Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:45 AM - Re: N519RV did two very short first Flights today. (Roman Bukolt)
2. 08:53 AM - Re: N519RV did two very short first Flights today. (Dj Merrill)
3. 12:37 PM - Gap between governor and upper cowl ramp (IO-540) (Tim Lewis)
4. 03:03 PM - Two New Email Lists at Matronics and Wiki Reminder! (Matt Dralle)
5. 03:30 PM - Re: Gap between governor and upper cowl ramp (IO-540) (Tim Olson)
6. 03:55 PM - Stall Vane (Robert G. Wright)
7. 04:04 PM - Re: Gap between governor and upper cowl ramp (IO-540) (Rob Kermanj)
8. 04:18 PM - Re: Stall Vane (James Hein)
9. 05:26 PM - Re: Stall Vane (Indran Chelvanayagam)
10. 05:33 PM - Air tool refurb. (John Hasbrouck)
11. 05:35 PM - Re: Stall Vane (Robert G. Wright)
12. 06:04 PM - Re: Air tool refurb. (Tim Lewis)
13. 08:01 PM - CI-122 (rv10builder)
14. 08:14 PM - FS: ANR Headsets (Tim Olson)
15. 08:39 PM - Re: Air tool refurb. (Jeff Carpenter)
16. 09:57 PM - Re: Stall Vane and now QB impressions (Robert G. Wright)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: N519RV did two very short first Flights today. |
FYI With an optical Tach you don't have to stand in front of the prop.
It reads th same if you take the reading from the back of the prop.!
Roman Bukolt 40541
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: N519RV did two very short first Flights today. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@deej.net>
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Dj, Ray's not that crazy. ;) He has 2 professional
> pilots helping him with the flyoff, so I'm sure it was one
> of them running the controls. I can't imagine getting out
> of my running plane.
Cool! :-)
I think I will pick up one of those optical tachs. Nice catch that the
one for RC models will work just fine for their big brothers... :-)
-Dj
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Gap between governor and upper cowl ramp (IO-540) |
Listers,
Attached are a couple of photos from my RV-10. One shows the governor,
the other shows the cutout for the governor in the upper cowl ramp. I
have gaps all around the prop governor between the governor and the ramp
cutout. This will permit air to flow from the high pressure side of the
cowling to the low pressure side through the gaps.
Have others encountered similar geometry? What, if anything, have you
done to reduce the leakage?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 830 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Message 4
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| Subject: | Two New Email Lists at Matronics and Wiki Reminder! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
I have added two new email Lists to the Matronics Line up today. These include
a Continental engine List and a Lightning aircraft List:
===========
continental-list@matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Continental-List
Everything related to the Continental aircraft engine. Sky's the limit on discussions
here.
===========
===========
lightning-list@matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Lightning-List
This is an exciting new design from Arion Aircraft LLC in Shelbyville Tennessee. Pete Krotje has a very nice web site on the aircraft that can be found here: http://www.arionaircraft.com/
===========
Also, if you haven't checked out the new Matronics Aircraft Wiki, swing by and
have a look. Remember, a Wiki is only as good as the content that the members
put into it. Have a look over some of the sections, and if you've got some interesting
or useful, please add it to the Wiki! Its all about YOU! :-) The
URL for the Matronics Wiki is:
http://wiki.matronics.com
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Gap between governor and upper cowl ramp (IO-540) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Yep, there needs to be clearance for that arm to travel with the cowl
on. I suppose it would be possible for someone to go into depth and
put rubber seal around the ramp area, but I didn't and doubt that it
has a lot of consequence. I suppose you could also mold in a cutout
with clearance around the governor and have it seal on the backside.
I can't say this wouldn't be great. I just doubt it's necessary.
Basically, as long as that arm doesn't hang up, I think you've got
it where it needs to be.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Tim Lewis wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Attached are a couple of photos from my RV-10. One shows the governor,
> the other shows the cutout for the governor in the upper cowl ramp. I
> have gaps all around the prop governor between the governor and the ramp
> cutout. This will permit air to flow from the high pressure side of the
> cowling to the low pressure side through the gaps.
>
> Have others encountered similar geometry? What, if anything, have you
> done to reduce the leakage?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Lewis
>
Message 6
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I'm assembling the stall vane assembly, and the instructions say not to
torque so much that the vane can't rotate freely. In order for my vane to
rotate freely, the screw/nut that holds it in place also rotates freely.
