Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:04 AM - Re: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone (Chris , Susie Darcy)
2. 03:49 AM - Re: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone (Nikolaos Napoli)
3. 04:50 AM - Dents in HS Skin (Marc and Kathy)
4. 06:25 AM - Re: Dents in HS Skin (David Hertner)
5. 06:37 AM - Re: Dents in HS Skin (Deems Davis)
6. 08:37 AM - Re: Dents in HS Skin(wet shims) (John Gonzalez)
7. 08:37 AM - RV-10 Hartzell propeller available? (LessDragProd@AOL.COM)
8. 08:45 AM - Re: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone (Darton Steve)
9. 08:54 AM - Re: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone (Dj Merrill)
10. 10:08 AM - Re: Dents in HS Skin (Jeff Carpenter)
11. 10:34 AM - Re: Dents in HS Skin (John Jessen)
12. 10:54 AM - Re: Dents in HS Skin (John Gonzalez)
13. 11:22 AM - Re: Performance numbers at highter alt. (Verizon)
14. 11:44 AM - Re: Dents in HS Skin (Jeff Carpenter)
15. 12:29 PM - New Builder Introduction (Michael Schipper)
16. 01:35 PM - Spraygun for priming (Michael Wellenzohn)
17. 02:21 PM - Re: Spraygun for priming (linn Walters)
18. 02:59 PM - Re: Spraygun for priming (Brinker)
19. 04:07 PM - Re: Dents in HS Skin (Marc and Kathy)
20. 04:07 PM - Re: Spraygun for priming (bruce breckenridge)
21. 05:48 PM - Brake lines and Flared Fittings (McGANN, Ron)
22. 05:48 PM - Re: Dents in HS Skin (Jesse Saint)
23. 06:08 PM - Re: Brake lines and Flared Fittings (Jesse Saint)
24. 06:28 PM - Re: Spraygun for priming (Marc and Kathy)
25. 06:52 PM - Re: Brake lines and Flared Fittings (Rob Kermanj)
26. 07:40 PM - Re: Brake lines and Flared Fittings (David McNeill)
27. 07:49 PM - Re: New Builder Introduction (Richard Sipp)
28. 07:56 PM - Re: Brake lines and Flared Fittings (McGANN, Ron)
29. 08:10 PM - Re: Brake lines and Flared Fittings (David McNeill)
30. 09:19 PM - Re: Brake lines and Flared Fittings (JOHN STARN)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone |
As Vans says 1 hole will not be missed ....stop stressing move on and
have fun....
Chris
RV6 VHMUM Sold
40388
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone |
Hey John,
I will get my 2 cents in here.
As per your advice from Vans I don't think its a problem with strength. I would
use one of the oops rivets here just so that the hole gets cleaned out a bit.
Past that you can bond the two pieces if it makes you lfeel better but I wouldn't
loose sleep over it.
Niko
40188 Fuselage floors
----- Original Message ----
From: John Jessen <jjessen@rcn.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 4, 2006 2:27:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone
Ok. The holes are now no longer two. They joined as I thought they would as soon
as I tried to deburr the original. Here's a picture. Any further advice?
John Jessen
328 Tailcone.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Dents in HS Skin |
Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are suggestions
on how to fix it?
The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly and produce
a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the bottom and only
to the nose ribs.
I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin inward about 1/8
of an inch. I'm confident that
this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
Has anyone else seen this?
I could e-mail pictures if needed.
Thanks for the help.
Marc Hudson
marcandkathy.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Dents in HS Skin |
Marc,
I had the same problem. Same emotional outburst when I looked at it
from the end. Filler will fix the problem. I haven't run into a similar
situation after I completed that component so the best advise is to not
dwell on it and fix it up at paint.
Dave Hertner
#40164
Waiting for QB to arrive.
----- Original Message -----
From: Marc and Kathy
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 8:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are
suggestions on how to fix it?
The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly and
produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the bottom and
only to the nose ribs.
I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin inward
about 1/8 of an inch. I'm confident that
this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
Has anyone else seen this?
I could e-mail pictures if needed.
Thanks for the help.
