---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 06/04/06: 20 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 01:51 AM - Re: Second sub-kit recommendations> (Chris , Susie Darcy) 2. 05:10 AM - Re: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat (Wayne Edgerton) 3. 05:30 AM - Re: Second sub-kit recommendations> (James Hein) 4. 05:41 AM - Re: Second sub-kit recommendations> (Tim Olson) 5. 05:45 AM - Re: Second sub-kit recommendations> (Jesse Saint) 6. 05:53 AM - Re: Today's X/C To Black Hills (Jim & Julie Wade) 7. 05:56 AM - Re: Second sub-kit recommendations> (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 8. 06:23 AM - Re: Second sub-kit recommendations> (egohr1) 9. 06:40 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Tabs (Richard Reynolds) 10. 08:13 AM - Re: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat (Evan and Megan Johnson) 11. 08:28 AM - HS done! Elevators next (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com) 12. 08:36 AM - Re: Formation fun in the Fraser Valley (Albert Gardner) 13. 08:38 AM - Re: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat (John Jessen) 14. 08:44 AM - Re: HS done! Elevators next (John Jessen) 15. 12:05 PM - Re: HS done! Elevators next (Paul Grimstad) 16. 04:02 PM - Re: Baggage door fit (McGANN, Ron) 17. 07:32 PM - Re: Tricks for inserting long hinge rods (jdalton77) 18. 08:57 PM - QB fuselage stand (dmaib@mac.com) 19. 09:39 PM - Re: QB fuselage stand (Deems Davis) 20. 09:53 PM - Re: Baggage door fit (Deems Davis) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 01:51:41 AM PST US From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Second sub-kit recommendations> Get the wings and get the proseal out of the way!! ----- Original Message ----- From: jdalton77 To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 1:05 PM Subject: RV10-List: Second sub-kit recommendations> Greetings, I'm closing in on completing the tail kit for our -10 and am getting ready to order the next subkit? I was planning on getting the wings (all slo-build) but now am leaning towards to fuse kit. Any suggestions on which would be better? ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:10:18 AM PST US From: "Wayne Edgerton" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat Chris, I have the same problem with my wife on the hot and cold issue. We installed on her side a flipper type damper into the opening of the heat outlet, like you do on your fire place, and she will be able to close it if she gets to hot. Usually that's the case with us, she's to warm so I had to close off the heat and then I would freeze. Wayne Edgerton #40336 getting close to put on the landing gears ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:30:18 AM PST US From: James Hein Subject: Re: RV10-List: Second sub-kit recommendations> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein If you want to build the fuselage next, you willl need the center spar section that comes with the wing kit. The center spar section is match drilled to the wing spars so they ship it with the wing kit. If you really want to do the fuse next, I think you'll need to buy both the wing and fuse kit so you have the necessary center spar parts available. -Jim 40384 Flaps. (Man those wings get heavy after a while...) jdalton77 wrote: > Greetings, > > I'm closing in on completing the tail kit for our -10 and am getting > ready to order the next subkit? > > I was planning on getting the wings (all slo-build) but now am leaning > towards to fuse kit. > > Any suggestions on which would be better? ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:41:53 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Second sub-kit recommendations> From: "Tim Olson" --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Olson" They'll poll the Ctr sec. and ship it out to the islands to build the fuse around. or you Can ship it black to them. I for one am REALLY glad I had a QB fuse, but didn't mind the wings a bit. Tim do not archive > --> RV10-List message posted by: Scott Lewis > > G'day, > > As someone who is mid-way through the wings I have only one thought to > offer; the spar centre section, which the fuse is built around, comes > with the wing kit. > > Seeya, > Scott Lewis > RV-10 40172 > Adelaide, South Australia > > do not archive > > jdalton77 wrote: >> Greetings, >> >> I'm closing in on completing the tail kit for our -10 and am getting >> ready to order the next subkit? >> >> I was planning on getting the wings (all slo-build) but now am leaning >> towards to fuse kit. >> >> Any suggestions on which would be better? > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:45:29 AM PST US From: "Jesse Saint" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Second sub-kit recommendations> If you want to build the fuse first, then you will have to buy the wings anyway. One of the first (if not the first) on the fuse is the wing spar center sections. Without the wing kit, the fuse will just take up space in your garage. Even if you buy both kits, I would recommend building the wings first. Do not archive. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jdalton77 Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 11:06 PM Subject: RV10-List: Second sub-kit recommendations> Greetings, I'm closing in on completing the tail kit for our -10 and am getting ready to order the next subkit? I was planning on getting the wings (all slo-build) but now am leaning towards to fuse kit. Any suggestions on which would be better? -- -- ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 05:53:59 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Today's X/C To Black Hills From: "Jim & Julie Wade" --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim & Julie Wade" Hi Tim If you are not running Gami injectors, you might want to get thier test sheet on comparing injectors inflight. I think you can download it from their web site. YOu start leaning slowly and check the temps on all six cylinders as you lean. You end up with a good idea on how each injector is doing. Not everyone need Gami's, but most do, inorder to get the temp spread close enough. I have run Gami's in my 210 for a long time. When you run lean of peak, you can up the power setting to compensate for the HP loss at lean of peak. You won't lose as much speed, and the engine likes it!!!! I plan to check mine as soon as I get it good and broken in and will put in Gami's if needed. With fuel costs, you can pay for a set of Gami's in no time. Blue Skies Jim 40383 Through building!!! Just paint and assembly now. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=38462#38462 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 05:56:40 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Second sub-kit recommendations> From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" That is probably the main reason to go with the wings. You won't get too far into the fuselage kit before you need those spars. Also the manual changes drastically by the fuse kit, they are no longer "holding your hand" and you will be doing a lot of head scratching without the experience from the wing kit. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Fuselage Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Lewis Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 10:57 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Second sub-kit recommendations> --> RV10-List message posted by: Scott Lewis G'day, As someone who is mid-way through the wings I have only one thought to offer; the spar centre section, which the fuse is built around, comes with the wing kit. Seeya, Scott Lewis RV-10 40172 Adelaide, South Australia do not archive jdalton77 wrote: > Greetings, > > I'm closing in on completing the tail kit for our -10 and am getting > ready to order the next subkit? > > I was planning on getting the wings (all slo-build) but now am leaning > towards to fuse kit. > > Any suggestions on which would be better? ========================= ========== ========================= ========== ========================= ========== ========================= ========== ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 06:23:53 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Second sub-kit recommendations> From: "egohr1" --> RV10-List message posted by: "egohr1" Just my $.02. I am just about to finish the ailerons. My skills have gotten much better building the wings, and a would not want to have a finished fuse sitting waiting for wings. Also am building both wings at once, this has cut the time due to economy of scale on setups. -------- eric gohr EGOHR86@alumni.carnegiemellon.edu Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=38466#38466 ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 06:40:51 AM PST US From: Richard Reynolds Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Tabs I made a "portable" fuel tank tab for my RV-6A. Using my FuelHawk gage it was easy to bend the tab to the new fuel capacity. Don't for get to add the string! Richard Reynolds Norfolk, VA RV-6A ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 08:13:08 AM PST US From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat Why don't you just put a door over the opening by your feet....a thin slider would work. If you are hot and she is cold she can open her side while you keep yours closed. Or even better would be to put a butterfly valve in each side of the Tee....that shouldn't be too hard either. Maybe I should come up with a kit for you guys...any interest? Evan Johnson www.evansaviationproducts.com (530)247-0375 (530)351-1776 cell ----- Original Message ----- From: Jesse Saint To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 4:57 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat I personally would not do this. First of all, the tunnel issue should have nothing (or at lest very little) to do with the scat tube running aft. When the vent it closed, there would be no heat in that tube, yet the tunnel temp doesn=92t seem to change that much whether it is opened or closed. Second, if you are flying where this plane is most efficient, then you the front seats would have to be very hot before the back seats were comfortable. Unless you have a specific exit of air in the back that would =93suck=94 the hot air from the front, I don=92t think enough of it would make it back. This may be a common thing with most planes, but most planes that I have flown in with heat were not comfortable for both front and back seats when heat was used. I think you would have much more cross-flow of temp from right to left than front to back. One easy way to handle this would be to turn the heat up to where it is comfortable for the one who likes it hot, then the other person can open the fresh air vent a little to cool it down. The other option would be to put another valve in to control the flow on the pilot=92s side, so the right front can get full heat and the left front can close off a little bit of it. This is all IMHO. Do not archive. Jesse Saint (waiting for the container with N415EC in it to arrive in FL, where engine and