Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:10 AM - Re: Re: Relative Value for Complete RV-10's? (Wayne Edgerton)
2. 07:56 AM - Re: RV-10 vs RV-9 or 7 or 6 build time (William DeLacey)
3. 11:11 AM - Re: Wings/Duckworks lights. (Wentz, Don)
4. 02:37 PM - Duckworks lights. (Fred Williams, M.D.)
5. 02:51 PM - Re: Wings/Duckworks lights. (lyleap)
6. 03:55 PM - Re: IO-540 Engine Question (Carl Franz)
7. 06:54 PM - Re: Tony's Overhead Console Vent Inlet (John W. Cox)
8. 08:01 PM - Re: Quick Build (QB) Wings (David Maib)
9. 10:22 PM - Gear Mount install (Chris Johnston)
10. 10:54 PM - Re: Gear Mount install (McGANN, Ron)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: RE: Relative Value for Complete RV-10's? |
I checked at one point and had a quote at $190K.
Wayne Edgerton #403336
do not archive
Message 2
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Subject: | RV-10 vs RV-9 or 7 or 6 build time |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "William DeLacey" <whd721@msn.com>
Thanks to all who replied. I thought that the times would be close to the
same as most tasks to complete are similar. However, the biggest variable
appears to be the skill of the builder. well duh!
Message 3
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Subject: | Wings/Duckworks lights. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com>
Fred,
Why don't you contact the nice folks at Duckworks and see if they can
help?
BTW, that would be me!
Don 'The Duck' Wentz
duckworks@comcast.net
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred
Williams, M.D.
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2006 3:47 PM
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Fred Williams, M.D."
--> <drfred@cox-internet.com>
I'm working on the slo-build wings. Getting close to section 17 and the
outboard leading edge. I helped a friend install his Duckworks lights
in his RV 6 that he just about has complete. So far, I think I will go
just with the lighting system 6 as is recommended by Vans and place the
landing lights in the wingtips. I would, however, like to cheat a
little and install the nutplates and extra wires in the left wing so
that if I decide to add a duckworks landing light at a later date, most
of the hard work will be done. Could someone who has installed the
duckworks light fax me a copy of the template for the nutplate
locations? I would be much abliged.
Fax; 903 784 3200
See you'all at Oshgosh. Wed thru Sat.
Thanks
Fred Williams
slo-building in Texas
40515
drfred@cox-internet.com
Message 4
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Subject: | Duckworks lights. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred@cox-internet.com>
Oops!
Put in the wrong fax number
Correct one is : 903 784 7405
Thanks: Fred Williams
I'm working on the slo-build wings. Getting close to section 17 and the
outboard leading edge. I helped a friend install his Duckworks lights
in his RV 6 that he just about has complete. So far, I think I will go
just with the lighting system 6 as is recommended by Vans and place the
landing lights in the wingtips. I would, however, like to cheat a
little and install the nutplates and extra wires in the left wing so
that if I decide to add a duckworks landing light at a later date, most
of the hard work will be done. Could someone who has installed the
duckworks light fax me a copy of the template for the nutplate
locations? I would be much abliged.
Fax; 903 784 3200
See you'all at Oshgosh. Wed thru Sat.
Thanks
Fred Williams slo-building in Texas
40515
drfred@cox-internet.com
Message 5
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Subject: | Wings/Duckworks lights. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "lyleap" <lyleap@comcast.net>
Don,
Would you FAX a copy of the nutplate location template to Fred, please?
Lyle Peterson
lyleap@comcast.net
651-653-2063
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wentz, Don
> Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 1:07 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wings/Duckworks lights.
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com>
>
> Fred,
> Why don't you contact the nice folks at Duckworks and see if they can
> help?
>
> BTW, that would be me!
> Don 'The Duck' Wentz
> duckworks@comcast.net
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred
> Williams, M.D.
> Sent: Friday, July 14, 2006 3:47 PM
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Fred Williams, M.D."
> --> <drfred@cox-internet.com>
>
> I'm working on the slo-build wings. Getting close to section 17 and the
> outboard leading edge. I helped a friend install his Duckworks lights
> in his RV 6 that he just about has complete. So far, I think I will go
> just with the lighting system 6 as is recommended by Vans and place the
> landing lights in the wingtips. I would, however, like to cheat a
> little and install the nutplates and extra wires in the left wing so
> that if I decide to add a duckworks landing light at a later date, most
> of the hard work will be done. Could someone who has installed the
> duckworks light fax me a copy of the template for the nutplate
> locations? I would be much abliged.
>
> Fax; 903 784 3200
>
> See you'all at Oshgosh. Wed thru Sat.
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Fred Williams
> slo-building in Texas
> 40515
> drfred@cox-internet.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | IO-540 Engine Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Franz" <cfranz10121@chartermi.net>
Jim,
The rolling tool is used to swage the tubes in place. Basically
a mandrel with three rollers that are expanded in the tube while
twisting the tool to enlarge the intake tube enough to be retained by
the crank case groove surrounding the tube. So, yes, you need to borrow
the tool in order to expand the stubs where they exit the case.
