Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:22 AM - Re: Re: tunnel heat (Rob Kermanj)
2. 04:29 AM - Re: Re: tunnel heat (Tim Olson)
3. 04:36 AM - Re: QB bagage door seal angle (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
4. 05:16 AM - Re: Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip (Jesse Saint)
5. 05:53 AM - Re: QB bagage door seal angle (RAS)
6. 06:23 AM - Re: QB bagage door seal angle (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
7. 06:34 AM - Re: Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip (Rick)
8. 07:38 AM - Re: Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
9. 07:46 AM - Re: Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip (Mark Chamberlain)
10. 08:48 AM - Re: QB baggage door seal angle (John W. Cox)
11. 09:01 AM - Re: Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip (Rick)
12. 09:22 AM - Re: Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip (Tim Olson)
13. 09:59 AM - Re: QB baggage door seal angle (JOHN STARN)
14. 10:42 AM - Re: Re: tunnel heat (Marcus Cooper)
15. 10:45 AM - Re: QB baggage door seal angle (Rick)
16. 11:13 AM - Re: Re: tunnel heat (Jesse Saint)
17. 11:31 AM - Re: QB baggage door seal angle (John W. Cox)
18. 01:13 PM - lifting (David McNeill)
19. 01:16 PM - Re: FW: Engine prices ()
20. 01:21 PM - Re: Re: tunnel heat (Rob Kermanj)
21. 01:22 PM - Re: FW: Engine prices (Rhonda Bewley)
22. 02:09 PM - Re: QB baggage door seal angle (Tom Gummo)
23. 02:24 PM - Re: QB baggage door seal angle.enough!!! (Chris , Susie Darcy)
24. 02:26 PM - Re: Re: tunnel heat (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
25. 02:41 PM - Re: lifting (Jesse Saint)
26. 06:42 PM - Re: Re: FW: Engine prices ()
27. 07:38 PM - Re: FW: Engine prices (Deems Davis)
28. 07:54 PM - Re: lifting (Byron Gillespie)
29. 07:55 PM - Re: FW: Engine prices (Deems Davis)
30. 08:26 PM - Re: lifting (David McNeill)
31. 10:33 PM - Re: lifting (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
A valve at the intake would be great. I might mount my knobs to the
subpanel and out of sight. In Florida, we rarely need heat, even at
altitute.
Do not archive
On 5/11/06, Roger Standley <taildragon@msn.com> wrote:
>
>
> How about a valve at the intake? Related question...where are builders
> mounting the "Knob" end of the heater cables so they are accessable but
> non-interferring in the cabin?
>
> Roger Standley
> 40291 - panel / fuselage
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Rob Kermanj
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 4:45 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: tunnel heat
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
>
> I don't think that there is much room to accomodate another valve.
> You will actaullay need two of them, one for the front duct and one
> for the back.
>
> Do not acrchive
>
> On 4/25/06, Mike Lauritsen - Work <mike@cleavelandtool.com> wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Lauritsen - Work"
> <mike@cleavelandtool.com>
> >
> > I had been planning on a second valve as a "heat dump" so the firewall
> valve
> > is cold. After hearing this it sounds like this is an even better idea.
> > Really shutting off the heat has always been a problem in the -4. That
> > said, any of you that have the engine install done... is there room for
> > another T valve?
> >
> >
> >
> > Mike Lauritsen
> > Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
> > 2225 First St.
> > Boone, Iowa 50036
> > 515-432-6794
> > mike@cleavelandtool.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf
> Of Rob Kermanj
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 12:19 PM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: tunnel heat
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
> >
> > I taped my heater valves shut and the problem is essentially solved
> > for the time being. I think that the problem is in the valves. They
> > do not seal. After hearing of the problem, I even created a gasket to
> > seal the valves when they are shut. Apprently not good enough.
> >
> > The solution might be in some talented person with a good machine shop
> > producing a valve with positive seal.
> >
> > Do not archive
> >
> > On 4/25/06, zackrv8 <zackrv8@verizon.net> wrote:
> > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
> > >
> > > Well....I'm not at that point of construction yet, but the tunnel heat
> > does concern me. Looking at many of the Rv10 projects on the web, it
> seems
> > Van's has the 2 triangular shaped heat valves (same one I have in my RV8)
> > aiming the exhaust port at each other. This hot air is always pointing at
> > each other until you open the valve for cabin heat.
> > >
> > > Part of the tunnel heat problem could be as what Tim ond others have
> > said...heat conducting through the valve and radiating into the tunnel.
> > Also, if the heat valve(s) are the very same ones that I bought from Vans
> (I
> > believe they are), then they don't "seal" very well. If you have a blast
> of
> > hot air aiming at them constantly, (try experimenting with the valve in
> your
> > hand and blow some air with your air hose at the outlet side and see what
> > happens) they could possible leak and that hot air is forced down the
> tunnel
> > through a "leaky" valve. Maybe a solution would be to not point the
> exhaust
> > ports at each other and/or make a gasket to provide a better seal.
> > >
> > > Just a thought but it's possible.
> > >
> > > Zack
> > >
> > > --------
> > > RV8 #80125
> > > RV10 # 40512
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Read this topic online here:
> > >
> > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p30585#30585
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >nbsp; Navigator Photoshare, and much much ;
>
> titlehttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
> Email List ;
> nbsp; generous bsp;
> titlehttp://www.matronics.com/contribution
> href"http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
Message 2
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I'd be careful with that. If you put a valve upstream of the air box,
then the airflow within the SCAT tube and heater vent area will
be EXTREMELY slow, and could cause the air to get super hot,
leading to a worse problem than if there was freeflowing air.