instruments will be waiting for it!) I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 6:37 PM To: rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat As I install my tunnel components, it occurs to me that I don't think I've ever been in a single engine airplane that has separate controlled rear seat heat, but every time I fly with my significant other, she's usually freezing if I'm comfortable, or I'm too hot when she's just right. Has anyone besides myself considered having a separate left/right front heat, and let the warm air find itself aft, like in most other airplanes? This will solve my issue of separate zones, as well as the rudder cable clearance issues, and the hot tunnel syndrome. Could you folks with flying 10s let me know what your thoughts are? Thanks Chris Hukill Slowly working QB fuselage -- 6/2/2006 -- 6/2/2006 ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 08:28:45 AM PST US From: LIKE2LOOP@aol.com Subject: RV10-List: HS done! Elevators next Here is my HS, "flying" from the garage ceiling. I closed the rudder with the new version of the Proseal, in the self mix caulk tube. Very easy to work with, lots of extra mixed material wasted..... clean up is easy if you dont touch the stuff. I was able to dispense directly to the inside surface of the right skin, then place the trailing edge piece a few clecos from underneath, and add a layer of proseal and then the left skin, without touching the stuff. Steve Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder #40499 Cessna 170B flyer 766 SE River Lane Trimming elevator ribs........ Port St. Lucie, FL 34983 772-475-5556 cell - evenings and weekends ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 08:36:37 AM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Formation fun in the Fraser Valley We've always had the ability to enclose pics on the RV-10 list but please consider the problems associated with the increase in message size when you enclose pics. I reposted the formation pic (very impressive) after using the powertoy suggested by Matt and with one click it reduced the formation pic from 200K to 50K. I think it would be a good idea for us to reduce pic size whenever possible. Albert Gardner 40422 Yuma, AZ http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx -----Original Message----- On Behalf Of Rob Prior (rv7) Subject: RV-List: Formation fun in the Fraser Valley Since we now have this fancy attachment system, it seems a waste not to at least try it. This was taken yesterday while flying between Langley, BC and Chilliwack, BC. -Rob ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 08:38:21 AM PST US From: "John Jessen" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat yep, but something easily controlled by the individual who needs the change, especially the right seat. let the left seat stay flying, not fiddling. John J do not archive _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Evan and Megan Johnson Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 8:10 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat Why don't you just put a door over the opening by your feet....a thin slider would work. If you are hot and she is cold she can open her side while you keep yours closed. Or even better would be to put a butterfly valve in each side of the Tee....that shouldn't be too hard either. Maybe I should come up with a kit for you guys...any interest? Evan Johnson www.evansaviationproducts.com (530)247-0375 (530)351-1776 cell ----- Original Message ----- From: Jesse Saint Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 4:57 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat I personally would not do this. First of all, the tunnel issue should have nothing (or at lest very little) to do with the scat tube running aft. When the vent it closed, there would be no heat in that tube, yet the tunnel temp doesn't seem to change that much whether it is opened or closed. Second, if you are flying where this plane is most efficient, then you the front seats would have to be very hot before the back seats were comfortable. Unless you have a specific exit of air in the back that would "suck" the hot air from the front, I don't think enough of it would make it back. This may be a common thing with most planes, but most planes that I have flown in with heat were not comfortable for both front and back seats when heat was used. I think you would have much more cross-flow of temp from right to left than front to back. One easy way to handle this would be to turn the heat up to where it is comfortable for the one who likes it hot, then the other person can open the fresh air vent a little to cool it down. The other option would be to put another valve in to control the flow on the pilot's side, so the right front can get full heat and the left front can close off a little bit of it. This is all IMHO. Do not archive. Jesse Saint (waiting for the container with N415EC in it to arrive in FL, where engine and instruments will be waiting for it!) I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 6:37 PM Subject: RV10-List: Rear seat vs dual zone front heat As I install my tunnel components, it occurs to me that I don't think I've ever been in a single engine airplane that has separate controlled rear seat heat, but every time I fly with my significant other, she's usually freezing if I'm comfortable, or I'm too hot when she's just right. Has anyone besides myself considered having a separate left/right front heat, and let the warm air find itself aft, like in most other