Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:51 AM - Re: FW: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG (Russell Daves)
2. 04:36 AM - Re: FW: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG (Tim Olson)
3. 05:27 AM - Re: gas tanks (Jim & Julie Wade)
4. 05:47 AM - Re: FW: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG (Jesse Saint)
5. 05:58 AM - Re: Re: gas tanks ()
6. 06:07 AM - Re: FW: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG (Dan Masys)
7. 07:13 AM - Re: FW: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG (Tim Olson)
8. 07:24 AM - Re: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
9. 07:27 AM - Re: FW: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
10. 09:25 AM - Re: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility (Jesse Saint)
11. 10:06 AM - Re: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
12. 10:25 AM - Re: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
13. 10:59 AM - Re: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility (Tim Olson)
14. 11:26 AM - Re: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility (Jesse Saint)
15. 11:42 AM - Re: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
16. 12:47 PM - Re: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
17. 01:15 PM - Re: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility (Tim Olson)
18. 01:34 PM - Re: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility (bcondrey)
19. 07:59 PM - Re: gas tanks (David Maib)
20. 08:07 PM - Re: FW: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG (Richard Sipp)
21. 09:32 PM - RV10 Window Junction Cracks - Any Advise? (L Aune)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG |
Hope this helps. DO NOT ARCHIVE
Russ Daves #044
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 11:10 PM
Subject: RE: FW: RV10-List: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright"
> <armywrights@adelphia.net>
>
> Could you or others please post some pictures of the backs of your panels
> so
> I can start getting a mental image of possibilities?
>
> Rob
>
> #392 Wings
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Dick, that is a beautiful panel and the layout looks to be great.
You'll like flying behind it. They did a good job for you.
Congrats on having the panel done, it's a real milestone.
Russ, it looks like you have yours home and are playing with it now,
I bet you're like a proud new father! :) I can't wait to see it
at OSH this year!
Rob (and others), you're right to want to worry a bit about the
back of the panel. I assume you really don't care about the
backside of the panel, as much as you mean the subpanels and
inside upper firewall. There is a lot of stuff that goes there,
and it gets hard to find convenient space.
My best advice is to try to use as much of the space as wisely
as you can, and then you'll find room for everything else.
First look at the large items, like the Lightspeed Ignition
if you have one, and the WSI receiver or XM receiver if you
have one. I put those on the inside upper firewall. In the
case of the lightspeed, I put it on the opposite side from
my radio stack to give a little extra margin in case there
was some electrical noise coming from it (there is not).
The WSI is mounted next to that, behind the radio stack.
All of my fuse boxes are on the subpanel on the front side.
Just put them wherever convenient, but OVERESTIMATE the amount
of spots you need....like if you think you need 8 on the avionics
bus, then do 12. You'll find that even with good planning during
the panel install, you'll probably want one or two more
than you thought. I used breakers for most major things, and
items that I'd want pullable for safety reasons (trim, AP, flaps)
I used fuses for things that I could just ditch easily by using
the E-Bus. (Weather, certain lights, ANR power, other stuff like
that.
Sensors like MAP sensor converter, and your Encoder if you have
one, aren't really very large, so they're easy to find space for.
There's actually quite a bit of space behind the panel, if
you're creative. I cut a couple of larger holes in the
subpanel that you'll see on my site. They weren't necessary, but
the largest one is kind of handy for reaching or looking through
to access upper firewall items. The only things forward of
my subpanel that aren't on the firewall are my e-bus schottky
diode, my stall buzzer, and my avionics fan. Most other things
are aft of the subpanel or on the aft side. So I could squeeze a
bit more on there if I wanted....but it gets a little harder.
So I wouldn't stress too much, as long as you plan for the large
items....and think wire runs all the time. Like when going from
my GRT to my engine for EGT/CHT probes, I have a strategically
placed subpanel hole and then one through the firewall. It makes
it a nice straight run. Laying out the panel is the hard part,
but it isn't as hard to come up with panel-forward placements.
Again guys, thanks for sharing the photos. Those are great.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Richard Sipp wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 2:13 PM
> Subject: Re: FW: RV10-List: Digiflight IIVSGV
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> Another list member saw today's AP reply I did, and asked me
>> to comment on now that I've been flying a while, what would
>> I change on the panel. I wrote this reply, but decided to
>> send it on to the list, because I know one choice that
>> always bugs builders is what to get between the GNS-430,
>> 480, and 530. I don't have all the answers, but I may
>> as well send the reply out so the other interested parties
>> can see how I feel today...
>
>
> Tim has provided tons of valuable information and continues to do so.
> To his credit he is willing to acknowledge when there might be
> alternative ways to do something. Tim's great panel is an example of
> state of the art IFR capable technology available today.
>
> Instrument panels are probably the best example of builders expressing
> their preferences and ideas.
>
> Here is one more.
>
> In my case I appreciated the capability of the Chelton, not just the
> screen display and its conformal duplication of the outside world but
> also its flight management features. So, being on a budget, I tried to
> come up with a Chelton based panel as economically and simply as
> possible without sacrificing anything necessary for safe redundant IFR &
> full GPS approach capability.
>
> The basic components are the Cheltons with optional Free Flight 1201
> WAAS receiver. This GPS is a remote mounted unit not a panel mount and
> "plays" through the Chelton. The rest of the major components are an
> SL30,SL40,327, AOA, VMC1000 engine monitor TruTrak Digiflight VGVS and
> back up ADI with independent battery. The Free Flight receiver is
> certified for LNAV/VNAV procedures and will be upgradable to the new LPV
> approach and provides full RAIM functionality. With this combination I
> should be able to fly automatic coupled GPS approaches or a manual ILS
> with both the ILS raw data and a GPS derived HTS display of the ILS
> displayed on the Chelton simultaneously.
>
> We did elect to have the panel built by Aerotronics rather than
> attempting to do it here. I think compared to the amount of time I
> would have had to spend on that project it was money well spent. Like
> engine shops that test run engines after the build, the panel is bench
> tested for all functions and inspected by an independent avionics
> inspector after completion. One of the write ups was "finger print
> smudge on PFD display" The documentation for installing the panel in
> the airframe is on a par with Van's kit instructions and makes the
> process easy to complete. Aerotronics completed several other optional
> systems like trim and infinity stick grip wiring all pre-tested. If you
> elect to have a panel built by one of the specialized shops you will
> spend a lot of time communicating with them during the course of the
> project. I was completely satisfied with the process at Aerotronics.
>
> We were able to position the Chelton displays and other radios with the
> PFD centered in front of the pilot and without having to modify any of
> the longitudinal ribs that connect the panel to the firewall. Two
> openings were required in the subpanel for the Garmin radios.
>
> The switches and circuit breakers are arranged in order of normal usage
> with the exception of the fuel pump switch (above throttle) and
> autopilot master (next to autopilot). The picture does not do justice
> to the quality of the detail work on the front and back of the panel but
> it provides an idea of the layout.
>
> I traveled by car half way across the country to pick up the panel and
> thought about trying to power the panel, put a GPS antenna on the roof
> and "fly" it home but ended up just wrapping it in foam and putting it
> in the truck.
>
> Picture attached.
>
> Dick Sipp
> 40065
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Message 3
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwadejr@hughes.net>
I installed them in my slow build wings. Yes you can put them in the quick build
fairly easy. You will have to remove the fuel tanks from the wings to get the
fitting in the tanks and hookup the hose from the pump to the tank. Once the
tank is off, you install the pump and brackets for the tank in the wing nose
section next to the tank. I installed them to be able to go and come home without
buying fuel. I have my own tank and can buy gas a lot cheaper than at the
pump.
Jim
40383
Only paint left, wings & tail
Waiting on panel(frustration!!!!!!!)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=41390#41390
Message 4
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| Subject: | Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
How are people holding in their radio stack(s)? I have used RadioRax in the
past, but they are pretty expensive. I assumed just normal aluminum angle
should do the trick, although would require a little bit more work in
alignment. Also, if angle, what size is being used, and is it just being
used on the sides, or also on the top and bottom (or just on the top and
bottom, for individual radios like yours, Russ)?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 5:45 AM
Subject: Re: FW: RV10-List: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG
Hope this helps. DO NOT ARCHIVE
Russ Daves #044
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 11:10 PM
Subject: RE: FW: RV10-List: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright"
> <armywrights@adelphia.net>
>
> Could you or others please post some pictures of the backs of your panels
> so
> I can start getting a mental image of possibilities?
>
> Rob
>
> #392 Wings
--
--
Message 5
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--> RV10-List message posted by: <gorejr@bellsouth.net>
Thanks for the info. I go on the Cen Am trip with the Baja Bush Pilots. We meet
in Mexico and proceed to Guatemala, Nicaragua,El Salvador, Costa Rica and end
up flying over the Panama Canal. Last year we had 26 planes. Without a doubt
the trip I look forward to most every year. This will be my 7th year. Can't
wait to fly the 10 down there. Anyone is welcome! Jim
>
> From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
> Date: 2006/06/15 Thu PM 11:42:48 EDT
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: gas tanks
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> I have not used them, but my understanding is that they are made
> specifically to be installed in finished wings as a retro-fit option, so you
> just need to make sure you don't have any wingtip antennas and you should be
> fine. You will need to do a little plumbing to get the fuel into your
> existing tanks, but I think that is the hardest part of the installation.