It would have a long time to sit and head up in the shroud
around the exhaust. If you really think you don't need
any heat, it might be more practical to just remove the heat
system completely. IMHO, it would just be better to come up
with one of the fixes though that have seemed to work for
people. The blast tube I put on mine seems to make
a difference. Perhaps adding some fins to the air valve
boxes would make the blast tube even more efficient. So far
though, after 60+ hours, I am thinking I'm happy with the
way it is.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rob Kermanj wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
>
> A valve at the intake would be great. I might mount my knobs to the
> subpanel and out of sight. In Florida, we rarely need heat, even at
> altitute.
>
> Do not archive
>
> On 5/11/06, Roger Standley <taildragon@msn.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> How about a valve at the intake? Related question...where are builders
>> mounting the "Knob" end of the heater cables so they are accessable but
>> non-interferring in the cabin?
>>
>> Roger Standley
>> 40291 - panel / fuselage
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Rob Kermanj
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 4:45 PM
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: tunnel heat
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
>>
>> I don't think that there is much room to accomodate another valve.
>> You will actaullay need two of them, one for the front duct and one
>> for the back.
>>
>> Do not acrchive
>>
>> On 4/25/06, Mike Lauritsen - Work <mike@cleavelandtool.com> wrote:
>> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Lauritsen - Work"
>> <mike@cleavelandtool.com>
>> >
>> > I had been planning on a second valve as a "heat dump" so the firewall
>> valve
>> > is cold. After hearing this it sounds like this is an even better
>> idea.
>> > Really shutting off the heat has always been a problem in the -4. That
>> > said, any of you that have the engine install done... is there room for
>> > another T valve?
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Mike Lauritsen
>> > Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
>> > 2225 First St.
>> > Boone, Iowa 50036
>> > 515-432-6794
>> > mike@cleavelandtool.com
>> >
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf
>> Of Rob Kermanj
>> > Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 12:19 PM
>> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: tunnel heat
>> >
>> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
>> >
>> > I taped my heater valves shut and the problem is essentially solved
>> > for the time being. I think that the problem is in the valves. They
>> > do not seal. After hearing of the problem, I even created a gasket to
>> > seal the valves when they are shut. Apprently not good enough.
>> >
>> > The solution might be in some talented person with a good machine shop
>> > producing a valve with positive seal.
>> >
>> > Do not archive
>> >
>> > On 4/25/06, zackrv8 <zackrv8@verizon.net> wrote:
>> > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "zackrv8" <zackrv8@verizon.net>
>> > >
>> > > Well....I'm not at that point of construction yet, but the tunnel
>> heat
>> > does concern me. Looking at many of the Rv10 projects on the web, it
>> seems
>> > Van's has the 2 triangular shaped heat valves (same one I have in my
>> RV8)
>> > aiming the exhaust port at each other. This hot air is always
>> pointing at
>> > each other until you open the valve for cabin heat.
>> > >
>> > > Part of the tunnel heat problem could be as what Tim ond others
>> have
>> > said...heat conducting through the valve and radiating into the tunnel.
>> > Also, if the heat valve(s) are the very same ones that I bought from
>> Vans
>> (I
>> > believe they are), then they don't "seal" very well. If you have a
>> blast
>> of
>> > hot air aiming at them constantly, (try experimenting with the valve in
>> your
>> > hand and blow some air with your air hose at the outlet side and see
>> what
>> > happens) they could possible leak and that hot air is forced down the
>> tunnel
>> > through a "leaky" valve. Maybe a solution would be to not point the
>> exhaust
>> > ports at each other and/or make a gasket to provide a better seal.
>> > >
>> > > Just a thought but it's possible.
>> > >
>> > > Zack
>> > >
>> > > --------
>> > > RV8 #80125
>> > > RV10 # 40512
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > Read this topic online here:
>> > >
>> > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p30585#30585
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
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>> >
>> >
>> >
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>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >nbsp; Navigator Photoshare, and much much ;
>>
>> titlehttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
>> Email List ;
>> nbsp; generous bsp;
>> titlehttp://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> href"http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: QB bagage door seal angle |
In a message dated 5/11/06 5:29:01 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
VHMUM@bigpond.com writes:
Unfortunately, you have one of the QB fuselages that the
Philippines messed up. Your only option is to remove the parts
that are not assembled according to instructions and fix them. We
have since gotten them to build the baggage door area correctly,
but that doesn't help you. We apologize for their oversight and the
extra work that it has caused you.
I'm not an attorney but it would seem to me that if Van's is admitting they
made a mistake as they are the prime contractor then they should have recalled
the product and replaced it with a quality product and/or paid the people
who are fixing the poor product compensation.
This above paragraph has a funny smell to it.
Patrick
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
We used AeroTrim on both N256H and now on N415EC. They really work well,
and can be installed after the plane is flying. The hardest part is getting
the wire there, but that isn't that bad at all. You just cut a hole in the
skin at the right place, either pop-rivet or nut-plate and screw the trim
servo in, then drill out a few rivets from the trailing edge and rivet the
hinge on. I don't have any pictures on me, sorry. Norm's number is
305-864-3336. We paid about $175, I think, but we bought more than one at a
time. His unit is STC'd for a bunch of planes, as I understand, so make
sure you let him know that you are experimental, and that you only want the
trim and the hinge, not the cheepo little toggle switch or the indicator.
If somebody wanted to go all-out, they could mount the trim under the skin
and then glass over it to make it a little more durable and a little more
flush-looking, but that would make it very hard to remove and service or
replace. We put in 6 #6 nutplates on N415EC (for both aileron and rudder
trims) and will be able to remove them without trouble.
