---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 06/06/06: 34 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 03:35 AM - Re: New Andair Fuel valve (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 2. 03:55 AM - Re: Mounting fuse blocks (Jesse Saint) 3. 03:59 AM - Re: how long til you know your fuel tanks are good? (Jesse Saint) 4. 04:02 AM - Re: New Andair Fuel valve (Jesse Saint) 5. 04:14 AM - Re: New Andair Fuel valve (Tim Olson) 6. 05:03 AM - Re: Mounting fuse blocks (Richard Reynolds) 7. 06:12 AM - Re: Mounting fuse blocks (Jesse Saint) 8. 06:12 AM - Re: how long til you know your fuel tanks are good? (Tim Olson) 9. 06:18 AM - 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps (Michael Wellenzohn) 10. 06:18 AM - Re: Mounting fuse blocks (Doerr, Ray R [NTK]) 11. 06:23 AM - Re: how long til you know your fuel tanks are good? (Rick) 12. 06:30 AM - Re: HS done! Elevators next (Wellenzohn) 13. 06:42 AM - Re: 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps (Rick) 14. 06:47 AM - Re: how long til you know your fuel tanks are good? (Jesse Saint) 15. 06:51 AM - Re: Mounting fuse blocks (Rick) 16. 06:51 AM - Re: 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 17. 06:54 AM - Re: Mounting fuse blocks (Brinker) 18. 08:15 AM - Re: 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps (Lloyd, Daniel R.) 19. 09:40 AM - Re: Mounting fuse blocks (Dan Masys) 20. 09:45 AM - Re: Re: Mounting fuse blocks (Dan Masys) 21. 09:54 AM - Re: Mounting fuse blocks (Dan Masys) 22. 10:02 AM - Re: Mounting fuse blocks (linn Walters) 23. 02:50 PM - Re: blown fuses (Dan Masys) 24. 03:32 PM - Andair Parts / Neal George Moved (Tim Olson) 25. 05:15 PM - Transponder Antenna Placement (John Hasbrouck) 26. 05:47 PM - Re: Andair Parts / Neal George Moved (Albert Gardner) 27. 06:38 PM - Re: Transponder Antenna Placement (Rob Kermanj) 28. 06:52 PM - Re: Transponder Antenna Placement (Tim Olson) 29. 07:17 PM - Re: Transponder Antenna Placement (David McNeill) 30. 07:46 PM - Re: Transponder Antenna Placement (Tim Olson) 31. 07:53 PM - Re: Transponder Antenna Placement (Mark Chamberlain) 32. 08:00 PM - rear seat heat (Chris Hukill) 33. 10:49 PM - Yellowstone Trip & Performance update (Tim Olson) 34. 10:49 PM - Pinpoint AHRS Update (Tim Olson) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 03:35:14 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: New Andair Fuel valve From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" I have a feeling these are primarily aimed at the pusher crowd. I know when I was looking at building a Cozy or Velocity I really wished for a product like this to keep the fuel out of the cockpit. Would also be useful in an aircraft with a aft header tank. Michael Sausen RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage Do Not Archive Recent RV-10 Build Activity ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 12:14 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: New Andair Fuel valve I saw that ad also but I don't understand how fuel can get from the wing to the engine without going through the cabin. The fuel pump and filter as well as the floscan transducer are all in the tunnel. I imagined that the lines from the new Andair valve would come in from the wings to a T-fitting and then go to the fuel pump. There would still be fuel going through the cabin just no selector valve.. Albert Gardner 40-422 Yuma, AZ Do not archive -----Original Message----- Subject: RV10-List: New Andair Fuel valve Saw in my new Kitplanes that Andair will be offering a new remote fuel selector. The selector looks like all the others but the actual valve can be put anywhere since its fly by wire (solenoid of some sort I presume). So fuel lines in the cabin may be avoided. Cool. -CHris #40072 fuselage slobuild ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 03:55:55 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks From: "Jesse Saint" --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" Very nice. Jesse > --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys > > If you happen to be using the Aeroelectric approach of using fuse blocks > instead of (or along with) breakers, one way of mounting the fuse holders > so they are out of the way but accessible when needed is to put them on a > hinged panel between the panel and subpanel. Just got mine cut and > installed. These pics show the essential buss block (20 fuse positions), > main block (10 position) and battery block (6 position), separated by the > diode mounted to a heat sink from B&C specialties: > do not archive > Seen from above: > http://132.239.155.44/rv10/2006-06-05_fuseblockmount.jpg > > and below, where a Dzus cowl fastener keeps the plate in place > http://132.239.155.44/rv10/2006-06-05_fuseblockmount_b.jpg > > One half twist of the cowl fastener the the plate drops down vertically > for access to the fuses. > > -Dan Masys > #40448 > > Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 03:59:39 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: how long til you know your fuel tanks are good? From: "Jesse Saint" --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" That's the $64,000 question. I think the Van's test kit says something like a couple of hours. If you truly have no leaks, then the balloon will stay inflated for days, with variations in the size of the inflation based on changes in air temp, but it will stay inflated. It really is a good feeling looking over the next morning, and the next morning, seeing that balloon still inflated. do not archive. Jesse Saint > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" > > > Hey all - > > Here's a dumb question... after finishing up the fuel tanks (and most > of the rest of everything on the wings) I moved on to the fuselage. It > was under the pretext of waiting for proseal to dry. I think the real > deal is that I was putting off testing the tanks because I was > nervous... Anyway, I put the balloon on there, filled it with air, and > guess what? The balloon is still inflated in the morning!! Yay. > Now the question - > > How long do I wait til I call it good and test the other one? > > cj > #40410 > testing tanks/fuse > www.perfectlygoodairplane.net > > Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 04:02:00 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: New Andair Fuel valve From: "Jesse Saint" --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" Out of curiosity, how would you get from the tanks to the engine without going through the cabin? The only thing that would bother me about that is losing electrical power, and with it the ability to change tanks. Do not archive. Jesse Saint > Saw in my new Kitplanes that Andair will be offering a new remote fuel > selector. The selector looks like all the others but the actual valve can > be put anywhere since its fly by wire (solenoid of some sort I presume). > So fuel lines in the cabin may be avoided. Cool. > -CHris > #40072 fuselage slobuild Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 04:14:01 AM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: New Andair Fuel valve --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson With our low-wing -10's, we wouldn't want just a T fitting, you'd want to draw from each tank separately. I for one am glad to just have a plain valve. I'd hate to have a fly-by-wire on something as critical as a fuel valve. At least now I can positively feel that the switch was made properly. Sure, it would probably work fine, but now you've got to have electrical working, and there's just one more thing to fail. I don't know how you'd avoid fuel in the cockpit in the -10. There's no way from the wings to the nose without going through somewhere. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Albert Gardner wrote: > I saw that ad also but I dont understand how fuel can get from the > wing to the engine without going through the cabin. The fuel pump and > filter as well as the floscan transducer are all in the tunnel. I > imagined that the lines from the new Andair valve would come in from the > wings to a T-fitting and then go to the fuel pump. There would still be > fuel going through the cabin just no selector valve.. > > Albert Gardner > > 40-422 > > Yuma, AZ > > Do not archive > > > > -----Original Message----- > * Subject:* RV10-List: New Andair Fuel valve > > Saw in my new Kitplanes that Andair will be offering a new remote fuel > selector. The selector looks like all the others but the actual valve > can be put anywhere since its fly by wire (solenoid of some sort I > presume). So fuel lines in the cabin may be avoided. Cool. > > -CHris > > #40072 fuselage slobuild > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 05:03:36 AM PST US From: Richard Reynolds Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks --> RV10-List message posted by: Richard Reynolds Have you checked access with the brakes installed? Richard Reynolds Norfolk, VA ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:12:05 AM PST US From: "Jesse Saint" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" That looks like it is from the bulkhead to the panel support, so it should be aft of the brakes. The only problem in-flight would be getting your legs out of the way so you could flip it down, but in most cases where you are blowing a fuse, putting another one in is probably not going to fix the problem. The blown fuse is just evidence that there is a problem that needs to be fixed. Do not archive. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Reynolds Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 8:01 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks --> RV10-List message posted by: Richard Reynolds Have you checked access with the brakes installed? Richard Reynolds Norfolk, VA -- -- ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 06:12:05 AM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: how long til you know your fuel tanks are good? --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson I posted long ago on this. The short answer is wait at least a week. Sure, maybe the fast proseal will be fine before then. I made the mistake of testing mine after 24 hours or maybe it was 48. When I pressure tested it, I blew the proseal right out of a couple of those relief slots. Had to re-inject proseal in those areas and pray. It isn't that big of a deal to wait a week. You'll still feel good then. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Jesse Saint wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" > > That's the $64,000 question. I think the Van's test kit says something > like a couple of hours. If you truly have no leaks, then the balloon will > stay inflated for days, with variations in the size of the inflation based > on changes in air temp, but it will stay inflated. It really is a good > feeling looking over the next morning, and the next morning, seeing that > balloon still inflated. > > do not archive. > > Jesse Saint > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" >> >> >> Hey all - >> >> Here's a dumb question... after finishing up the fuel tanks (and most >> of the rest of everything on the wings) I moved on to the fuselage. It >> was under the pretext of waiting for proseal to dry. I think the real >> deal is that I was putting off testing the tanks because I was >> nervous... Anyway, I put the balloon on there, filled