Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:35 AM - Re: New Andair Fuel valve (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
2. 03:55 AM - Re: Mounting fuse blocks (Jesse Saint)
3. 03:59 AM - Re: how long til you know your fuel tanks are good? (Jesse Saint)
4. 04:02 AM - Re: New Andair Fuel valve (Jesse Saint)
5. 04:14 AM - Re: New Andair Fuel valve (Tim Olson)
6. 05:03 AM - Re: Mounting fuse blocks (Richard Reynolds)
7. 06:12 AM - Re: Mounting fuse blocks (Jesse Saint)
8. 06:12 AM - Re: how long til you know your fuel tanks are good? (Tim Olson)
9. 06:18 AM - 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps (Michael Wellenzohn)
10. 06:18 AM - Re: Mounting fuse blocks (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
11. 06:23 AM - Re: how long til you know your fuel tanks are good? (Rick)
12. 06:30 AM - Re: HS done! Elevators next (Wellenzohn)
13. 06:42 AM - Re: 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps (Rick)
14. 06:47 AM - Re: how long til you know your fuel tanks are good? (Jesse Saint)
15. 06:51 AM - Re: Mounting fuse blocks (Rick)
16. 06:51 AM - Re: 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
17. 06:54 AM - Re: Mounting fuse blocks (Brinker)
18. 08:15 AM - Re: 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
19. 09:40 AM - Re: Mounting fuse blocks (Dan Masys)
20. 09:45 AM - Re: Re: Mounting fuse blocks (Dan Masys)
21. 09:54 AM - Re: Mounting fuse blocks (Dan Masys)
22. 10:02 AM - Re: Mounting fuse blocks (linn Walters)
23. 02:50 PM - Re: blown fuses (Dan Masys)
24. 03:32 PM - Andair Parts / Neal George Moved (Tim Olson)
25. 05:15 PM - Transponder Antenna Placement (John Hasbrouck)
26. 05:47 PM - Re: Andair Parts / Neal George Moved (Albert Gardner)
27. 06:38 PM - Re: Transponder Antenna Placement (Rob Kermanj)
28. 06:52 PM - Re: Transponder Antenna Placement (Tim Olson)
29. 07:17 PM - Re: Transponder Antenna Placement (David McNeill)
30. 07:46 PM - Re: Transponder Antenna Placement (Tim Olson)
31. 07:53 PM - Re: Transponder Antenna Placement (Mark Chamberlain)
32. 08:00 PM - rear seat heat (Chris Hukill)
33. 10:49 PM - Yellowstone Trip & Performance update (Tim Olson)
34. 10:49 PM - Pinpoint AHRS Update (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | New Andair Fuel valve |
I have a feeling these are primarily aimed at the pusher crowd. I know
when I was looking at building a Cozy or Velocity I really wished for a
product like this to keep the fuel out of the cockpit. Would also be
useful in an aircraft with a aft header tank.
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage
Do Not Archive
Recent RV-10 Build Activity
<http://www.mykitlog.com/display_project.php?project_id=22>
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert
Gardner
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 12:14 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: New Andair Fuel valve
I saw that ad also but I don't understand how fuel can get from the
wing to the engine without going through the cabin. The fuel pump and
filter as well as the floscan transducer are all in the tunnel. I
imagined that the lines from the new Andair valve would come in from the
wings to a T-fitting and then go to the fuel pump. There would still be
fuel going through the cabin just no selector valve..
Albert Gardner
40-422
Yuma, AZ
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RV10-List: New Andair Fuel valve
Saw in my new Kitplanes that Andair will be offering a new remote fuel
selector. The selector looks like all the others but the actual valve
can be put anywhere since its fly by wire (solenoid of some sort I
presume). So fuel lines in the cabin may be avoided. Cool.
-CHris
#40072 fuselage slobuild
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting fuse blocks |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Very nice.
Jesse
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
>
> If you happen to be using the Aeroelectric approach of using fuse blocks
> instead of (or along with) breakers, one way of mounting the fuse holders
> so they are out of the way but accessible when needed is to put them on a
> hinged panel between the panel and subpanel. Just got mine cut and
> installed. These pics show the essential buss block (20 fuse positions),
> main block (10 position) and battery block (6 position), separated by the
> diode mounted to a heat sink from B&C specialties:
> do not archive
> Seen from above:
> http://132.239.155.44/rv10/2006-06-05_fuseblockmount.jpg
>
> and below, where a Dzus cowl fastener keeps the plate in place
> http://132.239.155.44/rv10/2006-06-05_fuseblockmount_b.jpg
>
> One half twist of the cowl fastener the the plate drops down vertically
> for access to the fuses.
>
> -Dan Masys
> #40448
>
>
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: how long til you know your fuel tanks are good? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
That's the $64,000 question. I think the Van's test kit says something
like a couple of hours. If you truly have no leaks, then the balloon will
stay inflated for days, with variations in the size of the inflation based
on changes in air temp, but it will stay inflated. It really is a good
feeling looking over the next morning, and the next morning, seeing that
balloon still inflated.
do not archive.
Jesse Saint
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>
>
> Hey all -
>
> Here's a dumb question... after finishing up the fuel tanks (and most
> of the rest of everything on the wings) I moved on to the fuselage. It
> was under the pretext of waiting for proseal to dry. I think the real
> deal is that I was putting off testing the tanks because I was
> nervous... Anyway, I put the balloon on there, filled it with air, and
> guess what? The balloon is still inflated in the morning!! Yay.
> Now the question -
>
> How long do I wait til I call it good and test the other one?
>
> cj
> #40410
> testing tanks/fuse
> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>
>
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: New Andair Fuel valve |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Out of curiosity, how would you get from the tanks to the engine without
going through the cabin? The only thing that would bother me about that
is losing electrical power, and with it the ability to change tanks.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
> Saw in my new Kitplanes that Andair will be offering a new remote fuel
> selector. The selector looks like all the others but the actual valve can
> be put anywhere since its fly by wire (solenoid of some sort I presume).
> So fuel lines in the cabin may be avoided. Cool.
> -CHris
> #40072 fuselage slobuild
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: New Andair Fuel valve |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
With our low-wing -10's, we wouldn't want just a T fitting, you'd
want to draw from each tank separately. I for one am glad to just
have a plain valve. I'd hate to have a fly-by-wire on something
as critical as a fuel valve. At least now I can positively feel
that the switch was made properly. Sure, it would probably work
fine, but now you've got to have electrical working, and there's
just one more thing to fail. I don't know how you'd avoid fuel
in the cockpit in the -10. There's no way from the wings to the
nose without going through somewhere.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Albert Gardner wrote:
> I saw that ad also but I dont understand how fuel can get from the
> wing to the engine without going through the cabin. The fuel pump and
> filter as well as the floscan transducer are all in the tunnel. I
> imagined that the lines from the new Andair valve would come in from the
> wings to a T-fitting and then go to the fuel pump. There would still be
> fuel going through the cabin just no selector valve..
>
> Albert Gardner
>
> 40-422
>
> Yuma, AZ
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> * Subject:* RV10-List: New Andair Fuel valve
>
> Saw in my new Kitplanes that Andair will be offering a new remote fuel
> selector. The selector looks like all the others but the actual valve
> can be put anywhere since its fly by wire (solenoid of some sort I
> presume). So fuel lines in the cabin may be avoided. Cool.
>
> -CHris
>
> #40072 fuselage slobuild
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting fuse blocks |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds@macs.net>
Have you checked access with the brakes installed?
Richard Reynolds
Norfolk, VA
Message 7
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| Subject: | Mounting fuse blocks |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
That looks like it is from the bulkhead to the panel support, so it should
be aft of the brakes. The only problem in-flight would be getting your legs
out of the way so you could flip it down, but in most cases where you are
blowing a fuse, putting another one in is probably not going to fix the
problem. The blown fuse is just evidence that there is a problem that needs
to be fixed.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Reynolds
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 8:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks
--> RV10-List message posted by: Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds@macs.net>
Have you checked access with the brakes installed?
Richard Reynolds
Norfolk, VA
--
--
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: how long til you know your fuel tanks are good? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I posted long ago on this. The short answer is wait at least
a week. Sure, maybe the fast proseal will be fine before then.