We have over 200hours on N256H and wouldn't fly it without the trims. They
make it so easy to keep it flying clean, no matter how you decide to burn
your fuel, and keep the ball in the center. It's worth the money.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Chamberlain
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 10:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer@verizon.net>
Jesse, can you tell me how you installed electric rudder trim. I'm assuming
it's electric if there is a switch on the stick for it. I have been messing
with a tab on my rudder and have finally got a fairly neutral force for
cruise, but the ball is out one way on climb out and out the other in higher
speed descents. Not a big deal, at some point you have to fly these things
like real airplanes, but I was considering building a new rudder and adding
a built in tab with a servo in the tail to drive it. Just curious what you
came up with. Mark.(N104ML)
--
--
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: QB bagage door seal angle |
No Offense, but it is quite clear you're no attorney. I'm no attorney
either, but I would politely suggest you have a good look at the boring
fine print. You yourself assess the suitability of the product. In
addition there's a bit on the Van's website, legel terms point 7.
Let us no forget that the compensation attitude has priced most factory
built aircraft out of reach for many people. Don't fall into this trap
again and let the same happen to the kitbuilt market. I'm sure that
Van's is happy enough to send this guy the parts free of charge to
rectify the problem. In the overall size of the project it will make
little to no difference to replace those parts.
Marcel
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: GRANSCOTT@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 12:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB bagage door seal angle
In a message dated 5/11/06 5:29:01 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
VHMUM@bigpond.com writes:
Unfortunately, you have one of the QB fuselages that the
Philippines messed up. Your only option is to remove the parts
that are not assembled according to instructions and fix them. We
have since gotten them to build the baggage door area correctly,
but that doesn't help you. We apologize for their oversight and the
extra work that it has caused you.
I'm not an attorney but it would seem to me that if Van's is
admittingthey made a mistake as they are the prime contractor then they
should have recalled the product and replaced it with a quality product
and/or paid the people who are fixing the poor product compensation.
This above paragraph has a funny smell to it.
Patrick
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: QB bagage door seal angle |
In a message dated 5/12/06 8:54:31 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com writes:
In addition there's a bit on the Van's web site, legal terms point 7.
Marcel, just because they write a disclaimer does not make it legal..its
just their and their attorney's belief that the statement covers something..it
is a court or jury's opinion...that's what counts.
If they make something out of spec and sell it, it's not caveat emptor...it
seems to me that they are lacking QA control on a fairly important item...that
control is not in the clients hands, but you are relying on them to provide
you with the product as specified, if they don't do that then they need to
recall that product and provide you with the quality specified or make some
type of replacement/compensation etc.
Having their customer rework their QA issue is OK as long as you've been
notified that the product you are receiving is out of spec...They have the
ability to QA the product in the Philippines, at port, at shipping point etc
before releasing it...you the buyer only when it arrives and you begin working
on
it. I don't believe there is a lot of case law on their side, and I dealt
with QA issues for decades...your boiler plate can contain all kinds of
statement that will not hold up in court to discourage some people from taking
action..it's part of the game. But boiler plates generally do not protect a
manufacturer quality/warranty/liability issues IMHO. Mileage may vary.
It's sort of like saying...we've got a problem...the people in my plant are
making crap, but I sold it to you and now it's your problem...have a nice day.
I don't mean to take a brush out and paint but the statement from Van's did
not sound very customer friendly, it did explain what happened and what
they've done since. As long as all are happy then that's a good thing that they
are open and frank about the problem.
I wish I could have used the same statement when we made off spec product,
but I was dealing with a closed group of customers and our reputation would
have gone in the "community" pot if we had taken this type of attitude. My
plant goofed up a bit but it now your problem...I really don't know how poor the
product was before they made the correction, maybe it was somewhat minor but
their comment sure was interesting, none the less.
Patrick
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
I have the CH products gripes. The sales rep is an RV-6 driver. It has all the
same features as most, coolie hat, trigger, pinky and two thumb buttons. One nice
feature is you can set the grip to allow it to swivel so it lines up with
your hand as you bank and pitch. I'm not saying it's spins around freely and all
loose, but the machined stick insert has a machined grove that the set screw
rides in and the tension can be adjusted or locked fully down so there is no
movement. I haven't tried to play with it yet. I read about the feature on a
RV-7 site.
http://www.chproducts.com/retail/aircraft.html
Rick S.
40185
Fuse/fini
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
I love these grips. I had them on my RV-9A on both sides as
well as my RV-10 (not flying yet). I have the left and right hand
version on each side. I mounted them at a 20 degree angle to the
centerline which is what I found to be the neutral position of my
forearm while my elbow rest on my lap. I even made my own circuit
boards that I put a DB15 connector on the wires from this grip and then
I have a db25 connector on the board that interfaces to everything else
in the plane. I have the hat switch run the ailron and elevator trims
via a onboard mosfet drivers. I have a flap toggle switch which is a
momentary on-off-on which the center is off. The other three location
have simple single pole single throw switches that I use for Audio Panel
Com Swap, Radio Act/Stby Swap, Transponder Ident, Auto Pilot disconnect.
This board I made can control three outputs for this gear as well as the
Ailron, Elavator and Flap motors. This is all solid state and no
relays. I then have another board on the co-pilot side that connects to
the pilot side with a 2 wire CAN bus. This is where any button on the
right stick can send commands to the left control to run the motors.
I've talked to the owner of Infinity Aerospace and he wants to
see what I have done and possibly sell them.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250 (First flight in 2 weeks.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
seanblair@adelphia.net
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 11:59 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip
--> RV10-List message posted by: seanblair@adelphia.net
Hey everyone,
I am looking at the Infinity Aerospace Grips and they seem to be what I
want. It looks like several builders have installed these as well.