airplanes? This will solve my issue of separate zones, as well as the rudder cable clearance issues, and the hot tunnel syndrome. Could you folks with flying 10s let me know what your thoughts are? Thanks Chris Hukill Slowly working QB fuselage -- 6/2/2006 -- 6/2/2006 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 08:44:53 AM PST US From: "John Jessen" Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS done! Elevators next Looks like it's flying pretty good. Nice job. John J do not archive _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LIKE2LOOP@aol.com Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 8:28 AM Subject: RV10-List: HS done! Elevators next Here is my HS, "flying" from the garage ceiling. I closed the rudder with the new version of the Proseal, in the self mix caulk tube. Very easy to work with, lots of extra mixed material wasted..... clean up is easy if you dont touch the stuff. I was able to dispense directly to the inside surface of the right skin, then place the trailing edge piece a few clecos from underneath, and add a layer of proseal and then the left skin, without touching the stuff. Steve Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder #40499 Cessna 170B flyer 766 SE River Lane Trimming elevator ribs........ Port St. Lucie, FL 34983 772-475-5556 cell - evenings and weekends ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 12:05:05 PM PST US From: "Paul Grimstad" Subject: Re: RV10-List: HS done! Elevators next John If you still need to complete your elevator trims, I have wood clamp blocks for you. Paul Grimstad, RV10-40450, assembling tailcone do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: John Jessen To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 8:44 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS done! Elevators next Looks like it's flying pretty good. Nice job. John J do not archive ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LIKE2LOOP@aol.com Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 8:28 AM To: rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: HS done! Elevators next Here is my HS, "flying" from the garage ceiling. I closed the rudder with the new version of the Proseal, in the self mix caulk tube. Very easy to work with, lots of extra mixed material wasted..... clean up is easy if you dont touch the stuff. I was able to dispense directly to the inside surface of the right skin, then place the trailing edge piece a few clecos from underneath, and add a layer of proseal and then the left skin, without touching the stuff. Steve Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder #40499 Cessna 170B flyer 766 SE River Lane Trimming elevator ribs........ Port St. Lucie, FL 34983 772-475-5556 cell - evenings and weekends ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 04:02:39 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage door fit From: "McGANN, Ron" I built my baggage door a few months ago and was very happy with the way it came out. I got around to do the final installation this weekend and quite honestly it looked very second rate. I don't remember too much previous discussion on the list other than the lower back corner was 'pushed in' somewhat and this can be fixed with a shim. I also had the same problem as Tom experienced, where the door was flush at each end, but bowed out by more than 1/8" in the top middle. I thought that the frame rib was shaped to the curve of the fuse skin, so did not flute to straighten. I spent about an hour last night using finger pressure to almost eliminate the bow by massaging the door skin flush with the fuse. The baggage door seems to be one area in particular where some shared experiences would be useful. How many have actually come out 'spot on' without some remedial action?? cheers, Ron -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tom Gesele Sent: Friday, 2 June 2006 8:32 AM Subject: RV10-List: Baggage door fit --> RV10-List message posted by: Tom Gesele I seem to recall that others had a problem with the fit of their baggage door so figured I'd pass this along. On the initial fit to the fuselage, discovered that the door was bowed and the fit was unacceptable. It appears that dimpling the frame resulted in a bow, causing the problem. The solution on mine was progressively fluting the frame along the outer edge which straightened everything to the point where the fit is now acceptable. I'd suggest starting with small flutes, cleco everything back to together, check the fit, and repeat as necessary. On mine, it required rather aggressive flutes to get the fit where I wanted but yours may be different. Hope this saves someone some head-scratching. Tom Gesele #40473 (N629RV Reserved) - Fuselage ========================= ========== ========================= ========== ========================= ========== ========================= ========== ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 07:32:20 PM PST US From: "jdalton77" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tricks for inserting long hinge rods --> RV10-List message posted by: "jdalton77" DO you mean the wire hole that for wiring the pin to the elevator or is there another one? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick" Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 1:23 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tricks for inserting long hinge rods > --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick > > Slightly point and round the end of the rod prior to inserting. It should > go right in, don't forget to drill the safety wire hole. > > Rick S. > 40185 > Finish/Fuse > > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 08:57:23 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: QB fuselage stand From: "dmaib@mac.com" --> RV10-List message posted by: "dmaib@mac.com" I expect delivery of my QB fuselage and wings within a couple of weeks. I have constructed a wing cradle but need some advice on the fuselage. I believe I may have seen a comment somewhere about constructing some short saw horses to set the fuselage on. I assume this would put it at a comfortable height for work. I have also looked at the rotating stands for sale by a gentleman on another forum, but it looks like it might not work until the tailcone and the fuselage are mated. I would appreciate any information. David Maib Eagan, MN do not archive -------- David Maib Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=38593#38593 ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 09:39:22 PM PST US From: Deems Davis Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB fuselage stand --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis Dave, here's a link to some pic's of my fuse 'stand' it's constructed from 2 wodd saw horses and 2 8' 2x4's the original idea belongs to Rick Sked. They's been very useful. If I had it to do over I would: 1 lower them a couple of more inches (I'm 5'6" and its a bit of a reach for some of the tasks). 2. put bigger wheels on 9these get stuck between the lines in the garage floor. http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2029%20Fuse%20Side%20Skins/slides/DSC02550.html Deems Davis # 406 Fuse http://deemsrv10.com/ dmaib@mac.com wrote: >--> RV10-List message posted by: "dmaib@mac.com" > >I expect delivery of my QB fuselage and wings within a couple of weeks. I have constructed a wing cradle but need some advice on the fuselage. I believe I may have seen a comment somewhere about constructing some short saw horses to set the fuselage on. I assume this would put it at a comfortable height for work. I have also looked at the rotating stands for sale by a gentleman on another forum, but it looks like it might not work until the tailcone and the fuselage are mated. >I would appreciate any information. > >David Maib >Eagan, MN > >do not archive > >-------- >David Maib > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=38593#38593 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 09:53:43 PM PST US From: Deems Davis Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage door fit --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis I just finished the baggage door install a week or so ago, and when done, I had a misalignment with the top rear corner projecting outboard about 3/8-1/2 " and the bottom rear corner tucked inside as far as the frame would allow. I'm somewhat embarrassed to admit, but my solution was to apply some torque in the opposite direction by grabbing the corners by hand and 'encouraging' them back to where they needed to be. Fortunately this turned out to work pretty well and didn't require all that much effort. After getting the rear corners flush there was some irregularity along the top of the baggage door, but I found that a careful application of the hand seamer seemed to do the trick, and now it fits like it was 'handmade' ! Deems Davis # 406 Fuse http://deemsrv10.com/ McGANN, Ron wrote: > I built my baggage door a few months ago and was very happy with the > way it came out. I got around to do the final installation this > weekend and quite honestly it looked very second rate. I don't > remember too much previous discussion on the list other than the lower > back corner was 'pushed in' somewhat and this can be fixed with a > shim. I also had the same problem as Tom experienced, where the door > was flush at each end, but bowed out by more than 1/8" in the top > middle. I thought that the frame rib was shaped to the curve of the > fuse skin, so did not flute to straighten. I spent about an hour last > night using finger pressure to almost eliminate the bow by massaging > the door skin flush with the fuse. > > The baggage door seems to be one area in particular where some shared > experiences would be useful. How many have actually come out 'spot > on' without some remedial action?? > > cheers, > Ron > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tom Gesele > Sent: Friday, 2 June 2006 8:32 AM > To: Rv10-List > Subject: RV10-List: Baggage door fit > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tom Gesele > > I seem to recall that others had a problem with the fit of their baggage > door so figured I'd pass this along. > > On the initial fit to the fuselage, discovered that the door was bowed > and > the fit was unacceptable. It appears that dimpling the frame resulted > in a > bow, causing the problem. > > The solution on mine was progressively fluting the frame along the outer > edge which straightened everything to the point where the fit is now > acceptable. I'd suggest starting with small flutes, cleco everything > back to > together, check the fit, and repeat as necessary. On mine, it required > rather aggressive flutes to get the fit where I wanted but yours may be > different. > > Hope this saves someone some head-scratching. > > Tom Gesele #40473 (N629RV Reserved) - Fuselage > > > browse Subscriptions page, Chat, FAQ, > HREF="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > > Wiki! > HREF="http://wiki.matronics.com">http://wiki.matronics.com > > support! > HREF="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > > > > >