Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:01 AM - Re: IO-540 crate size (Murray Randall)
2. 05:12 AM - Re: seats (Wayne Edgerton)
3. 06:44 AM - Re: Bob's Ground Power Plug button (W. Curtis)
4. 07:19 AM - Re: Re: Bob's Ground Power Plug button (DOUGPFLYRV@AOL.COM)
5. 07:52 AM - N415EC Airworthy! (Jesse Saint)
6. 08:18 AM - FW: TruTrak Pitch Servo Quality (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
7. 09:14 AM - Re: N415EC Airworthy! (Rene Felker)
8. 09:17 AM - Re: Lightspeed with Keyswitch and 1 Mag Wiring (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
9. 10:59 AM - Re: Lightspeed with Keyswitch and 1 Mag Wiring (Tim Olson)
10. 12:47 PM - Re: seats (Rick)
11. 01:58 PM - Re: Lightspeed with Keyswitch and 1 Mag Wiring (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
12. 05:59 PM - IO-540 Engine Question ()
13. 06:13 PM - Re: IO-540 Engine Question (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
14. 06:31 PM - Re: IO-540 Engine Question (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
15. 07:28 PM - Re: Re: IO-540 Engine Question ()
16. 07:28 PM - Brian Bollaert (Tim Olson)
17. 08:40 PM - Here I go again - console finished (Deems Davis)
18. 08:40 PM - Flap position sensor (Richard Sipp)
19. 10:06 PM - Re: IO-540 Engine Question (linn Walters)
20. 10:30 PM - N415EC Flying! (Jesse Saint)
21. 10:41 PM - Re: Lightspeed with Keyswitch and 1 Mag Wiring (Kelly McMullen)
22. 10:55 PM - Re: Here I go again - console finished (John Dunne)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: IO-540 crate size |
Lycoming shipped me a "container" for SB 566 crankshaft
replacement....41.5" X 44" X 33" high for a IO540 V4A5 in a Maule
Message 2
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I purchase my seats from Classic Aero and they really turned out great.
I've attached a few photos of them for those interested. They cost me
about $3600. They delivered as scheduled, as compared to many of the
vendors I'm dealing with now who seem to think that meeting a target
date isn't necessary to keeping customers. Aero Sport was also another
really good vendor to work with.
Wayne Edgerton 40336
mounting the engine this weekend
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Bob's Ground Power Plug button |
By "universal" I gather you mean the receptacle that mates with the AN2551 plug as sold here: <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/extpowerrect.php>
Since my 177RG has the "universal" receptacle, a few years ago I ordered the wooden
AN2551 plug from Aircraft Spruce (~$30) and attached it to a chepo set of
jumper cables(~$10).
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/woodplug.php>
The Piper style Plug & receptacle is even cheaper at $20 and $16 respectively. <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/piperplugsock.php>
The nice thing about the AN2551 "universal" style is that it has built in protection
from polarity reversal. I'm not sure how the Piper sytle accomplishes this,
if at all.
The Plug-N-Jump ($70 or $75)is nice but you still require cables to attach to it.
>You will probably need the MALE connector with you for the Piper
>style GPU plug. Been flying GA and Corporate for over 40 years and
>don't recall ever seeing a GPU at FBO with Piper type plug. We
>installed the "UNIVERSAL" style receptacle in or RV & will carry
>the male jumper plug in the A/C.
>
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/plugnjump.php
>
>Good luck.
>
>Doug Preston
>RV-7A - 19 hrs.
William Curtis
40237 - SB Fuselage side skins
http://nerv10.com/
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Bob's Ground Power Plug button |
In a message dated 7/6/2006 8:47:50 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
wcurtis@core.com writes:
The Piper style Plug & receptacle is even cheaper at $20 and $16
respectively.
The nice thing about the AN2551 "universal" style is that it has built in
protection from polarity reversal. I'm not sure how the Piper sytle
accomplishes this, if at all.
The Plug-N-Jump ($70 or $75)is nice but you still require cables to attach
to it.
OR USE THE FBO'S GPU WHICH IS A UNIVERSAL STYLE. THE MALE PLUG WOULD COME IN
HANDY IF U HAD TO USE A BATTERY AND CABLES.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 5
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| Subject: | N415EC Airworthy! |
Well, we passed our inspection. Now let=92s see if we can finish the
plane
and get it in the air. We=92ll let you know when we get it in the air,
and if
we can get the 40 hours flown off in time, we=92ll see ya=92ll at OSH.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
--
Message 6
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| Subject: | TruTrak Pitch Servo Quality |
Guys & Gals,
I wanted to post some follow-up conversations I had with Andrew this
morning. He contacted me once he had some answers. Good stuff that
gives me the warm fuzzy's.
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage
Recent RV-10 Build Activity
<http://www.mykitlog.com/display_project.php?project_id=22>
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 10:06 AM
No worries!
My only concern with the split washer is that if they cut too much away,
then the servo wires might work their way into the split. This is why
we are thinking about changing it. We have not had any problem with
chafing, at least not that I have been told about.
Thanks for the bolt length help I will get back with shipping again
today and check on that.
You are more than welcome to post my reply to the list.
Once again thanks for the help and I certainly do appreciate the
constructive criticism.
Andrew Barker
General Manager
TruTrak Flight Systems
"You build it...We fly it!"
PH:479-751-0250 Ext. 222
www.trutrakap.com
________________________________
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 9:54 AM
Andrew,
Thanks for the reply. As I said in one of my later posts I figured
you were looking into things. Don't worry about shipping out a new
mounting bracket as long as you don't have any alignment concerns.
Everything looked pretty good on my install once I drilled a new hole.
I didn't notice the split grommet on the roll servo way back when I did
that one but my concern was that the wire could eventually work into the
split and chafe. If you haven't seen this in a few thousand servos, I'm
not too concerned. I also put a dab of E6000 on it to make sure it
couldn't wiggle. The length of bolt I got was a -11A and the one that I
used was a -13A, although a -12A probably would have also worked.
I'm glad you didn't see my post as bashing TruTrak. It was really
meant to see if my circumstance was a one off or a wider problem that
needed your attention. I have dealt with more than one vendor that
could not take ANY criticism of their product or answer any of the tough
questions I would hit them with. Eggenfeller is the first to come to
mind with this type of mentality. He actually banned me from purchasing
one of his engines because I criticized him for changing the advertised
HP on his H6 engine almost weekly. J
Anyway, I wouldn't fly with anyone else's AP.
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352
PS, you mind if I post this over to the -10 list?
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 9:16 AM
Yes, I do "troll" the list. You were also correct that I read your post
first thing. The biggest reason that I didn't get a reply off to you
yesterday was that I had to get some information on the things that you
posted about. So, here goes...
Yes, we have a small issue in the fit of the new cover over the servo
amp board. We have a new vendor for this part, and they had the DB-9
hole a little too far down. This problem has been addressed, but the
manufacturer of the part needed some time to get me the new parts.
Since the old parts are still useable, they just don't fit as perfectly
as I would like, I elected to use them until they could get me new
parts.
The split grommet has been used since the first servo was
produced...that is somewhere between seven and eight thousand servos
ago. We were however talking about his problem just a few days ago. We
are looking at this problem.
As to the pitch servo bracket, I was completely unaware of a problem.
Thank you very much for bringing this to my attention. In my research
yesterday, it appears that some of our new pitch brackets were not
properly bent. I apologize for this mistake, and would be more than
happy to send you, and anyone else that has an incorrectly bent bracket,
a new bracket that is properly bent as soon as I see them. I should
have an update on when I will get the new brackets today.
I am still checking on the length of the bolt to attach the pushrod to
the bellcrank. I don't yet know if that was just a shipping department
mistake or not. I would assume so, because I haven't heard of this
being a problem yet. I should have more information on that today as
well.
You are correct, we do not yet have all of the drawings together for the
RV-10 pitch installation. I do not like that we are sending out picture
instead of drawings, but I decided that this was certainly better than
no documentation. We are working on these drawings, and should soon
have them out. Things are certainly a little tight right now with
Oshkosh coming up in 2 weeks and all.
Last but not least, I do appreciate you keeping us in check and pointing
out the problems to me. I always appreciate it when people do not just
accept what they get as "what it is supposed to be". Without customer
input, we would not have half of the products that we do today. It is
the customer that makes our business, and I am very glad that we have
such a great group of customers in the RV community. If you or anyone
has any problems, you are more than welcome to call me personally. If
you can't get me at my extension, please check with the operator. Many
times I am either in a meeting or away from my desk. If I am available,
she will round me up. Thanks again.
Andrew Barker
General Manager
TruTrak Flight Systems
"You build it...We fly it!"
PH:479-751-0250 Ext. 222
www.trutrakap.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | N415EC Airworthy! |
Congrats...good luck on the first flight.
Rene' Felker
_____
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 8:50 AM
Well, we passed our inspection. Now let's see if we can finish the plane
and get it in the air. We'll let you know when we get it in the air, and if
we can get the 40 hours flown off in time, we'll see ya'll at OSH.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
--
7/4/2006
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed with Keyswitch and 1 Mag Wiring |
I have a similar, but slightly different solution for this. I have an IO-540
with a single (left) mag with impulse coupler and a Lightspeed II+. I am
using the standard Van's key switch for the ignition. I am starting using the
Lightspeed.
Since I'm starting on the Lightspeed I want to ground out (disable) the Left
mag during start. If you connect the mag to the R-terminal with jumper to
GRN-terminal installed, the mag will be grounded out during start. I connected
the L-terminal to the keyswitch option on the Lightspeed. All other keyswitch
connections were normal per the instructions included. Then (this is
important) I relabeled the key switch. It now says OFF-L-E-BOTH-START (L for left
mag and E for electronic ignition).
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 7/5/2006 9:54:13 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
Tim@MyRV10.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
This is a repost of previous info. I had a builder ask me about it
and I couldn't find it in the archives well, so I thought I'd
resend it with a good subject line.
-----
Wiring a Keyswitch Ignition - Lightspeed Plasma III/II+ ignition and a Mag
Another non-RV10 builder, Dave Sundberg passed this on to me previously,
and I wired mine this way and it indeed works fine. It does seem a bit
like black magic, but seeing as it works fine I won't be complaining.
Test it out before and after you run the engine, but it should work fine.
The configuration is a Mag on the Left side, feeding the lower plugs,
and a Lightspeed Plasma III (or II+) feeding the top plugs as the Right
system. Note that allthough Lightspeed calls it a keyswitch "Option",
it's always on the system, just optional to connect.
* The P-Lead from the Mag goes to the L-Terminal on the Switch with
the shield connected to the GRN terminal on the mag and not connected to
anything on the switch end.
* The P-Lead from the LS (Pin 1) goes to the R-Terminal on the
switch and the shield (Pin 9) goes to the GRN-Terminal in the center of
the switch.
* Do not connect the jumper from the R-Term to the GRN-Terminal
next to it.
* Do not connect the center GRN-Terminal on the switch to aircraft
ground. Both ignitions are grounded out with the switch in the OFF position.
Dave had been flying and it was working for him. I am flying too and
it's working great for me. I had previously spent time hooking mine up
and ohming things out and was confused as heck. I also was confused in
that the P-Lead on the mag is seemingly shorted to ground even with the
wire disconnected, so I couldn't easily tell that it would be grounded
by the switch. (Turns out this is normal) If you hook it all up, except
for the mag P-Lead, you can indeed see that they ground the way their
supposed to by using your ohmmeter.
I also have this posted on my Electrical Tips section on my site.
Tim
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed with Keyswitch and 1 Mag Wiring |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I was hoping I'd hear some input on this. Thanks Jim.
Question: Why did you want to ground the mag during start?
I've been starting on both and it's been starting very
well. Is there something bad about starting with both?
I see why you included "this is important" on the relabeling
portion, as the standard operation is: OFF-R-L-BOTH-START
so the "E" isn't taking place of the "R", it's taking place
of the "L" and the "L" is where the "R" is normally.
One more question: From what you can tell then, the
NORMALLY RIGHT mag portion is grounded during start,
correct? This is the problem I tried to overcome. The
switching diagram provided really doesn't seem to indicate
exactly what is going on. I didn't find that the switch,
if wired "normally" without the "GND" jumper in place,
would allow for proper operation in all modes. I believe
it was START that was the one that didn't behave.
Also, another builder contacted me off-list who believes
the way I have it wired may be using the switch's case
as the ground, and that it wouldn't be safe if the ground
wasn't solid. I'm not sure if this is or isn't true. The
original guy who gave me the tip, and I myself, seem to
think that the ground source might be the Lightspeed
itself. Not 100% sure about this though. The only
100% sure thing I am, is that at least the way it's wired
right now it operates the way I want it to. Left and
Right are grounded when the opposite is chosen, both
ungrounds both, and so does start. And most importantly,
they are both grounded when OFF is chosen.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
JSMcGrew@aol.com wrote:
> I have a similar, but slightly different solution for this. I have an
> IO-540 with a single (left) mag with impulse coupler and a Lightspeed
> II+. I am using the standard Van's key switch for the ignition. I am
> starting using the Lightspeed.
>
> Since I'm starting on the Lightspeed I want to ground out (disable) the
> Left mag during start. If you connect the mag to the R-terminal with
> jumper to GRN-terminal installed, the mag will be grounded out during
> start. I connected the L-terminal to the keyswitch option on the
> Lightspeed. All other keyswitch connections were normal per the
> instructions included. Then (this is important) I relabeled the key
> switch. It now says OFF-L-E-BOTH-START (L for left mag and E for
> electronic ignition).
>
> -Jim
> 40134
>
> In a message dated 7/5/2006 9:54:13 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
> Tim@MyRV10.com writes:
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> This is a repost of previous info. I had a builder ask me about it
> and I couldn't find it in the archives well, so I thought I'd
> resend it with a good subject line.
>
> -----
>
> Wiring a Keyswitch Ignition - Lightspeed Plasma III/II+ ignition and
> a Mag
>
> Another non-RV10 builder, Dave Sundberg passed this on to me
> previously,
> and I wired mine this way and it indeed works fine. It does seem a bit
> like black magic, but seeing as it works fine I won't be complaining.
> Test it out before and after you run the engine, but it should work
> fine.
> The configuration is a Mag on the Left side, feeding the lower plugs,
> and a Lightspeed Plasma III (or II+) feeding the top plugs as the Right
> system. Note that allthough Lightspeed calls it a keyswitch "Option",
> it's always on the system, just optional to connect.
>
> * The P-Lead from the Mag goes to the L-Terminal on the Switch
> with
> the shield connected to the GRN terminal on the mag and not
> connected to
> anything on the switch end.
> * The P-Lead from the LS (Pin 1) goes to the R-Terminal on the
> switch and the shield (Pin 9) goes to the GRN-Terminal in the center of
> the switch.
> * Do not connect the jumper from the R-Term to the GRN-Terminal
> next to it.
> * Do not connect the center GRN-Terminal on the switch to aircraft
> ground. Both ignitions are grounded out with the switch in the OFF
> position.
>
> Dave had been flying and it was working for him. I am flying too and
> it's working great for me. I had previously spent time hooking mine up
> and ohming things out and was confused as heck. I also was confused in
> that the P-Lead on the mag is seemingly shorted to ground even with
> the
> wire disconnected, so I couldn't easily tell that it would be grounded
> by the switch. (Turns out this is normal) If you hook it all up,
> except
> for the mag P-Lead, you can indeed see that they ground the way their
> supposed to by using your ohmmeter.
>
> I also have this posted on my Electrical Tips section on my site.
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - ========================= es Day
>
> --> ================================================== -
> NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
> - List Contribution Web Site
> =================================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed with Keyswitch and 1 Mag Wiring |
Tim
I'm not an expert, but it is my understanding when you are retarding the
spark for starting it is best to only have one system doing that for you. I
suppose if the impulse mag and electronic ignition are doing approximately the
same thing you would never know the difference.
I spent a lot of time with a multi-meter and the ignition switch. I don't
have it or my notes in front of me right now, but I recall that there are 2
GRN-terminals (as far as I could tell they are labeled exactly the same) - one
is in the center (for connection to aircraft ground) and one is for the jumper
to the R-terminal. In the START position the GRN-terminal next to the R
terminal is internally connected to the center aircraft ground GRN-terminal -
so
if the jumper is in place, the R-terminal will be grounded. Without the
jumper it will not be grounded.
If you are still with me, here is what I found to be strange: In R - L or
BOTH the R-terminal is INTERNALLY connected to the GRN-terminal (the one next
to the R-terminal), however the internal connection with the aircraft ground
GRN terminal has been broken. What I am getting at, is if you were to put a
jumper from the L-terminal to the GRN terminal thinking that you were going to
start on the right mag and ground out the left mag, it wouldn't quite work
that way and you would have trouble when doing a mag check (as the L and R
terminal would be connected together). This is why I ended up switching L for
R
and E for L on the markings.
I realize that this isn't the exact problem that you are having, but I think
the way yours is set up is related to the unexpected internal connections
inside the switch. I'm not certain whether your ground is coming from the switch
case or the LS, but it doesn't seem right to not be grounded to aircraft
ground.
All that and now I must caveat this with the fact that, although my ignition
system works great on paper and with a multi-meter... I haven't started it
yet. I'll let you know.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 7/6/2006 12:02:38 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
Tim@MyRV10.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I was hoping I'd hear some input on this. Thanks Jim.
Question: Why did you want to ground the mag during start?
I've been starting on both and it's been starting very
well. Is there something bad about starting with both?
I see why you included "this is important" on the relabeling
portion, as the standard operation is: OFF-R-L-BOTH-START
so the "E" isn't taking place of the "R", it's taking place
of the "L" and the "L" is where the "R" is normally.
One more question: From what you can tell then, the
NORMALLY RIGHT mag portion is grounded during start,
correct? This is the problem I tried to overcome. The
switching diagram provided really doesn't seem to indicate
exactly what is going on. I didn't find that the switch,
if wired "normally" without the "GND" jumper in place,
would allow for proper operation in all modes. I believe
it was START that was the one that didn't behave.
