Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:51 AM - Re: Second sub-kit recommendations> (Chris , Susie Darcy)
2. 05:10 AM - Re: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat (Wayne Edgerton)
3. 05:30 AM - Re: Second sub-kit recommendations> (James Hein)
4. 05:41 AM - Re: Second sub-kit recommendations> (Tim Olson)
5. 05:45 AM - Re: Second sub-kit recommendations> (Jesse Saint)
6. 05:53 AM - Re: Today's X/C To Black Hills (Jim & Julie Wade)
7. 05:56 AM - Re: Second sub-kit recommendations> (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
8. 06:23 AM - Re: Second sub-kit recommendations> (egohr1)
9. 06:40 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Tabs (Richard Reynolds)
10. 08:13 AM - Re: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat (Evan and Megan Johnson)
11. 08:28 AM - HS done! Elevators next (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
12. 08:36 AM - Re: Formation fun in the Fraser Valley (Albert Gardner)
13. 08:38 AM - Re: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat (John Jessen)
14. 08:44 AM - Re: HS done! Elevators next (John Jessen)
15. 12:05 PM - Re: HS done! Elevators next (Paul Grimstad)
16. 04:02 PM - Re: Baggage door fit (McGANN, Ron)
17. 07:32 PM - Re: Tricks for inserting long hinge rods (jdalton77)
18. 08:57 PM - QB fuselage stand (dmaib@mac.com)
19. 09:39 PM - Re: QB fuselage stand (Deems Davis)
20. 09:53 PM - Re: Baggage door fit (Deems Davis)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Second sub-kit recommendations> |
Get the wings and get the proseal out of the way!!
----- Original Message -----
From: jdalton77
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 1:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Second sub-kit recommendations>
Greetings,
I'm closing in on completing the tail kit for our -10 and am getting
ready to order the next subkit?
I was planning on getting the wings (all slo-build) but now am leaning
towards to fuse kit.
Any suggestions on which would be better?
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat |
Chris,
I have the same problem with my wife on the hot and cold issue. We
installed on her side a flipper type damper into the opening of the heat
outlet, like you do on your fire place, and she will be able to close it
if she gets to hot. Usually that's the case with us, she's to warm so I
had to close off the heat and then I would freeze.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
getting close to put on the landing gears
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Second sub-kit recommendations> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
If you want to build the fuselage next, you willl need the center spar
section that comes with the wing kit. The center spar section is match
drilled to the wing spars so they ship it with the wing kit.
If you really want to do the fuse next, I think you'll need to buy both
the wing and fuse kit so you have the necessary center spar parts available.
-Jim 40384 Flaps. (Man those wings get heavy after a while...)
jdalton77 wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> I'm closing in on completing the tail kit for our -10 and am getting
> ready to order the next subkit?
>
> I was planning on getting the wings (all slo-build) but now am leaning
> towards to fuse kit.
>
> Any suggestions on which would be better?
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Second sub-kit recommendations> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
They'll poll the Ctr sec. and ship it out to the
islands to build the fuse around. or you Can ship
it black to them.
I for one am REALLY glad I had a QB fuse, but didn't mind
the wings a bit.
Tim
do not archive
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Scott Lewis <rv10@tpg.com.au>
>
> G'day,
>
> As someone who is mid-way through the wings I have only one thought to
> offer; the spar centre section, which the fuse is built around, comes
> with the wing kit.
>
> Seeya,
> Scott Lewis
> RV-10 40172
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
> do not archive
>
> jdalton77 wrote:
>> Greetings,
>>
>> I'm closing in on completing the tail kit for our -10 and am getting
>> ready to order the next subkit?
>>
>> I was planning on getting the wings (all slo-build) but now am leaning
>> towards to fuse kit.
>>
>> Any suggestions on which would be better?
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Second sub-kit recommendations> |
If you want to build the fuse first, then you will have to buy the wings
anyway. One of the first (if not the first) on the fuse is the wing spar
center sections. Without the wing kit, the fuse will just take up space in
your garage. Even if you buy both kits, I would recommend building the
wings first.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jdalton77
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 11:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Second sub-kit recommendations>
Greetings,
I'm closing in on completing the tail kit for our -10 and am getting ready
to order the next subkit?
