Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:54 AM - Fiberglass panel options (Tom Gesele)
2. 06:59 AM - Re: Fiberglass panel options (Tim Olson)
3. 07:00 AM - Re: paint (Tim Olson)
4. 09:05 AM - Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? (Chris Johnston)
5. 09:42 AM - Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? (Rick)
6. 10:53 AM - Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? (Mike Lauritsen - Work)
7. 11:21 AM - Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? (Tim Olson)
8. 11:41 AM - Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? (Chris Johnston)
9. 11:46 AM - Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? (Chris Johnston)
10. 11:56 AM - Line drawings (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
11. 12:04 PM - Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? (Tim Olson)
12. 12:21 PM - Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? (Rick)
13. 12:33 PM - Re: Line drawings (Deems Davis)
14. 01:07 PM - Re: Fiberglass panel options (Randy DeBauw)
15. 01:15 PM - Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? (Richard Sipp)
16. 02:33 PM - Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
17. 02:54 PM - Re: Fiberglass panel options (Tom Gesele)
18. 02:58 PM - Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? (Chris Johnston)
19. 03:42 PM - Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
20. 03:57 PM - Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? (rv10builder)
21. 06:07 PM - Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? (John Hasbrouck)
22. 08:00 PM - Re: Retractable (Scott Gesele)
23. 08:45 PM - Re: Line drawings (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
24. 09:27 PM - N519RV did two very short first Flights today. (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
25. 11:33 PM - Re: Fiberglass panel options (DejaVu)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Fiberglass panel options |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tom Gesele <tgesele@optonline.net>
For those who went with one of the after-market fiberglass panels available,
were there any modifications required in the upper fwd fuselage assembly?
Also, is there a rough guesstimate of the difference in weight between the
fiberglass and stock panel?
Thanks,
Tom Gesele #473 - Fuselage
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass panel options |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I can't comment on fiberglass specific mods, but I can tell you
that no matter what kind of panel you go with, you'll probably
need to modify the ribs in the upper forward fuse if you go with
any EFIS product. Those ribs get in the way.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Tom Gesele wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tom Gesele <tgesele@optonline.net>
>
> For those who went with one of the after-market fiberglass panels available,
> were there any modifications required in the upper fwd fuselage assembly?
>
> Also, is there a rough guesstimate of the difference in weight between the
> fiberglass and stock panel?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Gesele #473 - Fuselage
>
>
Message 3
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Jim & Julie,
That paint looks fantastic. I have a question for you....I've
seen numerous paint jobs that include a "V" shaped point
downward just forward of the wing, just like yours. Where did
that originate in your ideas? I haven't been able to figure
where it came from.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jim & Julie Wade wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwadejr@hughes.net>
>
> Just out of the paint booth!!!!
>
> Jim & Julie Wade
> 40383
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=36444#36444
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/pict0563_180.jpg
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Hey all -
I'm just about to get started on the firewall section of the fuse
(initial assembly) and I wondered about any gotchas in this area. I
don't have the engine yet, and I'm concerned about opening up holes (or
not closing them) when I don't yet have the hardware that goes in there.
I've never built an airplane before, and I don't have a very good mental
picture of all the ins and outs of aircraft engines. I'm using the
standard IO540 so there shouldn't be any nuttiness, but as I got ready
to open up the holes for the control cables, I got nervous. Any info
would be appreciated.
Thanks
cj
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
CJ,
Don't open the holes in the recess if you are planning on doing the throttle quadrant.
Tim Olson I think said he had to close his off and use different routing
for the cable due to the quadrant. Use your C-frame to rivet all the 470-4
rivets...it will save you lots of heartache over bucking the rivets. That's all
I have for you, I'm sure others will have some more.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse/finish
Message 6
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| Subject: | Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike@cleavelandtool.com>
For those just starting the fuse. The c-frame with the cupped set in the
bottom, and the long backrivet set in the top is your best friend for all
the sub-assemblies (as mentioned below). I even prefer it over the squeezer
when noise is not an issue.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
CJ,
Don't open the holes in the recess if you are planning on doing the throttle
quadrant. Tim Olson I think said he had to close his off and use different
routing for the cable due to the quadrant. Use your C-frame to rivet all the
470-4 rivets...it will save you lots of heartache over bucking the rivets.
That's all I have for you, I'm sure others will have some more.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse/finish
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Yes, I had originally enlarged my 3 holes for the cables, but then when
I realized I wanted to use eyeball passthroughs for better routing,
I had to enlarge the holes. Enlarging the outer 2 caused me to run
well into the center hole and basically chew up the metal in that
area. I ended up making nice huge holes in a triangle pattern (upside
down) and then putting a new patch of Stainless over the area with
the holes drilled properly for the eyeballs. It came out great, but
it was a pain, and would have been much easier if I hadn't originally
upsized those 3 holes. Bottom line: Decide if you're going quadrant
(I love mine) and then plan it right from the get-go. You also
should *try* to drill those holes before you mount the engine.
In addition, consider eyeball passthroughs for those thick cables...it
helps make them easier to route to the proper angle as they go through
the firewall.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> CJ,
>
> Don't open the holes in the recess if you are planning on doing the
> throttle quadrant. Tim Olson I think said he had to close his off and
> use different routing for the cable due to the quadrant. Use your
> C-frame to rivet all the 470-4 rivets...it will save you lots of
> heartache over bucking the rivets. That's all I have for you, I'm
> sure others will have some more.
>
> Rick S. 40185 Fuse/finish
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Thanks all for posting. I have an aversion to drilling/enlarging holes
before I am holding in my hand what is supposed to go in them. I'll
wait til I figure things out before I go there.
cj
#40410
fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Yes, I had originally enlarged my 3 holes for the cables, but then when
I realized I wanted to use eyeball passthroughs for better routing,
I had to enlarge the holes. Enlarging the outer 2 caused me to run
well into the center hole and basically chew up the metal in that
area. I ended up making nice huge holes in a triangle pattern (upside
down) and then putting a new patch of Stainless over the area with
the holes drilled properly for the eyeballs. It came out great, but
it was a pain, and would have been much easier if I hadn't originally
upsized those 3 holes. Bottom line: Decide if you're going quadrant
(I love mine) and then plan it right from the get-go. You also
should *try* to drill those holes before you mount the engine.
In addition, consider eyeball passthroughs for those thick cables...it
helps make them easier to route to the proper angle as they go through
the firewall.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> CJ,
>
> Don't open the holes in the recess if you are planning on doing the
> throttle quadrant. Tim Olson I think said he had to close his off and
> use different routing for the cable due to the quadrant. Use your
> C-frame to rivet all the 470-4 rivets...it will save you lots of
> heartache over bucking the rivets. That's all I have for you, I'm
> sure others will have some more.
>
> Rick S. 40185 Fuse/finish
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Also - I heard mention of sealing the firewall recess with proseal? Did
I imagine that or is it a good idea? I expect that cured proseal does
better in that harsh environment than silicon. Thoughts? I'd rather do
it during the installation than after the fact.
Thanks again
cj
#40410
fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Yes, I had originally enlarged my 3 holes for the cables, but then when
I realized I wanted to use eyeball passthroughs for better routing,
I had to enlarge the holes. Enlarging the outer 2 caused me to run
well into the center hole and basically chew up the metal in that
area. I ended up making nice huge holes in a triangle pattern (upside
down) and then putting a new patch of Stainless over the area with
the holes drilled properly for the eyeballs. It came out great, but
it was a pain, and would have been much easier if I hadn't originally
upsized those 3 holes. Bottom line: Decide if you're going quadrant
(I love mine) and then plan it right from the get-go. You also
should *try* to drill those holes before you mount the engine.
In addition, consider eyeball passthroughs for those thick cables...it
helps make them easier to route to the proper angle as they go through
the firewall.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> CJ,
>
> Don't open the holes in the recess if you are planning on doing the
> throttle quadrant. Tim Olson I think said he had to close his off and
> use different routing for the cable due to the quadrant. Use your
> C-frame to rivet all the 470-4 rivets...it will save you lots of
> heartache over bucking the rivets. That's all I have for you, I'm
> sure others will have some more.