Also, another builder contacted me off-list who believes
the way I have it wired may be using the switch's case
as the ground, and that it wouldn't be safe if the ground
wasn't solid. I'm not sure if this is or isn't true. The
original guy who gave me the tip, and I myself, seem to
think that the ground source might be the Lightspeed
itself. Not 100% sure about this though. The only
100% sure thing I am, is that at least the way it's wired
right now it operates the way I want it to. Left and
Right are grounded when the opposite is chosen, both
ungrounds both, and so does start. And most importantly,
they are both grounded when OFF is chosen.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
JSMcGrew@aol.com wrote:
> I have a similar, but slightly different solution for this. I have an
> IO-540 with a single (left) mag with impulse coupler and a Lightspeed
> II+. I am using the standard Van's key switch for the ignition. I am
> starting using the Lightspeed.
>
> Since I'm starting on the Lightspeed I want to ground out (disable) the
> Left mag during start. If you connect the mag to the R-terminal with
> jumper to GRN-terminal installed, the mag will be grounded out during
> start. I connected the L-terminal to the keyswitch option on the
> Lightspeed. All other keyswitch connections were normal per the
> instructions included. Then (this is important) I relabeled the key
> switch. It now says OFF-L-E-BOTH-START (L for left mag and E for
> electronic ignition).
>
> -Jim
> 40134
>
> In a message dated 7/5/2006 9:54:13 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
> Tim@MyRV10.com writes:
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> This is a repost of previous info. I had a builder ask me about it
> and I couldn't find it in the archives well, so I thought I'd
> resend it with a good subject line.
>
> -----
>
> Wiring a Keyswitch Ignition - Lightspeed Plasma III/II+ ignition and
> a Mag
>
> Another non-RV10 builder, Dave Sundberg passed this on to me
> previously,
> and I wired mine this way and it indeed works fine. It does seem a bit
> like black magic, but seeing as it works fine I won't be complaining.
> Test it out before and after you run the engine, but it should work
> fine.
> The configuration is a Mag on the Left side, feeding the lower plugs,
> and a Lightspeed Plasma III (or II+) feeding the top plugs as the Right
> system. Note that allthough Lightspeed calls it a keyswitch "Option",
> it's always on the system, just optional to connect.
>
> * The P-Lead from the Mag goes to the L-Terminal on the Switch
> with
> the shield connected to the GRN terminal on the mag and not
> connected to
> anything on the switch end.
> * The P-Lead from the LS (Pin 1) goes to the R-Terminal on the
> switch and the shield (Pin 9) goes to the GRN-Terminal in the center of
> the switch.
> * Do not connect the jumper from the R-Term to the GRN-Terminal
> next to it.
> * Do not connect the center GRN-Terminal on the switch to aircraft
> ground. Both ignitions are grounded out with the switch in the OFF
> position.
>
> Dave had been flying and it was working for him. I am flying too and
> it's working great for me. I had previously spent time hooking mine up
> and ohming things out and was confused as heck. I also was confused
in
> that the P-Lead on the mag is seemingly shorted to ground even with
> the
> wire disconnected, so I couldn't easily tell that it would be grounded
> by the switch. (Turns out this is normal) If you hook it all up,
> except
> for the mag P-Lead, you can indeed see that they ground the way their
> supposed to by using your ohmmeter.
>
> I also have this posted on my Electrical Tips section on my site.
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - ========================= es Day
>
> --> ================================================== -
> NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
> - List Contribution Web Site
> =================================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | IO-540 Engine Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
I have a used IO-540 engine and today I removed the intake / induction tubes that
run from the sides of the oil sump up to the cylinders.
Down at the oil sump there is a flexible hose that joins the metal tubes together.
After removing the tubes I noticed that three of the six stubs coming out
of the oil sump were loose and could be moved in and out about an 1/8 inch.
I talked to a local EAA member and he said the tubes were "rolled" in order to
slightly expand them and hold them in place.
So the questions are:
(1) Do I need to get / borrow a tool to roll these again? (2) Can this be done
while the sump is attached?
(3) What about using a sealant (Fuel tank sealant comes to mind) to seal up the
tubes to the oil sump vs "rolling" them again?
Also, Where is a good place to order gaskets? I would like to replace the valve
cover gaskets while I am cleaning up the outside. Need new cylinder intake
gaskets as well.
I have ordered manuals for the engine from Lycoming but they are not here yet.
I need to get part numbers.
Thanks,
Jim Combs
N40192
Message 13
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| Subject: | IO-540 Engine Question |
Aircraft Specialties has lots of parts for Lycoming and Continental,
including Gaskets . . .
Or even Spruce has the basic ones . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
jim@CombsFive.Com
Sent: Thu 7/6/2006 8:55 PM
--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
I have a used IO-540 engine and today I removed the intake / induction
tubes that run from the sides of the oil sump up to the cylinders.