Marc Hudson
marcandkathy.com
-----
03/05/2006
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Dents in HS Skin |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Ditto.
FWIW I looked @ the 2 Colorado Award winners @ OSH last year and they
had the Same thing.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
David Hertner wrote:
> Marc,
> I had the same problem. Same emotional outburst when I looked at it
> from the end. Filler will fix the problem. I haven't run into a
> similar situation after I completed that component so the best advise
> is to not dwell on it and fix it up at paint.
> Dave Hertner
> #40164
> Waiting for QB to arrive.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Marc and Kathy <mailto:marchudson@comcast.net>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 04, 2006 8:46 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
>
> Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are
> suggestions on how to fix it?
>
> The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly
> and produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
>
> This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the bottom
> and only to the nose ribs.
>
> I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin inward
> about 1/8 of an inch. Im confident that
>
> this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
>
> Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
>
> Has anyone else seen this?
>
> I could e-mail pictures if needed.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Marc Hudson
>
> marcandkathy.com
>
> 03/05/2006
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Dents in HS Skin(wet shims) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Again, everybody seems to have experienced this.
When I noticed this I went back and re-did it a different way.
The problem seems to stem from the fact that the skin bend radius is
different from the radius of the nose ribs. We think the correct airfoil is
the rib shape plus the thickness of the skin.
I wrote something a while ago about doing something called wet shimming.
Those nose rib flanges can easily get slightly(Slightly) out of shape when
pounding on them with the rivet gun. Also the skin bend and the rib flanges
space aren't as tight toward the L.E..
I did a two step process of again using the Anchor Tite epoxy bond and
bonded only these nose rib flanges in and let it cure while most of the
spars and ribs were in place to hold the skin in the correct airfoil shape.
After cure, cleaned the holes, made sure the rivet lengths were still
correct, removed the internal structures to gain access and then riveted the
nose ribs while the structure is vertical and alternated each rivet set from
top to bottom going from L.E. to T.E.
The result was a big improvement from my first attempt, although still a
slight difference in contour.
You would be surprised how the H.S. skin sprung back when I removed the
first attempts rivet. I rebuilt the Vertical again using this technique
with all new parts when the service bulletin came out. That was the excuse
I needed. Be considerate of weight...use sparingly.
Just an anal kind of guy.
The other suggestions will work fine too.
John G.
>From: "Marc and Kathy" <marchudson@comcast.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
>Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 06:46:35 -0600
>
>Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are suggestions
>on how to fix it?
>
>
>The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly and produce
>a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
>
>This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the bottom and only
>to the nose ribs.
>
>I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin inward about
>1/8
>of an inch. I'm confident that
>
>this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
>
>
>Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
>
>
>Has anyone else seen this?
>
>
>I could e-mail pictures if needed.
>
>
>Thanks for the help.
>
>
>Marc Hudson
>
>marcandkathy.com
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | RV-10 Hartzell propeller available? |
Hi All,
Is there a RV-10 Hartzell propeller available for flight testing?
Someone on the RV-10 list suggested that it would be reasonable for an RV-10
builder who isn't using their Hartzell RV-10 propeller yet to make their
propeller available.
I am willing to pay the shipping costs both ways.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
John,
I would cleco the skin to the underlying part and
re-match drill that one hole only, larger for an oops
rivet. If that hole is elongated I would then dimple
the skin and rib together. Move on and have fun, it's
not a big deal.
Steve 40212
--- John Jessen <jjessen@rcn.com> wrote:
> Ok. The holes are now no longer two. They joined
> as I thought they would
> as soon as I tried to deburr the original. Here's a
> picture. Any further
> advice?
>
> John Jessen
> 328 Tailcone.
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
John Jessen wrote:
> Ok. The holes are now no longer two. They joined as I thought they
> would as soon as I tried to deburr the original. Here's a
> picture. Any further advice?
>
> John Jessen
Hi John,
I'm not a metal working expert, nor do I play one on TV.... :-)
I think structurally you would be fine to leave it as many have suggested.
If it is a cosmetic thing (as it would be with me), perhaps use some of the
metal epoxy to fill in the hole in the skin, and in the rib, and then
re-drill it through the epoxy after it sets? I really don't know if
this will work, and
I'd recommend trying it on some scrap first. I'm also not sure about
being able
to dimple it afterwards.
I suppose you could cut the head off a flush rivet, and epoxy the
head of the rivet in the hole and then fill in the rest of the hole with the
epoxy. That should at least take care of the cosmetic part.
Or perhaps leave it as-is for now, and after you have riveted all of
the holes around this one,
you could literally epoxy an entire rivet into the hole and fill around
it with
the epoxy. You'd have to make a best effort at dimpling this hole as it
is now, though.
Dunno, I'm just thinking out loud here...
-Dj
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Dents in HS Skin |
Everyone who didn't trim the edge of the nose rib a bit (me
included) has had this problem. It's upsetting, but you'll have
bigger cosmetic issues along the way. Think of it as the first
little scratch on your new car. It makes all the scratches that
follow a bit easier to take.
You'll find that later in the empennage instruction set they'll have
you trim the ribs on another part to avoid just that problem. It
makes you wonder why they don't warn you on the HS.
Jeff Carpenter
40204
N410CF
Fuel Tanks
On May 4, 2006, at 5:46 AM, Marc and Kathy wrote:
> Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are
> suggestions on how to fix it?
>
>
> The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly and =20=
> produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
>
> This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the bottom
> and only to the nose ribs.
>
> I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin inward
> about 1/8 of an inch. I=92m confident that
>
> this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
>
>
> Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
>
>
> Has anyone else seen this?
>
>
> I could e-mail pictures if needed.
>
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
>
> Marc Hudson
>
> marcandkathy.com
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Dents in HS Skin |
Take a look here for a brief discussion.
http://www.soundingsresearch.com/RV-10/Problems/Problems_03.htm
John Jessen
328 Tailcone
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
Everyone who didn't trim the edge of the nose rib a bit (me included) has
had this problem. It's upsetting, but you'll have bigger cosmetic issues
along the way. Think of it as the first little scratch on your new car. It
makes all the scratches that follow a bit easier to take.
You'll find that later in the empennage instruction set they'll have you
trim the ribs on another part to avoid just that problem. It makes you
wonder why they don't warn you on the HS.
Jeff Carpenter
40204
N410CF
Fuel Tanks
On May 4, 2006, at 5:46 AM, Marc and Kathy wrote:
Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are suggestions
on how to fix it?
The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly and produce
a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the bottom and only
to the nose ribs.
I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin inward about 1/8
of an inch. I'm confident that
this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
Has anyone else seen this?
I could e-mail pictures if needed.
Thanks for the help.
Marc Hudson
marcandkathy.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Dents in HS Skin |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
With instructions for kit #409 they said trim the H.S. ribs but not the V.S.
Even when trimmed there still is an issue.
John G.
No not archive
>From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
>Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 10:06:03 -0700
>
>Everyone who didn't trim the edge of the nose rib a bit (me included) has
>had this problem. It's upsetting, but you'll have bigger cosmetic issues
>along the way. Think of it as the first little scratch on your new car.
>It makes all the scratches that follow a bit easier to take.
>
>You'll find that later in the empennage instruction set they'll have you
>trim the ribs on another part to avoid just that problem. It makes you
>wonder why they don't warn you on the HS.
>
>Jeff Carpenter
>40204
>N410CF
>Fuel Tanks
>
>
>On May 4, 2006, at 5:46 AM, Marc and Kathy wrote:
>
>>Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are
>>suggestions on how to fix it?
>>
>>
>>
>>The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly and
>>produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
>>
>>This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the bottom and
>>only to the nose ribs.
>>
>>I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin inward about
>>1/8 of an inch. Im confident that
>>
>>this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
>>
>>
>>
>>Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
>>
>>
>>
>>Has anyone else seen this?
>>
>>
>>
>>I could e-mail pictures if needed.
>>
>>
>>
>>Thanks for the help.
>>
>>
>>
>>Marc Hudson
>>
>>marcandkathy.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Performance numbers at highter alt. |
Randy;
I saw this report about props somewhere in my researching the RV-10 to
death. Seeing your plane was compared to Vic Syracuse and the company
plane, wondering if you could expand on this report, how valid is it?
Didn't see anything in the archives that covered if it did, please let
me know where to look as I find the 11mph loss of the MT prop on Vic's
plane compared to the 2 blade rather interesting.
Thanks!
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 10:35 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
10.500 alt
20.6 mp
2300 rpm
12.4 gph
136 ind
162 adj
159 gs
10,520 alt.
11,390 density alt Dynon
136kts ind
160 kts adj.
155 kts gs.
12.2 gph
62% power
13,500
13,610 adj dynon
11.3 gph
18.3 mp
2300 rpm
130 kts ind.
162 kts adj
12 gph
151 kts gs (headwind)
Randy N610RV
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Dents in HS Skin |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
I stand corrected John... I had the problem on the VS (no warning)
and not the HS (warning). These memories are getting a bit old.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On May 4, 2006, at 10:53 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez"
> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
> With instructions for kit #409 they said trim the H.S. ribs but not
> the V.S. Even when trimmed there still is an issue.
>
> John G.
>
> No not archive
>
>
>> From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
>> Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 10:06:03 -0700
>>
>> Everyone who didn't trim the edge of the nose rib a bit (me
>> included) has had this problem. It's upsetting, but you'll have
>> bigger cosmetic issues along the way. Think of it as the first
>> little scratch on your new car. It makes all the scratches that
>> follow a bit easier to take.
>>
>> You'll find that later in the empennage instruction set they'll
>> have you trim the ribs on another part to avoid just that
>> problem. It makes you wonder why they don't warn you on the HS.
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40204
>> N410CF
>> Fuel Tanks
>>
>>
>> On May 4, 2006, at 5:46 AM, Marc and Kathy wrote:
>>
>>> Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are
>>> suggestions on how to fix it?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly
>>> and produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
>>>
>>> This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the
>>> bottom and only to the nose ribs.
>>>
>>> I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin
>>> inward about 1/8 of an inch. Im confident that
>>>
>>> this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Has anyone else seen this?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I could e-mail pictures if needed.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for the help.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Marc Hudson
>>>
>>> marcandkathy.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> wiki.matronics.com
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | New Builder Introduction |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Schipper <mike@learningplanet.com>
I just had to email the list and introduce myself as another new
RV-10 builder. My emp. kit was delivered today. This is my second RV.
I finished my RV-9A back in February, so I guess I officially qualify
as a repeat offender. Or certifiably nuts. :-)
So, the fun begins. The new website will be set up soon, and I'm off
to inventory parts.
Regards,
Mike Schipper
RV-10 #576 - Emp. Inventory
RV-9A - N63MS - Flying
www.my9a.com
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Spraygun for priming |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Wellenzohn <michael@wellenzohn.net>
Hello,
I just moved my workshop and built my spray box, and today I tried the
first time priming parts of the VS and it didn't turn out as good as I
thought it should have.
I wonder now if I should have bought a spray gun with the cup on top.
Any suggestion which one works better for small paint jobs.
Thanks for your help
Michael Wellenzohn #511 (VS)
www.wellenzohn.net
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Spraygun for priming |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Michael, you didn't say what the problem was, so it's hard to come up
with a good answer. A lot depends on what type of spray gun (HVLP Vs.
regular high pressure gun), what type of paint, and how you thinned
(reduced) it. I use cheap HVLP guns, both top and bottom cups, with no
detectable difference. The top cup will allow you to use a bag, and
after the air is expelled you can paint upside down with ease, which is
something to consider.
I mix my paint for 5 minutes (2-part polyurethanes mostly) and let it
sit for 1/2 hour ..... the 'induction' period. If the paint comes out
stringy, let it sit longer. I spray a very light mist cross coat and
let it sit for 1/2 hour. Then I shoot a wet cross coat and let sit for
1/2 hour. If I need to, I'll spray a second wet coat, wait 1/2 hour and
pull any striping tape off, close up the paint booth and clean the gun
and go home.
