Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:35 AM - Re: Here I go again - console finished (Wayne Edgerton)
2. 05:02 AM - Re: IO-540 Engine Question (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
3. 06:23 AM - Re: Here I go again - console finished (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
4. 07:13 AM - Airventure RV BBQ (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
5. 07:51 AM - PDF files (Sam Marlow)
6. 08:34 AM - Re: PDF files (Tim Olson)
7. 08:41 AM - Re: PDF files (Sam Marlow)
8. 10:00 AM - Re: Here I go again - console finished (Deems Davis)
9. 10:54 AM - Elevator trim servo (Eric_Kallio)
10. 11:14 AM - Re: Elevator trim servo (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
11. 11:14 AM - Re: Elevator trim servo (Rene Felker)
12. 11:49 AM - Re: Flap position sensor (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
13. 11:54 AM - Re: Elevator trim servo ()
14. 12:13 PM - Re: Elevator trim servo (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
15. 12:27 PM - Re: Elevator trim servo (Tim Olson)
16. 12:30 PM - New (sort of) Builder and Wing Build Questions (jchang10)
17. 01:01 PM - Re: New (sort of) Builder and Wing Build Questions (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
18. 01:22 PM - Re: New (sort of) Builder and Wing Build Questions (Dan Masys)
19. 01:27 PM - Re: New (sort of) Builder and Wing Build Questions (Tim Olson)
20. 02:00 PM - Re: New (sort of) Builder and Wing Build Questions (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
21. 02:21 PM - Re: Flap position sensor (Chris , Susie Darcy)
22. 02:28 PM - Re: New (sort of) Builder and Wing Build Questions (Evan and Megan Johnson)
23. 02:28 PM - Re: Elevator trim servo (Rick)
24. 02:35 PM - Re: Flap position sensor (Rick)
25. 02:47 PM - Re: IO-540 Engine Question (Rick)
26. 03:41 PM - Re: Flap position sensor (John Dunne)
27. 04:03 PM - Re: Flap position sensor (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
28. 04:54 PM - Re: IO-540 Engine Question (Carl Franz)
29. 06:03 PM - Re: IO-540 Engine Question (Tim Lewis)
30. 06:28 PM - Re: Re: IO-540 Engine Question ()
31. 06:38 PM - Re: Flap position sensor (Harris, Jeremy P)
32. 06:38 PM - Re: Flap position sensor (JSMcGrew@aol.com)
33. 07:57 PM - Re: Flap position sensor (Richard Sipp)
34. 08:49 PM - Re: N415EC Flying! (Marcus Cooper)
35. 09:56 PM - Re: New (sort of) Builder and Wing Build Questions (jchang10)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Here I go again - console finished |
Hi Deems,
Your console and your panel look fantastic!! I wish I had your talent
for fabricating things.
Wayne Edgerton 40336
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | IO-540 Engine Question |
"If you getnew gaskets, pay the piper and get the red silicone gaskets.
You'll never buy another set as long as you don't hog down on the valve
cover screws.
Linn"
Piper sells the silicone gaskets? : )
TDT
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Fri 7/7/2006 1:04 AM
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn Walters
<pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
jim@CombsFive.Com wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
>
>Yep, beaded may be the correct term.
>
No, rolled is.
> The tube has what appears to be a grove on the inside. As if a tool
was turned inside to force a bead to form pressed against the oil sump.
>
Bingo! The tool expands the tube so it seals. Totally inelegant
solution to the problem, if you ask me. That tube is a great source of
intake leaks.
>I am not familiar with the construction of the sump itself.
>
It's cast aluminum. :-)
> I would love to know why they placed the intake manifold internal
to the oil sump. Heat the inlet air? or cool the oil? The engineer in
me would really like ot know.
>
The idea was to cool the oil. In doing so, they heat the incoming air,
making it less dense, and robbing you of a little HP. Might even be a
lot of HP. I dunno which!
>Aircraft Spruce and Specialties does have the valve cover gaskets.
>
If you getnew gaskets, pay the piper and get the red silicone gaskets.
You'll never buy another set as long as you don't hog down on the valve
cover screws.
Linn
>
>Thanks, Jim C
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>========================
=========================
==========
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
<rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
>Jim,
>
> I'm guessing when he said rolled he meant beaded. I'm not really
>familiar with the construction of the induction tubes but if they are
>beaded they really should be tight if the hose clamp is in the right
>location.
>
> One of the list A&P types like John are bound to jump in and give you
>a qualified answer though.
>
>Michael Sausen
>-10 #352 Fuselage
>Do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>jim@combsfive.com
>Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 7:56 PM
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
>
>I have a used IO-540 engine and today I removed the intake / induction
>tubes that run from the sides of the oil sump up to the cylinders.