I made the mistake of testing mine after 24 hours or maybe
it was 48. When I pressure tested it, I blew the proseal
right out of a couple of those relief slots. Had to re-inject
proseal in those areas and pray. It isn't that big of a deal
to wait a week. You'll still feel good then.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> That's the $64,000 question. I think the Van's test kit says something
> like a couple of hours. If you truly have no leaks, then the balloon will
> stay inflated for days, with variations in the size of the inflation based
> on changes in air temp, but it will stay inflated. It really is a good
> feeling looking over the next morning, and the next morning, seeing that
> balloon still inflated.
>
> do not archive.
>
> Jesse Saint
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston@popsound.com>
>>
>>
>> Hey all -
>>
>> Here's a dumb question... after finishing up the fuel tanks (and most
>> of the rest of everything on the wings) I moved on to the fuselage. It
>> was under the pretext of waiting for proseal to dry. I think the real
>> deal is that I was putting off testing the tanks because I was
>> nervous... Anyway, I put the balloon on there, filled it with air, and
>> guess what? The balloon is still inflated in the morning!! Yay.
>> Now the question -
>>
>> How long do I wait til I call it good and test the other one?
>>
>> cj
>> #40410
>> testing tanks/fuse
>> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael@wellenzohn.net>
Hello, I just finished the rudder and thanks to all contributers to this
list because my trailing edge came out real nice.
I added a picture series of the rudder construction on my site
www.wellenzohn.net
Here are two questions:
1) How can I remove ProSeal spots from the skin (an easy way pls)
2) The HS construction requires 3/32 match drilling (HS Spar & Spar caps)
these drills didn't come with the Tool Kit I bought and I can't find them
on the tools webstores. Since I reside in Switzerland I wonder if match
drilling with a #40 would also do it. Any suggestions?
Michael Wellenzohn
#40511 (HS)
Zrich,Switzerland
michael@wellenzohn.net
www.wellenzohn.net
Message 10
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| Subject: | Mounting fuse blocks |
I did the same thing but installed mine on the pilot side
because I had my heater controls on the right side and they go through
the lower switch panel and then under the sub-panel. You may have to
think about where you are planning to install all you push/pull cables
for stuff like Alternate Air, Parking Brake and Front and Rear Heat.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV (28 hours on it now)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2006 7:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks
Dan
Precisely what I was about to do (including fuse block selection) -
thanks for the pics. But man, that is one BIG heatsink :-)
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Sent: Tuesday, 6 June 2006 9:28 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
If you happen to be using the Aeroelectric approach of using fuse blocks
instead of (or along with) breakers, one way of mounting the fuse
holders so they are out of the way but accessible when needed is to put
them on a hinged panel between the panel and subpanel. Just got mine
cut and installed. These pics show the essential buss block (20 fuse
positions), main block (10 position) and battery block (6 position),
separated by the diode mounted to a heat sink from B&C specialties:
Seen from above:
http://132.239.155.44/rv10/2006-06-05_fuseblockmount.jpg
and below, where a Dzus cowl fastener keeps the plate in place
http://132.239.155.44/rv10/2006-06-05_fuseblockmount_b.jpg
One half twist of the cowl fastener the the plate drops down vertically
for access to the fuses.
-Dan Masys
#40448
=========================
===========
=========================
===========
=========================
===========
=========================
===========
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: how long til you know your fuel tanks are good? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Make that a Manometer...jeez, wonder where my mind was.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse/Finish
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: HS done! Elevators next |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Wellenzohn" <michael@wellenzohn.net>
Good job, any heads up for me regarding the HS, because I just started it now.
Best Regards
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=38930#38930
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
I have found that you have to let proseal just wear off....when it's still uncured
you can use MEK but it is harsh on the skin.