>
> Where do you go in Central America?
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> gorejr@bellsouth.net
> Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 10:04 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: gas tanks
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <gorejr@bellsouth.net>
>
> I am building a quickbuild RV-10 and want the SafeAir1 extra fuel tanks as I
>
> fly to Central America yearly. Will these easily adapt to the quickbuild
> wings
> and tanks? I have only received the tail kit. Just trying to plan ahead.
> Thanks Jim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
For the radio stack in my -7A I used a pair of vertical 3/4 x 3/4 x .063 angles
bolted to the back side of the panel, and used 0.032 sheet to make sidewalls
that the individual radio trays could bolt into. Left about 1/8 inch vertically
between each for cooling. Works fine, and makes the whole stack a solid unit.
Planning to do the same for the -10 panel.
-Dan Masys
#40448 systems in the canoe stage
---- Jesse Saint <jesse@itecusa.org> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> How are people holding in their radio stack(s)? I have used RadioRax in the
> past, but they are pretty expensive. I assumed just normal aluminum angle
> should do the trick, although would require a little bit more work in
> alignment. Also, if angle, what size is being used, and is it just being
> used on the sides, or also on the top and bottom (or just on the top and
> bottom, for individual radios like yours, Russ)?
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 5:45 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: FW: RV10-List: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG
>
> Hope this helps. DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> Russ Daves #044
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 11:10 PM
> Subject: RE: FW: RV10-List: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright"
> > <armywrights@adelphia.net>
> >
> > Could you or others please post some pictures of the backs of your panels
> > so
> > I can start getting a mental image of possibilities?
> >
> > Rob
> >
> > #392 Wings
>
> --
>
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I have some 3/4"x3/4"x.125 angle running vertically on the front sides
of the stack, flush riveted into the panel. The trays all mount to
to that, and it was easy to do. I don't have any on top or bottom.
But, what I do also have is that since the stack fits through the
subpanel, I have some .063 (or maybe it's .125, but doesn't matter)
angle that outlines the rectangular hole where the radios that need
to fit through the subpanel go. The hole is cut so that the lower
most item (transponder) has just a tiny clearance to that lower
angle on the subpanel. Then I stuffed in a rubber spacer, and
have it zip tied down. It is plenty stiff to support itself
in flight without being fastened to the subpanel solidly, but it's
nice to take a little load off by allowing it to rest there, and
still tie it down so it can't flex up too far too.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> How are people holding in their radio stack(s)? I have used RadioRax in the
> past, but they are pretty expensive. I assumed just normal aluminum angle
> should do the trick, although would require a little bit more work in
> alignment. Also, if angle, what size is being used, and is it just being
> used on the sides, or also on the top and bottom (or just on the top and
> bottom, for individual radios like yours, Russ)?
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 5:45 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: FW: RV10-List: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG
>
> Hope this helps. DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> Russ Daves #044
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 11:10 PM
> Subject: RE: FW: RV10-List: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright"
>> <armywrights@adelphia.net>
>>
>> Could you or others please post some pictures of the backs of your panels
>> so
>> I can start getting a mental image of possibilities?
>>
>> Rob
>>
>> #392 Wings
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility |
Jesse,
Yes, that's the position. Alternator is a 20 amp auxiliary unit
(http://www.bandc.biz/sd20desc.html) that goes on the vacuum pad (all
electric plane). Interference is between the corner of the filter
adapter/spacer closest to the vacuum pad and one of the case screw
bosses on the alternator. The folks at B&C have a "clocking adapter"
that they believe solves the interference problem by rotating the
alternator 45 degrees and moving it aft by 5/8". They are also looking
at changing one bolt for a cap head screw on the oil filter adapter.
They are going to try the combo tomorrow and if all goes well will let
me know.
Another builder (Ed in Oregon) also reported this to them about 2 weeks
ago. Apparently B&C understood that he was using a 2.5" spacer instead
of the 1.4" and based on that it was proclaimed a "no go" by B&C. Based
on updated info on the size of the spacer they are certain that it will
be a simple fix. Standby for confirmation of the simplicity...
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 11:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
Is yours supposed to be in this position? Where is the alternator
supposed to go?