>
>Down at the oil sump there is a flexible hose that joins the metal
tubes
>together. After removing the tubes I noticed that three of the six
>stubs coming out of the oil sump were loose and could be moved in and
>out about an 1/8 inch. I talked to a local EAA member and he said the
>tubes were "rolled" in order to slightly expand them and hold them in
>place.
>
>So the questions are:
>
>(1) Do I need to get / borrow a tool to roll these again? (2) Can this
>be done while the sump is attached?
>(3) What about using a sealant (Fuel tank sealant comes to mind) to
seal
>up the tubes to the oil sump vs "rolling" them again?
>
>Also, Where is a good place to order gaskets? I would like to replace
>the valve cover gaskets while I am cleaning up the outside. Need new
>cylinder intake gaskets as well.
>
>I have ordered manuals for the engine from Lycoming but they are not
>here yet. I need to get part numbers.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Combs
>N40192
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>========================
=========================
==========
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=========================
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=========================
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=========================
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Here I go again - console finished |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Very nice!
Bob #40105
Firewall fwd and paint prep
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 10:38 PM
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
I finished the center console today, and can't resist gloating just a
little 8-) .
http://deemsrv10.com/41-2consolefinished.htm
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2041%20Upper%20Fwd%20Fuse%20Install/slide
s/DSC03024.html
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse/Finish
http://deemsrv10.com/
Message 4
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| Subject: | Airventure RV BBQ |
I thought I would post this for anyone that might not get Bob Collins
excellent RV Newsletter. There is a BBQ on Wednesday night at
Airventure and there is currently about 150 people that have signed up
to attend including several of our familiar vendors. For more
information check out:
http://home.comcast.net/~bcollinsrv7a/eaa/2006bbq.html
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage
Do Not Archive
Recent RV-10 Build Activity
<http://www.mykitlog.com/display_project.php?project_id=22>
Message 5
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
I'm planing to paint my own aircraft and just wondered where I might
fined a plain drawing of the RV10 to doodle on?
Sam
Finish kit
Message 6
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sam,
Try these:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/paint/index.html
http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/rv_drawings/index.html
You should be able to save any you wish.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Sam Marlow wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
>
> I'm planing to paint my own aircraft and just wondered where I might
> fined a plain drawing of the RV10 to doodle on?
> Sam
> Finish kit
>
>
Message 7
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Thanks Tim!
do not archive
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
>
> Sam,
>
> Try these:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/paint/index.html
> http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/rv_drawings/index.html
>
> You should be able to save any you wish.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Sam Marlow wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow@adelphia.net>
>>
>> I'm planing to paint my own aircraft and just wondered where I might
>> fined a plain drawing of the RV10 to doodle on?
>> Sam
>> Finish kit
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Here I go again - console finished |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Sort of, I saw a pic of the panel on Henkejen's kitlog site, e-mailed
him to find out where he got it, then called Aerotronics, where I talked
to Gary Wirrell, who offered to do a graphic layout to see if it would
fit, (I think he was aiming at selling me more than just the panel),
when he e-mailed back the layout that sort of sealed the deal.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Dunne wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Dunne" <acs@acspropeller.com.au>
>
>Hey Deems,
>That is one mighty console effort. Well Done!
>Did you choose the Lancair panel specifically to install the OP gear?
>John #315 do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
>Sent: Friday, 7 July 2006 1:38 PM
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
>I finished the center console today, and can't resist gloating just a
>little 8-) .
>
>http://deemsrv10.com/41-2consolefinished.htm
>
>http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2041%20Upper%20Fwd%20Fuse%20Install/slides/DS
>C03024.html
>
>
>Deems Davis # 406
>Fuse/Finish
>http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Elevator trim servo |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
I have a question for the group. I am finishing up section 12 and am to the point
of adjusting the elevator trim tab servo. The instructions say to move the
servo are through the necessary range of motion (don't have my plans available
right now to get the exact wording). My question is what kind of power sources
have been used to motor the servo, or what other method has been used? I would
appreciate any assistance and suggestions on this matter as I wasn't able to
track down much through the archives. Thank you.
Eric Kallio
#518 finishing up the tailcone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=45513#45513
Message 10
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| Subject: | Elevator trim servo |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Using the white wires, you can run the motor off any ~12v source.
I used my 14.4 volt battery off my cordless drill for this motor and the
flap motor. Just flip the wires around to run the motor the other way.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 1:52 PM
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
I have a question for the group. I am finishing up section 12 and am to
the point of adjusting the elevator trim tab servo. The instructions say
to move the servo are through the necessary range of motion (don't have
my plans available right now to get the exact wording). My question is
what kind of power sources have been used to motor the servo, or what
other method has been used? I would appreciate any assistance and
suggestions on this matter as I wasn't able to track down much through
the archives. Thank you.