Down at the oil sump there is a flexible hose that joins the metal tubes
together. After removing the tubes I noticed that three of the six
stubs coming out of the oil sump were loose and could be moved in and
out about an 1/8 inch. I talked to a local EAA member and he said the
tubes were "rolled" in order to slightly expand them and hold them in
place.
So the questions are:
(1) Do I need to get / borrow a tool to roll these again? (2) Can this
be done while the sump is attached?
(3) What about using a sealant (Fuel tank sealant comes to mind) to seal
up the tubes to the oil sump vs "rolling" them again?
Also, Where is a good place to order gaskets? I would like to replace
the valve cover gaskets while I am cleaning up the outside. Need new
cylinder intake gaskets as well.
I have ordered manuals for the engine from Lycoming but they are not
here yet. I need to get part numbers.
Thanks,
Jim Combs
N40192
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
Message 14
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| Subject: | IO-540 Engine Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Jim,
I'm guessing when he said rolled he meant beaded. I'm not really
familiar with the construction of the induction tubes but if they are
beaded they really should be tight if the hose clamp is in the right
location.
One of the list A&P types like John are bound to jump in and give you
a qualified answer though.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jim@combsfive.com
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 7:56 PM
--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
I have a used IO-540 engine and today I removed the intake / induction
tubes that run from the sides of the oil sump up to the cylinders.
Down at the oil sump there is a flexible hose that joins the metal tubes
together. After removing the tubes I noticed that three of the six
stubs coming out of the oil sump were loose and could be moved in and
out about an 1/8 inch. I talked to a local EAA member and he said the
tubes were "rolled" in order to slightly expand them and hold them in
place.
So the questions are:
(1) Do I need to get / borrow a tool to roll these again? (2) Can this
be done while the sump is attached?
(3) What about using a sealant (Fuel tank sealant comes to mind) to seal
up the tubes to the oil sump vs "rolling" them again?
Also, Where is a good place to order gaskets? I would like to replace
the valve cover gaskets while I am cleaning up the outside. Need new
cylinder intake gaskets as well.
I have ordered manuals for the engine from Lycoming but they are not
here yet. I need to get part numbers.
Thanks,
Jim Combs
N40192
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Engine Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
Yep, beaded may be the correct term. The tube has what appears to be a grove on
the inside. As if a tool was turned inside to force a bead to form pressed
against the oil sump.
I am not familiar with the construction of the sump itself. I would love to
know why they placed the intake manifold internal to the oil sump. Heat the inlet
air? or cool the oil? The engineer in me would really like ot know.
Aircraft Spruce and Specialties does have the valve cover gaskets.
Thanks, Jim C
Do Not Archive
===========================================================
--> RV10-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Jim,
I'm guessing when he said rolled he meant beaded. I'm not really
familiar with the construction of the induction tubes but if they are
beaded they really should be tight if the hose clamp is in the right
location.
One of the list A&P types like John are bound to jump in and give you
a qualified answer though.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jim@combsfive.com
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 7:56 PM
--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
I have a used IO-540 engine and today I removed the intake / induction
tubes that run from the sides of the oil sump up to the cylinders.
Down at the oil sump there is a flexible hose that joins the metal tubes
together. After removing the tubes I noticed that three of the six
stubs coming out of the oil sump were loose and could be moved in and
out about an 1/8 inch. I talked to a local EAA member and he said the
tubes were "rolled" in order to slightly expand them and hold them in
place.
So the questions are:
(1) Do I need to get / borrow a tool to roll these again? (2) Can this
be done while the sump is attached?
(3) What about using a sealant (Fuel tank sealant comes to mind) to seal
up the tubes to the oil sump vs "rolling" them again?
Also, Where is a good place to order gaskets? I would like to replace
the valve cover gaskets while I am cleaning up the outside. Need new
cylinder intake gaskets as well.
I have ordered manuals for the engine from Lycoming but they are not
here yet. I need to get part numbers.
Thanks,
Jim Combs
N40192
===========================================================
Message 16
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
This is something I grabbed off from the Aeroelectric list.... I heard
a bit about it this week on the 3rd, but not enough to know anything
for sure and start spreading improper news. I'm saddened by this loss,
as Brian was very nice to talk with off-list. He'll be missed greatly.
He was one of our RV-10 building gang.
----- Original Message -----
Hello
It is with infinite sadness that I must inform you all that Brian was in
a plane crash with two other pilots on Saturday July 1. He was not in
his RV and he was not the pilot.
He really enjoyed all the input and comraderie he felt from you all .
He is going to be very sorely missed.
Please tell me how to unsubscribe from here.
