Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:00 AM - Front Floor Pan (Tom Deutsch)
2. 06:39 AM - Re: Blue Mountain Autopilot install in an RV-10 (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
3. 06:42 AM - Re: Front Floor Pan (JSMcGrew@AOL.COM)
4. 07:52 AM - Re: Blue Mountain Autopilot install in an RV-10 (Conti, Rick)
5. 07:53 AM - Getting the doors to fit (John Testement)
6. 09:19 AM - Re: Getting the doors to fit (Rob Kermanj)
7. 09:19 AM - Re: Blue Mountain Autopilot install in an RV-10 (Jesse Saint)
8. 09:19 AM - Re: Getting the doors to fit (Bill DeRouchey)
9. 08:45 PM - Re: Milestone Hit (John Jessen)
10. 08:45 PM - RV 10 Motor Mount (ddddsp1@juno.com)
11. 08:45 PM - Re: Front Floor Pan (Chris , Susie Darcy)
12. 09:08 PM - Re: Front Floor Pan (Evan and Megan Johnson)
13. 09:27 PM - Re: Front Floor Pan (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tom Deutsch" <deutscht@rhwhotels.com>
Is it possible to remove the front floor covers without removing the
weld mounts for the landing gear on a QB fuse? Tim Olson I noticed your
photos show you removed for insulation. Can you share how? Anyone else
have ideas?
Tom Deutsch
Office 913 451-1222
Fax 913 451-6493
Cell 913 908-7752
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain Autopilot install in an RV-10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: JSMcGrew@aol.com
I didn't specifically ask BMA for any help, but I found nothing from their
install manual or on their website that helped with locating these. There are
a few RV-7s that used them and I found some pictures posted in various places
on the internet. I basically designed the mounting brackets myself. The
position of the elevator servo is the same place the trutrak autopilot would go
(that bracket is included in the RV-10 kit from Van's), I just had to make a
completely different bracket due to the servo size.
-Jim
In a message dated 6/20/2006 2:50:25 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
capsteve@adelphia.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
Jim, did bma have any info on the servo install or did you have to cook it
up yourself? I'm also going the blue mountain route, Bma sport g4,
w/autopilot, so i'm very interested in your findings.
Steve dinieri
40205
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Front Floor Pan |
--> RV10-List message posted by: JSMcGrew@aol.com
On my QB fuse, I had to take the landing gear mounts out in order to get the
front floors in and out. I don't see any way around it. My mounts were only
temporarily bolted in with 4 bolts.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/20/2006 7:05:08 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
deutscht@rhwhotels.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tom Deutsch" <deutscht@rhwhotels.com>
Is it possible to remove the front floor covers without removing the
weld mounts for the landing gear on a QB fuse? Tim Olson I noticed your
photos show you removed for insulation. Can you share how? Anyone else
have ideas?
Tom Deutsch
Office 913 451-1222
Fax 913 451-6493
Cell 913 908-7752
Message 4
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| Subject: | Blue Mountain Autopilot install in an RV-10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
BMA servo mounting. Jeremy has a photo of the elevator servo mounting
on his web site. It is the right hand photo in the top row. The
aileron servo (unfortunately no photo) is mounted at the end of the
right wing. I made a stiffener for the outboard rib and mounted the
servo. As luck would have it, the aileron connecting rod sold by Van's
is a perfect length for attachment to the bellcrank. Some may be
concerned about that much weight mounted that far out on a cantilever.
I don't think (hope) it will be an issue, but the right wing was not
selected randomly. It will offset some of the pilot's weight (seated
left of center) when flying alone.
DIFFERENT SUBJECT: someone recommended the paint shop at Lantana FL. I
stopped there Friday looking for hangar space. I found out the paint
shop has been closed since the last hurricane and is still waiting for
approval to re-open.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 9:34 AM
--> RV10-List message posted by: JSMcGrew@aol.com
I didn't specifically ask BMA for any help, but I found nothing from
their
install manual or on their website that helped with locating these.
There are
a few RV-7s that used them and I found some pictures posted in various
places
on the internet. I basically designed the mounting brackets myself. The
position of the elevator servo is the same place the trutrak autopilot
would go
(that bracket is included in the RV-10 kit from Van's), I just had to
make a
completely different bracket due to the servo size.
-Jim
In a message dated 6/20/2006 2:50:25 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
capsteve@adelphia.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri"
<capsteve@adelphia.net>
Jim, did bma have any info on the servo install or did you have to cook
it
up yourself? I'm also going the blue mountain route, Bma sport g4,
w/autopilot, so i'm very interested in your findings.