Eric Kallio
#518 finishing up the tailcone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=45513#45513
Message 11
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| Subject: | Elevator trim servo |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
I used a model train transformer. Don't be surprised when the cable
movement is asymmetrical. One of the cables moves out and back if I
remember right.
Do not archive
Rene' Felker
40322
N423CF
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 11:52 AM
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
I have a question for the group. I am finishing up section 12 and am to the
point of adjusting the elevator trim tab servo. The instructions say to move
the servo are through the necessary range of motion (don't have my plans
available right now to get the exact wording). My question is what kind of
power sources have been used to motor the servo, or what other method has
been used? I would appreciate any assistance and suggestions on this matter
as I wasn't able to track down much through the archives. Thank you.
Eric Kallio
#518 finishing up the tailcone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=45513#45513
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Flap position sensor |
Photos attached of my POS 12 mount. I used 2 pieces of .032 angle, one
screwed to the tunnel wall and one pop-riveted to the flap actuator. I connected
them with a piece of threated model aircraft pushrod with a brass clevis on one
end and a Z bend on the other.
You can also see the flap switch I installed for my Advanced Flight Systems
AOA Sport systems.
-Jim McGrew
40134
In a message dated 7/6/2006 9:42:21 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
rsipp@earthlink.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
I would like to hear from anyone who has mounted a Ray Allan flap position
sensor (POS 12) on the flap system to drive a Ray Allan LED indicator. A
picture or description of where and how you mounted it would be most
appreciated.
Thanks
Dick Sipp
40065
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim servo |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
9 volt rectangular battery works just fine.
Use the two unmarked leads of the servo.
Swap the leads to change direction.
The servo will stop on it's own when travel limits are reached.
Note: The left and right trim tabs move different amounts.
Jim Combs
40192
===========================================================
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
I have a question for the group. I am finishing up section 12 and am to the point
of adjusting the elevator trim tab servo. The instructions say to move the
servo are through the necessary range of motion (don't have my plans available
right now to get the exact wording). My question is what kind of power sources
have been used to motor the servo, or what other method has been used? I would
appreciate any assistance and suggestions on this matter as I wasn't able to
track down much through the archives. Thank you.
Eric Kallio
#518 finishing up the tailcone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=45513#45513
===========================================================
Message 14
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| Subject: | Elevator trim servo |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
In addition to the answers you already received, I believe several
people in the past simply used a 9 volt battery. I think I used a auto
battery charger.
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 12:52 PM
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
I have a question for the group. I am finishing up section 12 and am to
the point of adjusting the elevator trim tab servo. The instructions say
to move the servo are through the necessary range of motion (don't have
my plans available right now to get the exact wording). My question is
what kind of power sources have been used to motor the servo, or what
other method has been used? I would appreciate any assistance and
suggestions on this matter as I wasn't able to track down much through
the archives. Thank you.
Eric Kallio
#518 finishing up the tailcone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=45513#45513
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim servo |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I think you may be able to use a 9V battery. I'm not sure if that's
what I used or not, but it may have been. If that doesn't work,
then any old 12V source should do.
Tim
do not archive
Eric_Kallio wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
>
> I have a question for the group. I am finishing up section 12 and am
> to the point of adjusting the elevator trim tab servo. The
> instructions say to move the servo are through the necessary range of
> motion (don't have my plans available right now to get the exact
> wording). My question is what kind of power sources have been used to
> motor the servo, or what other method has been used? I would
> appreciate any assistance and suggestions on this matter as I wasn't
> able to track down much through the archives. Thank you.
>
> Eric Kallio #518 finishing up the tailcone
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=45513#45513
>
>
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | New (sort of) Builder and Wing Build Questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>
Hi Everyone,
I just discovered the matronics rv-10 list, and thought I would add my name to
the forum. I had been using the search engine for some time, but for some reason,
did not realize the list was still active. Some of the names here are pretty
familiar to me (especially Tim Olson's) thru builder websites, which are pure
gold for newbies like me.
However, while browsing some of the builder sites, I noticed many are adding leading
edge lights and wiring conduit while assembling the ribs. I am still countersinking
the main spars, but the ribs are next. I do want LE lights and probably
wiring conduit.
LE lights. Should I order these now? I am hoping to order with halogen bulbs with
the option to upgrade to HID in the future? Should I install the lights along
with the ribs?
Conduit. I didn't get any in the kit, and i don't think it's on the parts list.
Van's catalog has Nylon wiring conduit as part # DUCT NT5/8, but it says it's
included in the wiring kit!? Should I be ordering this too while building the
wings?
Fuel caps. Also, has anyone ordered the lockable fuel caps? I was just at Van's
a couple weeks ago for a demo flight, and noticed the deluxe and lockable fuel
caps on the counter. I wish I had inspected them more carefully, but the upgrade
seems nice to have - esp. if it's lockable.