I was planning on getting the wings (all slo-build) but now am leaning
towards to fuse kit.
Any suggestions on which would be better?
--
--
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Today's X/C To Black Hills |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwadejr@hughes.net>
Hi Tim
If you are not running Gami injectors, you might want to get thier test sheet on
comparing injectors inflight. I think you can download it from their web site.
YOu start leaning slowly and check the temps on all six cylinders as you lean.
You end up with a good idea on how each injector is doing. Not everyone need
Gami's, but most do, inorder to get the temp spread close enough. I have run
Gami's in my 210 for a long time. When you run lean of peak, you can up the
power setting to compensate for the HP loss at lean of peak. You won't lose as
much speed, and the engine likes it!!!! I plan to check mine as soon as I get
it good and broken in and will put in Gami's if needed. With fuel costs, you
can pay for a set of Gami's in no time.
Blue Skies
Jim
40383
Through building!!! Just paint and assembly now.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=38462#38462
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Second sub-kit recommendations> |
That is probably the main reason to go with the wings. You won't get
too far into the fuselage kit before you need those spars. Also the
manual changes drastically by the fuse kit, they are no longer "holding
your hand" and you will be doing a lot of head scratching without the
experience from the wing kit.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Lewis
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 10:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Second sub-kit recommendations>
--> RV10-List message posted by: Scott Lewis <rv10@tpg.com.au>
G'day,
As someone who is mid-way through the wings I have only one thought to
offer; the spar centre section, which the fuse is built around, comes
with the wing kit.
Seeya,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172
Adelaide, South Australia
do not archive
jdalton77 wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> I'm closing in on completing the tail kit for our -10 and am getting
> ready to order the next subkit?
>
> I was planning on getting the wings (all slo-build) but now am leaning
> towards to fuse kit.
>
> Any suggestions on which would be better?
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Second sub-kit recommendations> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "egohr1" <EGOHR86@alumni.carnegiemellon.edu>
Just my $.02. I am just about to finish the ailerons. My skills have gotten much
better building the wings, and a would not want to have a finished fuse sitting
waiting for wings.
Also am building both wings at once, this has cut the time due to economy of scale
on setups.
--------
eric gohr
EGOHR86@alumni.carnegiemellon.edu
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=38466#38466
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Tabs |
I made a "portable" fuel tank tab for my RV-6A. Using my FuelHawk
gage it was easy to bend the tab to the new fuel capacity.
Don't for get to add the string!
Richard Reynolds
Norfolk, VA
RV-6A
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat |
Why don't you just put a door over the opening by your feet....a thin
slider would work. If you are hot and she is cold she can open her side
while you keep yours closed. Or even better would be to put a butterfly
valve in each side of the Tee....that shouldn't be too hard either.
Maybe I should come up with a kit for you guys...any interest?
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 4:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat
I personally would not do this. First of all, the tunnel issue should
have nothing (or at lest very little) to do with the scat tube running
aft. When the vent it closed, there would be no heat in that tube, yet
the tunnel temp doesn=92t seem to change that much whether it is opened
or closed. Second, if you are flying where this plane is most
efficient, then you the front seats would have to be very hot before the
back seats were comfortable. Unless you have a specific exit of air in
the back that would =93suck=94 the hot air from the front, I don=92t
think enough of it would make it back. This may be a common thing with
most planes, but most planes that I have flown in with heat were not
comfortable for both front and back seats when heat was used. I think
you would have much more cross-flow of temp from right to left than
front to back. One easy way to handle this would be to turn the heat up
to where it is comfortable for the one who likes it hot, then the other
person can open the fresh air vent a little to cool it down. The other
option would be to put another valve in to control the flow on the
pilot=92s side, so the right front can get full heat and the left front
can close off a little bit of it.
This is all IMHO.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint (waiting for the container with N415EC in it to arrive in
FL, where engine and instruments will be waiting for it!)
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 6:37 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat
As I install my tunnel components, it occurs to me that I don't think
I've ever been in a single engine airplane that has separate controlled
rear seat heat, but every time I fly with my significant other, she's
usually freezing if I'm comfortable, or I'm too hot when she's just
right. Has anyone besides myself considered having a separate left/right
front heat, and let the warm air find itself aft, like in most other
airplanes? This will solve my issue of separate zones, as well as the
rudder cable clearance issues, and the hot tunnel syndrome. Could you
folks with flying 10s let me know what your thoughts are? Thanks
Chris Hukill
Slowly working QB fuselage
--
6/2/2006
--
6/2/2006
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | HS done! Elevators next |
Here is my HS, "flying" from the garage ceiling.
I closed the rudder with the new version of the Proseal, in the self mix
caulk tube. Very easy to work with, lots of extra mixed material wasted.....
clean up is easy if you dont touch the stuff. I was able to dispense
directly to the inside surface of the right skin, then place the trailing edge
piece
a few clecos from underneath, and add a layer of proseal and then the left
skin, without touching the stuff.
Steve
Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder #40499 Cessna 170B flyer
766 SE River Lane Trimming elevator ribs........
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 cell - evenings and weekends
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Formation fun in the Fraser Valley |
We've always had the ability to enclose pics on the RV-10 list but
please
consider the problems associated with the increase in message size when
you
enclose pics. I reposted the formation pic (very impressive) after using
the
powertoy suggested by Matt and with one click it reduced the formation
pic
from 200K to 50K. I think it would be a good idea for us to reduce pic
size
whenever possible.
Albert Gardner
40422
Yuma, AZ
http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx
-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Rob Prior (rv7)
Subject: RV-List: Formation fun in the Fraser Valley
Since we now have this fancy attachment system, it seems a waste not to
at
least try it. This was taken yesterday while flying between Langley, BC
and Chilliwack, BC.
-Rob
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Rear seat vs dual zone front heat |
yep, but something easily controlled by the individual who needs the change,
especially the right seat. let the left seat stay flying, not fiddling.
John J
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Evan and Megan
Johnson
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 8:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat
Why don't you just put a door over the opening by your feet....a thin slider
would work. If you are hot and she is cold she can open her side while you
keep yours closed. Or even better would be to put a butterfly valve in each
side of the Tee....that shouldn't be too hard either. Maybe I should come up
with a kit for you guys...any interest?
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 4:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat
I personally would not do this. First of all, the tunnel issue should have
nothing (or at lest very little) to do with the scat tube running aft. When
the vent it closed, there would be no heat in that tube, yet the tunnel temp
doesn't seem to change that much whether it is opened or closed. Second, if
you are flying where this plane is most efficient, then you the front seats
would have to be very hot before the back seats were comfortable. Unless
you have a specific exit of air in the back that would "suck" the hot air
from the front, I don't think enough of it would make it back. This may be
a common thing with most planes, but most planes that I have flown in with
heat were not comfortable for both front and back seats when heat was used.
I think you would have much more cross-flow of temp from right to left than
front to back. One easy way to handle this would be to turn the heat up to
where it is comfortable for the one who likes it hot, then the other person
can open the fresh air vent a little to cool it down. The other option
would be to put another valve in to control the flow on the pilot's side, so
the right front can get full heat and the left front can close off a little
bit of it.
This is all IMHO.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint (waiting for the container with N415EC in it to arrive in FL,
where engine and instruments will be waiting for it!)
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 6:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat
As I install my tunnel components, it occurs to me that I don't think I've
ever been in a single engine airplane that has separate controlled rear seat
heat, but every time I fly with my significant other, she's usually freezing
if I'm comfortable, or I'm too hot when she's just right. Has anyone besides
myself considered having a separate left/right front heat, and let the warm
air find itself aft, like in most other airplanes? This will solve my issue
of separate zones, as well as the rudder cable clearance issues, and the hot
tunnel syndrome. Could you folks with flying 10s let me know what your
thoughts are? Thanks
Chris Hukill
Slowly working QB fuselage
--
6/2/2006
--
6/2/2006
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | HS done! Elevators next |
Looks like it's flying pretty good. Nice job.
John J
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 8:28 AM
Subject: RV10-List: HS done! Elevators next
Here is my HS, "flying" from the garage ceiling.
I closed the rudder with the new version of the Proseal, in the self mix
caulk tube. Very easy to work with, lots of extra mixed material wasted.....
clean up is easy if you dont touch the stuff. I was able to dispense
directly to the inside surface of the right skin, then place the trailing
edge piece a few clecos from underneath, and add a layer of proseal and then
the left skin, without touching the stuff.
Steve
Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder #40499 Cessna 170B flyer
766 SE River Lane Trimming elevator ribs........
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 cell - evenings and weekends
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: HS done! Elevators next |
John
If you still need to complete your elevator trims, I have wood clamp
blocks for you.
Paul Grimstad,
RV10-40450, assembling tailcone
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: John Jessen
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 8:44 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS done! Elevators next
Looks like it's flying pretty good. Nice job.
John J
do not archive
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LIKE2LOOP@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 8:28 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: HS done! Elevators next
Here is my HS, "flying" from the garage ceiling.
I closed the rudder with the new version of the Proseal, in the
self mix caulk tube. Very easy to work with, lots of extra mixed
material wasted..... clean up is easy if you dont touch the stuff. I
was able to dispense directly to the inside surface of the right skin,
then place the trailing edge piece a few clecos from underneath, and add
a layer of proseal and then the left skin, without touching the stuff.
Steve
Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder #40499 Cessna 170B
flyer
766 SE River Lane Trimming elevator ribs........
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 cell - evenings and weekends
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Baggage door fit |
I built my baggage door a few months ago and was very happy with the way
it came out. I got around to do the final installation this weekend and
quite honestly it looked very second rate. I don't remember too much
previous discussion on the list other than the lower back corner was
'pushed in' somewhat and this can be fixed with a shim. I also had the
same problem as Tom experienced, where the door was flush at each end,
but bowed out by more than 1/8" in the top middle. I thought that the
frame rib was shaped to the curve of the fuse skin, so did not flute to
straighten. I spent about an hour last night using finger pressure to
almost eliminate the bow by massaging the door skin flush with the fuse.
The baggage door seems to be one area in particular where some shared
experiences would be useful. How many have actually come out 'spot on'
without some remedial action??
cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tom Gesele
Sent: Friday, 2 June 2006 8:32 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage door fit
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tom Gesele <tgesele@optonline.net>
I seem to recall that others had a problem with the fit of their baggage
door so figured I'd pass this along.
On the initial fit to the fuselage, discovered that the door was bowed
and
the fit was unacceptable. It appears that dimpling the frame resulted in
a
bow, causing the problem.
The solution on mine was progressively fluting the frame along the outer
edge which straightened everything to the point where the fit is now
acceptable. I'd suggest starting with small flutes, cleco everything
back to
together, check the fit, and repeat as necessary. On mine, it required
rather aggressive flutes to get the fit where I wanted but yours may be
different.
Hope this saves someone some head-scratching.
Tom Gesele #40473 (N629RV Reserved) - Fuselage
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Tricks for inserting long hinge rods |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "jdalton77" <jdalton77@comcast.net>
DO you mean the wire hole that for wiring the pin to the elevator or is
there another one?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 1:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tricks for inserting long hinge rods
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> Slightly point and round the end of the rod prior to inserting. It should
> go right in, don't forget to drill the safety wire hole.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> Finish/Fuse
>
>
>
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | QB fuselage stand |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "dmaib@mac.com" <dmaib@mac.com>
I expect delivery of my QB fuselage and wings within a couple of weeks. I have
constructed a wing cradle but need some advice on the fuselage. I believe I may
have seen a comment somewhere about constructing some short saw horses to set
the fuselage on. I assume this would put it at a comfortable height for work.
I have also looked at the rotating stands for sale by a gentleman on another
forum, but it looks like it might not work until the tailcone and the fuselage
are mated.
I would appreciate any information.
David Maib
Eagan, MN
do not archive
--------
David Maib
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=38593#38593
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: QB fuselage stand |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Dave, here's a link to some pic's of my fuse 'stand' it's constructed
from 2 wodd saw horses and 2 8' 2x4's the original idea belongs to Rick
Sked. They's been very useful. If I had it to do over I would:
1 lower them a couple of more inches (I'm 5'6" and its a bit of a reach
for some of the tasks).
2. put bigger wheels on 9these get stuck between the lines in the garage
floor.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2029%20Fuse%20Side%20Skins/slides/DSC02550.html
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
dmaib@mac.com wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "dmaib@mac.com" <dmaib@mac.com>
>
>I expect delivery of my QB fuselage and wings within a couple of weeks. I have
constructed a wing cradle but need some advice on the fuselage. I believe I may
have seen a comment somewhere about constructing some short saw horses to
set the fuselage on. I assume this would put it at a comfortable height for work.
I have also looked at the rotating stands for sale by a gentleman on another
forum, but it looks like it might not work until the tailcone and the fuselage
are mated.
>I would appreciate any information.
>
>David Maib
>Eagan, MN
>
>do not archive
>
>--------
>David Maib
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=38593#38593
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Baggage door fit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I just finished the baggage door install a week or so ago, and when
done, I had a misalignment with the top rear corner projecting outboard
about 3/8-1/2 " and the bottom rear corner tucked inside as far as the
frame would allow. I'm somewhat embarrassed to admit, but my solution
was to apply some torque in the opposite direction by grabbing the
corners by hand and 'encouraging' them back to where they needed to be.
Fortunately this turned out to work pretty well and didn't require all
that much effort. After getting the rear corners flush there was some
irregularity along the top of the baggage door, but I found that a
careful application of the hand seamer seemed to do the trick, and now
it fits like it was 'handmade' !
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> I built my baggage door a few months ago and was very happy with the
> way it came out. I got around to do the final installation this
> weekend and quite honestly it looked very second rate. I don't
> remember too much previous discussion on the list other than the lower
> back corner was 'pushed in' somewhat and this can be fixed with a
> shim. I also had the same problem as Tom experienced, where the door
> was flush at each end, but bowed out by more than 1/8" in the top
> middle. I thought that the frame rib was shaped to the curve of the
> fuse skin, so did not flute to straighten. I spent about an hour last
> night using finger pressure to almost eliminate the bow by massaging
> the door skin flush with the fuse.
>
> The baggage door seems to be one area in particular where some shared
> experiences would be useful. How many have actually come out 'spot
> on' without some remedial action??
>
> cheers,
> Ron
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tom Gesele
> Sent: Friday, 2 June 2006 8:32 AM
> To: Rv10-List
> Subject: RV10-List: Baggage door fit
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tom Gesele <tgesele@optonline.net>
>
> I seem to recall that others had a problem with the fit of their baggage
> door so figured I'd pass this along.
>
> On the initial fit to the fuselage, discovered that the door was bowed
> and
> the fit was unacceptable. It appears that dimpling the frame resulted
> in a
> bow, causing the problem.
>
> The solution on mine was progressively fluting the frame along the outer
> edge which straightened everything to the point where the fit is now
> acceptable. I'd suggest starting with small flutes, cleco everything
> back to
> together, check the fit, and repeat as necessary. On mine, it required
> rather aggressive flutes to get the fit where I wanted but yours may be
> different.
>
> Hope this saves someone some head-scratching.
>
> Tom Gesele #40473 (N629RV Reserved) - Fuselage
>
>
> browse Subscriptions page, Chat, FAQ,
> HREF="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
> Wiki!
> HREF="http://wiki.matronics.com">http://wiki.matronics.com
>
> support!
> HREF="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|