it with air, and >> guess what? The balloon is still inflated in the morning!! Yay. >> Now the question - >> >> How long do I wait til I call it good and test the other one? >> >> cj >> #40410 >> testing tanks/fuse >> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > Jesse Saint > I-TEC, Inc. > jesse@itecusa.org > www.itecusa.org > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 06:18:29 AM PST US From: "Michael Wellenzohn" Subject: RV10-List: 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps --> RV10-List message posted by: "Michael Wellenzohn" Hello, I just finished the rudder and thanks to all contributers to this list because my trailing edge came out real nice. I added a picture series of the rudder construction on my site www.wellenzohn.net Here are two questions: 1) How can I remove ProSeal spots from the skin (an easy way pls) 2) The HS construction requires 3/32 match drilling (HS Spar & Spar caps) these drills didn't come with the Tool Kit I bought and I can't find them on the tools webstores. Since I reside in Switzerland I wonder if match drilling with a #40 would also do it. Any suggestions? Michael Wellenzohn #40511 (HS) Zrich,Switzerland michael@wellenzohn.net www.wellenzohn.net ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 06:18:51 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" I did the same thing but installed mine on the pilot side because I had my heater controls on the right side and they go through the lower switch panel and then under the sub-panel. You may have to think about where you are planning to install all you push/pull cables for stuff like Alternate Air, Parking Brake and Front and Rear Heat. Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 N519RV (28 hours on it now) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Monday, June 05, 2006 7:08 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks Dan Precisely what I was about to do (including fuse block selection) - thanks for the pics. But man, that is one BIG heatsink :-) Ron -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Masys Sent: Tuesday, 6 June 2006 9:28 AM Subject: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys If you happen to be using the Aeroelectric approach of using fuse blocks instead of (or along with) breakers, one way of mounting the fuse holders so they are out of the way but accessible when needed is to put them on a hinged panel between the panel and subpanel. Just got mine cut and installed. These pics show the essential buss block (20 fuse positions), main block (10 position) and battery block (6 position), separated by the diode mounted to a heat sink from B&C specialties: Seen from above: http://132.239.155.44/rv10/2006-06-05_fuseblockmount.jpg and below, where a Dzus cowl fastener keeps the plate in place http://132.239.155.44/rv10/2006-06-05_fuseblockmount_b.jpg One half twist of the cowl fastener the the plate drops down vertically for access to the fuses. -Dan Masys #40448 ========================= =========== ========================= =========== ========================= =========== ========================= =========== ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 06:23:16 AM PST US From: Rick Subject: Re: RV10-List: how long til you know your fuel tanks are good? --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick Make that a Manometer...jeez, wonder where my mind was. Rick S. 40185 Fuse/Finish do not archive ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 06:30:39 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: HS done! Elevators next From: "Wellenzohn" --> RV10-List message posted by: "Wellenzohn" Good job, any heads up for me regarding the HS, because I just started it now. Best Regards Michael www.wellenzohn.net -------- RV-10 builder #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=38930#38930 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 06:42:15 AM PST US From: Rick Subject: Re: RV10-List: 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick I have found that you have to let proseal just wear off....when it's still uncured you can use MEK but it is harsh on the skin. You should be fine using the #40 drill bit or it may be easier to find a 2.35 mm bit in Europe. Either should work fine. The difference in size between a #40 and a 3/32 would be measurable if you were doing precise drilling on a lathe, mill or drill press but using a hand drill in soft aluminum, the error (wobble) factor is greater than the size difference. Rick S. 40185 Fuse/Finish ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 06:47:21 AM PST US From: "Jesse Saint" Subject: RE: RV10-List: how long til you know your fuel tanks are good? --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" Of course, I meant to leave the balloon on that long, not to do it that soon after finishing it. The longer you let it wait before testing the more cured it will be. We always wait at least a day before testing. Do not archive. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 9:09 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: how long til you know your fuel tanks are good? --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson I posted long ago on this. The short answer is wait at least a week. Sure, maybe the fast proseal will be fine before then. I made the mistake of testing mine after 24 hours or maybe it was 48. When I pressure tested it, I blew the proseal right out of a couple of those relief slots. Had to re-inject proseal in those areas and pray. It isn't that big of a deal to wait a week. You'll still feel good then. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Jesse Saint wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" > > That's the $64,000 question. I think the Van's test kit says something > like a couple of hours. If you truly have no leaks, then the balloon will > stay inflated for days, with variations in the size of the inflation based > on changes in air temp, but it will stay inflated. It really is a good > feeling looking over the next morning, and the next morning, seeing that > balloon still inflated. > > do not archive. > > Jesse Saint > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris Johnston" >> >> >> Hey all - >> >> Here's a dumb question... after finishing up the fuel tanks (and most >> of the rest of everything on the wings) I moved on to the fuselage. It >> was under the pretext of waiting for proseal to dry. I think the real >> deal is that I was putting off testing the tanks because I was >> nervous... Anyway, I put the balloon on there, filled it with air, and >> guess what? The balloon is still inflated in the morning!! Yay. >> Now the question - >> >> How long do I wait til I call it good and test the other one? >> >> cj >> #40410 >> testing tanks/fuse >> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > Jesse Saint > I-TEC, Inc. > jesse@itecusa.org > www.itecusa.org > > > > > > > > > > > > -- -- ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 06:51:36 AM PST US From: Rick Subject: RE: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick I'm using the one with the heatsink, I have not powered it up but are you saying the voltage drop has been resolved by using the heatsink or is is specific to the unprotected diode? Rick S. 40185 ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 06:51:36 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" Proseal can be cleaned off with MEK relatively easily. I don't remember the need for a 3/32 drill bit but that would be an "A" size bit. Probably easier to find it as that than 3/32. Michael Sausen RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage Do Not Archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wellenzohn Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 8:18 AM Subject: RV10-List: 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps --> RV10-List message posted by: "Michael Wellenzohn" --> Hello, I just finished the rudder and thanks to all contributers to this list because my trailing edge came out real nice. I added a picture series of the rudder construction on my site www.wellenzohn.net Here are two questions: 1) How can I remove ProSeal spots from the skin (an easy way pls) 2) The HS construction requires 3/32 match drilling (HS Spar & Spar caps) these drills didn't come with the Tool Kit I bought and I can't find them on the tools webstores. Since I reside in Switzerland I wonder if match drilling with a #40 would also do it. Any suggestions? Michael Wellenzohn #40511 (HS) Z=FCrich,Switzerland michael@wellenzohn.net www.wellenzohn.net ========================= ========== ========================= ========== ========================= ========== ========================= ========== ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 06:54:27 AM PST US From: "Brinker" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks --> RV10-List message posted by: "Brinker" I was considering something similar but after reading some on the Aeroelectric list and from my experience with automobile fuses is just as you have said. Most of the time no need to replace a blown fuse until the problem itself is fixed. Although would be nice to have access to them during flight. Oh decisions decisions. Randy ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jesse Saint" Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 8:11 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" > > That looks like it is from the bulkhead to the panel support, so it should > be aft of the brakes. The only problem in-flight would be getting your > legs > out of the way so you could flip it down, but in most cases where you are > blowing a fuse, putting another one in is probably not going to fix the > problem. The blown fuse is just evidence that there is a problem that > needs > to be fixed. > > Do not archive. > > Jesse Saint > I-TEC, Inc. > jesse@itecusa.org > www.itecusa.org > W: 352-465-4545 > C: 352-427-0285 > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard > Reynolds > Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 8:01 AM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Richard Reynolds > > Have you checked access with the brakes installed? > > Richard Reynolds > Norfolk, VA > > > -- > > > -- > > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 08:15:35 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." --> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." I have found that Coleman Lantern fuel will clean the proseal spots off, and it evaps very quickly, with no residue. But use it in a well ventilated area, it will cause a bad headache! Also it is not as harsh on your hands or lungs as MEK, and cleans as well. This is what I used on the tanks of the 7, and it is readily available at discount stores and outdoor stores. Dan RV10E (N289DT) Fuselage Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 9:41 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: 3/32 match drilling HS Spar & Spar caps --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick I have found that you have to let proseal just wear off....when it's still uncured you can use MEK but it is harsh on the skin. You should be fine using the #40 drill bit or it may be easier to find a 2.35 mm bit in Europe. Either should work fine. The difference in size between a #40 and a 3/32 would be measurable if you were doing precise drilling on a lathe, mill or drill press but using a hand drill in soft aluminum, the error (wobble) factor is greater than the size difference. Rick S. 40185 Fuse/Finish ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 09:40:57 AM PST US From: Dan Masys Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks Cc: Richard Reynolds --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys Yes, it is fine with respect to the brakes. Lots more room in the -10 than in the two place forward fuselage. Originally got the idea from Andy Karmy whose installation in his -9A is shown here: http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/fuselage/electrical/img_0022.htm -Dan Masys ---- Richard Reynolds wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Richard Reynolds > > Have you checked access with the brakes installed? > > Richard Reynolds > Norfolk, VA > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 09:45:31 AM PST US From: Dan Masys Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Mounting fuse blocks Cc: KiloPapa --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys B & C specialty products has all of the stuff one needs to wire up a plane by the Aeroelectric ('lectric Bob) approach: Fuse blocks are at: http://www.bandcspecialty.com/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?7X358218 TerminalTown also has them at: http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page204.html Hope this helps, -Dan Masys ---- KiloPapa wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "KiloPapa" > > Looks nice. Where did you get the fuse blocks? > > Thanks, > > Kevin > 40494 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=38870#38870 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 09:54:15 AM PST US From: Dan Masys Subject: RE: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys In my -7A the heat-sinked diode has a constant voltage drop (about 0.8 volts) between main buss and e-buss. The old diode, mounted to the plate with the fuseblocks but not separately heat-sinked, would start with a 0.8 volt drop, but as load was added to the e-bus (in particular the TruTrak autopilot, whose load varies with the amount of turbulence due to stepping motor activity and can be up to 7.5a) the voltage drop would go as high as 2.5 volts as it heated up, causing low voltage alarms from the Grand Rapids EIS, which was powered from the e-Bus. Would also occasionally cause the transponder to hiccup. Not a good scene. -Dan ---- Rick wrote: > I'm using the one with the heatsink, I have not powered it up but are you saying the voltage drop has been resolved by using the heatsink or is is specific to the unprotected diode? > > Rick S. > 40185 > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 10:02:52 AM PST US From: linn Walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mounting fuse blocks --> RV10-List message posted by: linn Walters Jesse Saint wrote: >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" > >That looks like it is from the bulkhead to the panel support, so it should >be aft of the brakes. The only problem in-flight would be getting your legs >out of the way so you could flip it down, but in most cases where you are >blowing a fuse, putting another one in is probably not going to fix the >problem. The blown fuse is just evidence that there is a problem that needs >to be fixed. > And while you're preoccupied with the fuses, you aren't flying the plane, checking for traffec etc.!!! Best to wait 'till you're back on solid ground. IMHO, of course :-) Linn > >Do not archive. > >Jesse Saint >I-TEC, Inc. >jesse@itecusa.org >www.itecusa.org >W: 352-465-4545 >C: 352-427-0285 > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 02:50:34 PM PST US From: Dan Masys Subject: Re: RV10-List: blown fuses Cc: linn Walters --> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys ---- linn Walters wrote: > Jesse Saint wrote: > > >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" The only problem in-flight would be getting your legs > >out of the way so you could flip it down, but in most cases where you are > >blowing a fuse, putting another one in is probably not going to fix the > >problem. The blown fuse is just evidence that there is a problem that needs to be fixed. > > > And while you're preoccupied with the fuses, you aren't flying the > plane, checking for traffec etc.!!! Best to wait 'till you're back on > solid ground. IMHO, of course :-) > Linn This is very much the spirit of the Aeroelectric approach: make critical systems redundant so that if one fails (e.g., a fuse blows) you don't have to try to fix it while flying. Just note it and switch to the alternative approach to getting the same job done. The only fuse I have blown in the -7A was the pitot heat, which was sized for the continuous current load but not for the current spike that accompanies the startup of the pitot (approximately 1.6 x the steady state amperage). Switched from a 15A to 20A fuse and lived happily ever after :-). -Dan Masys ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 03:32:03 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: Andair Parts / Neal George Moved --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson I just spoke with Neal George today. He sells Andair valves and parts. He just got moved by the military to Florida and is in process getting all hooked up to phone and internet there. If anyone is looking to get a hold of him, his number for now is 334-546-2033. He said he just got in some Andair parts and wanted to make sure that the people who were looking for them to come in could find him. Just passing on the info.. -- Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 05:15:09 PM PST US From: "John Hasbrouck" Subject: RV10-List: Transponder Antenna Placement --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" I'm thinking that a good place for the x-ponder ant. is just behind the firewall, under the forward part of the tunnel just below the heat duct "T". What I don't know is what the cowl is like in this area and how far forward I can place the blade antenna without interference. I read Tim's site and he indicated his is near the fuel pump which would be a little farther aft. That sounds like a more crowded area but probably easier to get to if the need arose. Also, how bad, if at all, would interference with the signal be from the nose gear? I'm about to rivet the forward bottom skin and want to double the area and place the nutplates while it's easy. Any suggestions? John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 05:47:28 PM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Andair Parts / Neal George Moved --> RV10-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" I had an extension on order but installed my Andair valve without it so Neal has the extension that was on order for me. If anyone needs one Neal has at least one on the shelf. Call him-he said he won't have email for at least a week. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson I just spoke with Neal George today. He sells Andair valves and parts. He just got moved by the military to Florida and is in process getting all hooked up to phone and internet there. If anyone is looking to get a hold of him, his number for now is 334-546-2033. He said he just got in some Andair parts and wanted to make sure that the people who were looking for them to come in could find him. Just passing on the info.. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 06:38:54 PM PST US From: "Rob Kermanj" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Antenna Placement --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" I placed mine a little ahead of the fuel pump so I could access it easily but as far aft as I could. There is some hot gas coming from the exhaust and I think that might effect the longevity of the antenna. My plane is not painted and I see scorched marks under the belly. I have had done this on my RV6 and 10. Once in a while I am told "radar contact lost". but it comes back shortly. I am not sure if this is the traffic controllers problem or the gear leg shadow. On 6/6/06, John Hasbrouck wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" > > I'm thinking that a good place for the x-ponder ant. is just behind the > firewall, under the forward part of the tunnel just below the heat duct "T". > What I don't know is what the cowl is like in this area and how far forward > I can place the blade antenna without interference. I read Tim's site and > he indicated his is near the fuel pump which would be a little farther aft. > That sounds like a more crowded area but probably easier to get to if the > need arose. Also, how bad, if at all, would interference with the signal be > from the nose gear? I'm about to rivet the forward bottom skin and want to > double the area and place the nutplates while it's easy. Any suggestions? > > John Hasbrouck > #40264 > > ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 06:52:47 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Antenna Placement --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson My choice to go aft was for something I think is a good reason. If you go in the center, right behind the firewall, your exhaust will be blowing within inches of your antenna. As long as you can get to the area, adding the doubler won't be too bad later (if you have help bucking, or use pop rivets (which is what I did). You may want to wait on locating it until you get a good view of a cowl and can see see into the future a bit further. As you build, you'll find all sorts of things that may get in the way, so I'd just keep pounding on the major structure as much as possible. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive John Hasbrouck wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" > > I'm thinking that a good place for the x-ponder ant. is just behind the > firewall, under the forward part of the tunnel just below the heat duct > "T". What I don't know is what the cowl is like in this area and how far > forward I can place the blade antenna without interference. I read > Tim's site and he indicated his is near the fuel pump which would be a > little farther aft. That sounds like a more crowded area but probably > easier to get to if the need arose. Also, how bad, if at all, would > interference with the signal be from the nose gear? I'm about to rivet > the forward bottom skin and want to double the area and place the > nutplates while it's easy. Any suggestions? > > John Hasbrouck > #40264 > ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 07:17:19 PM PST US From: "David McNeill" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Antenna Placement --> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" why not locate it under the right seat? no access or heat considerations ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 6:51 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Antenna Placement > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > My choice to go aft was for something I think is a good reason. If you > go in the center, right behind the firewall, your exhaust will be > blowing within inches of your antenna. As long as you can get to the > area, adding the doubler won't be too bad later (if you have help > bucking, or use pop rivets (which is what I did). You may want to wait > on locating it until you get a good view of a cowl and can see > see into the future a bit further. As you build, you'll find all > sorts of things that may get in the way, so I'd just keep pounding on > the major structure as much as possible. > > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > do not archive > > > John Hasbrouck wrote: >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" >> >> I'm thinking that a good place for the x-ponder ant. is just behind the >> firewall, under the forward part of the tunnel just below the heat duct >> "T". What I don't know is what the cowl is like in this area and how far >> forward I can place the blade antenna without interference. I read Tim's >> site and he indicated his is near the fuel pump which would be a little >> farther aft. That sounds like a more crowded area but probably easier to >> get to if the need arose. Also, how bad, if at all, would interference >> with the signal be from the nose gear? I'm about to rivet the forward >> bottom skin and want to double the area and place the nutplates while >> it's easy. Any suggestions? >> >> John Hasbrouck >> #40264 >> > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > http://wiki.matronics.com > > > ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 07:46:06 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Antenna Placement --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Under the seat would be a dandy place for it too. Just make sure it clears the brake and fuel lines and it should be just great. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive David McNeill wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" > > why not locate it under the right seat? no access or heat considerations > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 6:51 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Antenna Placement > > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >> >> My choice to go aft was for something I think is a good reason. If you >> go in the center, right behind the firewall, your exhaust will be >> blowing within inches of your antenna. As long as you can get to the >> area, adding the doubler won't be too bad later (if you have help >> bucking, or use pop rivets (which is what I did). You may want to wait >> on locating it until you get a good view of a cowl and can see >> see into the future a bit further. As you build, you'll find all >> sorts of things that may get in the way, so I'd just keep pounding on >> the major structure as much as possible. >> >> >> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying >> do not archive >> >> >> John Hasbrouck wrote: >>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" >>> >>> >>> I'm thinking that a good place for the x-ponder ant. is just behind >>> the firewall, under the forward part of the tunnel just below the >>> heat duct "T". What I don't know is what the cowl is like in this >>> area and how far forward I can place the blade antenna without >>> interference. I read Tim's site and he indicated his is near the >>> fuel pump which would be a little farther aft. That sounds like a >>> more crowded area but probably easier to get to if the need arose. >>> Also, how bad, if at all, would interference with the signal be from >>> the nose gear? I'm about to rivet the forward bottom skin and want >>> to double the area and place the nutplates while it's easy. Any >>> suggestions? >>> >>> John Hasbrouck >>> #40264 >>> >> >> >> >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> http://wiki.matronics.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > http://wiki.matronics.com > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 07:53:34 PM PST US From: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer@verizon.net> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Antenna Placement --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer@verizon.net> Hey John, I located mine under the right seat where the brake and fuel line run to the wing root area. It has easy access to place a doubler and to get to the connector if need be. I have flown 85 hours, mostly with codes from ATC for IFR or flight following, and have not had any complaints. ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 08:00:01 PM PST US From: "Chris Hukill" Subject: RV10-List: rear seat heat After much thought, and taking into consideration what comments I've received from fellow listers, I have decided on my cabin heat solution. I have talked to Don ( RV8 builder) at Aviacomp (503) 543-3986, whom manufactures all the heat/ vent ducting parts for Vans, as well as Cirrus, etc, etc., and he is going to modify the T duct (Van's p/n VA-175 Heat Duct Tee) which is just aft of the firewall, to include a selector valve that will allow me to direct the forward heat to go left, right or mix both. This will be a direct replacement for the non selector T valve, and will mate to the existing Vans VENT DL-102.4 flanges. This will allow me to control the left/right heat volume in the forward footwell area. In addition, Don will provide me with another selector valve, which I will install in the rear heat supply line, that will allow me to mix (divert) the aft heat to a duct for defog function This is a solution that allows me the most flexibility, with minimum weight and complexity (two additional control cables). Don will provide similar components for anyone else interested in a similar system, just give him a call. Chris Hukill Workin the tunnel ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 10:49:33 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: Yellowstone Trip & Performance update --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson I just finally got some time dedicated to getting a few things on my site. Sorry that it's been a while... Anyway, I updated http://www.MyRV10.com/N104CD with some cool info, especially some performance stuff, from my Yellowstone trip. Complete with some screenshots that I'm sure some of you will like. I'll be adding a performance section in the next few days, open to accept info from other -10'ers too. I added just a tiny bit of stuff from my last oil change. ...and a few other minor things on the main http://www.MyRV10.com page. So if you want to go right to the trip report, just use this link: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/index.html About 82 hours and counting fast....boy is this flying fun. ;) -- Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 10:49:33 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: Pinpoint AHRS Update --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson For those who are closely watching the Chelton/Crossbow AHRS recall, and waiting for info on the Pinpoint GADAHRS that will be substituted for the Crossbow, I wanted to post a small update. I got my unit last week, and got it all installed before my trip to Yellowstone. From an installation perspective, it is not too much work to install, especially if you prepare. With the Chelton supplied wiring harness, they plan to locate your AHRS unit behind the panel, as it has a remote magnetometer that can mount elsewhere, such as in the wing. The other component that needs to be mounted is the OAT probe, necessary because the pinpoint also contains a complete air data computer. If you are already using another EIS for your air data, like I'm using my Grand Rapids EIS6000 (chelton version), there is special wiring you can do to accomodate both sets of air data, so contact D2AV or me for information if you're in this position. Nothing too complex. The other difference is that it requires you to plumb a pitot and static line to the AHRS unit, as this is needed for Air Data, of course. The AHRS box also has a GPS antenna connector, so consideration should be given to mounting it near the antenna. For me, the install went very easily, with the only real big change being the fact that the new wiring diagram lists using 3-conductor shielded and not using any shields for signal grounds. So if you're awaiting a pinpoint unit, just make sure you have at least one 3-conductor cable pulled between the AHRS and the screens. It is also used between the AHRS and the MSU. The rest can be 2-conductor shielded. I won't go into any more detail on the install right now though, but this is just a head's up to give people who are waiting a couple of tips. You will also want to plan ahead for how you are going to get your pitot and static lines there. In my install, I have the AHRS on the same forward tail shelf as the last one. I put the OAT probe next to the access plate under the right wing, and for the magnetometer I couldn't decide between the wingtip or the tail, but ended up thinking it would be easiest for me to mount in the aft section of the tail, on a 2nd shelf, above the elevator pushrod. I figured this would give a great location from a ferrous metal, and electrical perspective. I know the big question is, how does it work. Well, I can say that there are currently a few people, using various types of aircraft, who have installed the unit and are test flying it right now. We are on the "demolition team" to test it in a few various small aircraft types, and determine if there is anything we can do to cause it to not work properly. It's being done in owner-built planes, to ensure that even substandard mounting and wiring won't throw the thing way out of whack....hopefully mine isn't too substandard. ;) Being an AHRS that was generated from the Boeing/Airbus type aircraft systems, it needs to be tested in smaller aircraft to ensure all is well. If all goes well, it can be released for production deliveries, and if anything needs to be checked, it can be retested as needed by the team to ensure all will be well when it's delivered. I only fill you in on this so that you all know that even though you may not have heard anything lately, there is stuff going on right now, and progress is being made towards getting them out the door. As for how it's working for me, I have put about 11-12 hours on it in the past few days, and have found nothing at all that I can question about it. I was not overly disappointed in the crossbow, as the only things that ever happened to me is that I couldn't get it to boot about 10 or 12 times, and in-flight it performed fine. But I can say that this one is performing every bit as good as the Crossbow. I've tried many various attitude maneuvers, some pretty extreme, and I've not seen anything negative yet. I'm almost disappointed, as being part of a team to "break" something, I was hoping I'd be more useful in helping them test and perfect it. At any rate, I know I was always wondering what the heck was going on, and why we heard about it so long ago, but saw nothing in our hands. I figured I should write and let you know that I can now say there is progress. I am told that after I/we have tested it completely that they'll be retiring these original units and re-shipping us all completed production units with any required updates installed, post-retesting, of course. You can ask me any questions offline if you wish, but I can't go into much detail during the testing period. I'm sure they want to make sure that everything that is said is accurate, including any install info. But, I can maybe at least help keep you pointed in the right direction for when you get the pinpoint. -- Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive