing. The 6 cylinder and 3 blade combo are so very
smooth that you think that you are in a turbine. The only thing that I
don't like about the 3 blade is taking the danged cowling off and putting it
back on!
Oh and for those that wish to know we have about 90 hours on the 10 now and
it is a fantastic aircraft.
Andrew Barker
General Manager
TruTrak Flight Systems
"You build it...We fly it!"
PH:479-751-0250 Ext. 222
www.trutrakap.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 9:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tru Trak's RV10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Coming from you Mark, a flying RV-10 owner, I am a most appreciative
builder. A head to head with another flying the 2 blade would be great.
Now if both you and Vic could just throw down the gauntlet to all these
New Hartzell boyz and girls (Debbie). It is a lot more useful than just
insults that the AeroComp is much more expensive. I am hoping Jim
Younkin will take the bruise and join the dialogue anyway.
Thanks Mark.
John - KUAO
Do not Archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Chamberlain
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 6:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tru Trak's RV10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain"
<10flyer@verizon.net>
The three blade MT is quiet, runs smooth and looks cool!!! What else do
you
want!!
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Tru Trak's RV10 |
Hi John,
I believe you misread what I wrote. I didn't think the TruTrak employee was
trying to be insulting at all. Just that what was perceived as the best
propeller available was purchased.
I understand the AeroComposites propeller used has a blade designed for a
faster aircraft with a 350 hp engine. I did wonder how will it performs.
Another unknown amounts many. :-)
Regards,
Jim Ayers
Do Not Archive
In a message dated 04/17/2006 7:18:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
johnwcox@pacificnw.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Coming from you Mark, a flying RV-10 owner, I am a most appreciative
builder. A head to head with another flying the 2 blade would be great.
Now if both you and Vic could just throw down the gauntlet to all these
New Hartzell boyz and girls (Debbie). It is a lot more useful than just
insults that the AeroComp is much more expensive. I am hoping Jim
Younkin will take the bruise and join the dialogue anyway.
Thanks Mark.
John - KUAO
Do not Archive.
Message 9
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| Subject: | RE: RV10-List Digest: Help on Engine Overhaul Options |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
You might talk to Allen Barrett at BPA (BPA@BPAENGINES.COM). I know they
have a test cell. The other stuff I don't know. You might also try
contacting the shop in OK, because they may have records, especially based
on the serial number of the engine, etc. Besides that, I can't help much.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condon, Philip M.
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 8:36 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RE: RV10-List Digest: Help on Engine Overhaul Options
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condon, Philip M." <pcondon@mitre.org>
My I/O 540 C4B5/E4B5 (Carb or FI - haven't decided yet) needs a IRAN
and test cell run. I had the engine overhauled by a local known engine
rebuilder A&I 5 years ago. The Gentleman has subsequently moved to
Florida and has passed away and I have little to no proper paperwork on
the work he did. He was in the process of moving when he did the
overhaul and his records were shipped along with the contents of his
hanger. If I sell the engine I have no real paperwork to go along with
it. I know the case, crank, and cam went out to Oklahoma because I did
the shipping and return to the mechanic (along with the paperwork....)
Can anyone recommend any options or shops that do good work ? The usual
suspects want over 20,000$ to IRAN the engine which I feel is a little
pricy.
--
--
Message 10
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| Subject: | Starting on firewall - gotchas? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Howe" <mikemb@aros.net>
I posted the pictures of how I used the bracket described and you can
see how we mounted the assembly. Here is a link to the page; the
information is toward the bottom of the page.
http://www.etigerrr.com/Fuselage/section_36_brakelines.htm
Also I had a wonderful surprise visit from Van and Ken Kruger when they
got weathered in here at SLC on the way to Sun and Fun. Check out the
story and pictures at http://www.etigerrr.com/van.htm
Mike Howe
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 5:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Starting on firewall - gotchas?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Unlike Rick Sked's garage, you WILL find drilled rivet remenants in my
garage.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
Do Not Archive
Rick wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
>Jay,
>
>Mike Howe and several others have what seems to be the standard for the
parking brake valve. We used the bracket supplied by Vans for I think is
a fuel pump on the O-540 vs. the IO-540 where you don't need the
bracket. I did mine after the firewall was complete but you can save
time by not putting the supplied brake line bracket in place then having
to remove it and fill the holes.
>
>Deem's Davis has some good slow build pic's on his site too along with
some of his "Gotchas" It's weird for me to check out his site because
his project really mirrors my project to include the areas he removed
the plastic and the primer color, now he is using the same dolly for the
Fuselage so it looks even more like my garage!
>
>You can make some pretty nice rivets using the C-Frame to in effect
back rivet areas where it is impractical to use the back rivet plate.
Run your brake lines and transponder ant. (if your mounting it under the
tunnel) after the bottom skin is on prior to joining the mid section.
There are a lot of areas to watch out for over the next few chapters.
Especially the riveting of the upper/lower fwd longerons to the firewall
brackets. There is critical edge distance that clamping will prevent
problems when you get to that step. If you going to use metal eyeball
penetrations for your engine controls, don't follow Van's "Drill 3 each
5/8" holes in the recess", wait until you get the eyeballs to get proper
spacing.
>
>That all I can think of currently....I could go page by page with you
and point out a whole bunch of "and oh yeah on this step" stuff.
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>Fuse/Finish
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Where are people coming down on the decision of sticking with Van's cowl
"hinge" design, or going with Cam-lok type cowl fasteners?
Of the flying folks, anyone like to comment on the ease of use of the
hinge fastener design?
Thanks,
TDT
40025
Message 12
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| Subject: | RE: RV10-List Digest: Help on Engine Overhaul Options |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Joe Trampota" <jtrampota@eci2fly.com>
Another good place to look for an overhaul shop is to visit ECI's web
site.. On the home page www.eci2fly.com top index open up PSP where to
buy. A complete listing of all Major Engine Shops with direct links to
their sites / phone numbers / contacts etc.
JT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 9:18 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RE: RV10-List Digest: Help on Engine Overhaul
Options
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
You might talk to Allen Barrett at BPA (BPA@BPAENGINES.COM). I know
they have a test cell. The other stuff I don't know. You might also
try contacting the shop in OK, because they may have records, especially
based on the serial number of the engine, etc. Besides that, I can't
help much.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condon,
Philip M.
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 8:36 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RE: RV10-List Digest: Help on Engine Overhaul
Options
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condon, Philip M." <pcondon@mitre.org>
My I/O 540 C4B5/E4B5 (Carb or FI - haven't decided yet) needs a IRAN and
test cell run. I had the engine overhauled by a local known engine
rebuilder A&I 5 years ago. The Gentleman has subsequently moved to
Florida and has passed away and I have little to no proper paperwork on
the work he did. He was in the process of moving when he did the
overhaul and his records were shipped along with the contents of his
hanger. If I sell the engine I have no real paperwork to go along with
it. I know the case, crank, and cam went out to Oklahoma because I did
the shipping and return to the mechanic (along with the paperwork....)
Can anyone recommend any options or shops that do good work ? The usual
suspects want over 20,000$ to IRAN the engine which I feel is a little
pricy.
--
--
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl fasteners |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
I have had the hinges on my RV6 for 12 years, I would not trade them
with Cam-loks. The installation and operation of the hinges for RV10
is even easier due to the larger diameter cowl.
Do not archive.
On 4/18/06, Tim Dawson-Townsend <Tdawson@avidyne.com> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
> Where are people coming down on the decision of sticking with Van's cowl
> "hinge" design, or going with Cam-lok type cowl fasteners?
>
> Of the flying folks, anyone like to comment on the ease of use of the
> hinge fastener design?
>
> Thanks,
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: This thread is played out |
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resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
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Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl fasteners |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I was originally a big proponent of the concept of switching
to Camloc's. I didn't, because that would have slowed down
my build while trying to figure out exactly how I wanted to
do it, using the skybolt set, or smaller ones, and how many
and for how much cost. They aren't cheap, but they are
convenient.
Now that I've had my cowl on and off a few times, I can comment
better on the hinges though.
I'm very surprised at how easy it is to deal with the hinges.
The top ones you just loosen the holding bracket and pull
the pins, very quick. The horizontal ones are a simple
straight-in and out, very easy. The bottom cowl side pins
are also pretty simple. I did NOT go with lower pins,
but used nutplates and screws due to a large number of comments
on other RV's about how the eyelits wear on the hinges.
I'm glad I went the route I did for future issues.
So the cowl is very easy to remove and re-install, in regards
to the hinge pins. I do get a little black streaking coming
out my cowl seam from the aluminum of the hinges. I don't
know that it will get better, or worse, over time, but I'm
sure there will eventually be more play in the hinges. Long-term
I can see the hinges possibly being an issue for wear, and
replacing them might not be fun, and would maybe require a
cowl repaint. But I think it would be a long time to get
to that point of wear.
As far as the cowl going on and off, the lower cowl is
a real pain. There isn't much clearance to get it up and down,
with the spinner installed, and the FAB/inlet stuff isn't fun to
align and keeps the cowl from going on smoothly. It's a hard
job to do the lower cowl alone without banging things up....I
just did it yesterday. The top one is simple. I did
just change oil again too, with the lower cowl on. You have
to protect your hands from the hot crankcase and exhaust, but
it's definitely do-able with a quick-disconnect. I got a set
from ACS that had the valve and a matching latch-on hose
that works really well, and was pretty cheap I think.
For those deciding on props, you may have noticed the post
today regarding the 3 blade aerocomposite prop and it being
hard to remove and replace the lower cowl. I personally
haven't done a 3-blade, but I can definitely see the
issue. Even with my 2-blade, I have to make sure my
blades are horizontal or it can be a bear getting the cowl
off and on again. I can't even imagine how it would
be with 3 blades, although I'm sure it's something
that 3-blade owners will manage fine. I'm betting that
if 3-blade owners gave an honest statement, they'd
say that cowl removal sucks, but they love the prop. I'd
be suspicious if someone just says "no problem, easy"...
just call a spade a spade....doesn't mean the prop, or
the choice in props was bad. Just means there's a little
more story to go along with it.
So all in all, I'm more happy with the hinges than I
thought I'd be, although I recognize that some day
I might have to repaint the cowl after a hinge repair.
The cowl definitely looks the best with hinges, but
camlocs aren't awful looking either...just don't
try to paint them.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
> Where are people coming down on the decision of sticking with Van's cowl
> "hinge" design, or going with Cam-lok type cowl fasteners?
>
> Of the flying folks, anyone like to comment on the ease of use of the
> hinge fastener design?
>
> Thanks,
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
>
Message 16
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
I haven't yet started on my RV-10, but I can add to what Tim said about
the hinges. My RV-4 has the same type of cowling design, with piano
hinges. It has been flying since 1989 and the hinges have not shown any
appreciable wear. I concur with Tim that the bottom cowl is a real pain
to install by yourself, but with help it is not too bad. Unfortunately,
with the cheek cowls of the RV-4, it is not an option to leave the lower
cowl in place for oil changes - just not enough room to work.
Jack Phillips
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cowl fasteners
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I was originally a big proponent of the concept of switching
to Camloc's. I didn't, because that would have slowed down
my build while trying to figure out exactly how I wanted to
do it, using the skybolt set, or smaller ones, and how many
and for how much cost. They aren't cheap, but they are
convenient.
Now that I've had my cowl on and off a few times, I can comment
better on the hinges though.
I'm very surprised at how easy it is to deal with the hinges.
The top ones you just loosen the holding bracket and pull
the pins, very quick. The horizontal ones are a simple
straight-in and out, very easy. The bottom cowl side pins
are also pretty simple. I did NOT go with lower pins,
but used nutplates and screws due to a large number of comments
on other RV's about how the eyelits wear on the hinges.
I'm glad I went the route I did for future issues.
So the cowl is very easy to remove and re-install, in regards
to the hinge pins. I do get a little black streaking coming
out my cowl seam from the aluminum of the hinges. I don't
know that it will get better, or worse, over time, but I'm
sure there will eventually be more play in the hinges. Long-term
I can see the hinges possibly being an issue for wear, and
replacing them might not be fun, and would maybe require a
cowl repaint. But I think it would be a long time to get
to that point of wear.
As far as the cowl going on and off, the lower cowl is
a real pain. There isn't much clearance to get it up and down,
with the spinner installed, and the FAB/inlet stuff isn't fun to
align and keeps the cowl from going on smoothly. It's a hard
job to do the lower cowl alone without banging things up....I
just did it yesterday. The top one is simple. I did
just change oil again too, with the lower cowl on. You have
to protect your hands from the hot crankcase and exhaust, but
it's definitely do-able with a quick-disconnect. I got a set
from ACS that had the valve and a matching latch-on hose
that works really well, and was pretty cheap I think.
For those deciding on props, you may have noticed the post
today regarding the 3 blade aerocomposite prop and it being
hard to remove and replace the lower cowl. I personally
haven't done a 3-blade, but I can definitely see the
issue. Even with my 2-blade, I have to make sure my
blades are horizontal or it can be a bear getting the cowl
off and on again. I can't even imagine how it would
be with 3 blades, although I'm sure it's something
that 3-blade owners will manage fine. I'm betting that
if 3-blade owners gave an honest statement, they'd
say that cowl removal sucks, but they love the prop. I'd
be suspicious if someone just says "no problem, easy"...
just call a spade a spade....doesn't mean the prop, or
the choice in props was bad. Just means there's a little
more story to go along with it.
So all in all, I'm more happy with the hinges than I
thought I'd be, although I recognize that some day
I might have to repaint the cowl after a hinge repair.
The cowl definitely looks the best with hinges, but
camlocs aren't awful looking either...just don't
try to paint them.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Working together. For life.(sm)
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary,
or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error,
please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use
of the email by you is prohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - Norsk - Portuguese - Svenska: www.cardinalhealth.com/legal/email
Message 17
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
I second almost all of this. We put in nutplates and screw on the top cowl.
While it is simple and anybody can figure out how to do it easily, it is a
pain in the neck to take off all those screws. I think it looks kind of
cool with all of the SS screws and counter sunk washers, but it would look
cool with nothing too. We use the pins on the lower cowl and wouldn't
change that. On this one we are going pins just like the plans say, the
whole way. The bottom cowl is a bear and a half to get off, especially with
the front gear leg fairing installed. We should have left more of a gap
between the baffles and the cowl and possibly between the airbox and the
cowl. We change the oil with the bottom cowl on, with a quick drain from
Van's, but it would be nice if the bottom cowl came off easier. I also
couldn't imagine trying to do it with a 3-blade, but the plane looks better
with 3 blades and flies smoother. There are pros and cons to just about
everything.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cowl fasteners
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I was originally a big proponent of the concept of switching
to Camloc's. I didn't, because that would have slowed down
my build while trying to figure out exactly how I wanted to
do it, using the skybolt set, or smaller ones, and how many
and for how much cost. They aren't cheap, but they are
convenient.
Now that I've had my cowl on and off a few times, I can comment
better on the hinges though.
I'm very surprised at how easy it is to deal with the hinges.
The top ones you just loosen the holding bracket and pull
the pins, very quick. The horizontal ones are a simple
straight-in and out, very easy. The bottom cowl side pins
are also pretty simple. I did NOT go with lower pins,
but used nutplates and screws due to a large number of comments
on other RV's about how the eyelits wear on the hinges.
I'm glad I went the route I did for future issues.
So the cowl is very easy to remove and re-install, in regards
to the hinge pins. I do get a little black streaking coming
out my cowl seam from the aluminum of the hinges. I don't
know that it will get better, or worse, over time, but I'm
sure there will eventually be more play in the hinges. Long-term
I can see the hinges possibly being an issue for wear, and
replacing them might not be fun, and would maybe require a
cowl repaint. But I think it would be a long time to get
to that point of wear.
As far as the cowl going on and off, the lower cowl is
a real pain. There isn't much clearance to get it up and down,
with the spinner installed, and the FAB/inlet stuff isn't fun to
align and keeps the cowl from going on smoothly. It's a hard
job to do the lower cowl alone without banging things up....I
just did it yesterday. The top one is simple. I did
just change oil again too, with the lower cowl on. You have
to protect your hands from the hot crankcase and exhaust, but
it's definitely do-able with a quick-disconnect. I got a set
from ACS that had the valve and a matching latch-on hose
that works really well, and was pretty cheap I think.
For those deciding on props, you may have noticed the post
today regarding the 3 blade aerocomposite prop and it being
hard to remove and replace the lower cowl. I personally
haven't done a 3-blade, but I can definitely see the
issue. Even with my 2-blade, I have to make sure my
blades are horizontal or it can be a bear getting the cowl
off and on again. I can't even imagine how it would
be with 3 blades, although I'm sure it's something
that 3-blade owners will manage fine. I'm betting that
if 3-blade owners gave an honest statement, they'd
say that cowl removal sucks, but they love the prop. I'd
be suspicious if someone just says "no problem, easy"...
just call a spade a spade....doesn't mean the prop, or
the choice in props was bad. Just means there's a little
more story to go along with it.
So all in all, I'm more happy with the hinges than I
thought I'd be, although I recognize that some day
I might have to repaint the cowl after a hinge repair.
The cowl definitely looks the best with hinges, but
camlocs aren't awful looking either...just don't
try to paint them.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
<Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
> Where are people coming down on the decision of sticking with Van's cowl
> "hinge" design, or going with Cam-lok type cowl fasteners?
>
> Of the flying folks, anyone like to comment on the ease of use of the
> hinge fastener design?
>
> Thanks,
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
>
--
--
Message 18
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Thought some of you might like this feedback....
Note: for the photos, and this email in a web format, see this link:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/engine/PropBalance/index.html
Yesterday I had my prop balanced. It was done locally by
one of the owners of one of the main companies who build
the dynamic balancing equipment, who happens to live
right near my home base. (Dynamic Solutions systems) They
had done my Sundowner prop, so I called them again for
this one.
It's the 2-blade hartzell, for those who didn't know, so
it probably will never be as smooth as a 3-blade, but
balancing is definitely a big help towards smoothness.
As you can see by the attached chart, we did 3 engine-runs.
The first one the balance was out by .350 in/sec of
vibration. (the lowest circle on the graph)
We added a calibrated stack of washers and
bolt/nut to the ring gear in a specified location and
ran it again. It was then out, but a little less so,
and at a different angle (the 3 o'clock circle).
