Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:08 AM - Re: WSI MX-20 (Hans Conser)
2. 05:55 AM - Re: Re: WSI MX-20 (Tim Olson)
3. 06:23 AM - 728DD (PILOTDDS@aol.com)
4. 06:33 AM - Re: 728DD (bob.kaufmann)
5. 06:34 AM - Re: MX20 (GRANSCOTT@AOL.COM)
6. 06:46 AM - Vertical Stab SB-06-2-3 Photos (Tim Olson)
7. 06:49 AM - Re: 728DD (Tim Olson)
8. 06:53 AM - Re: 728DD (Rob Kermanj)
9. 06:57 AM - Re: 728DD (PILOTDDS@aol.com)
10. 07:47 AM - Re: 728DD (John Jessen)
11. 09:59 AM - Performance numbers and fuel burn low power settings (Randy DeBauw)
12. 10:22 AM - Re: MX20 (Randy DeBauw)
13. 10:38 AM - Performance numbers at highter alt. (Randy DeBauw)
14. 03:07 PM - Re: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear (Conti, Rick)
15. 03:46 PM - Cabin Door Fit (Larry Rosen)
16. 04:30 PM - Oil canning on forward fuse (McGANN, Ron)
17. 06:35 PM - test (Chris)
18. 07:18 PM - Re: Oil canning on forward fuse (Tim Olson)
19. 07:20 PM - Re: Cabin Door Fit (Tim Olson)
20. 07:38 PM - Re: Oil canning on forward fuse (Rick)
21. 07:41 PM - Re: Cabin Door Fit (John Testement)
22. 07:49 PM - Pitch trim servo (John Testement)
23. 07:53 PM - Re: Oil canning on forward fuse (McGANN, Ron)
24. 09:05 PM - Re: Oil canning on forward fuse (John Dunne)
25. 10:41 PM - Re: Cabin Door Fit (ddddsp1@juno.com)
Message 1
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Hans Conser <hansconser@gmail.com>
WSI Weather users are going to have to switch to a Sirius receiver
sometime in the next year or so. The MX-20 has been updated with the
GMX-200. Is Chelton going to get their system to direct an autopilot
like the GNS 480 can?
Hans
Message 2
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
What do you mean about the Chelton and Autopilot? The Chelton
is capable of driving the autopilot today, including the
vertical guidance following approaches. You can get more
more function with the Chelton + Digiflight IIVSGV than you can
with most systems. If you're happy with the Chelton being
your main Autopilot control, it's a good way to save lots of
money on an autopilot. If you need to do equivalent things
with a GNS-480, you have to spend a few thousand more to
get the Sorcerer...or at least the RV-10 AP if it's even
available today. I think Grand Rapids just caught up
in that they can do Vertical Guidance now too, but I don't
know this first hand.
Also, you're correct about the WSI Weather and Sirius. I was
a bit disappointed at first when they told me I'd need a new
receiver, but quickly recovered when the WSI rep let me know
that since I activated my receiver on an initial activation
and new plan in 2006 that I'd be getting a free AV300 receiver
and antenna. So it should at least be a reasonable upgrade
for me. I can't say that the MX-20 and other systems will
be the same painless thing though.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Hans Conser wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Hans Conser <hansconser@gmail.com>
>
> WSI Weather users are going to have to switch to a Sirius receiver
> sometime in the next year or so. The MX-20 has been updated with the
> GMX-200. Is Chelton going to get their system to direct an autopilot
> like the GNS 480 can?
>
> Hans
>
Message 3
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Another RV-10 flys in Stockton California.It flys hands off. Docile as a
cherokee with a healthy dose of steroids.Lycoming 0-540 235 hp.burning 50/50
autofuel/100ll.Hartzell prop.Accuracy avionics panel.Thankyou Tony ,Eric and
Jennifer.Still have a few avionics bugs but Tony Sustare has been very supportive
and helpful even though panel was purchased originaly from lancair.Great people
to work with. 1613lb dual lightspeed,painted,fairings not installed for
testing,no vaccuum pumps or mags.
Message 4
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Congrats. Envy forcing me to get off my but and go out to the garage to get
to work. Bob K
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of PILOTDDS@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 5:22 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 728DD
Another RV-10 flys in Stockton California.It flys hands off. Docile as a
cherokee with a healthy dose of steroids.Lycoming 0-540 235 hp.burning 50/50
autofuel/100ll.Hartzell prop.Accuracy avionics panel.Thankyou Tony ,Eric and
Jennifer.Still have a few avionics bugs but Tony Sustare has been very
supportive and helpful even though panel was purchased originaly from
lancair.Great people to work with. 1613lb dual
lightspeed,painted,fairings not installed for testing,no vaccuum pumps or
mags.