Some tips:
1. Don't scrimp on the 1/2 hour between coats. Runs are tough to sand out.
2. Don't spray more than two coats. Runs (and sags) are tough to sand out.
3. See #2. I know, the paints expensive, but QUIT when you have a nice
shiny wet coat. That extra paint only adds weight and will make you
more vunerable to sags.
4. I like to use a light colored primer, and prime everything with the
same color and paint.
5. I spray the light colors first, and the darker colors last.
6. I like a lot of light in my spray booth!!!
Linn
do not archive
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Wellenzohn
> <michael@wellenzohn.net>
>
> Hello,
>
> I just moved my workshop and built my spray box, and today I tried the
> first time priming parts of the VS and it didn't turn out as good as I
> thought it should have.
> I wonder now if I should have bought a spray gun with the cup on top.
> Any suggestion which one works better for small paint jobs.
>
>
> Thanks for your help
>
> Michael Wellenzohn #511 (VS)
> www.wellenzohn.net
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Spraygun for priming |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brinker" <brinker@cox-internet.com>
I've found that just about any cheap gun is good enough to
primer with if adjusted correctly. But for paint I am partial to Devilbis.
Plus I'm old school I prefer a cup gun to a gravity feed. But opinions are
like noses everybody has one.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael@wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 3:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Spraygun for priming
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Wellenzohn
> <michael@wellenzohn.net>
>
> Hello,
>
> I just moved my workshop and built my spray box, and today I tried the
> first time priming parts of the VS and it didn't turn out as good as I
> thought it should have.
> I wonder now if I should have bought a spray gun with the cup on top. Any
> suggestion which one works better for small paint jobs.
>
>
> Thanks for your help
>
> Michael Wellenzohn #511 (VS)
> www.wellenzohn.net
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Dents in HS Skin |
Guess I didn't make myself clear enough in the first post. It
wasn't caused by not trimming the nose of the rib but rather
it is pulling the skin down on the top of the HS almost like the
rib was not tall enough.
I've attached a picture for all to see.
Thanks for the help.
Marc
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
I stand corrected John... I had the problem on the VS (no warning)
and not the HS (warning). These memories are getting a bit old.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On May 4, 2006, at 10:53 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez"
> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
> With instructions for kit #409 they said trim the H.S. ribs but not
> the V.S. Even when trimmed there still is an issue.
>
> John G.
>
> No not archive
>
>
>> From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
>> Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 10:06:03 -0700
>>
>> Everyone who didn't trim the edge of the nose rib a bit (me
>> included) has had this problem. It's upsetting, but you'll have
>> bigger cosmetic issues along the way. Think of it as the first
>> little scratch on your new car. It makes all the scratches that
>> follow a bit easier to take.
>>
>> You'll find that later in the empennage instruction set they'll
>> have you trim the ribs on another part to avoid just that
>> problem. It makes you wonder why they don't warn you on the HS.
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40204
>> N410CF
>> Fuel Tanks
>>
>>
>> On May 4, 2006, at 5:46 AM, Marc and Kathy wrote:
>>
>>> Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are
>>> suggestions on how to fix it?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly
>>> and produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
>>>
>>> This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the
>>> bottom and only to the nose ribs.
>>>
>>> I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin
>>> inward about 1/8 of an inch. I'm confident that
>>>
>>> this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Has anyone else seen this?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I could e-mail pictures if needed.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for the help.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Marc Hudson
>>>
>>> marcandkathy.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> wiki.matronics.com
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Spraygun for priming |
I really like the simplicity and ease of use of "
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=3D1146783601-248-396&=
browse=3Dtools&product=3Dpaint-gun".
If the link doesn't fly, go to Van's website and it's web store and search
for "primer". A few choices down the page will reveal this little gun
that's super easy to use and clean. We're not talking about applying the
perfect showroom quality layer of primer - this little guy is great for
protecting the inside of the plane where no one will see! I've used it
through the elevators, and will probably continue with the tailcone, but it
may be a little small for the larger sheets.