Sincerely,
Rebecca Bollaert
rbollaert@comcast.com
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Here I go again - console finished |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I finished the center console today, and can't resist gloating just a
little 8-) .
http://deemsrv10.com/41-2consolefinished.htm
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2041%20Upper%20Fwd%20Fuse%20Install/slides/DSC03024.html
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse/Finish
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Flap position sensor |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
I would like to hear from anyone who has mounted a Ray Allan flap position
sensor (POS 12) on the flap system to drive a Ray Allan LED indicator. A
picture or description of where and how you mounted it would be most
appreciated.
Thanks
Dick Sipp
40065
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Engine Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
jim@CombsFive.Com wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
>
>Yep, beaded may be the correct term.
>
No, rolled is.
> The tube has what appears to be a grove on the inside. As if a tool was turned
inside to force a bead to form pressed against the oil sump.
>
Bingo! The tool expands the tube so it seals. Totally inelegant
solution to the problem, if you ask me. That tube is a great source of
intake leaks.
>I am not familiar with the construction of the sump itself.
>
It's cast aluminum. :-)
> I would love to know why they placed the intake manifold internal to the oil
sump. Heat the inlet air? or cool the oil? The engineer in me would really
like ot know.
>
The idea was to cool the oil. In doing so, they heat the incoming air,
making it less dense, and robbing you of a little HP. Might even be a
lot of HP. I dunno which!
>Aircraft Spruce and Specialties does have the valve cover gaskets.
>
If you getnew gaskets, pay the piper and get the red silicone gaskets.
You'll never buy another set as long as you don't hog down on the valve
cover screws.
Linn
>
>Thanks, Jim C
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>===========================================================
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
>Jim,
>
> I'm guessing when he said rolled he meant beaded. I'm not really
>familiar with the construction of the induction tubes but if they are
>beaded they really should be tight if the hose clamp is in the right
>location.
>
> One of the list A&P types like John are bound to jump in and give you
>a qualified answer though.
>
>Michael Sausen
>-10 #352 Fuselage
>Do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>jim@combsfive.com
>Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 7:56 PM
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
>
>I have a used IO-540 engine and today I removed the intake / induction
>tubes that run from the sides of the oil sump up to the cylinders.
>
>Down at the oil sump there is a flexible hose that joins the metal tubes
>together. After removing the tubes I noticed that three of the six
>stubs coming out of the oil sump were loose and could be moved in and
>out about an 1/8 inch. I talked to a local EAA member and he said the
>tubes were "rolled" in order to slightly expand them and hold them in
>place.
>
>So the questions are:
>
>(1) Do I need to get / borrow a tool to roll these again? (2) Can this
>be done while the sump is attached?
>(3) What about using a sealant (Fuel tank sealant comes to mind) to seal
>up the tubes to the oil sump vs "rolling" them again?
>
>Also, Where is a good place to order gaskets? I would like to replace
>the valve cover gaskets while I am cleaning up the outside. Need new
>cylinder intake gaskets as well.
>
>I have ordered manuals for the engine from Lycoming but they are not
>here yet. I need to get part numbers.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Combs
>N40192
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>===========================================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
It flies. Once around the pattern about 5 minutes before dark. Will
try to
post more details when we have them. We should have both N256H and
N415EC
at Oshkosh, Lord willing. See ya=92ll there.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
--
7/4/2006
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
--
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed with Keyswitch and 1 Mag Wiring |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
Without getting into the details of the switch per se....the switches
are manufactured to allow you the choice of starting on both mags or on
left mag only. I don't believe right mag only is an option.
This originates with certified aircraft, where you can have a shower of
sparks ignition on the left mag, and no retard on the right, or you can
have impulse coupling on the left mag and none on the right, or you can
have two impulse coupled mags. You want any mag (or electronic
equivalent) that fires during cranking to do so at TDC. If a mag fires
at the normal 20-25 degrees during cranking, you risk a cylinder firing
enough before TDC to drive the engine backwards, also called a
kickback..which can destroy your starter and vacuum pump. This is
prevented by having the right mag grounded during the time the key is in
the start position, and the left mag fired by retard breaker or impulse
coupling.
Obviously your experimental doesn't have to adhere to convention, but it
is harder to swim upstream when the boat points the other way.
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I was hoping I'd hear some input on this. Thanks Jim.
>
> Question: Why did you want to ground the mag during start?
> I've been starting on both and it's been starting very
> well. Is there something bad about starting with both?
>
> I see why you included "this is important" on the relabeling
> portion, as the standard operation is: OFF-R-L-BOTH-START
> so the "E" isn't taking place of the "R", it's taking place
> of the "L" and the "L" is where the "R" is normally.