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 12:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
Heads up! There is a physical incompatibility between the B&C SD-20
auxiliary alternator (mounts on vacuum pump pad) and the oil filter
adapters that puts the filter in the 10 o'clock position. If your
electrical system is depending on the SD-20 you will be precluded from
using the angled oil filter adapter. After discussion with B&C I
investigated the possibility of moving the SD-20 to the hydraulic pump
pad but total length of the alternator + hydraulic pump adapter
precludes the SD-20 from being mounted there.
Also, if you go with one of the angled oil filter adapters (at least the
one from B&C) you need the 1.4" spacer to clear the engine mount cross
member.
Bob #40105
--
6/14/2006
--
6/14/2006
Message 9
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| Subject: | Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Dick,
It appears that your panel is a solid piece to get more vertical height
instead of the stock version attached to the cross member. Can you
confirm? If so, what is the thickness? Does it simply have the bottom
edge bent back for stiffening?
Thanks.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Sipp
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 12:13 AM
Subject: Re: FW: RV10-List: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 12:10 AM
Subject: RE: FW: RV10-List: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright"
> <armywrights@adelphia.net>
>
> Could you or others please post some pictures of the backs of your
panels
> so
> I can start getting a mental image of possibilities?
>
> Rob
>
> #392 Wings
Rob,
Tim's web site has lots of pictures that show how he finished the back
side
of the panel.
I'll throw out a few more when I get all of the components that go back
there installed.
There is a lot of stuff that can or should go in that area, like
electronic
ignition boxes, voltage regulators, altitude encoders attitude reference
sensor etc. Some of these components don't necessarily have to go there
but
it is convenient.
I'm not sure if I am following the best sequence but I am trying to at
least
plan for and preliminarily mount everything while the panel & sub
structure
is on the airplane without the top skin. The intent is to then remove
most
of the components, rivet the top skin to the ribs per the plans,
permanently
mount the components on a bench and then late in the process (after
cabin
top is fitted) permanently install that structure. The Aertronics (and
probably other shops) cable connector system makes this easier to do.
The
instrument panel itself can still be removed if necessary as per Van's
plans.
Dick
40065
Message 10
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| Subject: | Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility |
I think mine has the 2.5=94 extension. Based on your calculations, will
that
be a clearance issue with the firewall or engine mount?
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US
SSA)
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
Jesse,
Yes, that=92s the position. Alternator is a 20 amp auxiliary unit
(HYPERLINK
"http://www.bandc.biz/sd20desc.html"http://www.bandc.biz/sd20desc.html)
that
goes on the vacuum pad (all electric plane). Interference is between
the
corner of the filter adapter/spacer closest to the vacuum pad and one of
the
case screw bosses on the alternator. The folks at B&C have a
=93clocking
adapter=94 that they believe solves the interference problem by rotating
the
alternator 45 degrees and moving it aft by 5/8=94. They are also
looking at
changing one bolt for a cap head screw on the oil filter adapter. They
are
going to try the combo tomorrow and if all goes well will let me know.
Another builder (Ed in Oregon) also reported this to them about 2 weeks
ago.
Apparently B&C understood that he was using a 2.5=94 spacer instead of
the
1.4=94 and based on that it was proclaimed a =93no go=94 by B&C. Based
on updated
info on the size of the spacer they are certain that it will be a simple
fix. Standby for confirmation of the simplicity=85
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 11:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
Is yours supposed to be in this position? Where is the alternator
supposed
to go?
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US
SSA)
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 12:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
Heads up! There is a physical incompatibility between the B&C SD-20
auxiliary alternator (mounts on vacuum pump pad) and the oil filter
adapters
that puts the filter in the 10 o=92clock position. If your electrical
system
is depending on the SD-20 you will be precluded from using the angled
oil
filter adapter. After discussion with B&C I investigated the
possibility of
moving the SD-20 to the hydraulic pump pad but total length of the
alternator + hydraulic pump adapter precludes the SD-20 from being
mounted
there.
Also, if you go with one of the angled oil filter adapters (at least the
one
from B&C) you need the 1.4=94 spacer to clear the engine mount cross
member.
Bob #40105
--
6/14/2006
--
6/14/2006
--
--
Message 11
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| Subject: | Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility |
Jesse,
Based on actual installation (not calculations) the 1.4" spacer is the
minimum needed to clear the diagonal cross member on the engine mount.
I'll take a look tonight and let you know if another inch will cause
problems.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 11:22 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
I think mine has the 2.5" extension. Based on your calculations, will
that be a clearance issue with the firewall or engine mount?
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
Jesse,
Yes, that's the position. Alternator is a 20 amp auxiliary unit
(http://www.bandc.biz/sd20desc.html) that goes on the vacuum pad (all
electric plane). Interference is between the corner of the filter
adapter/spacer closest to the vacuum pad and one of the case screw
bosses on the alternator. The folks at B&C have a "clocking adapter"
that they believe solves the interference problem by rotating the
alternator 45 degrees and moving it aft by 5/8". They are also looking
at changing one bolt for a cap head screw on the oil filter adapter.
They are going to try the combo tomorrow and if all goes well will let
me know.
Another builder (Ed in Oregon) also reported this to them about 2 weeks
ago. Apparently B&C understood that he was using a 2.5" spacer instead
of the 1.4" and based on that it was proclaimed a "no go" by B&C. Based
on updated info on the size of the spacer they are certain that it will
be a simple fix. Standby for confirmation of the simplicity...
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 11:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
Is yours supposed to be in this position? Where is the alternator
supposed to go?
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 12:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
Heads up! There is a physical incompatibility between the B&C SD-20
auxiliary alternator (mounts on vacuum pump pad) and the oil filter
adapters that puts the filter in the 10 o'clock position. If your
electrical system is depending on the SD-20 you will be precluded from
using the angled oil filter adapter. After discussion with B&C I
investigated the possibility of moving the SD-20 to the hydraulic pump
pad but total length of the alternator + hydraulic pump adapter
precludes the SD-20 from being mounted there.
Also, if you go with one of the angled oil filter adapters (at least the
one from B&C) you need the 1.4" spacer to clear the engine mount cross
member.
Bob #40105
--
6/14/2006
--
6/14/2006
--
6/16/2006
--
6/16/2006
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility |
I looked as some older pictures of Van's prototype and it looks like
they have the straight horizontal style adaptor. That gets pretty tight
to the firewall.
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 1:04 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
Jesse,
Based on actual installation (not calculations) the 1.4" spacer is the
minimum needed to clear the diagonal cross member on the engine mount.
I'll take a look tonight and let you know if another inch will cause
problems.
Bob
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 11:22 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
I think mine has the 2.5" extension. Based on your calculations, will
that be a clearance issue with the firewall or engine mount?
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
Jesse,
Yes, that's the position. Alternator is a 20 amp auxiliary unit
(http://www.bandc.biz/sd20desc.html) that goes on the vacuum pad (all
electric plane). Interference is between the corner of the filter
adapter/spacer closest to the vacuum pad and one of the case screw
bosses on the alternator. The folks at B&C have a "clocking adapter"
that they believe solves the interference problem by rotating the
alternator 45 degrees and moving it aft by 5/8". They are also looking
at changing one bolt for a cap head screw on the oil filter adapter.
They are going to try the combo tomorrow and if all goes well will let
me know.
Another builder (Ed in Oregon) also reported this to them about 2 weeks
ago. Apparently B&C understood that he was using a 2.5" spacer instead
of the 1.4" and based on that it was proclaimed a "no go" by B&C. Based
on updated info on the size of the spacer they are certain that it will
be a simple fix. Standby for confirmation of the simplicity...
Bob
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 11:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
Is yours supposed to be in this position? Where is the alternator
supposed to go?
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 12:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
Heads up! There is a physical incompatibility between the B&C SD-20
auxiliary alternator (mounts on vacuum pump pad) and the oil filter
adapters that puts the filter in the 10 o'clock position. If your
electrical system is depending on the SD-20 you will be precluded from
using the angled oil filter adapter. After discussion with B&C I
investigated the possibility of moving the SD-20 to the hydraulic pump
pad but total length of the alternator + hydraulic pump adapter
precludes the SD-20 from being mounted there.
Also, if you go with one of the angled oil filter adapters (at least the
one from B&C) you need the 1.4" spacer to clear the engine mount cross
member.
Bob #40105
--
6/14/2006
--
6/14/2006
--
6/16/2006
--
6/16/2006
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Actually, I just have the horizontal for now, and had the intention of
possibly adding a remote mount firewall mount in the future.
As it turns out, I don't know that I'll bother. Yes, the filter comes
toward the rear a ways, but it fits right in that firewall cutout
box. Using a 1" socket on a stubby wrench, it's been do-able. Not
perfect, but do-able.
I put a cut-down tupperware container under the filter, and it drips
into that, no drips on the engine at all. I fear that with a vertical
mount, I'd be dripping things down the filter mount when pulling the
filter. I like the remote mounts, when you can remove them
upside down...perfect for no mess. But, as I said, the horizontal
one hasn't been a problem....and I myself am surprised.
Also, I have used the Champion filter, the Kelley Aerospace filter,
and now the Tempest filter, and all work fine, even though
they aren't of the same lengths.
I just bought, for $5, one of the rounded oil filter twisting
pliers. (not the band type, but 2 big curved jaws) Got it
from Harbor Freight on sale. I'm going to see if that's any
easier than the stubby socket for removal, when you don't
care about torque values. I personally don't use a torque
wrench on the filter, and never have, on cars or planes.
After doing literally dozens of changes, I've never had a
seep out of any of them. The tempest filters supposedly
have a better seal too. So unless you're planning to torque
your filters with a torque wrench, I'm not sure if I'm seeing any
reason to go with any adapter other than the cheap horizontal...and
if I were going to get away from that one, I'd go remote mount
and make it really clean.
When someone gets the angled adapter going from B&C, I'd like
to hear how your changing experience is though. If it's great,
it would be nice to know.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> I looked as some older pictures of Vans prototype and it looks like
> they have the straight horizontal style adaptor. That gets pretty tight
> to the firewall.
>
>
>
> TDT
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility |
The horizontal one gets very tight with the firewall. In fact, without
that
box, I think it would not even fit, and certainly not be removeable,
which
would kind of defeat the purpose. The angled one will be much easier to
change, and from my research it sounds like punching a hole in the
filter,
especially the angled one, will allow air in and allow the oil in the
filter
to run out before removing it. There will still be some left, but not
as
much as with the horizontal one. Remote would be nice, but that adds
more
complexity as well.
As far as reports on how it works, we hopefully will have some in about
a
month. If we aren=92t doing an oil change by then, we will be way
behind
schedule (knock on wood).
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 1:23 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
I looked as some older pictures of Van=92s prototype and it looks like
they
have the straight horizontal style adaptor. That gets pretty tight to
the
firewall.
TDT
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US
SSA)
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 1:04 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
Jesse,
Based on actual installation (not calculations) the 1.4=94 spacer is the
minimum needed to clear the diagonal cross member on the engine mount.
I=92ll
take a look tonight and let you know if another inch will cause
problems.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 11:22 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
I think mine has the 2.5=94 extension. Based on your calculations, will
that
be a clearance issue with the firewall or engine mount?
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US
SSA)
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
Jesse,
Yes, that=92s the position. Alternator is a 20 amp auxiliary unit
(HYPERLINK
"http://www.bandc.biz/sd20desc.html"http://www.bandc.biz/sd20desc.html)
that
goes on the vacuum pad (all electric plane). Interference is between
the
corner of the filter adapter/spacer closest to the vacuum pad and one of
the
case screw bosses on the alternator. The folks at B&C have a
=93clocking
adapter=94 that they believe solves the interference problem by rotating
the
alternator 45 degrees and moving it aft by 5/8=94. They are also
looking at
changing one bolt for a cap head screw on the oil filter adapter. They
are
going to try the combo tomorrow and if all goes well will let me know.
Another builder (Ed in Oregon) also reported this to them about 2 weeks
ago.
Apparently B&C understood that he was using a 2.5=94 spacer instead of
the
1.4=94 and based on that it was proclaimed a =93no go=94 by B&C. Based
on updated
info on the size of the spacer they are certain that it will be a simple
fix. Standby for confirmation of the simplicity=85
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 11:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
Is yours supposed to be in this position? Where is the alternator
supposed
to go?
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US
SSA)
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 12:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
Heads up! There is a physical incompatibility between the B&C SD-20
auxiliary alternator (mounts on vacuum pump pad) and the oil filter
adapters
that puts the filter in the 10 o=92clock position. If your electrical
system
is depending on the SD-20 you will be precluded from using the angled
oil
filter adapter. After discussion with B&C I investigated the
possibility of
moving the SD-20 to the hydraulic pump pad but total length of the
alternator + hydraulic pump adapter precludes the SD-20 from being
mounted
there.
Also, if you go with one of the angled oil filter adapters (at least the
one
from B&C) you need the 1.4=94 spacer to clear the engine mount cross
member.
Bob #40105
--
6/14/2006
--
6/14/2006
--
6/16/2006
--
6/16/2006
--
--
Message 15
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| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
It appears the the 2.5" spacer could also be used (but not in conjunctio with an
SD-20). That puts the filter about an inch forward of the firewall. The oil
pressure hose feeding the 3 port manifold is close but shouldn't be an issue
because it's secured with adell clamps. 1.4" is probably the best choice though
- with the 11 o'clock version of the filter adapter it puts the filter about
5/8" aft of the diagonal cross member on the engine mount.
------Original Message------
From: Bob Condrey
ReplyTo: RV-10 List
Sent: Jun 16, 2006 12:04 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
Jesse,
Based on actual installation (not calculations) the 1.4 spacer is the minimum needed
to clear the diagonal cross member on the engine mount. Ill take a look
tonight and let you know if another inch will cause problems.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 11:22 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
I think mine has the 2.5 extension. Based on your calculations, will that be a
clearance issue with the firewall or engine mount?
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
Jesse,
Yes, thats the position. Alternator is a 20 amp auxiliary unit (http://www.bandc.biz/sd20desc.html) that goes on the vacuum pad (all electric plane). Interference is between the corner of the filter adapter/spacer closest to the vacuum pad and one of the case screw bosses on the alternator. The folks at B&C have a clocking adapter that they believe solves the interference problem by rotating the alternator 45 degrees
------Original Message Truncated------
Bob
--------------------------
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
I have the oil filter adapter which is mounted at the 10 o'clock
position when viewed from the back of the engine. It is the ECI oil
adapter with the 1.4" spacer and I must say I love it. When the oil is
warm, I simply put a bucket on the floor with a hose connected up to my
quick drain fitting on the sump and let it drain overnight with the oil
dip stick removed. When I come out to finish it the next day and remove
the oil filter, it is completely empty and there isn't a drop of oil
that you could spill anywhere because the filter and oil adapter are
fully drained just by gravity. This makes for a very clean oil change
with no mess.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
N519RV (36 hours) Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 12:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Actually, I just have the horizontal for now, and had the intention of
possibly adding a remote mount firewall mount in the future.
As it turns out, I don't know that I'll bother. Yes, the filter comes
toward the rear a ways, but it fits right in that firewall cutout
box. Using a 1" socket on a stubby wrench, it's been do-able. Not
perfect, but do-able.
I put a cut-down tupperware container under the filter, and it drips
into that, no drips on the engine at all. I fear that with a vertical
mount, I'd be dripping things down the filter mount when pulling the
filter. I like the remote mounts, when you can remove them
upside down...perfect for no mess. But, as I said, the horizontal
one hasn't been a problem....and I myself am surprised.
Also, I have used the Champion filter, the Kelley Aerospace filter,
and now the Tempest filter, and all work fine, even though
they aren't of the same lengths.
I just bought, for $5, one of the rounded oil filter twisting
pliers. (not the band type, but 2 big curved jaws) Got it
from Harbor Freight on sale. I'm going to see if that's any
easier than the stubby socket for removal, when you don't
care about torque values. I personally don't use a torque
wrench on the filter, and never have, on cars or planes.
After doing literally dozens of changes, I've never had a
seep out of any of them. The tempest filters supposedly
have a better seal too. So unless you're planning to torque
your filters with a torque wrench, I'm not sure if I'm seeing any
reason to go with any adapter other than the cheap horizontal...and
if I were going to get away from that one, I'd go remote mount
and make it really clean.
When someone gets the angled adapter going from B&C, I'd like
to hear how your changing experience is though. If it's great,
it would be nice to know.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> I looked as some older pictures of Van's prototype and it looks like
> they have the straight horizontal style adaptor. That gets pretty
tight
> to the firewall.
>
>
>
> TDT
>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That's great that you get a complete drain. Very nice.
I usually do my change all in one sitting, while hot,
so I wouldn't be able to drain that long, but it's a great
way to go if you can. I don't remove my lower cowl
either, unless there is something else to do at that
time.
Ray and Bob, I plan to be at the Boone Fly-in tomorrow
if the weather allows. Depending on a birthday party
schedule, and what we do with kids, it may be that I'm
only there early, and am gone by 10:30 or 11am, but
as long as there isn't anything weather wise that
is too bad, I'll be there.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
>
> I have the oil filter adapter which is mounted at the 10 o'clock
> position when viewed from the back of the engine. It is the ECI oil
> adapter with the 1.4" spacer and I must say I love it. When the oil is
> warm, I simply put a bucket on the floor with a hose connected up to my
> quick drain fitting on the sump and let it drain overnight with the oil
> dip stick removed. When I come out to finish it the next day and remove
> the oil filter, it is completely empty and there isn't a drop of oil
> that you could spill anywhere because the filter and oil adapter are
> fully drained just by gravity. This makes for a very clean oil change
> with no mess.
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> N519RV (36 hours) Flying
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 12:58 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Actually, I just have the horizontal for now, and had the intention of
> possibly adding a remote mount firewall mount in the future.
> As it turns out, I don't know that I'll bother. Yes, the filter comes
> toward the rear a ways, but it fits right in that firewall cutout
> box. Using a 1" socket on a stubby wrench, it's been do-able. Not
> perfect, but do-able.