>
> Rick S. 40185 Fuse/finish
>
>
Message 10
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|
I'm working up my paint scheme and was wondering if anyone has any good
quality line drawings, maybe vector based, so they can be resized. I
already grab Tim's and was just looking for more options.
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 11:03 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston"
--> <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Hey all -
I'm just about to get started on the firewall section of the fuse
(initial assembly) and I wondered about any gotchas in this area. I
don't have the engine yet, and I'm concerned about opening up holes (or
not closing them) when I don't yet have the hardware that goes in there.
I've never built an airplane before, and I don't have a very good mental
picture of all the ins and outs of aircraft engines. I'm using the
standard IO540 so there shouldn't be any nuttiness, but as I got ready
to open up the holes for the control cables, I got nervous. Any info
would be appreciated.
Thanks
cj
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
It's a great idea to keep CO out of the cockpit. Harder to do
after the fact, but I managed to do my QB fuse and was fine with that.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Chris Johnston wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
> Also - I heard mention of sealing the firewall recess with proseal? Did
> I imagine that or is it a good idea? I expect that cured proseal does
> better in that harsh environment than silicon. Thoughts? I'd rather do
> it during the installation than after the fact.
>
> Thanks again
> cj
> #40410
> fuse
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 11:21 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas?
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Yes, I had originally enlarged my 3 holes for the cables, but then when
> I realized I wanted to use eyeball passthroughs for better routing,
> I had to enlarge the holes. Enlarging the outer 2 caused me to run
> well into the center hole and basically chew up the metal in that
> area. I ended up making nice huge holes in a triangle pattern (upside
> down) and then putting a new patch of Stainless over the area with
> the holes drilled properly for the eyeballs. It came out great, but
> it was a pain, and would have been much easier if I hadn't originally
> upsized those 3 holes. Bottom line: Decide if you're going quadrant
> (I love mine) and then plan it right from the get-go. You also
> should *try* to drill those holes before you mount the engine.
> In addition, consider eyeball passthroughs for those thick cables...it
> helps make them easier to route to the proper angle as they go through
> the firewall.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Rick wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>>
>> CJ,
>>
>> Don't open the holes in the recess if you are planning on doing the
>> throttle quadrant. Tim Olson I think said he had to close his off and
>> use different routing for the cable due to the quadrant. Use your
>> C-frame to rivet all the 470-4 rivets...it will save you lots of
>> heartache over bucking the rivets. That's all I have for you, I'm
>> sure others will have some more.
>>
>> Rick S. 40185 Fuse/finish
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
You didn't imagine it CJ,
It's in the plans to fill the corner holes of the recess with proseal. The plans
also tell you to use proseal on the skin to firewall flanges when you rivet
them, the only place you rivet early in the fuselage is the bottom flange minus
a few rivets that get the short hinge material. The rest of the firewall doesn't
get sealed and riveted until the cowl hinge section. You might want to consider
picking up some of the high temp proseal from Van's in the tube to caulk
the seam between the firewall and the bottom/side skins when you finally rivet
the cowl hinge to the skins and firewall. One tube should allow for both the
hinge and the interior corner. Plans say to use proseal intially on the fuselage
then recommends the high temp stuff I believe or I just decided that's what
I was going to use. I forget but it does call for proseal for sure. Mike makes
a good point about the long back rivet set in the C-frame, I used the suicide
set that came with my C-frame, but since it travels in a bronze bushing it's
not a sucidal as if it were in a rivet gun. :)
Rick S.
40185
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Line drawings |
Try this:
Message 14
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| Subject: | Fiberglass panel options |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
The modification all depends on what you put in the panel. I had almost
no changes to rib (only a slight relief on the lower flange). I moved
the MX20 to the top of the stack so the center rib has no modifications
at all. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Gesele
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 5:52 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fiberglass panel options
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tom Gesele <tgesele@optonline.net>
For those who went with one of the after-market fiberglass panels
available,
were there any modifications required in the upper fwd fuselage
assembly?
Also, is there a rough guesstimate of the difference in weight between
the
fiberglass and stock panel?
Thanks,
Tom Gesele #473 - Fuselage
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
I am fairly certain Van will sell you the documentation only for the
electrical kit, and the firewall forward kit. They did for me. You can use
these to "plan ahead" even if you are not ready to order the parts yet.
Dick Sipp
40065
fuselage completion
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 12:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
> Hey all -
>
> I'm just about to get started on the firewall section of the fuse
> (initial assembly) and I wondered about any gotchas in this area. I
> don't have the engine yet, and I'm concerned about opening up holes (or
> not closing them) when I don't yet have the hardware that goes in there.
> I've never built an airplane before, and I don't have a very good mental
> picture of all the ins and outs of aircraft engines. I'm using the
> standard IO540 so there shouldn't be any nuttiness, but as I got ready
> to open up the holes for the control cables, I got nervous. Any info
> would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> cj
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
In a message dated 5/26/06 12:45 pm, ricksked@earthlink.net writes:
<< Use your C-frame to rivet all the 470-4 rivets...it will save you lots of
heartache over bucking the rivets. >>
keep talking...... I never thought of using the C-frame for seating
rivets. Do you hit the sliding arm with the mallet or rivet gun? What die goes
in which part? (dome of rivet up or down?) What does the job best? Thanks
for any tips!
Steve
Port St. Lucie, FL
772-475-5556
Sent from my Treo 600
Message 17
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| Subject: | Fiberglass panel options |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tom Gesele <tgesele@optonline.net>
First, thanks for the responses to my question.
Second, I was hoping to get information on the mounting differences between
the stock aluminum panel and the various fiberglass substitutes available.
Specifically, looking at the way the stock panel mounts, there is a lower
sub-panel (F-1003B) that screws to the main panel and is riveted to the
fuselage side skins. If you use one of the fiberglass substitutes, is this
piece required, does it require modifications, or is there a piece that
substitutes for it? Also, do any of the three ribs from the F/W to the panel
require any modifications?
Thanks in advance for any insights from those who've already gone this
route.
Tom Gesele #473
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 4:04 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fiberglass panel options
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
The modification all depends on what you put in the panel. I had almost
no changes to rib (only a slight relief on the lower flange). I moved
the MX20 to the top of the stack so the center rib has no modifications
at all. Randy
Message 18
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| Subject: | Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
I checked vans site and they only sell one type of tank sealer. Is this
the high temp stuff? I noticed that they say that this is a new sealer
which replaces the older Proseal. I saw on the label that it says
"Flamemaster". I'm assuming that it somehow masters the flames? Hehe.
But really, it is a higher temp version than the normal proseal from
places like Spruce?
cj
#40410
fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 12:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
You didn't imagine it CJ,
It's in the plans to fill the corner holes of the recess with proseal.
The plans also tell you to use proseal on the skin to firewall flanges
when you rivet them, the only place you rivet early in the fuselage is
the bottom flange minus a few rivets that get the short hinge material.
The rest of the firewall doesn't get sealed and riveted until the cowl
hinge section. You might want to consider picking up some of the high
temp proseal from Van's in the tube to caulk the seam between the
firewall and the bottom/side skins when you finally rivet the cowl hinge
to the skins and firewall. One tube should allow for both the hinge and
the interior corner. Plans say to use proseal intially on the fuselage
then recommends the high temp stuff I believe or I just decided that's
what I was going to use. I forget but it does call for proseal for sure.
Mike makes a good point about the long back rivet set in the C-frame, I
used the suicide set that came with my C-frame, but since it trav!
els in a bronze bushing it's not a sucidal as if it were in a rivet
gun. :)
Rick S.
40185
Message 19
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| Subject: | Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? |
Rather than getting high-temp proseal, save yourself some time and pick
up some fire rated caulk from your local Lowes Depot. Makes more sense
and more suitable to the task.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 2:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
You didn't imagine it CJ,
It's in the plans to fill the corner holes of the recess with proseal.
The plans also tell you to use proseal on the skin to firewall flanges
when you rivet them, the only place you rivet early in the fuselage is
the bottom flange minus a few rivets that get the short hinge material.
The rest of the firewall doesn't get sealed and riveted until the cowl
hinge section. You might want to consider picking up some of the high
temp proseal from Van's in the tube to caulk the seam between the
firewall and the bottom/side skins when you finally rivet the cowl hinge
to the skins and firewall. One tube should allow for both the hinge and
the interior corner. Plans say to use proseal intially on the fuselage
then recommends the high temp stuff I believe or I just decided that's
what I was going to use. I forget but it does call for proseal for sure.
Mike makes a good point about the long back rivet set in the C-frame, I
used the suicide set that came with my C-frame, but since it trav!
els in a bronze bushing it's not a sucidal as if it were in a rivet
gun. :)
Rick S.
40185
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: rv10builder <rv10builder@bellsouth.net>
Van's sells a firewall sealing compound (p/n MC-CS-1900) and gun (p/n
TOOL SEALANT GUN).
Brian
#40308
Chris Johnston wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
>I checked vans site and they only sell one type of tank sealer. Is this
>the high temp stuff? I noticed that they say that this is a new sealer
>which replaces the older Proseal. I saw on the label that it says
>"Flamemaster". I'm assuming that it somehow masters the flames? Hehe.
>But really, it is a higher temp version than the normal proseal from
>places like Spruce?
>
>cj
>#40410
>fuse
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
>Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 12:20 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas?
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
>You didn't imagine it CJ,
>
>It's in the plans to fill the corner holes of the recess with proseal.
>The plans also tell you to use proseal on the skin to firewall flanges
>when you rivet them, the only place you rivet early in the fuselage is
>the bottom flange minus a few rivets that get the short hinge material.
>The rest of the firewall doesn't get sealed and riveted until the cowl
>hinge section. You might want to consider picking up some of the high
>temp proseal from Van's in the tube to caulk the seam between the
>firewall and the bottom/side skins when you finally rivet the cowl hinge
>to the skins and firewall. One tube should allow for both the hinge and
>the interior corner. Plans say to use proseal intially on the fuselage
>then recommends the high temp stuff I believe or I just decided that's
>what I was going to use. I forget but it does call for proseal for sure.
>Mike makes a good point about the long back rivet set in the C-frame, I
>used the suicide set that came with my C-frame, but since it trav!
> els in a bronze bushing it's not a sucidal as if it were in a rivet
>gun. :)
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>.
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Chris,
Your timing is perfect, I just finished mine today! Pay attention to
the nutplates, most are on the aft side of the firewall but two are on the
forward side, see plans. Would be nice to decide if you're going to use a
Matco parking brake. If you do you should modify the brake line bracket and
make a bracket for the parking brake valve. Amen on the "C" frame and back
riveting. The stainless steel is very sharp, wear gloves and no I didn't
enlarge those holes in the recess yet, thanks to following those ahead of me
on this board and learning from their experience.
John
Message 22
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Scott Gesele <sgesele@yahoo.com>
> Time: 07:29:09 AM PST US
> From: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Retractable
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys
> <dmasys@cox.net>
>
> ---- David Maib <dmaib@mac.com> wrote:
>
> > Don't get me wrong, the
> > Bonanza is an awesome airplane, but less
> complexity and similar
> > performance are very attractive to me now.
>
> Had a fun experience last weekend. Flew the -7A to
> Columbus Ohio (CMH) and landed
> at Lane Aviation, where there were acres of Bonanzas
> and Barons on the ramp,
> and a one day Beechcraft pilot proficiency refresher
> course in progress. A
> couple of the Beech drivers struck up a conversation
> with me about that 'cute
> little homebuilt". They were more or less in gloat
> mode until I told them that
> cute little homebuilt had a 75% cruise of 175kts and
> a service ceiling of 25,000
> feet on 11 gph. Got very quiet, except for a
> quietly uttered 'cripes!'.
>
> -Dan Masys
> #40448 wiring & systems installation
>
You are entirely too nice and let them off easy. I
would have added:
"BTW, my last annual cost me $35, I had to change the
oil. This year I will not be so lucky. I have to
replace the ELT battery, reline the brakes and I have
a blown nav night. I figure the annual this year will
be a whopping $50 - $60."
You guys probably don't remember, but a while back
(10+ years) someone with a 4 got the brilliant idea of
engineering retracts. The plane cruised slower,
climber slower and took more runway than an equivalent
4. Needless to say, no one has tried to yank the gear
on an RV since.
Do not archive
Scott Gesele
N506RV, Race 53 (RV-6A, 800+ hrs)
N????? (Tom Gesele's RV-10 fuse sitting in my garage)
Message 23
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Does AI count for Vector based? "grin" but you gotta talk nice !
Dan 40269
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 2:56 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Line drawings
I'm working up my paint scheme and was wondering if anyone has any good
quality line drawings, maybe vector based, so they can be resized. I
already grab Tim's and was just looking for more options.
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 11:03 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage Firewall Gotchas?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston"
--> <CJohnston@popsound.com>
Hey all -
I'm just about to get started on the firewall section of the fuse
(initial assembly) and I wondered about any gotchas in this area. I
don't have the engine yet, and I'm concerned about opening up holes (or
not closing them) when I don't yet have the hardware that goes in there.
I've never built an airplane before, and I don't have a very good mental
picture of all the ins and outs of aircraft engines. I'm using the
standard IO540 so there shouldn't be any nuttiness, but as I got ready
to open up the holes for the control cables, I got nervous. Any info
would be
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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;
& -->
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Email List ; & -->
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Message 24
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| Subject: | N519RV did two very short first Flights today. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com
Today we did the first flight of N519RV (40250). Takeoff seemed
normal at first except my test Pilot Joe Shetterly was only climbing out
at 90 Knots and maybe 500 ft/min with only 2200 lbs. Turns out the
engine was only running at 2100RPM with MP at 28". I think this is what
resulted in the Oil temp running very hot at 250 degrees. Joe landed it
right away and we removed the cowl to let it cool down. OAT was about
90 degrees. Once the oil temp was down to 160, Joe tried another
flight, this time trying to keep the airspeed around 120 Knots, this
airspeed with the low RPM did not allow for very much climb at all.
Around this RPM, I figure it was only developing around 45% power,
enough for a take off compare to a Cessna 150, but no where near the
2,000 ft/min I expected for a 2200 lb gross weight. The prop is able to
cycle fine, but we can't get more that 2100 rpm static on the ground and
that is even after I change the Prop Gov stop to the point where it hit
the hard stop of the metal that hold the stop bolt. It seems that the
prop gov is not allowing the prop to go to full flat pitch to allow the
engine to run to it's full 2700 rpm. I have asked everyone at my local
airport for any suggestion, but so far, no one has come up with anything
we can try to get the RPM up to Take Off RPM. My setup is identical to
most of the other RV-10's that are flying. I bought the Firewall
Forward kit from Van's which included the MT Prop Gov P/N P-860-3 and
the Blended Hartzell Prop HC-C2YR-1BFP/F8068D. My engine is a rebuilt
IO-540-D4A5, dual mags, Precision Silver Hawk EX fuel injection, 260 HP.
If anyone has any ideas on what my problem could be, I would really
appreciate it. We were hoping to fly the 25 hours off this long
weekend, but it's not worth attempting another flight till we try
something that might make a positive change of this situation.
Thanks
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV (Flying, but still having problems)
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass panel options |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@ameritel.net>
Only if you have 3 Cheltons and two of everything, Tim!:) I have two GRTs
side by side and no mods to those ribs.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fiberglass panel options
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I can't comment on fiberglass specific mods, but I can tell you
> that no matter what kind of panel you go with, you'll probably
> need to modify the ribs in the upper forward fuse if you go with
> any EFIS product. Those ribs get in the way.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Tom Gesele wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tom Gesele <tgesele@optonline.net>
>>
>> For those who went with one of the after-market fiberglass panels
>> available,
>> were there any modifications required in the upper fwd fuselage assembly?
>>
>> Also, is there a rough guesstimate of the difference in weight between
>> the
>> fiberglass and stock panel?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Tom Gesele #473 - Fuselage
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
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