Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:21 AM - Rear floor pans (McGANN, Ron)
2. 04:21 AM - Re: IO540 power curve (Rob Kermanj)
3. 04:39 AM - Re: Rear floor pans (Rob Kermanj)
4. 05:10 AM - Re: Rear floor pans (PJ Seipel)
5. 05:40 AM - Re: Rear floor pans (David McNeill)
6. 06:49 AM - Re: Tru Trak's RV10 (Mark Chamberlain)
7. 09:58 AM - RV Assembly Workshop (Phillips, Jack)
8. 10:03 AM - empty weight (Rob Kermanj)
9. 10:25 AM - Re: RV Assembly Workshop (Phil Hall)
10. 10:36 AM - Re: RV Assembly Workshop (John Jessen)
11. 10:40 AM - Rudder Position/Strobe Mounting Plate (Rich & Karol Hansen)
12. 11:04 AM - rear wing spar dimpled? (Chris Johnston)
13. 11:07 AM - bottom wing skin overlap (Chris Johnston)
14. 12:20 PM - Re: bottom wing skin overlap (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
15. 02:09 PM - Re: Rudder Position/Strobe Mounting Plate (John Hasbrouck)
16. 02:32 PM - Re: RV Assembly Workshop (Dan Masys)
17. 03:25 PM - Re: RV Assembly Workshop (Robert G. Wright)
18. 03:38 PM - Re: Rudder Position/Strobe Mounting Plate (David Hertner)
19. 03:41 PM - Re: bottom wing skin overlap (Tim Olson)
20. 04:04 PM - Re: bottom wing skin overlap (Chris Johnston)
21. 04:11 PM - panel (Robert G. Wright)
22. 05:21 PM - Re: Rudder Position/Strobe Mounting Plate (Jay Rowe)
23. 06:47 PM - Re: panel (Russell Daves)
24. 06:50 PM - Re: panel (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
25. 07:02 PM - Re: panel (Richard Sipp)
26. 07:21 PM - Re: RV Assembly Workshop (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
27. 08:26 PM - Re: RV Assembly Workshop (JSMcGrew@AOL.COM)
28. 08:29 PM - Re: panel (Stein Bruch)
Message 1
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Hi all,
Listers have previously reported some issues with 'impossible rivets' on the rear
floor pans - but I can't even get to that point. I am having some trouble
fitting the F-1016C rear floor pans. It seems a fair bit of force is required
to insert these panels to get the flanges past the seat belt attachand point.
Once they are in place, there does not appear to be any way that they will
come out - especially if there are any shop heads on the F1005A assembly. Has
anyone else had trouble here? Is there a trick to inserting/removing these?
thanks in advance
Ron
#187
fuse, finishing on the way.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: IO540 power curve |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
Yes, Thank you!
Do not archive
On 4/18/06, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Is any of the stuff here good enough to do what you want?
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/engine_IO540.html
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Rob Kermanj wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
> >
> > Hello everyone. My 10 is being inspected on Thursday and the first
> > flight is scheduled for Saturday. In the hustle to get the plane
> > ready for inspection, I neglected to purchase a Lycoming engine
> > operating handbook. I am looking for the power curve (or any info) on
> > RPM/Manifold press/outside temp to set the HP for correct engine
> > break-in.
> >
> > I am specifically intersted in 65% and 75% power info.
> >
> > I will greatly appreciate it If anyone can scan and email me the info
> > directly (save others from a pdf file).
> >
> > I will keep everyone posted on the first flight.
> >
> > do not archive
> > Thanks
> > Rob
> > flysrv10 at gmail dot com
> >
> >
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rear floor pans |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
I can only tell you that I had the same problems. It has been long
and I remember that I had to man-handle the thing to get it in. I
can't tell you the installtion sequence since I was piXXed at the
time!
Do not archive
On 4/19/06, McGANN, Ron <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Listers have previously reported some issues with 'impossible rivets' on the
rear floor pans - but I can't even get to that point. I am having some trouble
fitting the F-1016C rear floor pans. It seems a fair bit of force is required
to insert these panels to get the flanges past the seat belt attachand point.
Once they are in place, there does not appear to be any way that they will
come out - especially if there are any shop heads on the F1005A assembly. Has
anyone else had trouble here? Is there a trick to inserting/removing these?
>
> thanks in advance
>
> Ron
> #187
> fuse, finishing on the way.
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Rear floor pans |
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
Just did those the other day. The key is to go slowly to avoid bending
them. If possible, have a helper to force apart the side ribs so you
can get the floor pans past the seatbelt anchors. To get them out, I
put cleco's into the #19 nutplate holes, and lifted it up enough to get
several into the #30 holes. I took some popsicle sticks and ground the
ends to make little wedges and used them along the sides and back to
help get the floor pan past the rivets and ribs.
PJ
RV-10 #40032
McGANN wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Listers have previously reported some issues with 'impossible rivets' on the
rear floor pans - but I can't even get to that point. I am having some trouble
fitting the F-1016C rear floor pans. It seems a fair bit of force is required
to insert these panels to get the flanges past the seat belt attachand point.
Once they are in place, there does not appear to be any way that they will
come out - especially if there are any shop heads on the F1005A assembly. Has
anyone else had trouble here? Is there a trick to inserting/removing these?
>
> thanks in advance
>
> Ron
> #187
> fuse, finishing on the way.
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rear floor pans |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
they lift out with difficulty from the rear; use several pieces of .020
aluminum strips so that the rear flange slip over the rear spar forward
edge. Make sure you pop the holes for the forward flange through the main
spar web before removing them now; that way you will be able to clean and
deburr before final rear floor installation.
----- Original Message -----
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 4:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear floor pans
Hi all,
Listers have previously reported some issues with 'impossible rivets' on the
rear floor pans - but I can't even get to that point. I am having some
trouble fitting the F-1016C rear floor pans. It seems a fair bit of force
is required to insert these panels to get the flanges past the seat belt
attachand point. Once they are in place, there does not appear to be any
way that they will come out - especially if there are any shop heads on the
F1005A assembly. Has anyone else had trouble here? Is there a trick to
inserting/removing these?
thanks in advance
Ron
#187
fuse, finishing on the way.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Tru Trak's RV10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer@verizon.net>
You're right!! It was a wag! I was just trying to say that I personally
don't care about top speed all that much. I should have known that some of
you more technically minded people would call me on it.
Message 7
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| Subject: | RV Assembly Workshop |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
As a prospective RV-10 builder, I have a question of this group: Have
any of you taken the EAA Sportair Workshop on RV Assembly, and if so,
how helpful was it? I've built an airplane before, but have not done a
lot of sheetmetal work, and my wife has only bucked a handful of rivets.
I can teach her, but wondered if this group recommends the workshops or
to just dive in and get started.
Jack Phillips
Raleigh, NC
Working together. For life.(sm)
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary,
or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error,
please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use
of the email by you is prohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - Norsk - Portuguese - Svenska: www.cardinalhealth.com/legal/email
Message 8
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
Hello everyone. Just weight my plane, empty, no paint. 1558 pounds.
I wonder how it compares with the guys taht are flying.
Do not archive.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RV Assembly Workshop |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Phil Hall <phil@asibuildings.com>
Jack,
I built a couple of wood, tube and fabric planes before the 10 but had not
done much metal work. I took the workshop and came out feeling very
comfortable with my new found metal skills and went to work.
Phil
40122, interior and final plumbing
At 12:55 PM 4/19/2006 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack"
<Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
>
>As a prospective RV-10 builder, I have a question of this group: Have
>any of you taken the EAA Sportair Workshop on RV Assembly, and if so,
>how helpful was it? I've built an airplane before, but have not done a
>lot of sheetmetal work, and my wife has only bucked a handful of rivets.
>I can teach her, but wondered if this group recommends the workshops or
>to just dive in and get started.
>
>Jack Phillips
>Raleigh, NC
>
>Working together. For life.(sm)
>_________________________________________________
>
>This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain
privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have
received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the
original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited.
>
>Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands -
Norsk - Portuguese - Svenska: www.cardinalhealth.com/legal/email
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | RV Assembly Workshop |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
I took the EAA workshop on building aluminum planes and found it best for
the truly uninitiated. I learned a few things, but nothing that helped me
take what I already knew to the next level. I've learned more since from my
technical advisor. The workshop I took may be different than the one
designed specifically for RV's. Drop a line to our new guru of such things,
Dan Checkoway. He'll have an opinion or two. Dan?
John Jessen
RV-10 Tailcone
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillips, Jack
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 12:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV Assembly Workshop
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack"
--> <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
As a prospective RV-10 builder, I have a question of this group: Have any
of you taken the EAA Sportair Workshop on RV Assembly, and if so, how
helpful was it? I've built an airplane before, but have not done a lot of
sheetmetal work, and my wife has only bucked a handful of rivets.
I can teach her, but wondered if this group recommends the workshops or to
just dive in and get started.
Jack Phillips
Raleigh, NC
Working together. For life.(sm)
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain
privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have
received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the
original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands -
Norsk - Portuguese - Svenska: www.cardinalhealth.com/legal/email
Message 11
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| Subject: | Rudder Position/Strobe Mounting Plate |
Has anyone come across a mounting plate or bracket that will fit inside the rudder
fairing and secure the A500 Position/Strobe? I had this same problem on my
6A ten years ago and DID find one! It has worked great, was easy to install
and comes with the two nuts welded to it to secure the A500 assembly. Cannot
find receipt where I got it - was only 10 or 15 dollars. Any help would be
appreciated. Rich Hansen
Message 12
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| Subject: | rear wing spar dimpled? |
ok all, here's a dumb question...
i'm off all week, working on the airplane. i'm reading and re-reading the directions
for the bottom wing skin install, and i don't see anywhere where it says
to dimple the rear wing spar. is this just one of those things that they expect
reasonably intelligent people to figure out on their own? what does that
say about me?
on a lighter note, we finished the second fuel tank yesterday! i could positively
freak out with joy. by the by, i used the Skysports capacitive fuel senders,
and they look like they'll work great. i've got them bent so they go diagonally
through the inboard two bays, so they should get a pretty accurate measurement.
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
Message 13
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| Subject: | bottom wing skin overlap |
while i'm on the subject -
i'm looking at the overlap in the bottom wing skins and wondering if i really want
to work the joint as fully as i did the top skins. anyone have any thoughts
or opinions on this?
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
Message 14
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| Subject: | bottom wing skin overlap |
I didn't bother at all. It's not a requirement and is really an appearance issue.
I figure I can clean it up with a little bondo before paint.
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 1:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: bottom wing skin overlap
while i'm on the subject -
i'm looking at the overlap in the bottom wing skins and wondering if i really want
to work the joint as fully as i did the top skins. anyone have any thoughts
or opinions on this?
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Position/Strobe Mounting Plate |
Rich,
I made a mounting plate from .040 scrap and used nutserts ( #4 ) in the plate
corresponding to the mounting holes in the light. Epoxied the plate onto the
rudder fairing. Looks like it will work great! Mounting plate fits just inside
the outer shell of the light.
John Hasbrouck #40264
fuselage
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: RV Assembly Workshop |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
>
> As a prospective RV-10 builder, I have a question of this group: Have
> any of you taken the EAA Sportair Workshop on RV Assembly, and if so,
> how helpful was it? I've built an airplane before, but have not done a
> lot of sheetmetal work, and my wife has only bucked a handful of rivets.
> I can teach her, but wondered if this group recommends the workshops or
> to just dive in and get started.
Maybe I get a minute of fame here for saying that Dan Checkoway and I took the
RV building workshop together back in 2001 (even parked my C182 next to his Mooney
when we both flew into Corona for the event.)
I was already about a month into building the -7 and have to say I didn't really
learn that many new manual skills, though it was a great place to ask newbie
questions. However, the best part was that I took my wife along and it made
a dramatic difference in her ownership of the project and willingness to serve
as "Rosie the Riveter." For that alone it was worth the price of admission.
-Dan Masys
#40448
Message 17
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| Subject: | RV Assembly Workshop |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
I did the regular sheetmetal workshop instead of the RV one. Good class.
I've taught my wife to buck rivets so you're already way ahead....
Rob #392
Awaiting QB ship.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillips, Jack
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 11:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RV Assembly Workshop
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack"
<Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
As a prospective RV-10 builder, I have a question of this group: Have
any of you taken the EAA Sportair Workshop on RV Assembly, and if so,
how helpful was it? I've built an airplane before, but have not done a
lot of sheetmetal work, and my wife has only bucked a handful of rivets.
I can teach her, but wondered if this group recommends the workshops or
to just dive in and get started.
Jack Phillips
Raleigh, NC
Working together. For life.(sm)
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain
privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have
received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the
original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands -
Norsk - Portuguese - Svenska: www.cardinalhealth.com/legal/email
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Position/Strobe Mounting Plate |
Talk to David Czachorowski <dczachorowski@verizon.net>
I hear that he is looking into supplying this type of bracket.