You should be fine using the #40 drill bit or it may be easier to find a 2.35 mm
bit in Europe. Either should work fine. The difference in size between a #40
and a 3/32 would be measurable if you were doing precise drilling on a lathe,
mill or drill press but using a hand drill in soft aluminum, the error (wobble)
factor is greater than the size difference.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse/Finish
Message 14
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| Subject: | how long til you know your fuel tanks are good? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Of course, I meant to leave the balloon on that long, not to do it that soon
after finishing it. The longer you let it wait before testing the more
cured it will be. We always wait at least a day before testing.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 9:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: how long til you know your fuel tanks are good?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I posted long ago on this. The short answer is wait at least
a week. Sure, maybe the fast proseal will be fine before then.
I made the mistake of testing mine after 24 hours or maybe
it was 48. When I pressure tested it, I blew the proseal
right out of a couple of those relief slots. Had to re-inject
proseal in those areas and pray. It isn't that big of a deal
to wait a week. You'll still feel good then.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> That's the $64,000 question. I think the Van's test kit says something
> like a couple of hours. If you truly have no leaks, then the balloon will
> stay inflated for days, with variations in the size of the inflation based
> on changes in air temp, but it will stay inflated. It really is a good
> feeling looking over the next morning, and the next morning, seeing that
> balloon still inflated.
>
> do not archive.
>
> Jesse Saint
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston"
<CJohnston@popsound.com>
>>
>>
>> Hey all -
>>
>> Here's a dumb question... after finishing up the fuel tanks (and most
>> of the rest of everything on the wings) I moved on to the fuselage. It
>> was under the pretext of waiting for proseal to dry. I think the real
>> deal is that I was putting off testing the tanks because I was
>> nervous... Anyway, I put the balloon on there, filled it with air, and
>> guess what? The balloon is still inflated in the morning!! Yay.
>> Now the question -
>>
>> How long do I wait til I call it good and test the other one?
>>
>> cj
>> #40410
>> testing tanks/fuse
>> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
--
Message 15
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| Subject: | Mounting fuse blocks |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
I'm using the one with the heatsink, I have not powered it up but are you saying
the voltage drop has been resolved by using the heatsink or is is specific to
the unprotected diode?
Rick S.
40185
Message 16
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| Subject: | 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps |
Proseal can be cleaned off with MEK relatively easily. I don't
remember the need for a 3/32 drill bit but that would be an "A" size
bit. Probably easier to find it as that than 3/32.
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 8:18 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Michael Wellenzohn"
--> <michael@wellenzohn.net>
Hello, I just finished the rudder and thanks to all contributers to this
list because my trailing edge came out real nice.
I added a picture series of the rudder construction on my site
www.wellenzohn.net
Here are two questions:
1) How can I remove ProSeal spots from the skin (an easy way pls)
2) The HS construction requires 3/32 match drilling (HS Spar & Spar
caps) these drills didn't come with the Tool Kit I bought and I can't
find them on the tools webstores. Since I reside in Switzerland I wonder
if match drilling with a #40 would also do it. Any suggestions?
Michael Wellenzohn
#40511 (HS)
Z=FCrich,Switzerland
michael@wellenzohn.net
www.wellenzohn.net
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting fuse blocks |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brinker" <brinker@cox-internet.com>
I was considering something similar but after reading some on the
Aeroelectric list and from my experience with automobile fuses is just as
you have said. Most of the time no need to replace a blown fuse until the
problem itself is fixed. Although would be nice to have access to them
during flight. Oh decisions decisions.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 8:11 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> That looks like it is from the bulkhead to the panel support, so it should
> be aft of the brakes. The only problem in-flight would be getting your
> legs
> out of the way so you could flip it down, but in most cases where you are
> blowing a fuse, putting another one in is probably not going to fix the
> problem. The blown fuse is just evidence that there is a problem that
> needs
> to be fixed.
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard
> Reynolds
> Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 8:01 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds@macs.net>
>
> Have you checked access with the brakes installed?
>
> Richard Reynolds
> Norfolk, VA
>
>
> --
>
>
> --
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
I have found that Coleman Lantern fuel will clean the proseal spots off,
and it evaps very quickly, with no residue. But use it in a well
ventilated area, it will cause a bad headache! Also it is not as harsh
on your hands or lungs as MEK, and cleans as well. This is what I used
on the tanks of the 7, and it is readily available at discount stores
and outdoor stores.
Dan
RV10E (N289DT)
Fuselage
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 9:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
I have found that you have to let proseal just wear off....when it's
still uncured you can use MEK but it is harsh on the skin.
You should be fine using the #40 drill bit or it may be easier to find a
2.35 mm bit in Europe. Either should work fine. The difference in size
between a #40 and a 3/32 would be measurable if you were doing precise
drilling on a lathe, mill or drill press but using a hand drill in soft
aluminum, the error (wobble) factor is greater than the size difference.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse/Finish
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting fuse blocks |
Cc: Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds@macs.net>
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
Yes, it is fine with respect to the brakes. Lots more room in the -10 than in
the two place forward fuselage. Originally got the idea from Andy Karmy whose
installation in his -9A is shown here:
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/fuselage/electrical/img_0022.htm
-Dan Masys
---- Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds@macs.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds@macs.net>
>
> Have you checked access with the brakes installed?
>
> Richard Reynolds
> Norfolk, VA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting fuse blocks |
Cc: KiloPapa <kilopapa@antelecom.net>
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
B & C specialty products has all of the stuff one needs to wire up a plane by the
Aeroelectric ('lectric Bob) approach:
Fuse blocks are at:
http://www.bandcspecialty.com/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?7X358218
TerminalTown also has them at:
http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page204.html
Hope this helps,
-Dan Masys
---- KiloPapa <kilopapa@antelecom.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "KiloPapa" <kilopapa@antelecom.net>
>
> Looks nice. Where did you get the fuse blocks?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kevin
> 40494
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=38870#38870
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 21
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| Subject: | Mounting fuse blocks |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
In my -7A the heat-sinked diode has a constant voltage drop (about 0.8 volts) between
main buss and e-buss. The old diode, mounted to the plate with the fuseblocks
but not separately heat-sinked, would start with a 0.8 volt drop, but
as load was added to the e-bus (in particular the TruTrak autopilot, whose load
varies with the amount of turbulence due to stepping motor activity and can
be up to 7.5a) the voltage drop would go as high as 2.5 volts as it heated up,
causing low voltage alarms from the Grand Rapids EIS, which was powered from
the e-Bus. Would also occasionally cause the transponder to hiccup. Not a good
scene.
-Dan
---- Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net> wrote:
> I'm using the one with the heatsink, I have not powered it up but are you saying
the voltage drop has been resolved by using the heatsink or is is specific
to the unprotected diode?
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting fuse blocks |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Jesse Saint wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
>That looks like it is from the bulkhead to the panel support, so it should
>be aft of the brakes. The only problem in-flight would be getting your legs
>out of the way so you could flip it down, but in most cases where you are
>blowing a fuse, putting another one in is probably not going to fix the
>problem. The blown fuse is just evidence that there is a problem that needs
>to be fixed.
>
And while you're preoccupied with the fuses, you aren't flying the
plane, checking for traffec etc.!!! Best to wait 'till you're back on
solid ground. IMHO, of course :-)
Linn
>
>Do not archive.
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse@itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>W: 352-465-4545
>C: 352-427-0285
>
Message 23
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Cc: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
---- linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
The only problem in-flight would be getting your legs
> >out of the way so you could flip it down, but in most cases where you are
> >blowing a fuse, putting another one in is probably not going to fix the
> >problem. The blown fuse is just evidence that there is a problem that needs
to be fixed.
> >
> And while you're preoccupied with the fuses, you aren't flying the
> plane, checking for traffec etc.!!! Best to wait 'till you're back on
> solid ground. IMHO, of course :-)
> Linn
This is very much the spirit of the Aeroelectric approach: make critical systems
redundant so that if one fails (e.g., a fuse blows) you don't have to try to
fix it while flying. Just note it and switch to the alternative approach to
getting the same job done.
The only fuse I have blown in the -7A was the pitot heat, which was sized for the
continuous current load but not for the current spike that accompanies the
startup of the pitot (approximately 1.6 x the steady state amperage). Switched
from a 15A to 20A fuse and lived happily ever after :-).
-Dan Masys
Message 24
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| Subject: | Andair Parts / Neal George Moved |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I just spoke with Neal George today. He sells Andair valves and
parts. He just got moved by the military to Florida and is
in process getting all hooked up to phone and internet there.
If anyone is looking to get a hold of him, his number for
now is 334-546-2033. He said he just got in some Andair
parts and wanted to make sure that the people who were looking
for them to come in could find him.
Just passing on the info..
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 25
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| Subject: | Transponder Antenna Placement |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
I'm thinking that a good place for the x-ponder ant. is just behind the
firewall, under the forward part of the tunnel just below the heat duct "T".
What I don't know is what the cowl is like in this area and how far forward
I can place the blade antenna without interference. I read Tim's site and
he indicated his is near the fuel pump which would be a little farther aft.
That sounds like a more crowded area but probably easier to get to if the
need arose. Also, how bad, if at all, would interference with the signal be
from the nose gear? I'm about to rivet the forward bottom skin and want to
double the area and place the nutplates while it's easy. Any suggestions?
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 26
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| Subject: | Andair Parts / Neal George Moved |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@adelphia.net>
I had an extension on order but installed my Andair valve without it so Neal
has the extension that was on order for me. If anyone needs one Neal has at
least one on the shelf. Call him-he said he won't have email for at least a
week.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I just spoke with Neal George today. He sells Andair valves and
parts. He just got moved by the military to Florida and is
in process getting all hooked up to phone and internet there.
If anyone is looking to get a hold of him, his number for
now is 334-546-2033. He said he just got in some Andair
parts and wanted to make sure that the people who were looking
for them to come in could find him.
Just passing on the info..
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Antenna Placement |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
I placed mine a little ahead of the fuel pump so I could access it
easily but as far aft as I could. There is some hot gas coming from
the exhaust and I think that might effect the longevity of the
antenna. My plane is not painted and I see scorched marks under the
belly.
I have had done this on my RV6 and 10. Once in a while I am told
"radar contact lost". but it comes back shortly. I am not sure if
this is the traffic controllers problem or the gear leg shadow.
On 6/6/06, John Hasbrouck <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> I'm thinking that a good place for the x-ponder ant. is just behind the
> firewall, under the forward part of the tunnel just below the heat duct "T".
> What I don't know is what the cowl is like in this area and how far forward
> I can place the blade antenna without interference. I read Tim's site and
> he indicated his is near the fuel pump which would be a little farther aft.
> That sounds like a more crowded area but probably easier to get to if the
> need arose. Also, how bad, if at all, would interference with the signal be
> from the nose gear? I'm about to rivet the forward bottom skin and want to
> double the area and place the nutplates while it's easy. Any suggestions?
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder Antenna Placement |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
My choice to go aft was for something I think is a good reason. If you
go in the center, right behind the firewall, your exhaust will be
blowing within inches of your antenna. As long as you can get to the
area, adding the doubler won't be too bad later (if you have help
bucking, or use pop rivets (which is what I did). You may want to wait
on locating it until you get a good view of a cowl and can see
see into the future a bit further. As you build, you'll find all
sorts of things that may get in the way, so I'd just keep pounding on
the major structure as much as possible.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Hasbrouck wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> I'm thinking that a good place for the x-ponder ant. is just behind the
> firewall, under the forward part of the tunnel just below the heat duct
> "T". What I don't know is what the cowl is like in this area and how far
> forward I can place the blade antenna without interference. I read
> Tim's site and he indicated his is near the fuel pump which would be a
> little farther aft. That sounds like a more crowded area but probably
> easier to get to if the need arose. Also, how bad, if at all, would
> interference with the signal be from the nose gear? I'm about to rivet
> the forward bottom skin and want to double the area and place the
> nutplates while it's easy. Any suggestions?
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder Antenna Placement |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
why not locate it under the right seat? no access or heat considerations
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 6:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Antenna Placement
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> My choice to go aft was for something I think is a good reason. If you
> go in the center, right behind the firewall, your exhaust will be
> blowing within inches of your antenna. As long as you can get to the
> area, adding the doubler won't be too bad later (if you have help
> bucking, or use pop rivets (which is what I did). You may want to wait
> on locating it until you get a good view of a cowl and can see
> see into the future a bit further. As you build, you'll find all
> sorts of things that may get in the way, so I'd just keep pounding on
> the major structure as much as possible.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> John Hasbrouck wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>>
>> I'm thinking that a good place for the x-ponder ant. is just behind the
>> firewall, under the forward part of the tunnel just below the heat duct
>> "T". What I don't know is what the cowl is like in this area and how far
>> forward I can place the blade antenna without interference. I read Tim's
>> site and he indicated his is near the fuel pump which would be a little
>> farther aft. That sounds like a more crowded area but probably easier to
>> get to if the need arose. Also, how bad, if at all, would interference
>> with the signal be from the nose gear? I'm about to rivet the forward
>> bottom skin and want to double the area and place the nutplates while
>> it's easy. Any suggestions?
>>
>> John Hasbrouck
>> #40264
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder Antenna Placement |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Under the seat would be a dandy place for it too. Just make sure it
clears the brake and fuel lines and it should be just great.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
David McNeill wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
>
> why not locate it under the right seat? no access or heat considerations
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 6:51 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Antenna Placement
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> My choice to go aft was for something I think is a good reason. If you
>> go in the center, right behind the firewall, your exhaust will be
>> blowing within inches of your antenna. As long as you can get to the
>> area, adding the doubler won't be too bad later (if you have help
>> bucking, or use pop rivets (which is what I did). You may want to wait
>> on locating it until you get a good view of a cowl and can see
>> see into the future a bit further. As you build, you'll find all
>> sorts of things that may get in the way, so I'd just keep pounding on
>> the major structure as much as possible.
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> John Hasbrouck wrote:
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck"
>>> <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>>>
>>> I'm thinking that a good place for the x-ponder ant. is just behind
>>> the firewall, under the forward part of the tunnel just below the
>>> heat duct "T". What I don't know is what the cowl is like in this
>>> area and how far forward I can place the blade antenna without
>>> interference. I read Tim's site and he indicated his is near the
>>> fuel pump which would be a little farther aft. That sounds like a
>>> more crowded area but probably easier to get to if the need arose.
>>> Also, how bad, if at all, would interference with the signal be from
>>> the nose gear? I'm about to rivet the forward bottom skin and want
>>> to double the area and place the nutplates while it's easy. Any
>>> suggestions?
>>>
>>> John Hasbrouck
>>> #40264
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder Antenna Placement |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer@verizon.net>
Hey John, I located mine under the right seat where the brake and fuel line
run to the wing root area. It has easy access to place a doubler and to get
to the connector if need be. I have flown 85 hours, mostly with codes from
ATC for IFR or flight following, and have not had any complaints.
Message 32
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|
After much thought, and taking into consideration what comments I've
received from fellow listers, I have decided on my cabin heat solution.
I have talked to Don ( RV8 builder) at Aviacomp (503) 543-3986, whom
manufactures all the heat/ vent ducting parts for Vans, as well as
Cirrus, etc, etc., and he is going to modify the T duct (Van's p/n
VA-175 Heat Duct Tee) which is just aft of the firewall, to include a
selector valve that will allow me to direct the forward heat to go left,
right or mix both. This will be a direct replacement for the non
selector T valve, and will mate to the existing Vans VENT DL-102.4
flanges. This will allow me to control the left/right heat volume in the
forward footwell area. In addition, Don will provide me with another
selector valve, which I will install in the rear heat supply line, that
will allow me to mix (divert) the aft heat to a duct for defog function
This is a solution that allows me the most flexibility, with minimum
weight and complexity (two additional control cables). Don will provide
similar components for anyone else interested in a similar system, just
give him a call.
Chris Hukill
Workin the tunnel
Message 33
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| Subject: | Yellowstone Trip & Performance update |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I just finally got some time dedicated to getting a few things on
my site. Sorry that it's been a while...
Anyway, I updated http://www.MyRV10.com/N104CD with some cool
info, especially some performance stuff, from my Yellowstone trip.
Complete with some screenshots that I'm sure some of you will like.
I'll be adding a performance section in the next few days, open
to accept info from other -10'ers too.
I added just a tiny bit of stuff from my last oil change.
...and a few other minor things on the main http://www.MyRV10.com page.
So if you want to go right to the trip report, just use this link:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/index.html
About 82 hours and counting fast....boy is this flying fun. ;)
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Pinpoint AHRS Update |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
For those who are closely watching the Chelton/Crossbow AHRS recall, and
waiting for info on the Pinpoint GADAHRS that will be substituted for
the Crossbow, I wanted to post a small update.
I got my unit last week, and got it all installed before my trip to
Yellowstone. From an installation perspective, it is not too much
work to install, especially if you prepare. With the Chelton supplied
wiring harness, they plan to locate your AHRS unit behind the panel,
as it has a remote magnetometer that can mount elsewhere, such as
in the wing. The other component that needs to be mounted is the
OAT probe, necessary because the pinpoint also contains a complete
air data computer. If you are already using another EIS for your
air data, like I'm using my Grand Rapids EIS6000 (chelton version),
there is special wiring you can do to accomodate both sets of air data,
so contact D2AV or me for information if you're in this position.
Nothing too complex. The other difference is that it requires you
to plumb a pitot and static line to the AHRS unit, as this is needed
for Air Data, of course. The AHRS box also has a GPS antenna connector,
so consideration should be given to mounting it near the antenna.
For me, the install went very easily, with the only real big change
being the fact that the new wiring diagram lists using 3-conductor
shielded and not using any shields for signal grounds. So if you're
awaiting a pinpoint unit, just make sure you have at least one
3-conductor cable pulled between the AHRS and the screens. It is
also used between the AHRS and the MSU. The rest can be 2-conductor
shielded. I won't go into any more detail on the install right now
though, but this is just a head's up to give people who are waiting
a couple of tips. You will also want to plan ahead for how you
are going to get your pitot and static lines there.
In my install, I have the AHRS on the same forward tail shelf
as the last one. I put the OAT probe next to the access plate
under the right wing, and for the magnetometer I couldn't decide
between the wingtip or the tail, but ended up thinking it would
be easiest for me to mount in the aft section of the tail, on a
2nd shelf, above the elevator pushrod. I figured this would give a
great location from a ferrous metal, and electrical perspective.
I know the big question is, how does it work. Well, I can say that
there are currently a few people, using various types of aircraft, who
have installed the unit and are test flying it right now. We are on
the "demolition team" to test it in a few various small aircraft types,
and determine if there is anything we can do to cause it to not work
properly. It's being done in owner-built planes, to ensure that
even substandard mounting and wiring won't throw the thing way out
of whack....hopefully mine isn't too substandard. ;) Being an AHRS
that was generated from the Boeing/Airbus type aircraft systems, it
needs to be tested in smaller aircraft to ensure all is well. If
all goes well, it can be released for production deliveries, and if
anything needs to be checked, it can be retested as needed by the
team to ensure all will be well when it's delivered.
I only fill you in on this so that you all know that even though
you may not have heard anything lately, there is stuff going on
right now, and progress is being made towards getting them out
the door.
As for how it's working for me, I have put about 11-12 hours on it
in the past few days, and have found nothing at all that I can question
about it. I was not overly disappointed in the crossbow, as the only
things that ever happened to me is that I couldn't get it to boot
about 10 or 12 times, and in-flight it performed fine. But I can say
that this one is performing every bit as good as the Crossbow. I've
tried many various attitude maneuvers, some pretty extreme, and
I've not seen anything negative yet. I'm almost disappointed, as
being part of a team to "break" something, I was hoping I'd be more
useful in helping them test and perfect it. At any rate, I know
I was always wondering what the heck was going on, and why we heard
about it so long ago, but saw nothing in our hands. I figured I
should write and let you know that I can now say there is
progress. I am told that after I/we have tested it completely that
they'll be retiring these original units and re-shipping us all
completed production units with any required updates installed,
post-retesting, of course.
You can ask me any questions offline if you wish, but I can't go
into much detail during the testing period. I'm sure they want
to make sure that everything that is said is accurate, including
any install info. But, I can maybe at least help keep you pointed
in the right direction for when you get the pinpoint.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
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