We then removed the weights and the machine calculated
the final solution, which was very small, equal to
only one bolt and small AN washer in one spot, and
one bolt and larger flat washer trimmed into a
2/3 moon shape on the other spot. We then
ran it again and got the results in the center.
As you can see the starting vibration was .350 in/sec,
but after balancing, it was reduced to .026 in/sec,
which is a huge reduction in overall vibration.
You feel it in the stick, and in the pedals, and it
was very reduced after the balance. We went for
a quick flight....not to test the plane but because
he wanted to see how the RV-10 flies, and I could feel
a difference there as well, and see it when I focused
hard on the panel. I paid attention a couple days ago
when flying to the visual vibration on areas that
I could see, knowing I'd be balancing the prop, and
you can actually see a difference.
Prop balancing usually costs between $150 and $175,
which is a small cost for what I think it gives you.
In addition to less buzzing vibration for the pilot,
imagine how much slower wires wear through
the insulation where they rub metal, and how much
reduced the stresses are on things like engine
mounts, glue joints, fiberglass/plexiglass
junctions where paint may crack, and all those other
things.
Just wanted to pass that along, since I've never actually
seen anyone else post data on balancing before...just
anecdotes, and I thought it would be interesting.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Tru Trak's RV10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer@verizon.net>
I like speed as well!! However, lets say the two blade is 10kts faster(??).
On a 3000nm trip the two blade guy will get there about an hour earlier.
That's nice, but the trade-offs you get with the three blade might not make
that 1 hr worth it. There are definately advantages/dissadvantages to both.
The question becomes prioritizing them, speed/weight/smoothness(on your 40k
engine)/ climb perf./ and of course looks. I will admit, taking the bottom
cowl off with the three blade is not easy. So far I am very happy with my
three blade MT. I know other guys are very happy with there blended
Hartzells. Fortunately for all of us, the airplane is still the best part of
this whole discussion. Cheers, Mark (55hrs)
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl fasteners |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer@verizon.net>
Hey Tim, I have the Camloc system on my 10. The big advantage is that I can
easily put on/ take off top and bottom cowl by myself. I can also do it in a
matter of minutes. Disadvantages are obviously the cost, not as clean
looking, and almost impossible not to eventually get a little scalloping
between the camlocs around the firewall. I never have used pins before, but
I can tell you the other guy on the field with a 10 has them and needs help
putting the cowl on due to its size. He definately has a cleaner look!!
Message 21
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
I think we'll put both a three-blade and a two-blade prop on for good
measure, on concentric counter-rotating shafts (a la Fairy Gannett or
Soviet Bear). That ought to be good for some attention at OSH! ; )
TDT
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Chamberlain
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tru Trak's RV10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain"
<10flyer@verizon.net>
I like speed as well!! However, lets say the two blade is 10kts
faster(??).
On a 3000nm trip the two blade guy will get there about an hour earlier.
That's nice, but the trade-offs you get with the three blade might not
make
that 1 hr worth it. There are definately advantages/dissadvantages to
both.
The question becomes prioritizing them, speed/weight/smoothness(on your
40k
engine)/ climb perf./ and of course looks. I will admit, taking the
bottom
cowl off with the three blade is not easy. So far I am very happy with
my
three blade MT. I know other guys are very happy with there blended
Hartzells. Fortunately for all of us, the airplane is still the best
part of
this whole discussion. Cheers, Mark (55hrs)
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Tru Trak's RV10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Mark, what is the issue in removing the bottom cowl with a 3 bld prop?
Deems
Mark Chamberlain wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer@verizon.net>
>
> I like speed as well!! However, lets say the two blade is 10kts
> faster(??). On a 3000nm trip the two blade guy will get there about an
> hour earlier. That's nice, but the trade-offs you get with the three
> blade might not make that 1 hr worth it. There are definately
> advantages/dissadvantages to both. The question becomes prioritizing
> them, speed/weight/smoothness(on your 40k engine)/ climb perf./ and of
> course looks. I will admit, taking the bottom cowl off with the three
> blade is not easy. So far I am very happy with my three blade MT. I
> know other guys are very happy with there blended Hartzells.
> Fortunately for all of us, the airplane is still the best part of this
> whole discussion. Cheers, Mark (55hrs)
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
Message 23
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
I haven't gotten far enough to look at costs. Has anyone done a
cost/performance/attribute comparison and got it on a spreadsheet somewhere?
John Jessen
~328 (deep in buildus interruptus once again, which is really getting
annoying.)
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Chamberlain
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tru Trak's RV10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain"
--> <10flyer@verizon.net>
I like speed as well!! However, lets say the two blade is 10kts faster(??).
On a 3000nm trip the two blade guy will get there about an hour earlier.
That's nice, but the trade-offs you get with the three blade might not make
that 1 hr worth it. There are definately advantages/dissadvantages to both.
The question becomes prioritizing them, speed/weight/smoothness(on your 40k
engine)/ climb perf./ and of course looks. I will admit, taking the bottom
cowl off with the three blade is not easy. So far I am very happy with my
three blade MT. I know other guys are very happy with there blended
Hartzells. Fortunately for all of us, the airplane is still the best part of
this whole discussion. Cheers, Mark (55hrs)
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Tru Trak's RV10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Amen to that Mark. There are so many varieties of EFIS / Engine / Prop
and everything else to choose from, but when it comes right down to
it, you're building a -10, so you're just gonna have a great plane,
period. (as long as you take the time to do good work)
And at certain times, you'll recognize the advantages and
disadvantages of all the choices, because every item has both.
But, you'll still be happy with your plane.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Mark Chamberlain wrote:
"Fortunately for all of us, the airplane is still the best part of this
whole discussion."
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl fasteners |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I don't follow one thing though.... You said you have an easy
time doing the top AND bottom cowl by yourself. I can't
see what would make it significant in regards to the pins
though.....it seems like the actual pinning or camloc
twisting is the easy part...the hard part is just getting that
bottom cowl up in place between the prop and engine, under
that rear cowl bracket, next to the gear leg, and have
it all line up.
Or did you do something unique and have a lower cowl mod
that makes it easier to get on an off? I'm just not sure
what I'm missing.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Mark Chamberlain wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer@verizon.net>
>
> Hey Tim, I have the Camloc system on my 10. The big advantage is that I
> can easily put on/ take off top and bottom cowl by myself. I can also do
> it in a matter of minutes. Disadvantages are obviously the cost, not as
> clean looking, and almost impossible not to eventually get a little
> scalloping between the camlocs around the firewall. I never have used
> pins before, but I can tell you the other guy on the field with a 10 has
> them and needs help putting the cowl on due to its size. He definately
> has a cleaner look!!
>
>
Message 26
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Andrew Barker" <Andrew@trutrakap.com>
I will second that Amen.
Andrew Barker
General Manager
TruTrak Flight Systems
"You build it...We fly it!"
PH:479-751-0250 Ext. 222
www.trutrakap.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tru Trak's RV10
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Amen to that Mark. There are so many varieties of EFIS / Engine / Prop
and everything else to choose from, but when it comes right down to
it, you're building a -10, so you're just gonna have a great plane,
period. (as long as you take the time to do good work)
And at certain times, you'll recognize the advantages and
disadvantages of all the choices, because every item has both.
But, you'll still be happy with your plane.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Mark Chamberlain wrote:
"Fortunately for all of us, the airplane is still the best part of this
whole discussion."
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Tru Trak's RV10 |
Andrew, when you are talking about your speed; are you discussing a GPS--4
corner run or a ground track run? What type of test are you running...it could
help us understand the speed numbers.
Message 28
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Guys, go to this web site regarding true airspeed testing. I've used it
for years. It's easy and very accurate.
http://reacomp.com/true_airspeed/
Tom Deutsch
Vice President
RHW Development and Construction Services
6704 W. 121st Street
Overland Park, Kansas 66209
Office 913 451-1222
Fax 913 451-6493
Cell 913 908-7752
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
GRANSCOTT@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tru Trak's RV10
Andrew, when you are talking about your speed; are you discussing a
GPS--4 corner run or a ground track run? What type of test are you
running...it could help us understand the speed numbers.
Message 29
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We did a 4 corner run.
Andrew Barker
General Manager
TruTrak Flight Systems
"You build it...We fly it!"
PH:479-751-0250 Ext. 222
www.trutrakap.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRANSCOTT@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tru Trak's RV10
Andrew, when you are talking about your speed; are you discussing a GPS--4
corner run or a ground track run? What type of test are you running...it
could help us understand the speed numbers.
Message 30
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| Subject: | Throttle, Prop, and Mixture cable slack |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Fellow listers,
I'm working on my firewall foreward and since I had already made some decisions
before the firewall foreward kit was available, I can't use the stock locations
for my throttle and mixture cables. The prop cable went in to the stock location
nicely with the one hole eyeball fitting.
There seems to be just a little slack in that cable - just enough to allow flexibility
to keep it out of the way.
How much should I have? Upon measuring the cables that I got for the throttle
and mixture after putting them in where I could, I have 6" too much throttle cable
and 7" too much mixture cable. These are straight shot from the panel/console
to the eyeball passthrough the firewall. on the firewall side, I have sufficient
'Lycoming wet dog shake room'. I'm thinking on the aft side of the
firewall, I don't need much wiggle room other than to avoid stuff that could get
in the way and wear the cable.
Your thoughts please,
Ralph
RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 - fun firewall foreward!
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Our EAA chapter bought one of these (DSS Microvibe II) and with the purchase
comes factory training, which four of us went through. We've balanced 40+
member's props now and can certainly speak to what a benefit it is. Looking
over all the data from these jobs is very interesting, but the point I think
Tim is making is important... get your prop balanced!
BTW, here's a link to info on our chapter program, other chapter might want
to consider this...
http://www.eaa105.org/Resources/resources.htm#PropBalancing
There's a link to our log which shows the results also. Compare the results
to the table on the page, interesting reading. You may see that Randy DeBauw
is one of our members and we balanced his bird as well. Ask him, I think he
felt the difference.
The complete system is about $6,000.
Randy Lervold
EAA Chapter 105, President
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 9:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Prop Balancing
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Thought some of you might like this feedback....
>
> Note: for the photos, and this email in a web format, see this link:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/engine/PropBalance/index.html
>
> Yesterday I had my prop balanced. It was done locally by
> one of the owners of one of the main companies who build
> the dynamic balancing equipment, who happens to live
> right near my home base. (Dynamic Solutions systems) They
> had done my Sundowner prop, so I called them again for
> this one.
>
> It's the 2-blade hartzell, for those who didn't know, so
> it probably will never be as smooth as a 3-blade, but
> balancing is definitely a big help towards smoothness.
>
> As you can see by the attached chart, we did 3 engine-runs.
> The first one the balance was out by .350 in/sec of
> vibration. (the lowest circle on the graph)
> We added a calibrated stack of washers and
> bolt/nut to the ring gear in a specified location and
> ran it again. It was then out, but a little less so,
> and at a different angle (the 3 o'clock circle).
> We then removed the weights and the machine calculated
> the final solution, which was very small, equal to
> only one bolt and small AN washer in one spot, and
> one bolt and larger flat washer trimmed into a
> 2/3 moon shape on the other spot. We then
> ran it again and got the results in the center.
>
> As you can see the starting vibration was .350 in/sec,
> but after balancing, it was reduced to .026 in/sec,
> which is a huge reduction in overall vibration.
> You feel it in the stick, and in the pedals, and it
> was very reduced after the balance. We went for
> a quick flight....not to test the plane but because
> he wanted to see how the RV-10 flies, and I could feel
> a difference there as well, and see it when I focused
> hard on the panel. I paid attention a couple days ago
> when flying to the visual vibration on areas that
> I could see, knowing I'd be balancing the prop, and
> you can actually see a difference.
>
> Prop balancing usually costs between $150 and $175,
> which is a small cost for what I think it gives you.
> In addition to less buzzing vibration for the pilot,
> imagine how much slower wires wear through
> the insulation where they rub metal, and how much
> reduced the stresses are on things like engine
> mounts, glue joints, fiberglass/plexiglass
> junctions where paint may crack, and all those other
> things.
>
> Just wanted to pass that along, since I've never actually
> seen anyone else post data on balancing before...just
> anecdotes, and I thought it would be interesting.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Starting on firewall - gotchas? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
LOL....I thought everyone forgot about my claim to never having to drill out a
bad rivet. For old times sake I'll stick to that story!!
Rick
do not archive
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cowl fasteners |
Take a peek at Randy Lervold's site, he is using the SKybolt C-loks. I am leaning
this way although not flying yet. He specs out the correct PN's of the recepticles,
studs etc. I think they are a better but albeit a tad more expensive
than the hinge route.
Heres a link:
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/airframe.htm
I really like the way they look and should outlast the hinges without any problem.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse/Finish
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Wow Randy, that is a great program for your club members, and
a great deal as well. You sure did a good job of compiling
some data. Surprisingly to me, you guys actually balanced out
yours even better than mine came out. At the difference between
.01X and .02X, I'm sure it gets down to basically nil, but
it's apparent that you do a good job and take your time.
Thanks for posting some good data. Data is hard to come
by sometimes, and you did a fantastic job!
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Randy Lervold wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>
> Our EAA chapter bought one of these (DSS Microvibe II) and with the
> purchase comes factory training, which four of us went through. We've
> balanced 40+ member's props now and can certainly speak to what a
> benefit it is. Looking over all the data from these jobs is very
> interesting, but the point I think Tim is making is important... get
> your prop balanced!
>
> BTW, here's a link to info on our chapter program, other chapter might
> want to consider this...
> http://www.eaa105.org/Resources/resources.htm#PropBalancing
> There's a link to our log which shows the results also. Compare the
> results to the table on the page, interesting reading. You may see that
> Randy DeBauw is one of our members and we balanced his bird as well. Ask
> him, I think he felt the difference.
>
> The complete system is about $6,000.
>
> Randy Lervold
> EAA Chapter 105, President
> www.rv-3.com
> www.rv-8.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 9:17 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Prop Balancing
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> Thought some of you might like this feedback....
>>
>> Note: for the photos, and this email in a web format, see this link:
>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/engine/PropBalance/index.html
>>
>> Yesterday I had my prop balanced. It was done locally by
>> one of the owners of one of the main companies who build
>> the dynamic balancing equipment, who happens to live
>> right near my home base. (Dynamic Solutions systems) They
>> had done my Sundowner prop, so I called them again for
>> this one.
>>
>> It's the 2-blade hartzell, for those who didn't know, so
>> it probably will never be as smooth as a 3-blade, but
>> balancing is definitely a big help towards smoothness.
>>
>> As you can see by the attached chart, we did 3 engine-runs.
>> The first one the balance was out by .350 in/sec of
>> vibration. (the lowest circle on the graph)
>> We added a calibrated stack of washers and
>> bolt/nut to the ring gear in a specified location and
>> ran it again. It was then out, but a little less so,
>> and at a different angle (the 3 o'clock circle).
>> We then removed the weights and the machine calculated
>> the final solution, which was very small, equal to
>> only one bolt and small AN washer in one spot, and
>> one bolt and larger flat washer trimmed into a
>> 2/3 moon shape on the other spot. We then
>> ran it again and got the results in the center.
>>
>> As you can see the starting vibration was .350 in/sec,
>> but after balancing, it was reduced to .026 in/sec,
>> which is a huge reduction in overall vibration.
>> You feel it in the stick, and in the pedals, and it
>> was very reduced after the balance. We went for
>> a quick flight....not to test the plane but because
>> he wanted to see how the RV-10 flies, and I could feel
>> a difference there as well, and see it when I focused
>> hard on the panel. I paid attention a couple days ago
>> when flying to the visual vibration on areas that
>> I could see, knowing I'd be balancing the prop, and
>> you can actually see a difference.
>>
>> Prop balancing usually costs between $150 and $175,
>> which is a small cost for what I think it gives you.
>> In addition to less buzzing vibration for the pilot,
>> imagine how much slower wires wear through
>> the insulation where they rub metal, and how much
>> reduced the stresses are on things like engine
>> mounts, glue joints, fiberglass/plexiglass
>> junctions where paint may crack, and all those other
>> things.
>>
>> Just wanted to pass that along, since I've never actually
>> seen anyone else post data on balancing before...just
>> anecdotes, and I thought it would be interesting.
>>
>> --
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Starting on firewall - gotchas? |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
Message 36
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I have a guy here in Ecuador who makes little models of planes like Tim
Olson has of his -10. He has made them for us and the workmanship is first
rate, even down to the antennas. He has 3 -10=92s made, just needs to be
painted. If anybody is interest
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
--
Message 37
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I have a guy here in Ecuador who makes little models of planes like Tim
Olson has of his -10. He has made them for us and the workmanship is first
rate, even down to the antennas. He has 3 -10=92s made, just needs to be
painted. If anybody is interested in one of these, I think I can get them
bought and shipped to you in the US quite reasonably. Please contact me off
the list if you are interested. You would need to send me pictures of your
paint scheme (as many views as you want details on the model).
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
--
Message 38
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Members,
Does anyone know the power required for the Vans flap motor?
Ideally I'd like to know the max steady state current draw in flight and the circuit
breaker rating?
Thanks
Dave Hertner #40164
Emp Complete
QB Fus and Wings Ordered
Message 39
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Do you have a cost delivered (or flown) to the US?
Robin
10 on order
Do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 4:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Model
I have a guy here in Ecuador who makes little models of planes like Tim
Olson has of his -10. He has made them for us and the workmanship is
first rate, even down to the antennas. He has 3 -10's made, just needs
to be painted. If anybody is interest
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
--
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl fasteners |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer@verizon.net>
Maybe this is specific to how my cowl worked out, but once I've posisitioned
the bottom half ( It sorta hangs on the baffle material around the air box)
I can easily fasten the top camloc on each side of the bottom cowl. It then
hangs by itself. Now it is a simple task to position the top and then go
through a sequence of fastening each camloc with a quarter turn. Of course I
still have the screws on either side of the spinner and under the cowl near
the fuselage. Mark
Message 41
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I think I can get it done, painted, and delivered as soon as the end of next
week in the States (depending on how close you are to Virginia) for about
$150. I would just need pictures (or drawings) with as much detail as
possible, and whether you want the moving parts painted (ie: doors outlined,
control surfaces, baggage door, etc.). Tim had that done on his, but we did
ours without it. I think it looks better without it, personally.
I would also need to know info like N-number, names that you want on the
base, etc.
Let me know. I can get the guy to make more if you want to wait a while,
but it would take longer to get them in.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 7:05 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Model
Do you have a cost delivered (or flown) to the US?
Robin
10 on order
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 4:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Model
I have a guy here in Ecuador who makes little models of planes like Tim
Olson has of his -10. He has made them for us and the workmanship is first
rate, even down to the antennas. He has 3 -10=92s made, just needs to be
painted. If anybody is interest
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
--
--
--
Message 42
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| Subject: | IO540 power curve |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
Hello everyone. My 10 is being inspected on Thursday and the first
flight is scheduled for Saturday. In the hustle to get the plane
ready for inspection, I neglected to purchase a Lycoming engine
operating handbook. I am looking for the power curve (or any info) on
RPM/Manifold press/outside temp to set the HP for correct engine
break-in.
I am specifically intersted in 65% and 75% power info.
I will greatly appreciate it If anyone can scan and email me the info
directly (save others from a pdf file).
I will keep everyone posted on the first flight.
do not archive
Thanks
Rob
flysrv10 at gmail dot com
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Tru Trak's RV10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer@verizon.net>
The cowl is so big that the top ( side ) edges of the bottom cowl have
trouble clearing the two blades facing 4 & 8 o'clock position. I put plastic
guards on those two blades before I pull the cowl to prevent damage to them.
I have now figured out to lengthen the slot in the bottom cowl over the nose
gear strut fairing to allow the cowl to slide up that fairing with more
clearance. This gives more clearance on the blades. I will eventually make a
plate to cover this elongated slot. I have seen several RV-9As with this
set-up. Mark.
Message 44
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Sorry, didn=92t mean to send that to the list. I thought I was replying to an
personal e-mail address.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 7:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Model
I think I can get it done, painted, and delivered as soon as the end of next
week in the States (depending on how close you are to Virginia) for about
$150. I would just need pictures (or drawings) with as much detail as
possible, and whether you want the moving parts painted (ie: doors outlined,
control surfaces, baggage door, etc.). Tim had that done on his, but we did
ours without it. I think it looks better without it, personally.
I would also need to know info like N-number, names that you want on the
base, etc.
Let me know. I can get the guy to make more if you want to wait a while,
but it would take longer to get them in.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 7:05 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Model
Do you have a cost delivered (or flown) to the US?
Robin
10 on order
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 4:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Model
I have a guy here in Ecuador who makes little models of planes like Tim
Olson has of his -10. He has made them for us and the workmanship is first
rate, even down to the antennas. He has 3 -10=92s made, just needs to be
painted. If anybody is interest
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
--
--
--
--
--
Message 45
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|
To make an accurate model of mine he would have to make the wings removable...and
the tail...and the roof.....and paint it in plain aluminum. Maybe I should
just get back in touch in a few months.
Evan///
do not archive :)
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 5:16 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Model
I think I can get it done, painted, and delivered as soon as the end of next
week in the States (depending on how close you are to Virginia) for about $150.
I would just need pictures (or drawings) with as much detail as possible, and
whether you want the moving parts painted (ie: doors outlined, control surfaces,
baggage door, etc.). Tim had that done on his, but we did ours without
it. I think it looks better without it, personally.
I would also need to know info like N-number, names that you want on the base,
etc.
Let me know. I can get the guy to make more if you want to wait a while, but
it would take longer to get them in.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 7:05 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Model
Do you have a cost delivered (or flown) to the US?
Robin
10 on order
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 4:47 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Model
I have a guy here in Ecuador who makes little models of planes like Tim Olson
has of his -10. He has made them for us and the workmanship is first rate, even
down to the antennas. He has 3 -10=92s made, just needs to be painted. If
anybody is interest
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
--
--
--
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Re: IO540 power curve |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Is any of the stuff here good enough to do what you want?
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/engine_IO540.html
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rob Kermanj wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
>
> Hello everyone. My 10 is being inspected on Thursday and the first
> flight is scheduled for Saturday. In the hustle to get the plane
> ready for inspection, I neglected to purchase a Lycoming engine
> operating handbook. I am looking for the power curve (or any info) on
> RPM/Manifold press/outside temp to set the HP for correct engine
> break-in.
>
> I am specifically intersted in 65% and 75% power info.
>
> I will greatly appreciate it If anyone can scan and email me the info
> directly (save others from a pdf file).
>
> I will keep everyone posted on the first flight.
>
> do not archive
> Thanks
> Rob
> flysrv10 at gmail dot com
>
>
Message 47
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If you are using the flap positioning system they specify a 5A breaker however
I had already installed a 10A breaker. I have since returned the FPS to Van's
and purchased a DPDT switch from McMaster Carr which is momentary on for down
and on-off for up and center position off (flaps not moving).
----- Original Message -----
From: David Hertner
To: RV10-List@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 4:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Flap Motor
Members,
Does anyone know the power required for the Vans flap motor?
Ideally I'd like to know the max steady state current draw in flight and the
circuit breaker rating?
Thanks
Dave Hertner #40164
Emp Complete
QB Fus and Wings Ordered
Message 48
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Evan -
Are you sure that's your airplane?
Sounds like mine.:-)
neal
To make an accurate model of mine he would have to make the wings
removable...and the tail...and the roof.....and paint it in plain
aluminum. Maybe I should just get back in touch in a few months.
Evan///
do not archive :)
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Thanks Tim. I need to update the log, we have another 6-8 jobs we've done
over the winter, I'll try to do that tonight. The standard or goal we've set
for ourselves is .02 IPS or better and as you can see we usually get there,
sometimes even better.
Some of these guys have been flying around for hundreds of hours with a .4
error so. Those are the fun ones to do, it's a revelation for them!
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 3:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prop Balancing
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Wow Randy, that is a great program for your club members, and
> a great deal as well. You sure did a good job of compiling
> some data. Surprisingly to me, you guys actually balanced out
> yours even better than mine came out. At the difference between
> .01X and .02X, I'm sure it gets down to basically nil, but
> it's apparent that you do a good job and take your time.
>
> Thanks for posting some good data. Data is hard to come
> by sometimes, and you did a fantastic job!
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Randy Lervold wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>>
>> Our EAA chapter bought one of these (DSS Microvibe II) and with the
>> purchase comes factory training, which four of us went through. We've
>> balanced 40+ member's props now and can certainly speak to what a benefit
>> it is. Looking over all the data from these jobs is very interesting, but
>> the point I think Tim is making is important... get your prop balanced!
>>
>> BTW, here's a link to info on our chapter program, other chapter might
>> want to consider this...
>> http://www.eaa105.org/Resources/resources.htm#PropBalancing
>> There's a link to our log which shows the results also. Compare the
>> results to the table on the page, interesting reading. You may see that
>> Randy DeBauw is one of our members and we balanced his bird as well. Ask
>> him, I think he felt the difference.
>>
>> The complete system is about $6,000.
>>
>> Randy Lervold
>> EAA Chapter 105, President
>> www.rv-3.com
>> www.rv-8.com
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 9:17 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Prop Balancing
>>
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>
>>> Thought some of you might like this feedback....
>>>
>>> Note: for the photos, and this email in a web format, see this link:
>>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/engine/PropBalance/index.html
>>>
>>> Yesterday I had my prop balanced. It was done locally by
>>> one of the owners of one of the main companies who build
>>> the dynamic balancing equipment, who happens to live
>>> right near my home base. (Dynamic Solutions systems) They
>>> had done my Sundowner prop, so I called them again for
>>> this one.
>>>
>>> It's the 2-blade hartzell, for those who didn't know, so
>>> it probably will never be as smooth as a 3-blade, but
>>> balancing is definitely a big help towards smoothness.
>>>
>>> As you can see by the attached chart, we did 3 engine-runs.
>>> The first one the balance was out by .350 in/sec of
>>> vibration. (the lowest circle on the graph)
>>> We added a calibrated stack of washers and
>>> bolt/nut to the ring gear in a specified location and
>>> ran it again. It was then out, but a little less so,
>>> and at a different angle (the 3 o'clock circle).
>>> We then removed the weights and the machine calculated
>>> the final solution, which was very small, equal to
>>> only one bolt and small AN washer in one spot, and
>>> one bolt and larger flat washer trimmed into a
>>> 2/3 moon shape on the other spot. We then
>>> ran it again and got the results in the center.
>>>
>>> As you can see the starting vibration was .350 in/sec,
>>> but after balancing, it was reduced to .026 in/sec,
>>> which is a huge reduction in overall vibration.
>>> You feel it in the stick, and in the pedals, and it
>>> was very reduced after the balance. We went for
>>> a quick flight....not to test the plane but because
>>> he wanted to see how the RV-10 flies, and I could feel
>>> a difference there as well, and see it when I focused
>>> hard on the panel. I paid attention a couple days ago
>>> when flying to the visual vibration on areas that
>>> I could see, knowing I'd be balancing the prop, and
>>> you can actually see a difference.
>>>
>>> Prop balancing usually costs between $150 and $175,
>>> which is a small cost for what I think it gives you.
>>> In addition to less buzzing vibration for the pilot,
>>> imagine how much slower wires wear through
>>> the insulation where they rub metal, and how much
>>> reduced the stresses are on things like engine
>>> mounts, glue joints, fiberglass/plexiglass
>>> junctions where paint may crack, and all those other
>>> things.
>>>
>>> Just wanted to pass that along, since I've never actually
>>> seen anyone else post data on balancing before...just
>>> anecdotes, and I thought it would be interesting.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
Message 50
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Thank you!
John
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Barker
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 6:59 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tru Trak's RV10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Andrew Barker" <Andrew@trutrakap.com>
Ok, here are the numbers that we got from our test flights earlier in
the
year. We could not remember the air temp. Engine is IO-540 prop is
Aero
Composite 3 Blade. The 10 is unpainted.
At 7800' - 23" - 2300 RPM - 196 MPH. We both question this number
because
it just doesn't seem like we should be able to get 23 inches of manifold
pressure at 7800'. But that is what the EIS was showing. We also did
not
have a fuel flow at this altitude. When we increased the RPM to 2400 we
got
202 MPH.
Now at 1000' - 21.5" - 2400 RPM - 14 GPH - 196 MPH. Once again these
are
the numbers that we saw. They don't seem quite right given the manifold
pressure just seems too high for the altitudes.
We are planning another round of testing in the future and I will post
the
numbers as we complete the tests.
We are VERY pleased with the Aero Composite prop. Flying the 10 with
the
540 and 3 blade is amazing. The 6 cylinder and 3 blade combo are so
very
smooth that you think that you are in a turbine. The only thing that I
don't like about the 3 blade is taking the danged cowling off and
putting it
back on!
Oh and for those that wish to know we have about 90 hours on the 10 now
and
it is a fantastic aircraft.
Andrew Barker
General Manager
TruTrak Flight Systems
"You build it...We fly it!"
PH:479-751-0250 Ext. 222
www.trutrakap.com
Message 51
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Mark you will have to spell out for this ole dog how a 10kt advantage on
a 3,000 mile trip would payout 1 hour of benefit. Both aircraft will
need to refuel and climb back up to cruise in the same approximate
timing. The 3 blade will climb faster and easier getting up to thinner
air and faster speeds and will lose some of the earned advantage at
altitude (in cruise). The 3 blade provides an edge in weather avoidance
and rapid descent.
A 10 knot advantage in a 300 mile trip is more likely. The two blade
owner will replace avionics more frequently, have his fillings replaced
and deal with stress cracks sooner. The 3 blade owner is more likely to
get complacent with the easy chair ride. It should all wash out when he
goes to remove that lower cowl and the 2 blade pilot is smiling at the
window at OSH, buying his ticket first.
We all need to take Tim's advise and get the vibrations to a minimum
while listening to the Beach Boys.
John Cox
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Chamberlain
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 10:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tru Trak's RV10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain"
<10flyer@verizon.net>
I like speed as well!! However, lets say the two blade is 10kts
faster(??).
On a 3000nm trip the two blade guy will get there about an hour earlier.
That's nice, but the trade-offs you get with the three blade might not
make
that 1 hr worth it. There are definately advantages/dissadvantages to
both.
The question becomes prioritizing them, speed/weight/smoothness(on your
40k
engine)/ climb perf./ and of course looks. I will admit, taking the
bottom
cowl off with the three blade is not easy. So far I am very happy with
my
three blade MT. I know other guys are very happy with there blended
Hartzells. Fortunately for all of us, the airplane is still the best
part of
this whole discussion. Cheers, Mark (55hrs)
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