Thank you for the advice!
Jae
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=45536#45536
Message 17
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| Subject: | New (sort of) Builder and Wing Build Questions |
Jae,
Welcome. You will find this is probably the most active RV-10 list on
the net and is barely beat out by the main RV List. Anyway here is some
answers to your questions:
1) LE Lights (aka Duckworks) can be put in anytime but I did it while I
was building the wing and had access without the spar in the way. I
still think this is the best way to go.
2) You can pretty much use any old PVC or ABS pipe for conduit, just
size it accordingly. Lowes Depot carries the flexible blue conduit also
but that stuff is a bit heavy. If you can get a hold of some fiber
optic ducting, like several of us did, that seems to be the best. I
happened to use some black ABS irrigation pipe I had laying around.
3) Nowadays I would opt for the locking fuel caps. I debated it back
then and really wished I would have got them. I may still add the
aftermarket type.
Hope that helps a little.
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage
Do Not Archive
Recent RV-10 Build Activity
<http://www.mykitlog.com/display_project.php?project_id=22>
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jchang10
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 2:30 PM
--> RV10-List message posted by: "jchang10"
--> <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com <mailto:jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com> >
Hi Everyone,
I just discovered the matronics rv-10 list, and thought I would add my
name to the forum. I had been using the search engine for some time, but
for some reason, did not realize the list was still active. Some of the
names here are pretty familiar to me (especially Tim Olson's) thru
builder websites, which are pure gold for newbies like me.
However, while browsing some of the builder sites, I noticed many are
adding leading edge lights and wiring conduit while assembling the ribs.
I am still countersinking the main spars, but the ribs are next. I do
want LE lights and probably wiring conduit.
LE lights. Should I order these now? I am hoping to order with halogen
bulbs with the option to upgrade to HID in the future? Should I install
the lights along with the ribs?
Conduit. I didn't get any in the kit, and i don't think it's on the
parts list. Van's catalog has Nylon wiring conduit as part # DUCT NT5/8,
but it says it's included in the wiring kit!? Should I be ordering this
too while building the wings?
Fuel caps. Also, has anyone ordered the lockable fuel caps? I was just
at Van's a couple weeks ago for a demo flight, and noticed the deluxe
and lockable fuel caps on the counter. I wish I had inspected them more
carefully, but the upgrade seems nice to have - esp. if it's lockable.
Thank you for the advice!
Jae
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=45536#45536
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=45536#45536>
=========================
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<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
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Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: New (sort of) Builder and Wing Build Questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
---- jchang10 <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com> wrote:
> However, while browsing some of the builder sites, I noticed many are adding
leading edge lights and wiring conduit while assembling the ribs. I am still countersinking
the main spars, but the ribs are next. I do want LE lights and probably
wiring conduit.
> LE lights. Should I order these now? I am hoping to order with halogen bulbs
with the option to upgrade to HID in the future? Should I install the lights along
with the ribs?
I have Duckworks leading edge lights on both wings in my RV-7A and for my $0.02
I don't think they are as good a solution as the wingtip lights in the -10 kit.
Lotsa work to install, impossible to get a completely smooth surface transition,
the lenses are easy to scratch when you are wiping bug hits off the leading
edge, and they get whacked with FOD and crack (have one needing replacement
currently). Light dispersion pattern isn't really any better than the wingtip
lights if you mount them in either of the 2 most outboard bays. Other than
that they are wonderful ;-).
> Conduit. I didn't get any in the kit, and i don't think it's on the parts list.
Van's catalog has Nylon wiring conduit as part # DUCT NT5/8, but it says it's
included in the wiring kit!? Should I be ordering this too while building the
wings?
Van's flex conduit is easy to snake around various places, and has the benefit
that it will more or less latch itself into a 7/8 inch hole in a rib and not need
to be lashed to stay put. You can order it separately from the web store;
no need to get a whole wiring kit to get some.
YMMV,
-Dan Masys
40448 finish kit & panel. Autopilot harness just fabricated, installed and it
works!
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: New (sort of) Builder and Wing Build Questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
jchang10 wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "jchang10"
> <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I just discovered the matronics rv-10 list, and thought I would add
> my name to the forum. I had been using the search engine for some
> time, but for some reason, did not realize the list was still active.
> Some of the names here are pretty familiar to me (especially Tim
> Olson's) thru builder websites, which are pure gold for newbies like
> me.
>
> However, while browsing some of the builder sites, I noticed many are
> adding leading edge lights and wiring conduit while assembling the
> ribs. I am still countersinking the main spars, but the ribs are
> next. I do want LE lights and probably wiring conduit.
>
> LE lights. Should I order these now? I am hoping to order with
> halogen bulbs with the option to upgrade to HID in the future? Should
> I install the lights along with the ribs?
>
Jae, I think it would be easiest to install them either after
the wing is built, or after the leading edge is built at least.
You could order them, but I wouldn't start installing them
until then.
> Conduit. I didn't get any in the kit, and i don't think it's on the
> parts list. Van's catalog has Nylon wiring conduit as part # DUCT
> NT5/8, but it says it's included in the wiring kit!? Should I be
> ordering this too while building the wings?
>
I don't know what comes in the wiring kit regarding conduit,
but it's pretty cheap, and it's pretty nice stuff for doing the
wings. A 25' roll will take care of you.
-Tim
> Fuel caps. Also, has anyone ordered the lockable fuel caps? I was
> just at Van's a couple weeks ago for a demo flight, and noticed the
> deluxe and lockable fuel caps on the counter. I wish I had inspected
> them more carefully, but the upgrade seems nice to have - esp. if
> it's lockable.
>
> Thank you for the advice!
>
> Jae
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | New (sort of) Builder and Wing Build Questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Dan,
Did you have the HID lights or just standard halogen for the Duckworks? I would
agree with you on the halogen's but it would be interesting to hear that the
stock -10 halogens are better than the HID's. They throw way more light than
any halogen.
Incidentally, I checked my log and spent 5.5 hours installing both the Duckworks
HID and the AOA ports. I also installed the nutplates in the other wing for
a second HID light should I want two. Much easier to put them in ahead of time
but you need the template that comes with the kit.
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 3:22 PM
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Masys <dmasys@cox.net>
---- jchang10 <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com> wrote:
> However, while browsing some of the builder sites, I noticed many are adding
leading edge lights and wiring conduit while assembling the ribs. I am still countersinking
the main spars, but the ribs are next. I do want LE lights and probably
wiring conduit.
> LE lights. Should I order these now? I am hoping to order with halogen bulbs
with the option to upgrade to HID in the future? Should I install the lights along
with the ribs?
I have Duckworks leading edge lights on both wings in my RV-7A and for my $0.02
I don't think they are as good a solution as the wingtip lights in the -10 kit.
Lotsa work to install, impossible to get a completely smooth surface transition,
the lenses are easy to scratch when you are wiping bug hits off the leading
edge, and they get whacked with FOD and crack (have one needing replacement
currently). Light dispersion pattern isn't really any better than the wingtip
lights if you mount them in either of the 2 most outboard bays. Other than
that they are wonderful ;-).
> Conduit. I didn't get any in the kit, and i don't think it's on the parts list.
Van's catalog has Nylon wiring conduit as part # DUCT NT5/8, but it says it's
included in the wiring kit!? Should I be ordering this too while building the
wings?
Van's flex conduit is easy to snake around various places, and has the benefit
that it will more or less latch itself into a 7/8 inch hole in a rib and not need
to be lashed to stay put. You can order it separately from the web store;
no need to get a whole wiring kit to get some.
YMMV,
-Dan Masys
40448 finish kit & panel. Autopilot harness just fabricated, installed and it
works!
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flap position sensor |
Jim those stick on things that hold the wires ...what are they called as
I cant seem to find them out here in OZ
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: JSMcGrew@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2006 4:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap position sensor
Photos attached of my POS 12 mount. I used 2 pieces of .032 angle, one
screwed to the tunnel wall and one pop-riveted to the flap actuator. I
connected them with a piece of threated model aircraft pushrod with a
brass clevis on one end and a Z bend on the other.
You can also see the flap switch I installed for my Advanced Flight
Systems AOA Sport systems.
-Jim McGrew
40134
In a message dated 7/6/2006 9:42:21 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
rsipp@earthlink.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp"
<rsipp@earthlink.net>
I would like to hear from anyone who has mounted a Ray Allan flap
position
sensor (POS 12) on the flap system to drive a Ray Allan LED
indicator. A
picture or description of where and how you mounted it would be most
appreciated.
Thanks
Dick Sipp
40065
=========================
es Day
-->
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Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: New (sort of) Builder and Wing Build Questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
I can tell you my approach....The landing lights I am planning on are the
wing tip mounted type, so I am not buying them until the wings are mounted
to the fuse. I did not run a conduit (I may regret this) but so far I have
had no problems pulling wires through the snap bushing by reaching through
the inspection plates. I can definitively tell you that the lockable deluxe
fuel caps are a good deal. I did not install them on my tanks and I really
wish I had. I have installed them for several clients and they are much
nicer hardware....worth an extra $100.00. Small change in the scope of this
project.
Cheers..
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 12:29 PM
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I just discovered the matronics rv-10 list, and thought I would add my
name to the forum. I had been using the search engine for some time, but for
some reason, did not realize the list was still active. Some of the names
here are pretty familiar to me (especially Tim Olson's) thru builder
websites, which are pure gold for newbies like me.