Bruce
40018
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Brake lines and Flared Fittings |
G'day all,
Finished plumbing the brake lines in the fuse last night. I have no
prior experience with flared fittings, and although all the flares look
fine to me (nicely burnished, no cracks, symmetrical) I have no idea how
well these connections perform.
Can any one with experience in these connections provide any feedback on
how well these fittings seal? Specifically, do they leak, and if so,
how are they fixed if they do?
Is there a way of leak testing the brake system before the fuel plumbing
and upper forward fuse is installed? Is finding/fixing a leak after
everything is installed a problem? I'd hate to have to remove and
reinstall the lines to fix a problem.
Thanks in advance,
Ron
187 fuse
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Dents in HS Skin |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
That's very normal, I think. There isn't a crease, is there? I think it
might be possible to get the bend on the non-ribbed portion of the skin a
little tighter, but I wouldn't mess with it.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marc and Kathy
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 6:04 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
Guess I didn't make myself clear enough in the first post. It
wasn't caused by not trimming the nose of the rib but rather
it is pulling the skin down on the top of the HS almost like the
rib was not tall enough.
I've attached a picture for all to see.
Thanks for the help.
Marc
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
I stand corrected John... I had the problem on the VS (no warning)
and not the HS (warning). These memories are getting a bit old.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On May 4, 2006, at 10:53 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez"
> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
> With instructions for kit #409 they said trim the H.S. ribs but not
> the V.S. Even when trimmed there still is an issue.
>
> John G.
>
> No not archive
>
>
>> From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
>> Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 10:06:03 -0700
>>
>> Everyone who didn't trim the edge of the nose rib a bit (me
>> included) has had this problem. It's upsetting, but you'll have
>> bigger cosmetic issues along the way. Think of it as the first
>> little scratch on your new car. It makes all the scratches that
>> follow a bit easier to take.
>>
>> You'll find that later in the empennage instruction set they'll
>> have you trim the ribs on another part to avoid just that
>> problem. It makes you wonder why they don't warn you on the HS.
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40204
>> N410CF
>> Fuel Tanks
>>
>>
>> On May 4, 2006, at 5:46 AM, Marc and Kathy wrote:
>>
>>> Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are
>>> suggestions on how to fix it?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly
>>> and produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
>>>
>>> This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the
>>> bottom and only to the nose ribs.
>>>
>>> I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin
>>> inward about 1/8 of an inch. I'm confident that
>>>
>>> this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Has anyone else seen this?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I could e-mail pictures if needed.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for the help.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Marc Hudson
>>>
>>> marcandkathy.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> wiki.matronics.com
>
>
--
--
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Brake lines and Flared Fittings |
I can=92t help much, but you could try hooking up a pressure guage on
one end
and a tire valve on the other end and pressurize it to whatever the
brake
lines are going to need to hold and see how well it holds the pressure.
This is similar to the testing of the fuel tanks, but using much higher
pressure than the balloon will hold.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 7:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake lines and Flared Fittings
G'day all,
Finished plumbing the brake lines in the fuse last night. I have no
prior
experience with flared fittings, and although all the flares look fine
to me
(nicely burnished, no cracks, symmetrical) I have no idea how well these
connections perform.
Can any one with experience in these connections provide any feedback on
how
well these fittings seal? Specifically, do they leak, and if so, how
are
they fixed if they do?
Is there a way of leak testing the brake system before the fuel plumbing
and
upper forward fuse is installed? Is finding/fixing a leak after
everything
is installed a problem? I'd hate to have to remove and reinstall the
lines
to fix a problem.
Thanks in advance,
Ron
187 fuse
--
--
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Spraygun for priming |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marc and Kathy" <marchudson@comcast.net>
Mike
I use a gun that Harbor Freight had on sale for $15. It's a top feed gun
and works great. Have a look at harborfreight.com and do a search for item
number 47016.
Good luck
Marc Hudson
Marcandkathy.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 2:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Spraygun for priming
--> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Wellenzohn <michael@wellenzohn.net>
Hello,
I just moved my workshop and built my spray box, and today I tried the
first time priming parts of the VS and it didn't turn out as good as I
thought it should have.
I wonder now if I should have bought a spray gun with the cup on top.
Any suggestion which one works better for small paint jobs.
Thanks for your help
Michael Wellenzohn #511 (VS)
www.wellenzohn.net
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Brake lines and Flared Fittings |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
They should look polished and shiney and connect squarely to the
fitting. Try soapy water at the jopint with a little bit of
compressed air.
Do not archive.
On 5/4/06, Jesse Saint <jesse@itecusa.org> wrote:
>
>
> I can't help much, but you could try hooking up a pressure guage on one end
> and a tire valve on the other end and pressurize it to whatever the brake
> lines are going to need to hold and see how well it holds the pressure.
> This is similar to the testing of the fuel tanks, but using much higher
> pressure than the balloon will hold.
>
>
> Do not archive.
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org
>
> www.itecusa.org
>
> 352-465-4545
>
> ________________________________
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> McGANN, Ron
> Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 7:47 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Brake lines and Flared Fittings
>
>
> G'day all,
>
>
> Finished plumbing the brake lines in the fuse last night. I have no prior
> experience with flared fittings, and although all the flares look fine to me
> (nicely burnished, no cracks, symmetrical) I have no idea how well these
> connections perform.
>
>
> Can any one with experience in these connections provide any feedback on how
> well these fittings seal? Specifically, do they leak, and if so, how are
> they fixed if they do?
>
>
> Is there a way of leak testing the brake system before the fuel plumbing and
> upper forward fuse is installed? Is finding/fixing a leak after everything
> is installed a problem? I'd hate to have to remove and reinstall the lines
> to fix a problem.
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
>
> Ron
>
>
> 187 fuse
>
>
> --
>
>
> --
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Brake lines and Flared Fittings |
buy some caps for the lines at the fuselage. install the complete brake
cylinders and lines and firewall tank. Then get a squirting oil can and
put 5606 in it connect a flexible tube to the fuselage fittings after
removing the caps. squirt the 5606 into each brake line and you will
begin to see it move up in the system into the clear nylon tubes and
into the tank. once it is near full (bubbles gone) you can them cap each
line and press on the brake pedals. braking will make any leaks readily
apparent. Also you can install each fitting with fuel lube on the
threads of the AN fittings. Questions give me a call at 480-832-5295.
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 5:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake lines and Flared Fittings
G'day all,
Finished plumbing the brake lines in the fuse last night. I have no
prior experience with flared fittings, and although all the flares look
fine to me (nicely burnished, no cracks, symmetrical) I have no idea how
well these connections perform.
Can any one with experience in these connections provide any feedback
on how well these fittings seal? Specifically, do they leak, and if so,
how are they fixed if they do?
Is there a way of leak testing the brake system before the fuel
plumbing and upper forward fuse is installed? Is finding/fixing a leak
after everything is installed a problem? I'd hate to have to remove and
reinstall the lines to fix a problem.
Thanks in advance,
Ron
187 fuse
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: New Builder Introduction |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
Welcome Mike, it's a great airplane and a great group. Jump in the water's
fine.
Dick Sipp
RV4 N250DS 730 hours sold
RV10 40065. N110DV (rsvd)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Schipper" <mike@learningplanet.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 3:27 PM
Subject: RV10-List: New Builder Introduction
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Schipper
> <mike@learningplanet.com>
>
> I just had to email the list and introduce myself as another new RV-10
> builder. My emp. kit was delivered today. This is my second RV. I
> finished my RV-9A back in February, so I guess I officially qualify as a
> repeat offender. Or certifiably nuts. :-)
>
> So, the fun begins. The new website will be set up soon, and I'm off to
> inventory parts.
>
> Regards,
> Mike Schipper
> RV-10 #576 - Emp. Inventory
> RV-9A - N63MS - Flying
> www.my9a.com
>
> do not archive
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Brake lines and Flared Fittings |
Thanks David - that's just the solution I was looking for. I had read
somewhere that fuel lube was not a good idea on flared fittings - only
tapered pipe fittings. Is this acceptable practice?
thanks again,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Friday, 5 May 2006 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brake lines and Flared Fittings
buy some caps for the lines at the fuselage. install the complete brake
cylinders and lines and firewall tank. Then get a squirting oil can and
put 5606 in it connect a flexible tube to the fuselage fittings after
removing the caps. squirt the 5606 into each brake line and you will
begin to see it move up in the system into the clear nylon tubes and
into the tank. once it is near full (bubbles gone) you can them cap each
line and press on the brake pedals. braking will make any leaks readily
apparent. Also you can install each fitting with fuel lube on the
threads of the AN fittings. Questions give me a call at 480-832-5295.
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron <mailto:ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 5:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake lines and Flared Fittings
G'day all,
Finished plumbing the brake lines in the fuse last night. I have no
prior experience with flared fittings, and although all the flares look
fine to me (nicely burnished, no cracks, symmetrical) I have no idea how
well these connections perform.
Can any one with experience in these connections provide any feedback on
how well these fittings seal? Specifically, do they leak, and if so,
how are they fixed if they do?
Is there a way of leak testing the brake system before the fuel plumbing
and upper forward fuse is installed? Is finding/fixing a leak after
everything is installed a problem? I'd hate to have to remove and
reinstall the lines to fix a problem.
Thanks in advance,
Ron
187 fuse
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Brake lines and Flared Fittings |
we are not putting fuel lube on the flare but on the threads where the B
nut goes. One other thing I assume you are using the proper aviation
flaring tool providing 100? degree flares. I had one leak that was fixed
by tightening one B nut.
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 7:55 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake lines and Flared Fittings
Thanks David - that's just the solution I was looking for. I had read
somewhere that fuel lube was not a good idea on flared fittings - only
tapered pipe fittings. Is this acceptable practice?
thanks again,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Friday, 5 May 2006 12:08 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brake lines and Flared Fittings
buy some caps for the lines at the fuselage. install the complete
brake cylinders and lines and firewall tank. Then get a squirting oil
can and put 5606 in it connect a flexible tube to the fuselage fittings
after removing the caps. squirt the 5606 into each brake line and you
will begin to see it move up in the system into the clear nylon tubes
and into the tank. once it is near full (bubbles gone) you can them cap
each line and press on the brake pedals. braking will make any leaks
readily apparent. Also you can install each fitting with fuel lube on
the threads of the AN fittings. Questions give me a call at
480-832-5295.
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 5:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake lines and Flared Fittings
G'day all,
Finished plumbing the brake lines in the fuse last night. I have
no prior experience with flared fittings, and although all the flares
look fine to me (nicely burnished, no cracks, symmetrical) I have no
idea how well these connections perform.
Can any one with experience in these connections provide any
feedback on how well these fittings seal? Specifically, do they leak,
and if so, how are they fixed if they do?
Is there a way of leak testing the brake system before the fuel
plumbing and upper forward fuse is installed? Is finding/fixing a leak
after everything is installed a problem? I'd hate to have to remove and
reinstall the lines to fix a problem.
Thanks in advance,
Ron
187 fuse
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Brake lines and Flared Fittings |
Don't mean to jump in BUT the aviation flare is 37 degrees. Automotive
is 45 degree. The 45 degree looks like it fits BUT it's the wrong angle.
You can force it to fit & stop leaking BUT the nut edge will cut into
the back of the flare when the flare is deformed causing a crack
starting groove. Not sure that the 100 degree would be. If you have a
proper flare the end should "just" fit inside the nut. Always put any
thread "dope" (fuel lube etc) very sparingly in the "male" threads ONLY.
KABONG N561FS HRII
EAA Tech Advisor. Plumbing & A/C Contractor 30 years.
Do Not Archive, all of this in there.
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brake lines and Flared Fittings
we are not putting fuel lube on the flare but on the threads where the
B nut goes. One other thing I assume you are using the proper aviation
flaring tool providing 100? degree flares. I had one leak that was fixed
by tightening one B nut.
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 7:55 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake lines and Flared Fittings
Thanks David - that's just the solution I was looking for. I had
read somewhere that fuel lube was not a good idea on flared fittings -
only tapered pipe fittings. Is this acceptable practice?
thanks again,
Ron
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