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Franz
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 7:51 PM
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Carl Franz"
--> <cfranz10121@chartermi.net>
Jim,
The intake tubes are swaged into the crankcase. There is a tool
that can re-swage the induction tubes, improving the retention, but an
application of proseal around the joint will help prevent induction
leaks. When I rebuilt my O-360 I found a similar condition on two of the
four tubes. My local Lycon shop fixed the problem for about twenty
bucks. Carl Franz N410FS (reserved), N215CF RV-6 flying
-----Original Message----- [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]
On Behalf Of jim@CombsFive.Com
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 8:56 PM
--> RV10-List message posted by: <jim@combsfive.com>
I have a used IO-540 engine and today I removed the intake / induction
tubes that run from the sides of the oil sump up to the cylinders.
Down at the oil sump there is a flexible hose that joins the metal tubes
together. After removing the tubes I noticed that three of the six
stubs coming out of the oil sump were loose and could be moved in and
out about an 1/8 inch. I talked to a local EAA member and he said the
tubes were "rolled" in order to slightly expand them and hold them in
place.
The sealant around the tubes is the second level of sealing,
kind of the suspenders and belt routine, if you're not sure you can keep
your pants up.
The parts (gaskets etc.) you'd get from your local engine repair
facility. I get a lot of parts from AERO in the Chicago area
(800-910-1281)
Sorry for the delay, I've been busy working on the RV-10 and not keeping
up with the e-mail. Carl
So the questions are:
(1) Do I need to get / borrow a tool to roll these again? (2) Can this
be done while the sump is attached?
(3) What about using a sealant (Fuel tank sealant comes to mind) to seal
up the tubes to the oil sump vs "rolling" them again?
Also, Where is a good place to order gaskets? I would like to replace
the valve cover gaskets while I am cleaning up the outside. Need new
cylinder intake gaskets as well.
I have ordered manuals for the engine from Lycoming but they are not
here yet. I need to get part numbers.
Thanks,
Jim Combs
N40192
Message 7
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Subject: | Tony's Overhead Console Vent Inlet |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
On a NON-Vans modified Empennage to Vertical/Horizontal fairing. If
necessary, will have a DER determine move to the vertical with necessary
reinforcement and running of airflow through a composite 180 degree duct
down through the lightening hole and then back forward onto the aft
baggage bulkhead for the conditioning/control plenum.
Fairings are getting lots of attention due to drag and QOW on the
composite parts.
John
40600
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of KiloPapa
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2006 10:18 PM
--> RV10-List message posted by: "KiloPapa" <kilopapa@antelecom.net>
John,
What area on the plane are you looking at for the NACA duct?
Kevin
40494
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Quick Build (QB) Wings |
Did you call and request this from Van's, or did they just send it to
you?
David Maib
40559
do not archive
On Jul 14, 2006, at 6:51 AM, Wayne Edgerton wrote:
I just received from Van's a quick build type flow chart, I don't
have it here at home, it's at the hangar. I didn't study it in detail
but I believe with my quick perusal that it showed what you have to
do and what's already been done. If you haven't received one I would
suggest you give Van's a call.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
Message 9
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Subject: | Gear Mount install |
hey all -
made tons of progress on the fuse this weekend, but i left off at the
temp install of the gear mount (where you mark and drill the holes for
the floor rib. i cursed a bit, and wiggled, pushed, tapped, and
otherwise made my best effort to cajole the things into place, but they
are fighting me... anyone else have any trouble with this part? i have
the left one in, but i don't know how i'll get it back out - the bolts
were really tight to get in... the right one won't line up at all.
anyone have to apply a bit of judicious buffing or clearancing of things
in the neighborhood? harrumph.
cj
#40410
fuse
Message 10
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Subject: | Gear Mount install |
Chris,
Fear not - you are not alone.
I too had to work pretty hard to get the gear mounts installed. First
thing to check is that you have no interference with the forward gear
mount brace against the outboard forward seat rail support. I needed to
grind a bit off (the seat support) for clearance. I also found that I
needed to sacrifice a few AN3-14 or -15 bolts to make alignment pins.
Once the holes were aligned, the bolts went in with a bit of Boelube. I
think I needed to run the drill through a few holes that were out by a
few thou'.
cheers,
Ron
#187
fuse/finishing
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Sent: Monday, 17 July 2006 2:48 PM
hey all -
made tons of progress on the fuse this weekend, but i left off at the
temp install of the gear mount (where you mark and drill the holes for
the floor rib. i cursed a bit, and wiggled, pushed, tapped, and
otherwise made my best effort to cajole the things into place, but they
are fighting me... anyone else have any trouble with this part? i have
the left one in, but i don't know how i'll get it back out - the bolts
were really tight to get in... the right one won't line up at all.
anyone have to apply a bit of judicious buffing or clearancing of things
in the neighborhood? harrumph.
cj
#40410
fuse
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