>
> However, while browsing some of the builder sites, I noticed many are
adding leading edge lights and wiring conduit while assembling the ribs. I
am still countersinking the main spars, but the ribs are next. I do want LE
lights and probably wiring conduit.
>
> LE lights. Should I order these now? I am hoping to order with halogen
bulbs with the option to upgrade to HID in the future? Should I install the
lights along with the ribs?
>
> Conduit. I didn't get any in the kit, and i don't think it's on the parts
list. Van's catalog has Nylon wiring conduit as part # DUCT NT5/8, but it
says it's included in the wiring kit!? Should I be ordering this too while
building the wings?
>
> Fuel caps. Also, has anyone ordered the lockable fuel caps? I was just at
Van's a couple weeks ago for a demo flight, and noticed the deluxe and
lockable fuel caps on the counter. I wish I had inspected them more
carefully, but the upgrade seems nice to have - esp. if it's lockable.
>
> Thank you for the advice!
>
> Jae
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=45536#45536
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim servo |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Eric,
I picked up a 12 volt 1000 Mah DC power supply from Radio Shack. It was like $20.
I have used it to operate and test all the electrical items I have installed
to date to include lights, strobes, flap motor, trim servos, trim relays and
it even kicks over the main battery relays. Pick up a set of aligator clips and
install them on the leads. Very easy and cheap way to ops check things as you
go.
Rick S.
40185
Wiring
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Flap position sensor |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | IO-540 Engine Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Lol....good catch on paying the Piper.
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
Message 26
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| Subject: | Flap position sensor |
Chris I didn't see the original post but if you're referring to the stick on
cable blocks that are used in conjunction with the cable ties to tidy up
your electrical wiring,
I found the only place to have them was the big auto barns, at least in
Brisbane anyway.
John 40315
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris , Susie
Darcy
Sent: Saturday, 8 July 2006 7:20 AM
Jim those stick on things that hold the wires ...what are they called as I
cant seem to find them out here in OZ
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2006 4:48 AM
Photos attached of my POS 12 mount. I used 2 pieces of .032 angle, one
screwed to the tunnel wall and one pop-riveted to the flap actuator. I
connected them with a piece of threated model aircraft pushrod with a brass
clevis on one end and a Z bend on the other.
You can also see the flap switch I installed for my Advanced Flight Systems
AOA Sport systems.
-Jim McGrew
40134
In a message dated 7/6/2006 9:42:21 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
rsipp@earthlink.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
I would like to hear from anyone who has mounted a Ray Allan flap position
sensor (POS 12) on the flap system to drive a Ray Allan LED indicator. A
picture or description of where and how you mounted it would be most
appreciated.
Thanks
Dick Sipp
40065 ========================= es Day
--> =================================================
-> =========================p; - List Contribution Web Site
=================================================
_____
_____
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Flap position sensor |
Be advised that you need to get versions that use industrial adhesive.
The kind that you get from a home store have a tendency to let go after
a while. Not something you want to have happen in an area of a lot of
moving parts.
Michael
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 5:39 PM
Chris I didn't see the original post but if you're referring to the
stick on cable blocks that are used in conjunction with the cable ties
to tidy up your electrical wiring,
I found the only place to have them was the big auto barns, at least in
Brisbane anyway.
John 40315
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris , Susie
Darcy
Sent: Saturday, 8 July 2006 7:20 AM
Jim those stick on things that hold the wires ...what are they called as
I cant seem to find them out here in OZ
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: JSMcGrew@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2006 4:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap position sensor
Photos attached of my POS 12 mount. I used 2 pieces of .032
angle, one screwed to the tunnel wall and one pop-riveted to the flap
actuator. I connected them with a piece of threated model aircraft
pushrod with a brass clevis on one end and a Z bend on the other.
You can also see the flap switch I installed for my Advanced
Flight Systems AOA Sport systems.
-Jim McGrew
40134
In a message dated 7/6/2006 9:42:21 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
rsipp@earthlink.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp"
<rsipp@earthlink.net>
I would like to hear from anyone who has mounted a Ray
Allan flap position
sensor (POS 12) on the flap system to drive a Ray Allan
LED indicator. A
picture or description of where and how you mounted it
would be most
appreciated.
Thanks
Dick Sipp
40065
=========================
es Day
-->
=========================
=========================
->
=========================
p; - List Contribution Web Site
=========================
=========================
________________________________
________________________________
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | IO-540 Engine Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Franz" <cfranz10121@chartermi.net>
Jim,
The intake tubes are swaged into the crankcase. There is a tool
that can re-swage the induction tubes, improving the retention, but an
application of proseal around the joint will help prevent induction leaks.
When I rebuilt my O-360 I found a similar condition on two of the four
tubes. My local Lycon shop fixed the problem for about twenty bucks. Carl
Franz N410FS (reserved), N215CF RV-6 flying
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim@CombsFive.Com
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 8:56 PM
--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
I have a used IO-540 engine and today I removed the intake / induction tubes
that run from the sides of the oil sump up to the cylinders.
Down at the oil sump there is a flexible hose that joins the metal tubes
together. After removing the tubes I noticed that three of the six stubs
coming out of the oil sump were loose and could be moved in and out about an
1/8 inch. I talked to a local EAA member and he said the tubes were
"rolled" in order to slightly expand them and hold them in place.
So the questions are:
(1) Do I need to get / borrow a tool to roll these again? (2) Can this be
done while the sump is attached?
(3) What about using a sealant (Fuel tank sealant comes to mind) to seal up
the tubes to the oil sump vs "rolling" them again?
Also, Where is a good place to order gaskets? I would like to replace the
valve cover gaskets while I am cleaning up the outside. Need new cylinder
intake gaskets as well.
I have ordered manuals for the engine from Lycoming but they are not here
yet. I need to get part numbers.
Thanks,
Jim Combs
N40192
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Engine Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
When I rebuilt my IO-540 I had several loose induction tubes. My IA
said to send it to Divco for repair. As I recall, I had to replace one
tube and get 3 tightened so they wouldn't rotate (and leak air). Cost,
including inspection, repair, part, and return shipping, was about $180.
Tim
Carl Franz wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Franz" <cfranz10121@chartermi.net>
>
> Jim,
>
> The intake tubes are swaged into the crankcase. There is a tool
> that can re-swage the induction tubes, improving the retention, but an
> application of proseal around the joint will help prevent induction leaks.
> When I rebuilt my O-360 I found a similar condition on two of the four
> tubes. My local Lycon shop fixed the problem for about twenty bucks. Carl
> Franz N410FS (reserved), N215CF RV-6 flying
>
> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim@CombsFive.Com
> Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 8:56 PM
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
>
> I have a used IO-540 engine and today I removed the intake / induction tubes
> that run from the sides of the oil sump up to the cylinders.
>
> Down at the oil sump there is a flexible hose that joins the metal tubes
> together. After removing the tubes I noticed that three of the six stubs
> coming out of the oil sump were loose and could be moved in and out about an
> 1/8 inch. I talked to a local EAA member and he said the tubes were
> "rolled" in order to slightly expand them and hold them in place.
>
> So the questions are:
>
> (1) Do I need to get / borrow a tool to roll these again? (2) Can this be
> done while the sump is attached?
> (3) What about using a sealant (Fuel tank sealant comes to mind) to seal up
> the tubes to the oil sump vs "rolling" them again?
>
> Also, Where is a good place to order gaskets? I would like to replace the
> valve cover gaskets while I am cleaning up the outside. Need new cylinder
> intake gaskets as well.
>
> I have ordered manuals for the engine from Lycoming but they are not here
> yet. I need to get part numbers.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Combs
> N40192
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Engine Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
I have had enough feedback to understand this is a fairly common problem on Lycoming
engines.
So I am sitting here thinking:
50% of these swagged, rolled, beaded interfaces have failed.
I can repeat the same procedure that has proven to perform in a very poor manner,
hoping to "fix" the problem.
What are the odds of the problem showing up again. pretty high.
What are the affects. One or more lean cylinders.
So I thought, why not go and talk to 3M or Loctite. I spent an hour on the phone
today with an applications engineer at Loctite. They have a 294, an anaerobic
material that is the consistancy of water. It will wick in between the parts
and bond them together. It has a 450 def F max working temperature and will
displace any oil. He suggested using a Primer N (7649) to prep the interfaces.
Even the primer will wick into the joint.
Clearly just rebeading the parts will not garantee a 100% fix.
I will talk to 3M on Monday and see what they recommend.
Given the availability of some really good adhesives, why not fix the problem once
and for all?
RTV, JB Weld, proseal are just surface treatments and may just make things worse
if they don't adhere to the surfaces.
In my mind this is a bad design with a process that has a really bad track record.
Today we may have the means to correct it once and for all.
Anyone tried this?
Jim Combs
N312F
40192
do not archive
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Flap position sensor |
We mounted ours in the tunnel near the flap torque tube. We attached a
bell crank/control horn fabricated from some light AL angle and held
onto the torque tube with a pipe clamp so no additional holes were
drilled in the torque tube. The horn was then linked via 1/4 scale
(large) RC aircraft push rod to the 1.2" throw Ray allen potentiometer.
The ray allen potentiometer was mounted on another peice of angle on the
side wall of the inside of the tunnel. You'll have to work the geometry
out to get the correct throw on the control horn mounted to the torque
tube. We got about 1/4-1/3" up the horn from the surface of the tube to
get the 1.2" of throw for full flap movement. There's some pics on the
website but they aren't very good. Hope this helps.
Jeremy
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm if you go about 3/4 down the
page, click on the picture of the tunnel. The sensor and brackets are
on the bottom of the pic (starboard side of airplane).
http://jharris.net/Aviation/Flap%20Position%20Sensors.JPG
Jeremy P. Harris
Ground Based Mid-Course Defense
WSOPS Engineering
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057
Office: 825B
Huntsville, AL
Desk (256) 464-4530
Cube: 1225
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
________________________________
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 5:20 PM
Jim those stick on things that hold the wires ...what are they called as
I cant seem to find them out here in OZ
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: JSMcGrew@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2006 4:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap position sensor
Photos attached of my POS 12 mount. I used 2 pieces of .032
angle, one screwed to the tunnel wall and one pop-riveted to the flap
actuator. I connected them with a piece of threated model aircraft
pushrod with a brass clevis on one end and a Z bend on the other.
You can also see the flap switch I installed for my Advanced
Flight Systems AOA Sport systems.
-Jim McGrew
40134
In a message dated 7/6/2006 9:42:21 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
rsipp@earthlink.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp"
<rsipp@earthlink.net>
I would like to hear from anyone who has mounted a Ray
Allan flap position
sensor (POS 12) on the flap system to drive a Ray Allan
LED indicator. A
picture or description of where and how you mounted it
would be most
appreciated.
Thanks
Dick Sipp
40065
=========================
es Day
-->
=========================
=========================
->
=========================
p; - List Contribution Web Site
=========================
=========================
________________________________
________________________________
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Flap position sensor |
I buy the cable tie mounting bases from Stein Air.
_http://www.steinair.com/cableties.htm_ (http://www.steinair.com/cableties.htm)
Jim
In a message dated 7/7/2006 3:23:45 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
VHMUM@bigpond.com writes:
Jim those stick on things that hold the wires ...what are they called as I
cant seem to find them out here in OZ
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2006 4:48 AM
Photos attached of my POS 12 mount. I used 2 pieces of .032 angle, one
screwed to the tunnel wall and one pop-riveted to the flap actuator. I connected
them with a piece of threated model aircraft pushrod with a brass clevis on
one end and a Z bend on the other.
You can also see the flap switch I installed for my Advanced Flight Systems
AOA Sport systems.
-Jim McGrew
40134
In a message dated 7/6/2006 9:42:21 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
rsipp@earthlink.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
I would like to hear from anyone who has mounted a Ray Allan flap position
sensor (POS 12) on the flap system to drive a Ray Allan LED indicator. A
picture or description of where and how you mounted it would be most
appreciated.
Thanks
Dick Sipp
40065 ========================= es Day
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Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Flap position sensor |
Outstanding Jim, thanks very much.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: JSMcGrew@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 2:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap position sensor
Photos attached of my POS 12 mount. I used 2 pieces of .032 angle, one
screwed to the tunnel wall and one pop-riveted to the flap actuator. I
connected them with a piece of threated model aircraft pushrod with a
brass clevis on one end and a Z bend on the other.
You can also see the flap switch I installed for my Advanced Flight
Systems AOA Sport systems.
-Jim McGrew
40134
In a message dated 7/6/2006 9:42:21 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
rsipp@earthlink.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp"
<rsipp@earthlink.net>
I would like to hear from anyone who has mounted a Ray Allan flap
position
sensor (POS 12) on the flap system to drive a Ray Allan LED
indicator. A
picture or description of where and how you mounted it would be most
appreciated.
Thanks
Dick Sipp
40065
=========================
es Day
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Message 34
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Jesse,
Congrats, not too many (if any other) repeat RV-10 offenders. Just out
of curiosity, what forced the 40 hours vs 25 hour flyoff?
I hope to be in your shoes soon.
Have fun,
Marcus
_____
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 1:28 AM
It flies. Once around the pattern about 5 minutes before dark. Will try to
post more details when we have them. We should have both N256H and N415EC
at Oshkosh, Lord willing. See ya'll there.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
--
7/4/2006
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
7/4/2006
--
7/4/2006
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: New (sort of) Builder and Wing Build Questions |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>
Thanks everyone for the replies. It's amazing how much one can swing back and forth
on some of these options - hopefully, it's not just me! ;)
It looks like i'll be ordering the conduit from Van's. as far as i can see, it
looks like there is plenty of room to drill the conduit holes even after the ribs
are riveted.
I am going to have to think some more on the lights, but it sounds like i have
time.
Thanks again for the insights!
Jae
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=45641#45641
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