>
> One more question: From what you can tell then, the
> NORMALLY RIGHT mag portion is grounded during start,
> correct? This is the problem I tried to overcome. The
> switching diagram provided really doesn't seem to indicate
> exactly what is going on. I didn't find that the switch,
> if wired "normally" without the "GND" jumper in place,
> would allow for proper operation in all modes. I believe
> it was START that was the one that didn't behave.
>
> Also, another builder contacted me off-list who believes
> the way I have it wired may be using the switch's case
> as the ground, and that it wouldn't be safe if the ground
> wasn't solid. I'm not sure if this is or isn't true. The
> original guy who gave me the tip, and I myself, seem to
> think that the ground source might be the Lightspeed
> itself. Not 100% sure about this though. The only
> 100% sure thing I am, is that at least the way it's wired
> right now it operates the way I want it to. Left and
> Right are grounded when the opposite is chosen, both
> ungrounds both, and so does start. And most importantly,
> they are both grounded when OFF is chosen.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> JSMcGrew@aol.com wrote:
>> I have a similar, but slightly different solution for this. I have an
>> IO-540 with a single (left) mag with impulse coupler and a Lightspeed
>> II+. I am using the standard Van's key switch for the ignition. I am
>> starting using the Lightspeed.
>>
>> Since I'm starting on the Lightspeed I want to ground out (disable)
>> the Left mag during start. If you connect the mag to the R-terminal
>> with jumper to GRN-terminal installed, the mag will be grounded out
>> during start. I connected the L-terminal to the keyswitch option on
>> the Lightspeed. All other keyswitch connections were normal per the
>> instructions included. Then (this is important) I relabeled the key
>> switch. It now says OFF-L-E-BOTH-START (L for left mag and E for
>> electronic ignition).
>>
>> -Jim
>> 40134
>>
>> In a message dated 7/5/2006 9:54:13 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
>> Tim@MyRV10.com writes:
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> This is a repost of previous info. I had a builder ask me about it
>> and I couldn't find it in the archives well, so I thought I'd
>> resend it with a good subject line.
>>
>> -----
>>
>> Wiring a Keyswitch Ignition - Lightspeed Plasma III/II+ ignition and
>> a Mag
>>
>> Another non-RV10 builder, Dave Sundberg passed this on to me
>> previously,
>> and I wired mine this way and it indeed works fine. It does seem
>> a bit
>> like black magic, but seeing as it works fine I won't be
>> complaining.
>> Test it out before and after you run the engine, but it should work
>> fine.
>> The configuration is a Mag on the Left side, feeding the lower
>> plugs,
>> and a Lightspeed Plasma III (or II+) feeding the top plugs as the
>> Right
>> system. Note that allthough Lightspeed calls it a keyswitch
>> "Option",
>> it's always on the system, just optional to connect.
>>
>> * The P-Lead from the Mag goes to the L-Terminal on the Switch
>> with
>> the shield connected to the GRN terminal on the mag and not
>> connected to
>> anything on the switch end.
>> * The P-Lead from the LS (Pin 1) goes to the R-Terminal on the
>> switch and the shield (Pin 9) goes to the GRN-Terminal in the
>> center of
>> the switch.
>> * Do not connect the jumper from the R-Term to the GRN-Terminal
>> next to it.
>> * Do not connect the center GRN-Terminal on the switch to
>> aircraft
>> ground. Both ignitions are grounded out with the switch in the OFF
>> position.
>>
>> Dave had been flying and it was working for him. I am flying too
>> and
>> it's working great for me. I had previously spent time hooking
>> mine up
>> and ohming things out and was confused as heck. I also was
>> confused in
>> that the P-Lead on the mag is seemingly shorted to ground even with
>> the
>> wire disconnected, so I couldn't easily tell that it would be
>> grounded
>> by the switch. (Turns out this is normal) If you hook it all up,
>> except
>> for the mag P-Lead, you can indeed see that they ground the way
>> their
>> supposed to by using your ohmmeter.
>>
>> I also have this posted on my Electrical Tips section on my site.
>> Tim
>>
>> -- Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - ========================= es
>> Day -->
>> ================================================== -
>> NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
>> - List Contribution Web Site
>> =================================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Here I go again - console finished |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Dunne" <acs@acspropeller.com.au>
Hey Deems,
That is one mighty console effort. Well Done!
Did you choose the Lancair panel specifically to install the OP gear?
John #315 do not archive
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, 7 July 2006 1:38 PM
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I finished the center console today, and can't resist gloating just a
little 8-) .
http://deemsrv10.com/41-2consolefinished.htm
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2041%20Upper%20Fwd%20Fuse%20Install/slides/DS
C03024.html
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse/Finish
http://deemsrv10.com/
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