Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:18 AM - Re: Your bucking bar input please. (Indran Chelvanayagam)
2. 04:20 AM - Re: Bucking Bar follow-up (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
3. 05:57 AM - Re: empty weight (PILOTDDS@aol.com)
4. 06:12 AM - Re: empty weight (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
5. 06:12 AM - Re: Bucking Bar follow-up (Rick)
6. 07:15 AM - Re: empty weight (Rob Kermanj)
7. 11:36 AM - Fiber Glass thickness at Door Bottoms. (Bobby J. Hughes)
8. 12:08 PM - Re: Lycoming SI-1274 (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
9. 03:36 PM - Re: Fiber Glass thickness at Door Bottoms. (Marcus Cooper)
10. 04:58 PM - Re: Fiber Glass thickness at Door Bottoms. (Bobby J. Hughes)
11. 07:06 PM - Re: Thoughts (Tom Ganster)
12. 09:51 PM - Re: Fuel hose (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
13. 10:07 PM - Re: Re: Fuel hose (DejaVu)
14. 11:37 PM - Re: Fiber Glass thickness at Door Bottoms. (Steven DiNieri)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Your bucking bar input please. |
Does this mean that aeroplanes with pop rivets (eg Zenith, Zodiac, upcoming
RV12) will eventually fall apart?
(Do not archive)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli
Sent: Saturday, 22 April 2006 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Your bucking bar input please.
Hi Deems,
I finished that section about 2 months ago and have allready forgotten
exactly what I did. I did use the empennage bucking bar in a lot of places
and a steel plate about 1/4 " thick by about 2 inches wide and about 8
inches long which a shoved into tight areas. I believe I might have
squeezed some of the rivets in the area you are talking about. I would
caution against using blind rivets in this area as some of the engine loads
are coming through that joint. If you absolutely must use blind rivets make
sure you use something like the CherryMax ones that have a locking feature
that keeps the stem in place. The problem with most of the pop rivets is
that if subjected to vibration the steel stem falls off and you are left
with a hollow aluminum cylinder as your fastener that has a much reduced
strength.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Bucking Bar follow-up |
In a message dated 4/23/06 6:46:23 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
ricksked@earthlink.net writes:
They are the "real" builders,
Rick...my concept of a "real builder" is someone that takes a set of blue
prints and then creates a plane or draws up the plane's blues themselves then
builds off of their plans...whether the kit is pre punched or in some other
way it is for the most part pre-engineered, it certainly may entail a few more
steps but they're probably in a similar group...and all are builders just some
will take a few more months figuring things out...now going from fuzzy lines
to flight may take a few more years...IMHO...all are builders, though.
Patrick Scott
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: empty weight |
Mine weighed 1613 with dual batteries and paint .No wheel pants
Message 4
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
I would like to get an idea what Gross Weight everyone has
registered there plane for?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250 (At the airport and wings are on)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 7:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: empty weight
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Tim 1,685
Randy 1,625
Vic 1,665
Chuck 1,615
Rob 1,558
Chuck and Vic weight from <http://www.rvproject.com/wab/>
Rob, looks like you have the light weight machine. Which prop? With or
without wheel pants?
Larry Rosen
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Bucking Bar follow-up |
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: empty weight |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
Thanks for the info. I will keep everyone posted as it the plane gets
paint and gets fatter with stuff.
do not archive
On 4/24/06, PILOTDDS@aol.com <PILOTDDS@aol.com> wrote:
> Mine weighed 1613 with dual batteries and paint .No wheel pants
Message 7
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| Subject: | Fiber Glass thickness at Door Bottoms. |
After sanding the doors into place I have almost no material left on the
bottom of the doors where they were glued together. I have some
separations that will require a couple of layers of glass to re-bond. I
am well inside the bottom scribe lines. Did anyone else need to sand
this far to make the doors fit. I have been looking at it for a week now
and I do not see where I could have done anything different except maybe
take more off the cabin top at the base of the doors.
Bobby
40116
Message 8
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| Subject: | RE: Lycoming SI-1274 |
Does anyone have a electronic copy of Lycoming Service Instruction
SI-1274 handy?
TDT
40025
Engine
Do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Fiber Glass thickness at Door Bottoms. |
Bobby,
I too had to cut well inside the scribe lines so you may not have a
problem there as long as the door fits well. I commented to my self several
times that the scribe lines weren't all that accurate.
As for the separations you might want to try and just inject some resin in
the gaps rather than add glass which will be tough to get as smooth as the
door itself due to the extra thickness.
Marcus
40286
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J. Hughes
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 2:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fiber Glass thickness at Door Bottoms.
After sanding the doors into place I have almost no material left on the
bottom of the doors where they were glued together. I have some separations
that will require a couple of layers of glass to re-bond. I am well inside
the bottom scribe lines. Did anyone else need to sand this far to make the
doors fit. I have been looking at it for a week now and I do not see where I
could have done anything different except maybe take more off the cabin top
at the base of the doors.