Yes, the screw is engaged in the self-locking plastic of the nut, so I
consider the nut locked. However, if I tighten the nut just enough that the
screw won't rotate, the vane won't either. So, I can't even tighten the nut
snugly, much less to any torque value. I figure if I leave it the way it is
it'll allow the screw to spin and eventually wear something through, most
likely the aluminum mount plate. Any tips?
Rob Wright
#392 Wings QB
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Gap between governor and upper cowl ramp (IO-540) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
I bridged the governer with the rubber gasket and use screws to attach
it to the alum. baffle so it could be removeable. It is not perfect
but a little better than having it all open.
Do not archive.
On 5/29/06, Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Attached are a couple of photos from my RV-10. One shows the governor,
> the other shows the cutout for the governor in the upper cowl ramp. I
> have gaps all around the prop governor between the governor and the ramp
> cutout. This will permit air to flow from the high pressure side of the
> cowling to the low pressure side through the gaps.
>
> Have others encountered similar geometry? What, if anything, have you
> done to reduce the leakage?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Lewis
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 830 hrs
> RV-10 #40059 under construction
>
>
Message 8
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--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Just file the ends (the ends of the tube the vane is welded to) of the
vane itself a bit so you can tighten the screw so it doesn't turn. Or
just use some loctite on the screw head.
-Jim 40384 (Slow build all the way)
Robert G. Wright wrote:
> Im assembling the stall vane assembly, and the instructions say not
> to torque so much that the vane cant rotate freely. In order for my
> vane to rotate freely, the screw/nut that holds it in place also
> rotates freely. Yes, the screw is engaged in the self-locking plastic
> of the nut, so I consider the nut locked. However, if I tighten the
> nut just enough that the screw wont rotate, the vane wont either.
> So, I cant even tighten the nut snugly, much less to any torque
> value. I figure if I leave it the way it is itll allow the screw to
> spin and eventually wear something through, most likely the aluminum
> mount plate. Any tips?
>
> Rob Wright
>
> #392 Wings QB
>
Message 9
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Try grinding the VA-196 down a little, so that it rotates freely when the
nut is torqued
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Sent: Tuesday, 30 May 2006 6:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Stall Vane
I'm assembling the stall vane assembly, and the instructions say not to
torque so much that the vane can't rotate freely. In order for my vane to
rotate freely, the screw/nut that holds it in place also rotates freely.
Yes, the screw is engaged in the self-locking plastic of the nut, so I
consider the nut locked. However, if I tighten the nut just enough that the
screw won't rotate, the vane won't either. So, I can't even tighten the nut
snugly, much less to any torque value. I figure if I leave it the way it is
it'll allow the screw to spin and eventually wear something through, most
likely the aluminum mount plate. Any tips?
Rob Wright
#392 Wings QB
Message 10
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| Subject: | Air tool refurb. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Anyone know of someone who refurbishes air tools? I have an old Rockwell
90degree air drill for threaded drill bits that needs the head rebuilt.
It's wobbling a good bit now. Any suggestions?
John
Message 11
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Thanks James and Indran, Duh! There I go, pole-vaulting over mouse turds
again.
Rob Wright
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Indran
Chelvanayagam
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 7:25 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stall Vane
Try grinding the VA-196 down a little, so that it rotates freely when the
nut is torqued
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Sent: Tuesday, 30 May 2006 6:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Stall Vane
I'm assembling the stall vane assembly, and the instructions say not to
torque so much that the vane can't rotate freely. In order for my vane to
rotate freely, the screw/nut that holds it in place also rotates freely.
Yes, the screw is engaged in the self-locking plastic of the nut, so I
consider the nut locked. However, if I tighten the nut just enough that the
screw won't rotate, the vane won't either. So, I can't even tighten the nut
snugly, much less to any torque value. I figure if I leave it the way it is
it'll allow the screw to spin and eventually wear something through, most
likely the aluminum mount plate. Any tips?
Rob Wright
#392 Wings QB
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Air tool refurb. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
You might try www.clearairtools.com. He rebuilds and sells many
pneumatic tools. I bought my squeezer from him. Good service,
reasonable price.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 830 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
John Hasbrouck wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> Anyone know of someone who refurbishes air tools? I have an old
> Rockwell 90degree air drill for threaded drill bits that needs the head
> rebuilt. It's wobbling a good bit now. Any suggestions?