Message 5
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Steve,
Please do not take me wrongly, I believe having the handheld's are a great
addition to many flight situation and having the ability to get wx, traffic
etc is an invaluable tool...but at times some of us folks read things out of
context..I carry an old 295, but in the Cherokee's panel we have a Garmin
300xl...one of the first IFR GPS's, not near the capability of what's out there
today, but a nice back up unit if one ever needs an inexpensive GPS/Comm second
unit...these two units have gotten me around many areas in the US and on
target.
P
Message 6
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| Subject: | Vertical Stab SB-06-2-3 Photos |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I just completed the SB-06-2-3 Vertical Stab doubler update. No
cracking was found. (Didn't expect any) I initially didn't want to
repair it, just build another, but laziness has set in, and I thought
I'd give it a try and see if I could do it without paint damage.
Anyway, here's the write-up, with photos.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/vstab/20060429/index.html
It was pretty easy to do and took about 2.5 hours. I may still rebuild
one eventually, but now I don't feel as much motivation. ;)
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 7
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That's awesome. You've got some interesting differences with the
duel Lightspeeds, and the Mogas mix, and the engine. It will be
very interesting to see your flying reports as time goes on. Do
you have any photos you can share with the group? If you have a
couple, shoot them to the list. If you have a lot and need a place
to post them, send them to me and I can throw them on my site so
all can see.
Congratulations! and keep posting data as you get it!
Tim
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
PILOTDDS@aol.com wrote:
> Another RV-10 flys in Stockton California.It flys hands off. Docile as
> a cherokee with a healthy dose of steroids.Lycoming 0-540 235 hp.burning
> 50/50 autofuel/100ll.Hartzell prop.Accuracy avionics panel.Thankyou Tony
> ,Eric and Jennifer.Still have a few avionics bugs but Tony Sustare has
> been very supportive and helpful even though panel was purchased
> originaly from lancair.Great people to work with. 1613lb dual
> lightspeed,painted,fairings not installed for testing,no vaccuum pumps
> or mags.
Message 8
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
Congradulations! Thanks for the numbers too.
Do not archive
On 4/30/06, PILOTDDS@aol.com <PILOTDDS@aol.com> wrote:
> Another RV-10 flys in Stockton California.It flys hands off. Docile as a
> cherokee with a healthy dose of steroids.Lycoming 0-540 235 hp.burning 50/50
> autofuel/100ll.Hartzell prop.Accuracy avionics panel.Thankyou Tony ,Eric and
> Jennifer.Still have a few avionics bugs but Tony Sustare has been very
> supportive and helpful even though panel was purchased originaly from
> lancair.Great people to work with. 1613lb dual
> lightspeed,painted,fairings not installed for testing,no vaccuum pumps or
> mags.
Message 9
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Photos will be avaliable in the next couple of days. thanks -jim
Message 10
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Congratulations! Enjoy! Ok, I say "not today" for mowing the grass. It's
out to the shop and back at it.
John Jessen
~328 (deburring Tailcone)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of PILOTDDS@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 6:22 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 728DD
Another RV-10 flys in Stockton California.It flys hands off. Docile as a
cherokee with a healthy dose of steroids.Lycoming 0-540 235 hp.burning 50/50
autofuel/100ll.Hartzell prop.Accuracy avionics panel.Thankyou Tony ,Eric and
Jennifer.Still have a few avionics bugs but Tony Sustare has been very
supportive and helpful even though panel was purchased originaly from
lancair.Great people to work with. 1613lb dual
lightspeed,painted,fairings not installed for testing,no vaccuum pumps or
mags.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Performance numbers and fuel burn low power settings |
Here are some numbers from the last 2 days of flying.
75 deg. Outside air temp.
2500 ind alt.
3570 density alt (from Dynon)
117kts ind.
125 kts true (from Dynon)
137 kts gs.
30.07 bp.
17.4 mp
2200 rpm
50% power
Gross weight 2100 aprox
9.1 gph.
69 deg. Outside air temp
2440 ind alt.
3480 density alt (dynon)
121 kts ind
128 kts true (dynon)
30.08 bp
123 kts gs
18.5 mp
2200 rpm
53 % power
Gross Weight 2550 approx
9.4 gph.
One thing I have learned flying this great airplane is that Fast is
directly related to fuel burn. I was reading the specs. on the Columbia
400. Top speed was something like 285mph. and a fuel burn of 25.5 gph.
I can make the 10 go fast when I need to - high fuel burn 19 gph or so.
On most days I fly slower and enjoy the view. The beauty is I have a
choice with this plane. If you want 172 fuel burn but 25 kts faster you
can get it.
I will repost with some high speeds and altitudes.
Randy N610RV
Message 12
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The MX20 is Very Very nice unit. I am pleased with the integration with
the GX60. I have recently bought a 396 garmin.
Here is my recommendation for some one interested in a MX20.
MX20 no plates. Learn to use the cheap faa plates. Use the money you
save for updates to the gps and mx20.
GNS480 best integration with the MX20
SL30
396 you should have a backup GPS and one with weather is a plus. Very
easy to use.
Randy N610RV
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
GRANSCOTT@AOL.COM
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 6:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: MX20
Steve,
Please do not take me wrongly, I believe having the handheld's are a
great addition to many flight situation and having the ability to get
wx, traffic etc is an invaluable tool...but at times some of us folks
read things out of context..I carry an old 295, but in the Cherokee's
panel we have a Garmin 300xl...one of the first IFR GPS's, not near the
capability of what's out there today, but a nice back up unit if one
ever needs an inexpensive GPS/Comm second unit...these two units have
gotten me around many areas in the US and on target
P
Message 13
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| Subject: | Performance numbers at highter alt. |
10.500 alt
20.6 mp
2300 rpm
12.4 gph
136 ind
162 adj
159 gs
10,520 alt.
11,390 density alt Dynon
136kts ind
160 kts adj.
155 kts gs.
12.2 gph
62% power
13,500
13,610 adj dynon
11.3 gph
18.3 mp
2300 rpm
130 kts ind.
162 kts adj
12 gph
151 kts gs (headwind)
Randy N610RV
Message 14
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| Subject: | My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
All of this sounds good to me. Thanks!!
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Schlatterer [mailto:billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 11:04 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer"
<billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Rick, just a follow up. The only mission here is to get a uniform hole
with
no play or as little play as possible. A 5/16 bolt is .3125 so a .3111
reamer will make any 5/16 bolt a snug fit. ( 3125-3111 = .0014) A 3125
reamer with a close tolerance bolt should also be fine. I used the
straight
fluted reamer in an electric hand drill turning fairly slowly with some
Bolube for lubricant and it was way less trouble than I ever imagined.
I
spent way more time agonizing than doing. It went like butter.
Many folks recommend putting the "shank" of the reamer through the hole
fist
and then attaching the drill and pulling the reamer back through.
That's
because the shoulder on the back of the reamer has a little slope to it
and
the front does not. I did not find it to be a problem just using it
like a
drill. Going directly to a 3125 did not require "pre-drilling" so I
would
think starting with a 3111 would not either.
The only reason to use a reamer instead of a drill is that drills leave
a
somewhat triangular hole instead of a truly round hole. The round hole
with
a close tolerance bolt or slightly oversize will obviously have more
bearing
surface in the reamed hole than in the drilled hole.
Many folks have just drilled them and it seems to work fine so I would
think
that any combination of the reamer options would be fine. First best
option
is the 3111 and then 5/16 reamer 3125 and a CT bolt.
My .02
Bill S
7a
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 2:41 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
Bob,
I'm not sure I understand. I've never used a reamer and just realized I
shouldn't use an air drill with a reamer. Maybe the hand wrench from my
tap
& die set.
What under size hole did you drill before using the .311" reamer?
Please explain the grinding of the shoulders at the reamer stem side to
be
able to pull up and through.
Does any of this make sense without using a close tolerance bolt?
Bill suggested using a .3125 reamer with a 5/16" close tolerance bolt.
All of which sounds good.
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Kermanj [mailto:flysrv10@gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
I used the same reamer as you have purchased. I found it easier to
insert
the reamer from the button, chuck it and pull it through the hole. If
you
decide to do this, you may need to grind the blade shoulders at the
reamer
stem side to be able to pull up through.
On 4/26/06, Conti, Rick <rick.conti@boeing.com> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
>
> Whenever I start a new "kit", I review the instructions several times,
> once to ensure I have the necessary tools and parts. The .311" drill
> bit appeared to be a problem. I called Van's and received an
> interesting answer: I was told a 5/16 bit would be okay. I haven't
> installed the gear yet and after reading about loose landing gear I
had
> second thoughts. I received my .311" reamer from McMaster-Carr
(thanks
> for the info) yesterday. But is has occurred to me, that 5/16" would
be
> fine provided the bolt matched. Drilling with a 5/16" bit though the
> leg and support would not cause a problem. The problem would be from
an
> undersized bolt. Would everyone agree 5/16" would be okay with a
proper
> (precise fit) bolt?
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> Senior Engineering Manager
> The Boeing Company
> office: 703 - 414 - 6141
> blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
>
>
Message 15
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Today I am breathing more fiberglass dust as I work on fitting the cabin
doors. I have the doors mounted and clecoed together, but not yet
epoxied together. I have a tight fit between the door and the lip of
the cabin frame on the top and forward edge. The bottom 8" of the
froward door to cabin frame has a 1/4" gap. The door sits 1/2" above
the bottom sill with a 3/8' gap from the door to the return of the
frame. The back of the door has up to an 1/4" gap. I believe I trimmed
the cabin top to the scribe line. Do the gaps I described above sound
correct?
In the future steps of the plans it has the cabin top frame return tight
to the door. Do I leave enough gap for the upholstery fabric?
--
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Oil canning on forward fuse |
G'day all
Just had an awesome weekend and made some significant progress.
Finished tailcone attachment and got those mongrel rear floor pans
installed. Decided to do some clean up and admire the work to date.
On inspecting the forward fuse skins, below the F1088 rib and just
forward of the wing leading edge, I noticed a bit of a 'bulge' in the
skins. Applying some pressure to the skin reveals a bit of oil canning.
This is present on both sides. Don't know what happened here, followed
the plans to the letter. Is this typical? Is there a fix?
cheers,
Ron
187 fuse
Message 17
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test
do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Oil canning on forward fuse |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I did the QB fuse, so I can't say that I've ever seen or heard of that
area being a problem, but if everything else looks normal, you could
use some length of J-Channel or thin angle and either proseal or
rivet a stiffner strip in if you think it'll oil can. That should
stiffen it up if needed. We'll see what the others have to say
though...there may be more to it than I know.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> G'day all
>
> Just had an awesome weekend and made some significant progress.
> Finished tailcone attachment and got those mongrel rear floor pans
> installed. Decided to do some clean up and admire the work to date.
>
> On inspecting the forward fuse skins, below the F1088 rib and just
> forward of the wing leading edge, I noticed a bit of a 'bulge' in the
> skins. Applying some pressure to the skin reveals a bit of oil
> canning. This is present on both sides. Don't know what happened here,
> followed the plans to the letter. Is this typical? Is there a fix?
>
> cheers,
> Ron
> 187 fuse
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Door Fit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Without commenting on each gap, in general I have 1/16-1/8" gap around
the sides, tighter towards the top. A bit more along the bottom edge,
and I can see the door seal. You'll find that the door seals very well,
so if you have a little extra gap I'm betting there is no problem.
I did find that I needed a little extra after I added fabric, so
don't let it get too extremely tight. Wish you could sit in
mine and close the doors. Seeing it makes more sense than building it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Larry Rosen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
> Today I am breathing more fiberglass dust as I work on fitting the cabin
> doors. I have the doors mounted and clecoed together, but not yet
> epoxied together. I have a tight fit between the door and the lip of
> the cabin frame on the top and forward edge. The bottom 8" of the
> froward door to cabin frame has a 1/4" gap. The door sits 1/2" above
> the bottom sill with a 3/8' gap from the door to the return of the
> frame. The back of the door has up to an 1/4" gap. I believe I trimmed
> the cabin top to the scribe line. Do the gaps I described above sound
> correct?
>
> In the future steps of the plans it has the cabin top frame return tight
> to the door. Do I leave enough gap for the upholstery fabric?
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Oil canning on forward fuse |
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Message 21
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
I over trimmed my canopy at the bottom edges of the door sill and had to go
back and rebuild the frame to add back about 1/2 inch. This came out great
although is took some time, I think the scribe lines are inaccurate.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
QB canopy and windshield trim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 10:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin Door Fit
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Without commenting on each gap, in general I have 1/16-1/8" gap around the
sides, tighter towards the top. A bit more along the bottom edge, and I can
see the door seal. You'll find that the door seals very well, so if you
have a little extra gap I'm betting there is no problem.
I did find that I needed a little extra after I added fabric, so don't let
it get too extremely tight. Wish you could sit in mine and close the doors.
Seeing it makes more sense than building it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Larry Rosen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>
> Today I am breathing more fiberglass dust as I work on fitting the
> cabin doors. I have the doors mounted and clecoed together, but not
> yet epoxied together. I have a tight fit between the door and the lip
> of the cabin frame on the top and forward edge. The bottom 8" of the
> froward door to cabin frame has a 1/4" gap. The door sits 1/2" above
> the bottom sill with a 3/8' gap from the door to the return of the
> frame. The back of the door has up to an 1/4" gap. I believe I
> trimmed the cabin top to the scribe line. Do the gaps I described
> above sound correct?
>
> In the future steps of the plans it has the cabin top frame return
> tight to the door. Do I leave enough gap for the upholstery fabric?
>
--
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Message 22
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| Subject: | Pitch trim servo |
Anyone have instructions or photos of the new TruTrak pitch trim servo
installation (with the roller arm thingy)? I only got a couple of photos and
no info on where to drill the bellcrank arm, etc.
Take care,
John
_________________________________
John Testement
Human Potential Project
Phone: 804-303-1927
Email: HYPERLINK
"mailto:john.testement@humanpotentialproject.com"john.testement@humanpotenti
alproject.com
3204 Long Meadow Cir.
Glen Allen, VA 23059
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Message 23
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| Subject: | Oil canning on forward fuse |
Thanks Rick. Mine isn't serious either, but it's a bit annoying. I
spoke to Jon Johanson (of RV-4 'round the world fame) about it and he
suggested to leave it until the top forward fuse goes on and the engine
is hung. As you say, it will probably improve as work progresses.
cheers
Ron
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Monday, 1 May 2006 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil canning on forward fuse
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
Ron,
I have a touch of this as well, nothing major and I hope it fades away
as the fwd fuse goes on and all other pieces come together....mine is
very minor and has gotton better as more work is completed. Since this
is such a small area I could not even consider some kind of fix, FWIW,
it's only my left side, right side does not do this at all. I can live
with this small area especially since it appears to be getting better as
I progress.
Rick S.
40185
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Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Oil canning on forward fuse |
Ron, I've had a few very minor issues including some similar to yours in
various spots. I've suspected at times a slight twist in the overall
frame mainly due to the positioning of the various supports for the fuse
and the tailcone and so on, and this leads to the need for minor
adjustments to enable certain parts to be correctly aligned. As I've
progressed I've found most of these tend to "iron themselves" out, once
I have the loads on the frame correctly supported.
John 40315
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 12:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil canning on forward fuse
Thanks Rick. Mine isn't serious either, but it's a bit annoying. I
spoke to Jon Johanson (of RV-4 'round the world fame) about it and he
suggested to leave it until the top forward fuse goes on and the engine
is hung. As you say, it will probably improve as work progresses.
cheers
Ron
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Monday, 1 May 2006 12:07 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil canning on forward fuse
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
Ron,
I have a touch of this as well, nothing major and I hope it fades
away as the fwd fuse goes on and all other pieces come together....mine
is very minor and has gotton better as more work is completed. Since
this is such a small area I could not even consider some kind of fix,
FWIW, it's only my left side, right side does not do this at all. I can
live with this small area especially since it appears to be getting
better as I progress.
Rick S.
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Door Fit |
Why do the scribe lines/instructions tell you to cut so much off the bot=
tom cabin cover door edge? The gap at the bottom is the widest if you c=
ut to the scribe line. I would leave 1/8 inch more on at the bottom of
the cabin door if i did it again.
Dean
40449
Try Juno Platinum for Free! Then, only $9.95/month!
<html><P>Why do the scribe lines/instructions tell you to cut so much of=
f the bottom cabin cover door edge? The gap at the bottom is the w=
idest if you cut to the scribe line. I would leave 1/8 inch more o=
n at the bottom of the cabin door if i did it again.</P>
<P>Dean</P>
<P>40449</P></html>
<font face=3D"Times-New-Roman" size=3D"2"><br><br>______________________=
Try Juno Platinum for Free! Then, only $9.95/month!<br>
> to sign up today!<br></font>
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