Bobby
40116
Message 10
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| Subject: | Fiber Glass thickness at Door Bottoms. |
Marcus,
Visited by another RV10 builder this afternoon. He quickly pointed out
my problem. The start of the problem was that I did not lower the cabin
top enough on the fuse. I left it up about 1/8" higher than it needed to
be. So guess where my missing 1/8" went. Not a big deal but I will need
to add it back to the bottom of the door and sand down and re-bevel the
bottom door frame. This will also give me the bottom edge needed to
place the door seal on the bottom of the door.
Bobby
(fiberglass - love/ hate thing)
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 5:34 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fiber Glass thickness at Door Bottoms.
Bobby,
I too had to cut well inside the scribe lines so you may not have a
problem there as long as the door fits well. I commented to my self
several times that the scribe lines weren't all that accurate.
As for the separations you might want to try and just inject some resin
in the gaps rather than add glass which will be tough to get as smooth
as the door itself due to the extra thickness.
Marcus
40286
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J.
Hughes
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 2:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fiber Glass thickness at Door Bottoms.
After sanding the doors into place I have almost no material left on the
bottom of the doors where they were glued together. I have some
separations that will require a couple of layers of glass to re-bond. I
am well inside the bottom scribe lines. Did anyone else need to sand
this far to make the doors fit. I have been looking at it for a week now
and I do not see where I could have done anything different except maybe
take more off the cabin top at the base of the doors.
Bobby
40116
Message 11
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Hey Mike,
Who is your dad, and where does he live? Just happen to live very
close to him.
Tom Ganster 5598F PA28/140
RV10 #??? Starting shortly
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 7:45 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Thoughts
Hmm, I'm much more of a Tequila type. ;-) Won't be flying before OSH
this year but certainly next year. We might have to have a little -10
get together up at my dad's grass strip about 30 north of OSH. Great
little spot to camp and have a BIG campfire. hehe
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Thoughts
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Yes, Rick will be missed. 24 volt, Blue Mountain screens and probably
only 6 to 9 months from flying.
John C, It could be a long night toasting each of the 10 that show up at
OSH. Let me know when and I will help.
John J. For me, working on finishing up the canopy fit, it is difficult
to get pack into the garage and make more dust. It is pretty bad when
my new Permagrit sanding block in my new favorite tool.
Larry
Do not archive
John W. Cox wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>
>Kit #40330 is the highest number kit now flying. Congrats again Debby.
>There are more than 18 who have filed registration in the last six
>weeks (all the way up into the 400th), which is a step toward DAR
Inspection.
>I am tracking 12 that are all scheduled for completion prior. Far more
>who are staying off the radar screen like John Nys did with Randy's
>progress last year. I'll buy a beer for every 10 builder who sandbags
>my estimate at OSH and toast one for every one of the 50 who are there.
>"the glass IS half FULL".
>
>Oh yeh, and on the empty side... there has been less than a 0.40%
>sellout rate of those abandoning the pursuit to date going all the way
>back to James McClow. Rick, you are going to be missed.
>
>Check Six!
>
>John
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
>Dawson-Townsend
>Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 9:12 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Thoughts
>
>
>50 flying RV-10s AT Oshkosh, or just flying somewhere?
>
>TDT
>40025
>do not archive
>
>
>
>
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Message 12
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Can anyone recommend a good source for Lycoming engine fuel hoses?
Looking for part numbers
LW-12783-6-254 and
LW-12784-4-274
Thanks,
TDT
40025
do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Fuel hose |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Tim,
I've had good results with Aerosport.
Anh
40141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 12:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RE: Fuel hose
Can anyone recommend a good source for Lycoming engine fuel hoses?
Looking for part numbers
LW-12783-6-254 and
LW-12784-4-274
Thanks,
TDT
40025
do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Fiber Glass thickness at Door Bottoms. |
Bob, I took an epoxy syringe from west marine and drilled small holes above
the joint and pumped in thickened epoxy, then just filled the holes (#30).
It Ended up making a fillet inside the door frame. I also pumped in
expanding urethane foam into the larger cavities to insulate and glue. Just
be careful not to guppy the thing....the expanding foam can easily deform
the door. It didn't add much weight but it really seems to give the door a
more solid feel...
Fwiw
Steve dinieri
40205
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-swiwerver@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J. Hughes
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 2:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fiber Glass thickness at Door Bottoms.
After sanding the doors into place I have almost no material left on the
bottom of the doors where they were glued together. I have some separations
that will require a couple of layers of glass to re-bond. I am well inside
the bottom scribe lines. Did anyone else need to sand this far to make the
doors fit. I have been looking at it for a week now and I do not see where I
could have done anything different except maybe take more off the cabin top
at the base of the doors.
Bobby
40116
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