Could you flying users of this equipment share your impressions and
configurations of the buttons/switches?
Also, is there anything you would like to change about the configuration
you chose? Is it difficult to correct this after the installation?
Does the specific right or left hand molding bother you? Would you
prefer having a "neutral" grip?
Thanks!
Sean B.
#40225
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer@verizon.net>
Thanks, I'll look into it! Mark
Message 10
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| Subject: | QB baggage door seal angle |
Pat, good points are made by both of you and Marcel. However, don't
forget that RV builders (RVATORS) are highly tolerant, devotional, and
litigation adverse. It is a tragic fact that little QC or QA exists
going out the door from VANS. We have been spoiled by the CNC precision
down to 0.001 and the match drill concept of assembly. There are still
many who remember what the words fabrication meant with the RV-4. Yes,
some of the fiberglass work is atrocious, some parts are indeed out of
tolerance and some parts have induced stress or cracks which need to be
dealt with by the ultimate builder, and occasionally there will be a
Service Bulletin to correct needed and glaring faults. This is an
Amateur Built - Experimental (being pursued for your own exclusive
education) and as such every single decision to use a part, attach a
part and certify its quality to the DAR is solely the builder's. Any
effort to point a finger at someone else will remain irresponsible. If
they don't care enough to fix the leak, then bail the boat, swim or hold
your breath. Did I miss any options once you board?
Orders continue because it remains a great choice among the
alternatives. Tracked Lancair fatalities lately?
John Cox
Do not Archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
GRANSCOTT@aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 6:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB bagage door seal angle
In a message dated 5/12/06 8:54:31 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com writes:
In addition there's a bit on the Van's web site, legal terms
point 7.
Marcel, just because they write a disclaimer does not make it legal..its
just their and their attorney's belief that the statement covers
something..it is a court or jury's opinion...that's what counts.
If they make something out of spec and sell it, it's not caveat
emptor...it seems to me that they are lacking QA control on a fairly
important item...that control is not in the clients hands, but you are
relying on them to provideyou with the product as specified, if they
don't do that then they need to recall that product and provide you with
the quality specified or make sometype of replacement/compensation etc.
Having their customer rework their QA issue is OK as long as you've been
notified that the product you are receiving is out of spec...They
havethe ability to QA the product in the Philippines, at port, at
shipping point etc before releasing it...you the buyer only when it
arrives and you begin working on it. I don't believe there is a lot of
case law on their side, and I dealt with QA issues for decades...your
boiler plate can contain all kinds of statement that will not hold up in
court to discourage some people from taking action..it's part of the
game. But boiler plates generally do not protect a manufacturer
quality/warranty/liability issues IMHO. Mileage may vary.
It's sort of like saying...we've got a problem...the people in my plant
are making crap, but I sold it to you and now it's your problem...have a
nice day.
I don't mean to take a brush out and paint but the statement from Van's
did not sound very customer friendly, it did explain what happened and
what they've done since. As long as all are happy then that's a good
thing that they are open and frank about the problem.
I wish I could have used the same statement when we made off spec
product, but I was dealing with a closed group of customers and our
reputation wouldhave gone in the "community" pot if we had taken this
type of attitude. My plant goofed up a bit but it now your problem...I
really don't know how poor the product was before they made the
correction, maybe it was somewhat minor but their comment sure was
interesting, none the less.
Patrick
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
While were on the grip thing, How did you route your leads from the stick? Did
you drill the curved portion or route them on the outside of the stick. Did anyone
cut their sticks down to their most comfy position? I assume they will be
too long as is, I need to mount a seat to check my length.
Rick S.
40185
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Rick,
Have you seen the past photos from other members with the hole cut
in the rear face of the vertical part of the stick so the wires
can be stuffed and run down the tube itself? I have photos in
my stuff if you can't find them.
As far as length, I think most people will want to cut them
(if you add different grips) to about the minimum length, but
at that height, they're not all that high above your thighs
when you fly...so I wouldn't worry too much for them being
too high after you cut them. If you don't cut them enough
though, you'll definitely have them hitting the panel edge,
so don't put any critical switches on the panel directly in front
of the stick!
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> While were on the grip thing, How did you route your leads from the
> stick? Did you drill the curved portion or route them on the outside
> of the stick. Did anyone cut their sticks down to their most comfy
> position? I assume they will be too long as is, I need to mount a
> seat to check my length.
>
> Rick S. 40185
>
>
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: QB baggage door seal angle |
Cc: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
Ya'll think you have RV-10 problems with Van's. Ya need to talk to a old
Harley rider about the factory fit of ANY replacement parts. Why yes we
did take RV-4 (no punched, marked or shown holes) parts & plans mix with
Harmon Rocket parts & plans and ended up with an HRII. Only won two
trophies so far. We also had the used engine checked out, brought up to
spec's by the engine shop but built it up ourselves.
Sorry John but you left out the cheese to go with all the whine.
KABONG HRII N561FS Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: John W. Cox
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 8:46 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB baggage door seal angle
Pat, good points are made by both of you and Marcel. However, don't
forget that RV builders (RVATORS) are highly tolerant, devotional, and
litigation adverse. It is a tragic fact that little QC or QA exists
going out the door from VANS. We have been spoiled by the CNC precision
down to 0.001 and the match drill concept of assembly. There are still
many who remember what the words fabrication meant with the RV-4. Yes,
some of the fiberglass work is atrocious, some parts are indeed out of
tolerance and some parts have induced stress or cracks which need to be
dealt with by the ultimate builder, and occasionally there will be a
Service Bulletin to correct needed and glaring faults. This is an
Amateur Built - Experimental (being pursued for your own exclusive
education) and as such every single decision to use a part, attach a
part and certify its quality to the DAR is solely the builder's. Any
effort to point a finger at someone else will remain irresponsible. If
they don't care enough to fix the leak, then bail the boat, swim or hold
your breath. Did I miss any options once you board?
Orders continue because it remains a great choice among the
alternatives. Tracked Lancair fatalities lately?
John Cox
Do not Archive
Message 14
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
I have another plan for removing tunnel heat I'd like to bounce off the
list. My Q2 had issues in that the fuselage was sealed so tight you
wouldn't get cooling air into the cabin without drilling some exit holes in
the back. Seems to me that if I put some tubing at the back end of the
tunnel venting the tunnel out the bottom then the airflow in through the
cooling vents would find it's way into the gap at the front/top of the
tunnel and force cooling air into the tunnel. I figured tubes angled down
and aft would be better rather than just cutting holes as that way fluids
from weather or washing wouldn't find their way into the airplane (as
easily). Any flaws with the plan?
BTW, I just got my seats back from a local guy that does upholstery for hot
rods. They came out fantastic for a total of $700 (non-leather) for all 4
seats.
Thanks,
Marcus
Do not archive
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: QB baggage door seal angle |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
Message 16
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Seat Pictures?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I have another plan for removing tunnel heat I'd like to bounce off the
> list. My Q2 had issues in that the fuselage was sealed so tight you
> wouldn't get cooling air into the cabin without drilling some exit holes
> in
> the back. Seems to me that if I put some tubing at the back end of the
> tunnel venting the tunnel out the bottom then the airflow in through the
> cooling vents would find it's way into the gap at the front/top of the
> tunnel and force cooling air into the tunnel. I figured tubes angled down
> and aft would be better rather than just cutting holes as that way fluids
> from weather or washing wouldn't find their way into the airplane (as
> easily). Any flaws with the plan?
>
> BTW, I just got my seats back from a local guy that does upholstery for
> hot
> rods. They came out fantastic for a total of $700 (non-leather) for all 4
> seats.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | QB baggage door seal angle |
Thanks for the perspective. I forgot the Cheeze Whiz. Just for
balance, it is no different with certified airline birds manufactured
under a TCDS. Parts don't fit, design is flawed, some modification
required. It all pays the same.
As a footnote John, it's the Harmon Rockets that have given Van most of
his heartburn lately (35 years in business). In comparison to the
Lancairs, they are right up there. Have you checked the fatality in
California?
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JOHN STARN
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 9:57 AM
Cc: Tom Gummo
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB baggage door seal angle
Ya'll think you have RV-10 problems with Van's. Ya need to talk to a old
Harley rider about the factory fit of ANY replacement parts. Why yes we
did take RV-4 (no punched, marked or shown holes) parts & plans mix with
Harmon Rocket parts & plans and ended up with an HRII. Only won two
trophies so far. We also had the used engine checked out, brought up to
spec's by the engine shop but built it up ourselves.
Sorry John but you left out the cheese to go with all the whine.
KABONG HRII N561FS Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: John W. Cox
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 8:46 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB baggage door seal angle
Pat, good points are made by both of you and Marcel. However,
don't forget that RV builders (RVATORS) are highly tolerant, devotional,
and litigation adverse. It is a tragic fact that little QC or QA exists
going out the door from VANS. We have been spoiled by the CNC precision
down to 0.001 and the match drill concept of assembly. There are still
many who remember what the words fabrication meant with the RV-4. Yes,
some of the fiberglass work is atrocious, some parts are indeed out of
tolerance and some parts have induced stress or cracks which need to be
dealt with by the ultimate builder, and occasionally there will be a
Service Bulletin to correct needed and glaring faults. This is an
Amateur Built ' Experimental (being pursued for your own exclusive
education) and as such every single decision to use a part, attach a
part and certify its quality to the DAR is solely the builder's. Any
effort to point a finger at someone else will remain irresponsible. If
they don't care enough to fix the leak, then bail the boat, swim or hold
your breath. Did I miss any options once you board?
Orders continue because it remains a great choice among the
alternatives. Tracked Lancair fatalities lately?
John Cox
Do not Archive
Message 18
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|
What methods have been used to lift the fuselage and get it on its gear?
Jacks? straps? etc?
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Engine prices |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gorejr@bellsouth.net>
Who do you buy the modified cowl from? Jim
>
> From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda@bpaengines.com>
> Date: 2006/05/11 Thu AM 09:55:06 EDT
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: FW: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
> Ron:
>
>
>
> Let me clarify, the ceramic coated exhaust is not required with the BPE
> IO-540-X, it is merely an option. The ceramic coating is designed to
> keep radiant heat out of the cowl (there has been significant discussion
> of this issue on the lists.) We like the Forsling exhaust, because we
> have tested it on our dyno and found that it runs nice and gives a small
> hp boost on the engine we ran (a new IO-540-X with 9.5:1 compression and
> Barrett's Cold Air Induction.) You can use any exhaust you choose. You
> would only need the modified cowl if you decided to run our Cold Air
> Induction, which is a performance upgrade. It is my understanding that
> the modified cowl is scheduled to be priced very similarly to Van's
> standard cowl. The IO-540 without Cold Air does not require any
> modifications. Hope this helps clarify.
>
>
>
> Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
>
> Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
>
> 2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
>
> Tulsa, OK 74115
>
> (918) 835-1089 phone
>
> (918) 835-1745 fax
>
> www.barrettprecisionengines.com
> <http://www.barrettprecisionengines.com/>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
> Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:11 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
>
>
> There's only ~$1K difference between the Vans and Aerosport engines, yet
> Vans is certified. Why would anyone buy an experimental from Aero
> Sport?? What are the extra 'bangs' that you get for your Aero Sport
> 'bucks'??
>
> The high performance BPA engine looks like a great package, but throw in
> the required ceramic exhaust and a non standard cowl and it becomes an
> expensive proposition.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Thursday, 11 May 2006 9:25 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> Van's price is for a certified Lycoming. the Aero Sport and Mattituck
> are experimantal (i.e. the name plate on the engine is from the engine
> builder vs Lycoming. They are built from kits that the engine builders
> get from Lycoming which contain new parts. There was a price increase
> not too long ago and it has taken some time for the builders to update
> their web sites. I suspect that Mattitucks price is now closer to
> Aerosport, BPS, G&N etc.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Fuse
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> McGANN, Ron wrote:
>
> > G'day all,
> >
> > Time to spend some BIG bucks.
> >
> > Can anyone please explain why there is such a price differential
> > between the Vans and Aerosport Power IO540s at ~$42K, versus
> > Mattitucks TMXIO540 at $34K? I am a 'queer trader' by profession
> > (Electronic Systems) and this 'black hander' stuff is all voodoo to
> > me. I am totally ignorant on all engine related issues, so be gentle
> > . . .
> >
> > thanks in advance,
> > Ron
> > #187
> >
>
>
>
>
> browse Subscriptions page, Chat, FAQ,
> HREF"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
> com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> Wiki!
> HREF"http://wiki.matronics.com">http://wiki.matronics.com
>
> support!
> HREF"http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
> tribution
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
I had a Drgonfly with the same problem as your Q2. I tried your
solution on my Dragonfly without success. I think that it is a crab
shoot when it comes to these modifications. I ended up living with
the heat.
Do not archive.
On 5/12/06, Marcus Cooper <coop85@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I have another plan for removing tunnel heat I'd like to bounce off the
> list. My Q2 had issues in that the fuselage was sealed so tight you
> wouldn't get cooling air into the cabin without drilling some exit holes in
> the back. Seems to me that if I put some tubing at the back end of the
> tunnel venting the tunnel out the bottom then the airflow in through the
> cooling vents would find it's way into the gap at the front/top of the
> tunnel and force cooling air into the tunnel. I figured tubes angled down
> and aft would be better rather than just cutting holes as that way fluids
> from weather or washing wouldn't find their way into the airplane (as
> easily). Any flaws with the plan?
>
> BTW, I just got my seats back from a local guy that does upholstery for hot
> rods. They came out fantastic for a total of $700 (non-leather) for all 4
> seats.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 21
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda@BPAENGINES.com>
Sam James is designing the modified cowl, and the first production cowl
is scheduled to be on display at OSH.
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gorejr@bellsouth.net
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: FW: RV10-List: Engine prices
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gorejr@bellsouth.net>
Who do you buy the modified cowl from? Jim
>
> From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda@bpaengines.com>
> Date: 2006/05/11 Thu AM 09:55:06 EDT
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: FW: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
> Ron:
>
>
>
> Let me clarify, the ceramic coated exhaust is not required with the
BPE
> IO-540-X, it is merely an option. The ceramic coating is designed to
> keep radiant heat out of the cowl (there has been significant
discussion
> of this issue on the lists.) We like the Forsling exhaust, because we
> have tested it on our dyno and found that it runs nice and gives a
small
> hp boost on the engine we ran (a new IO-540-X with 9.5:1 compression
and
> Barrett's Cold Air Induction.) You can use any exhaust you choose.
You
> would only need the modified cowl if you decided to run our Cold Air
> Induction, which is a performance upgrade. It is my understanding
that
> the modified cowl is scheduled to be priced very similarly to Van's
> standard cowl. The IO-540 without Cold Air does not require any
> modifications. Hope this helps clarify.
>
>
>
> Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
>
> Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
>
> 2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
>
> Tulsa, OK 74115
>
> (918) 835-1089 phone
>
> (918) 835-1745 fax
>
> www.barrettprecisionengines.com
> <http://www.barrettprecisionengines.com/>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
> Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:11 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
>
>
> There's only ~$1K difference between the Vans and Aerosport engines,
yet
> Vans is certified. Why would anyone buy an experimental from Aero
> Sport?? What are the extra 'bangs' that you get for your Aero Sport
> 'bucks'??
>
> The high performance BPA engine looks like a great package, but throw
in
> the required ceramic exhaust and a non standard cowl and it becomes an
> expensive proposition.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Thursday, 11 May 2006 9:25 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> Van's price is for a certified Lycoming. the Aero Sport and Mattituck
> are experimantal (i.e. the name plate on the engine is from the
engine
> builder vs Lycoming. They are built from kits that the engine builders
> get from Lycoming which contain new parts. There was a price increase
> not too long ago and it has taken some time for the builders to
update
> their web sites. I suspect that Mattitucks price is now closer to
> Aerosport, BPS, G&N etc.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Fuse
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> McGANN, Ron wrote:
>
> > G'day all,
> >
> > Time to spend some BIG bucks.
> >
> > Can anyone please explain why there is such a price differential
> > between the Vans and Aerosport Power IO540s at ~$42K, versus
> > Mattitucks TMXIO540 at $34K? I am a 'queer trader' by profession
> > (Electronic Systems) and this 'black hander' stuff is all voodoo to
> > me. I am totally ignorant on all engine related issues, so be
gentle
> > . . .
> >
> > thanks in advance,
> > Ron
> > #187
> >
>
>
>
>
> browse Subscriptions page, Chat, FAQ,
>
HREF"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
> com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> Wiki!
> HREF"http://wiki.matronics.com">http://wiki.matronics.com
>
> support!
>
HREF"http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
> tribution
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: QB baggage door seal angle |
Lets be clear.
The awards are "Peoples Choice Awards" from the local Apple Valley
Airport open houses.
Having a military style paint job, sets the plane apart from the spam
cans also parked on the ramp during the open house.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
PS - I have found after years of knowing Jack, AKA, KABONG. He
sometimes needs a translator. :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: JOHN STARN
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Cc: Tom Gummo
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB baggage door seal angle
Ya'll think you have RV-10 problems with Van's. Ya need to talk to a
old Harley rider about the factory fit of ANY replacement parts. Why yes
we did take RV-4 (no punched, marked or shown holes) parts & plans mix
with Harmon Rocket parts & plans and ended up with an HRII. Only won two
trophies so far. We also had the used engine checked out, brought up to
spec's by the engine shop but built it up ourselves.
Sorry John but you left out the cheese to go with all the whine.
KABONG HRII N561FS Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: John W. Cox
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 8:46 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB baggage door seal angle
Pat, good points are made by both of you and Marcel. However, don't
forget that RV builders (RVATORS) are highly tolerant, devotional, and
litigation adverse. It is a tragic fact that little QC or QA exists
going out the door from VANS. We have been spoiled by the CNC precision
down to 0.001 and the match drill concept of assembly. There are still
many who remember what the words fabrication meant with the RV-4. Yes,
some of the fiberglass work is atrocious, some parts are indeed out of
tolerance and some parts have induced stress or cracks which need to be
dealt with by the ultimate builder, and occasionally there will be a
Service Bulletin to correct needed and glaring faults. This is an
Amateur Built - Experimental (being pursued for your own exclusive
education) and as such every single decision to use a part, attach a
part and certify its quality to the DAR is solely the builder's. Any
effort to point a finger at someone else will remain irresponsible. If
they don't care enough to fix the leak, then bail the boat, swim or hold
your breath. Did I miss any options once you board?
Orders continue because it remains a great choice among the
alternatives. Tracked Lancair fatalities lately?
John Cox
Do not Archive
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: QB baggage door seal angle.enough!!! |
Guys I posted a simple question ...lets not make it a primer war!!!!
Boring!!!
Chris
Do not archive
Message 24
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
I've heard of shooting "fish in a barrel", but never shooting crabs . .
. : )
TDT
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: tunnel heat
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
I had a Drgonfly with the same problem as your Q2. I tried your
solution on my Dragonfly without success. I think that it is a crab
shoot when it comes to these modifications. I ended up living with
the heat.
Do not archive.
On 5/12/06, Marcus Cooper <coop85@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
<coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I have another plan for removing tunnel heat I'd like to bounce off
the
> list. My Q2 had issues in that the fuselage was sealed so tight you
> wouldn't get cooling air into the cabin without drilling some exit
holes in
> the back. Seems to me that if I put some tubing at the back end of
the
> tunnel venting the tunnel out the bottom then the airflow in through
the
> cooling vents would find it's way into the gap at the front/top of the
> tunnel and force cooling air into the tunnel. I figured tubes angled
down
> and aft would be better rather than just cutting holes as that way
fluids
> from weather or washing wouldn't find their way into the airplane (as
> easily). Any flaws with the plan?
>
> BTW, I just got my seats back from a local guy that does upholstery
for hot
> rods. They came out fantastic for a total of $700 (non-leather) for
all 4
> seats.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 25
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Men! "Lift, hold...higher...a little to the left...lower...hold..."
We put a table under the tail and jacked up the front with a board under
the spar center section.
do not archive.
> What methods have been used to lift the fuselage and get it on its gear?
> Jacks? straps? etc?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Engine prices |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gorejr@bellsouth.net>
Does the modified cowl have a larger lower opening for the cold induction? Thanks
Jim I think it needs to be 3 1/2 inch diameter.
>
> From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda@bpaengines.com>
> Date: 2006/05/12 Fri PM 04:22:31 EDT
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: FW: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda@BPAENGINES.com>
>
> Sam James is designing the modified cowl, and the first production cowl
> is scheduled to be on display at OSH.
>
> Rhonda
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> gorejr@bellsouth.net
> Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 3:13 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: FW: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gorejr@bellsouth.net>
>
> Who do you buy the modified cowl from? Jim
> >
> > From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda@bpaengines.com>
> > Date: 2006/05/11 Thu AM 09:55:06 EDT
> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: FW: RV10-List: Engine prices
> >
> > Ron:
> >
> >
> >
> > Let me clarify, the ceramic coated exhaust is not required with the
> BPE
> > IO-540-X, it is merely an option. The ceramic coating is designed to
> > keep radiant heat out of the cowl (there has been significant
> discussion
> > of this issue on the lists.) We like the Forsling exhaust, because we
> > have tested it on our dyno and found that it runs nice and gives a
> small
> > hp boost on the engine we ran (a new IO-540-X with 9.5:1 compression
> and
> > Barrett's Cold Air Induction.) You can use any exhaust you choose.
> You
> > would only need the modified cowl if you decided to run our Cold Air
> > Induction, which is a performance upgrade. It is my understanding
> that
> > the modified cowl is scheduled to be priced very similarly to Van's
> > standard cowl. The IO-540 without Cold Air does not require any
> > modifications. Hope this helps clarify.
> >
> >
> >
> > Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
> >
> > Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
> >
> > 2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
> >
> > Tulsa, OK 74115
> >
> > (918) 835-1089 phone
> >
> > (918) 835-1745 fax
> >
> > www.barrettprecisionengines.com
> > <http://www.barrettprecisionengines.com/>
> >
> > ________________________________
> >
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:11 PM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine prices
> >
> >
> >
> > There's only ~$1K difference between the Vans and Aerosport engines,
> yet
> > Vans is certified. Why would anyone buy an experimental from Aero
> > Sport?? What are the extra 'bangs' that you get for your Aero Sport
> > 'bucks'??
> >
> > The high performance BPA engine looks like a great package, but throw
> in
> > the required ceramic exhaust and a non standard cowl and it becomes an
> > expensive proposition.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> > Sent: Thursday, 11 May 2006 9:25 AM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine prices
> >
> >
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
> >
> > Van's price is for a certified Lycoming. the Aero Sport and Mattituck
> > are experimantal (i.e. the name plate on the engine is from the
> engine
> > builder vs Lycoming. They are built from kits that the engine builders
> > get from Lycoming which contain new parts. There was a price increase
> > not too long ago and it has taken some time for the builders to
> update
> > their web sites. I suspect that Mattitucks price is now closer to
> > Aerosport, BPS, G&N etc.
> >
> > Deems Davis # 406
> > Fuse
> > http://deemsrv10.com/
> >
> > McGANN, Ron wrote:
> >
> > > G'day all,
> > >
> > > Time to spend some BIG bucks.
> > >
> > > Can anyone please explain why there is such a price differential
> > > between the Vans and Aerosport Power IO540s at ~$42K, versus
> > > Mattitucks TMXIO540 at $34K? I am a 'queer trader' by profession
> > > (Electronic Systems) and this 'black hander' stuff is all voodoo to
> > > me. I am totally ignorant on all engine related issues, so be
> gentle
> > > . . .
> > >
> > > thanks in advance,
> > > Ron
> > > #187
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > browse Subscriptions page, Chat, FAQ,
> >
> HREF"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
> > com/Navigator?RV10-List
> >
> > Wiki!
> > HREF"http://wiki.matronics.com">http://wiki.matronics.com
> >
> > support!
> >
> HREF"http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
> > tribution
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Engine prices |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Jim, I just went through this as I've ordered The BPA IOP 540-X w/ 9:1
pistons, the CAS system, the John Forsling tuned Exhaust and the James
Cowl/Plemmum. According to Will James, The modified cowl will have a
different shaped opening similar to a 'smiley face' to accommodate the
forward facing Barrett Cold Air Induction system. They pointed me to the
eggenfellner website, and the posted pictures of their new cowl for
their H6 engine. here's the link
http://eggenfellneraircraft.com/100_1866.JPG.
Will has been working with Jan & co developing the new cowl for their 6
cyl engine. He is currently working with an RV10 builder who is getting
close to flying and Allen Barrett (BPA) on the Cold air mod, as I
understand it they have already made at least one cowl that's intended
to be a throw away just for test fit purposes. the plan is to have it
all finalized by OSH and be ready for production cowls from final molds.
btw, the reports on the Forsling ceramic coated exhaust is that you can
hold you hand within 1/2 to 1 inch of the manifolds on a running engine
and not get burned. I'm hoping this will help with the reported tunnel
heating probs, that appear to have their root in the heat build up that
occurs in the Van's cowl. As I've recently learned, the openings in the
Van's cowl are soo large that more air bubbles back out of the cowl
around the prop than goes through the baffles and exits through the cowl
openings in the bottom. It all equals a BIG amount of drag. All of that
warm air bubbling around within the cowl can't be a good thing. The down
side to the Forsling exhaust is that if you live in a cold climate (I
don't, it was 103 here today), you will have a harder time pulling heat
off of the exhaust.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
Message 28
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I just went through that one last weekend - alone! Mine was on a pallet
with numerous sections of the packing foam (Vans supplied) between the
pallet and fuselage. I was able to lift the left side at enough angle to
slide the gear leg in (and out and back in after de-burring). Careful
not to roll over enough to wind up in the floor on the side :-). For the
right side - old fashion jacks and blocks - but that's a little scary
alone. I definitely recommend assistance. A lift to the ceiling would
have been way to easy.
Byron #40253 finishing kit/firewall forward.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 4:07 PM
Subject: RV10-List: lifting
What methods have been used to lift the fuselage and get it on its gear?
Jacks? straps? etc?
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Engine prices |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Here's another pic link of the eggenfellner cowl:
http://eggenfellneraircraft.com/100_1871.JPG
I also just remembered something additional that plays into this
discussion, that the James cowl requires a 14" prop spinner.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 30
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How high do you lift it? I have a bigger stronger partner than myself
and a 2 ton hydraulic crane so it sounds like will not be a problem if I
get some rated straps and use the crane.
----- Original Message -----
From: Byron Gillespie
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 7:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: lifting
I just went through that one last weekend - alone! Mine was on a
pallet with numerous sections of the packing foam (Vans supplied)
between the pallet and fuselage. I was able to lift the left side at
enough angle to slide the gear leg in (and out and back in after
de-burring). Careful not to roll over enough to wind up in the floor on
the side J. For the right side - old fashion jacks and blocks - but
that's a little scary alone. I definitely recommend assistance. A lift
to the ceiling would have been way to easy.
Byron #40253 finishing kit/firewall forward.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 4:07 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: lifting
What methods have been used to lift the fuselage and get it on its
gear? Jacks? straps? etc?
Message 31
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I braced the tail on a sawhorse and lifted the front of the
fuselage myself while my wife shoved pallets under it. Then
after the gear was on, I lifted it while she pulled the pallets.
You may want 2 people up front if you're not into future
back surgery.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> Men! "Lift, hold...higher...a little to the left...lower...hold..."
>
> We put a table under the tail and jacked up the front with a board under
> the spar center section.
>
> do not archive.
>
>> What methods have been used to lift the fuselage and get it on its gear?
>> Jacks? straps? etc?
>
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
>
>
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