Dave Hertner
----- Original Message -----
From: Rich & Karol Hansen
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 1:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Position/Strobe Mounting Plate
Has anyone come across a mounting plate or bracket that will fit inside the rudder
fairing and secure the A500 Position/Strobe? I had this same problem on
my 6A ten years ago and DID find one! It has worked great, was easy to install
and comes with the two nuts welded to it to secure the A500 assembly. Cannot
find receipt where I got it - was only 10 or 15 dollars. Any help would be
appreciated. Rich Hansen
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: bottom wing skin overlap |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I didn't do my bottom ones either. I think it would be a waste of time,
personally.
Regarding your spar dimpling question, if you mean the main wing spar,
then I think they're all countersunk. The rear spar I don't remember
very well, but I think it was dimpled....I'd have to go back and
look at my photos. It's getting fuzzy. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> I didn't bother at all. It's not a requirement and is really an
> appearance issue. I figure I can clean it up with a little bondo before
> paint.
>
> Michael Sausen
> RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
> Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 1:05 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: bottom wing skin overlap
>
> while i'm on the subject -
>
> i'm looking at the overlap in the bottom wing skins and wondering if i
> really want to work the joint as fully as i did the top skins. anyone
> have any thoughts or opinions on this?
>
> cj
> #40410
> wings
> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | bottom wing skin overlap |
hey all -
i think i was just being lazy. it didn't take much to sand the overlap, and i
didn't go as nutty on it as the top ones. anyway, i never found the instructions
saying "dimple the rear spar" but that's what i did. i think they just left
it out of the instructions at the point of dimpling everything. thanks for
the responses.
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Sent: Wed 4/19/2006 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: bottom wing skin overlap
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I didn't do my bottom ones either. I think it would be a waste of time,
personally.
Regarding your spar dimpling question, if you mean the main wing spar,
then I think they're all countersunk. The rear spar I don't remember
very well, but I think it was dimpled....I'd have to go back and
look at my photos. It's getting fuzzy. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> I didn't bother at all. It's not a requirement and is really an
> appearance issue. I figure I can clean it up with a little bondo before
> paint.
>
> Michael Sausen
> RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
> Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 1:05 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: bottom wing skin overlap
>
> while i'm on the subject -
>
> i'm looking at the overlap in the bottom wing skins and wondering if i
> really want to work the joint as fully as i did the top skins. anyone
> have any thoughts or opinions on this?
>
> cj
> #40410
> wings
> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 21
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Anyone willing to relate how much they paid to get their panels done for
them? Thinking about using Stein or others and wondering what all of you
have paid..
Rob #392
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Position/Strobe Mounting Plate |
Rich and Karol: All I did was mount the strobe/nav. lights using the screws supplied
but then epoxyed two small lock nuts inside the fairing after screwing
them down semi-tight. Pulled the screws after partial setup of the fiberglass/epoxy---after
drying can now remove/replace the fixture at will. Jay
----- Original Message -----
From: Rich & Karol Hansen
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 1:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Position/Strobe Mounting Plate
Has anyone come across a mounting plate or bracket that will fit inside the rudder
fairing and secure the A500 Position/Strobe? I had this same problem on
my 6A ten years ago and DID find one! It has worked great, was easy to install
and comes with the two nuts welded to it to secure the A500 assembly. Cannot
find receipt where I got it - was only 10 or 15 dollars. Any help would be
appreciated. Rich Hansen
Message 23
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Stein charges $5,000.00 for doing a panel, unless he has gone up on his price,
and worth every penny.
Russ Daves
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert G. Wright
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 6:10 PM
Subject: RV10-List: panel
Anyone willing to relate how much they paid to get their panels done for them?
Thinking about using Stein or others and wondering what all of you have paid..
Rob #392
Message 24
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Rob - you'll get what you pay for.
I paid about $55k for mine from Avionics Systems. Think they have a picture
of mine posted now. First time I've ever held a Lexus in my hands......
But, I designed and got what I asked for. Could not have done this same
panel myself.
Grumpy
no not post
In a message dated 4/19/2006 6:15:28 PM Central Standard Time,
armywrights@adelphia.net writes:
Anyone willing to relate how much they paid to get their panels done for
them? Thinking about using Stein or others and wondering what all of you have
paid
=E2=80=A6.
Rob #392
Message 25
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Rob,
The price to get the panel done will vary all over the place depending on the equipment
ordered, etc. etc.
I made up my equipment list and then sent the same email request for quotes to
all the major shops so that I could compare apples to apples.
The bids were amazingly close, so I ended up going with the folks I thought were
most experienced and that I felt most comfortable with.
I think any of the established major shops would do fine. You will be working
with them extensively before the panel is done so look for folks you can work
comfortably with.
do not archieve
Dick Sipp
40065
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert G. Wright
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 7:10 PM
Subject: RV10-List: panel
Anyone willing to relate how much they paid to get their panels done for them?
Thinking about using Stein or others and wondering what all of you have paid..
Rob #392
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: RV Assembly Workshop |
In a message dated 4/19/06 1:04:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com writes:
wondered if this group recommends the workshops or
to just dive in and get started.
I spent an hour last year at Sun n Fun in the metal workshop tent,
doing a few rivets, flush rivets, removing rivets (that is a good one to learn),
then get started. The kit is excellent~!. I built the tool box kit from
Van's.... fun project to do, but just get started after you drive a few practice
rivets. Van's send you scrap metal in the empennage kit. Drill lots of holes in
it and de bur, then rivet with the size you will use for practice. Us the
rivet check gauge to verify that your shop head is coming out the right size.
Then drill a few rivets out for practice. Simple!
Steve
Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder / Cessna 170B flyer
766 SE River Lane
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 cell
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: RV Assembly Workshop |
I went to Synergy Air's builder's basic course (1 day) and would highly
recommend it. I had started on the tail kit when I went and was doing fine. After
the class, however, my confidence level, workmanship and speed went up 10
fold. There are so many little tricks you learn that can make an otherwise
tedious/painful/difficult job a piece of cake.
I also attended the 2 day fiberglass and painting class given at Synergy.
That has certainly helped me get through the canopy and cowling work rapidly.
I think I have made back all the time and money that I invested in the
classes.
Jim
40134
In a message dated 4/19/2006 8:22:35 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, LIKE2L
OOP@aol.com writes:
In a message dated 4/19/06 1:04:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com writes:
wondered if this group recommends the workshops or
to just dive in and get started.
I spent an hour last year at Sun n Fun in the metal workshop tent,
doing a few rivets, flush rivets, removing rivets (that is a good one to learn),
then get started. The kit is excellent~!. I built the tool box kit from
Van's.... fun project to do, but just get started after you drive a few
practice rivets. Van's send you scrap metal in the empennage kit. Drill lots
of
holes in it and de bur, then rivet with the size you will use for practice. Us
the rivet check gauge to verify that your shop head is coming out the right
size. Then drill a few rivets out for practice. Simple!
Steve
Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder / Cessna 170B flyer
766 SE River Lane
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 cell
Message 28
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I'll not comment too much on this thread other than to say that there really
is NO typical price for "doing a panel" at all. It will vary wildly, and
you'll find that almost all of the good panel shops including Avinoics
Systems & Aerotronics (and us) will all end up really close in price
(probably within a few % of each other). The typical person probably won't
get a panel done for $5K from any of us. Russ forgot to mention that we
used his panel as a display panel at Oshkosh 2005, along with some other
"horse trading" so costs below aren't really typical. If you've seen
Mr.Miller's panel or any of the others turned out by Avionics Systems and
Aerotronics you'll see they do some great work and that they can be worth
every cent you spend. I respect my competition a lot, Gary & David are two
top notch guys who run top notch shops and I'm happy to say we all get along
wonderfully (at least that's what I think:). There is no way any one of us
can do everyone's panels, so we all know there is plenty of work to keep us
all busy.
Please don't take this as "stumping" because I really don't intend for that
to be the case. Moreover I just wanted to try and explain that there isn't
a typical charge for things like this. It depends almost entirely on what
you buy, what you want installed and how, finishing options, timeframe,
etc.. I'll leave you with a parting thought on things like this....
You can have your panel (or anything else aviation for that matter) with the
options below:
1) FAST
2) CHEAP
3) GOOD (High Quality)
Here's the catch....you only get to pick TWO out of the three options. Pick
any two and that's the formula we all use to calculate your panel costs!
Cheers,
Stein.
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 8:42 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: panel
Stein charges $5,000.00 for doing a panel, unless he has gone up on his
price, and worth every penny.
Russ Daves
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