>
> I put a cut-down tupperware container under the filter, and it drips
> into that, no drips on the engine at all. I fear that with a vertical
> mount, I'd be dripping things down the filter mount when pulling the
> filter. I like the remote mounts, when you can remove them
> upside down...perfect for no mess. But, as I said, the horizontal
> one hasn't been a problem....and I myself am surprised.
> Also, I have used the Champion filter, the Kelley Aerospace filter,
> and now the Tempest filter, and all work fine, even though
> they aren't of the same lengths.
>
> I just bought, for $5, one of the rounded oil filter twisting
> pliers. (not the band type, but 2 big curved jaws) Got it
> from Harbor Freight on sale. I'm going to see if that's any
> easier than the stubby socket for removal, when you don't
> care about torque values. I personally don't use a torque
> wrench on the filter, and never have, on cars or planes.
> After doing literally dozens of changes, I've never had a
> seep out of any of them. The tempest filters supposedly
> have a better seal too. So unless you're planning to torque
> your filters with a torque wrench, I'm not sure if I'm seeing any
> reason to go with any adapter other than the cheap horizontal...and
> if I were going to get away from that one, I'd go remote mount
> and make it really clean.
>
> When someone gets the angled adapter going from B&C, I'd like
> to hear how your changing experience is though. If it's great,
> it would be nice to know.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>> I looked as some older pictures of Van's prototype and it looks like
>> they have the straight horizontal style adaptor. That gets pretty
> tight
>> to the firewall.
>>
>>
>>
>> TDT
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Filter Adapter Incompatibility |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Tim,
Hopefully I'll see you there. Right now plans are to fly over with a friend in
an RV-6 assuming the weather is OK. We'll probably get there around 10:30 or
so due to a Young Eagles event in the AM.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=41486#41486
Message 19
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--> RV10-List message posted by: David Maib <dmaib@mac.com>
I have had a couple of email conversations with SafeAir and they
assure me that the wings at the QB stage are an excellent time to
install the tanks.
David Maib
do not archive
On Jun 15, 2006, at 9:03 PM, gorejr@bellsouth.net wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: <gorejr@bellsouth.net>
I am building a quickbuild RV-10 and want the SafeAir1 extra fuel
tanks as I
fly to Central America yearly. Will these easily adapt to the
quickbuild wings
and tanks? I have only received the tail kit. Just trying to plan ahead.
Thanks Jim
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
You are correct Bob. The panel is an exact duplicate of the two piece
assemble from Vans but made out of a single piece of metal. The bottom has
a 3/4" flange bent forward. It is no taller, just one piece. Same
thickness as the original. The kit cross member attachment to the fuselage
skin is replaced by a small piece of 3/4 angle behind the panel. When the
radio racks are anchored at the panel and sub-panel the assemble becomes
very rigid.
Dick
40065
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 10:23 AM
Subject: RE: FW: RV10-List: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Dick,
>
> It appears that your panel is a solid piece to get more vertical height
> instead of the stock version attached to the cross member. Can you
> confirm? If so, what is the thickness? Does it simply have the bottom
> edge bent back for stiffening?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Sipp
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 12:13 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: FW: RV10-List: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 12:10 AM
> Subject: RE: FW: RV10-List: Panel Design was Digiflight IIVSVG
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright"
>> <armywrights@adelphia.net>
>>
>> Could you or others please post some pictures of the backs of your
> panels
>> so
>> I can start getting a mental image of possibilities?
>>
>> Rob
>>
>> #392 Wings
>
> Rob,
>
> Tim's web site has lots of pictures that show how he finished the back
> side
> of the panel.
>
> I'll throw out a few more when I get all of the components that go back
> there installed.
>
> There is a lot of stuff that can or should go in that area, like
> electronic
> ignition boxes, voltage regulators, altitude encoders attitude reference
>
> sensor etc. Some of these components don't necessarily have to go there
> but
> it is convenient.
>
> I'm not sure if I am following the best sequence but I am trying to at
> least
> plan for and preliminarily mount everything while the panel & sub
> structure
> is on the airplane without the top skin. The intent is to then remove
> most
> of the components, rivet the top skin to the ribs per the plans,
> permanently
> mount the components on a bench and then late in the process (after
> cabin
> top is fitted) permanently install that structure. The Aertronics (and
> probably other shops) cable connector system makes this easier to do.
> The
> instrument panel itself can still be removed if necessary as per Van's
> plans.
>
> Dick
> 40065
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | RV10 Window Junction Cracks - Any Advise? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: L Aune <lcaune@cablelan.net>
Rick
I have found Aviall to be a good supplier for PRC Proseal
Len
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