>
> John
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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--> RV10-List message posted by: rv10builder <rv10builder@bellsouth.net>
I have decided to take a different route with respect to COM antennas,
so I have two brand new COMANT CI-122 VHF antennas still in the boxes
that I will let go for $100 ea. (+ shipping). Cost me $125 new each
from ACS. Contact me off board if interested...
Brian
#40308
http://www.mykitlog.com/rv10builder
Message 14
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| Subject: | FS: ANR Headsets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
My daughters both recently got Bose headsets for their birthday's,
so now we're a 4 Bose family, and it's time to sell my remaining
other ANR headsets.
My previous headsets, all 4 pairs, were upgraded with the
ANR Headset upgrades from http://www.anr-headsets.com/
and also beyond that, a noise reducing kit similar to the
Oregon Aero Hushkit. (I got the materials and did it myself)
In addition I installed Gel earseals like the David Clark headsets
have.
So these are very nice, very quiet, and good quality headsets,
and I would bet each pair cost me at least $300-350 by the time I
got done with them. The sound quality while listening to stereo
music is excellent, and both are Stereo intercoms with individual
earcup volume controls.
I sold 2 pair previously and have 2 pair for sale right now.
One pair is the Pilot Avionics P-51C Pilot Cadet's for kids:
http://www.pilot-avionics.com/html/html_root/juniorhead.htm
The other is a Flightcom 5DX:
http://www.flightcom.net/headsets/5dx-headset.php
with the ANR it would actually be closer to the
Classic ANR set though.
http://www.flightcom.net/headsets/classic-anr-headset.php
I was going to list them on ebay, but I thought I'd post
them here first in case someone from the RV community was interested.
I stuck them on my site at: http://www.myrv10.com/forsale/headsets/
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Air tool refurb. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Try The Yard. The did a great job of refurbishing my pneumatic
squeezer.
On May 29, 2006, at 5:32 PM, John Hasbrouck wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck"
> <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> Anyone know of someone who refurbishes air tools? I have an old
> Rockwell 90degree air drill for threaded drill bits that needs the
> head rebuilt. It's wobbling a good bit now. Any suggestions?
>
> John
>
>
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> wiki.matronics.com
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Stall Vane and now QB impressions |
A follow up:
For those of you still teetering between QB and regular build, my 4-week old
impressions of the QB Wings are: some things are done too completely, an
example being that some of my holes have been riveted shut that I was
supposed to use for templating; and some other things are done as they
should be, but like Indran said, makes access very difficult at times.
Definitely install all you can before closing the wings up. With access
being the main complaint (not really), I still smile every time I think
about not having to do the mundane repetition of 30-something wing ribs,
gallons of proseal for the tanks, etc. But get a hold of the plans and read
them, there's still plenty of wealth to go around for those tasks as well
here in QB land.
I'd be farther along with the wings but I had to take some days, read the
plans multiple times, let the enormity sink in, and mostly, think almost
abstractly because I couldn't just go step 1 - 50, Section A-Z like the emp
kit. You really gotta try to understand what's left and make your own order
up. The last thing I want is a small but significant pile of parts left at
the end of the build! It does feel good to begin to have a flow to building
again, though.
Rob #392
QB Wings
_____
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Sent: Tuesday, 30 May 2006 8:35 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stall Vane
Thanks James and Indran, Duh! There I go, pole-vaulting over mouse turds
again.
Rob Wright
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Indran
Chelvanayagam
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 7:25 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stall Vane
Try grinding the VA-196 down a little, so that it rotates freely when the
nut is torqued
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Sent: Tuesday, 30 May 2006 6:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Stall Vane
I'm assembling the stall vane assembly, and the instructions say not to
torque so much that the vane can't rotate freely. In order for my vane to
rotate freely, the screw/nut that holds it in place also rotates freely.
Yes, the screw is engaged in the self-locking plastic of the nut, so I
consider the nut locked. However, if I tighten the nut just enough that the
screw won't rotate, the vane won't either. So, I can't even tighten the nut
snugly, much less to any torque value. I figure if I leave it the way it is
it'll allow the screw to spin and eventually wear something through, most
likely the aluminum mount plate. Any tips?
Rob Wright
#392 Wings QB
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