Steve dinieri
40205
Message 5
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| Subject: | Getting the doors to fit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
I have managed to get the right door to fit perfectly but I had to file the
bottom edge of the cabin top quite a bit. For the left and right bottom
corners to fit flush, the bottom middle of the door is inset about 1/16th -
1/8th". I plan to put a layer of fiberglass/filler on the door panel to get
it back flush with the cabin. This door falls right into place, flush around
all the other edges.
On the left door the problem is worse. When the middle bottom and front
corner of the door are flush or slightly inset, the rear bottom corner and
about 5" of the rear edge are proud by about 1/8-3/16" - too much to sand
down. The door seems to have warped some since the first fitting & gluing,
or from the window gluing. Also the door does not fall down into the closed
position - I have to push it in the final inch (the upper edges are flush).
Has anyone else had this problem? Has anyone tried to re-shape the door
bottom (like with a heat gun)? Any suggestions?
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
QB final door fitting and windscreen attach
--
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Getting the doors to fit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rob Kermanj" <flysrv10@gmail.com>
My doors seem to fit fairly well except for the bottom. I most likely
would not try a heat gun and will live with the way things are. One
good thing is that the gap on the bottom is less offensive since it is
hidden viewing at a person's normal hight.
See if the door latch hardware is not forcing the door.
On 6/20/06, John Testement <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
>
> I have managed to get the right door to fit perfectly but I had to file the
> bottom edge of the cabin top quite a bit. For the left and right bottom
> corners to fit flush, the bottom middle of the door is inset about 1/16th -
> 1/8th". I plan to put a layer of fiberglass/filler on the door panel to get
> it back flush with the cabin. This door falls right into place, flush around
> all the other edges.
>
> On the left door the problem is worse. When the middle bottom and front
> corner of the door are flush or slightly inset, the rear bottom corner and
> about 5" of the rear edge are proud by about 1/8-3/16" - too much to sand
> down. The door seems to have warped some since the first fitting & gluing,
> or from the window gluing. Also the door does not fall down into the closed
> position - I have to push it in the final inch (the upper edges are flush).
>
> Has anyone else had this problem? Has anyone tried to re-shape the door
> bottom (like with a heat gun)? Any suggestions?
>
> John Testement
> HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Richmond, VA
> QB final door fitting and windscreen attach
>
>
> --
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Blue Mountain Autopilot install in an RV-10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
As far as the weight out there, I can't imagine it would make that much
difference in comparison to uneven fuel burning, which is quite common.
That's what aileron trim and rudder trim are for.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 10:50 AM
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@boeing.com>
BMA servo mounting. Jeremy has a photo of the elevator servo mounting
on his web site. It is the right hand photo in the top row. The
aileron servo (unfortunately no photo) is mounted at the end of the
right wing. I made a stiffener for the outboard rib and mounted the
servo. As luck would have it, the aileron connecting rod sold by Van's
is a perfect length for attachment to the bellcrank. Some may be
concerned about that much weight mounted that far out on a cantilever.
I don't think (hope) it will be an issue, but the right wing was not
selected randomly. It will offset some of the pilot's weight (seated
left of center) when flying alone.
DIFFERENT SUBJECT: someone recommended the paint shop at Lantana FL. I
stopped there Friday looking for hangar space. I found out the paint
shop has been closed since the last hurricane and is still waiting for
approval to re-open.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 9:34 AM
--> RV10-List message posted by: JSMcGrew@aol.com
I didn't specifically ask BMA for any help, but I found nothing from
their
install manual or on their website that helped with locating these.
There are
a few RV-7s that used them and I found some pictures posted in various
places
on the internet. I basically designed the mounting brackets myself. The
position of the elevator servo is the same place the trutrak autopilot
would go
(that bracket is included in the RV-10 kit from Van's), I just had to
make a
completely different bracket due to the servo size.
-Jim
In a message dated 6/20/2006 2:50:25 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
capsteve@adelphia.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri"
<capsteve@adelphia.net>
Jim, did bma have any info on the servo install or did you have to cook
it
up yourself? I'm also going the blue mountain route, Bma sport g4,
w/autopilot, so i'm very interested in your findings.
Steve dinieri
40205
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
--
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Getting the doors to fit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Bill DeRouchey <billderou@yahoo.com>
John-
At this point I would check the fit with the hinges. Remove the hinges and try
the door fit again. Perhaps you could pull the aft corner in by moving it up
and in a bit. The max distance the door mechanism will pull in the door is 7/16"
and the seal is guaranteed to move it out farther than it is now. If this helps
(or at least split the differrence) the holes in the upper door are easy
to plug with flox.
It would be worth stopping at this point and solving the problem. Once it is all
buttoned up the door will be a royal pain to close from the inside. You would
probably need to add a handle inside near the aft corner.
My streaching my imagination I still don't know how the doors could warp, unless
you tried to form the doors when the cabin was removed from the fuselage. Some
of my friends are trying to do this because their panel order has been delayed
and they are poking around trying to complete something.
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, s/n 40029
RV-10 checkout at Vans in one hour, fly in July.
John Testement <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com> wrote: --> RV10-List message posted by:
"John Testement"
I have managed to get the right door to fit perfectly but I had to file the
bottom edge of the cabin top quite a bit. For the left and right bottom
corners to fit flush, the bottom middle of the door is inset about 1/16th -
1/8th". I plan to put a layer of fiberglass/filler on the door panel to get
it back flush with the cabin. This door falls right into place, flush around
all the other edges.
On the left door the problem is worse. When the middle bottom and front
corner of the door are flush or slightly inset, the rear bottom corner and
about 5" of the rear edge are proud by about 1/8-3/16" - too much to sand
down. The door seems to have warped some since the first fitting & gluing,
or from the window gluing. Also the door does not fall down into the closed
position - I have to push it in the final inch (the upper edges are flush).
Has anyone else had this problem? Has anyone tried to re-shape the door
bottom (like with a heat gun)? Any suggestions?
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
QB final door fitting and windscreen attach
--
Message 9
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
You are correct. I heard the same, emailed direct from the perpetrator.
Well, done, Dude! Let the fun begin!
John Jessen
do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | RV 10 Motor Mount |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "ddddsp1@juno.com" <ddddsp1@juno.com>
Just curious if anyone has had any trouble lining up the Motor Mount holes with
the fuse firewall. After measuring the firewall holes and then the mount they
do not appear to be close on the top holes at all. Plus the mount brackets
do not sit FLUSH to the firewall and one is 1/8 inch from touching the firewall.
Hope this is not normal...........I can accept fiberglass being off some but
this seems too important to fudge.
Thanks,
Dean
40449
________________________________________________________________________
Try Juno Platinum for Free! Then, only $9.95/month!
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Front Floor Pan |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
No and its a pain ...took me 2 days as they must have put some of the bolts
in with a hammer!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 10:54 PM
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tom Deutsch" <deutscht@rhwhotels.com>
>
> Is it possible to remove the front floor covers without removing the
> weld mounts for the landing gear on a QB fuse? Tim Olson I noticed your
> photos show you removed for insulation. Can you share how? Anyone else
> have ideas?
>
>
> Tom Deutsch
>
>
> Office 913 451-1222
>
> Fax 913 451-6493
>
> Cell 913 908-7752
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Front Floor Pan |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
It sure doesn't look like it to me. I have been held up because of this. I
had some temporary landing gear built with some pipe and some cheapie
wheelbarrow tires. They are shorter than the real thing so the fuse will sit
nice and low and I will still be able to roll it around the shop. I was
hoping to put them on for easy access to the forward fuselage while I
finished it up. After looking at it for a bit I realized I could not put in
the trunions until I found a willing bucking bar man to go inside the
forward fuse to finish up the transition from the sides to the bottom of the
airplane...the part you have to prebend. OK done. I have to say it fits
perfectly....really great engineering. Now I can snap down those floors, put
in the landing gear trunions and get the whole works off of the sawhorses
down to a reasonable working height. Cheers..
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 5:54 AM
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tom Deutsch" <deutscht@rhwhotels.com>
>
> Is it possible to remove the front floor covers without removing the
> weld mounts for the landing gear on a QB fuse? Tim Olson I noticed your
> photos show you removed for insulation. Can you share how? Anyone else
> have ideas?
>
>
> Tom Deutsch
>
>
> Office 913 451-1222
>
> Fax 913 451-6493
>
> Cell 913 908-7752
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Front Floor Pan |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I did remove mine, but I also removed the gear mounts. Then insulated,
then re-installed.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Tom Deutsch wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tom Deutsch" <deutscht@rhwhotels.com>
>
> Is it possible to remove the front floor covers without removing the
> weld mounts for the landing gear on a QB fuse? Tim Olson I noticed your
> photos show you removed for insulation. Can you share how? Anyone else
> have ideas?
>
>
>
> Tom Deutsch
>
>
>
> Office 913 451-1222
>
> Fax 913 451-6493
>
> Cell 913 908-7752
>
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