Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:32 AM - Re: Spraygun for primingSpraygun for priming (Michael Wellenzohn)
2. 03:34 AM - Re: Brake lines and Flared Fittings (Tim Olson)
3. 03:39 AM - Re: Spraygun for primingSpraygun for priming (Tim Olson)
4. 06:35 AM - Re: Dents in HS Skin (Rick)
5. 08:00 AM - Re: Brake lines and Flared Fittings (linn Walters)
6. 11:40 AM - Nose wheel axle is too long. (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
7. 02:42 PM - Re: Nose wheel axle is too long. (Gary Specketer)
8. 02:47 PM - Re: Nose wheel axle is too long. (Jesse Saint)
9. 11:17 PM - Re: Dents in HS Skin (John Gonzalez)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Spraygun for primingSpraygun for priming |
Thank you all for your advice regarding my spray gun issue, I guess I found
also the solution. My spray gun is designed for bigger paint jobs and I
simply would need to put more primer in. But I will go for the gravity
version with a way smaller cup.
Thanks again for your help and best regards from Switzerland
Michael Wellenzohn
#511 (VS)
Z=FCrich,Switzerland
michael@wellenzohn.net
http://www.wellenzohn.net
do not archive
BEGIN:VCARD
VERSION:3.0
N:Wellenzohn;Michael;;Herr;
FN:Wellenzohn Michael
ADR:;;Muehlebachstrasse 119;Zuerich;ZH;8008;Switzerland
TEL;TYPE=HOME,VOICE:+41 78 790 5454
EMAIL;TYPE=INTERNET,PREF:michael@wellenzohn.net
END:VCARD
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Brake lines and Flared Fittings |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I think he just confused the tubing flare with the flat-head
screw countersink number.... Aviation fittings are 37 degree
flare. Aviation Screws are 100 degree countersink. I think
regular screws are 82 degrees or something like that. Many
automotive fittings are 45 degrees.
That said, when looking for fittings you may have better luck
trying Aeroquip's performance automotive line...hot rodders
apparently years ago learned that our aviation fittings were
cool, so there's a much better selection of fittings available
in the performance automotive market, and usually at lower
cost. Try: http://www.summitracing.com/ for instance.
I've heard they also have firewall passthroughs,but don't know
first hand.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
JOHN STARN wrote:
> Don't mean to jump in BUT the aviation flare is 37 degrees. Automotive
> is 45 degree. The 45 degree looks like it fits BUT it's the wrong angle.
> You can force it to fit & stop leaking BUT the nut edge will cut into
> the back of the flare when the flare is deformed causing a crack
> starting groove. Not sure that the 100 degree would be. If you have a
> proper flare the end should "just" fit inside the nut. Always put any
> thread "dope" (fuel lube etc) very sparingly in the "male" threads ONLY.
> KABONG N561FS HRII
> EAA Tech Advisor. Plumbing & A/C Contractor 30 years.
> Do Not Archive, all of this in there.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007@cox.net>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 04, 2006 8:08 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Brake lines and Flared Fittings
>
> we are not putting fuel lube on the flare but on the threads where
> the B nut goes. One other thing I assume you are using the proper
> aviation flaring tool providing 100? degree flares. I had one leak
> that was fixed by tightening one B nut.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* McGANN, Ron <mailto:ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 04, 2006 7:55 PM
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Brake lines and Flared Fittings
>
> Thanks David - that's just the solution I was looking for. I
> had read somewhere that fuel lube was not a good idea on flared
> fittings - only tapered pipe fittings. Is this acceptable practice?
>
> thanks again,
> Ron
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Spraygun for primingSpraygun for priming |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
This may have been stated before, but just in case...
For priming, you'll probably want a gun with a larger nozzle, like 2.0mm
or so. For painting you probably want a 1.4mm or so. Also, in a primer
gun, you may have to ditch the sintered or plastic filter in the gun
because it can tend to trap the larger particles of primer pigment.
If I were doing it all over again, I'd probably buy a nice gravity
gun, in the detail gun size (small cup) for priming, since you often
do small priming batches. I used a cheap harbor freight type and
although it worked OK, the machining internally wasn't as nice and it
was harder to clean.
Then, for painting, I'd do the same as I did....buy a nice gun.
I have a SataJet RP Digital II gun, which is very nice. My plan
for this summer is to buy a Mini-SataJet gun for doing small
jobs, as after borrowing one I really liked it. I wouldn't put
it through the rigors of priming though....buy a cheaper brand
for that unless you're willing to clean very thoroughly many
times over.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
> Thank you all for your advice regarding my spray gun issue, I guess I found
> also the solution. My spray gun is designed for bigger paint jobs and I
> simply would need to put more primer in. But I will go for the gravity
> version with a way smaller cup.
>
> Thanks again for your help and best regards from Switzerland
>
> Michael Wellenzohn
> #511 (VS)
>
> Zrich,Switzerland
>
> michael@wellenzohn.net
> http://www.wellenzohn.net
>
> do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Dents in HS Skin |
Marc,
This is typical of all the RV-10's I have seen, except I have only seen 4. I quit
worrying about it after I looked at both of Van's RV-10's. Mine and Bob Kayfmann's
here in Las Vegas are just like that. Only thing you want to make sure
of is that the flanges on the rib fully contact the skin and that you made sure
the flanges were 90 degrees from the web of the rib itself. The other posts
addressed the problem of the leading edge of the rib causing the skin to crease
at the rib, you don't seem to have that problem. Bright shiney aluminum tends
to acentuate any minor deviations from absolute flat. I borrowed a pic from
Mike Howe's site where his stab is hanging on the wall and you can easily see
the same thing. Drive on!! you got lots more to do!
Rick S.
40185
Fuse/Finish
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Brake lines and Flared Fittings |
IMHO, of course!!!
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> G'day all,
>
> Finished plumbing the brake lines in the fuse last night. I have no
> prior experience with flared fittings, and although all the flares
> look fine to me (nicely burnished, no cracks, symmetrical) I have no
> idea how well these connections perform.
>
> Can any one with experience in these connections provide any
> feedback on how well these fittings seal?
Very well. You really have to work at it to make a flare that leaks
along with your description.
> Specifically, do they leak,
Not usually.
> and if so, how are they fixed if they do?
You can 'reflare' the tubing ..... just give it another go with the
original flare.
> Is there a way of leak testing the brake system before the fuel
> plumbing and upper forward fuse is installed?
The brake system is a system by itself. If you have all the pieces
installed and the system filled with fluid, you can put a high pressure
gauge on the end of the tubing going to the brake (wherever that may be
since the wings probably aren't attached) and press on the pedals.
> Is finding/fixing a leak after everything is installed a problem?
Well, depends on where they are. I've seen leaks in the cabin that go
unnoticed for a long time ..... until the owner wonders why he's always
filling the reservoir. The fluid is red in color (if you use aviation
brake fluid) but will 'bleach' out and get really sticky as it dries.
> I'd hate to have to remove and reinstall the lines to fix a problem.
Absolutely. The fittings needed are relatively inexpensive to test part
of the system, and you can plug the end of the line until it's time to
install the rest of the line to the brakes.
Linn
do not archive
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Ron
> 187 fuse
Message 6
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| Subject: | Nose wheel axle is too long. |
I've noticed that my nose wheel axle is too long and with
the proper toque on the bolt, there is way to much side to side play of
the wheel on the axle. I sent a message to Van's and they just said to
shorten it. I figured this out myself, but want to give then a chance
to see if they address this issue with new parts? What did everyone
else do to address this issue and what method did you use to shorten the
axle?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250 (First flight on May 26th)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Nose wheel axle is too long. |
My axel was too long and the bearing would not rotate as it should, it only
rotated between the axel and the bearing not allowing the balls to rotate.
I fabricated a spacer to put pressure on the bearing to make it work
correctly. Vans told me that they are aware of the problem but do not have
a solution. We builders should fabricate a fix and let them know what we
make.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2006 2:38 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Nose wheel axle is too long.
I've noticed that my nose wheel axle is too long and with the
proper toque on the bolt, there is way to much side to side play of the
wheel on the axle. I sent a message to Van's and they just said to shorten
it. I figured this out myself, but want to give then a chance to see if
they address this issue with new parts? What did everyone else do to
address this issue and what method did you use to shorten the axle?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250 (First flight on May 26th)
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel axle is too long. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
We didn't have this problem. Ours seems to have been the right size, both
times.
> I've noticed that my nose wheel axle is too long and with
> the proper toque on the bolt, there is way to much side to side play of
> the wheel on the axle. I sent a message to Van's and they just said to
> shorten it. I figured this out myself, but want to give then a chance
> to see if they address this issue with new parts? What did everyone
> else do to address this issue and what method did you use to shorten the
> axle?
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
>
> 40250 (First flight on May 26th)
>
>
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Message 9
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| Subject: | Dents in HS Skin |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
If you go back and read my original post along with some of the things
others have said it should make sense why this happens. Rick's post from
today is the bottom line.
You might see this again when you make the elevator trim tabs.
Think about this, in the case of the Horizontal stab it is the leading edge
bend and the nose rib shape.
With the elevator trim parts you bend the aluminum in a bender and if you do
not make the trailing edge bend tight enough, when you go to glue the foam
ribs in place you will be squeezing the metal skin in to the ribs more than
the non rib supported skin wants to be so in the end you might see a
depression where the ribs are sucking in the skin.
My epoxy worked better by allowing the H.S. skin L.E. bend dictatethe shape
of the airfoil in conjunction with the ribs and spars. Any gap between the
inside skin and the rib flange was filled with epoxy, that is why I
rechecked the rivet lengths. This even with the rib flanges 90 degrees to
the web.
Bottom line, it is good you are seeing the issue and thinking about why it
happens.
John G.
>From: "Marc and Kathy" <marchudson@comcast.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
>Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 17:04:16 -0600
>
>Guess I didn't make myself clear enough in the first post. It
>wasn't caused by not trimming the nose of the rib but rather
>it is pulling the skin down on the top of the HS almost like the
>rib was not tall enough.
>
>I've attached a picture for all to see.
>
>Thanks for the help.
>
>Marc
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
>Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 12:42 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
>I stand corrected John... I had the problem on the VS (no warning)
>and not the HS (warning). These memories are getting a bit old.
>
>Jeff Carpenter
>40304
>
>
>On May 4, 2006, at 10:53 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez"
> > <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
> >
> > With instructions for kit #409 they said trim the H.S. ribs but not
> > the V.S. Even when trimmed there still is an issue.
> >
> > John G.
> >
> > No not archive
> >
> >
> >> From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
> >> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
> >> Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 10:06:03 -0700
> >>
> >> Everyone who didn't trim the edge of the nose rib a bit (me
> >> included) has had this problem. It's upsetting, but you'll have
> >> bigger cosmetic issues along the way. Think of it as the first
> >> little scratch on your new car. It makes all the scratches that
> >> follow a bit easier to take.
> >>
> >> You'll find that later in the empennage instruction set they'll
> >> have you trim the ribs on another part to avoid just that
> >> problem. It makes you wonder why they don't warn you on the HS.
> >>
> >> Jeff Carpenter
> >> 40204
> >> N410CF
> >> Fuel Tanks
> >>
> >>
> >> On May 4, 2006, at 5:46 AM, Marc and Kathy wrote:
> >>
> >>> Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are
> >>> suggestions on how to fix it?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly
> >>> and produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
> >>>
> >>> This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the
> >>> bottom and only to the nose ribs.
> >>>
> >>> I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin
> >>> inward about 1/8 of an inch. I'm confident that
> >>>
> >>> this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Has anyone else seen this?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> I could e-mail pictures if needed.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Thanks for the help.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Marc Hudson
> >>>
> >>> marcandkathy.com
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> > wiki.matronics.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
><< DSC05222.jpg >>
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